US1244891A - Means for applying stitch-receiving ribs to innersoles. - Google Patents

Means for applying stitch-receiving ribs to innersoles. Download PDF

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US1244891A
US1244891A US8908316A US8908316A US1244891A US 1244891 A US1244891 A US 1244891A US 8908316 A US8908316 A US 8908316A US 8908316 A US8908316 A US 8908316A US 1244891 A US1244891 A US 1244891A
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rib
strip
channel
innersole
folding
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US8908316A
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Jesse V Poole
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LLOYD L LIVINGSTON
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LLOYD L LIVINGSTON
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding

Definitions

  • the object of the present invention is to enable innersoles adapted for the making of shoes by a Goodyear process to be produced rapidly and at low cost and at the same time in a manner such as to be strong and durable.
  • the innersole used in Goodyear shoemaking has a rib projecting on one face to take the stitches of the inseam, that is, the seam which attaches the edges of the upper and the welt to the innersole.
  • Innersoles of this general type have been produced in many diverse forms, in one of which the body of the innersole and the rib are separate pieces secured together; the body being a flat piece of leather, leatherboard or a composite structure of textile fabric and leather or leatherboard or other material, and the ribv being a strip folded longitudinally on or near 1ts center line to form a ridge, and having its edge portions bent outwardly and laid flat against the body, being stitched to the body at one or both sides of the folded central part, which forms the rib.
  • the strip forming the rib is also cemented or otherwise adhesively secured to the face of the body, It is with an innersole of this character that my present invention is concerned, and my object is to provide a means for forming a flat strip into a rib of the described formation and applying it to the innersole body at one and the same time.
  • Such means comprises a machine, or a set of mechanical instrumentalities, constructed, arranged and organized so as to bend a fiat strip into the, form of a rib with outstanding flanges, apply such rib progressively to the innersole body, and secure it thereto.
  • a body and a fiat strip of textile fabric or other material suitable for forming the rib are fed together into the machine, and in the act of so feeding the strip it is folded or bent into the shape required for the rib as it approaches the innersole body.
  • stitches are passed through the ribfo'rming strip at one or both sides of the part which forms the rib. This operation is carried on progressively throughout the entire part of the sole on which the rib is provided, commencing at the beginning point of the rib and continuing along the sole near one edge thereof toward the toe and back near the opposite edge of the sole to the point at which the rib ends, the strip being bent in the progress of thus applying it so as to follow approximately the outline of the sole.
  • the idea intended to be emphasized at this point is that the folding of the rib, feeding it to the innersole body, feeding the innersole body in parallel with the strip, and-placing the stitches near the point at which the strip comes into contact with the sole, constitute a continuing operation commencing at the beginning point of the .rib and continuing progressively throughout the length of the latter to its ending point:
  • the strip from which the rib is formed may be a band or-tape of indefinite length which is severed after being applied to the sole as above described, at the point where the rib so applied ends.
  • the machine or mechanism includes the combination with a sewing machine of means for feeding an innersole body and means for folding a'tape and guiding it to ward the innersole body.
  • the portion of the machine which constitutes the sewing machine proper and includes the means for forming and setting stitches and for feeding the innersole, may be any standard sewing machine, and I have used a type of commercial machine. The details of the sewing machine, therefore, I do not claim as my invention and have not illustrated thenr; having only shown in a conventional way so much of a standard commercial machine as is necessary to illustrate the combination in which the invention consists.
  • Figure l is a front elevation of that part of a sewing machine with which my invention is concerned, showing also in elevation a folding device which is a part of the invention.
  • Fig. 2 is a plan view of one part of the folding device, the coniplemental part thereof being removed.
  • Fig. 3 is an under plan view of that part called the shaper.
  • Fig. 4 is a longitudinal central sectlon of of the folding apparatus which may be that part of the folding device which is shown inFig. 2.
  • FIG. 5 is a cross section on line 5-5 of Fig. 2.
  • Said body is a flat piece of any suitable innersole stock, or' it may be a laminated structure made of a number of layers, being cut to the outline required for a sole of this character.
  • .rib 13 is made of a strip or tape of any suitable material, which may be a textile fabric, notably cotton duck, although I am not restricted to any particular material.
  • the part of the strip which may be called the rib proper is the central part, being formed by doubling the strip at or near its longitudinal center line in what may be called a central fold, and bending out the edge portions oppositely from one another on longitudinal folding lines, the location of which determines the height of the rib.
  • the parts of the strip thus turned out form base flanges which are shown at 14 in the drawings, and lie flat against one surface of the innersole body. In being placed on the body the rib is guided so as to follow the outline of the sole at a distance back from the edge thereof as usual in articles of this sort, and as shown in Fig. 9. Permanent attachment is made by two seams 15, 16 which pass through the flangesof the rib and through the innersole body near the rib proper.
  • seams may be omitted and an adhesive of anyv desired sort may be employed to unite the rib to the body, or adhesive may be combined with seams for this purpose.
  • awls being in advance of the needles, that is set over toward the side from which the work advances.
  • any of the mechanisms usual in shoe sewing machines, or any other suitable means may be employed for passing awls into the innersole body to engage the same and at the same time puncture it to make passages for the needles, moving the awls toward the location of the needles to advance the work, withdraw the awls, and return them to the first position; and that the usual or any suitable mechanisms are provided for passing the needles through the holes made bythe awls and for cooperating with the needles to form stitches in a seam.
  • a table is represented at 19 and in Fig. 1 a presser foot is shown at 20.
  • a folder 21 which has a lug 22 projecting under the table and receiving attaching means such as screws 23.
  • the upper surface of the folder, or at least a part 24- thereof constitutes a work support, or a part of a work support toward which the innersole body is pressed by the presser foot- 20, the
  • Said work supporting surface 24 is flush with the top surface of the table 19, as appears from Fig. 7, and on the latter is mounts ed a gage or guide 19!, the edge of which serves as a gage for the innersole body.
  • the forward part of the folder is inclined downwardly away from the plane of the supporting surface 24, and over such inclined portion is placed a plate 25 firmly secured thereto as by screws 26 (Fig. 8) passingthrough holes 27 in the plate and into tapped sockets 28 in the body of the folder.
  • a rib 29 J projects from the under side of the cover plate 25 into the channel of the folder and cooperates with the walls of said channel in forming the into the stitch-receiving the rear part of the folder the bottom of the channedrises between the sides and the middle part to form rounded ledges 31 which gradually merge into shoulders 32 sharply defining a narrow groove 33 which is the outlet end of the folding channel.
  • the folding rib 29 occupies the central part of this channel which is just enough wider and deeperto admit that part of the strip which forms the rib proper 13. It will be readily seen that the rib 29 forms the central fold 13 of the rib strip and that the ledges or shoulders 31, 32 indent the strip between its edges and the central fold to form the intermediate bends from which the base flanges 14 spring.
  • the cover plate 25 terminates approximately at the angle between the supporting surface 24 and the forward part of the folder, such angle being indicated at 34.
  • the completely folded rib strip issues with its base flanges lying against the supporting surface 24 and exposed so that the body of the innersole may be laid directly upon them.
  • the invention comprises essentially the suitable guiding means for. conducting the rib and the innersole body into contact, such guiding means comprising the folder with its supporting portion 24 and the gage 19
  • the apparatus also includes the feeding and stitch forming means, although I do not intend the invention to be limited in all its phases to these last named features.
  • An apparatus for folding a strip for an innersole having an upstanding rib comprising a folding device having a channel, and a folding rib extending longitudinally of said channel, said folding device having bending elements at each side of said channel, said rib and bending elements being constructed and arranged to form a longitudinal central fold in a strip or tape and outwardly bent flanges, and the folding device having a surface to support such flanges and an innersole body laid against the flanges, and a presser arranged to exert force toward said supporting surface against such body.
  • An apparatus for folding a strip for innersoles of the character described comprising a folding device having a channel through which a strip or tape may be drawn longitudinally, a cover secured to said device overlying said channel and having a longitudinally arranged rib projecting into said channel, bending elements at each side of the channel for indenting the strip at each side of the folding rib.
  • a machine for forming and applying a stitch-receiving rib to an innersole body comprising a folder having a channel through which a strip or tape may be caused to travel, said channel being gradually narrowed toward the end from which the strip emerges, and a fold forming rib extending into the central part of said channel to cooperate with the walls thereof in forming a central fold in the strip and outwardly bent flanges, and means constructed and arranged to press the flanges of the folded strip and an innersole body placed thereon toward one another.
  • a machine for forming and applying a stitch-receiving rib to an innersole body comprising a folder having a channel through which a strip or tape may be caused to travel, said channel being gradually nar-' nel having-ledges which merge gradually into distinct shoulders at each side which form the boundaries. of the narrow end of the channel, and a fold-maintaining element projecting between said ledges toward the bottom of the channel but out of contact therewith.
  • a folding'means comprising. a folder having a channel wide at one end and narrow at the other end, the bottom of'the channel having ledges which merge gradually into distinct shoulders at each side which form the boundaries of the narrow end of the channel, a cover overlying said channel to retain the material being folded therein, and a rib projecting from said cover between said ledges toward the bottom of the channel but out of contact therewith.
  • a folding means comprising a folder having a channel wide at one end and narrow at the other end, the bottom of the channel having ledges which merge gradually into distinct shoulders at each side which form the boundaries of the narrow end of element projecting between said ledges toward the bottom of the channel but out of contact therewith, the folder having external supporting surfaces at each side of the narrow channel end to support the edge portions of a folder strip emerging from said channel.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Folding Of Thin Sheet-Like Materials, Special Discharging Devices, And Others (AREA)

Description

. J. V.'PO0L-E. MEANS FOR APPLYING STITCH RECEIVING RIBS T0 INNERSOLESP APPLICATION' FILED APR. 5. 19 16.
1,244,89L Patented Oct. 30,1917.
4: I 40 v Z\ I ma ii I. v. POOL-E.- MEANS FOR APPLYING STITCH RECEIVING RIBS T0 INNER SOLE S.
APPLICATION FILED APR. 5. I9'I6.
1,244,891., Patented Oct.30,1917.
31'; INVI-iNTII R Isa JESSE Puuu;
ran
JESSE V. POOLE, 0F APINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO LLOYD L. LIVINGSTGN, OF ABINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS.
Specification of Letters Patent.
Patented Oct. so, 1917.
Application filed April 5, 1916. Serial No. 89,083.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, J ESSE V. POOLE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Abington, in the county of Plymouth and State of Massachusetts, have invented new and useful Improvements in Means for Applying Stitch-Receiving Ribs to Innersoles, of which the following is a specification.
The object of the present invention is to enable innersoles adapted for the making of shoes by a Goodyear process to be produced rapidly and at low cost and at the same time in a manner such as to be strong and durable. Before further describing my present invention I will explain that the innersole used in Goodyear shoemaking has a rib projecting on one face to take the stitches of the inseam, that is, the seam which attaches the edges of the upper and the welt to the innersole. Innersoles of this general type have been produced in many diverse forms, in one of which the body of the innersole and the rib are separate pieces secured together; the body being a flat piece of leather, leatherboard or a composite structure of textile fabric and leather or leatherboard or other material, and the ribv being a strip folded longitudinally on or near 1ts center line to form a ridge, and having its edge portions bent outwardly and laid flat against the body, being stitched to the body at one or both sides of the folded central part, which forms the rib. In someinstances the strip forming the rib is also cemented or otherwise adhesively secured to the face of the body, It is with an innersole of this character that my present invention is concerned, and my object is to provide a means for forming a flat strip into a rib of the described formation and applying it to the innersole body at one and the same time. Such means comprises a machine, or a set of mechanical instrumentalities, constructed, arranged and organized so as to bend a fiat strip into the, form of a rib with outstanding flanges, apply such rib progressively to the innersole body, and secure it thereto.
In making the complete innersole, a body and a fiat strip of textile fabric or other material suitable for forming the rib are fed together into the machine, and in the act of so feeding the strip it is folded or bent into the shape required for the rib as it approaches the innersole body. After being brought into contact with the said body stitches are passed through the ribfo'rming strip at one or both sides of the part which forms the rib. This operation is carried on progressively throughout the entire part of the sole on which the rib is provided, commencing at the beginning point of the rib and continuing along the sole near one edge thereof toward the toe and back near the opposite edge of the sole to the point at which the rib ends, the strip being bent in the progress of thus applying it so as to follow approximately the outline of the sole. The idea intended to be emphasized at this point is that the folding of the rib, feeding it to the innersole body, feeding the innersole body in parallel with the strip, and-placing the stitches near the point at which the strip comes into contact with the sole, constitute a continuing operation commencing at the beginning point of the .rib and continuing progressively throughout the length of the latter to its ending point: The strip from which the rib is formed may be a band or-tape of indefinite length which is severed after being applied to the sole as above described, at the point where the rib so applied ends.
The machine or mechanism includes the combination with a sewing machine of means for feeding an innersole body and means for folding a'tape and guiding it to ward the innersole body. The portion of the machine which constitutes the sewing machine proper and includes the means for forming and setting stitches and for feeding the innersole, may be any standard sewing machine, and I have used a type of commercial machine. The details of the sewing machine, therefore, I do not claim as my invention and have not illustrated thenr; having only shown in a conventional way so much of a standard commercial machine as is necessary to illustrate the combination in which the invention consists. In the. drawings, 7
Figure l is a front elevation of that part of a sewing machine with which my invention is concerned, showing also in elevation a folding device which is a part of the invention.
Fig. 2 is a plan view of one part of the folding device, the coniplemental part thereof being removed.
Fig. 3 is an under plan view of that part called the shaper.
Fig. 4 is a longitudinal central sectlon of of the folding apparatus which may be that part of the folding device which is shown inFig. 2.
-Fig. 5 is a cross section on line 5-5 of Fig. 2.
" the ultimate object of the present invention,
comprises a body 12 and a rib 13. Said body is a flat piece of any suitable innersole stock, or' it may be a laminated structure made of a number of layers, being cut to the outline required for a sole of this character. The
.rib 13is made of a strip or tape of any suitable material, which may be a textile fabric, notably cotton duck, although I am not restricted to any particular material. The part of the strip which may be called the rib proper is the central part, being formed by doubling the strip at or near its longitudinal center line in what may be called a central fold, and bending out the edge portions oppositely from one another on longitudinal folding lines, the location of which determines the height of the rib. The parts of the strip thus turned out form base flanges which are shown at 14 in the drawings, and lie flat against one surface of the innersole body. In being placed on the body the rib is guided so as to follow the outline of the sole at a distance back from the edge thereof as usual in articles of this sort, and as shown in Fig. 9. Permanent attachment is made by two seams 15, 16 which pass through the flangesof the rib and through the innersole body near the rib proper.
Either or both of these seams may be omitted and an adhesive of anyv desired sort may be employed to unite the rib to the body, or adhesive may be combined with seams for this purpose.
The apparatus which I have used. in producing innersoles of the sort above described,
and the principles 0f which I here claim as a part of my invention, comprises a sewing machine having combined therewith an attachment constructed and adapted to fold a F as flat tape or strip into the rib above described and to guide it into contact with one face of an innersole. The particular sewing machine is neither my invention nor novel,
fed and out of alinement with one another,
the awls being in advance of the needles, that is set over toward the side from which the work advances. It is to be understood that any of the mechanisms usual in shoe sewing machines, or any other suitable means, may be employed for passing awls into the innersole body to engage the same and at the same time puncture it to make passages for the needles, moving the awls toward the location of the needles to advance the work, withdraw the awls, and return them to the first position; and that the usual or any suitable mechanisms are provided for passing the needles through the holes made bythe awls and for cooperating with the needles to form stitches in a seam. In Fig. 7 a table is represented at 19 and in Fig. 1 a presser foot is shown at 20.
To the table is fastened a folder 21 which has a lug 22 projecting under the table and receiving attaching means such as screws 23. The upper surface of the folder, or at least a part 24- thereof (see Figs. 2 and 4:) constitutes a work support, or a part of a work support toward which the innersole body is pressed by the presser foot- 20, the
latter being operated in the usual manner or otherwise to permit feeding of the work. Said work supporting surface 24 is flush with the top surface of the table 19, as appears from Fig. 7, and on the latter is mounts ed a gage or guide 19!, the edge of which serves as a gage for the innersole body. The forward part of the folder is inclined downwardly away from the plane of the supporting surface 24, and over such inclined portion is placed a plate 25 firmly secured thereto as by screws 26 (Fig. 8) passingthrough holes 27 in the plate and into tapped sockets 28 in the body of the folder. A rib 29 J projects from the under side of the cover plate 25 into the channel of the folder and cooperates with the walls of said channel in forming the into the stitch-receiving the rear part of the folder the bottom of the channedrises between the sides and the middle part to form rounded ledges 31 which gradually merge into shoulders 32 sharply defining a narrow groove 33 which is the outlet end of the folding channel. The folding rib 29 occupies the central part of this channel which is just enough wider and deeperto admit that part of the strip which forms the rib proper 13. It will be readily seen that the rib 29 forms the central fold 13 of the rib strip and that the ledges or shoulders 31, 32 indent the strip between its edges and the central fold to form the intermediate bends from which the base flanges 14 spring. The cover plate 25 terminates approximately at the angle between the supporting surface 24 and the forward part of the folder, such angle being indicated at 34. Thus the completely folded rib strip issues with its base flanges lying against the supporting surface 24 and exposed so that the body of the innersole may be laid directly upon them. The
supporting portion of the folder is cut away at 35 on both sides of the termination of the groove 33 to give room for the entrance and feeding play of the awls. The needles operate just in rear of the rear end of the folder. Thus it will be seen that just as the rib strip is folded into the form of a rib, it is laid into contact with the innersole body, and that immediately thereafter both said body and means for folding a flat strip into a rib and the rib are penetrated by the awls and propelled through a step of the feed, and that then threads are passed through the holes made by the awls and 'formed into stitches. These steps take place as part of a continuing operation which is carried out progressively throughout the entire length of the rib strip and of'that part of the innersole body to which the strip is applied. During the operation of attaching the rib to the body, the step of stitching the rib to' the body, the step of laying the rib against the body, the step of feeding the rib and body simultaneously and the step of folding an unfolded stretch of the rib strip into rib form,- are constantly going forward. The process is evidently essentially the same and comprises the same steps when one or the other ofthe seams is omitted. In such case only one of the needles and one of the awls are necessary. In cases where both seams are omitted and adhesive is depended upon to secure the rib to the body, the steps of folding, feeding, and applying the rib strip against the body are present; and in addition there may be the further step of applying adhesive, or of softening a previously applied and dried adhesive prior to, or after, the lay.-v
ing of the rib against the innersole body.
The invention comprises essentially the suitable guiding means for. conducting the rib and the innersole body into contact, such guiding means comprising the folder with its supporting portion 24 and the gage 19 The apparatus also includes the feeding and stitch forming means, although I do not intend the invention to be limited in all its phases to these last named features.
What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:
1. An apparatus for folding a strip for an innersole having an upstanding rib comprising a folding device having a channel, and a folding rib extending longitudinally of said channel, said folding device having bending elements at each side of said channel, said rib and bending elements being constructed and arranged to form a longitudinal central fold in a strip or tape and outwardly bent flanges, and the folding device having a surface to support such flanges and an innersole body laid against the flanges, and a presser arranged to exert force toward said supporting surface against such body.
2. An apparatus for folding a strip for innersoles of the character described comprising a folding device having a channel through which a strip or tape may be drawn longitudinally, a cover secured to said device overlying said channel and having a longitudinally arranged rib projecting into said channel, bending elements at each side of the channel for indenting the strip at each side of the folding rib.
3. A machine for forming and applying a stitch-receiving rib to an innersole body, comprising a folder having a channel through which a strip or tape may be caused to travel, said channel being gradually narrowed toward the end from which the strip emerges, and a fold forming rib extending into the central part of said channel to cooperate with the walls thereof in forming a central fold in the strip and outwardly bent flanges, and means constructed and arranged to press the flanges of the folded strip and an innersole body placed thereon toward one another.
4. A machine for forming and applying a stitch-receiving rib to an innersole body, comprising a folder having a channel through which a strip or tape may be caused to travel, said channel being gradually nar-' nel having-ledges which merge gradually into distinct shoulders at each side which form the boundaries. of the narrow end of the channel, and a fold-maintaining element projecting between said ledges toward the bottom of the channel but out of contact therewith.
6. A folding'means comprising. a folder having a channel wide at one end and narrow at the other end, the bottom of'the channel having ledges which merge gradually into distinct shoulders at each side which form the boundaries of the narrow end of the channel, a cover overlying said channel to retain the material being folded therein, and a rib projecting from said cover between said ledges toward the bottom of the channel but out of contact therewith.
. the channel, and a fold-maintaining 7. A folding means comprising a folder having a channel wide at one end and narrow at the other end, the bottom of the channel having ledges which merge gradually into distinct shoulders at each side which form the boundaries of the narrow end of element projecting between said ledges toward the bottom of the channel but out of contact therewith, the folder having external supporting surfaces at each side of the narrow channel end to support the edge portions of a folder strip emerging from said channel. In testimony whereof I have aflixed my signature.
'. JESSE v. POOLE.
US8908316A 1916-04-05 1916-04-05 Means for applying stitch-receiving ribs to innersoles. Expired - Lifetime US1244891A (en)

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US8908316A US1244891A (en) 1916-04-05 1916-04-05 Means for applying stitch-receiving ribs to innersoles.
US186200D US1281831A (en) 1916-04-05 1917-08-14 Method of forming and applying the stitch-receiving ribs of innersoles.

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