US1222012A

US1222012A - Garment-balancing device.

Info

Publication number: US1222012A
Application number: US62901611A
Authority: US
Inventors: Augustus Meas
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1911-05-23
Filing date: 1911-05-23
Publication date: 1917-04-10
Anticipated expiration: 1934-04-10

Description

A. MEAS. GARMENT BALANCING DEVICE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 23. 19H.

lilllliilllls I'M." Ink" :1. F i

A. MEAS.

GARMENT BALANCING DEVICE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 23. l9ll.

1 ,2Q2,01 2., Patented Apr. 10, 1917.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WNTTET) PATENT @FFTQTQ.

AUGUSTUS MEAS, OE NIAGARA FALLS, NEW YRIL GARMENT-BALANCING nnvrcn.

Application filed May 23, 1911.

To all whom 2'23 may concern Be it known that l, AUcUs'rUs MnAs, a citizen of the United States, residing at Niagara Falls, in the county of Niagara and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Garment-Balancing Devices, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a device for de tel-mining the element or shape of a body within the size measurements of the same, thus supplementing these measurements and rendering it possible to determine exactly the true construction lines in a garment draft or the flat surface required to cover the variations in the inclination or attitude of the body and correctly balance the garment on the body.

Garment drafting is essentially a flat sur-' face proposition and it is therefore necessary to know beforehand the inclination and attitude of a body, in addition to the size measurements, in order toproduce the draft correctly without any speculative deduction.

It is the purpose of this invention to pro vide a device which permits of deducing beforehand the inclination and attitude of the body exactly and expeditiously and thus enable a tailor by using these deductions in connection with the size measurements to draft and produce a garment which will hang on the body for which it is intended in absolutely perfect balance and with proper distribution of the cloth, without necessitating trying the partially made garment on the body for determining any inaccuracies before completing the same.

In the accompanying drawings consisting of 2 sheets: Figure 1 is a front elevation of the garment balancing device constructed in accordance with my invention. Fig. 2 is a side elevation thereof. Fig. 3 is a rear elevation thereof. Figs. tand 5 are detached views of one of the front and'rear quarters of the balancing device. Fig. 6 is a horizontal section in line 66, Fig. 1. Fig. 7 is a vertical section, on an enlarged scale, taken in line 7-7, Fig. 1-, and showing one form of sliding connection between the upper and lower sections ofa quarter of the balancing device. 1

Similar numerals of reference indicate corresponding parts throughout the several views.

In its general organization this garment balancing device comprises a body having Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr. it), 1911?.

Serial No. 629,016.

four quarters or main sections two of which are adapted to be arr: nged horizontally side by side on the front part of the body and the other two horizontally side by side on the rear partof the body. Each front quarter comprises an upper section 1 and a lower section 2 arranged below one of the upper front sections. Each of the rear quarters comprises an upper rear section 3, and a lower rear section 4 arranged below the companion upper section. The body sections of the measuring device are, however, constructed of pliable non-elastic material.

Each upper and lower section of a quarter are connected by horizontally slidablc and reversely movable joints which permit these sections to be slid horizontally one relatively to the other for obtaining the balance of the garment which is to be drafted. Various means may be employed for thus enabling the upper and lower companion sections to slide one relatively to the other. The means, however, which are shown in the drawings are suitable and comprise ahorizontal bead or cord 5 arranged horizontally at the upper edge of each lower section, and a plurality of clasps or clips 6 arranged in a horizontal row at the lower edge of the companion upper section and embracing the head of the latter. By this means the upper and lower sections of each quarter are reliably connected so that they are held against vertical displacement relatively to each other while permitting these sections to be slid horizontally one with relation to the other.

These body sections are suspended from the shoulders of the body of the person to be measured by connecting each upper front section with the companion upper rear section, on the same side of the body of the person to be measured. This connection between each upper front section and its companion upper rear section is preferably effected by pivotal means 7 which connect these parts so as to permit them to swing horizontally on the body of the person to be measured independently of each other for shifting these parts and obtaining a balance of the garment in a manner which will. be hereinafter described.

These pivotal connections 7 are preferably located on the shoulders of the body of the person to be measured at the opposite sides of the neck and at places commonly known in the tailors art as shoulder points. These pivot members are connect .The shoulder pivot members? and the parts associated therewith are further held in a definlte position and against lateral (11S- placement on the shoulders of the body of the person to be measured by means which are constructed to engage with the collar of the person. being measured, the means for this purpose which are shown in the drawings being suitable and preferred and consisting of clasps 10 arranged on the outer ends of the neck strap sections and adapted to engage with the lower edge of the persons collar adjacent tothe shoulder points.

The inner edges of both lower front sections 2 are preferably vertical and the same are detachably connected, the means for this purpose preferably consisting of spring clasps or buttons 11 such as those commonly used on gloves. Although the number of such fastenings is immaterial it is prefer- V able to employ three of them which are arranged in a vertical row, one being arranged near the upper ends of the lower front sections another being arranged at the lower ends of these sections and the third at or near the waist line of the body to be measured.

The opposing inner edges of the lower rear sections l are also preferably arranged vertically and detachably connected with each other preferably by means of three clasps or spring buttons 12 like those employed on the lower front quarters, and one of them being arranged at the upper end of these sections, another at the lower end thereof and another at or near the waist line.

The several sections are drawn around the body and held in engagement with the same preferably by means of a belt having two sections 18, 13 extending horizontally around the lower front sections and having their opposing inner ends detachably connected by means of a buckle 1 1 while their extremities are connected by rivets 15 or otherwise to the lower rear sections adjacent to the outer edges thereof and ator near the waist line. The sections of the belt are preferably constructed of elastic material so as to hold'the body sections of the balancing device against the body of the person being measured.

The side edges of the lower front and rear body sections are arranged vertically or parallel to the vertical inner edges of these sections and these outer edges are preferal'lly reinforced or stiffened by means of strips 1(3 of wood or other suitable material secured to these edges.

Each of the upper body sections is provided with a vertical line 17 which extends downwardly from the respective shoulder point and which will hereafter be referred to as the suspension line inasmuch as the same indicates the location of the line from which the respective lower body section is suspended after the upper and lower sections have been adjusted horizontally relativelyto each other and the proper balance between these parts has been obtained for use in subsequently preparing the draft of the garment. The lower edge of each upper body section 1s arranged at right angles to its line of suspension and projects hori zontally in opposite directions from the lower end of this line. The lower edge of each upper section and its suspension line therefore form, theoretically, a T-square the head of which is arranged horizontally and the blade of which projects upwardly from the central part of the head, forming two right angles.

The whole of each lower body section is generally constructed in the form of a rectangle which is formed by its upper and lower horizontal edges and the vertical inner and outer edges thereof. Inasmuch, however, as the lower front sections overlap each other at the median line at the front of the body and the inner edges of the rear lower sections overlap each other at the rear median line or backbone of the body each of these lower sections is provided adjacent to its inner vertical edge with a. vertical median line 18 on which line the vertical rows of fastening buttons or

devices

11, 12 are arranged at the front and rear of the body so that when the two pairs of front and rear lower body sections are secured to each other the two front median lines will coincide and the two rear median lines will coincide.

Each of the lower body sections is also preferably provided with a vertical guide line 19 arranged arbitrarily adjacent to the vertical outer edge thereof and parallel to this edge and to the companion median line.

The horizontal line of division between the upper and lower sections of each quarter are arranged on a line which leads to the lower part of the arm hole and which is commonly known as the depth of scye. For convenience in measurement and deducing the balance of the garment each of the lower body sections is provided near its upper edge or depth of scye line with the horizontal guide line 20 arranged parallel with the depth of scye line and at right angles to the companion median line and vertical side guide line, this upper horizontal guide line being preferably carried to the uppermost fastening button between the companion lower body sections.

F or determining the extent which the upper and lower sections of each quarter are shifted horizontally relatively to each other points for obtaining the balance of the garment, indicating means are provided which preferably consist of a scale 21 in inches extending from zero at the median line laterally toward the arm hole on the upper edge of each lower section the reading of each scale being determined by the location of an arrow d0 or other mark on the lower edge of the respective upper section relatively to this scale.

it cans are provided for indicating the relative position, in a vertical direction, of each adjacent pair of front and rear lower body sections relatively to each other on one side of the body. The preferred means for this purpose shown in the drawings comprises a scale 22 arranged on the vertical rear or outer edge of each lower front body section which runs from zero at or near the waist line upwardly and downwardly and which cooperates with the adjacent part of the belt 13.

For the purpose of centering the quarters of the body sections on the body of the person being measured two pairs of centering straps 23, 24: are employed, the members 23 of one pair being arranged on the front of the body and depending from the shoulder points on opposite sides of the neck, and the mem ers 24: of the other pair depending on the rear side of the body from said shoulder In utilizing these centering straps the lower ends of the same are crossed and detachably coimectod with each other by means of a button25 or similar fastening device at the point of crossing. This crossing point will hereafter be referred to as the centering point of the centering straps and this point is associated with the median lines on the respective lower body sections for the purpose of determining whether the body sections are properly centered on the body of the person being measured.

l2 tending outwardly in opposite directions from the shoulder points are two shoulder straps 26 which are adapted to be arranged lengthwise over the upper side of the shoulders of the person being measured. These shoulder straps are utilized in connection with a measuring tape for deternining the height of the shoulder and the length of the sleeve of the garment for which measurements are being taken.

in using this balancing device the procedure is as follows:

The tailor first takes the usual measurenents for determining the size of the garment to be made viz. the coat and sleeve lengths, and the circumference at the breast, waist and hip.

The four quarters of the balanclng evice are now applied to the body by throwing the upper body sections over the shoulders, engaging the neck strap with the back of the neck, fastening the front and rear lower sections together by their waist line buttons, drawing the lower body sections against the body by means of the belt, and anchoring the shoulder pivots at the proper position on the shoulders by engaging the elasps 10 with the adjacent part of the collar of the person to be measured.

The lower front sections are then pulled down so as to lie evenly against the front of the body. If new the median lines of the low-er front sections are parallel or coincide with each other this shows that these sections are properly or harmoniously suspend ed from the upper front sections on the points of suspension at the shoulder points and that the front part of the garment is balanced. If, however, the lower front sections after being thus pulled down are not parallel with each other and their median 'lines are arranged at an angle relatively to each other, the same are shifted along the line of division between the same and the upper front body sections, representing the depth of scye, until their median lines are parallel, and these sections hang in a properly balanced position on the front side of the body. The extent to which the lower front body sections have been thus shifted relatively to the upper front body sections is indicated by the position of the lower ends of the lines of suspension on the upper front body sections relatively to the scales on the upper edges of the lower front body section. The tailor now has determined. how far from the front median lines it is necessary to locate the front suspension lines in order to balance this part of the garment. In other words, the correct distance from the front lines of suspension to the front median lines has been established for use in drafting the garment so as to preserve the parallelism of the front median lines and suspension lines in order to obtain a balance of the front part of the garment. After these balancing deductions have been obtained the upper and lower buttons on the front lower sections are fastened so as to hold these sections parallel.

The rear quarters of the body sections are now balanced in the same manner in which the front sections were balanced in the man ner just described by first shifting the upper rear body sections and the lower rear body sections horizontally relatively to each other until the median lines of the lower after which the upper and lower buttons of the lower'rear sections are fastened for retaining these sections parallel. During this adjustment of the lower rear sections the location of the lower ends of the lines of suspension on the rear upper sections have been shifted as much as necessary relatively to the scales on the lower rear sections to produce a balance of these sections on the rear side of the body.

The front centering straps 23 are now secured to each other in a crossed position and if the points of crossing between the same is over the front median lines of the lower front sections it indicates that these sections are centered on the body. If the front median lines do not coincide with the centering point of the front centering strap the front sections are shifted laterally bodily until the front median lines do coincide with the front 7 centering point.

The rear sections are then in like manner shifted horizontally, if necessary, so that the median lines of the same coincide with the rear centering point which is located at the crossing between the rear centering straps 24 which have been connected for this purose.

p The angle of the conical form of the balancing device as it hangs on the body is now determined. This can be done by taking two circumferential measurements around the lower body sections at two different points in the height of the body and noting the difference between these two measurements. This angle may also be determined by measuring the distance between the upper and lower parts of the opposing side or outer edges of the front and rear lower sections, thereby determining the angle of divergence of these two side edges and the angle of the conical form of the body to which the balancing device is applied. It is, however, most convenient to determine the angle of this conical form or of the divergence of these side edges of the loweinbody sections by taking horizontal measurements between the arbitrarily located

vertical guide lines

19, 19 which are located on the lower sections at a distance from the vertical side edges thereof, inasmuch as such measurements can be taken in this manner more easily because'the arms of the person being measured are arranged over the spaces between the side edges of the lower sections and therefore interfere with the taking of these measurements.

- Now the diflerence is determined between the lengths of the lines of suspension from the shoulder points to the depth of scye on the front of the body and the lengths of the lines of suspension from the shoulder points to the depth of scye on the back of the body in order to balance the garment and adapt the same to a body which is either normally erect, or abnormally erect or stoops forward. For this purpose the location of the belt 13 is noted relatively to the scale 22 on the vertical side edge of the front sections. If the body is normally erect the belt on each side is arranged in line with the two zeros of these graduations. If the body stoops the belt is arranged above the zeros on these scales and if the body is abnormally erect the belt is arranged below these two zeros. The difference in length between the front and rear lines of suspension from the depth of scye on the front and rear side of the body is thus accurately determined and the chart of the garment may be drafted accordingly. Lateral leaning of the body may also be determined by noting the difference between the relation of the belt 13 to the scales 22 on opposite sides of the body so that the garment pattern may be treated accordingly while cutting the cloth.

F or practical purposes, the length of the suspension line at the front added to the same at the back (either side) should be equal to one-half the chest measure of the garment to be drafted.

To determine the height of the shoulders the shoulder straps 26 are first swung outwardly from their points of suspension over the highest parts of the shoulders and lengthwise over the same. A tape measurement is now taken from an arbitrarily established point 27 on the lower part of each front suspension line to an arbitrarily established point 28 on the lower part of the companion rear suspension line while the tape is crossing over the outer end of the corresponding shoulder strap. This measurement when compared with the measurement taken between said

arbitrary points

27, 28 and over the suspension point on the respective shoulder will indicate the height or slant of the shoulder and enable the chart to be drafted accordingly. lVhen taking these measurements for the shoulder height the tape is passed over the highest part of the strap which in some cases is nearer and in some cases farther from the companion shoulder point although other points may be selected if desired. Several measurements for determining the shoulder height may be taken across different places in the length of the shoulder strap.-

The outer end of each shoulder strap preferably terminates adjacent to the upper edge of the respective arm hole so that, if desired, the length of the sleeve may be measured by applying a tape to this end of the shoulder strap.

For the purpose of establishing any suppression which may be necessary in the garment next to the arm holes by reason of the rotund-shape of the body, a measurement by means of a tape is taken from the shoulder points to arbitrarily placed points 29, 30

which are preferably placed on the front and rear body sections and on the guide line 20 adjacent to the depth of scye.

By the use of this device representing the fore and back parts of a garment when placed upon the body it is possible to determine with accuracy the elements which influ ence the size measurements and permit of producing a draft of the garment which when completed will balance on the body.'

Inasmuch as this device permits of practically a 'iplyin the square to the body, as if it were a flat surface, it is possible to make garment (1 fting an exact science.

For con'xenience in folding the .balancing device when the same is not in use, each centering strap is secured to the adjacent upper body section by means of a clasp 31 and each shoulder strap is held in place between one of the front upper sections and one of the centering straps.

l claim as my invention:

1. A device for balancing garments comprising a section adapted to rest on the shoulder, and a clasp adapted to be connected with a collar on the neck of the person to be fitted and pivotally connected with said section at the shoulder point.

A device for balancing garments comprising two front sections adapted to be applied to the front side of the body of the person to l e fitted, two rear sections adapted to be applied to the rear side of said body, a pivotal connection between each front section and the corresponding rear section, and adapter to be mounted in a fixed position at the adjacent shoulder point of the person,

and a tie extending from one of said pivotal connections to the other.

A device for balancing garments comprising front and rear sections adapted to be applied to the front and rear sides of the body of the person to be measured, the opposing outer edges of the front and rear sections being parallel with the median line and at right :ngles to the depth of scye line, whereby the opposing outer edges of the companion front and rear sections will diverge more or less when applied to a conical body and enable the angle of the conical form of the-body to be'determined.

1-. A device for balancing garments com prising two upper front sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two upper rear sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same on the body at said shoulder points, two lower front sections adapted to be connected with each other on the inner edges thereof and each slidably connected with one of the upper front sections along a horizontal line at the depth of scye, and two lower rear sections adapted to be connected with each other on the inner edges thereof and each slidably connected with one of the upper rear sections along a horizontal line at the depth of scye, the outer edge of each lower section being parallel with the median line and said median line and outer edge of each lower section being arranged at right angles to the depth of scye line thereof, whereby the opposing outer edges of the lower front ant rear sections on the same side of the body will diverge when applied to a conical body and enable the angle of the conical form of the body to be c etermined.

5. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotallysupporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two lower sections which are adapted to be-connected with each other and each of which is slidably connected with one of said upper sections so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other, and means for drawing the lower front and rear sections against the body to be measured comprising a belt passing around the front sections and having two sections which have their inner ends adj ustably connected together while their outer ends are connected respectively with the rear sections.

{3. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two lower sections which are adapted to be connected with each other and each of which is slidably connected with one of said upper sections. so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other, and means for indicating the forward or backward inclination of the body.

7. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two lower sections which are adapted to be connected with each other and each of which is slidably connected with one of said upper sections so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other and means for indicating the forward or backward inclination of the body comprising vertical scales arranged on the front lower sections at the outer edges thereof and each having graduations run ning from zero at the waist line upwardly and downwardly, and a belt secured to the rear lower sections and passing around the front lower sections and across said scales.

8. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two lower sections which are adapted to be connected with each other and prising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two lower sections which are adapted to be connected with each other and each of which is slidably connected with one of said'upper sections so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other, and means for fastening said upper sections at said shoulder points to the collar of the person being measured. 10. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, and two lower sections which are adapted to be connected with each other and each of which is slidably connected with one of said upper sections so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other, a neck strap connecting the upper sections at said shoulder points and adapted to rest on the nape of the neck, and clasps arranged at the outer ends of said neckstrap and adapted to engage the collar of the person being measured.

11. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the per son to be fitted, two lower sections which are adapted to be connected -with each other andeach of which is slidably connected with one of said upper sections so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other, and means for centering the sections on the body.

12. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two lower sections which are adapted to be connected with each other Copies of this patent may be obtained for and each of which is slidably connected with one of said upper sections so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other, and means for centering the sections on the body comprising front and rear pairs of centering straps, each pair being pivotally secured together at their upper ends at the shoulder points while their lower ends are adapted to be fastened together in a crossed position at the adjacent median line.

13. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two lower sections which are adapted to be connected with each other and ach of which is slidably connected with one of said upper sections so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other, and shoulder straps connected with the shoulder points and adapted to rest on the upper sections at the shoulders.

14. A device for balancing garments comprising two upper sections provided with means for pivotally supporting the same at the shoulder points of the body of the person to be fitted, two lower section which are adapted to be connected with each other and each of which is slidably connected with one of said upper sections so as to permit the same to be adjusted horizontally relatively to each other and shoulder straps connected with the shoulder points and adapted to rest on the upper sections at the shoulders, said upper front and rear sections being provided with vertical suspension lines extending downwardly from the shoulder points and measuring points on the lower parts of said lines between which tape measurements may be taken across the shoulder points and shoulder straps for determining the height of shoulder.

Witness my hand this 19th day of May, 1911.

AUGUSTUS MEAS.

Witnesses:

THEo. L. Porr, ANNA HnIeIs.

five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.