US1220817A

US1220817A - Lasting and sewing machine.

Info

Publication number: US1220817A
Application number: US73059112A
Authority: US
Inventors: William A Bond
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Current assignee: USM Ltd; United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Priority date: 1912-11-11
Filing date: 1912-11-11
Publication date: 1917-03-27
Anticipated expiration: 1934-03-27

Description

w. A. BOND, LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. H, 1912.

Patented Mar. 27,1917.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1-.

W. A. BOND.

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 11. 1912. Patented Mar. 27,

3 snaHs-suan 2.

w lllllillllllillllilfiilWlWlFH mm r b W. A. BOND.

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

I APPLICATION FILED NOV. II, I912.

Patented Mar 27, 1917.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3- I I I I I I I I I l I I I ll mww RN Nhm '- a lasting and sewing machine.

31 I. ll

WILLIAM A. BOND, OF NAHANT, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR 'I'O UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PA'IERSON, NEWJEBSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

To all whom it my camera:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM A. Bonn, a citizen of the United States, residin at Nahant, in the county of Essex and tate of Massachusetts, have invented certain Imlprovements in- Lasting and Sewing -Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

use in the manufacture of boots and shoes and particularly to machines for lasting and attaching the upper of a shoe to the sole.

lhe illustrative embodimentof the invention herein shown and described is represented, by way of exemplification merely, as

The conto struction of the machine is especially adapted tit) fit)

for lasting a stitch-down or Veldtschoen type of shoe and simultaneously stitching to the projecting margin of the sole the outturned flange of the upper.

It'is desirable for reasons well understood to work with the shoe right side up where the upper can be seen. In making stitchdown shoes with the aid of the only prior machines known to me for sewing such shoes so presented, a shoe had to be prepared by tacking the upper to the edge of the sole or last to hold it for the action of the stitching mechanism. This tacking, usually preceded by more or less pulling of the upper, was a separate preparatory operation, after which the sewing machine was employed to force the upper against the top face of the sole margin and secure it. As a feature of the present invention the preliminary operation of tacking the upper to the edge of the sole or last 1s eliminated and instead a gripper is caused to hold the upper relatively to the sole while the upper is being forced against and secured to the top face of the sole by sewing mechanism. As I am advised, it is new with me to provide a machine, in which a stitch-down shoe can be presented right side up, in the use of which the preparatory lasting and tacking of the shoes can be dispensed with and substantially equivalent results secured by the use of a gripper that cooperates with the upper sewand fastening it to the top face of the sole.

Another important feature of the inven-' tion is found in means for seizing and holding the upper of a stitch-down shoe relatively to the projecting margin of the sole and means coiiperating therewith for pressing the upper into the angle between the side of the last and the top face of the project- This invention relates to machines for ing margin of the sole together with means for inserting fastenings in said angle through the upper so positioned and into the top face of the sole margin to permanently secure them together.

In the preferred organization of the machine in which are also to be recognized important features of the invention there is included mechanism whereby the outturned margin of the upper is gripped just in ad Vance of the point where it is to be attached to the sole, is drawn down toward and against the outwardly extending margin of the sole, and is immediately thereafter secured to the sole by sewing through the upper and sole at a point substantially in the angle formed by the side of the last and the upper surface of the margin of the sole Patented Mar. 2'2, 191?.

which extends beyond the bottom of the last.

Another feature of the invention is found in means provided for. efi'ecting feeding movements of the gripper while it holds the stock. Thesemovements may correspond in direction and extent to the feeding movements of the sewing mechanism, as for instance with the feeding movements of the awl in a sewing machine of the type herein illustrated. It is desirable, however, at times that the feeding of the stock by the gripper shall be in excess of the feeding of the work by the sewing means, as for example, when rounding the toe oryother convex portion of the periphery of the shoe, in order to take care of the excessive fullness of the upper about such portions of the last. It is accordingly a feature of this invention that the feeding movements of the upper held by the gripper may be caused to exceed the feeding movements given to the work as a whole by the sewing means, so that the upper will as to bring the be plaited at those portions where fullness upper is gripped in a plane above the sole exists and will be secured in that condition. A further feature of the invention consists in means for stretching the sole attaching flange of the shoe lengthwise, so that the length of the edge will correspond in extent with the periphery of the outsole. To effect this result the gripper may at times be caused to stretch the flange lengthwise by movement relative to the work feeding means. In the construction shown, the movements of the gripper engaging the flange of the upper may at times be made shorter than the movements of the sole feeding means so that the attaching flange w1ll be stretched lengthwise, and will therefore be in condition to be worked into lasted position along the concave portions of the periphery of the shoe.

A further feature of the invention consists in stretching the flange more at its outer edge than at its inner edge. As herein shown, the gripper jaws are formed to stretch or expand the flange lengthwise and to stretch it more at its outer edge. This result is obtained, as shown, by making on the gripping faces of the jaws corrugations which extend transversely of the flange and are most prominent on the part of the jaw which engages the flange nearest its outer edge.

Another feature of the invention consists in means for moving the gripper as a whole in a plane parallel to the plane of the sole while the gripping surfaces of the gripper jaws are at an oblique angle to the plane of the sole, so that stock held by them may be brought into contact with the sole as they are depressed toward it. Provision is made for adjusting the gripper in either of two horizontal directions so that the gripping portions thereof may be brought close to the presser foot of the sewing mechanism and may be adjusted laterally of the shoe edge so jaws ofthe gripper close to the side of the last and into the angle between the upper and the sole.

It is a further feature of the invention that the gripper may be forced inwardly toward the sewing means by pressure of the shoe upon it in bringing it into proper relation to said sewing means. This feature insures that even with short stock the upper can extend between the gripper and may be securely gripped and tensioned by it prior to the action of the sewing means upon the rubber. This feature is especially advantageous for insuring that the gripper will follow the shoe and remain in contact therewith when the sharply convex portions of its periphery are being treated by the sewing mechamsm.

Another important feature of the invention is found in the mechanism whereby the and is then carried down toward and preferably against the outstanding margin of the sole. This movement of the gripper to tension the upper is preferably effected through resilient means, so that overstraining or tearing of the upper is avoided. In the present embodiment of the invention this result is effected through two separate mechanisms which may be used independently or together and each of which may be adjusted to vary the tension on the upper. This arrangement provides a wide range of adjustment and enables the machine to be adapted to a great variety of work. The extent of movement of the gripper toward the sole after it has seized the upper may also be adjusted to meet the requirements of different kinds and conditions of work.

It is important further that one of these mechanisms be so constructed as to vary the tensioning pull upon the upper when the feed movements of the gripper are varied, the pull being preferably increased as the feed movements are increased along certain portions of the shoe as for example, when operating about the toe. This is desirable as the proper lasting of the upper is most difficult about those portions of the shoe where the upper is to be plaited. The means for feedlng the shoe as a whole communicates movements to the gripper to feed the upper, the movements being made greater or less than the movements of the work so as to plait or tension the upper. The feed movements of the gripper are preferably caused to effect the tensioning movements of the gripper, these movements being therefore directly pro ortional to the said feeding movements. pecifically the gripper carrying member is connected by suitable mechanism with a cam roll which is forced under the cammed end of an outwardly projectin lever for operating the lower jaw, there causing it to be depressed. Preferab y the movement of the gripper as a whole is increased in its transference to the cam roll so that movement of the cam roll is greater than the movement of the gripper.

It is also a feature of this invention that the presser plate acts as a second gripping means which seizes theupper in the position in which it is presented by the gripper and holds it while it is being secured by the sewing means. Each portion of stock is thus treated successively by two pairs of gripping devices, one which seizes, tensions and presents the stock and another which receives and holds the tensioned stock for the operation of the sewing means.

The improved gripper mechanism is preferably combined with a sewing machine and is herein shown as combined with a lock ma amstitch, wax thread machine of the curved hook needle and awl feed type, but it is to be understood that other sewing mechanism a may be employed without departing from needle in their operative movements pass through-the presser foot and are arranged. to work as close as possible to the outer face of the upper on the last, there being between the awl and needle and face of the up-.

er only a very thin portion of the presser oot, so that the awl and needle act substantially in the angle between the top face of the sole and the side of the last.

A further important feature of the invention is found in the relation between the awl feedand the gripper mechanism. When the gripper has seized the work and has brought it down close to the sole, the awl enters the work and both awl and gripper advance to feed the work. After the feeding movement, however, and while the awl is still moving through the work and the work is being held by the presser foot, the

gripper returns into position to seize and treat another portion of stock. Preferably and as herein shown the gripper is connected to the mechanism which communicates movement to the awl to feed the work, and that connection is so arranged that at a certain point in the cycle of the machine it may be discontinued or tripped so as to release the gripper and permit it to return under spring pressure to its normal position. As hereinbefore noted, this connection is preferably such that the movement transmitted to the gripper may be more or less than that given; to the awl and further such that the tensioning pull on the upper will be proportional to the amount of feed movement given the gripper.

As a further feature of the invention the gripper jaws are arranged with their shanks extending horizontally in a transverse direction and have their gripping faces so formed that the under jaw is very thin along the edge that lies in the angle formed by the last and the projectingmargin of the sole and also along the edge next to the presser plate. By this construction the upper is brought substantially in contact with the sole in the said angle and is also brought substantially into the plane of the gripping face of the presser plate along theside of the gripper which is next to that plate.

To coiiperate with the thin edge of the lower jaw, the upper aw may be provided with lips to extend down overthe thin edge of the lowerjaw.- One of these lips lies between the jaw and the shoe and acts to crowd the upper against the sole and intothe angle between the shoe and the projecting margin of the sole, and the other lies between the end of the jaw and the presser foot and acts to crowd the upper downwardly'into the plane of'the lower face of the presser foot. These and other features of the invention will appear more fully from the following detailed description when read in connection with the drawings and Will be pointed out in the appendedclaims.

Figure 1 is a perspective View of the forward portion of a machine embodying the inventlon;

Fig. 2 isa side elevation of the machine,

the fnont being to the left;

F g. 8 is a plan view; F lgs. 4 and 5 are sectional details showing the manner in which the gripper acts to seize the upper and stretch it'into contact with the projecting margin of the sole;". I

Fig. 6 is a view partly in section looking from, the machine toward the work and showing the awl and gripper about to feed the work, the presser foot being raised;

Fig. 7 is a similar view showing the parts after the work has been fed by the awl and seized by the presser plate;

Fig. 8 is a perspective detail of one form of gripperjaws;

Fig. 9 is a perspective detail of a somewhat modified form of lower jaw, the position of the work being shown in dotted lines;

Fig. 10 is a'perspective view of the lower jaw member detached;

Fig. 11 is a sectional detail taken at right angles to Figs. 6 and 7 and showing the position of the presser plate and other parts for forming the stitch in the angle between the side of the shoe and the projecting margin thereof.

In the drawings 10 represents a Work support upon which the under face of the marginal portion of the sole is rested, the shoe being held right side up with the outturned margin of the upper extending toward the machine. A presser plate 20 is arranged to act against the support and to form therewith a work clamping or gripping device which cooperates with the gripper, to be described, for manipulating the upper. The

presser plate which is pivoted at 30 is nor-v mally held resiliently against the work support by a spring, not shown, and at the proper time in the cycle of the machine the presser plate is forced away from the work a support by a cam, not shown, on the mainper aws are designated by the

characters

100, 200 and their action will be seen from Figs. 4, 5, 0 and 7. They seizetheupper in a plane over and above the plane of the outstanding margin of the sole, Fig. 4, and move toward the sole, Fig. 5, thereby tensioning the upper and working it into lasted position. It will be seen, Fig. 6, that the gripper jaws act on the upper at a point j ust to the rear, of the point at which the presser plate and sewing mechanism are acting and that they are arranged to move toward the sewing point after they have gripped and tensioned the upper, Fig. 7. The presser plate 20 serves to hold the work during the action of the stitch forming mechanism, the awl of which is indicated at 700, Fig. 7, the needle coming up from below in line with the awl in tlus figure, and the outward portion of the presser foot is so formed as to materially assist in working the upper closely into the angle between the last and the outwardly extending margin of the sole. Feed movement of the gripper toward the sewing point is derived from a moving part of the machine associated with the awl actuating mechanism, and the gripper is supplemented and assisted in its work feeding function by the awl 700, Fig. 1, which first passes downward through a slot in the presser foot 20 and through the upper and sole, Fig. 6, and then moves to the right, Fig. 7, a distance equal to the length of the stitch. The arrangement is such, however, as will be later described, that the gripper may be given a greater or less movement than the awl as may be required by the different portions of the eriphery of the shoe.

From the figures refiirred to it will be ob served that the jaws of the gripper are so formed that the gripped stock is carried down into contact with the sole both along the edge of the shoe in the angle between the side of the last and the outwardly extending margin of the sole and also at the advance end of the gripper next to the presser foot 20. By this construction the upper material is tucked closely into the angle just prior to being secured and is brought into the plane of the lower face of the presser foot so as to ass readilybeneath it during. the feeding of the work at'which time the pressure of the presser foot is released, Fig. 6, as described. One form of jaws for effecting the results stated is illustrated in Fi -.-8, where it will be seen that the rib 201 o the upper jaw extends in front of and below the corresponding edge of the lower jaw to crowd the upper down against the sole and into the angle, while the rib 203 of the upper jaw reaches down in front of the lower jaw and holds the upper against the sole to facilitate its being fed under the presser foot. A similar result is effected by the construction illustrated in Fig. 9, it

being understood that the corresponding upper jaw has a. construction complementary to that of the lower jaw.

Both forms of jaw shown have corrugations extending substantially transversely of the longitudinal axisof the jaws and in the direction of the tensioning pull u )on the upper, and these corrugations are deep on the rear side of the jaw and shallow on the front side. Preferably they gradually increase from little or nothing at the front edge to undulations of substantial width at the rear. Since the direction of the ribs or corrugations is substantially in the direction of the tensioning pull on the upper, the upper may slip from between the jaws if the strain should become excessive without danger of injury to the material, and furthermore by the deep corru ations at the rear the outer margin of t e upper is stretched or expanded so as to correspond with the greater extent of the outer periphery of the sole against which it is laid, as is clearly apparent from Fig. 9.

The lower jaw is carried on a member having the shape shown in Fig. 10. This member comprises the jaw portion 100, the jaw shank 101, the bearing portion 102 and the lever portion 104 having the cammed end 105. The bearing ortion 102 is mounted on the shank 202 o the upper jaw about which it rotates in the movement of its jaw portion toward and from the sole. The cammed end 105 is held against a roll 404 by a spring 120, Figs. 1 and 2, which is secured at one end to a screw 122 which passes through the lever 104 andis provided with a thumb nut 124, Fig. 3. At the other end the spring is secured to the frame 4 by connections 125. The force with which the upper is gripped may be regulated by adjustment of the nut 124. Sto s comprising screws 106, 108 are rovided or limiting -the movements of the ever 104 and consequently of the lower jaw. These stop screws are threaded through the portion of the machine which carries the gripper and engage, respectively, above and below a laterally extending web 103 of the lever 104. The screws 106, 108 therefore provide adjustable limiting stops for the movement of the lower jaw and may be provided with set nuts 112, 110, respectively, to hold them in positions of adjustment.

The upper jaw 200 of the gripper is formed upon an inwardly bent portion 201 of a shaft 202 which is journaled at 204 in rea er? a gripper carrying frame 206. The end of the shaft 202 has a tongue 208 which engages a fork 210 in a shaft 212. By this connection the part 212 becomes virtually a continuation of the part 202, but movement of the part 202 longitudinally relatively to the part 212 is permitted. The tongue and fork connection is covered by a sleeve 216 secured at 218 to the part 202. A compression spring 220 is arranged on the shaft 212 between an end of the sleeve 216 and a journal 222 formed on the pincer carrier 206. It will be seen that the spring 220 holds the sleeve 216 normally against the bearing 204 and that the gripper is thereby resiliently held in advanced position and may be moved inward to a certain extent, determined by the space 209 at the end of the tongue 208, against the spring 220.

Upon the shaft 212 is also a torsion s ring 230, one end of which is held indepen ently of the shaft 212 while the other engages a collar 232 loose on the shaft. The collar 232 has a tooth 234 arranged to engage corresponding notches in a collar 236 fixed to the shaft. By turning the collar 232 relatively to .the collar 236 the torsional tension of the spring 230 may be adjusted. It will be observed that the spring acts to turn the shaft 212 in a direction to raise the upper jaw of the gripper. The shaft 232 extends through another bearing 240 on the carrier 206 and has fixed thereto by a split bearing the arm 242 which carries an adjustable stop 244 for limiting its movement in one direction by contact of the stop with the casing 4 of the machine. The arm 242 also carries a cam roll 246, Fig. 2, which contacts with an edge cam 250 attached to the inner face of the pulley wheel 6 of the machine.

The roll 246 is mounted on a stem 252, Fig. 2, which passes through a sleeve 254 on the arm 242. The sleeve contains a compression spring 255 acting against the lower end of the stem 252 and a screw plug 259 on the upper end of the sleeve. The stem 252 is threaded and has a nut 258 which holds the stem in place and permits adjustment of the tension of the spring and the normal position of the roll 246. It will now be seen that the projection on the cam 250 will act on the roll 246 to swing the arm 242 upwardly and rotate the shaft 212 against the tension of the spring 230 and l will, therefore, lower the gripper jaw 200.

The spring 230 being light compared to the spring 255 in the sleeve 254, the latter will not be compressed until considerable resistance is ofiered to the movement of the jaw 200 by the work or the lower jaw 100.

not connected to its actuating mechanismthe gripper carrier is held against an ad- 7 justable stop 344 by a spring 342,

While. the mechanism described is operable to-s eize, pull and feed the upper, it is desirable toprovide supplementary means, which may or may not be used to increase the gripping action ofthe gripper. To this end the roll 404 upon which-the lower jaw lever 104 normally rests is mounted on the reduced end of a lever 400 upon which it is held by :a clip 406. The lever 400 comprises two parts hinged together by a horizontal pintle 408, the lever as a whole being mounted for movement about the vertical axis of the pivot 402. The vertical position of the 'roll 404 relatively to the cammed end 105 of the lower jaw lever is determined by an adjusting screw 410 which is threaded through the lever 400 and has sliding contact with the frame 4. The lever 400 is actuated about its pivot 402 to force the roll 404 under the lever 104. through a resilient connection with the carrier 206. This connection comprises a rod 412 pivoted at 414 to the carrier 206, and passing through an opening in the lever 400 near its pivot 402. A compressing spring 416 is held on the rod by a nut 420, the other end of the spring resting against the lever and holding it against the stop nut 422 on the rod 412. It will now be clear that as the carrier 206 oscillates about its pivot its motion will be communicated to the lever 400, through the spring 416, and that, since the connection of the carrier 206 with the lever 400 is near the pivot of the latter, the movement of its outer end which carries the roll 404 will be greater than that of the outer portion of the carrier 206 and hence greater than the movement of the gripper. The movement of the roll 404 in excess ofthat of the cammed end of the lever 104, resulting from this arrangement, causes the roll to advance under the cammed end of the lever and to force the lower jaw of the gripper downwardly, thus increasing the tension pull of the gripper upon the upper. At the same time the gripping force of the gripper isincreased since the action of the roll 404 relieves the spring 255 of the opposing action of the spring 120 so that more of its force maybe efi'ective to grip the upper. The use of the sup lementary upper tensioning mechanism just described may be discontinued by removing the stop rod 344, unhooking the spring 342, then moving the lever 400 back from under the cam 105 against the spring 416 and swinging it upwardly about the position. When t e sprin and stop are replaced, the mechanism wil be operative 1n the same manner as before and is well adapted for certain classes of work.

In the operation of the mechanism thus far described, the gripper first seizes the upper and brings it down against the projectmg margin 0 the sole and feeds it along under the presser plate which then seizes 1t and forces it down upon the sole and tucks it closely into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting mar in of the sole, this action of the presser oot belng augmented by the operator who presses the shoe inwardly against the front edge or face of thepresser foot, thereby forcing the upper into the angle, the gripper yielding, if necessary,'against the spring 220 to permit the shoe to be crowded against the needle shield 24 on the front face of the presser foot. Since the needle shield is very thin and the needle and awl act just back of it, the sewing line is brought very close to the angle between the last and the projecting edge-of the sole as is clearly illustrated in Fig. 11.

Before describing the mechanism whereby movement is communicated from a moving part of the sewing mechanism to the gripper, it will be convenient to explain briefly the construction and o eration of a portion of the sewing mec anism. The sewing mechanism maybe of any known type which is adapted to this purpose, that chosen to be shown herein-by way ofexemplification being similar in many respects to the Campbell sewing machine, tures of which are disclosed in the following United States Letters Patent,-Nos. 374,934 and 374,936 granted to Campbell and No. 469,374 granted to Metcalf and Gooding.

Upon the cam shaft 2 is a series of cams from which the various sewing instrumentalities are operated as is clearly shown in Patent No. 469,374,. above referred to. A shuttle 500, Fig. 1, is mounted to oscillate in the casing 502 about the stud 506,-Fi 2, as an axis, its motion bein derived rom cams on the shaft 2, substantially as is shown in the said patent. is also mounted and operated substantially as in this patent. The needle is curved and is mounted on a carrier524 which is. pivoted at 522 to a slide'526 for movement about a point located at the center of curvature of the needle. The slide 526 is mounted for vertical movement .to carry theneedle bodily to a position in which its center of motion 522 is in line with the center of motion 702 of the awl so that when it is moved about its center of motion it will ass through the work in the path prepared or 'it by the awl. The needle 520 is moved about the center ivot 408 into inoperative various feax The needle 5%, Fig. 2, t

522 by a slide bar 528 a lint 530 with the needle carrier at 532. It will be seen that relative movement of the slides 526 and 528 will rotate the needle about its center of motion while movement .of the slides together in the same direction will raise and lower the needle bodily. The slides are moved in proper time relation to each other and the other parts of the machine by cams (not shown) on the main shaft 2.

p The awl 700, Fig. 2, is mounted for movement about an axis 702 at its center of curvature and is moved in an arc suflicientto carry it through the work and back out of the way b a link connection 704 with a lever 706 w ich is pivoted at 708 to the machine frame and is connected to a link 710 carrying the block 711 upon which is a cam roll 712 which engages a cam path in the right hand face of the cam 714. As the cam shaft revolaes the link 710 is reciprocated vertically and'communicates movement to the lever 706 which, through the link 704, causes the awl to rotate as described. The link 710 and roll 712 are guided for substantially vertical movement by means of a link 713 pivoted at One end to the block 711. and at the other end to the frame of the machine at 715, Fig. 3. Provision is made for lateral bodily movement of the awl relatively to the machine and the lever 716 as follows:

The pivot of the awl 700 is supported upon an awl carrier 726, Fig. 1, which is arranged to slide transversely of the machine on ways 727 formed on the frame. A pin 703 connecting the lever 706 with the awl operating link 704 is loose on the lever and is long enough to permit longitudinal movement of the pin 1n the lever equal to the length of the longest stitch. The upper end of the link 704 as it is moved by the lever 706 is guided by having sliding engagement with a rib 725 on the awl carrier 726. The carrier 726 is irregular in shape having a forwardly extending portion, Fig. 3, to which the awl is pivoted at 702, a lateral portion extending toward the left side of the machine, (the front being to the left in Figs. 2 and 3), and an upwardly extending porion, Fig. 2, through which its transverse movement is communicated to it. This latter portion, designated as 726", may be formed as a separate part, as shown, connected to the other part by screws 723 .and a laterally extending screw 729. The holes in 120 the part 726 are somewhatlengthened laterally of the machine so that by loosening the screws and adjusting the screw 729 the

arts

726 and 726 may be adjusted relatively to each other.

The transverse movement of the awl carrier 726 and awl to feed the work is'derived from the shaft 720, Fig. 2, which has a whichis connected by downwardly extending arm 722 at its forward end. The arm 722 is formed with a. longitudinally extending guideway in which a block 721, dotted lines Fig. 2, slides. In the vertical portion of the awl carrier 726 a vertical slideway is formed in which a block 7 23 is mounted. A pin 728 pivots the block 721 to the block 723 and connects the blocks to a link 7 52 which leads to mechanism for adjusting the blocks vertically in their guides. It will now be obvious that when the blocks are in their upper position with the pivot pin 728 in line with the axis of the shaft 720, no movement of the shaft 720- or arm 722 will be communicated to the blocks 721, 723 or to the awl carrier 726 and the awl will have no feed movement. As the blocks are moved downwardly toward the end of the arm 7 22, however, they will receive increased movement and the awl feed movements and stitch will be correspondingly lengthened. Means for adjusting the stitch comprises the link 7 52, a link 750 connected thereto,a lever 730 and a catch 732, Fig. 3, which are substantially as described in Patent No. 374,934 referred to above.

The rock-shaft 7 20 receives its motion from the slide 740,'Fig. 3, which is mounted on ways 742 upon the frame of the machine for vertical reciprocation and is operated by a path cam, not shown, on the inner face of the pulley wheel 6. Upon the rear end of the rock-shaft 720 is a crank arm 744 carrying a cam roll 746 which engages a crooked cam slotformed in a bracket 748 attached to the slide 740. At the proper time in the cycle of the machine the slide 740 is operated by the cam upon the pulley wheel 6 and through the cam slot in the bracket 748 communicates the proper rocking movement to the shaft 7 20 to move the awl carrier transversely of the machine thereby causing the awl to feed the work.

The awl carrier 726 is the moving part of the machine selected for communicating feed movement to the gripper and for this purpose the carrier 726, Fig. 3, has attached thereto a plate 800 to which is pivoted at 802 a lever 804 having a downwardly directed lug 806. The lug carries a pin 810 which engages one end of a compression spring 812, the other end of which is seated in the gripper carrier 204. The spring 812 holds the lever 804 with its rear end to the left against the carrier 726 and with its forward end in position to be engaged by a catch 830 mounted for adjustment by a slot and screw connection 834 upon the gripper carrier 206. The catch is held toward the lever 804 by a leaf spring832. Supposing the gripper carrier 206 to be resting against the stop 344 and the awl, carrier to be mov-.

ing laterally of the machine to the right, looking at Fig. 3 from the bottom of the sheet the front end of the lever 804 which is-held to the right by the spring 812 will displace the catch 830, causing it to engage over the end of the lever 804 and, upon the return of the awl carrier, will compel the gripper carrier 206 to move therewith. If

the catch 830 is not engaged behind the lever terial which has been seized by the gripper will be stretched between the awl and-the gripping point of the gripper.

After the feed movement of the awl has been completed, it is convenient to have the connection between the awl carrier and the gripper broken to permit it to return to position to seize and feed another portion of the work. To this end the catch 830 is released from the lever804 at the proper time by a lug 840, Figs. 2 and 3, attached to the lever 706 which rotates the awl. 840 is so arranged that after the awl has entered the work and the feed movement thereof has taken place it will, upon further movement of the lever 706., engage behind the catch 830 and force it out of engagement The lug with the lever 804 against the'tension of the spring 832 whereupon the gripper carrying member 206 will be moved about the pivot 336 by the tension spring 342 until the memher 206 contacts with the adjustable stop 344.

It is desirable at times that the feedmovement of the gripper shall exceed the movement of the awl. To this end an adjustable stop 815 is provided which is arranged to the left, Fig. 3, of the downwardly projecting lug 806 on the lever 804. The stop 815 is carried on a longitudinally movable bar 816. If the stop 815 is adjusted sufiiciently to the left so that the lug 806 does not engage it during any part of the movement of the awl carrier, the feed movement of the gripper will be equal to or less than that of the awl as described, but if the stop is adjusted to the right so' as to engage the lug of the lever 820 which 'hasas its pivot a screw 822 of steep pitch which is threaded I into an enlargement 823 on the end of the bar 816. The lever 820 is held in any one of a'number of positions of adjustment by a sprin pin 824 arranged to engage suitable depressions in the lever.

Preferably the catch 830 and the stop 344 are so adjusted that normally, with the step 815 at its inner limit, the gripper movements will be less than the awl movements. Then by adjusting the stop-815 to the right by the lever 820 the movements of the gripper may be gradually increased to equal or exceed the movements of the awl. For example with the lever 820 in the position shown in Fig. 3 the gripper will be given the greatest movement while with the lever 820 in a vertical position the movements of the awl and gripper may be equal and with the lever thrown forward the awl movements may exceed the gripper movements.

vWhen the curved hooked needle 520 has been moved bodily upwardly until the center 522 about which it oscillates is substantially coincident with the center of movement of the awl, it is given'a'movement about that center to cause it to pass upwardly through the work-as described. The thread is then hooked upon the needle by a looper 600 and the needle is then rotated backwardly and moved bodily downwardly carrying the bight of the upper thread to a position below the shuttle and in front of it so that the shuttle may, upon its forward movement, enter the loop. The shuttle is then moved forward through the loop and the needle, to free it from the thread, is given a slight upward movement to disengage the hook from the bight of the thread. The needle then returns to a position of rest for the remainder of the cycle.

The looper mechanism, best shown in Fig. 3, comprises the looper 600 through the forward end of which the upper thread passes. The looper is secured at its other end to a vertical rock-shaft 602 to which is secured an arm 603 carrying at its outer end a block 604 which is mounted to slide in a link 606. A loopencarrier 608 in which the rock-shaft is rotatably supported is mounted to slide in a bracket 610 extending above the aWl carrier and secured to the frame at 613.-

Forward and backward movement is given to the looper carrier 608 from a rock-shaft 612 mounted on the frame of the machine which has a downwardly extending arm 616 connected by a link 615 to the looper car rier. The shaft 612 receives motion through an arm'618 and push rod 620, Fig. 2 from a cam, not shown, on the cam shaft 2 and communicates, through vthe mechanism described, a right line movement to the looper carrier 608 in the bracket 610 in a direction transverse to the described oblique movement'and this is effected by the link 606 in which the block 604 slides, as described.

The link 606 is pivoted at 630 and is given a slight rocking movement about its pivot by suitable connections from the arm 621 of the link' 606 to a cam, not shown. The oblique sliding movement of the carrier 608, together with aslight rocking movement of the looper about 602 as an axis due to the movement ofthe link 606, serve at the proper time to carry the thread around the end portion of the needle and catch it on to the hook thereof as described.

After the stitch has been formed by thc passing of the shuttle through the loop formed in the upper thread by the downit is necessary to draw back the thread to tighten the stitch. The slmttle therefore is caused to pause at the limit of its movement,

States Letters Patent 374,936, previously referred to. From the looper the thread passes upwardly through a guide 000 over a pulley mounted at 902 upon the end of a lever 904 pivoted between its ends at 006 to a stationary portion of the machine. The thread then passes down under a pulley mounted at 907 upon the end of a link 008 which is guided for vertical movement in the slot 910 and is pivoted at 912 to the forward end of a lever 914 pivoted at 016 to the machine frame. The lever 914 is also connected by a link 920 with the rear end of the lever 904, all as clearly shown in Fig. 2. After passing under the pulley 907, the thread passes through the friction device 022 to the thread brake which comprises an abutment 924, a lever 926 pivoted at 028 with one end arranged to engage the abutment 924 and the other normally held depressed by the spring 930. A projection 905 upon the lever 904 is arranged to engage the lever 926 and raise it, thereby releasing the thread brake at the proper time to 'furnish thread for the new stitch. Movement is communicated to the lever 914 from the slide 740, already described as actuating the awl carrier, and means is ing the extent of that movement by means of a slide 940 mounted in the slide 740 for adjustment at right angles to its direction 944 on the slide 940 extends through the slot 942 and is provided with the usual col- Ward movement of the needle, as described, 7

provided for varymacaw lar and thumb nut 946. By loosening the thumb nut 946 the stud 944 may be adjusted longitudinally of the slot 942 to vary the extent of movement communicated from the slide 740 to the lever 914.

The stitch having been formed as described, the outer end of the lever 914 is given an-upward movement by the slide 740, thereby giving the forward end of the lever 904 an upward movement by reason of its connection therewith through the link 920 and consequently the projection 905 a downward movement, thereby releasing the lever 926 and permitting it to grip the thread against the abutment 924 through the spring 930. At the same time the pulley mounted at 907 is drawn down by reason of its connection 908 with the inner end of the lever 914. The thread being held at 924 it will be seen that the movements of the

pulleys

902, 907 in opposite directions will draw back the thread and tighten the stitch and that the extent of its tightening action may be.

regulated by means of the thumb nut 946.

' In the operation of the machine the workman standing at the front of the machine, which would be to the left in Figs. 2 and 3, presents a shoe of the stitch-down or Veldtschoen type to the machine by placing the outstanding margin of the sole upon the support 10 with the outturned margin of the,

upper beneath the presser foot 20 (which for that purpose may be raised by a pedal not shown) and between the gripper aws 100, 200.v The presser foot is then released to clamp the upper against the upper face of the margin of the sole and the machine is; started.- The awl 700 is oscillated, through the lever 706 and its connected mechanism, downwardly through the work and the awl carrier 726 is actuated toward the left by the shaft 720- and the connected mechanism. Meantime the upperjaw 200 of the-gripper has been actuated downwardly by rocking of the shaft 212 to grip the upper against the lower jaw 100 and then to actuate both jaws downwardly to stretch the upper and bring it into the angle betWeenthe-side'of the last and the projecting margin of the sole as well as into the plane of the lower face of the presser foot 20. Furthermore through the catch .830 the gripper has been caused to feed the upper at the same time that the awl has been feeding the work. The feed movements of the gripper are controlled by the lever 820 in accord ance with the character of the portion of the shoe being operated upon, being caused to exceed the movements of the awl about those portions of the shoe, as for example, the toe where there is considerable fullness of the upper to be taken care of, and adjusted to cave and the margin of the upper must be stretched more or less in securing it to the sole. At these portions of the shoe the movement of the gripper may be .rendered less than the movement of the awl so that there will be a stretching of that portion of the upper between the point held by the awl and the portion seized by the gripper. The awl having completed the feed of the work, the needle is actuated upwardly through the hole made by the awl which, of course, is moved backwardly out of the way of the needle, and the remaining steps of the stitch forming operation are performed as has been described.

As the work proceeds the operator will press the work against the end of the presser foot 20 which is formed to tuck the upper closely into the angle between the side of the last and the margin of the sole and will thereby hold the upper in the position in which it has been previously placed by the gripper during the operation of the stitch forming mechanism. The material between the end of the presser foot and the slot therein, through which the awl and needle 0p-' erate, is very thin so that the awl and needle as the work .is pressed against the end of the presser foot, are brought very close to the side of the shoe so that the stitches are formed substantially in the angle between the side of the shoe and the outwardly extending margin of the upper.

Although the machine has been described as having an awl feed, it is to be understood that the sewing mechanism may be varied and that the invention may be embodied 1n sewing mechanism in which the needle 1s the feeding element or in sewing machines of other well-known types without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the claims which follow.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to. secure by Letters Patent of the United States is the sole.

2. In a machine for lasting stitoh-down shoes, the combination with agripp'er for seizing and tensioning the free margin of the upper toward the projecting margin of the sole, and means associated with the gripper for forcing the upper against the sole and against a limited area next to the side of the last, of means for subsequently sewing through said area and the margin of the sole to secure the parts in place.

3. A lasting machine having, in combination, upper and sole connecting mechan'sm including a reci rocating awl carrier, an awl moving perpen icularly to the sole for sewing through and through the sole and the margin of the up er, a gripper pointed laterally toward said awl and substantially perpendicularly to the direction of movement of the awl for grasping the margin of the upper, and means for movin the gri per in lines substantially paralle to the d irection of movement of the awl. I

4. A lasting machine having, in combina tion, sewing mechanism, a gripper, a rest to receive the margin of the tread face of a shoe outer sole, and means whereby the gripper is automatically closed upon the upper and given a bodily movement toward the rest to effect tensioning of the upper.

5. A lasting machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism, a gri per, a shoe rest to receive the under face 0 the margin of a sole, and means whereby the gripper is automatically closed and given a bodily movement toward the rest to effect stretching of the upper preparatory to its being secured to the sole by said sewing mechanism.

6. A lasting machine having a gripper, an awl feed sewing mechanism, a shoe rest arranged tosup ort a shoe against the action of the awl, an means for actuating the gripper and awl relatively to cause the upper to be stretched edgewise.

7 A lasting machine having, in combination, a gripper constructed and arranged with gripping faces at an oblique angle to the last edge to engage an outturned flange of an upper at the side of a last above the last bottom and press it thereupon, means for closing the gripper, means for relatively moving the gripper and the last substantially in the plane of the last bottom to plait the upper, and means for sewing the upper to the projecting margin of a shoe sole.

8. In a machine arranged to last a stitchdown shoe right side up, a shoe rest, a gripper comprising a lower jaw located above the rest for the shoe and arranged to be moved down toward it in stretching the upper, an upper jaw movable to grip the upper against the lower jaw, means for s'ecurlng the upper to the sole in the angle between the top face of the sole and the side of the last, and means for operating the jaws and the securing means in time relation.

9. In a machine arranged to last a stitchdown shoe right side up, a shoe rest, a gripper comprising a lower jaw located above the rest, a cooperating jaw, sewing mechanism in advance of the gripper, and means for actuating the jaws toward the rest to effect stretching of the upper and for moving the the sole in position to shoe and the gripper together into position for the sewing mechanism to fasten the upper.

10. In a machine for lasting and sewing shoes having a projecting flange of u per to be sewed to the projecting margin 0 the sole the combination of means for seizing and tensioning the upper into lasted position, means for feeding the upper, means for sewing the upper to the sole as it is fed by the feeding means, means forvarying the feed movements as the length of stitch is varied, and means for varying the tensionin movements automatically in accordance witfi the feeding movements. I

11. A lasting machine having, in combination, a fixed shoe rest, a gripper located above the rest, means for moving the ipper toward and against the margin 0 the shoe sole to pull the u per and lay it against e fastened, and means for effecting adjustment of the grippers toward and from the rest to vary the effective pulling movement.

12. In a lasting machine having a rest for the bottom of a last, the combination of a gripper having a movement perpendicular to the last bottom and in a path entirely outside of the last, and means for holding the grigper resiliently toward the last.

1 A machine for lasting a shoe having a projecting sole to receive an outturned flan e of the upper comprising a rest for the ottom of the shoe, and a gripper movable perpendicularly to the shoe bottom and having aws formed with oblique gripping surfaces and arranged and operated to lay the upper in contact with the projecting margin of the sole.

14. A machine for lasting a shoe havin a projecting sole to receive an outturne flange of the upper comprising a stationary abutment to support the projecting margi of the sole, a gripper for engaging the upper, and means for actuating the gripper to seize the upper and then to lay it upon the top face of said projecting margin of the so e.

15. A machine for lasting a shoe havin a projecting sole to receive an outturne flange ofthe upper comprising an abutment for the projecting margin of the sole, a gripper for engaging the upper, and means for relatively actuating said abutment and the gripper to tension the upper and lay it substantially flat. upon the projecting margin of the sole, and means to sew the upper in the 'angle between the top face of the sole and the side of the last while it is so held.

16. A machine for'lasting a shoe having a projecting sole to receive the outturned flange of an upper comprising an abutment for the rojectin margin of the sole, a

gripper or engaging the upper, means for ma am relatively actuating said abutmentand the gripper to lay the upper upon the top face of said projecting margin of the sole, a device to force the upper into the angle formed by the side of the last and the top face off the sole, and means for sewing the upper in said angle.

17. A machine for lasting a shoe having a projecting sole to receive an outturned flange of the upper comprising means for positioning the shoe, a gripper arranged to lay the upper against the projecting margin of the sole, a presser foot for forcing the upper into the angle between the top face of the sole and the side of the last, and means acting through the presser foot to fasten the upper in said angle.

18. A machine for lasting a shoe having a projecting sole to receive an outturned flange of the upper COII'IPIISIIIg' means for positioning the shoe, a grippenacting to lay the upper against the pro ecting marginal face of the sole, a presser foot for forcing the upper close into the angle between the top face of the sole and the side of the last, and means for sewing the upper in said angle in lasted position.

19. A machine for lasting shoes having an outturned margin of upper to be fastened to the top face ofthe margin of the sole, having, in combination, a gripper, sew ng mech anism, power operated means for actuating said mechanism, and means to actuate the gripper from said operating means to effect pulling of the upper toward said top face of the margin of the sole and to feed 1t toward the sewing mechanism.

20. A lasting machinehaving, in combination, a gripper, sewing mechanism, and power operated means for relatively actuating the gripper and the last to pull the upper locally and lay .it into posltion in the angle between the last and sole to be fastened and then, while holding the upper so positioned, to move the lield upper into the field of operation of the sewing mechanism.

21. A lasting machine, having, in combination, a gripper, and a sewing mechanism, said machine being constructed and arranged to effect movement of the gripper with relation to the last to pull the upper and bring it into the plane of the sole, and to plait the upper and bring it into the field of operation of the sewing mechanism.

22. A lasting machine having, in c0mbination, a gripper and a sewing mechanism having an awl feed, said machine being c0nstructed and arranged to effect movement of the gripper from said feed and relatively to the shoe to pull the upper and movement of the gripper with the shoe, but in excess thereof, whereby the upper is plaited and brought into the field of operation of the sewing mechanism.

2:3. A lasting machine having, in combination, a shoe rest and a presser plate arranged one above the other, a gripper arranged laterally of said rest and plate, and means for actuating the gripper to move the upper relatively to the last to tension the upper toward the rest and to bring it into operative relation to the presser plate to be held thereby while the gripper continues to hold the upper.

24:. A lasting machine having, in combi- 11216011, a shoe rest and a presser plate arranged one above the other, a gripper ar-' ranged laterally of said rest and plate, means for actuating the gripper to move the upper relatively to the last and toward the rest to pull the same and bring it into the plane of operation of the presser plate to be held thereby while the gripper continues to hold the upper, and means for returning the gripper to normal position while the upper is held by the presser plate.

25. A lasting machine having, in combi nation, .a gripper, a rest for receiving the tread face of the margin of a sole, means for relatively actuating said parts to cause the upper to be stretched over the last and toward said rest step by step by repetition of the operation at different points successively, and sewing mechanism located on that side of the gripper from which the feed movement of the shoe takes place.

26. A machine for lasting shoes having outwardly projecting upper and sole margins, having, in combination, a gripper, a shoe rest engaging the margin of the tread face of the sole, mechanism for relatively actuating said parts to cause the upper to be stretched over the last step by step by repetition of the operation at differentpoints successively, and mechanism arranged to secure the upper in the angle between the top face of the sole and the side of the last by stitches formed through the projecting margin of the upper and the outwardly extending margin of the sole and closely in the said angle.

27. A lasting machine having, in combination, means for working an upper into an angular formation between the side of the last and the projecting edge of the sole of the shoe, and fastening mechanism acting in said angle and cooperating with said means to force the upper down into said angle before the fastening is effected, and to fasten the upper very close to. and hold it in the apex of said angle.

28. A machine for lasting stitch-down shoes, comprising means for supporting locally the margin of the tread face of the sole with the upper extending freely adjacent to said margin, an awl arranged to enter the work from above and to feed the work progressively over the work support,

a gripper arranged to seize the free margin of the upper and tension the same toward the top face of said sole margin, and means for fastening the upper to the sole margin.

29. A lasting machine having, in combination, means for supporting the work, penetrating means arranged to enter the work by passing through the upper into the sole and to feed the work by lateral movement thereof, means for the upper progressively toward the sole prior to the penetrating and feeding movements, means for moving the gripping means with the feeding means, andmeans for varying the movements of the gripping means relatively to the feeding means.

30. A lasting machine having, in combination, work supporting means, Work feeding means, a gripper arranged to seize and tension the'upper progressively prior to each work feeding movement, and means whereby the gripper is moved for a part only of the time that the work is being moved, and for a less distance whereby the upper is tensioned longitudinally of its edge.

31. A lasting machine having a shoe rest,

, a gripper, awl feed sewing mechanism, and

the upper awl mechmeans for effecting tensioning of from the feed movements of the .anism.

32. A machine for securing a sole to the sole-attaching flange of a shoe, having, in combination, means for securing the sole to the flange, and means constructed and arranged to be caused at times to stretch the flange lengthwise.

33. A machine for securing a sole to the sole-attaching flange of a shoe. having, in combination, means for securing the soleto the flange, said securing means being constructed and arranged to feed the work, and means engaging and holding the sole-attaching flange back during the work feeding movement to cause the flange to be stretched.

34. A lasting machine having, in combi-' nation, work supporting means, work feeding means, a gripper arranged to seize and tension the upper prior to the work feeding movement, and means for giving the grip-per a movement in the direction of but less than the movement of the work feeding means to cause the upper to be stretched in the direction of its edge by the greater movement of the feeding means.

35. A lasting machine having, in combi- 4 nation, work supporting means, work feeding means, a gripper arranged to seize and tension the upper in time relation to movements of the work feeding means, means for effecting feed movements of the gripper, and means for relatively varying the movements of the work feeding means and of the gripper to effect stretching of the margrippingv and tensioning ginal portion of the upper lying between them in the direction of its edge.

36. A machine for securing a sole to the sole-attaching flange of a shoe, having, in combination, sole fastening means, and flange gripping means constructed and arranged to stretch the flange lengthwise and to stretch it to the greatest extent at the outer edge of the flange.

37. A machine for securing a sole to the sole-attaching flange of a shoe, having, in combination, sole fastening means, and means for stretching the flange lengthwise.

38. A lasting machine having a shoe rest, a gripper having upper and lower jaws, awl feed sewing mechanism, and means for effecting downward movement of the lower jaw from the feed movements of the awl 41. A machine of the class described having, in combination, sewing mechanism comprising a presser foot, sewing means operating through the presser foot adjacent to its outer edge, and a grippercomprising upper and lower jaws, the upper jaw having an overhanging lip in advance of the end of the lower jaw to crowd the upper into position to pass under the'presser foot to be secured by said sewing means.

42. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, sewing mechanism .comrlsing a presser foot and adapted to operate in the angle between the pro ecting margin of a sole and the side of a last, and a gripper comprising upper and lower jaws, the upper jaw having overhanging l1ps arranged in advance of and along the side of the lower jaw and acting to crowd the upper closely into the said angle and into position to pass under the presser foot to be secured by said sewing means.

43. A machine of the class described having gripping means for seizing and tensioning the upper, means for giving the gripping means varying feed movements, and means for varying the tension applied to the up er as the feed movements are varied.

44. X machine of the class described having, in combination, gripping means for seizing and tensioning the upper, means for imparting varying feed movements thereto,

ill It and means for increasing the tension of the gripping means upon the upper when the feed movements are increased' 45. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, mechanism arranged to secure together the flange of the sole and the upper of a'stitch-down shoe, and a gripper arranged to seize the margin of the upper and stretch it down toward the sole flange and to move laterally in the direction of feed toward the securing mechanism while holding the upper under tension.

46. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, mechanism arranged to secure together the flange of the sole and the upper of a stitch'down shoe, and a gripper arranged to seize the margin of the upper and stretch it down toward the sole flange, said gripper being mounted to project forwardly beyond the plane of the securing mechanism into position to grasp the upper close to the side of the last on a curved toe portion of the shoe and to yield inwardly asthe gripped portion is advancedtoward the securing point,

47. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, mechanism arranged to secure together the flange of the sole and the upper of a stitch-down shoe, and a gripper arranged to seize the margin of the upper and stretch it down toward the sole flange, said gripper being mounted to yield toward the machine under pressure of the shoe against it. I v

48. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, mechanism arranged to secure together the flange of the sole and the upper of a stitch-down shoe, and a gripper arranged to turn about an axis substantially parallel with the plane of the shoe bottom to produce the upper tensioning movement, said axis being laterally removed from the gripping point.

49. A machine of the class described having, in combination, mechanism arranged to connect the flange of the sole and the upper of a stitch-down shoe, and a gripper comprising a horizontally arranged shaft having a lateral arm carrying one jaw, a sleeve capable of turning on the shaft and having an arm carrying the other jaw, and means for operating the jaws.

50. A machine of the class described having, in combination, mechanism arranged to secure together the flange of the sole and the upper of a stitch-down shoe and including a work table to receive the sole flange, and a presser foot "cooperating therewith to grip and release intermittently the flanges, and a gripper for tensioning the upper, said parts being arranged to permit the operator to hold the shoe laterally against the presser foot and upper jaw of the gripper to cause said foot and jaw to position the upper close in the angle against the side of the last for the securing operation.

51. A machine of the class described having, in combination, mechanism arranged to sew through the flange of the upper and sole, a gripper for seizing and feeding the upper as the work is fed to the sewing machine, means for releasing the gripper before the operation of forming the stitch, andmeans for holding the work during the stitch forming operation.

52. In a machine for lasting shoes having an outturned margin of upper, a gripper for seizing the margin and tensioning the upper, the gripper comprising jaws having on their engaging surfaces corrugations which are low and shallow next the shoe and increase in height and depth toward the outer edge of the upper whereby the edge portion Bill is stretched relatively to the portion which is tucked into the angle between the last and the projecting margin of the sole and is made to correspond in extent with the pe riphery of the sole.

53. In a machine for lasting stitch-down shoes, the combination of securing means acting substantially at the angle between the side of the shoe and the projecting portion of the sole, and a gripper constructed and arranged to seize the projecting margin of the upper and crowd it into the angle, said gripper having gripping surfaces formed to expand the outer peripheral margin of the upper to enable it to correspond in extent with the periphery of the sole margin to which it is attached.

54. In a stitch-down lasting and fastening machine, the combination with a work rest to be engaged by the tread face of the sole margin, and a gripping means that holds the margin of the upper against the sole while fastenin means secures the upper to the top face 0 the sole close to the side of the last, of said fastening mechanism operating as described.

55. In a stitch-down lasting and fastening machine, the'combination with a work rest to be engaged by the tread face of the sole margin, and a sewing mechanism; of a gripper and means to actuate it to pull the upper over its last and hold the margin of the upper relatively to the margin of the sole for the sewing machine to press it against and sew it to the top face of the sole margin.

' 56. A stitch-down lasting and fastening machine having, in combination, means for holding a portion of the flange of the upper over the projecting margin of the sole, cooperating means for pressing the upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, and mechanism including a moving fastening inserting member and a thin guard-arranged relatively thereto for protecting the upper from injury during the operation of said member in applying fastenings to the tensioned upper as close as possible to the apex of said angle.

57. A stltch-down lasting and fastening machine, having means for gripping and holding a portion of the upper relatively to the projecting mar in of the sole, and means cooperating therewith for pressing the upper at a point between the holding means and the last previously secured point into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole and inserting a fastening to secure the upper at said intermediate point.

In testimony whereof I have signed my 15 name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM A. BOND.

Witnesses:

Evnnm'r W. V ARNEY, HARLow M. DAVIS.