US1216358A - Shoe. - Google Patents

Description

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE..-

ADAM H. PRENZEL, OF HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW J ERSEY.

SHOE.

Specification of Letters P: ,tent.

Patented Leb. zu, 1:117.

Original application file'd May 21, 1913, Serial No. 768,975. Patent No. 1,159,084, dated November 2, 1915.

, Divided and this application filed September 15, 1914. Serial No. 861,822.

1 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that "I, ADAM H. PKENZEL, a citizen. of the United States, residing at lll alitax, in the county of Dauphin and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain In'iprovements in Shoes, ofwhich the followingdescription, 111 connectlon with the accompanying drawings, is a spec1fication, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to shoes and partic'ularly to shoes having outturned uppers and commonly referred to as stitch-down shoes j An Object of this invention is to produce a stitch-down shoe in which the best materials may be utilizedwithout so increasing the cost of the shoe as to make it unprofitable to manufacture.

In the manufacture of stitch-down shoes little attention has been paid, up to the present time, to the fitof these shoes, to so constructing the shoes that they will maintain their shape as they are worn and to so making the shoes that; they can be resoled withoutrelasting. One-of the reasons why so little attention has been paid to the fit of these shoes is that until grecently it has been almost impossible to conform a stitch-down upper to the last and to keep it conformed to the last until the ontsole is attached. It

"has therefore only been profitable to make on my copending applications these shoes the cheaper grades and of such poor materials in most cases that there has been little occasion for having the shoes "repaired, since the shoe "as a whole has been in such shape by the time the sole has become worn that it has not been worth repairing. By the improved lasting process disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,117,086, granted November 10, 1914:, on my co-pcnding application Serial No. 725,476, filed Oct. 12, 19-12,'and by the ma chine for performing this lasting process disclosed-in United States Letters Patent No. 1,117,087, granted November 10, 1914, and No. 1,117,440, granted November 17, 1914, Serial 725,477 and 736,079, filed respectively, Oct. 12, 1912, and Dec. 11, 1 912, the pr'oblem'of lasting stitch-down shoes has been so suc cessfully solved that it has now become both feasible and profitable to manufacture these shoes of better .materialsand for the better 'tnl'ed not only in childrens sizes but which is especially adapted for boys and 'mens work and which is of-such neat appearance that it can also be manufactured for the misses and womens trade.

lhe preferred method of making the shoe constiti. ting the present invention is fully disclosed and described in my co-pending application upon Which United States Let tors Pa :ent No. 1,159,084 were granted November 2, 1915, of which the present application is a division. 9

Other objects and imported features of the invention will appear from the following (16% :ription' and claims when considered in connection with the. accompanying drawings in Which,

. iguie 1 is a perspective view of the extension insole employedin the manufacture of the improved shoe bythe improved proo- .inthe completed shoe.

In preparin the extension insole 2, which,

is chani'eled in such manner that a welt strip 6 is separated from the sole with the grain si ie up and that an undercut channel 8 is formed, leaving achannel lip or shoulder .90 is shown in l ig;,l, a sole of the outline and size of he, outsole'4to be used in'the shoe 10 formed to provide a crease or'igroovc 8 between the undercut shoulder and thee tension adge of the insole. This channeling operation preferably extends from .a point '12 at the front of the heel-seat part of the sole around the sole to a second point 14 where tie channeling knife is withdrawn,

leaving the welt strip 6 attached to the sole at this end. After the channeling operation that part 16 of the heel-seat end of the sole which lies within the channeled portion and above the plane of the surface from which placed upon the bottom edge, of

the weltstriphas been removed is separated from the sole by a splitting machine, or other suitablemeans, as. far forward as the f ont end of the heel seat, to form a tongue edge of-sald insole and said integral welt over which the heel end of the upper may The ext ,i sion 1 insole, having been preparedin the manner shown in Fig. 1, is

the'raised central portion 18 of the insole has its edge substantially flush with the the last, or extending slightly beyond the edge but centered upon said last, and the upper when placed upon the last is drawn down and the angle of the upper is forced'into the channel or groove 8, thus turnin the lip 10 up or forcin it s1 e-or bottom faceof the ast v as far backas possible into the channel or 'grove 8 and iss'eculfed in a'fastening, preferabl a the] insole 2 and clenched upon the bottom this position by staple 22 driven throught'the upper in, t is angle and through of the insole.-

' described, the outsole The shoe'having' been lasted-in. the manner insole, the .welt;-6 is laid upon the outturned edge of the-upper, and the welt, upper, ex-

' tension edgeof united by stitches 26.

the foot I 'insole and also to provide a filler for the space inside of the insole,

the insole and outsole are In order toprovide proper insulation for and to provide a cushion for the the depressed extension edge '20 a filling piece 28 is preferably interposed between the insole and outsole secured'by Letters '55 before the outsole stitching operation, this filling piece being formed of felt, felt paper or any other suitahle' filling or cushioning material.

The lasting operation hereinabove, described may conveniently be performed with the staple lasting machine shown and described in my co-pending application Serial No. 7 36,079, filed Dec. 11, 1912, upon which United States Letters Patent No. 1,117,440

were granted November 17, 1914:.

Having thus' described the invention, What is claimed as new and desired to be States is r v 1. A shoe, vomprising IIL COIIIbIHBJtIOD an upper, an ins le having an extension edge "an integral welt,- a shoulder shaped to lie within and support he upper upon the inside'of the shoe and an integral "tongue over last in such position that manentlp to said insole, ing located in the angl" of the upper and 'under the overhanging 4 is. placed upon the support the upper securing said upper to said-insole,

Patent of the United which the heel end of the upper is lasted in,

having an extenslon edge and an integral welt, and having within said extension edge anunde'rcut shoulder "shaped to lie within and support the upper on the inside of the shoe, said upper having" an outturned mar? gin lying upon said insole, fastenings securing said upper persaid fastenings beshoulder of the insole, and an outsole secured to said welt, upper and insole.

3. A stitch-down shoe comprising an upper, an insole having an extension edge and an upper supporting shoulder within said extension edge undercut to provide a crease or groove between said shoulder and said extension edge said upper being outturned upon said ex 'ension edge of sa1d-in sole,'staples permanently securing said u'pper to said insole in said crease'or groove, said staples being inserted through the angle of the upper and through ,the insole and clenched upon the bottom face of the insole, a Welt laid upon said outturnedportion of the upper, and an outsole secured to said welt, upper and extension edge of the insole.-

4. A stitch-down shoe comprising an insole having an extension] edge and an 1nextension edge of the tegral welt and having within said extension edge a shoulder shape'dto lie within and upon the inside of the shoe, an upper having its heel end lasted in over a portion of the heel end of the insole, said upper being outturnedupon the extension edge of said insole, staples permanentlg staples beinginserted through the upper in the angle formed-by outturnlng and through tom -face of the insole,

Welt, the. outturned upper, extension edge of said insole andsaidToutsole;

In testimony whereof-I have signed my name to this specification inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses.

' ADAM H.,PRENZEL. Witnesses: 1 j

R L. W. RY/AN,

G. W. finumz,

he insole and being clenched upon-the botan outsole', and fastenlings securing together the-integral-

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