US1210545A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

A. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION HLED SEPT. 25. 1912.

,Qi @,545. Patented Jan. 2, 1917.

4 SHEETS-SHEET l.

QW; @MW

. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE,

APPLICAUON FILED sEPT.-25.19x2.

Mews@ A. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICAHON FILED SEPT. 25, |912.

lacnfed Jam. 2, i917.

4 SHEETSSHET 3.

A. R. lSCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 25. I9I2.

Patented Jan. 2,1917.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4 mmm@ L'weviaapf 7 g Q ,ffmc MMM] Lw @ai 'narran enanas ramener onirica AUGQ'ST R. SCHQENKY, 0F SOMERVILLE, MASSACHUSETTS, SSIGNOR 'O THE REECE SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION F MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specication of Letters Patent. f

Patented Jan. 2, 19117.

`welt are sewed together. An example of that class of machines is illustrated my prior application .Serial No. 680,356, filed February 27, 1912, which in turn refers to expired U. S. Patent No. 478,870, of April 26,1892.

An object of the present invention is to generally improvethe construction and operation of sole sewing machines of all classes, including as examples the machines of the prior application and patent above mentioned.

A special object of the present invention is to so reorganize or rearrange the various instrumentalities of the prior machine, and to so reconstruct or dispense with various portions or devices as to materially simplify the construction and operation of the machine and largely reduce the number of mechanical parts required in its make-up, thereby securing decreased expense of construction and greater durability and freedom from wear and tear.

Particularly is it an object'hereof to simplify the machine and reduce its number o1" parts by reorganizing the machine with respect to the various parts of its thread mechanism and combining all of such parts into a simple; eliicient and compact thread mechanism. With the introduction of this'improvement, and the general simplification of the machine. thereby permitted, I estimate that my invention enables a machine to be constructed with substantially two hundred fewer parts than before.

Other objects and advantages pertaining to the present invention will appear in the hereinafter following description, or will be apparent to those skilled in the art.

To the attainment of such objects and advantages. the present invention consists in the novel combinations, arrangements, de-

ysection on the planel 2-2 of Fig.' 1.

vices, and'parts set forth, described and illustrated in the following description and accompanying drawings.

I will first describe one form of machine embodying my improvements and will thereafter point out the novel features inthe claims.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is a front elevation of a sole sewing machine embodying my invention, or rather the upper part of Such machine, the post 1 being broken olf as shown, insteadof being illustrated as eX- tending to the floor as in said prior applicatlon and-patent. Fig. 2 is a left-hand side elevation of the machine, taken partly in Fig. 3 1s a right-hand side elevation of themachine shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 4 on an enlarged scale shows a left-hand elevation of the thread mechanism. Fig. 5 is a crosssection, taken on the plane 18--13 of Fig. i.

`Similar letters of reference designate corresponding partsin the several figures of the drawings.

Without attempting any extensive or careful comparison between the present machine and that of the prior patent and application referred to, I call attention that in the prior patent the main or power shaft carries besides the pulley four distinct cam disks` containing operating cams for the dierent parts of the machine, whereas in the present improvement I am enabled by the rearrangements, eliminations, and condensationsdescribed to dispense with one of those cam disks and operate all of the mechanisms with three cam disks. I further call attention that in said prior patent the thread manipulating means comprises to the left of and belowthe sewing point, Fig. 1, a thread take-up and other parts coperating therewith in manipulating the thread, while at the right of the sewing point, Fig. 1, is a complicated and unwieldy thread mechanism, many of whose parts are cordinated with or adapted to other parts 'of the machine, so as to produce many complications and a great number of parts; all of which is obviated herein by the rearrangements to be described, in which the thread measuring, clamping, and taking-up functions are performed in a. simple, compact,v combined mechanism, whose introduction constitutes a practical reorganization of the' machine, to

the attainment of the advantages hereinbe fore referred to. In a. word, the machine hereof is in its entirety a substantially new machine.

I w1ll refer now by reference numeral to the machine parts illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

Extending upwardly from any convenient base is the post 1, supporting at its upper end the head or casting, 2, which Will be ofa complicated structure unnecessary to de` scribe, it affording support for various of the working or non-working machine parts hereinafter to be referred to. The main shaft 3 runs in the upper part ofthe machine, extending from left to right, and supported in bearings or brackets 4.l At the left end of thel shaft 3, 'is pIley 5, which may be engaged by a belt for driving the machine. Carried on the' shaft are three cam disks, namely: cam disk 6, at the right, cam disk 7 in the center, and cam disk 8 at the left, containing a number of cams or grooves for operating various parts of the machine. A steel bracket 9, extending forwardly from the head 2, forms an important, fixed part of the machine, supporting the shuttle case, the

work support, the needle fittings, and other Y parts.

The shuttle case 10, may be located as usual, and may comprise a somewhat large casting, as indicated, to the front of which is secured the shuttle retainer ,11, in the usual formv of a ring, it serving to confine within the case the shuttle 12, which encompasses the bobbin 13, the latter retained in place by the device 14.

Before referring further to the various active instrumentalities, I would mention that many of the parts may be steam heated, for reasons well understood, enabling the use of wax thread, and for this purpose steam pipes 15 are shown, by which steam is conveyed to a steam box 16, surrounding, or forming part of the shuttle case, and steam box 17, atgthe lower part of the head, for heating the\thread take-up and surrounding' parts, and steam box 18, for heating theauxiliary take-up and also shaped to serve as a stop therefor, and steam box 19, for heating the initial tension located above the Wax pot 20, Figs. 2 and 3.

The main active and coperating instru-- mentalities in the present machine comprisev foot; the thread lifting hook- 29 abo-ve the worl; support and adjacent to the shuttle; the auxiliary take-up 30; the combined main take-up and thread measure 31, and the thread-lock 32.

Before referring more particularly to the construction of the above enumerated instrumentalities, bearing reference Nos. 21 to 32 inclusive, I will refer generally to the :irrangement of cams, so that the function and location of each cam may be understood in advance of the description of the connections from the cam to the instrumentality actuated thereby.

The right-handy cam disk 6, Fig. 1, contains on its right-hand surface a cam 33, for actuatingv the main take-up and thread measure 31. Cam disk 6 on its periphery contains cam or groove 34', for causing the to-and-fro movement of the feed slide which carries the awl 24. Cam disk 6 at its left face contains a cam 35, for actuating the thread lifting hook 29. Cam disk 7 at its. right-hand side contains cam 36 for automatically operating the presser-foot during each stitch, imposing an extra pressure upon it and releasingit. Cam disk 7 at its periphery contains cam 37, having connections for moving the looper forwardly and backwardly 1n cooperation with the other parts. Cam disk 7 at its left-hand face contains a cam for moving the awl upwardly and downwardly. Cam disk 8 at its right-hand face contains two cams o r grooves not shown, but serving in a well-known man'- ner for actuating respectively the thread looping hook 27, and the needle 25. Cam disk 8 at its periphery contains cam 41, having connections for moving the looper 28 to right and left. Cam disk 8 at its left face contains two cams, the outer one, 42, having connections for operating the needle guide, and the inner one, 43, effecting the shuttle movement in coperation With the other parts.

The feeding of the work herein is preferably effected by means of the awl, the latter being shifted in an advancing direction while engaged in the work, and returned to its original position after disengagement from the work. The following is a convenient mechanism for accomplishing this function: The guide-way 44 for the feed slide 45, is a fixed guide-way, sapported or formed on head 2, of the mac ine. Upstanding from the feed slide 45, 'is the awl post 46, at Whose upper end is carried the oscillating toothed awl segment 47, and the awl clamp 48, by which the awl 24 is secured to oscillate with the segment 47. The means of oscillating the awl will be hereinbelow described. Bolted on top of the feed slide 45,. is a casting 49. This is adjustable to right and left, Fig. 1, by means of connection 50, between the awl post 46y and the adjustment.

casting 49. The feed slide is vibrated through the casting 49, the latter having a link 51 extending tothe right and pivoted to an arc shaped crank arm 52, having an arc-shaped groove 53, at any desired point in which the link 51 may be connected, so that when the arm is actuated the link will be moved by varying amounts, according to For convenience the link 51 is extended to the right beyond its pivot and is bent vertically downward to form a handle 54, which may be thrown from and toward the operator in effecting an adjustment of feed. When proper adjustment is secured, it will be maintained by means of a pair of opposite stop pins 55, to prevent lateral, but permit longitudinal movement of the link 51. Shown in dotted lines in Figs. 1 to.3, is a vertical stud 56, carrying at its lower end the forwardly extending and swinging crank arm 52. The upper end of stud 56 is provided with an Ioperating arm 57 that extends rearwardly and is provided with a pin 58, that engages the cam groove 34, in cam disk 6 already ment`oned. By this means the continuous operation of the power shaft acting through the cam 34 effects a right and left-hand vibratoryy movement of the feed-plate, thereby carrying the awl post and the oscillating awl; and the extent of movement is adjustable by 'the handle 54, as already described.

I will now describe convenient connections between the shuttle 12 and the cam 43 in the cam disk 8, whereby the shuttle will be properly operated.

Pivoted at rear of the machine is a forwardly extending cam lever 59, Fig. 2, having a pin or stud 60, engaging the cam groove 43. The cam lever at its forward end carries a-toothed segment or rack 61, which in its up-and-down movement is braced by the guide, or contact plate 62. This rack has teeth on its right-hand side, which .engage a pinion 63 on the shuttle operating shaft 64. At its front end is a means for driving the shuttle, for example, the'driver 65. By the connections thus described, the shuttle is caused to oscillate, making nearly a complete revolution in one direction and then a reversal. bviously, however, the type of shuttle, or its manner of actuation, might be otherwise than as shown and described.

The presser-foot 23 is carried at the forward end of presser-foot arm 66, capable of swinging about a fixed stud 67, and having a rear extension or arm 68 rigid with arm 66. There is also a second rear arm or extension 69, which is'not rigid, but is spring connected with arm 68 by a spring connection, 70. .Extending downwardly4 from arm shaft 73, having a pin 74 projecting there-l guidance.

^ from,'to which is secured spring 75, pulling upon the pin so as to normally keep the presser-foot upon the work withAa moderate pressure. This moderate normal pressure is always in effect, except when varied by the automatic mechanism at each stitch, or by a suitable treadle operated releasing mechanisrn.

T will now describe suitable connections for oscillating the awl 24 from the cam 38 on the left face of the cam disk 7.

An operating lever 94, is pivoted at the rear of the machine, as shown at the righthand side of Fig. 3, and at its forward end this has the toothed segment or rack 96 and the latter engages with the rack 47 before referred to, with which the awl oscillates. The arm 94 is provided with a stud engaging the cam groove in the cam disk 7, and it will be understood that the cam is timed to cooperate with the other parts of the machine. Both toothed segments 96 and 47 oscillate in vertical planes, and they mutually engage.

The teeth are horizontally arranged, .as

shown in Fig. 3. One or both of the seg ments has sufficient length of tooth to permit a relative horizontal sliding between them, as the feed slide reciprocates. thus preserving the engagement of the awl connections. The segment, or rack 96, is properly guided by means of a rib on its right-hand side, seen in Fig. 3, engaging a fixed rib on the machine head, and the opposite side of the segment 96, contacts with the needle operating segment for mutual The operation of these parts is merely that as the main shaft rotates, the awl segment and awl are caused to oscillate. the awl thereby passing upwardly through the perforation in the presser-foot and returning downwardly.

For oscillating the needle 25 from one of the cams on the right face of cam disk 8. an operating lever may be employed, suitably actuated from the cam, having atits forward end a toothed segment, or rack. 97. (see Fig. 3) engaging a smaller toothed segment or pinion 99, (see Fig. 2) which carries the needle 25. The operation is that the curved needle merely oscillates from above through theopening in the work formed b v the awl, following up the awl to a point beneath the work, where a loop is fed to the needle hook and drawn upwardly by the needle above the work.

The needle guide 26, may be operated from a cam 42, at the left face of disk 8, by the following convenient mechanism, (see Fig. 2): A bell crank lever 101. has a stud 102, engaging the cam groove 42. and at its other extremity the lever is provided with a rack 103` which is engaged by a pinion 104. the pinion being mounted on a short. horizontal shaft 105.Yextending from the pinion 104 toward the right, and having' at its right end a second pinion, the teeth of which engage directly with the teeth on a segment which carries the needle guide 26.

The thread looping hook 27, may be operated from one of the cams at the righthand face of the disk 8, by any usual means, such as an inclined sliding push-bar, carrying the hook forward and backward in an upward incline, and a stud on said bar directly engaging the cam groove.

The threadl looper 28, may be conveniently operated from the peripheral cam 37 of the'disk 7 and the peripheral cam 41 of the disk 8, by the following connections: About a vertical pivot near the rear of the machine swings horizontally a bell crank lever 109, whose forward end may have a stud engagingcam groove 37. Lever 109 also has a lleftward extending arm which is forked at 111 for a purpose to shortly appear. A separate, forwardly extending arm 112 is provided with a slide 113, adapted to slide forwardly and backwardly in the arm 112, and this slide 113 carries the looper 28 at its front. On the rear end of slide 113, is a stud 114, which engages in the forked end 111, before referred to, of bell crank lever 109. Also a stud 115, shown in dotted lines, Fig. 2, carried on arm 112, engages in cam groove 41. The operation of this mechanism is that the eccentric portions of cam groove 41, effect right and left-hand swinging of arm 112 and thereby right and lefthand movements of the looper 28, while the eccentric portions of cam groove 37, acting through the bell crank lever 109, cause the slide 113, to move forwardly and backwardly, `thus carrying the looper 28 forwardly and backwardly. By these two movements, a compound motion to the looper is effected. The actual motion of the looper may be as is well knownand need not be particularly described, except to state that in coperation with the thread looping hook 27, it forms a loop and places it upon the needle hook below the work.

For operating the thread lifter 29 from the cam 35, at the left face of disk 6,-the following mechanism may be employed: A lifter operatinglever has al rear arm 116 and a forward arm 117, swinging about a central pivot 118. The rear arm 116 has a stud 119 engaging in cam groove 35, as seen in dotted lines, Fig. 3. The forward arm 117 carries the lifter 29, an adjusting device 120 being provided, however', for initially adjusting the position of the lifter. The operation of the lifter is to move vupwardly and downwardly, taking a thread loop from the hooked needle in one oscillation of the needle and subsequently delivering such loop to the shuttle, so as to interlock in a well-known manner the under and upper threads.

The auxiliary take-up, 30, is not power actuated, but works automatically with a spring 30a. This take-up in its vertical swinging movement encounters an upper stop 30", adjustable by a screw 30, and a lower stop 30d, both stops being formed on the steam box 18, which thereby maintains the take-up and auxiliary parts in properly heated condition. The 'construction ofthe auxiliary take-up, with its arm, rear pivot, and swing arrangement, is suiliciently clear \in Fig. 4 to require no further description. I will now refer to the mechanism for taking up the under thread in each stitch, for locking and unlocking the thread at proper points in the formation of the stitch, and for measuring ofi' the proper amount of under thread to be employed in each stitch, to determine in a uniform manner where the line of interlocking loops of under and up- .per thread will stand in the work. Heretoforethe'thread measuring mechanism has been aco-mplicated, clumsy mechanism, lo- .cated in a different part of the machine from the take-up. In the present invention, the

of a rotary wheel adapted to be locked against a release for rotation, said wheel having an interrupted peripheral V-groove,

the interruption being Aformed by a series of lateral recesses, such as round holes bored through from side to side, the bottoms of said recesses or holes substantially corresponding with the base of the'V-groove in regard to radial position. In connection with this thread clamp, or equivalent thread clamp, the present portion of my invention comprises a combined thread measure and take-up instrument, in the form of a swinging arm having a thread wheel at its outer end and the thread clamp located between such instrument and the thread supply; it being understood that the combined instrument is swung to and fro over a given path during the formation of each stitch and that the thread clamp opens and closes at proper times as hereinafter set forth, this being accomplished in such manner that the com- 'bined instrument in its operative movement first serves as a take-up to draw in the thread of the previous stitch and properly set it in the work, and then, after the release of the clamp, serves as a thread measure operated, namely, from the swinging movement of the arm, the latter havlng a part such as a cam, and the thread clamp having 13 0 naine-ae a part such as a bolt, the two cooperating so that at a given point in the arms swinging the bolt will cause the locking of the clamp, and on the return movement the releasing of the clamp. rllhis mechanism enables the stitch line, or line of interlocking loops of the stitches to be drawn as set'within the work a given proportion of the thickness of the latter. 1 will now describe in detail the particular mechanism in which this part of my invention is embodied.

rFhe main take-up or arm 31, is operated from the cam 33 at the right face of disk 6,

i while the thread lock 32, associated therewith, is adjusted from the short shaft 73 already referred to, which moves with, and vhose position is determined by the presseroot.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 2, 4, and 5, the thread from the wax pot 2O passes first to an auxiliary tension 121, located at the rear of the machine above the wax pot. Thence the thread passes forwardly through an interior passage or tunnel, 122, (see Fig. 1) where it is kept heated. -The thread then passes to the thread lock, or locking wheel, 32, and around the groove of such wheel for substantially a full turn, or preferably slightly more than a turn. Thence, the thread passes upwardly and forwardly Vto the auxiliary take-up 30, passing around the -wheel thereof, returning upon itself to the wheel 123, at the end of the combined' takeup and measuring arm 31. thread passes upwardly and forwardly again directly to the looper 28, which cooperates with the thread looping hook27, for feeding loops to the hooked needle.

Having thus generally described the mechanism, by showing the course of the thread, 1 will continue by describing th preferred details.

l1`he arm 31 and wheel 32 are mounted, rigidly and loosely respectively, on the left end of operating shaft 124. Said shaft at its right end has an arm 125 for oscillating it (see Figs. 1 and 3), which arm is connected by a link 126 .withthe arm 127 of a lever centrally pivoted at 128, 'and having an upwardly 'extending arm 129, the stud, 130, of which engages in the cam groove 33 for oscillating the shaft 124 and the take-up and measuring arm 31. rlihe shown contour of cam groove 33 determines the timing and the amount of oscillation of shaft 124 and the swinging of arm 31, 1t will be understood, of course, that the arm 31 is thrown upwardly its full height at the time 'the under thread is Ibeing passed around the shuttle, after which it returns to effect the taking-up of the loose under thread, the extent of this taking-up determining how far the under thread shall be pulled down into the work.

Referring to Figs. 4 and 5, an irregular Thence, the i plate or cam plate 131 is shown, this sur- .rounding the shaft 124 and secured to the arm 31 so as to oscillate therewith. Loose on the shaft 124 is a hub 132, which may be built up, but for convenience is shown as a single piece of metal integral with the locking wheel 32. Surrounding the hub 132 is a sleeve 132x, which at its rear side has a hollow or tubular projection 133, radially arranged and containing a radially moving bolt 134, having teeth 135 at its inner end adapted to engage and disengage teeth 136, formed all around the internal hub 132. The sleeve 132, in addition to the tubular projection 133, has a toothed projection 137, Fig. 4, engaged by a toothed pinion 138, whichl latter is fastened upon the shaft 73, shown in dotted lines, Fig. 4, and whose radial position is determined through the link 71, by the position of the presser-foot. When the machine is at work upon thin leather, the presser-foot will have a lower, and the link 71 a higher position than when working upon thick leather, thus the actual position of thevexternal sleeve 132 and the bolt 134 is determined positively by the thickness of the work. Behind the bolt 134, is a. spring 139, pressing the bolt inward so as to cause the engagement of teeth 135 and 136, tliereby at such times fixing against revolution, the internal sleeve 132 and the lock Wheel 32. A portion of the bolt, 134, projects through a slot as shown. so as to contact with tne periphery of the cam plate 131, which oscillates with the take-up arm 31. Thus, a coperation is effected between the arm 31 and the bolt. ln the position shown in Figs. 2, 4, and 5, the cam plate 131 has forced the bolt outwardly, thereby unlocking the teeth 135, 136, so that the lock wheel 32 and hub 132 are free to revolve. -When the arm31 is raised, the cam 131` releases the bolt 134, permitting the teeth 135, 136, to engage, and thus positively holding the lock wheel 32 against movement.

The illustrated parts are so designed that `any change in position of the presser-foot owing to variations or-changes in'thickness of the sole will eHect an automaticl readjustment of` the depth of the stitch llne, so

that, ignoring the substantially uniform v6 if bottom thereof, this being shown accomplished by a. circumferential series of round holes bored directly through the wheel from flange to ila-nge, as shown, the bottom of such holes corresponding with the bottom of the V-groove, as indicated in Fig. 5. The interruptions thus afford such a hold Ior drag upon the thread that -the latter isincapable of slipping and lthe wheel thus effectually serves its purpose as a clamp.

The operation of the described thread mechanism is sim le. At each downward stroke of the combined take-up and measure arm 31, it eiciently takes up the thread, which is locked by wheel 32, and the thread is properly pulled to or into the work. As the arm 31 approaches its lowermost position, thecam 31 throws out the bolt 134, thus freeing the lock wheel, and the taking up of the thread ceases. This point maybe called the termination of the take-up movement of the arm 31. The remainder of the movement of arm 31 to the end o f its stroke may be called thevthread measuring movement, and during that movement, after ythe taking-up has ceased, a new quantity of thread is drawn from the thread supply, this being permitted because the lock wheel is now lreleased for rotation. It will be understood that the auxiliary take-'up 30 automatically comes into play at the beginning of the down-stroke of the main take-up,

' such auxiliary take-up yielding under the increasing resistance of spring 30a, so as to absorb the shock and avoid breaking the thread.

v I will now explain the'automatic readjustment 'of the stitch line depth, due toA changes in thickness of Work.

Suppose, for example, the machineV is at work attaching together a sole yhaving a thickness of .27 inch and a .10 inch welt, and thatithe line of interlocking stitches or loops is" being pulled .09 inch, downward from the upper surface, or one third of the thickness of the sole: With the machine so adjusted, if there is a change in the thickness of the work, due either to irregularities in one piece of leather, or variations in successive pieces, and supposing that a portion of sole having a thickness of .2 1 inch comes under the presser-foot, there will be an automatic readjustment as follows: The presser-foot descends .to the new thickness of face of the work.

` longer.

slightly later upon the bolt so that the release of the thread is effected lat a slightly later point of time. In other Words, the take-up vmovement of the arm 31 continues slightly further. Thereby the line of interlocking loops is drawn. less far downwardly, namely .07 inch into the sole, as the machine is designed. Thus the interlocking line is maintained always at the proportionate depth of one third the sole thickness'below the top I also provide means for effecting at will a manual adjustment of the relations of the described part, so that the operator may in advance set the machine to draw the stitch line any desired extent into the work. i

Specifically, it will be seen that this is` accomplished herein by an adjustment of the relative operative positions respectively of the part or cam 131, which is actuated by the arm 31, and the part or bolt 134, which eects the locking and unlocking of the thread clamp 32. Thus, throwing back the cam delays slightly the timing of the bolt operation so as to render later the cessation of take-up and commencement of thread measuring, thus pulling the stitch line farther linto the Work, and vice versa. The readjustment referred to may be done (see Figs. 1 and 4), by means'of a pinion 140, secured on arm 31 and engaging teeth `141 on cam plate 131. The nuts which secure pinion 140 may be loosened. the pinion slightly shifted and the nuts tightened,thus making the necessary adjustment. Such adjustment alters the relation between cam plate 131 and bolt 134` thus determining the dpoint at which the clamp wheel 32 is released and the take-up of the thread terminates. Such adjustment is adequate for all needs of the machine. To illustrate such adjustment, suppose the stitch line was desired to be drawn two-thirds instead of one third into the material of the sole. The taking up of the thread must continue slightly longer than before and this is effected by setting back the cam plate 121 by a left-hand rotation or adjustment and re-securing it. The result is that the cam contacts the holt 134 slightly later, thus causing the thread to be pulled slightly It is also obvious that with the described mechanisms, any readjustment of the depth of stitch line also automatically readjusts the amount of new thread measured off, thus preserving the proper relation of the several operations.

I have thus described a complete and operative sewing machine, of the form designed and adapted for sewing articles,'such as shoe or boot soles, and have described al1 130 of the parts thereof with especial reference to the novel features of construction, ar-Y rangement, design and combination.

It will be seen that the liereinbefore described machine attains advantages and objects hereinbefore recited and that the principles thereof are adaptable, not only for the specific purposes illustrated, but for other purposes in connection with sole sewing or other machines. It is further manifest that various of the parts, features, and combinations, may be indefinitely-modified in form or mode of operation, without departing from the principles of the invention, and in view thereof I do not wish to be limited to any specific features, arrangement-s, parts, or other details, excepting in so far as the same are referred to in the appended claims.

`What I claim and desire to secure by Letters `Patent is:

l. In a sewing machine, the combination of a moving combined thread measure and take-up instrument, a thread clamp between Said instrument and the thread supply, and a pair of coperating parts, the first, as a cam, rotated by said instrument, and the second, as a bolt, actuated by said first part to move radially for clamping and unclainping said clamp, whereby said instrument first takes up thread and then after a given point measures off a further supply.

Q. In a sewing machine, the combination of a swinging combined thread measure and take-up instrument, a thread clamp between said instrument and the thread supply, and a pair of cooperating parts, the first being a cam concentric wit-h and rotated by said instrument, and the second a follower actuated by said cam to move radially for clamping and unclainping said clamp, whereby said instrument first takes up the thread and then after a given point measures off a fur ther supply; together with means foi' ad-y justing said first part relatively to said instrument whereby the unclamping of the thread may be timed earlier or later.

In a sewing machine, the combination of a take-up arm swingable abolita given axis, a thread-clamp wheel adapted to be rotated by the pull of the thread under the action of the take-up arm whereby thread may be drawn in measured quantities from a supply, a device for locking said wheel to clamp the thread during a part of each stitch cycle, and a part or cam actuated by the take-up arm to unlock the wheel during the active stroke of said arm, whereby the thread is first taken up and then measured off.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination of a take-up arm swingable about a given axis, a thread-clamp wheel adapted to be rotated by the pull of the thread under the action of the take-up arm whereby thread may be drawn in measured quantities from a supply, a device for locking said wheel to clamp the thread during a part of each stitch cycle, and a part or cam actuated by the take-up arm to unlock the wheel during the active stroke of said arm, whereby the thread is first taken up and then measured olf; said wheel and cani being both conceit tric with the axis of take-up swinging.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination of atake-up arm swingable about a given aXis, a thread-clamp wheel adapted to be rotated by the pull of the thread under the action of the take-up arm whereby thread ymay bedrawn lin measured quantities from a supply, a device for locking said wheel to clamp the thread during a part of each stitch cycle, and a part or cam actuated by the take-up arm to unlock the wheel during the active stroke of said arm, whereby the thread is first taken up and then measured off; said wheel and cam being both concentric with the axis of take-up swinging and said cam and device arranged so that .the cam acts radially on said device for locking and unlocking the wheel.

' 6. Ina sewing machine the combination of a take-up fitted to swing about a given aXis and to carry the thread at its swinging end, means for automatically swinging saidV take-up to and fro during the stitching operations of the machine, a peripherally grooved thread wheel located concentrically to said axis of swinging of said take-up, said take-up being between said thread wheel and the stitching point, and means for effecting the unlocking of said thread wheel during the active stroke of the take-up.

7. In a sewing machine the combination of a swinging take-up, an oscillating shaft carrying said take-up, means for automatically oscillating said shaft to swing said take-up during the stitching operations of the machine, a tliread-claiiip-wlieel loosely surrounding said take-up shaft, and means for effecting the clamping or unclamping of said thread-clamp-wheel in harmony with 'the movements of the take-up, said means

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