US1188388A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

A/BATES. SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED FEB. l0. 19%3.

Patented June 27, 1916.

Muff

A. BATES.

SEWING MACHINE.

H APPLICATioN FILED FEB.10, |913. 19};.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Patented June 27, 1916.

ARTHUR BATES, or'LEIcEsTEa, ENGLAND, AssiGNon To UNITED' sHoE ivinciaiivraar',i

COMPANY, OF'PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A GORPORA'IIION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWiNGMACHiNE.

Application led February 10, 1913. Serial No. 747,414.

T all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ARTHUR BATES, a subject of the King of England, residing at Leicester, Leicestershire, England, have invented certain Improvements in Sewing Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is 'a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures. I

This invention relates to machines used in the manufacture of boots and shoes and more particularly to that type of machine `in jivhich a' curved needle is provided to effect the permanent stitching together of the sole and upper of turn shoes. An 'example of a sewing machine of this type is What is4 known in the trade as the Goodyear Welt and turn shoe sewing. machine and the stitch-forming devices of this machine are applicable with particular advantage to machines constructed in accordance with the piesent invention. t U

T he object of the present invention is the provision ofa sewing machine of the above j, provided with a proJection or button so that1S general type but which is so organized' asto be capable of sewing an unlasted shoe'upper permanently to a sole and which is adaptedl to be of very advantageous use in connection with turn shoes having soles of flexible material (such as felt).

Felt soled shoes as now made generallystructed according to this invention shoes of this kind have their unlasted uppers and soles, Without the use of a last, manipulated into a correct relationshipof their adjacent edges and' permanently-` sewn together at a single operation.

A feature of the present `invention is the provision of a. machine for securing an unlasted shoe upper, e. c., an uppei' olf the last, permanently to a sole and characterized `by a rotary or other horn adapted to support" one face of successive portions of thesole margin (the sole upper being outside' ln,.

Specification of Letters latent.'

,site the curved needlel so that the needle may projection in the Work will be produc'edff Ithe presser foot and the horn ivhich haiV if the vvork be a turn shoe) and a member ,u that coperates with the horn to hold thef-i ,qty marginal portion of the upper against the'. other face of the sole and infsuch relation ship to a preferably Work-feeding-or othe curved needle that the barbed point of 'thef said needle Will pierce through both .the ij margin of the upper and that surface only. of the sole that is adjacent thereto to per manently stitch them together.- The member poperati'ng with the horn. may consist of a presser foot, and accordin '65 to another feature of the invention, WhficliiA may or may not be. employed, the saidy -foot may be so formed as to co-act Withf-a corre spending part on the horn to cause a portion i o f the shoe bottom to be raised locally oppo penetrateboth upper and sole'vvithout mak ing too broad a seam. Conveniently, vthi presser foot may be of claivslike or bifur cated formatioiivso as to engage the Work atY points displaced at each side of the point-ff-` ivhere the end ofthe horn engages it,ai`itlv the said end of the liorn may be formed "or when the work is pressed. between tlieff presser foot and the horn a ridge, n iouiid'prL i through which the needle can enter andthe emerge near the point of entrance.

In accordance with a further feature o this machine the arrangement of the hor and its coperating member oi' presserfoot is such that they are separated to permit the' feed of the work. In the preferredcoi'istruction the horn is operatively coniiected i" with the presser foot and so correlated thatL when the horn is depressed the presser foot is lifted. This arrangement provides'thaty i the Work shall be freed more quickly and'l thoroughly for the purpose of feeding, and 9 for enabling a 'more ready n ianipulation'of'y the upper and sole into correctrelationship than is the ease when the presser foot alone' is moved. i i

I have herein' shown novel featuresfo'f l. invention concerned with the actuation of"v been devised jointly b v me and Alfred licliards and are therefore ,being claimed in another application tiled February '13,vv 191s, Serin No. 748,148. (f

rfhese and other features of the inventien will now berdescribed as embodied in the illustrated machine. It is to be understood, however that this embodiment is by way of illustration merely and not by way oit' limitation, since the invention could be embodied in other forms and the construction, disposition and operation of the parts could be varied without departing from the spirit thereof.

' In the said drawings: Figure 1 is a side view ot' the machine with parts in section, ot sullicirait of the stitch-forming inechanismot the well-known type ot Goodyear sewing machine to enable the invention to be understood; Fig. 2 is a detail plan of the shoeeengaging devices; and Fig. 3 is an enlarged view of the parts closely adjacent .to the shoe.

In the illustrated construction thed sewing -machine comprises a head 2 that supports .the usualv stitch-forming devices including a curved needle 3 and a looper 4 located above a curved horn 5 upon which the work is supported for the sewing operation.

The horn is shaped to enter a shoe and is mounted, preferably so as to be capable t of rotation, to bring diiterentparts of the 'to enable the work to be fed.

shoe into operative relationship with the sewing devices. Further, the horn is adapted to be depressed by connection with a treadle for the reception and removal o'l' work and, as will appear later herein, is automatically depressed to a lesser extent To this end the horn 5 isprovided with a. sleeve (l that is received within a bore in a bracket 7 projecting from the base of the head 2 and surrounds a supporting spindle 8 upon which it is capable of being rotated, for

which purpose a ball bearing 9 is provided between the lower end of the sleeve l and an enlargement 10 olf the spindle 8. Relative vertical movement between the spindle and the sleeve is prevented by the boss 11 of an arm 12 liked to the spindle S by a bolt 13, this boss engaging in a recess in the upper end oiu the sleeve. is of sullicient length to permit oli an up and down motion inthe brat-.kot 7 and is raised .and lowered by a toggle 1l, 15 the upper end ot the link 1l being connected with the spindle at 1G while the lower link 15 is centered at 17 in the bracket 7 and is in the form of a bell-crank lever the outwardly extending arm 1S of which is connected with a treadlc rod 20. A screw 21 threaded through the `trame forms an abutment for the central oint of the toggle and acts as an adjustable stop to regulate the height to which the horn will be raid, this raising being accomplished by a spring 19 that connects the arm 18 of the bellcrank lever with the frame and tends to maintain the toggle straightened. The

screw E21 is provided with a lock nut 22 to maintain it inthe position to which it has been adjusted.

From the foregoing it will be understood that the curved horn 5 is normally held in raised position, which is variable according to circumstances, by the spring 19 but that it can be lowered for the removal, insertion or manipulation of the work by the breaking of the toggle by lowering the rod 2() through the operation of a treadle to which the rod is connected.

il he horn is curved as aforesaid so. as to extend within the shoe and is providedat its upper end with a projecting button 25 that .toi-nis a support for the shoe sole. In the present construction the'button is eircular in plan and its upper surface is of spherical formation so as to raise a portion of the shoe bottoni into a mound. Coper- 85 ating with the projecting button 25 is a presser foot or clamping device 26 which is liiiurcated, as shown in Fig. E2, to form fingers 27, 2S, arched in a vertical plane, and which, by engaging the work, serve to press the upper and sole together and to deform the sole so as to provide a pro jection through which the curved needle 3 can penetrate The claw 27 under which the work first passes preferably is beveled in order to avoid marring the work and also to assist the passing of the work under. it when manipulated by the operator; and it may, it' desired, be shorter than its companion 28.

rlhe presser toot 26 is pivoted at 29 to the upstanding cars 30 0f a bracket 31 (see l? 2l secured to a projecting portion 32 ot' the head 2. An edge gage 33 for positioning the work is provided, and the flat 105 shank portion 34 of this gage extends under the bracket 31, being adjustably secured thereto by a thumb-screw 35 which passes through a slot in the portion 34C and screws into the said bracket. Extending under the presser foot is an enlargement 3G formed on the .ti-ont ot' the sha-nk portion 3% of the e, this enlargement serving as a means vtor determining the distance between. the line of stitches and the edge of the work and also asisting in positioning the upper in the desired relation to the sole immediately before the upper is secured thereto. rlhat side of the enlargement 36 which first engages the work, e., the right-hand side as viewed by the operator, is formed with an upstanding lip that abuts against the leading side ot' the presser foot, while another projection 38 extends upward between the fingers 27, Q8. as shown in Fig. 2.

It is to be understood that in the use of the machine constructed according to this invention for the manufacture of felt soled turn shoes the edge of the upper overlaps the edge oit' the sole and in this position they iso are afterward turned inside out.

embodiment of the invention the lpworkdis, fed'bytliefneedle 8 which is of theeurved type that in penetrating moves in the arc lthe main shaft;

are presented to the machine to be sewn and In this of a circle. For thus feeding the work the needle ycarrying lever 42 'is mounted 0n a bracket 43 depending from a slider 44 that` s adapted to be moved horizontally toward the left-hand side of the machine after the needle has penetrated the work to feed the work, suitable mechanism being provided to accomplish this movement.A To allow the" feeding movement of the work by the needle the khorn is lowered 'and this is effected by connections between the needleactuating mechanism and the horn-lowering device. These connections may compris a link 45 connected at one end to the lever 46 by which theneedle is oscillated through its are and at the other end to'an armv47 loosely mount; ed at 17 on the stud or spindle o n which is lower element 15 of the toggle. The lever 46 is'pivoted at 4S to the machine frame and carries al cam roll 49 that stands in a groove cut inthe side Vof a 'cam disk mounted 'on pa rtedv-to the lever 4G are communicated to the needle by a link 5() universally jointed at, .one end to the needle-carrying lever 42 andy at the other end to the lever 46. The universal joints permit the lateral movement ofthe needle to feed the work. The arm'47 has adjustably secured to it, by a screw and slot'connection, a plate 5 1 having `a laten" ally projecting tappet 52 Which operates on anextelision 53 of the arin18 of the bellcrank lever 15,18 `and sufficient lost ino-- v feedingof the work the connectionbetween the trea'dle rod 20 and the arm 18 ot the bell-crank lever is constituted by a pin 54' projecting from the latter that enters a slot in vthe treadle rod which is normally maintained raised by a spring that connectsit with a projection upon the frame. A Stud carried bythe treadlerod 2() lim'V its` its upward movement by contactingl with the said projection.V ln this embodiment of v tlv/invention in addition to the Ahorn-being lnwered the presser foot is raised while the y no1-k' is fed by the needle, and t-.ei'isequently l mnections are provided between the presser i :oi and the horn-lowering device. These .connections are arranged as follows :-The

aforementioned arm 1ithat is secured at one between 'the block 61 and the upper colla been raised. Anyv suitable devicefniay' be f provided to enable the height to which th `mounted-the bell-crank lever forming the" The movements vthus im- 1 'the horn the treadle is released, the toggle tween the end of the horn and the clawf'lik been depressed through the arm 12.,"lin`k' 'started and during' the progress of the stitching the work is fed bythe transverse 11110 by Letters Patentof the United `States'i last having, in combination, a curved needle 'the horn 'to clamp the marginal portion of Athe"upper against the outer face of tli idly supports at its other end an upright stud On this stud twoA collars -l59,'.6Oyare pinned at a distance apart, so as tolea'vv space between them in which is located.' I" block ($1 thatslides on the stud 58 and tha is' normally kept in Contact with the lowI collar (30 by a spring 62 whichis disposed 5f). The block G1 is connected by a linkt with the rear end of the presser fooi-,26'

An abutment G5 on the bracketlI is pro vided below the rear arm of the' presse lever so that when the presser is raised fron the workfor the purpose of. Afeeding thefso rear arm 'will rest on the abutment and the presser j foot will be held statinafr clear of the sewing devices, the spring 62! providing. for the fur-ther downward move menty of the horn after the, presser foot presser foot isA lifted to be varied', such 'for example as a 'screw threaded through rear arm of the presser'foot fand' adapted td engage theabutme'nt 65. i 1 jf;

The operation of the machine as far as Q concerns'the present invention no doubt will be understood from 4the 'foregoing' de' scription fof the different parts but'it'inay 5 be briefly recapitulatedl as followpst---llyie` operator depresses the 'treadle and thereb through the treadle -rod 20 and connec bell-crank lever -breaks the toggle c lowers the `horn, ready for the reception'flk 'if the work. After "this has been. placed upon is straightened 'and the work pressed`b end of the presser' foot which latter'ha 63 and other parts connecting the presse foot with the horn. j The machine is thenrv movement ofthe needle, the horn being' lr'iv-j A ered automatically: and the presser foot raised at each stitch-"through the loosel mounted ar'ni 47 andta'ppet.59J that com Aprises part of the connections between the needle-actuating lever 46 `and the horn-low-` ering device.` y f j A l l lflavi'ng fully described my inventio what 'I claim'as new and'desire to secure 1`. 'A 4machine* Afor securing -anl unlasted shoeupper pernianently `to a sole olf vth and voperating mechanism therefor, a Ar0- tary horn adapted .to extend within the sl'ioelz and support successive portions of `the sol" 'nun-gin, and a memberjthat coperates with 'sole and in `such relationship to the curved needle that the barbed point ofthe said needle will pierce through both the margin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent thereto to permanently stitch them together.

2. A machine for securing an unlasted shoe upper permanently to a sole off the last having, in combination, a curved needle and operating mechanism therefor, a horn adapted to extend within the shoe and support successive portions of the so-le margin and a member that cooperates with the horn to clamp the marginal portion of the upper against the outer face of the sole and in such relationship to the curved needle that the point of the said needle will pierce through both the margin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent thereto to permanently stitch them together, the tip of the horn and the member that coperates with it being so shaped Iand actu ated as to form on vthe surface of the` work a projection which intersects the path of the needle.

3. A. machine for securing an unlasted shoe upper permanently to a sole off the last having, in combination, a curved needle and operating mechanism therefor, a horn adaptedto extend within the shoe and support successive portions of the sole margin and a member that cooperates with the horn to clamp the marginal portion of the upper against the outer face of the sole and in such relationship to the curved needle that the point of the said needle will pierce through both the margin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent thereto to permanently stitch them together, the said member having two curved fingers or limbs and the horn being provided with a convex,A tip which forces the work between the said fingers or limbs to form the said projection.

4. In a machine for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and its sole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a horn, a clamping foot cooperating therewith to hold the marginal portion of the upper against the top face of the sole for the needle to pierce through both the margin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent thereto, said clamping foot having two fingers overlying the horn and between which the needle can move to feed the work, and an edge gage for the work arranged between the fingers and serving to control the line of stitching in the work.

5. In a machine for permanently sewing` togethera shoe upper and its sole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a horn, a

'clamping foot cooperating therewith to hold the marginal portion of the upper against the top face of the sole for the needle to pierce through both the margin ofthe @5 lupper and that surface only ofthe sole that is adjacent thereto, said clamping foot having two fingers overlying the horn and between which the needle can move to insert the stitch and to feed the work between the horn and-said foot, the finger under which the work first passes being beveled on its front end substantially as and for the purf pose described.

6. In a machine for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and its sole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a. horn, a clamping foot coperating therewith to hold the marginal portion of the upper against the top face of the sole for the needle to pierce through both the margin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent thereto, said clamping foot having two fingers overlying the horn and between which the needle can move to insert the stitch and to feed the work between the-horn and said. foot, said fingers being arched. in a vertical plane extending lengthwise of the fingers and the top of the horn being similarly curved substantially as' and for the purpose described.

7. In a machine for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and its sole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a horn against which the sole is held for the needle to pierce through both the margin of the upper and to the upper, said horn being provided at its upper end with a projecting button having an upper surface of sphei'lcal formatlon that constitutes the support for the sole and assists in lending the sole upwardly out of a plane at the stitching point.

In a machine for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and its sole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a horn to extend within the shoe and against which the sole is held for the needle to pierce through both the margin of the upper and the portion of the sole that is adjacent thereto, said horn being provided at its upper end with a projecting button having an upper surface of spherical formation that constitutes the support for the sole and assists in bending the sole upwardly out of a plane at the stitching point, and cooperating means pressing the upper against the top face of the sole adjacent to the horn button and constructed and arranged to depress the work at the needle entering point.

9. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a needle and its operating mechanism of a clamping foot having a fork or slot extending in the direction of the needle movement and a'work support having a projecting head shaped and arranged to force a portionof the stock 'up into the slot in the clamping foot and into position to be pierced by the needle. l

10. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a curved needle and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent MEE Bitti its operating mechanism of a clamping' foot having an opening through its stock engaging face, and a horn adaptedto cause a portion ofthe shoe bottom to be raised locally into said opening at a point in the path of the curved needle so that the needle may penetrate both the upper and the sole and emerge near the point of entrance.

- l1. In a machine ofthe class described, the combination witha curved needle and its operating mechanism including means to act-uate the needle to feed the work, of a clamping foot of claw-like formation hav-A ing the bifurcations extending in the directionrofthe piercing movement of the needle and separated far-enough to allow the needle l 4to feed between them, and a work support formed to press the stock up between the bifurcations and produce a mound or projection ni the work through which the needle willenter and then emerge on the same side p of the work to produce a narrow seam.

12. In apparatus for relatively positioning and permanently sewing together an unlasted shoe upper and its sole, a needle and its operating mechanism and associated v parts to form and set stitches through the margin of the upper and that surface only' of the sole that is adjacent thereto, a horn to support lthe inner side of'the sole, and an edge gage to position the sole laterally with relation to the needle path and between which gage and the edge of the sole the upper is positioned across the path of the needle.

13. In apparatus for relatively positionl ing and periminently sewing together an unlasted shoe upper and its solo, a needle and its operating mechanism and asso-.iated parts to forni and set stitches through the margin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent thereto, a. horn to support the inner side ofthe sole and poneedle 14. In apparatus for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and its sole, a needle and its operating mechanism, means which engage the inner face of the sole and is formed to raise the sole immediately inside the needle entering pointrelatively to the s ole at the needle entering point, and inf gers extending lengthwise of the needle movement 'and arched on.their lower sides to depress the stock at either side of the needle and at the needle entering and emerging sides of said portion of the `sole raised by the sole supporting means.

l5. In an apparatus for'permaiieiitly*sewing together a shoe upper and its sole, a curved needle and its operating mechanism and associated stitch forming and setting' parts, combined with a rotary horn arranged to engage the inner side of the sole while permitting movement of the work with relation to the horn and support the work relatively to the piithof the curved needle for the sewing operation through the margin of the upper and into and out of the upper JFace of the sole, substantially as described. i

Iii'testiinony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. e

ARTHUR Barns.

VVitnes'ses: e

Fimmiaicn VVILLTAM lVomn, lViLLin VViiusoN. l i l

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