US115180A - Improvement in tailors measures - Google Patents

Description

UNIT STATES I PATENT j OFFIC lTHAMAR nu nors, or BROOKLYN, new roan.

IMFROVEMENT m TAILORS MEASURES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 115,180, dated May 23, 1871.

C I, ITHA MAR DU' BoIs, of Brooklyn, Kings county State of New York, have invented a Measunng-Instrument for Drafting and FittingGarments, of which the following is a specification, illustratedby drawing and referred to herein by figures and letters marked thereon.-

I f The object of my invention is to make positivemeasure of and aboutthe neck and shoulders of the human form, so that the same may be used n the fitting of garments thereto without leavlng so muchto the judgment of the cutter as hashitherto been the case.

' there is both a slope and a curve, which not only wary indifferent persons, but also in the two shoulders of the same person. This slope is not only downward from the point named-'- at the base of the neck--but is also forward or backward, in difierent degrees, from -ahori zontal line drawn through the neck where the shoulder-blades are conneotedwith it. Again, the shoulders are of different heights inthe same individual- ;;It. for thepurposeof takingmeasuresof these varying forms and differences that my invention is to be used.

Description of the Drawing. Figure 1 is atop view of the instrument in all its principal parts.

A A is a graduated bar of tenor twelve inches in length. 0 G is a slot in the center of A, which allows the traverse of an upright graduated rule, D, seen in side view in Fig. 2, within it. E is a block attached to the end of the rule or bar A, and vibrating on it by means of the pin or screw or, as seen in the dotted lines in Fig. 2. B B are metal rods fixed firmly to the block E and at right angles with it, the position of these rods being seen also in the side view of Fig. 2. G is a curved slip or hook of metal moving in a groove cut in the upper face of the blockE, and held in position by the screw H. v I is a flexible or graduated tape-measure, which passes through the end freely through :the blO of the block E,'as seen at c, Fig. 2, or otherwise attached to it. E is another block, provided with rods B B this block sliding on ,the bar A and confined at any desirable point by the screw J. K K is another graduated bar,-one endof which lies on" the rod B and the other end supported on the: rodB by means of a graduated upright, L, seen in side view,Fig. 3, one edge of which isnotched or toothed, so that it may be raised or lowered on the rod B until the plumb-rod M, Fig. 3,p0intin g to the zero-mark 0 on K K, shows that this latter is in a level position. Theupright piece D is seen in side view, Fig. 2.- It is graduated from its under face, measuring upward.

Fig. 4 shows the under ,face of the block E,

andFig. 5 shows the rear face of the same,

showing graduations each way from a zero point. I This point, when the rods B B are at right angles with A, will be over a like zeropoint, seen on it in Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 shows the under side of the sliding block F, g being a hollow which fits on the outer crown of the shoulder.

In Fig. 2 the piece N N, which cannot be seen in Fig. 1, is a thin elastic piece of metal, which may also be graduated on one or both its faces,i-(same as the bar A,) and is affixed E by the same screw whichat to the block 7 caches the bar A. The other end of N slides The graduated npright D clasps the'pie'ce NfN,sliding upon it with sufficient friction to remain where it is desirably placed in taking the-measure.

P, Figs. 1 and2, represents ahookattached to the block F, its office being to receive the two clasps or hooks of an elasticlstrap, Q, to

be seen in Fig. 7, and will be further described.

It is to be remarked, and will be seen from inspection of the drawing, that B B are so placed in the block E that when its beveled face, as seen in Fig. 2, is brought up closely to the neck these rods shall represent the point of junction between the highest point of the shoulder-blade and the neck, the shoulderblade lying between the sockets in which the rods B B are inserted. It will also be noticed in Fig. 4. that the point of the block E, where it comes against the neck, is slightly curved so as to facilitate the closefittin g of this block to the neck.

Fig. 7 will show the method of applying and using theinstrument and the operation of the.

various parts. The hook G is slipped on the band of the shirt and the block E placed firmly upon the highest point of the shoulder at the neck, the shoulder-blade lying between the sockets which hold the rods B B care being taken that the under side of the instrument lies closely upon the shoulder. The hook G is then fastened by the screw H. An elastic strap, 0 0, provided with a hook at each end is passed under the arm opposite to the side where the measure is being taken and hooked to the neck of the screw E. This confines the instrument closely to the neck and shoulder at this point. The sliding block F is then accurately adjusted, with its hollow directly on the outer crown of the shoulder, and secured by the screw J. Another elastic strap, Q, made in the same manner as O O, is passed directly under this arm and hooked to P, so that the instrument is now confined at both of the highest points of the shoulder. The rule K K is laid on the rod B at one end, and the other attached to the rod B and moved up and down upon it by means of the toothed upright L till the plumbbob M, by pointing at the zero-mark, denotes that the rule L is level. The flexible or tape measure is then passed around the neck, determining its size. The upright piece D is then moved in the slot in the rule A and along the elastic rule N N until it is directly over that part of the shoulder which is most curved or hollowed out. D is then pressed downward till the rule N lies alongthis curve, and the graduation of D at its intersection with the under face of the bar, A is noted, as also the position of D on the graduations. of. A. A record also is made of the graduations on the rear of the block E in their relations to the zero-point 0 on bar A. The length of the line from the rod B to the block 1* is indicated on the graduations of the bar A; the length of the line from the crown of the shoulder to the junction of the base of the neck and shoulder-blade is given on the rule K K, counting its graduations from its upright L to the point where it lies upon and intersects the rod B and the height of the line from the lower face of the rule K K to the base of the neck is given by the graduations on the upright L to where it is attached to the rod B To sum up, I have (taking the junction of the shoulder-blade as the starting-point) the measures in a right line from the base of the neck to the crown of the shoulder, the depth and position on this line of the curve between the two points named, the length of the base-line on a level from the crown of the shoulder to where the slope of the back commences toward the base of the neck, and the height of 7 this slope from the base-line to the base of the neck, as well, also, the size of the neck and the angle of the pitch of the shoulder, either forward or backward, of the point where the shoulder-blade meets the base of the neck. The instrument applied to the other shoulder in the same manner and the measurements noted and compared with those first taken will show the difference between them, and the garment be drafted to meet these differences.

I have described that form and construction of the instrument which I consider best, but it is obvious that changes of the detail can be made without varying the principle; for instance, a level on the rule K K may be sub-, stituted for the plumb-bob, and a level may be placed transversely on the bar A or the block F to secure the horizontal position of the rods 15 and B and the notched upright may be attached by a slide and graduating-screw to the rod B but in practice I have found the form described to be simple, effective, and easily managed.

I do not claim, broadly, the taking measurement of the human form by means of graduated rules, nor the use of a plumb line or level in connection therewith, as in various forms they have been used many years but What I do claim as novel and useful is- 1. The vibrating block E and the sliding block F, provided, respectively, with the rods B B and B B in combination with the slotted rule or graduated bar A, the elastic piece N, and upright rule D.

2. The rule K, with its toothed graduated upright rule L, combined with the plumb line and bob M, and with the blocks E and F and rods B and B, the upper rule D, and elastic rule N, all made and operating substantially as set forth and described, or their mechanical equivalents.

ITHAMAR DU BOIS. Witnesses:

WM. PRATT, WM. S. DU Bors.

Images