US1151513A

US1151513A - Chain-stitch sewing-machine.

Info

Publication number: US1151513A
Application number: US41355308A
Authority: US
Inventors: Albert H De Voe
Original assignee: Singer Co
Current assignee: Singer Co
Priority date: 1908-01-31
Filing date: 1908-01-31
Publication date: 1915-08-24
Anticipated expiration: 1932-08-24

Description

A. H. DE voE CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED .IAN-31| 1908. I 1,151,513. Patented Aug. 24,'1915.:

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IIIII `l 1 75' 76 y' l v h 87 37 I 89 J6 176 7 A. H. DE VUE. CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINE.

A I APPLICATION FILED )ANAS-I. 1908- I 1,151.513. Patented Aug. 24, 19152 4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

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CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINE l 155 idf @534i The character of the movement which I 'pi-eter to give to the looper is one of reciprocation in. a slightly curved patli substantially-upon the. needle-loop seizing side of the needle but extending from a point in advance ot' the needle path forwardly in an iiiitially rather abrupt curvein the general direction of feed of the fabric and at-a slight inclination thereto toward the looppresenting side of the needle, and the loopseizing movements of the looper are preter- .ably derived from looper-actuating mecha- -iiisni constituting a modification ot that of the wellknown Singer No. single-chainstitcli' "iiiacliine represented in the 1United Statespatentl to P. Diehl and lV. R. Honghton, No. 579,223, dated March 23, 189i', while the side-wise looper movements for insuring the seizure ot' the lower thread are derived from alink connection between a crank-arm upon the looper roc t-shaft and a fixed stud carried by the machine frame. As in the patent referred to, the looper-actuating 'mechanism' comprises practically a combina- `tion ottwo pairs of toggle-levers through .whicli, arranged in successive order, the

louper derives its rocking movements from the main-shait, the efiect of which is to produce rapid operative movements and an intermediate dwell of the looper to hold a' thread-loop distcndcd for the subsequent descent of the needle through the same. The present toggle mechanism differsfron'i that of said prior patent in that. whereas the former construction includes one toggle in which'thc pivotal connection ot' the coni-y ponent members crosses an imaginary line Joining the fulcra ot their opposite ends. and

the pivotal connection of the members of thesecond toggle approaches but does not cross such imaginary connecting line between their opposite ends, according to the presentimprovement both togglcs are alike, in that the pivotal connection ot their coinponeiit members crosses the imaginary line joining the tulcra of their opposite ends,

l and the toggles are connected in such relation that the looper receives a still longer dwell than that produced by the looperactuating mechanism ot' the earlier construction.

The present invention includes, iii-addition to the features above mentione( certain others'to be hereinafter described and pointed out in the appended claims.

taken on the line .1: .c of Fig. 2, looking rearwardly, and Fig. (i a similar' view upon the same section .line but looking forwardly.`

-the needle in diiierent stages of the stitchforming operation. Fig. 11 is a perspective View of the stitch-forming devices. Fig, 12 a perspective view oi the spreadersA acting in conjunction with the loopers. and Fig. 13

, a detached elevation of the lower-thread nipping device. Fig. lil is a perspective view oi one of the thread-nipping members; Fig. 14 is an enlarged iwrspcctive view of one of the loopers. and Fig. 15 is a plan of the same showing thc manner ot its initial engagement ot' thc looper-thread. Fig. 1G is a perspia-tive view otl the throat-plate.

Fig4 li' is a perspective view of the' lower side oi the feed-dog. showing the threadguide ingersattached thereto. Fig. 1S is a sectional elevation and Fig. 1f) a plan of the slack-controller for the needle-thread'.

The machine is Aconstructed with a trame comprising the usual hed-plate 1 and overlianging bracket-arm L in which is iournaled the main-shaft 3 having at its rearward end the balance-whwl .land at its forward end the crank-disk 5 carrying thc crank-pin connected b v means ot' the link 7 with the lateral stud Q carried by thc collar 9 fixed upon `the needle-bar l() which is iournaled in suitiiblc bushings in the forward portion ot the' bracket-alan and receives through such connections with the main-shaft its usual reciprocating movements. As herein shown. the needle-bar is provided with a multiple needle-clamp l1 having sockets tol receive the shanks ol the needles 12 which are secured therein bv means of'the fastening-screws 1? beneath which are the usual thrciul-gui'ding holes 1i through which theneedle-threads u are led to their respective needles. .\s herein shown, the needles are spaced at varying distances apart.

As represented herein` the under side of the bed-plate is provided with fixed vbearing lugs 15 and a movable bearing lug 16 which, with its slotted foot 17 secured to the bed-l'ilate intermediate the ways 19 by means of the screws 1S, forms an adjustable bracket. the bearing lugs 15 and 1.6 receiving and carrying the longitudinally arranged looper rock-shaft S20.

'The rock-shaft 20 is provided at its rearward end intermediate the bearing lugs 15 witlna fixed collar 2l having a lateral crankses . arm terminating in a. ball 22 embraced by the strap 23 of a short link 24 provided at its otherl extremity with a ball 25 which is in turn embraced by a strap 2G at the lower end of a forwardly inclined vertically adboss 28 upon the iinder side of-the bed-plate. The collar 21 is providedv with a second upwardly'extending crank-arm 29 carrying a lo ball-crank-pin 30 embraced by a strap 31 at ,one end of a link 32 having its opposite end embraced by the forked lower end of an upwardly extending link33 which is in turn embraced by the forked laterally extending 15 rocking arm 34 with ixed fulcrum-pin 34",

" sueh'members being connected-together by means of the common pivotal pin 35. The link 33 is forked at its upper end to embrace the lateral arm 37 of a bellcranklever to4 o which it is attached by means of a pivotal pin 36, the bellcrank lever having a fixed extending arm '39. The arm 39 is pivotally 2Q. connected lby means of a pin 4() with the y' link-42 'by means' of the common pivotal pin 4.5 and having at its upper end the strap y 46 ,to embracethe actuating crank 47 upon t@ fromthe crank 47 .of the main-shaft throughy the main-shaft 3. As will be readily seen` the links 41 and l42-constitute a toggle which is actuated f ,the pitman 44, while the link-members 32 fand v34 constitute alsecond toggle deriving its actuations from the first-mentioned togv.g'le through the bellcrank 37 39 and' link 33'and imparting rocking movements to the looper-shaft 20 through the pivotal connectionA of the link y32 with thecrank-arm 29 ofgthe ixed collar 21. i

""'fPBeferring particularly to Fig. 8, it will Pbe observedthat the lug 27 constitutes av `thrust member against which 'the link 24 acts -in the vertical movements ol the crankpin 22 mounted upon the rock-shaft to cause the latter to .have a slight endwise recipro- 5 catory movement as it oscillates through the action of its double toggle connection with the actuating crank 4(3ot the' inain-sl'iaft.

rl`lie looper rock-shaft carries upon its forward end the looper-earrier, herein shown i0 comprising a sleeve 4S fixed thereon liv means of la set-screw 49 and provided with an -upwardly extending arm or plate 50 terminatiiig in a cross-liar 51 formed with an angular groove or channel. 52 having a fiat fbottoin parallel with the looper-shaft and justable screw-stud 27 depending from a' `to a suitable inclined seat of the cross-liar channel and secured thereto by means ot fastening screws 54 is a cap extending forwardlytoward the lip 53 so as to nearly close the top of the channel and provide in its edge adjacent the lip 53 with a series of spaced open slots adapted each toreceive the shank portion 56 of a looper having enlarged lower end 57 with an offset 58 extending beneath the lip 53 of the clamp. The Acap constitutesrtlie removable member of the clamp, serving to removably secure the base of the looper-shank lirmly in place. while its several slots securely maintain the loopersin fixed spaced relation each to the others and to thesupporting rocky shaft. fulcrum afforded by a pin 38' mounted within the bracket-arm and having an upwardlyY A As represented in Figs. 14 and 15, each looper is provided with a blade having conve'rgent

Hattened sides

59 and 60, the former extending nearly straight to the point of the needle-loop seizing beak 61,v while the latter i's bulged outwardly intermediatetlie shank and the beak 61. The top of the looper-blade is formed with a flattened portion/62 over which projects from the for,

ward extremity the backwardlv extending barb or beard 63 which is both upwardly and laterallyy inclined in the direction of the portion 60. .Between lthe open throat of the barb (S3 and the point of the beak 61, upon the same side as the flattened portion l50, is a laterall groove 64 adapted to receive the lower thread presented for seizure by the looper, as'represented in Fig. 15` andas will be hereinafter more fullv described.

Attached to the bottom of the cross-bar 51, by means of screhvs 65 are thread-guiding arms 66 corresponding in number with the loopers' and each provided at its outer end with-a self-threading eye 67 having its thread-engaging end disposed below and upon the opposite side of its respective looper from the needle-path, whereby the'looper thread ledjthrough the same upwardly through the needle-hole- 68 in the throatplate 69 may cross the path of movement'of the barb ($3 ot' the looper to insure the engagement of the lm/ver thread in the retraction of the looper in withdrawing from the loop of upper or needle-thread` as represented particularly in Figs. 11 and V15.

As represented herein. the looper-carrier plate 5() is provided with a, recess in which is secured bv means of a fastening screw 70 the shank 71 of a double-armed thread controlling member of which one arm 72 carries a laterally extending .take-up bar 73 having verticalnotches in its opposite ends entered by the down-turned extremities of a transverse guard wire 74, a threadingspace being Aent to provided intermediate the down-turned lends oi' the guard Wire and the notches in the bar 73 for the easy introduction of the threads while locking them against accidental release in the operation of the mechanism. The second arm 75 of the said two-armed member is also provided with a transverse threaden gaging bar 76 having upturned ends to confine the under threads led over the same from the source of lower-thread Supply to the looper-mechanism, for which it serves as a pull-off.

Intermediate the pull-of and take-up

bars

70 and 73, respectively, is disposed the thread-clamp or nippel', herein represented as adapted for engaging independently a plurality of lower threads. The thread nipping device is shown herein comprising a pair of su} )porting arms 77 each secured by means of a fastening screw 78 upon the bottom of the thread-cavity 79 formed in the top of the bed-'plate and extending along the *forward edge of the same, each of such supnorting arms carrving, at its outer end a block 80 forming the upper member or jaw of a threai'l-clamp. Each of the blocks'SO is provided at the thinner opposite ends With vertical tins S1 entering the thread-slots 82 in the ends ofthe reflexly bent spring clamping-plate 33 having' its lower member 83X hung from the block S0 by means of a` pin 84 passing through said block with its head disposed within a countersink 86 in the upper portion of the block (Fig. 9). As represented in Fig. 13, the adjacent faces of the clamping

members

80 and 83 are bevcled, at 'the ends'to admit of threading more freely. and the fins S1 are by preference correspondingly beveled at theirlower ends for a like purpose, the threzu'lingslots S2) of the plates S3 being sutliciently wide to y reely admit the looper threads betweent ieir edges and the iins S1 while being locked between the members S0 and S3 bv such fins. As will be observed. the sustaining pin 84 servesto maintain the looper-threads separated as thev pass between the clamping members 8O and S3.

The intermittent action of the movable clamping member S3 upon the lower threads is produced by the engagement upon their yielding lower portions 83X of the upwardly extending points of the screws 87 tapped at intervals through the cross-barA 88 of a rocklever S9 fulcrumed intermediate its ends at 90 upon the bearing lug 16 and having at its opposite end a slot 91 to receive a lateral pin 92 carried b v the feed-lifting bar 93 upon the end of the rock-shaft 9-1 which has' at its rearward end the usual lateral arm 95.

having a pitman connection 9G with the` feeddifting crank 97 of the main-shaft 3.

As represented in the United States pat? llf'lllb, No. 863,533. dated August ward end by .means of thepin 99 to the feedH rocker arms 100 extending upwardly from the rock-shaft 101, is supported near its forward end by a link-rod'102 having its opposite ends seated in sockets provided therefor, respectively, in the members 93 and 9S, and maintained yieldingly in such relation bv means of the connecting spring 103. The feed-bar carries the feed-dog 104: having the usual serrated feeding surfaces entering the feed apertures 69X in thethroat-plate G9 to engage the lower face of the fabric. The feed rock-shaftvlOl is provided with the lat eral crank-arm 105 pivotally connected with. the lower end of the link-bar 100 forked at its upper end to vembrace the slide-block 107 vhtted to the feed-actuating eccentric 10S` the bar 106 being fulcrumed at 109 upon lthe free end of a link 110 which is in -turn`ful crumed at 1'11 upon the inner arm of the feed adjusting bellcrank lever112 common to a wellknown style of Singer sewing machine. It will be observed'that, while the feed-dog is in lowered or inoperative position, the lifting bar 93 acts through the rocklever89 to maintain the thread-clamp closed, and that the thread-clamp is temporarily opened to permit the free passage of the under-thread only during the action of the feed-dog to advance the material.

As will be observed from a reference to the drawings, the lower sidfof the feed-dog beneath its feeding surfacesisnotched to form a seat for a multiple thread-guiding plate 113 secured thereto by means of fastening screws 114` and provided with a seriesi of spaced forwardly projecting guide-fingers *i 115 each disposed upon the needle-loop presenting side of the needle-path and slightly below the needle-hole. in 'order that. the lead of the lower threads between the guide-eyes .G7 andthe needle-hole 68 may be at such an inclination as to vinsure the seizure of such thread bythe point'of the barb 63.

Journaled in the bearing lug 16 above the looper rock-shaft 20 for endwise reciprocation, is a spreader rod 116 having sen cured upon its rearward end a depending arm 1 17 forked at its lower end to embrace a grooved collar 118 secured byqneans'of aY set-screw 119 upon the looper rock-shaft 20. Y

The rod 116 carries at itsA forward end an "upwardly extending arm 120 which carries which are secured the corthe lateral movements ofthe loopers, where- ,by the spreaders coperate with the loopers in a man-ner to be hereinafter described in spreadingy both the upper and under thread- 's logies. 1

,he pla'tfeO-of the loopen-carrier is pr'o-v ',Vided nearithe sleeve 48 with oppositelyl 'projectingthread-guiding pins 124 formed inf theirontet ends with notches which are i substantially radial in relation to the shaft 20, tovreceive the thinner pins 125 projecting from the sleeve 48 and entering the outer 'ends of such notches by which they are 'loosely embraced with sufficient clearance to l permit the entrance of the lower threads b in threading While retaining the same securely'locked" therein in the .operation of .the machine. Each of the fastening screws 78 is utilized in-securing in position upon the foot of the supportingarm 77 a, pair of guide-eyes 126 at the forward end of the wthread-cavity or channel 7 9 in Ithe rearward end of which is located. a thread-guide having a foot portion 127 with an upturned lip 128 formed with guide-eyes 129 into which the threads are threaded through slits 130 extending into the same from the upper edge of the said lip.' Upon the bed-plate at the -rearward end of the channel 79 is secured a similar thread-guide 131 formed with eyes 132 entered by threading slits 133. The thread-cavity or channel 79 is closed atthe top bymeans of a cover-plate 134 connected to the front edge of the bed-plate by means ,of the hinges 135.

Upon the needle-bar is.4 adjustably secured by means of a set-sci ew 136 a collar 137 formed with a lateral take-up arm 13S having a thread-slot 139 to receive thencedie-threads from the series of thread-eyes 140 carried -by the bracket 141 whose foot is formed with a slot 142 entered by the fastening screw 143 to permit ot its vertical adjustment upon the bracket-arm 2.

'At the rearward end of the bracl Iet arm is secured yby means oi' the fastening screws 144, a bracket-145 carrying the oppositely extending threaded pins -146 to each -of which is applied a pair oi' tension-disks 147 and a spring 148 with a nut 149 for main-- tainingT the pressure'ofthe spring upon the outer tension-disk. Adjacent the 'bracket 145 is ya controller-plate 150'containing a u series of cylindrical sockets to each of' which is fitted a thread-engaging plunger A whose stem 153 passes through said socket and carries at its lower end a stopcollar 154. The stem ofeach plunger is surrounded. by a spring 155 interposed be- 50 tween -the bottom of the plunger and the -bottom ot its socket, whereby the plungerl is normally maintained yieldingly inraised position, as indicated in F ig. 18. Each of the plunger-s 152 is formed with longitudinal diamctrically arranged grooves to re- 'the production of thefirst stitch.

ceive the adjacent edges of a series ot' flat guide-fingers I156 embracing the plungers i and secured by means of fastening screws 157 within suitable slots in the upper portion of the plate 150. At opposite sides of the controller-plate 150 are adjustably secured by lmeans of screws lthe

parallel guideplates

159 and 160 each provided with a series of thread-guiding slits 161 extending upwardly from its lower edge and corresponding in number with theaplungers 152 of the thread-coitroller.

Inthe'use of the machine as fitted with four needles and four' loopers for the production of four parallel double-chain-stitch seams, the four needle-threads are drawn from their respective sources of thread supply, and led each through one-'of the pairs of tension disks 147, thence through a ,guideslit 161`of the thread-guidev159, thence above 85 one of the controller plungers 152 intermediate the pair of guide-fingers 156, through -one of the guide-slots 161 of the guide 160 to one of the guide-eyes 140 from which it is passed through the thread-slot 139 of the 90 take-up arm` 138 and thence downwardly through one of the guide-holes 14 of the needleclamp to the eye'of one of the needles 12.l The four looper-threadsvare similarlyled from theirl sources of supply 95.

each through its respective eye in the guide 131, thence through the corresponding eye of the guide 128.to the guide-eye 126 at` the'forward end of the thread-cavity 79, whence it is passed over the pull-olf bar '160 7 6, through one side ofits respective threadclainp, over one of the take-up bars 73, and under the corresponding guide bar 124, througlifthe-guide 67, to the needlehole 68 in` the throat-plate 69, through 105 which it emerges, as represented in Fig. 11. To facilitate 'the threading of the lower threads, the forward portion ofthe throat-plate is provided with a series of threading slits '63X each leading from its ,110 front edge into one of the needle` holes, so that, .upon the withdrawal of the bed-plate slide 162 preparatory to the above ldescribed threading r operation, the passing of the looper-threads from the guide-eyes 67 up- 115 wardly through the, bed-'platev openingA in advance of the throat-plate enables the operator to readily pass the same through the threading slits 68 into their respective needie-holes 68 Ito maintain the proper lead of 120 the lower thread for seizure by the looper in To provide convenient access for passing 'the lower threads `from the guide-member at the bas/e of the bracket-arm to the looper mechanism, 1 the cover-plate 134 is raisedvas indicated in Fig. 10. n i ,Y

The cover-plate V134 having beenshut `to, close the thread-cavity 79, andthe opening above the lcoper mechanism closed bythe looper lis much greater in proportion to its distance vfrom the needle-hole, so that vthe tendencybof the thread-eye 67 in its advance position is to lay the portion of under thread extending frnr the' same. tothe needle-hole in the groove 64 extending between the looper point 61 and the throat of the barb 63; and this tendegcy is mate- A riall'y increased by the employment of the thread-guiding fingers 115 carried by .the feed-dog, which are located still more closely to the looper than the lower end of the needle- .holes 68, and Athus increasev the inclination of the lower L"thread in relation to the path of movement of the looper.

v One of 'the advantages derived from the present improvement, which 4is -of special importance 1n connection with high-speedmachines, is theshortstroke of the needlebar permitting the employment'of a short needle. This is dueto the prompt release of the upper and lower thread loops by the looper and. their immediate drawing up toV the under face of the material, whereby the needle is enabled to descend without the close wrapping around it of previously formed and enchaige'd thread-loops, as in ldouble.chain-stitch machines heretofore constructed, necessitating a material rise of .the needle to partially strip such' enwrapped thread-loops bycontact with the under face of the fabric to permit the throwing out of the new loop of upper-thread confined to the blade of the needle by such previously formed and enchained threadloops.

As w11] be observed, particularly by refer-i ence to Fig. I4, the bulge of the looperblade somewhat rearward of the upperthread loopseizing point and substantially beneath,` the barb or beard affording the lower-thread loop-seizing beak, gives a taper form to the looper-blade which, in the return y movement constituting Vthe second stage of the excursion of the looper from initial retracted position forwardly and backwardly -to the same position constitutes an upperthread loopdetaining portion which insures the drawing of the needle-loop backwardly upon the point of the spreaderl todistend the same sufficientlyfto obviate any liability of the catching of such upper-thread loop by theI backwardly extending v'barb or lower-thread loop-seizing beak in the .1 ithdrawal ofthe looper-blade from such distended upperthread loop.

A's willbe observed from the drawings;

' in its retracted position, the throat of the i .lower-thread loop-seizing beak 63 of the Y)such loop;'while the sdewise' looper is almost directly in front of the needle-path, in order'that the lead ofthe lower-thread loop held by it in'such'position may be irectijtT boleto enable the needle to descend through vmovable part of the machine, it is desirable that they should be carried by the feedingvthe special p'artsl required.

in advance of the needle-A movement ofthe looper in its advance to seize a needle-thread loop is intended to insure the proper presentation of the lower thread leading from the thread-guiding eye 67 under the thread-guard finger115 to the needle-hole 68 across the blade of the looper t so as'to bev deflected slightly by the looper barb' m its advance to vcause it to snap under the point of the same into the lateral groovel i 4 64 for engagement with such barb on the re# turn of the looper in completing its excursion from initial retracted position. y vWhile it is not essential that the threadguard fingers should be mounted upon a fi member, as the latter is lowered at the time the lower-thread loop-seizing beak seizesa bight of lower thread, whereby the threa'dguard deflects the lower-.thread leadingto 18H the needle-hole to its lowestl positionto insure the lead of the lower thread across*f the L loo er path for such operation.v

he machine as above described is readily adapted for slmultaneous production of thestationaryV parts is of course necessary seams of different number and spacing by 'the mere substitution of different threadl handling devices, -including needle-clamps and looper-clamps. No changewhatever in in' the application of needle-clamps accom- .modating differ-cpt numbers of needles, but

ih order to obiate any unnecessary overang of the forward end of the looper rock- 1aft,-while providingfor the application iereto of looper-carriers of different4 lengths, the forward l'ooper shaft-bearing bracket is made longitudinally adjustable,

.so that it maybe shifted to accommodate any looper-carrier of a given length. While this adaptation of the machinefor different numbers and spacings of needles and loopers is not particularly intended to provide the operator with means of adjustment of the gage of the machine, it is of material advantage in the original fitting of the machine, as a.single frame may be used for all gages and i numbers "ofi needles and loopers by i proper selection and application thereto of From the foregoing description, seen that the 'present improvement is susceptible of modification of`the forni and 4arrangementof the several operative 'parts -it win be formedptwith a lower-thread seiaing Ycijjirocating needle and an adjacent throat and coperating withA Said needle and actuating means therefor to cause it to seize a lower thread, to pass loops., thereof through thread loops presented byY the needle, and to disengage itself fromthe lower thread preparatory to seizure of each.

upper-thread loop.

2. In a sewing machine, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a recarryingan upper thread, actuating means for said needle, a non-threaded looper coperating with said needle and formed with an under-thread seizing beak and an adjacent throat, a`

thread-guide through which the under thread is led across the looper-path to the lower face of the work, and actuating means whereby said looper is caused to enter each thread-loop presentedby the needle and carry through the saine a looper-loop and to release the latter before thel succeeding seizure of the lower thread.

3. In a sewing machine, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocatingv needle carrying -an upper thread, actuating means for said needle, a non-threaded looper coperating with said needle and formed with an under-thread seizing beak and an adjacent permanently 4. In a sewing machine,- a work-support, stitch-'forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle, carrying an -upper tlisead, actuating means forse-id needle, a

reciprocating non-threaded looper' copevrat-v ing with said needle andv formed upon thev side adjacent the work-support with an under-thread seizing beak and an adjacent permanently open throatha threadguide through which the under thread is led l across the looper-path and intermediate the latter and the work-support totheglower face of the work, and 4actuating`means whereby said looper is caused to cross the .needle-path at one point only and to enter each thi'ead-loop presented by the.-`1needle and carry through the same a lower-thread loop. I i 5. In a sewing machine, a work-support,- .l

comprising 'alf i'ecijwocating needle carrying `an 1ipper.

stitch-forming mechanism thread, actuating,r means for said needle,-l a, thread-guide through which lan under thread is led to the work, a looper copeiating with said needle in a path' of mov`ement intersecting the position occupied by said under thread and formcd'with an opcnthroated beak for seizing and carrying a loop of lower thread through a needlethread loop, and means for reciprocating said looper whereby the lower-thread loop is released thereby in the'advance movement succeeding a needle-thread loop-shedding retrograde movement.

6. In a sewing machine, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle carrying an upper thread, actuating means for said needle. a non-threaded looper adapted to enter threadfloopsvpresented by said needle and haying a lower-thread seizing beak with an adjacent open throat disposed on the side thereof adjacent the work-support during the advance of the looper through the needle-thread loops, a thread-guide through which the under-thread is led intermediate the loo er and the work-support to the lower face o the work, and actuating means for imparting operative movements to said looper.

7. In. a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needlecarrymg an upper thread, actuating means for said needle, a non-threaded looper coperating with said needle and formed with an under-thread seizing beak and an adjacent throat, a threadguideoperatively connected with the looper and adapted to derive therefrom operative movements propoi'tionate to'those of. the looper and to present the under thread for seizure by the looper, and actuating means whereby said looper is caused to enchain lower-thread vloops with' the upper-thread loops presented by the needle.

8. Ink a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle carrying an upper thread, actuating means for said needle,a non-threaded looper coperating with said needle and formed with an under-thread seizing beak and an adjacent throat, a carrier upon which said looper is mounted, a thread-guide 'mounted upon vsaid looper-carrier and adapted to present the under thread for seizure by the looper, and actuating means whereby said looper is caused to enchain lower-thread loops with the upper-thread loops presented by the needle.

" 9. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming 'mechanism comprising a reciprocatin ieyepointed needle carrying an upper t read,

means for reciprocating said needle, a nonthreaded looper having a blade formed. at

,one lend -Withan upper-thread seizing beak 'and upon the upper side with a lower-thread seizing-beakfmeans for effecting the presv entation of thelower thread for seizure by the looper, and mechanism for imparting to the looper a reciprocating movement adjacent tlie vneedle-path to cause the looper to perform a complete excursion, including an advance lower-threa d loop-shedcling)r and u ppen-thread loop-seizing movement and a retrograde lower-thread loop-seizing and upper-thread loop-shedding moiement.

10. ln a sewing n'iachine, stitch-lorming,- mechanism comprisingT a'reciprocatiirn' eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread, means for reciprocating said needle, a nonthreaded looper having a lihnle'foi n1ed at one end with an upper-thread seizing beak 'and upon the upper side `with an Opp" )sitely directed and upwardly inclined loam-thread seizing beak, means for insuring the presentation of the lower thread for seizure hy the. looper, and mechanism for imparting' to the looper a-reciprocating movement adjacent the needle-path to cause the looper to pertorni a complete excursion, including an advance lower-thread loop-shedding and 11pper-thread loop-.seizing movement and a retrograde lower-thread loop-seizing and upper-thread loop-shedding,T n'ioveinent.'

11. In a sewing' machine, stitch-'formingimechanism comprising; a reciprocating; evepointed needle earring an upper thread, means for reciprocghmg said needle, a nonwthreadcdlooper having;- a blade iorn'ied at one end with an upper-thread seizing heal( and npon the upper side with an oppositclv directed and upwardly and 4 laterally inclined lower-thread seizing henk, means for insuringa the presentation ot the loiver thread vi'or seizure by the looper, and mechanism -'for imparting' to the looper a reciprocating movement adjacent the nemlle-path to cause the looper to perform a complete excursion, includingan advance imvfalhread loop-shedding' and mier-thread loop-seining movement z nd a retrograde lower-thread loop-seizing and f upper-tln-ead loop-shedding movement.

12. 1n a sewing,v machine, a stitrh-torming 'mechanism con'iln'ising a reciprfaiainjreyepointed needle marrying' an upper vthread. a throat-plate havingi a needle-holeIl means for reciprocating said needle through said throat-plate, a non-threaded loo; er=jhavin upper and under thread loop-seizing;healis A and. ino-Vahle in a path adjacent that'of the needle beneathll the throat-plate., nieans toreliecting the presentation ot a loiver thread tor seizure by the looper, a. loop-spreader disposed intermediate the throat-plate and looper and adjacent the needle-hole, and actuating mechanism tor reciprfmitinfr the looper to enter a loop ot upper thread presented hy Ithe needle and dranT a. loop ot' lower thread through the same and upon. the Spreader for passage ot the needle.

13. In a. seiving machine, a stitchforming. mechanism,comprising a reeipracatingevepointed needle carryingr an uppe thread^ throat-plate ha ving'a needle-hole` meins lor reciprocating said needle through the throatplate, a. non-threaded louper having Vupper plate and looperand adjacent the' needle# hole, actuating mechanism for imparting to the looper endwise reciprocating and sidevvise movements to cause it to enter aloop of upper thread presented by the needle and to v draw a loop of lower thread througl'i the same and upon the spreader for passage olf the needle, and a connection between the looper' and spreader vvherelgiy the latter is caused to follow the sideWise movements ot the looper.

14. In a sewing machine, a. stitch-forming mechanism comprising reciprocating eyei'iointed needle carrying an upper thread. a. throat-plate having a needle-hole, means for reciproeatin; 1 V said needle through said throat-plate, a reciprocating non-threaded looper havingv ablade formed with Upper and under thread loop-seizing beals and with an upper thread-loop detaininzgr portion, said louper heine' adapted to move in va path adjacent that ot the needle beneath the throat-plate, means tor effecting the presen! Awith suitable 'll'eeding` mechanism and actuating'means therefor, of stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eye-pointed needle carrying an upper thread, a throatplate having a n.eedlehole,means 'for reciprocating said needle through the throat-plate, a reciprocating non-threaded loop'er having it blade disposed substantially in the direction of feed and formed with upper and nader thread loop-scizingr healrs, said iooper heine adapted to move in a path adjacenthat ol? the needle beneath the. threat-plate, ini-ans for effecting the prsentation oil' the lower thread 'tor seizure by the looper` and looper actuating mechanism wlaptefl 'to impart to the looper a connut-r rcclpracation; suhstantull in the di, .ion oi feed, lor aeh reripol of the needle, and :i saipplel le Yso

looper is caused to advance through an upper-thread loop, seize a bight l of lower thread and draw it through said upperthread loop. Y

16. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread', a throat-plate having a needle-hole,'means for reciprocating said needle through the throat-plate, a non-threaded looper having a blade formed at one end with an upperthread seizing beak and upon the upper side with a reversely disposed lower-thread loop-seizing beak and movable in apath adjacent that of the needle beneath the throatplate, means for effecting the presentation of the lower thread for seizure by the looper, anendwise movable rock-shaft upon which the looper is mounted, means for communicating rocking movementsv to said rockshaft for imparting to the looper its endwise loop-seizing and shedding movements and sidewise loop positioning movements,v a longitudinally movable loop-spreader disposed above the looper, and a connection intermediate said loop-spreader and the looperrock-shatt whereby said spreader is caused to follow he sidewise movements of the looper and to serve in the retraction of the looper to first enter and spread the upperthread loop carried by the latter, to then operate in conjunction withthe lower-thread engaging beak of the looper as a former for the bight of lower thread into a loo and to finally maintain the lower-threa loop distcuded for penetration by the needlein its succeeding descent.

1T, In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread, m"ans for reciprocating saidneedle, a nonthreaded looper having 'a blade formed at one end with an upper-thread seizing beak and upon the upper side with an oppositely disposed and upwardly and laterally inclincd lower-thread seizing beak and with a lateral thread groove extending from the point of the upper-thread beak to the throat.

of the lower-thread beak uponthe side toward which the latter is inclined, means for presenting the lower .thread in a ,line intersectingv the path oi' movement of the lowerthread beak, and mechanism vfor imparting to the looper areciprocating movement adjacent the needle path to caus"e the looper to perform a complete excursion includingan upper-thread loop-seizing movement and a return lower-threa d loop-seizing and. upperthread loop-shedding movement.

1S. ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread, means for reciprocating said needle, a nonthreaded looper navmg upper'and under- Athread loop-seizing beaks, means for eliecting the presentation of the lower thread for seizure by the looper, mechanism for imparting to the looper a reciprocatingmovement adjacent the needle-path tov performa complete excursion, including an advance lower-thread loop-shedding and upperthread loop-seizing movement and a retrograde lower-thread loop-seizing and upper-V open-throated backwardly extending lower-r thread loop-seizing beak, means for effecting the presentation of the lowerl thread for seizure by the looper, mechanism forvimparting to the looper a reciprocating movement adjacent to the needle-path to cause the looper to alternately enter and enchain loops of upper and lower thread, and t0 shed during the return movement of the looper the upper-thread loops and the loweralsy thread loops inthe subsequent advance movements of the looper preparatory to seizure of a succeeding upper-thread loop, and. means for drawing upthelower thread during the advance movement .of the looper intermediate the shedding of said lowerthread loop and the succeeding engagementl of the lower thread by the looper, p

20. In a sewing machine, Stitch-forming mechanism comprising avreciprocating eyepomted needle carrying an'upper, thread, means for reciprocating saidv needle, an oscillating looper coperating-with Vsaid needle in the loop-presenting position thereof in enchaining loops of upper and lower thread, and a lower-thread take-up connected with and movable substantially in the direction of lead of the thread at itsv point of engagement therewith and in 'a circular path around a single axis of movement coincident with that of said looper andvnadapted 't0 draw up the lower thread durin the advance movement of saidl looper trough a loop of upper thread presented bythe needle.

21. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper' thread, means for reciprocating said needle,` n. looper adapted to seize a lower thread and pass loops thereof -through thread-loops presented by the needle, a reciprocating ca'rrier in whlch said looper is mounted, actuating means for said looper-carrier, and a.

ing 4beaks and coperatingwith said needle`` in enchaining loops ot' upperI and lower thread, looper-actuating means, a lowertliread nipping device with actuating means therefor to cause it to nip the lower thread while the looper lis advancing through an Aupper-thread loop, and an `lmder-tln'ead.

take-up with actuating means for causing it to operatively engage the lower thread while the looper is advancing.

23. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprisingr a reciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread, meansv for reciprocating said needle, a reciprocating non-threaded looperhaving an upper-thread seizing b'eak and a reversely directed open-throated ,lower thread seizing beak and coperating' with said needle in enchaining loopsot upper and lower thread, 1ooper-actuating means, feeding mechanism :omprisinc' a feed-bar carrying a feed-dog, a, feed-roc ier connected with said feed-bar, and a feed-lifting rock-shaft having a connection with said vfeed-bar, 'actuating mechanism for the feed-rocker and feed-lifting rock-shaft, whereby the feed-dog is litted and advanced to yleed the work while the louper approaching itsiextreme advance position, and is lowered and retracted for a fresh engagement with the work during the return movement of the looper, a lowerthread nipping device, an operative connection between said tbreiul-nipping evice and the feed-lifting rock-shaft, and a lowerthread take-up.

24. ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eyepointed needle carrying an upper thread,

-- means for recipr-zcating .said needle, a re ciprocating looper having reversely directed upper and under loop seizing beaks and cooperating with said needle in enchaining loops of upper and lower thread, an oscillating carrier upon `which said loo-per is mounted, lmper-actuating means, a lower- Ithread nipping device with means for 'actuating it, and under-thread.take-up and pull-oli' devices mounted upon and moving with said looper carrier and adapted to engage the under-thread upon opposite sides of the said nipping device, and operative connections intermediate'- said take-up and pull-oli' and the loopei" whereby they are caused' to operate simultaneously and synf flironouslyv with the looper.

25. ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating'eyeipointed needle carrying an upper thread, means for reciprocating said needle, avlooper having reversely .directed upper and under loop seizing healts and cooperating with said needle in enchaining loops of upper and lower thread, a reciprocating carrier in which said'looper is mounted, actuating means for said looper-carricr, a lowerthread nipping device with means for actuating it, a two-armed thread-controlling member mounted upon said looper-carrier and embracing said nipping device, a transverse take-up bar carried by one arm and a transverse pull-olibar carried by the other arm of said n'iemher and adapted to engage the lower thread upon the opposite sides ot said thread-nipping device.

2li. .ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a recil'irocating needle-bar, and a' plurality oi eye-pointed needlcsmoimled thereon and caca carrying an upper thread, means for reciprocating said needle-bar, a. looper rock-shaft and; -means l'or actuating the same, a looper-carrier mounted uponv said rock-shaft and formed with a cross-bar having an angular channel. parallel with said rock-shaft, a louper-clamp member forming a cap for closing said channel at the top and provided in one edge 'with a series ot parallel loopershank slots opposed to one of the side walls ol? said channel, means for removably securing said cap in position upon said crossbar, and ay series ot loopers having angular shanks fitted to said channel and each inserted inone ot the slotsv of said clampmember, each of said loopers being adapted to cooperate with its respective needle in the production of stitches.

27. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle-ban, and a plurality of eye-pointed needles mounted thereon and each carrying an upper thread, means for reciprocating said needle-bar, a looper rock-shaft and means for actuating the same, a looper-carrier mounted upon said rock-shaft and formed with a radially extending arni or web carrying a looper-clamp, a plu ality ot `loopers removably secured in said clamp and each adapted to cooperate with its spective needle in the production4 of stitches, a vseries of thread-guides and a multiple take-up device carried by said-looper-carrier, a guide-pin carried by the radial arm or web of saidloope1.carrier and extending from both faces of the same and provided in,

,its extremities with radially disposed thread notches, and pins also carried by said loopercarrier and enteringland loosely. embraced by the notches of said laterally extending guide-pins and affording threading apertures at opposite sides` of said radial arm or lld web for introduction. of threads led from said take-up to said threadpuides.

28.411 a sewin machine, the combination withv Stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eye-pointed needle carrying an upper thread, a throat-plate havingv a needle-holc, means for reciprocating said needle through said throatplate, Aa non-v thr`eaded louper having upper and under thread loop-seizing bea-ks, and moving in a path beneath the throatplate adjacent that of the needle, a lower thread-guide below the path of movement of the looper through which the lower thread is led to the needlehole, a thread-guard spaced beneath the throat-plate and the 'path 'of movement of said looper, and louper-actuating mechanism for causing said looper to alternately engage and enchain the upper and lower threads in the produc tion of stitches.

Q9. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eye-pointed needle carrying an upper thread, a throat-plate having a needle-hole, means forv reciprocating said cent the needle-hole and looper-actuating mechanism forcausing said` looper to alternately engage and enchain the upper' and lower threads in the production of stitches.

30. ln agisewing machine, the combination with stitchfforming mechanism comprising a 'reciprocating needlebar havlng a plui rality of eye-pointed needles each carrying each having an upper an up er thread, a throat-plate having a plurality of'needle-holes, means for reciprocating said needles through said throatplate, a plurality of non-threaded loopers and an under-thread 'loop-seizing beak and moving in a path beneath the throat-plate and adjacent its respective needle, feeding mechanism comprising a feed-dog, a feed-bar carrying the saine and means for actuating it, a plurality of lower thread-,guides each disposed below the path of movement of one o'f said loopers through which a lower thread is led tothe needle-hole entered by one of said needles, a thread-guard formed of a plate having a series of. slots producing a plurality of thread-guiding lingers each disposed adjacent a needle-hole, said thread-guard plate intermediate the needle;- hole and said thread-guide for deflecting thej lower thread leading from the latter across' ybeing secured to and carried by said feed-V dog, and looper-actuating mechanism for causing said loopers to alternately engage and enchain the upper and lower threads in the production of stitches.

31. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocatin needle-bar, and a plurality of eye-pointed needles mounted thereon and cach carrying an upper thread, means for rcciprocatin said needle-bar, a throat-plate formed wit a lower thread across the path of movement of its respective looper into one of said needle-holes, and mechanism for imparting l movement adg to the loopers a reciprocatin 'acent their respective neede paths wherey they are caused each to perform a complete excursion during the rise of the needles including an upper-thread loop-seizing movement and a return lower-thread loopa plurality of needle-holes corresponding in,

seizing and upperthread loop-shedding movement.

32. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame comprisingia bed-plateand an ovcrhangng bracket-arm, of a main-shaft mounted in said `bracket-arm, a. needle'bar mounted for vertical movement in said bracket-arm, operative connections between said main-shaft and theneedlebar'for re ciprocating the latter, a plurality of needles carried by said needle-bar, a fixed shaftbearing depending from said bed-plate, a longitudinally adjustable bracket depending from said bed-plate and affording a movable shaft bearing, a looper rock-shaft journaled at the rearward end 'in said fixed bearing and near the forward end in said-adjustable shaft-bearing, a plurality of loopers mounted upon' the forward portion of said rockshaft and adapted to copcrate Vwith said needles in Vthe production of stitches, and

operative connectionsv intermediate the inain-L V shaft and the rearward portion of said.' looper rock-shaft for imparting operative movements thereto.

In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame comprising a bed-plate and an' oveihanging bracketarm, of a main-shaftA j ournaled inv said bracket-arm and provided in its rearward portion with a looi'ier-actu-y 'ating ciank, a needle-bar carrying a needle?,

and operative connections intermediate the forward portion of said main-shaft and needle-bar journaled beneath said bed-plate, a llooper upon the forwardend of said rock-shaft cof lll for imparting vertical recintocations 'to the latter, a looper rock-shaft operating with said needle in the lpro'ducno.

tion of stitches, a-crank upon the rearwardend of seid rock-shaft, a pair of pivotally connected toggle links, one of which is mounted upon a fixed fulcrum and the other is pivotally connected with said-crank, af

second pair of pivotally connected toggle links of which the one is mounted upon a fixed ulcrurn` and the other is operatively connected with the first named pair of vtoggle links at their junction, and a. pitman rod affording an operative connection between the junction of the second named pair of toggle links and the actuating crank uponv the main-shaft.

3l. In a sowing machine, thefcombination with a main-shaft, of a needle-bar carrying Y a needle, operative connections intermediate said needle-bar and the main-shaft, a looper rock-shafta :1 looper thereon copereting With said needle the production of' stitches, a crank upon said looper rockshaft, two pairs of toggle links of-Which the extreme end of one of the component links is connected with the junction of the component links of the other pair, While an extremity of one of the componentlinks or the second-named pair is pivotally conneucted with the said crank upon the looper rock-shaft, and an operative connection intermediate said main-shaft and thev pivotal connection of the component links of the irst-named pair, whereby the pivotal connections of the component meinbersp both toggle links are reciprocated across the imaginary line joining the extremt ,s of the links of each pair in theactuation of said looper shaft through its connecting crank.

ln a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eyepointedineedle adapted' to carry. upper threald, means for reciprocntingfmd'needle` l a non-threaded looper constructed with e blade having all its parte rigidly 'connected together in ixed relation and provided with upper and under thread loopseizing beake of the lower thread for seizure by the looper,

-and koper-actuating mechanism'adapted to Vimpart to the looper a. complete operative excursion or each,l reciprocafton of the needle for encheinment of e single upperthread loop with e single lowenthread loop in the production of a; double-chain-stitclL 36.' In" e sewing machine, stitch-orming mechanism' .comprising a reciprocating eyeof movement of said loopercnd suhstemf tially inthe direction of leed of the'threecl across-the same and, adapted to'draw up the lower thread during the advance movement of said looper through eloop of upper thread presented by thek needle.

In testimony whereof,- I have signed. my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

ALBERT H. DE VOE. Witnesses:

D. P. Bumm,- H. J. MILLER.

d iii and moving in a path adjacent' that of the needle, means foreecting the "presentation,