US1143712A - Machine for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes. - Google Patents

Description

VWTA/ESSES'.

E. L. KEYES.

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES. APPLICATION FILED OCT. 28, 1901.

1 9 1 1 g 9 Patented June 22, 1915.

2 SHEETSSHEET 1.

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E. L. KEYES.

MACHINE-FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS A'ND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 28, 1907.

1 w l %@J? 1]. E D Patented. June 22, 1915.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

THE NORRIS PETERS Ca. PHOm-LITHCL. WASHINGT n C,

EUGENE L. KEYES, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, .ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OFPATERSON NEW JERSEY, AGORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

MACHINE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OFIBQOTS AND SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented June 22, 1915-.

Application filed October 28,1907. Serial No. 399,529.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EUGENE L. Knrns, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Machines for Use in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, of which the following descriptiomin connection with the accompanying drawings, is a. specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several. figures.

This invention 'relates to i the manufacture of boots and shoes and particularly to 'machines for working an upper over a last.

The invention will be explained in connection with the manufacture of welt shoesfor which purpose the illustrated machine has been designed. In a lasteol'welt shoe the upper is secured at theheel seat by tacks fully driven while the welt and upper are secured to the innersole by'a line of stitches called the inseam, extending from, a point adjacent to the heel seat -around the .forepart to a point adjacent tothe heel seat on'the opposite side of the shoe. There is, however, a short distance of usuallyone-half inch'or morebetween the end of the inseam and the heel seat lasting tacks which itis impracticable to reach with a sewing machine and which is therefore unsecured totheinnersole. Moreover the sewing 'machine sews less tightly at the beginning and-end ofathe inseam than at the intermediate portions, because near these points the upperlha's been already overlaid and tacked to the heel seat and it is therefore diflicult to position the sewing instrumentalities'down in the channel cut at the base of the'innersole lip.

An important feature of'this invention consists in a machine which is adapted to 0perate upon a shoe having the forwardzportion, shanks, and heel: seat'lasted and a welt attached to the upper and inner-sole about the forwardportion and shanks, and which machine comprises improved means for engaging the shoe stockfor a limited distance adjacent to the rear "end of the welt to tighten the upper about the last and hold the upper while it is being. secured.

The illustrated lnachineifurther comprises mechanism for driving tacks to eifect the securing of the upper. The engaging'means is preferably although not-necessarily conth e'end of the inseam to of the welt overthe'edge istrueted and arranged to contact with the shoe stock -1n the 1 crease between the upper and the welt, usually called the welt -crease,but accordingto the present invention contacts with the outeredgeface of the welt 'and'by such contact at and adjacent to crowd the butt end of the last and the innersole. Force applied to the shoe at this immediately adjacent portlons of the seam. driving means is arandthe tacker and engaging means may be :arranged for relative-movement in a direction Ito bring the tacker and the engaging means :from a relative position suitable to ipermitthe convenient engagement of said means-with the shoeinto a different position for the securing tack to be driven in the tie sired place. Asher-em shown the shoe and the engaging meansare movable together toward :and from the tacker and the latter may include a movable nozzle, which is connectedto the tacker-actuating :lTlGCl'lElDlSHl to cause thelatterto as shown,

be started when sufficientipressure has been applied to V 5 lift the" nozzle.

Thertacker is located-above theengaging member Where the shoe is brought into operativerrelation-to it by an upward movement that also causes the shoe stock to be pressed down against the last bot-tom between the last andthe tacker. In accordance -with-ranother feature of the invention in the illustrated construction a combination exists between vthe welt engaging means and the nozzle of:the tacker which has a roughened shoe-engaging surface which, during the lateral and upward movement of the shoe, contacts with the shoe stock on the bottom face of the innersole and works it inwardly from the edge of the last'while it is being forced downwardly against the innersole. The nozzle 1s raised againstthe resistance of a spring to start the tacker so that the abovedescribed action must take place before the V tacker is started to insert the tacks.

Anotherimportant characteristic of the inventlon is found in the construction and arrangement of the stock-engaging-devices andithe other parts of the machine so that the shoe and the'engaging devices may be obliquely to the devices so that the stock at the rear end of the seam is forced over the last farther than that ahead of the extreme end of the seam or the shoe may be presented first squarely against the engaging devices and then turned to increase the pressure upon the stock at and back of the end of the seam. In such oblique presentation and in the turning movement of the shoe the butt end of the welt back of the end of the seam is forced or turned by said engaging devices to a greater or less extent inwardly over the shoe bottom and herein is found a very important feature of the invention, which consists in means for manipulating the butt end portion of the welt over the shoe bottom where it may be secured in place to become a suitable part of the seat for the heel which is to be attached to the shoe. The welt attaching operation usually leaves the end portion of the welt back of theend of the seam inclined outwardly, whereas the curvature of the edge of the shoe at this point is such that the welt should be turned inwardly. In the illustrated machine the shoe stock engaging means heretofore referred to is formed to contact with the welt and as above mentioned may be employed to turn the butt end of the work over the shoe bottom into position to be secured by the tacker. As shown, the welt engaging means includes, in addition to a member adapted to extend under the welt into the welt crease a member for engaging the edge of the welt for bending the butt end thereof inwardly over the shoe bottom by an oblique or turning movement of the shoe relatively to the engaging means, and, to adapt them for variations in the widths of welts, the creaseengaging member and the welt edge-engaging member may be relatively adjustable as may be bent inwardly progressively and a plurality of tacks inserted along the length of the inturned end portion to hold it and the upper in place. As shown, the engaging means comprises also a third member adaptedto overlie the welt and prevent it from buckling or turning up when it is bent edge- .wise' to carry it over the shoe bottom. This latter member is preferably adjustable to ward and from the crease-entering member to accommodate welting material of dill'erent thicknesses.

These and other features of the invention, including certain details of construction and combinations of parts, will be further explained in the following description and then pointed out in the claims.

The drawings represent an apparatus einbodying the invention in the best form now known to me.

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine equipped with this invention. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the rear portion of a shoe shown in section and illustrating on the right-hand side of the shoe a condition often found in shoes before treatment by this machine and on the left-hand side of the shoe the condition of the parts after treatment in accordance with this invention. Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the shoe in relation of presentation to the welt creaseengaging member and the tacker. Fig. 4; is a plan view of the shoe and the crease engaging member, showing in dotted lines the position that appears in Fig. 3 and in full lines the position toward which, in this embodiment of the invention, the shoe is preferably moved for causing the stock to be forced over the innersole. Fig. 5 shows the stock-engaging devices in side elevation and in operative relation to the shoe which appears in section.

The frame of the machine supports a driving shaft upon which is loosely mounted the pulley 2, which has on its front or righthand surface a friction face for engagement with the adjacent face of the cam block lthat is fixed upon the shaft and through which the shaft is driven. The pulley is actuated toward the cam block to cause the shaft to be driven by a spring 6 which connects the upper end of the lever 8 with the frame. The lever is forked to embrace the driving shaft and is fulcrumed at its lower end at 9. It is provided at 10 with a steel plate presenting a shoulder for engageu'ient with a similar shoulder on a plate carried by the horizontal lever 12, which is fulcruined to a swinging bar 14. This bar, which is pivoted at 15, has a roll that stands in a groove in the cam block 4:. The horizontal. lever 12 extends forwardly over an abutment 16, shown as mounted for a slight pivotal movement, which is carried by the stem 18 of the vertically movable nozzle 20 of the tacker. The driving shaft is operatively connected through any suitable devices with means to deliver tacks to the inclined raceway 21, by which they are led to the nozzle. The driver carried by the bar 22 is lifted by the cam 23 and actuated downwardly by the spring 24. Arranged in a plane below the nozzle is the plate 25 which is slotted for endwise adjustment on the support 26, as shown in Fig. 3. The front end of the plate is preferably shaped to enter the welt crease of a shoe and, as shown, it has lateral extensions at 27, 28 to present a wide engaging surface. The plate 25 is preferably made of spring metal and has a bend or compound curve, as at 29. In the preferred embodiment of the invention the plate 25, which constitutes the welt crease-engaging means, carries a member or device 30 for engaging the edge face of the Welt and a member or device 32 which overlies the welt, as shown in Fig. 5. The member 30 is shown as adjustably connected with the plate 25 at 34. to adapt it for welts of different widths and the member 32 is also adjustable about a pivot. at 35 by means of the screw 36 to position it for different thicknesses of welts.

When the machine is at rest the parts occupy the position shown in Fig. 1 and the shoe is presented, preferably in the hands of the operator, first against the crease-engaging plate 25, which is constructed and arranged as described, to tighten the upper about the last by forcing the shoe stock inwardly and upwardly over the edge of the last or the innersole and hold it under tension until it is secured. The shape of the engaging member adapts it to enter the welt crease and engage both the upper and the welt for this purpose and the thrust is of course taken up by the inseam which connects the upper and welt to the lip 38 of the innersole. If the inseam instead of being formed at the base of the lip as it should be, see Fig. 5, is located near the upper edge of the lip, as often occurs near the rear ends of the seam, as indicated at the right in Fig. 2, the engaging device 25 will bend the lip and carry the seam inwardly over the innersole. The formation possessed by the plate 29 causes its acting end to spring up and exert an upward strain upon the shoe stock when the shoe is pressed against the plate.

The shoe and engaging member will preferably be turned relatively while in engagement to increase the pressure against the shoe stock at the rear end of the seam and carry the stock over the last bottom, for eX- ample, as illustrated in Fig. 4-. The member 30 may be arranged relatively to the member 25 so that it will. engage the edge of the welt when the shoe is presented squarely against the engaging devices or it may be set far enough back from the edge of member 25 so that it will only contact with the welt when the shoe is turned. In either position the member 30 will, during the turning of the shoe, bend or turn the butt end of the welt, at and in the rear of the end of the seam, over the last bottom and thus position it properly upon the heel seat of theshoe. The plate 32 prevents the welt from buckling or bending upwardly while the end is being turned inwardly. Of course the member 30 will be adjusted at 34; to adapt it to the width of the welt of the particular shoes to be operated upon and the plate 32 Will be adjusted for the thickness of the welting.

The stock-engaging devices are located a convenient distance below the nozzle of the tacker to permit the shoe to be conveniently presented to the engaging devices. As has been referred to, the pressure of the work causes the plate 25 to spring or bend at 29 and tends to lift the shoe so that special effort by the operator for this purpose is unnecessary. This movement may carry the shoe upwardly against the lower end of the nozzle, which is roughened as shown. The nozzle thus becomes a stock-engaging member for forcing the stock on the last bottom inwardly away from the edge of the last as the shoe is turned or thrust inwardly. The nozzle is raised to start the machine by upward pressure of the shoe against it, but as this raising of the nozzle takes place against the tension of a spring 40 the nozzle serves as an effective device for overworking the upper before it is raised. It will be understood that the nozzle engages with the stock on the last bottom subsequently to the en gagement of the shoe with the crease-engaging member.

By the described relative movements of the shoe and the stoclncngaging devices the upper between the heel seat tacks and the inseam and adjacent thereto is tightened into lasted position about the last and the upper and welt are forced over the last bottom and held under tension. When a satisfactory overworking of the shoe stock has been ef fected the operator lifts the shoe and raises the nozzle, thus rocking the horizontal lever 12. This movement of the lever removes the shoulder on its rear end from the shoulder on the lever 8 and permits the spring 6 to draw the rotating pulley into enga ement with the cam block a and start the driving shaft. This moves the cam 23 to release the driver for inserting a tack. The parts are preferably so arranged that the tack will be driven through the welt and upper into the innersole, as indicated in the drawings. By adjusting the plate 25 upon its support the distance from the edge of the shoe at which the tack will be driven can be varied. The plate 25 preferably projects outwardly from the machine farther than the member and the latter does not come between the nozzle and any portion of the work. The plate 25 may be notched as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 4 so that no portion of it is directly 1 under the nozzle.

In addition to the uses of the machine already described in tightening the upper of a welted shoe between the welt seam and the heel seat tacks and securing the upper the machine mayadvantageously be employed while the operator has the shoe in his hands, or at a different time, for tacking on the shank stiffener, which is indicated in Figs. 3 and 4: at 45. In this operation the resilient plate 25 serves as a yielding presser to force the stifiener down upon the innersole adjacent to the .point where it is to be tacked and to assist the operator in holding the stiffener in position while it is being tacked.

Having explained the nature of this 'invention and fully described a construction embodying the same andhow it may be used, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1. In a machine for Working upon a welted shoe, means for engaging the inseam to tighten the upper over the last, and means for engaging the welt to turn the butt end thereof over the shoe bottom.

2. In a machine for working upon a welted shoe, means for engaging the inseam to tighten the upperover the last, and means for engaging the welt to turn the butt end thereof over the shoe bottom, combined with means for fastening the upper and welt.

3. In a machine for working upon a welted shoe, devices constructed and arranged to engage the shoe stock to tighten the upper about the last and having a direct pushing engagement with the welt outside the welt crease to turn the butt end of the welt relatively to the body portion thereof inwardly over the shoe bottom and hold said parts while they are being tacked.

4. In a machine for working upon a welted shoe, devices constructed and arranged to engage the shoe stock to tighten the upper about the last and position the butt end of the welt over the shoe bottom, said devices including means for preventing the welt from buckling, and means for securing the welt. 7

5. In a machine for working upon a welted shoe, devices constructed and arranged to engage the shoe stock to tighten the upper about the last and position the butt end of the welt over the shoe bottom, said devices including a member arranged to extend under the welt to engage the inseam, and a member to engage the butt end of the Welt back of the inseam.

6. In a machine for working upon a welted shoe, devices constructed and arranged to engage the shoe stock to tighten the upper about the last and turn the butt end of the Welt over the shoe bottom, said devices including a member arranged to eX- tend under the welt to engage the inseam,

a member to engage the butt end of the welt back of the inseam, and a member to overlie the welt and prevent it from buckling when it is turned.

7. In a machine for working upon a welted shoe, a device for engaging the shoe stock in the inseam, and a device constructed and arranged relatively thereto to engage the edge of the butt of the welt, and position said welt butt over the shoe bottom.

8. In a machine for working upon a welted shoe, a device for engaging the shoe stock in the inseam, and a device constructed and arranged relatively thereto to engage the edge of the butt of the welt when the heel end of the shoe is turned toward said devices, combined with means for securin g the welt butt.

9. In a machine for working over a last the portions of shoe stock adjacent to the ends of the inseam, means for engaging the shoe in the welt crease to tighten the upper over the last, and a tacking mechanism to fasten the stock in tightened condition, said machine being constructed and arranged to permit relative turning movement of the engaging means and the shoe, combined with a device for engaging the edge face of the butt end portion of the welt in the rear of the seam to position it over the shoe bottom during the tack driving operation.

10. In a machine of the class described, means arranged for engagement with the outer edge face of the welt to force the butt end portion thereof over the innersole, combined with means arranged to drive a tack into the welt and innersole.

11. In a machine of the class described, means arranged for engagement with the inseam to force the welt butt over the innersole and means to hold the outer edge portion of the welt down during such movement, combined with means for driving a tack in position to retain the welt butt over the shoe bottom.

12. A machine of the class described comprising means to tighten the upper of a. welted shoe about the last and position the butt ends of the welt on the insole, said means including a device to engage the upper surface of the welt and prevent it from buckling.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

EUGENE L. KEYES.

Witnesses ARTHUR L. RUSSELL, CHARLES E. GRUSII.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents.

Washington, D. C.

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