US1128619A - Tucking-machine. - Google Patents

Description

C. C. MORGAN & G. WRIGHT.

TUGKING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN.17,1907

Patented Feb. 16,` 1915.

9 SHEETS-SHLET 1` I C. C. MORGAN & G. WRIGHT.

TUCKING MAGHNE.

APPLICATION FILBD JAN.17.1907.

Patented Feb. 16, 1915.

9 SHEETSSHEBT 2.

/yV/TA/ESSES C. G. MORGAN & G. WRIGHT.

TUCKING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN.17, 1907.

Patented Feb. 16, 1915.

9 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

S E S S M W W C. C. MORGAN & G. WRIGHT.

TUCKING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 17, 1907.

Patented Feb. 16, 1915.

9 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

C. G. MORGAN L G. WRIGHT.

TUGKING MACHINE. l

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9 SHEETS-bil EBT W/ TNE SSE S By WAUW/v C. G. MORGAN & G. WRIGHT. TUCKING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN.17, 1907.

9 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

mlllllllllll I ""l"11M/114441111 5 G g MMIII/11W mj k l/HHH/M IQ /TNESSES/ www By (MWh l l@ Patented Feb. 16, 1915.

C. C. MORGAN & G. WRIGHT.

TUGKING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED IAN. 17. 1907.

Patented Feb. 16, 1915.

'9 SHEETS-SHEET 7 INVENTUM' C. C. MORGAN & G. WRIGHT.

TUCKING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN..17,I907.

Patented Feb. 16, 1915.

9 SHEETS-SHEET 8, 4

Hull uuml Y W/r/VESSES 'u C. C. MORGAN & G. WRIGHT.

9 SHEETS-SHEET 9.

0 (n ll/NVENTOHJ L I/ffl/fm M ATTORNEY Patented Feb. 16, 1915.

paran rfrns .MEET Ri@ CHARLES C. MORGAN, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., AND GILBERT WRIGHT, OF PITTSFIELD` MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNQRS, -BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, T0 THE C. C. MORGAN COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

' ING-MACHINE.

i Application filed January 17, 1907.

To all 'whom it ma concern:

Be it known t at We, CHARLES C. MouoaN, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of New York, county and State of New York, and GILBERT WRIGHT, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Pittsfield, county of Berkshire, State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful ing-Machine, of which the following is a sfecilication.

his invention involves the provision of machine for tucking fabrics, and its object is to provide a machine whereby the various operations necessary to form and sew a series of tucks of any desired Width and with any desired distance between the stitching o'adjacent tucks may be performed properly and automatically with accuracy and rapidity.

Prior to this invention it has been customary to form a number ot tucks on a piece of fabric by folding the fabric and passing it through an ordinary sewing machine, the operator folding the fabric and guiding it to the needle. ro assist the operator in folding the 'fabric on the proper line and in guiding the fabric accurately as it approaches the needle, what have been called tucking attachments have been provided. Some of these have longitudinal guides against which operator should cause the told of the fabric to lie as it is `fed toward the needle, the position of this guide being adjustable for 'diiilerent widths of tuclr.

, lhese attachments have also included an adjustable marker that wiil, While one tuck is being stitched, marit a line on the fabric at the point where the fold for the next tuck should be made. iin all of these so-called tucking attachments, however, the folding and guiding ot the fabric is done by hand, so that the speed and the accuracy ola the worlr is dependent upon individuality 'ota the operator.

Generally speaking, it is the object oi" this invention to provide what may be called a full automatic tuclring machine, in the operation oi" which, the machine being once properly adjusted for a iven width of tuck and a given distance etween tucks (by which is meant `the distance between the stitches fastening one tuck and those fastening the next tuck) a succession of tucks are Specication of Letters Patent.

)Patented lF-eb i6, 119152 Serin No. 352.827.

accurately formed and sewed without the assistance of the operator except to merely control the stal-tin devices. The machine is arranged so thaty pressing a treadle, the sewing machine proper is put into service and the fabric, positively held in proper alinement, is moved relatively to the needle, and by actuating a clutch the mechanism for preparing the fabric for the next tuck is put into operation, continuing until that tuck is positivelyheld in alinement and is ready to be brou ht to position Jfor the sewing operation, w en the preparing mechanism is automatically stopped. The various specific means employed are such that tucks ma be produced by unskilled labor that wil be more accurate, though more rapidl produced, than those at present made by highly skilled operators, who command hi h rates of wages. Moreover, tucks may produced Whose cost is almost prohibitive when made by the methods now 1n use, as for example diagonal tucks crossing yother tucks, tapered tucks, etc. lt is believed that heretofore nopmachine has existed in the art which `will perform these automatic operations, or any of them.

To attain these ends the machine which forms the subject matter ci this application performs the following cycle ota operations: During the entire sewing operation the fabric is held between longitudinall disposed jaws or clamps which engage bot layers of the fabric along a line closely adjacent to that traversed by the needle. The fabric leading to and away from the fabric holder or gripper passes around a longitudinally disposed plate. After one tuck has been formed, the gripper and the plate are so acted upon that the fabric is eventually shifted around the plate with a new portion of the `fabric against the edge or" the plate and then is again held by the gripper with the line to be sewed away from the edge of the plate. To obtain this o eration there is provided in the machine ere in illustrated, a table having a sewing machine centrally located thereon; a plate having a thin edge about which the fabric may be folded, and extending longitudinally in front of the sewing machine and at both sides thereof, a longitudinal gripper' having spring pressed members which engage the fabric, meaiisffoi'causing a lrelative transverse movementjofthe gripper and the plate to pull the fabric back previous to its transverse shiftingand means for gripping the fabric after ithas been shifted; means for opening the gripper at the proper time to permit the shifting ofthe fabric around the plate to be carried on; means for clamping one layer only of the fabric while this operation is proceeding; devices which operate to push the loose portion of the fabric up over and across the plate when the other layer of the fabric is clamped thereby folding the fabric without distortion with a new line at the edge of the plate,and m'e'ans for automatically feeding the gripper with the fabric through the sewing machine to form the tuck. The width of the tuck and the distance between tucks is adjusted by varyin the -transverse movement of Ithe griplper reitive to the plate or the point at w ich the devices for opening and c osing the gripper are actuated.

As the cycle of operations above outlined, as well as the various means by which such operations are attained, are broadly 5novel in this art, it is clear that this invention 1s not limited to any mere details `of construction, form or arrangement and that any mere mechanical changes which do not affect the substantial mode of operation of this machine are within the broad invention herein described and claimed.

It should'be understoodz however, that the invention, in its more specific phase, includes various specific features of construction, ar-4 rangement and combination which are deemed preferable even thou it may be possible to avoid their use an` still employ the main features of the invention operating to produce substantially the same result by the same eneral Inode of operation.y

It shou dalso be understood that there,

are various features in the machine of ,this application which are novel inde endentl of whether complete advantage o the fu automatic operation be taken, and have distinct and important advanta es.

Such features of the machine which will appear with ytheir incumbent advantages in the course of the followin description, cooperate in the specific em odiment of the invention illustrated and described to obtain the full automatic tucking described, but separately involve specific novelty and utility'. v

Referring to the drawings Figure 1 is a transverse vertical section of one specific embodiment of our invention, this being taken on the line 1-1 of Fig. 2. Fig. 2 is a plan view of fthe same, a section of the sup ort being the only part of the sewing mac ine shown., Fig.l 3 is a rear view of one end of the machine, being the end at which the preparation of the fabric for sewing a tuck lline 6-6 of is l eected Fi is a 1transverse section on the line '4--4 o Fig. 3 with the various parts in the position which they occupy after one tuck has been made and the. machine is ready to draw the fabric back the r oper distance for folding the next tuck. ig. 5 isa cross-section on the line 5 5 of Fig. 3, some of the parts being omitted in order tomake certain operations more clearly appear. This view shows the parts inthe position that they voccupy after the -fabric has been drawn* back but before it is released from the gripper. Fig. 6 `is a section on the line -'tof Fig. 3 with certain of the parts omitted.Y Fi 7 vis a cross-section von the gi 3' showing a later position of the partsy a er the' gri per has opened and oneside ofthe fabricI as been clamped by the plate, thelshifting of the fabric about the plate being aboutv to commence. .The arrows on Fig. 3 indicate in which direction the various sections of Figs. 4 to I inclusive are taken. Fig. 8 is a detail showing the folding device at its normal position. Fig.

9 is a front view partly in-section of kthe mechanisx'n at the rear and at one ,end of the machine, showing principally the portion shown in Fi `8. `Fig. is a plan partly section o the cam shaft and other operating parts coperating therewith. Big. 11 is a partial front view partly in section of one end of the machine. Fig. 12 (Sheet 1) is a detail showin the needle raising mechanism. Fig. 13 (l eet 2) is a plan of the bottom plate. Fir'. 14 (Sheet 2) is an enlargement of the driving connection for the gripper. Figs. Vl5 to 19 inclusive are views of the clutch controlling the 0peration of the fabi-ic'y shifting devices.

lPrecedingjthe more specific description of v the various parts ofthe machine with ageneral outline of the same, a sewing machine B is carried from a suitable framework A at about the longitudinal center of a table C (see Figs. 2 and 4). The sewing machine is operated by power transmitted to the pulle b2, the prune mover notlbeing illustrate The :sewing machine is placed upon the table at right angles to the usual position of a sewing machine upon its work table, that is, 115

(i 2) is, therefore, disposed at right angles 120 to t e position which itordinari'ly .occu ies with respect to the table.v Whilethe fa ric is fed through the machineit lies on the table C passing over a yguide tube N and then under and around and over the longitudi- 125 sewed which Duripper nally disposed plate D. While bein the fabric is engaged by a gripper l travels along the track c of the table. ing the'sewing the fabric and the move the right hand side (Fig. "2) to l the left hand side. After a. tuck is sewed the gripper' rests on a movable frame or carriage carried by`arms K hinged to a fixed shaft ll. By operating a lever g or a lever g', a cam shaft H is rotated a single revolution automatically stopping at the endorn the revolution, and during this revolution the various movingparts operate to effect the various operations attendant upon a shifting of the fabric around the plate, and upon gripping it'once more along the proper line for the sewing operation. 'llhe distance between tucks and the width ot the tuck is adjusted by adjusting certain of Vthe movements ot these parts actuated by the cam shaft. When these operations are. completed the gripper and fabric are again movedto the right ready for the next sewing operation, and at the will of the operator the gripper'is automatically fed to the needle in synchronism with the ordinary automatic feed of the machine.

rThe various parts as above stated are all mounted on a suitable support or frame A.

B represents a sewing machine of any ordinary type, the machine being driven in the ordinary manner by a belt connecting pulleys b and b (Fig. 1). ln thepresent instance the machine is intended to be operated by a motor (not illustrated), a beltbeng Z)connectedrorn the motor tothe pulvb is a second pulley integrally or rigidly secured to pulley b2 so as to revolve with it. When the operator desires to transmit power tothe sewing machin@ proper the treadle B', which is the ordinary type ot' sewing machine treadle, is pressed downwardly at its rear end, thatv is. the end which projects under the frame. A pressure on this end of the treadle will. acting through rods B2 and b4 upon the pivoted lever B3 press the opposing faces of pulleys bs and b together. A slighter downward pressure on this portion of the treadle will lower the presser foot b' of the sewing machine, this beingbefected' through the rod B2. the pivoted ell-crank lever bi", the rod (1" and the pivoted bell-crank bm secured at its forward end to the presser foot bar. The same movement of the bell-crank lever b" raises the rod L which permits the spring stop b to envgage, theratchet V of the feed mechanism hereinafter described, When, therefore, the treadle B has been moved suiiciently to start thesewing machine these various operations have lalready beenaccomplished. Another operation that is performed when the rear end 'of the treadle is .moved downwardly is the slight raising of the plate D. in order that the fabric may be easily moved longitudinally during the sewing operation, this being accomplished by the downward movement 'of the rod la (Fis. l, 3 and t) which rocks the shaft u an so moves upv ward the rod u2 which passes through the table C, engaging the under side or'n the plate D, this upward movement being opposed by the spring a3.

lVhen the sewing operation has been completed the operator reverses the pressure on the treadle so as to raise the rear end of the treadle. As soon as the-pressure on the rear end isreduced the sewino machine is disconnected from the pulleys li". The reversal of the pressure causes the presser toot to be raised at the same time removing the spring stop b from the ratchet V while the plate D is once more allowed to fall, the rod u2 beine pressed downwardly by the spring us. further-operation performed by this movement of the treadle is the setting of the needle at its highest position to permit the abric to pass under the needle before a tuck is sewed, this being accomplished by a collar b5 on the rod B2 engaging the pivoted rod which raises the rod b1s (Fig. i2). This rod carries a cross-head 1116 sliding on uprights bl and upon the cross-head are the diverging arms il. These arms carry a strip b1? by. springs b1". When the rod b is moved upwardly the strip b1@ engages a stud 58 projecting from the fly-wheel of the machine and so revolves the fly-wheel to'bring the stud to its highest position, which position of the fly-wheel is that at which the needle is at its uppermost position.

At any time that it is desired to stop the sewing machine without effecting the other changes, above described, it is only necessary to relieve the pressure slightly on the rear end of the treadle and the machine ,will stop. By the movement of the treadle, therefore.l the oierator can adjust the positions of the nee le, of the presser-foot, of the ratchet stop and of the plategind control the actuation of the sewing machine, all in aceordance with the particular stage of the work. While the tuck preparing or folding devices are operating, the treadle may be at the neutral position or it may be pressed downward-ly at the forward end. When the gripper andy fabric are ready to be moved from the leftto the right, the forward end of the treadle should be down so that the needle and the presser foot will be up and the ratchet be freely rotatable. When the fabric is to be sewed, passing from right to left. then the rear end of the treadle should be down, lowering the presser foot, placing the stop in engagement withy the ratchet and raising the plate from the table to oppose a minimum obstruction to the passage of the fabric'while it is being sewed.

The machine illustrated is of suitable size and suitably arranged to make a series of parallel strai ht tucks for. say, ladies waists. The galerie during the operation rests upon uthe longitudinally disposed table passm under, around the thin edge, and

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on top of the plate D, which plate is pivotally secured by arms N to a stud n in front of the table C, the stud being carried on the tube N. There is, therefore, a space at the front of the plate D whereby the fabric may be folded around the plate D (being conveniently inserted by raisin the plate as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 1) and both layers may extend forwardly over the tube N. To explain the mechanism and the operations performed let it be assumed that the parts are in the position shown in Fig. 2, and a tuck is about to be sewed. The fold of the fabric will be held in the gripper E which is in the present instance composed of a. number of spring clips E rigidly held together. In the present instance the plate e, shown separately in Fig. 13, is a continuous plate while the upper portion 'of the gripper is'made up of a number of spring clips acting upon said plate. This gripper is longitudinally disposed, engaging the fabric substantially continuously and on a line closely adjacent to the line traversed by the needle. It rests in a groove or track c which extends from end to end of the machine.

At the rear (right hand) end of the gripper is secured a small plate E2 which is'bent up'ward and has at its upper end a slot into which the linger e projects.l This finger isv thel sewing machine is designed, that is, ity

must be in synchronism with the movementof the needle. The ordinary feed of the sewing machine indicated atf2 (Fig. 2) is not discarded, but the additional automatic feeding accomplished by the movement of the cord F is made to operate in synchronism with the usual feeding device f2. The bent lever o (see Fig. 3) at its upper end passes into the head of the sewing machine and is connected in the machine to the ordinary needle bar operating mechanism, so as to have a rocking movement in synchronism with the movement of the needle operating mechanism: This lever v carries a pawl 'v' which engages the teeth of the ratchet V. The pawl /v is pivoted to the lever e and at its lower end is connected by a bent rod o2 with the ordinary feeder f2 of the sewing machine. The movement of the lever 'v to the left (Fig. 3) moves the ratchet wheel one tooth. When the ordinary feeder f moves downward it pulls down by means of the rod v2 the lower end of the pawl v', lifting it out of the teeth of the ratchet so that it may move back over the ratchet with greater smoothness, this'pullingl down being effected I justas the lever o is about to move again to the right. Asthe needle bar and feeding mechanisms of the sewingmachine Aare in synchronism, this construction necessarily causes the movement of the `ratchet wheel to vbe in synchronism with the usual feed mechanism, and therefore the movement of the cord F and thegripper E are in synchronism with said Ordinar feeding mechanism. Preferably this additional feed should'be connected so that its feeding is a trifle in advance of the ordin'aryifeed of the ma* chine, thus relieving the strain on the latter. lOne important feature of the inven# tion involves this sewing of the tuck while itis firmly held in alinement by the gripper. Another feature of the invention, which it is advisable to employ, is the feeding ofl the gripper by the mechanim additional to the usual feeding device of the sewing machine and operating in synchronism` therewith. This is advantageous not only because the ordinary feeding device will not always be found-strong enough to carry both the fabric' 4and the grlpper through-the machine, but also because the additional feedingfofthe gripper, as above described, relieves the strain upon the fabric and also insures the feeding of both layersof the fabric equally lthrough the machine, whereas it has frequently been found in ordinary sewing machines that inferior l work is ydone through an unequal feeding of the upper and lower layers of the fabric. y

When the gripper has completed its movement from right to left (Fi 2) thus finishing one tuck, the fin er eY becomes disengaged from the end p ate E2 of the gripper by means of a cam e2 (see Fig.l 3) which e11- gages the finger and lifts it out of the slot in the plate E. The gripper and the fabric held by it are now at the left hand end of the machine and the position of 'the parts at this time is indicated in Fig. 4. The various operations attendantupon' preparing a new tuck to be sewed are now to commence. For this purpose power is transmitted to the cam shaft H from the pulley b as follows: The pulley b drives the pulley b24 which is connected by a shaft to the worm B5. The worm B drives the gear B which` is connectedto the gears is by means of a clutch G, one of the gears fbeing upon the cam shaft H and driving the same. In order to start these parts in motion the operator holds the handle g which operates the clutch until the moving parts have rotated to maintain the clutch in engagelution when it is automatically thrown out of engagement. The parts of the clutch and the description ofthe same will be set out hereinafter. The clutch may also be manipulated through the handle g (see Fig. 4.-) as will also be hereinafter er. lained.

The revolution of the cam shaft ,which begins when the clutch has been put into en-4 gagement, effects a number of movements. Une of the irst of these is the clamping of the gripper tightly upon its carriage'. rl'hus in Fig. 4.- it will be noted that the gripper E rests loosely upon the su port E8 lying in that portion of its track at is formed in the top of said su port. rlhe gripper, therefore, was enable to slide smoothly tov the left -hand end of the machine dur-n the sewing operation. Once the cam sha-t .begins .to revolve the cam k7 moves the lower end of plate spring 7c* rearward. 'llhe upper end of this spring engages the rearward end 0i a longitudinally disposed Lclamp E* which is pivotally mounted on pins e so that when the lower end of the plate k" moves rearwardlyl lthe clamp E* swings downward atits forward end upon the 'lower plate of the gripper and a recessed portion of the clamp engages small verticai studs c7 on the rear of the lower plate of, the gripper. in F ig. 4f the gripper is not clamped, .but in Figs. 5 to f( the gripper is shown clamped in the manner justdescribed. rThis clamping is eii'ected .because darin the transverse shifting Iof ithegripper and t e fabric, here- 'matter described, the movement must he yan accurate one and theref A e the gripper must be rigidly clamped ot erwise lthe fabric vwould be moved inaccurately and it would be impossible afterward -vto engage the abric accurately along a predetermined line.

is the cam shaft H continues its rotation the gripper carrier gradually .sws backward around' the axis of the-shaft ll. This is edected by the Amovement of the cana it over the roller j which is ,carried upon the stud J at the end of l the mounted upon the shaft l. in liiig. t the earn it is shown as so supported bythe roller j as to maintain 'the gripper and its supportingrame in the extreme tor-ward position, .but thel movement ci' the cam in the direction of the arrow on .sha-ft H permits'lthe she-lit i-l to gradually tall rearwardly. The cam shaft "H is mounted in the threeeians ,K of the gripper supporting ira-me, which arms pivoted on thel shaiit i, and carry the support iig tor the gripper when it is at .the left hand end of the' machine. K is a spring connected at one end .to a iredportion of the base and at itsupper .end to the shaft i@ which connects the ,upper ends o the three arms K. As therefore the .cam Ze rotates, .this spring K acts to .move the gripper support on the shaft i as a pivot backward until the position shown in Figs. and T is reached. By reference to Fig. 5 it will be noted ,that .this movegjnent has been limited .by the engagement .orthe ,erm

k, which issecured to, and projects downf ward from, the shaft K2, with the lever c' which is pivoted upon the shaft l and extends through the front of the machine. Near the front of the machine there is secured to said lever k a small projecting pin or stud lf2 which engages the under .side of one of the flat keysfKa, the other. end of said key engaging the under side of a downward projection of the table C. The various keys K3 differ only in their length, the particular key to be chosen depending, for any given width of tuck, upon the distance that it is desired to have between tucks. These keys are therefore adjusting devices for adjusting the distance that the fabric will be pulled when the rearward movement of the gripper is .stopped by the arm L'. A spring ica, connecting the table C and the lever lc', holds said lever in position to receive the end of the yarm k and stop the backward movement of .the gripper.

The particular key to be chosen depends both upon the .distance between tucks and the width o the tuck, since the distance through which the fabric should be shifted transversely before the gripper opens must be such as to .allow suiicient fabric for the proper width of tuck andthe proper distance between tucks. While the gripper is making this rearward movement,` the plate D is also being moved from the position shown in -i in which its edge is substantially dash with the edge of the table and yforward of the vertical plane in which the sewing is velected, and in which it is held slightly up from the table to the position of Fig. 5 in which it has been moved rearwardly to the other side of the sewing line and has dropped upon the table. This movement irons or smooths ythe fabric and places the plate in a position to Abe later engaged by the gripper when the latter again grips the fabric. 'Ehis movement ot the plate is accomplished by the cani iig on the cam shaft At the yinning oi the cycle the plate is held upward by the arm eng (Fig. 6) ,carried by one of the links M' ed bearing @a .the meer Side or one or ai@ two arms N. @Unies dlsenggd from the end of the arm vm, which .is rigidly secured upon' the rock shaft M. Shaft ltd is connected by links M to studs n carried at the end of the guide 'tube N which extends the iength or .the machine and to which is secured yby s N. the plate D. llo the arm m is connected a' spring m which has one end fixed to the shaft l and tends to puil the 'arm Idownward. When the .cam its moves to the lett (Fig. d) the spring m pulls the arm m downward andcauses aslight rocking of the shaft lid and therefore a rearward movement oi the upper end of .the iink N', so carry- `the piatte@ giromthe :position shown in When earn its moves it be# i reo l osition preparatory'to the rings a new part of the fabric at the edge Fig. 4to the position shown in Fi 5. This same movement carries downwar the arm m2 from a position supporting one of the arms N to the position shown in Fig. 6'

present instance always madeI to close over' the fabric and over the edgev of the plateD to grip the fabric for-a new tuck, when the gripper is at the same lpoint, in its reciprocatmg movement. For this reason the width .of the .tuck to be sewed may be adjusted by adjusting the distance to whlch the plate D is moved rearwardly. This adjusting of the stop o is accomplished by movement of arm O which is loosely and slidablymounted on the shaft M and upon which the stop o isl carried. From the arm O projects rearwardly a in o which may enter any one of a series o -recesses of graduated depth in a plate o8A lsecured to the front of the 'table C. The spring Z', acting through the `shaft l, arm L, shaft M and arm 0, holds ,the pin in whatever recess it has been placed. Dur-l ing the same period parts of the fabric shiftingv devices are made to assume a new operation that of the plate. These parts comprise the two arms L which lare plvoted upon a. shaft L which sha/ft is carried upon links IS2- connected to the shaft M. Connecting the arms L is a small shaft Z which rests under the army g. This arm g' has a cam shaped portion g2 at its end which isv the'part pivoted to the shaft I, and the upperpart of this cam-shaped portion g2 engages, when the cam shaft is in the position shown in.y Fig. 4, a roller h2 carried on arms h xed'on cam shaft H. When the cam shaft is moved to disengage the roller and the cam-shaped member g2, then'the spring Z which is connected between the shaft l and the flat spring c, before described, comes into action.

to. move the arm L upward from the position shown in Fig. 4 to that shown in Fig. 5. The guide Z2 having a rubber'edge la is secured at the upper end of the arms L and is then brought underneath and at the edge of the plate D, as shown in Fig. 5 for a purpose to be hereinafter pointed out.

The shaft L', constituting the axis for the lever L passes, as shown in' Fig. 4, through the armvO and moves transversely with that arm. The advantage ained bythis is that the guide Z2 with its ru ber edge Z3 is made-tol assume the same posltion relatlve to the plate D regardless of the width of the tuck to be sewe When, therefore, the movement of the plate is varied by the adjusting devices a contact above` described, the position of the shaft 'Lf upon whichthe arm L carrying the guide is hinged is 'correspondingly varied, thus bringing the outer or guide end of the saidarm in the proper position relative to the late. This c onnectlon of the shaft L and ever 0 also enables the 'spring Ztohold'the pin ol in its proper recess.

Preparatory' `to shifting one layer of thel fabric forwardly over the plate-D itv will be this is done the other layer of the'fabric. atone or the other side of the plate must be rigidly held independently of the gripper E in order'that the fabric ma be asa whole maintained in alinement durm this operation. In the present instance t is clamping of the `-fabric preparatory to the folding necessary to open the` gripper E,'but when'A o eration is effected by an electro-magnet g,

the circuit-to which is automatically closed at the proper instant. The plate vD is of magnetic'material. The switch controlling' lthe circuit from,fa'ny suitable source tothe coils of the ma et is shown openinFi'gs and 5 and closed 1n Fi 7, This swi th ,con sists of a contaLt p, 1n the present instance carried by the support for'the gripper, and' carriedon the camv shaft H; Thus in. ig. 54 the operations previously described'in detail have taken place, but the plate is not yet attracted by .the magnet to clamp the fabric. The cam shaft is moving 1n the direction of the arrow and the next operation will be the closing of this' switch and therefore the energizing of the magnet iwith lthe consequent clamping. of the fabric as the plate Dis attracted to the magnet.

The next .operation isthe opening of the gripperv E. This may occur simultaneously with the clamping of the fabric bythe plate D above described. It Ais effected b the movement of an l.shaped lever Q whlch is secured to a longitudinally disposed gripper opening bar g. The lower end ofthis g lies above theupper spring 'aws of the gripper. The L-shaped lever is rigidly secured upon the shaft K2 and at its lowerl end engages a cam h* on the cam shaft, the end of the lever being held properly against the cam by the sprin Q secured at one end to the lever and at t e-other endyto one of the levers K thatv su port the gripper. When the lower end o lever Q is moved rearwardly by the movement of the c'am lf1.4 the bar g moves downwardiy and opens the gripper by raising the upper spring jaws. The relative position of this opener` while opening the gripper is shown in Fig. 7, in which figure, however, certain further operations have been performed. At this portion of the fabric consisting of the tuck lastI sewed and asuitable amount of iol i teatro ward by a member which engages the under side of the loose end of the fabric and pushes' it upwardly over the edge of the plate along the top of the plate. ln order to permit this fabric shifter' to crate the next step in detail of the machine illustrated is to throw the gripper with its supports still farther rearwardly. rll`his is accomplished by the movement ot the shaft K2 which has already been described as rigidly connected to the {1 -shaped lever Q. After the l.shaped lever is moved suciently to open the gripper, as above described, a further movement rearward of the lower end of said lever7 caused by a further movement of the cam h4, will V.roch the shaft K2 far enough to carry the arm is twhich has heretofore been described as supporting the .gripper after the gripper has first moved the fabric rearward, see `lig. 5^) away trom the supporting lever it. When this is ed'ected there is no longer anything to oppose the action oi the springs K which tendsto niove the gripper trame' backward about the anis ot the shaft ll. Accordingly the gripper and its connecting parts are moved to the position shown in Fig. 7a leaving a wide rap between the plate l) and the gripper. of this movement of the gripper treme there is provided a dash pot llt. This is an ordinary air dash pot, the piston R of which is secured by a link ,r to the frame A of the machine, while the cylinder R2; is pivotally connected at r with the movable rameworlr that carries ythe gripper.

The fabric shifter is a longitudinally disposed tube a inclosing a rubber tube e which is brought out or a slot the tube to .terme rubber edge e2. 'lhe shifting is eected by the upward movement oi edgel e2 from the position shown in l? i ohliquely tothe right over the edge and on top or the plate l), thus pushing the loose fabric over the edge of the plate to told it along a new line. The folder or shifter is carried at the lower. end of two lin'lrs c3 (see Figs. 3, dp il. These links are pivoted at their upper end upon the longitudinally disposed tube S, which tube is carried at the forward ends orn levers S which are pivoted upon the .shaft K2 of the gripper supporting trarne. Ilhe links s are connected by an intermediate tube et, while two additional .links e connect the fabric shifter e the tube ci. The

(do relieve the shockarms S. entend rearwardly et their pivotal point upon the shaft K2 being connected by the tube S2 (Fi-g. 7). A dat spring S is secured to each arm S and at lts free end engages the folder tending to force the same forwardly toward the table C and plate D. The normal position of the folder and the devices supportin it is indicated in Fig. d., but in F ig. 8 is s own the mechanism that at this time holds the folder and its supportingv devices in this position.

is a lever pivoted at z' upon an arm l which is xed uponl the xed shaft l. 'llhis lever carries acompoundcam on its upper end and at its lower end below its pivotal point it is engaged by the roller It carried on a crank it on the cam shaft H. A spring t connected between the heed arm ll and the lever 'l` above its pivotal int tends to move the upper .end ot'the ever with its compound cam forwardly. This movement is prevened by the .engagement of the roller` h5 with the lowerend of the lever '.l. ll on one of the links es (the one shown in ig. 8) is a recess at ce which' in the position shown in Fig. 8, is engaged by a pin t at the upper end ot the lever T. Thisprevents the linkse3 with the folder from. moving under the inuence of the dat spring S".

'lhe compound cam carried on the upper end ot the roller 'll' will be described with reference tothe movement oi the lever T and folding devices during the operation of the machine, it being understood that ait/er. the tuch has been sewed and the parts are in the position ehownin ligpi, the shitting devices are held as vabove leaplainecl in the position shown in that gure.

When the mechanism has been actuated, as

f S3. 'lhis carries the compound cam' to such a position as will bring the. roller'S, which is carried upon one end ot the shaft S9 above the surface l" of the compound eem on le` ver T. This movement is not -sucient to cause actual engagement between this roller and said sui-tace. rlhe engagement at a later instant is indicated in Fig. t, where the roller is partly shown in dottedlines. This engagement oi the roller Si and the cam surface rl" is caused by the hrst rearward .movement ot the shaft l 2 of the gripper supporting frame, which movement has been heretofore described as due to the rotating ot the cam :t upon 'the roller j. Therefore when the gripper moves rearwardly to pull delirio-transversely utter a tuclrhas been ict sewed, the same movement causes the sup- 4ports S of the folding devices to move downward to the position shown in Fig. 6. These fabric shifting .devices and their -supports remain in the position shown in Fig. 6 until the second movement rearward of the gripper supporting frame, which movement as already been described as being caused by the cam h* through the agency of which the arm k is no longer supported on the arm lc. When this movement of the supporting frame takes place, moving the shaft K2 of said frame rearwardly, the shifting devices are again moved j rearwardly anddownwardly -causin them to assume the position shown in Fig. At this position the folder is in its extreme downward position andthe roller S has dropped from the surface T of thecompound cam to the portion of the surface T2 thereof, (see Fig. 8), dropping over the corner T in its passage. The surfaces T and T2v are in ahnement, the arms T4, which carry the upper surfaces, being bent out to allow affree passage upward of the roller over the surface T2. The grip er supporting frame now begins the orward stroke of its reciprocation, being movedI forwardly because the camshaft H has reached such a position as tocause thecam hto begin to rise over the roller j. As this movement continues, carrying the -gripper sup-y porting frame forward against the opposition .of the springs K', the folder or fabric shifter is carried forwardly and upwardly.

Thisis due to the fact that the shaft K2 is moved forwardly'carrying with it the arms S andthe folding devices, while the roller S4 is guided in the proper direction upwardlyand forwardly by the surface T2 of the cam. Referring to Fig. 7 this forward movement assisted bythe springs Sa carries the edge a2' of the fabric shifter over the 'de Z2 with its rubber edge 2 pushing the abric over the edge of the plate D and stretching it thereover. The ioose portion of vthev fabric/is therefore pushed over and folded readyl to be gripped for a new tuck and the shifter or folder holds the fabric -until the gripper has again been brought to the proper position to grip` the fabric. Before describing the operations to effect` the latter purpose, the remainingv movements of the folding devices will be described. When the cam shaft H hasnearly completed its revolution, thel roller h5 engages the lower surface of thearm T and moves it and its,

compound cam to the position shown in Fig. 8. This, bythe engagement of the pin twith the recess a, swings the fabric shifting devices upward about shaft K2 and `restores them to the position shown in Fig. 8. The primary purpose of the fabric shiftin is that the fabric shall be shifted aroun theA late the proper distance, butithe parur shifter or folder describedv which enmancia ages the fabric from beneath has been ound to be peculiarly eflicient as its use is not attended with any tendency/to strain or distort the fabric.

As soon as the fabric has been pushed over the plate D, as above described, the arm L carrying the guide Z2 is moved back from the position shown in Figs. 5 and 7 to theI position shown in Fig. 4 because the camshaped portion g2 ofthe lever g is engaged by the roller f1.2 on the arm k of the cam shaft, thus forcing the arm g to the position shown 'in F ig. 4 and 'causing it to press downwardly against the opposition of the spring Z upon the shaft Z thatconnects the Vof the lever Q, thenthat lever moves back to the position shown in Fig. 'permitting.

the gripper to close. This movement of lever Q is assisted by the spring' Q. 'The rocking of the shaft K2 caused by this movement of the lever Q when the latter permits the gripper to close, 'causes the arm la to swing forwardly so as once more to take a position over the lever 1c. The radial portion hs of the'cam, which governs thev closing of the gripper, is sovpositioned as to permit'the closing of the gripper when it has moved to its normal position of Fig. 4. The gripper is now in its extreme forward position and the fabric is foldedupon the edge of the plate, the gripper engaging both fabric and plate. Switch p, p now operates by the further movement ofthe cam shaft to open the circuit of the magnet and so unclamp the lower layer of the fabric. The plate D is now moved forwardly to assume again its forward and slightly raised position (F ig. 4f), this being accomplished because the nger its on the cam shaft engagesarm m to raise it and swing the guide tube Npforwardly through the medium 'of the link M hinged to the shaft M. Finally the movement of the cam Il.7 oncemore permits the gripper clamp E4 to' take the position shown in Fig. 4, so that the gripper is loosened, and may be slid to the right. The cycle of operationsis now completed,

vthe gripper being moved by hand with the fabric embraced by it along the track c from `left toA right tothe position shown in Fig.

actuating the treadle B to put pulleys b', b3 into engagement the new tuck is sewed as before.

ln the drawings the plate l) is shown with its edge lying exactly parallel to the gripper and the line of vthe sewing. Underv these circumstances straight tucks will be produced. lf 'it is desired to produce 'tapered tucks it is only necessary 'toadju'st the `plate so that its edge lies 'at a slight angle to the line of the sewing. By doing this the fold of the fabric is on the sa'me angle relative to the gripper and the 'line of the sewing, and a tapered tuck will necessarily result. This adjustment of the plate vmay be 'effected by loosening the set screws ini vwhich hold the ends of the plate to the arrns N shifting the end of the plate which is cu'rved for Vthis purpose, and then fastening 'the plate in an oblique position by again `tightening up the set screw. Y

rlhe details'o theclutch G arepfs'liown in Figs. l5` to 19 inclusive, tiheouter lrie'niber G ofthe clutch isrifgd'ly'secured to a. sleeve G2 which revolves vloosely ilpon 4the fixed shaft l and is rigidly secured t'o the gear y mounted upon said sleeve.. The 'inner member of the clutch comprises a ratchet Wheel G3 which 'is secured to revolve with another sleeve G4, which is also loosely mounted upon the lined Vshaft ll and secured to revolve with the worm vvheel B0. p y

g3 is :i fixed com secured `by screws g to the supporting frame C oie the table. rThis cam has a recess g5 adapted-to receive a roller g" at the end of arod gl that passes throng-li a slot in the `outer member G of the clutch. This rod carries a 'ratchet Ag5, which ratchet is normally helpt out of gagement with the constantly revolving' ratchet vvheel til hy means ci 'the spring g. lillien the lever g is moved to the left (Fig. i?) it forces the ratchet g8 i to a tooth of the revolving ratchet wheel and thereby puts the two clutch members into engagenient` revolving' sleeve (i2 and gear Wheel i and so the other gears f o? the cam shatt. llflien the outer clutch member Gf has moved a shortdistance the roller g leaves the reoi' notch ,fl/'r' and rides on the periphery or" the cani yx. rlhis maintains the clutch in .engagement until one revolution has been made und the roller y again drops into re g5 at which time the clutchloecomes automatically disconnected tostopl'tlie tuch preparing mechanism. The sume .result in the present instance `can be secured o periitmg; the lever g yu'liosecani g2 engages roller if. land thus moves the ycam shaft a sutlicient distance to bring the roller g out of the recess g'' and therefore .the sume operation is efdected. A j

'lhe machine .above illustrated and described has heen-found to satisiactorily'and efiiciently achieve the objects set out herein before. It is probable that in many respects the4 detailed mechanism may be modified, simplified or improved Without departing from the essential features of the invention as set forth in the appended claims. It is particularly pointed out that many of the movements herein described are produced in order that two parts shall have a relative movement to each other in order that a desired result may be obtained. ln such cases it is notl important which of the members has the actual movement. For example, the gripper is moved longitudinally I in order that there shall be a relative movement of the gripper and needle to produce the sewing operation while the gripper is positively holding lthe fabric in alinement. So long as this relative movement is produced it is immaterial which member' actually moves, or Whether either member is xed.

Having thus described our invention what we claim as nevvand desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. ln a tucking' machine, the combination of means for clamping thefabric longitudinally adjacent to the line'of the sewing, a pivotally movable plate :adapted to lie between the layers of the fabric, fabric shifting devices, and actuating mechanism connected to said shifting devices to actuate the sii-nie automatically.

t2. ln a tucking machine, the combination of meanstor clamping the fabric longitudinally adjacent to the line of the sewing, a pivotally mounted plate movable tiensversely to the line of sewing and adapted to lie between the layers of the fabric, :tab-ric 'shifting devices, and actuating mechanism connected to the plate and shifting devices` s to actuate the saine automatically.

3. ln a tucking machine,l the combination or means for clamping the fabric longitudinally adjacent to the line of the sewing, a pivotalljv iiioun'ted plate movable transversely to the ,line of sewing and adapted to lie between the layers of the fabric, fiabric shitting devices, and mechanism for releasing' the clamping means and actuating the plate and the fabric shifting devices automatically.

s. ln a.l tucliing machine, the combination 'of a. needle, means tor feeding the fabric reiatively to the needle to form a line of tuciiing, means 'for maintaining vthe fabric clamped during the sevvin of said line of tucliing, a device for releasingthe clamping tmeans after said. line of tucling 'has .been Toriued, fabric engaging devices adapted to present anew fold of the fabric 'to said clamping means, and actuating mechanism for operating the releasing device and the fabric engaging gdevices in predetermined relation to each other.

5. rln a tncking mace,:the combination liti@ of a needle, means for feeding the fabric htucking, means for maintaining the fabricJ clamped during the sewing of said line of tucking, means for releasing the clamping -means after the line of tucking has been formed, a` plate adapted to lie between the layers of the fabric, positively actuated fabric engaging devices adapted to bring a new vline of the fabric at the edge of ythe plate,

and actuating mechanism for operating the releasing device, the plate and the fabric engaging devices in predetermined relation.

6. In a` tucking machine,the combination of means for clamping the fabric during each sewing operation, a device for releasing the clam ing means after each sewing operation, fa ric engagingdevices adapted to present a new fold of the fabric to said clamping means, actuating mechanism for operating the releasing device and the fabric engagingdevices in predetermined relation to each other, and means for adjusting the movement of the fabric engaging devices:

7. -In'a -tucking machine, the combination of means for clamping the fabric during each sewing operation, a device for releasing the .clamplng means after each' sewing operation, a plate adapted'to "lie between the layers of the fabric, fabric 'engaging devices adapted to bring a new line of the fabric at the edge of the plate, actuating mechanism for operating the releasingdevice, the plate and the fabric engaging devices in predetermined relation, and means forv adjusting the movement of the fabric engaging devices.

8. n a tucking machine, the combination of vmeans for clamping the fabric during each sewing operation, a device for releasing the clamping means aftreach sewing operation, a plate adapted to lie between the layers of the fabric, fabric engaging devices adapted to bring a new line of the fabric at the edge of the plate, actuating mechanism for operatin the releasing device, the plate and the fa ric engaging' devices in redetermined relation, and means for adjusting the movement of the fabric kengaging devices and of the plate. n

'- 9. In a tucking machine, a needle, a lon# gitudinally disposed fabric gripper,` means for moving said gripper longitudinally and maintaining the fabric clamped while a line of tucking is sewed by said needle,y devices controlling the opening and closing of said gripper, and means for causing said devices to act after the sewing of a line of tucking has been completed. l 10. In a tucking machine, a fabric gripper mounted to have a longitudinal movement and a transverse movement, and mea-ns for opening and closing said gripper arranged to be actuated during the transverse movement of the gripper.

11. In a tucking machine, a needle, a fabric gripper, means for producing a relative movementl between the gripper and the needle vin practically the same direction as the line` o f theetucks and during the per- 13. In av tucking machine, a needle forv sewing the tucks,-a fabric gripper having spring jaws, means for reciprocating said gripper relatively to the needle `in a direction transverse to the line of the sewing, and a device for opening said jaws whenever the gripper is at a predetermined position relative to the needle.

14. In a tucking machine, a needle, a fabric gripper, means for reciprocatingv said gripper relatively to the needle in a direction transverse to the line of the sewing, a device for opening the gripper when it is at a predetermined position relatively to the needle, and means for adjusting the mechanism to vary the relative position aty which said opening device acts.

15. In a tucking machine, a needle, a fabric gripper, means for reciprocating said gripper relatively to the needle in a direction transverse to the line of the sewing, and mechanism arranged to open said gripper at one predetermined position of the` gripper relative to the needle, and to close said jaws at another predetermined position of the gripper relative to the needle.

16. In a tucking machine, a needle, a fabric gripper, means for reciprocating saidl gripper relatively to the needle in a direction transverse to the line of the sewing, mechanism arranged to open the gripper at one predetermined position of the grippeiI relative to the needle and to close said gripper at another similarv predetermined position, and means for adjusting the position relative to the needle at which said mechaadapted. to move longitudinally with the fabric during the sewing operation. means for reclprocatmg said gripper, mechanism ico magen:

justing the position of the gripper at which said mechanism opens the gripper.

1). In a tucliing machine, sewing and feeding mechanism, a longitudinally disposed rocking plate about which the fabric may be folded and mechanism operating upon the saine to reciprocate the saine transversely 20. In 'a tucking machine, sewing and feeding mechanism, a longitudinally dis-l posed rocking plate about which the fabric may be folded, a longitudinally disposed fabric gripper and means for causing a relative reciprocation of the gripper and plate.

21. In a tuckin machine, a. longitudinally disposed ro'c ing plate about which the fabric may be folded, a longitudinally disposed fabric gripper, and mechanism connected to both gripper-and plate and acting to reciprocate both the gri-pper and the plate transversely.

22. In a tucking machine, a needle, a longitudinally disposed pivotally mounted plate about which the fabric may be folded,

a. longitudinally disposed lfabric gripper, means for causing a relative reciprocation 4of the gripper and plate, and a device acting upon the gripper to open the same when it is at a predetermined position relatively to the needle of the sewing machine.

.23. In a tucking machine, a plate about which the fabric is to be folded arranged longitudinally adjacent to the line of the sewing, means for vholding the fabric positively in alinement along the line of the tuck' during the sewing operation, and

means'for preventing transverse movement ,e

of the fabric at one side of the plate and for simultaneouslyy .moving the fabric transversely at the other side of the plate preparatory to the sewing operation.

:24. ln a tucking machine, a plate aboutwhich the fabric is to be folded. a table beneath said plate.l and an electrical device for vai-,ving the pressure between said plate und table.

25. lii'a tin-king machine, a nccdl, a fabfi'emthe plate. means` for openingr the gripper ata given point in said movement. de

vices for pushing the loosened fabric about the plate. ineens. for moving the gripper toward the plate; and means for closing the gripper :ita given point in said n'ioveincnt.

26. in a tucliing machine. a plate disposed transversely after the sewing operation, ad-

justing devices for varying the action of the shifting mechanism, and means for thereafter forming the new tuck to be sewed.

'28. In a tucking machine, a device acting upon thc fabric to maintain positive alinein'ent of the tuck during the sewing operation, mechanism for pulling the fabric trans-l versely after the sewing operation, means for thereafter forming the new tuck to be sewed, and adjusting devices for. varying the action ofthe forming means.

29. In a tucking machine, a device acting upon the fabric to maintain positive alinement of the tuck during the sewing operation, mechanism for shifting the fabric transversely after the sewing operatiom adjusting devices for .varying the action of the l,shifting mechanism, means for thereafter veisely, and tuck folding or forming mechanismk acting to move the fabric at one side ot' the plate transversely while that at the other side of the plate is rigidly held.

31. In a tucking machine, a plate having van edge aboiit which the fabric may be folded, and positively actuated fabric engaging mechanism arranged to move the lfabric as a whole a predetermined distance around said plate.

32. ln a tucking machine, a needle, a fabric gripper and a plate, means for feeding the fabric to form a line of tucking, means 'for moving the fabric gripper transversely to the line of teaching, means for releasing the fabric from the gripper at an intermediate point in the grippei"s movement, fahric shifting devices operating after the gripper has thus released the fabric. and means for causing the gripper to again grip the fabric atanother point in the reciprocation.

33. in a tucking machine, a plate and a fabric gripper arranged longitudinally with respect to the line of the sewing, means for moving said gripper away from said plate. means for opening said gripper, means for ifs

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