US1100469A - Manufacture of shoes. - Google Patents

Description

E. BAYARD, DEOD.

A. A BAYARD, EXEGUTRIX.

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED 00123, 1911;

. 4 9 Patnted June 16 1914.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EMERY BAYARD, DECEASED, LATE OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, BY AMELIA A. BAYARD, EXECUTRIX, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Original application filed February 2, 1907, Serial No. 355,509. Divided and this application filed October 23, 1911. Serial No. 656,228.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that EMERY BAYARD, late of State of New York, deceased, invented certain Improvements in the Manufacture of Shoes, of which the following description,

in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and particularly to an improvement in methods of making shoes, and is a division of applicants co-pending application Serial No. 355,509, filed Feb. 2, 1907 which has matured into Patent No. 1,006,457, granted Oct. 24, 1911.

In accordance with the present invention the edge portion of a shoe, for example, the projecting edge portion of the sole of a turn shoe, is shaped by supporting one face thereof while the other face is treated, as, for example, by rubbing pressure, and preferably the upper adjacent to the rand creaseis acted upon at the same time as the face of the sole. For the best results both the shoe upper and the lower face of the shoe bottom are rubbed simultaneously, and if desired the edge face of the sole may also be supported or rubbed while its side faces are being treated, whereby the entire edge portion of the shoe is worked into the desired shape and relation to the adjacent portion of the upper. A similar procedure may be employed for shaping the Welt which forms a projecting edge portion of the bot-tom of a welt shoe. As is Well understood, the welt requires to be beaten out or shaped after it has been sewed to the shoe at the inseam, because the welt is more or less distorted in the process of attaching it. This distortion is greatest at the toe of the shoe, and is sometimes particularly noticeable at the rear corners of the ball, where the welt is bent edgewise to conform to the edge contour'of the shoe. This bending of the welt causes it to curl up instead of standing out in a plane parallel with the innersole, which is the position it should occupy when the outersole is stitched to it. By supporting the welt upon one side and rubbing it upon the other side it is stretched lengthwise to an extent proportional to the rubbing pressure applied and so may be readily straightened out into desired shape. Preferably the pressure with which the welt is rubbed will be varied according to the requirements at difierent portlons of the shoe, being greatest where the welt 1s most distorted or curled up. The rubblng pressure may advantageously be greater on the outer marginal portion of the welt than on the portion nearer the inseam whereby the marginal portion will be stretched most. As the welt will preferably be treated while the leather is damp or in temper it can be easily worked and the operation of shaping or straightening out the welt can be very rapidly performed by this method. The work, whether the welt or the projecting edge portion of the sole, may advantageously be rubbed simultaneously upon both sides, the rubbing'means on one side supporting the work against the pressudre of the rubbing means on the opposite s1 e.

In another aspect the invention contemplates the application of heat to the rubbing means that engages the upper so that the portion of the upper, and preferably also the adjacent face of the sole or welt, engaged by this means in any of the before described uses of the machine may be ironed, or rubbed with a heated instrument, to smooth and polish its surface while the shoe is being shaped. This operation of ironing the upper at and adjacent to the edge of the shoe can beadvantageously performed simultaneously with the shaping or blockingof the shoe as no additional time is consumed by doing so. The rubbing means may be heated in any convenient way for ironing the shoe and as herein shown friction devices are provided for heating the rubbing roll,

The invention, which will be definitely pointed out in the claims, may be better understood from the accompanying drawings which show a mechanism that may be used in practising this invention, although it must be understood that the invention is independent of any particular mechanism and may be practised by hand.

Figure 1 is a side elevation; Fig. 2 illustrates the operation of treating the opposite faces of a turn shoe sole; Fig. 3 illustrates the operation of treating the edge face well as the side faces of a turn shoe sole; Fig. at illustrates the operation on a welt of a welted shoe; Fig. 5 illustrates the opera tion on a shoe before it is turned, or it may be a welt shoe before it is welted.

In the drawings the tools 24, 26 are rotated by a shaft 4, which is supported in hearings on suitable stands 6 and is driven by a belt 52, the former tool being a roll fast on the shaft and the latter may be a disk that is more or less securely held on the shaft 4, or it may be loose, and it can he slid along the shaft to clamp the sole by a bellcrank 28 depressible by a treadle 32 and a rod 83, a spring 30 raising the treadle and moving the disk away from the roll. The roll 24: has a blunt flange that can extend well into the crease between the sole and upper. The disk is preferably of somewhat larger diameter than the roll so that its edge portion can project beyond the periphery of the roll to engage the bottom of a shoe for some distance from the edge, as shown, for example, in Figs. 2, 4: and 5. It will be observed by reference to Fig. 5 that the disk is of suitable size and shape to force the upper material on the bottom of the shoe into the angle between the lip and feather edge of the innersole while it rubs and smooths the upper on the shoe bottom and the roll rubs and smooths the upper on the side of the shoe. The roll and disk arranged in the relation shown in this figure cooperate to shape the edge of the shoe. It is obvious that for performing this operation the roll and disk might be fixed with relation to each other or formed in one piece.

Some of the advantages of the invention would also be obtained by the use of a disk which was not positively driven or even if the disk were stationary and cooperated with the roll in shaping the edge of the shoe by merely supporting the upper or the sole or welt on the bot-tom of the shoe. Preferably, however, the disk and roll are bot-h driven and the disk is movable axially from and toward the roll. This permits the projecting edge portion of the bottom of a shoe,-as, for example, the sole of a turn shoe, see Figs. 2 and 3,or the welt of a welted shoe, see Fig. 4,-to be interposed between the adjacent end faces of the roll and disk. In the relation of the parts shown in Fig. 2 the upper and lower sides of the projecting portion of the sole are rubbed and shaped by the end faces of the disk and roll, While the side of the shoe is rubbed and shaped by the peripheral face of the roll. This operation is very useful for treating turn shoes in which it is especially important to shape the projecting edge of the sole which becomes more or less distorted in the operation of turning the shoe. It is also of great advantage to shape simultaneously the side of the shoe and the projecting edge of the sole because if these parts were shaped successively there would be a tendency to disturb the position of one of them while shaping the other. The pressure with which the opposite surfaces of the sole will be acted upon may be regulated by the operator by applying more or less force to the treadle 32. In Fig. 3 a modified construction is shown in which the roll has in its end faces a recess which receives a hub 38 on the disk 26. The hub forms a rubbing face for engagement with the edge face of the sole, whereby the sole may be shaped on its three faces simultaneously as illustrated in that figure.

For shaping the welt attached to a welt shoe, or the welt and the upper in and adjacent to the rand crease, the shoe is presented to the roll 24 and disk 20, as shown in Fig. 4, and the disk pressed against the lower face of the welt. The rubbing action of the roll and disk lengthwise of the welt tends to stretch the welt and straighten it where it is curled up at the toe and corners of the ball of the shoe. Preferably the welt rubbing face of the disk 20 is beveled slightly from its edge inwardly so that the welt is engaged more firmly along its marginal edge than nearer the inseam where little or no treatment is required. The pres sure of the disk upon the welt may be regulated by the treadle 32 to vary the force with which the welt is acted upon according to the conditions of the welt at different portions of the shoe. The spring 35 prevents the welt being gripped too tightly.

For heating the roll 24 a friction pin or block 4A is mounted in a bracket 4-5 in position to engage the end face of the roll 24-. The pressure of the friction pin against the roll is regulated by a screw 46. \Vhen the roll is heated the upper will be ironed, or rubbed with a hot instrument, to polish as well as to smooth and shape it.

In the practice of this invention with the aid of this machine a shoe, the upper and a portion of the bottom of which have been united in any usual way to produce a crease, herein termed the rand crease, between the upper at the side of the shoe and the projecting portion of the shoe bottom, will be presented to the tools according to the particular portions of the shoe it may be desired to treat or according to the nature of the shaping operation required.

For shaping a turn shoe with the roll 24: and disk 26, and according to the novel method herein disclosed, the edge portion of the sole projecting beyond the seam that connects the sole and upper is inserted between the roll and disk. The shoe is pressed against the roll and the disk is forced against the lower face of the sole. The upper is rubbed by the periphery of the roll to block the shoe while the disk supports and presses the upper face of the sole against the end face of the roll so that the upper and face of the sole in and adjacent to the rand crease are simultaneously shaped by rubbing pressure while the opposite face of the sole is supported. It is to be noted also that the disk is rotated and that the disk and end face of the roll each supports the projecting portion of the sole against the rubbing pressure of the other so that the projecting portion of the sole is shaped by rubbing pressure applied simultaneously to its opposite sides. The force with which the disk and roll press against the opposite faces of the sole will be regulated by the operator through the treadle. It will be observed that the flange or angular edge 25 of the roll enters the crease between the upper and the sole, thus opening and shaping this crease, and rubbing and smoothing the portions of the upper in and adjacent to they crease which will be visible in the completed shoe. By the cooperation of the roll and disk the edge portion of the sole and the side of the shoe are simultaneously shaped and are worked into the relative form and position determined by the contours of the roll and disk. By this method these portions of a turn shoe may be shaped with great rapidity and much better than can be done by treating the upper and the sole alternately. The labor required for this operation is very small as compared with that necessary when the operation is carried out as has heretofore been the practice.

As shown in Fig. 8 the edge face of the sole as well as its upper and lower faces may be rubbed and shaped while the upper on the side of the shoe is being blocked. For shaping the edge and marginal portion of the bottom of a welt shoe before the welt is attached to the same the disk 26 is moved into or substantially into engagement with the end face of the roll and the shoe is pressed against the roll and disk, as illustrated in Fig. 5. The blocking of the shoe is here done by the rubbing pressure upon the upper on the side of the shoe while the disk smooths the upper on the bottom of the shoe by rubbing pressure inwardly from the edge of the shoe to the shoulder formed by the upper lasted against the lip of the innersole. Preferably the disk is of such dimensions relatively to the roll that it rubs and presses the upper against the lip of the innersole. This operation produces a smooth and properly shaped seat for the welt which is to be attached to the upper and the lip of the innersole. The disk and roll also cooperate to shape the edge of the shoe at the junction of the side and bottom faces. For shaping the welt of a welted shoe, as shown in Fig. 41-, the procedure is very similar to that followed in shaping the projecting portion of the sole of a turn shoe. The beveled acting face of the disk engages the welt most firmly at the margin of the welt and the pressure of the disk against the lower face of the welt is varied by the foot treadle to secure the shaping and stretching action required at the different portions of the shoe. The roll blocks the upper at the side of the shoe while the welt is being shaped.

For convenience the term sole is used in the claims to designate the projecting edge portion of the shoe bottom, whether it be the sole alone or the sole and the welt or the welt alone.

Having explained the nature of this invention and described one of the ways in which it may be practised, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in supporting the projecting edge portion of the sole on its lower side and acting simultaneously upon the upper side of said projecting edge of the sole and upon an extended area of the adjacent portion of the upper to shape the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in supporting the projecting edge portion of the sole on its lower side and shaping the shoe by pressure applied simultaneously to the upper face of said projecting edge portion of the sole and to the adjacent portion of the upper.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in supporting the projecting edge portion of the sole on its lower side and shaping the shoe by pressure applied simultaneously to the upper face of said projecting edge portion of the sole and to the adjacent portion of the upper in directions approximately perpendicular to said faces.

4:. That improvement in methods of mak ing shoes which consists in supporting the projecting edge portion of the sole on its lower side and rubbing simultaneously the upper face of said projecting edge portion of the sole and the adjacent portions of the upper on the side of the shoe.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in uniting a shoe upper and a portion of the shoe bottom in such relation as to form between the upper of the side of the shoe and a projecting portion of the shoe bottom a rand crease and then shaping the shoe by rubbing pressure applied by a heated instrument simultaneously to the adjacent faces of the upper and sole in the rand crease.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in rubbing the opposite surfaces of the projecting edge portion of the sole of a shoe and simultaneously rubbing the upper on the side of the shoe In testimony whereof I have signed my with a heated instrument. name to this specification in the presence of 10 7. That improvement in methods of maktwo subscribing Witnesses. ing shoes Which consists in applying rub- AMELIA A. BAYARD, 5 bing pressure to the adjacent faces of the Ewecutria; 0f the will of Emory Bayard.

upper and Welt in the rand crease While Witnesses: supporting the lower face of the Welt against G. WILLARD R1011, displacement. TERnssA H. BAYARD.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

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