US1072908A

US1072908A - Method and apparatus for making patterns.

Info

Publication number: US1072908A
Application number: US71863612A
Authority: US
Inventors: Pasquale Buda
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1912-09-05
Filing date: 1912-09-05
Publication date: 1913-09-09
Anticipated expiration: 1930-09-09

Description

P. BUDA.

METHOD AND APPARATUS POB. MAKING PATTERNS.

APPLIUATION FILED SEPT. 5, 1912.

Patented Sept. 9, 1913.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

` In ven tot:

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P. BUDA.

METHOD AND APPARATUS POB. MAKING PATTERNS.

Y APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 5, 1912.

1,072,908. Patented Sept. 9, 1913.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

In ven tor:

coLuMBM ELANOGRAPH co.. WASHINGTON. D. c.

- P. BUDA.

METHOD AND APPARATUS POR MAKING PATTERNS.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 5, 1912.

1,072,908, Patented Sept. 9, 1913.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

In Venter:

-/D l by QJM V ne Ar T FFIQ.

PASQUALE BUDA, or NEW YORK, 1v. Y.

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING PATTERNS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 9, t 913.

Application filed September 5, 1912. Serial No. 718,636.

` To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, PASQUALE BUDA, a

subject of the King of Italy, residing inV the borough'of Manhattan of the city of New York, in the county of New York, in the State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods and Apparatus for Making Patterns, of which the following `is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which form a part hereof.

This invention relates to a method of and apparatus lfor' making patterns for suits,

Y cloaks, skirts and other articles of wearing apparel and' it has for its object particularly toenable the tailor, to make'such patterns more correctly, cheaply and quickly than has heretofore been possible.

By the usual method the prospective wearer is measured at many different points of the figure and the pattern is drawn from these measurements. Obviously here the skill acquired by extensive experience and the inherent ability of the tailor are important factors in the production of a pattern which shall be symmetrical in every detail and so insure a correct fit of the garment cut therefrom. In practice, the in-V adequacy of such patterns requires that the purchaser submit to several fittings after the cloth is cut. This method results in a great expenditure of time and labor by the workman as well'as bythe customer, and instead of the pattern fulfilling its function as such, thegarment is really built onv the person( In accordance with this invention a system is employed, by means of suitable ap-` paratus, by which only a few principal measurements need be taken and from which a pattern of correct proportion may be drawn for the person measured, no fittings being required, and this may be done with ease and great despatch by theworkman remeasurements be employed in the drafting.

This feature eliminates the human element to the greatest possible extent consistent with the production of proper patterns and so enables an apprentice to design with a skill nearly equal to that of an experienced tailor. Y

From the advantages above pointed out it results necessarily that the present method cheapens the cost of production of tailored garments materially.

This invention will be more fully described with reference to the accompanying drawings in which- Y Figure l is a view in perspective of an apparatus embodying the invention and by which the method may be practised. Fig. lLL is a view in plan on an enlarged scale of the graduated frame by which the shape of the pattern is generally determined and showing a pattern for a plain sack coat drawn in accordance with the invention. Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view in detail of a side frame member of the apparatus and showing the means for setting the guide lines in different positions. Fig. 3 is a view taken on the plane indicated by the line 3-3 of Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view of a frame member showing the ring for connecting adjacent spring spacers for the guide wires. Fig. 5 is a view taken on the plane indicated by the line 5 5 of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a perspective view showing in detail the corner joints of the side frame members. Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic view .indicating the pattern of a sleeve drawnV in accordance with the presentA invention.

The preferred embodiment of the apparatus. for practising the improved method for making patterns is herein illustrated but as this description proceeds it will be evident that a system is employed in the use of which, apparatus of different constructions, although perhaps of somewhat similar characters, will serve the purpose.

In carrying out the invention the apparatus may be mounted on and secured to' a table a on one end of which is mounted by brackets a roll carrying paper suitable for patterns. On the opposite end of the table is mounted on brackets c a second roll c to'receive the paper when it is rotated, as by means of a crank c2. A guide roll Z may be mounted on the brackets c between the table and the winding roll c so that the paper passes thereover in its movement forward. The feeding and carrying devices thus far described maybe changed to suit dilferent conditions of use or the apparat-us to be described hereinafter in ay be employed independently thereof.

Referring now particularly to Fig. la, it will be seen that the system is carried out. by means of a rectangular frame comprising side strips c, preferably graduated in inches, and end strips f, preferably gi'aduated into units of live-eighths of an inch each, for reasons to be later pointed out.

These strips are connected at the several corners in any suitable manner, the construction shown in Fig. G having been found to insure rigidity. In this ligure it appears that each end strip f has its upper and lower faces rabbeted and its mid-section horizontally grooved, adjacent its ends and each side strip e has its extremities correspondingly formed to receive the extremities of the adjacent end strips. ln this manner abutting surfaces tending to insure rigidity are obtained, while relative movement of the strips is prevented by suitable bolts g.

Between opposite sides of the frame are extended movable wires or like members h, which form a plurality of rectangles within the frame. In the embodiment shown, six such wires extend longitudinally of the frame and eleven transversely thereto, although it is to be understood that the invention is in no sense limited to the dimensions of the apparatus, or to the number of wires used. The wires e and f nearest the Zero of each strip, which are immovable and which will be hereinafter termed the base wires, are attached to their respective frame members e and at a suitable distance from that corner which is nearest the Zero of the scales, so as to leave clearance spaces for a purpose which will later appear. rlhe remaining wires 7i are iiiter-connected at their ends by means of rubber bands or other elastic members z' and metallic rings z" which engage adjacent bands andV which slide in grooves f2 and e2 formed in the several strips, all of which is shown in Figs. l and 5. The side stripsV are, of course, recessed on their inner faces to permit movementV of the wires i, as appears in said figures. By the arrangement just described, it will be evident that if any wire be moved with respect to its zero mark then the other wires between it and the base wire will also be moved by reason of the interconnection of the ends of the wires through the rings z" and rubber bands z', the wires being attached to their respective rings by suitable hooks It formed thereon intermediate the points of attachment of the adjacent bands. Ordinarily it is best to employ one band between the corresponding extremities of each two adjacent wires. In practice, each end of the sixt-h or last longitudinal wire 7L is attached to a movable clamping member 7c which may be provided with a guide flange 7c engaging a ing flanges e3 on the strips e. To the ends Y of the fourth transverse wireare attached similar clamping members l.

ln describing the operation of the systeni it will be assumed thatfa pattern for a sack coat is to be drawn and as'the'description proceeds, it will be seen just'why the scales are arranged. as shown in the drawings and also just ,why the number ofV wires is determinate. The zero of the scale o-ii the end strips f is three and: three'quarters inches from the base wire ffor reasons of convenience to bepointedout. The chest of the customer is measured and it is to-be assumed that it is thirty-four inches7 that being the most common chest measurement.VV

he tailor may then set the clamps 7c of the sixth longitudinal wire hon the scale mark ii-ft. Since each scale Vdivisionfis fiveeighths of an inch, thirty-four j such divisions and one-quarter inches, which, added to span adistance of twenty-oneV the distance between the base wire and lthe zerothree and three quarter inches--` makes a. total of twenty-five inches between the base wire and the sixthVV wire.

This distance is divided into tive` equal spaces by the six longitudinal wiresso that each space includes live inches.l vSince theV extreme width of a pattern` for one-half of a coat of which the chest measurement is thirty-four inches, is about nineteen inches, inclusive of the allowance for huttons and seams, it will beV obvious that the pattern maker n-eed work only within theV space spanned by four such five inch spaces. The measurement of the length of the coat having been gotten, the operatormoves theV clamp 7i: attached to the extremities of the eleventh transverse wire until the seventh wire coincides with the proper scale division. This measurement maybe assumed to be thirty inches as shown in thedrawings, in which case the crossing wires would form squares, being tive inches apart. seventh wire is designated arbitrarilyas the one to set on the proper scale mark since forv sack coats'it has been found that the patterns usually fall within a space four spaces wide and six spaces long. VThe' measurement from the back of the n-eckto the waist line is usually taken and the clamps Z, attached to the fourth wire, are moved Vuntil that wire coincides witht-he proper scale mark, when they are secured immovably.

The workman now has before him these Y twenty-four squares with the many fixed The points determined by the intersection of the wires, while the wires themselves serve as guides during the drafting of the pattern. The actual drafting may be done by an eX- perienced operater without the aid of an illustration but for apprentices it is desirable to place before them t-he illustration of a similar pattern drawn within the same number of squares. Such an illustration, it will be understood, is made up in the first place by placing a model pattern in the desired position under the cross wires which have been properly set and tracing on a transparent sheet placed over the wires its position with respect to the wires. Such a tracing may be used indeiintely there after as a model guide for that particular style of garment. Other methods of procuring illustrations showing theV relation of a model pattern to the guide wires may be employed, the invention not being concerned with this phase of the system. By constantly followf-in'g the illustration, the tailor may outline easily a pattern which will b-e proportional thereto at all points and this too even though the principal measurements differ.

For a thirty-six inch chest the sixth transverse wire will be clamped on the 36 mark thus widening out each of the tive spac-es the same amount by reason of the interposed elastic connections, all of which are of substantially the vsame degree of elasticity. Then too, if the coat be forty inches, the seventh transverse wire will be clamped on the 40 mark. Perhaps the small rectangles formedfby the wires will not be squares but this is immaterial. The wire determining the waist line will then be set and the workman may draw a pattern in absolute proportion to the same illustration above referred to and this pattern will be correct for the gure measured. The invention is concerned primarily with the provision of a method by which a workman is so guided in his drawing that patterns of all measurementsy are symmetrical and proportional to each other. Slight irregularities in the figure may be noted by the tailor and proper provision made at that part when the pattern is drawn. By means of this invention such an allowance may be easily and properly made since the other portions of the figure and the relative measurements thereof are always indicated to the workman by certain of the wires t.

Without feeding forward more paper after the coat is drawn and without changing any of the settings of the wire, the patterns for the sleeves may be drawn easily, the length thereof having been gotten by measurement. A sleeve may be most easily made in a space two rectangles wide and four rectangles long as shown in'F ig. 7. There it is assumed that the wires are set as deof theA guide wires a sleeve in proportion to the model illustration may be easily drawn by him and that too regardless of the actual measurements thereof. In like manner the patterns of the trousers of the prospective wearer may be drawn, the tailor taking the principal measurements of length and waist and drawing the pattern in proportion to that of a model pattern previously traced, the setting of the wire for any one customer remaining unchanged, as pointed out in connection with the sleeve patterns.

It will now be obvious that patterns for garments of any character including skirts, uniforms, evening clothes, etc., may be drawn readily, the one requisite being that the tailor have a few of the principal measurements and a model pattern for each different garment to indicate to him the relation of the several wires to thevarious points of the figure.' The correct proportions for these `arious points of the figure are maintained always as above pointed out, by reason of the equal movement of all of the wires due to the same degree of elasticity of the connecting bands i.

After the pattern or patterns desired are drawn, the paper may be drawn forward by the winding roll c, cut transversely along a line between said roll and the guide roll d, and taken therefrom to the cutting table. rlhe free end of the clean paper is then attached to the winding roll c and other patterns drawn by the system before described.

What I claim is:

l. An apparatus for making patterns comprising a frame, a series of intersecting members supported movably thereby, said members forming a plurality of rectangles, elastic means connecting the corresponding ends of adjacent members, and means'cooperating with said elastic means for adjusting said members to form said rectangles of predetermined dimensions.

2. An apparatus for making patterns comprising a rectangular frame, intersecting wires supported by the sides of said frame and forming small rectangular spaces, two of said intersecting wires being immovable, means for remo-ving the remaining of said wires to adjust the dimensions of said rectangular spaces, said means including elastic means connecting the corresponding ends of adjacent wires.

3. An apparatus for making patterns' 4. An apparatus for making patternsA comprising a rectangular frame having its side and end members graduated into units, Wires-extending longitudinally of the frame between the end members, Wires extending transversely to the frame between the side members, said Wires forming a series of small rectangular spaces oi" equal area, the iirst of said transverse Wires commencing with the zero of the scale on the side members and being immovable, the first of said longitudinal Wires being immovable, the remaining of said Wires being movable to vary the dimensions of said rectangular spaces,

elastic members connecting the corresponding ends of adjacent Wires and means mounted slidably on the side and end members'of the :trame and attached to the ends of the last transverse Wire and the last longitudinal Wire respectively whereby all of said Wires may be moved to coincide with predetermined scale units.

5. An apparatus for making patterns comprising a rectangular frame having its mounted in said frame and to which the ends of said wires are attached, elastic members -connecting adjacentv rings, means mounted slidably on said side frame members and attached to the ends of the last of the series of transverse k'Wires Vwhereby all of the last named Wires may be moved to coincide, With predetermined scale units and means mounted slidably on said end frame members and attached to the ends of the last of the series of longitudinal Wires whereby said last named Wires may beV moved, the number of longitudinal Wires being such that the distance `between the first and last of said longitudinal Wires will be divided into a number of spaces of any predetermined convenient length when the last of said Wires coincides with a predetermined scale unit.

This specification signed and witnessed this 3rd day of September A. D., 1912.

PASQUALE BUDA.

Signed in the presence of- CHARLES RICCO, Y VORTHINGTON CAMPBELL.

Copies of this patent may 'ne obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Y

Washington, D. G3