US1018130A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Sewing-machine. Download PDF

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Publication number
US1018130A
US1018130A US63164611A US1911631646A US1018130A US 1018130 A US1018130 A US 1018130A US 63164611 A US63164611 A US 63164611A US 1911631646 A US1911631646 A US 1911631646A US 1018130 A US1018130 A US 1018130A
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United States
Prior art keywords
needle
machine
sewing
loop
shoe
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US63164611A
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Thomas Gustave Plant
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USM Ltd
United Shoe Machinery Co AB
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United Shoe Machinery Co AB
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods

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  • the present invention relates to chain stitch shoe sewing machines of that class which employ a curved hooked needle and which are used to sew the inseam of turned and welted shoes.
  • the hooked needle passes forward through the loop of thread previously drawn out by the needle and through the work so as to present its empty hook in position to receive a new s11 ply of thread.
  • the thread is then laid 1n the hook of .the needle by means of a looper and the needle retracts, drawing with it a' new loop of thread through the work and through the previous loop.
  • the needle be brought to rest out of engagement with the shoe to enable the shoe which has been sewed to be removed from the ma chine and another shoe to be placed in the machine in the proper position with relation to the needle 'and the other operating parts of the machine.
  • the loop of thread last drawn through the work by the needle be freed from the hook of'the needle and from the other-thread handling devices, if any, which act upon the needle loop;
  • the thread lies in the hook of the needle during the entire re-' I tracting stroke of the needle so that when of the. machine in order :to ires the needle is brought to rest at or near the limit of its backward stroke sufficiently reand leave the needle at rest in retracted position out of engagement with the shoe.
  • the object of the present invention is to A. relation to each other and to the work as to offer no obstacle to the immediate removal of the shoe from the machine when the machine is stopped or any obstacle to the insertion of another shoe in the' machine in the proper position with relation to the needle and other operating parts of the machine.
  • the present invention contemplates the provision in a chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machine provided with a hooked needle and a looper, .of means whereby at the conclusion of the sewing operation when the machine is stopped, the last needle loop will be freed from the needle and other stitch forming devices, if any, which act on the needle loop, ,and the needle will be brought to rest out of engagement with the work.
  • the invention o0ntemplates the provision of any suitable means to cause the desired manipulation of the needle loop and needle at the conclusion of the sewing operation to free the needle .loop from the stitch forming devices and bring the needle to rest so that neither the thread nor the needle will oflfer any obstacle to the immediate removal of the shoe from the machine.
  • the prethe provision of means whereby the needle can "be retracted while its hook is empty By retracting the needle without any thread engaged in its hook, the empty needle can be brought to rest outof engagement with the work and with its hook free from the last needle loop so that neitherthe needle nor the thread will offer anyobstac'le to the immediate removal of the shoe.
  • the preferred form of the invention contemplates securing the retraction of the needle w ile its hook is empty hyta reversal in the cycle of opera -.the machine. Also, to insure the freeing of the last needle loop from the hook of'the needle, which is apt to stick therein'by I chanical embodiment of the invention, and.
  • the preferred form of the invention contemplates reversing the cycle of operations of the ma chine after the needle in its forward movement has pierced the work and the last nee- :dle loop has been pushed out of thebarb of the needle by the contact of the loop'with the work.
  • FIG. 2 is a front elevation of the upper [or headv portion. of
  • FIG. 3 is a detached detail" "on an enlarged scale showing the operatin connections between the stop finger slide an its actuating lever;
  • Fig. 4 is a detached side viewv partly in section, showing the hooked or barbed needle, its ope'rating means, and the position of the needle with relation to the workwhen-the cycle of operations'of the machine is reversedi '
  • FIG. 7 is a view similar to that of Fig. 5, showing the relation of the p'arts of the reversing mechanism when the needle has been brought to rest in-the posi tion indicated in Fig. 6;
  • Figs. 8,9, 10, 11 and 12 are detail views illustrating some. what diagrammatically the operations which are performed at the conclusion of the sewing operationto free the thread from the needle and bring the needle to rest out of engagement with the shoe.
  • the back rest 10', the back gage 11, the feed slide actuating lever 13 and its operating cam 14 may all be of any preunnecessary herein.
  • hub 30 of the clutch member 29 is loosely The engaged by a collar 31 connected to the bifurcated arm 32 OfJa'cIutch actuating lever pivotally mounted at 33 and having an arm 34 connected at 35 to a treadle rod 36 which is connected to the starting and stopping treadle of the machine.
  • the machine illustrated in the drawings does not differ essentially from welt sewing machines of the prior art, thestit-c'h forming devices being actuated in regular sequence in the usual .manner so long as the starting'and stopping treadle' is held depressed and the clutc member 29 in engagement with the member 28. -To enable theneedle and thread to be put into such condition with relation to,
  • FIG. 8 the needle isshown as just startin on its forward stroke, at which time, as is clearly shown in the figure, the last needle loop'd is held snugly in the hook of the needle.
  • Fig. 9 shows the needle as havingadvan-ced nearly into engagement with the work, the last needle loop at still nommp remaining in the hook of the needle on account of the tendency of the waxed thread to stick to the needle.
  • Fig. 10 the needle has completed its forward movement and has passed through the last needle loop d,
  • the reversal in the cycle of operations of the machine after the needle has penetrated the work is produced by means of a coiled spring 39, one end of whichisat- 40 -ta-ohed to the inner surface of the fast clutch member 28 at 40 and the other end of which is attached at 38 to the hub of an arm 37 loosely mounted upon the driving shaft 4.
  • the arm 37 rotates with the fast clutch member 28 and shaft 4:.
  • the movement of the arm 37 is arrested.
  • Arresting the arm 37 causes the spring 39 to be wound up by the continued rotation of the clutch-member 28 under the influence of the machine momentum. Assoon as the momentum of the machine is overcome the spring 39 unwinds thereby rotating the main shaft 4 of the machine backward and reversing the cycle of operations of the ma- 60 chine.
  • the means for arresting the rotation of the arm 37 consists of a stop arm 46 connected to the starting and stopping treadle and arranged to be moved thereby into and out of the path of a shoulder 59 at the outer enlarged end 58 of the arm 37. As indicated the arm 37,
  • the stop arm 46 To enable the stop arm 46 to be movedinto and out of the path of the projection 59 at the outer end of the arm 37, the stop arm is carried by a slide 45 mounted'to move longitudinally on a stud 43, the slide 45 is actuated from the starting and stoppin treadle by means of a connecting rod 5 an a lever 51, the vertical arm 50 of which is provided with a stud 49 engaging ln s 48 projecting downwardly from the sli e 45 and the horizontal arm 56 of whichhas a pin-and-slot connecti n wit-h the connecting rod 57.
  • This pin-and-slot connection permits the lever 51 to be moved by means of itsprojecting handle 58 to move the stop. finger 46 without actuating the .clutch member 29.
  • the machine illustrated'in the drawings is provided with a suitablebrake in the form of a brake band 62, encircling; the fast clutch member 28.
  • One endofthis band is connected to a rod 63 adjust-ably secured to the machine frame btheadjust ing and holding nut 65 and t e other end of the band is connected bymeanscf a. link 68 to onearm of an elbow lever 70.- .
  • the other arm of this elbow lever is provided with a roll 72 projecting into the path of a cam surface 73 on the lever 51,3211 arrangement being such that whentheRl've'r 51 is actuated in starting the machine, ithe' elbqwi.
  • ing devices including a eurved hooked needle and a looper and means, operating automatically'upon stopping the machine, tureverse the cycle of operatlons after the needle has .penetxeted the Work and cause the needle 20 to retract while its hook is empty and come j to rest out of. engagement with the work.- 7 Intestimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of five cents each, y addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Waishington, I G. e

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

T. e. PLANT. SEWING MACHINE. APPLIOATION FILED JUNE 6, 1911.
Patented Feb. 20, 1912.
6 SHEETS-SHEET 1- T. G. PLANT.
SEWING MACHINE.
I APPLIUATIQN FILED JUNE 6, 1911. 1,018,130. Patented Feb. 20, 1912.
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- fa z gz'ineaaeg T. G. PLANT."
' SEWING MACHINE. APiLIOATION FILED JUNE 6, 1911.
' 1,018,130. 7 Patented Feb. 20, 15112.
5 SHEETS SHEET s.
T. G. PLANT. SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 6, 1911.
5 SHEEN-SHEET 4.
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Patented Feb. 20,1912.
UNITED STATES .PATEN T OFFICE- THOMAS GUSTAVE PLANT, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS,-A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.
SEWING-MACHINE.
Specification of Letters E's/tent.
Patented Feb. 20, 1912-.
Application filed June 6, 1911. Serial No. 631,646.
To all whom it may concern:
'Be it known that I, THOMAS G. PLANT, a citizen of the -United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.
The present invention relates to chain stitch shoe sewing machines of that class which employ a curved hooked needle and which are used to sew the inseam of turned and welted shoes.
In the operation of machines of the class referredto, in sewing aseam, the hooked needle passes forward through the loop of thread previously drawn out by the needle and through the work so as to present its empty hook in position to receive a new s11 ply of thread. The thread is then laid 1n the hook of .the needle by means of a looper and the needle retracts, drawing with it a' new loop of thread through the work and through the previous loop. These movements of the needle and looper are repeated in regular sequence during each cycle of operations of the machine. At the completion of the sewing operation it is necessary-that the needle be brought to rest out of engagement with the shoe to enable the shoe which has been sewed to be removed from the ma chine and another shoe to be placed in the machine in the proper position with relation to the needle 'and the other operating parts of the machine. Before the shoe can be removed, it is also necessary that the loop of thread last drawn through the work by the needle be freed from the hook of'the needle and from the other-thread handling devices, if any, which act upon the needle loop; During the normal operation of the machine-in sewing a seam the thread lies in the hook of the needle during the entire re-' I tracting stroke of the needle so that when of the. machine in order :to ires the needle is brought to rest at or near the limit of its backward stroke sufficiently reand leave the needle at rest in retracted position out of engagement with the shoe.
The object of the present invention is to A. relation to each other and to the work as to offer no obstacle to the immediate removal of the shoe from the machine when the machine is stopped or any obstacle to the insertion of another shoe in the' machine in the proper position with relation to the needle and other operating parts of the machine. Y
With the above object in view, the present invention contemplates the provision in a chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machine provided with a hooked needle and a looper, .of means whereby at the conclusion of the sewing operation when the machine is stopped, the last needle loop will be freed from the needle and other stitch forming devices, if any, which act on the needle loop, ,and the needle will be brought to rest out of engagement with the work.
Broadly-considered, the invention o0ntemplates the provision of any suitable means to cause the desired manipulation of the needle loop and needle at the conclusion of the sewing operation to free the needle .loop from the stitch forming devices and bring the needle to rest so that neither the thread nor the needle will oflfer any obstacle to the immediate removal of the shoe from the machine. To avoid the use of additional devices to act on the needle loop, the prethe provision of means whereby the needle can "be retracted while its hook is empty. By retracting the needle without any thread engaged in its hook, the empty needle can be brought to rest outof engagement with the work and with its hook free from the last needle loop so that neitherthe needle nor the thread will offer anyobstac'le to the immediate removal of the shoe. To still further simplify the construction and avoid the use ofdevices or mechanism tending to increase the complexity of the operating partsofthe machine, the preferred form of the invention 'further contemplates securing the retraction of the needle w ile its hook is empty hyta reversal in the cycle of opera -.the machine. Also, to insure the freeing of the last needle loop from the hook of'the needle, which is apt to stick therein'by I chanical embodiment of the invention, and.
will be referred to,'as the description-pro ,ceeds, to make clear' the broad features that characterize the invention without, however,
vati'on of a welter'embo yin the present 1nvent1on,-somuc only- 20i. said reason of the wax on the thread, the preferred form of the invention contemplates reversing the cycle of operations of the ma chine after the needle in its forward movement has pierced the work and the last nee- :dle loop has been pushed out of thebarb of the needle by the contact of the loop'with the work. j
The drawings accom anyin this descri tion show .a chain stitc 1 machine for attac i-ng waits to welt shoes as a convenient melimiting the inventionto the means-shown except 1n so far as announced by-theelainis.
In said drawings :'--Fi one form of machine 'being'illustrated as seems desirable to make clear. the association of parts pertaining to said invention; Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the upper [or headv portion. of
the machine withsome of theparts omitted orbroken away; Fig. 3 is a detached detail" "on an enlarged scale showing the operatin connections between the stop finger slide an its actuating lever; Fig. 4 is a detached side viewv partly in section, showing the hooked or barbed needle, its ope'rating means, and the position of the needle with relation to the workwhen-the cycle of operations'of the machine is reversedi 'Fig. 5 is a sectional side elevation on the line 55 Fig. 2, show ing therelation of the parts of the reversing -mechanism when the needle is in the position indicated in Fig. iwFig. 6 is a view similar te-that of Fig. 4, with the-needle in retracted position; Fig. 7 is a view similar to that of Fig. 5, showing the relation of the p'arts of the reversing mechanism when the needle has been brought to rest in-the posi tion indicated in Fig. 6; Figs. 8,9, 10, 11 and 12 are detail views illustrating some. what diagrammatically the operations which are performed at the conclusion of the sewing operationto free the thread from the needle and bring the needle to rest out of engagement with the shoe.
The frame of the machine illustrated in the drawings comprises a column 1., provided at its upper portion with a plate or support 2, from which rise arms or standards 3, which arms or standards furnish bearings for the driving or main shaft 4: from which the'stitch forming devices a actuated. Y
The channel guide 5 of the machine, the awl 6, the looper 7, the thread finger-8, the
'- welt guide 9, the back rest 10', the back gage 11, the feed slide actuating lever 13 and its operating cam 14 may all be of any preunnecessary herein.
.19, Connected to the no re 1 is'a side ele ferred construction and'assembled in operative relation'suitable to the purposes intended; and as these features'of the machine and their operative connection with the main shaft 4 are well understood by those skilled in the art, a detailed description thereof and their" manner of operation is The -mechanism for sup orting and actusting the needle during. t e, normal operation'of'the machine in sewing a seam is the same as is commonly used in this class of machines and comprises a support 15 and'a needle carrier 16 mounted to. oscillate there on and having secured thereto by a clam 17 a curved needle 18 havin a hook or bar e carrier at 20 is'the link21 which connects the needle car rier toth'e'cam actuated lever 22 pivoted at 2 3 and having an arm 24; carrying a roller 25 en aging with a cam groove 26 in the cam dis 27 secured to. the main shaft 4.
Secured to the driving shaft 4, is one member 28, (Figs. land 2) of a clutch, the
'-loos'e member 29 whereof may bedrivcn from any suitable source of power. hub 30 of the clutch member 29 is loosely The engaged by a collar 31 connected to the bifurcated arm 32 OfJa'cIutch actuating lever pivotally mounted at 33 and having an arm 34 connected at 35 to a treadle rod 36 which is connected to the starting and stopping treadle of the machine.
As so .far described, the machine illustrated in the drawings does not differ essentially from welt sewing machines of the prior art, thestit-c'h forming devices being actuated in regular sequence in the usual .manner so long as the starting'and stopping treadle' is held depressed and the clutc member 29 in engagement with the member 28. -To enable theneedle and thread to be put into such condition with relation to,
eachother and to the work as to offer no obstacle to the immediate removal of the shoe from the machine when the machine is stopped, the machine illustrated in the engagement withjthe shoe, will be clearly understoodfrom an inspection of Figs. 8 to '12 inclusive. In Fig. 8 the needle isshown as just startin on its forward stroke, at which time, as is clearly shown in the figure, the last needle loop'd is held snugly in the hook of the needle. Fig. 9 shows the needle as havingadvan-ced nearly into engagement with the work, the last needle loop at still nommp remaining in the hook of the needle on account of the tendency of the waxed thread to stick to the needle. In Fig. 10 the needle has completed its forward movement and has passed through the last needle loop d,
the welt a, the upper b and the between substance of the insole c. In case the needle loop at sticks in the hook of the needle, the
loop is brought into engagement with the' surface of the welt a as the needle pierces the Work and thus pushed out of the hook, so that by no possibility can the last needle loop be caught by the hook of the needle during its retracting stroke. After the needle reaches the position indicated in Fig. the cycle of operations of the machine is reversed so that the needle is retracted with its hook empty, the retraction taking place either before the thread has been laid about the needle by the looper, or after the looper has removed the thread from around the needle in case the cycle of operations has not been reversed before the. looper has encircled the needle. During its retracting stroke the empty needle withdraws from the last needle loop as indicated in Fig. 11 and finally comes to rest outof engagement with the work as indicated in F ig. 12. From. an inspectionof this figure it will readily be 30 seen that the needle and thread are in such condition with relation -to each other and to the work 'as to offer no obstacle to the immediate removal of the shoe from the ma-' chine.
In the machine illustrated in the. drawings, the reversal in the cycle of operations of the machine after the needle has penetrated the work is produced by means of a coiled spring 39, one end of whichisat- 40 -ta-ohed to the inner surface of the fast clutch member 28 at 40 and the other end of which is attached at 38 to the hub of an arm 37 loosely mounted upon the driving shaft 4. During the normal operation of the machine in sewing a seam the arm 37 rotates with the fast clutch member 28 and shaft 4:. During the last cycle of operations of the machine, however, at the completion of the sewing operation, and after the clutch member 29has been separated from the member 28, the movement of the arm 37 is arrested. Arresting the arm 37 causes the spring 39 to be wound up by the continued rotation of the clutch-member 28 under the influence of the machine momentum. Assoon as the momentum of the machine is overcome the spring 39 unwinds thereby rotating the main shaft 4 of the machine backward and reversing the cycle of operations of the ma- 60 chine. The means for arresting the rotation of the arm 37 consists of a stop arm 46 connected to the starting and stopping treadle and arranged to be moved thereby into and out of the path of a shoulder 59 at the outer enlarged end 58 of the arm 37. As indicated the arm 37,
To enable the stop arm 46 to be movedinto and out of the path of the projection 59 at the outer end of the arm 37, the stop arm is carried by a slide 45 mounted'to move longitudinally on a stud 43, the slide 45 is actuated from the starting and stoppin treadle by means of a connecting rod 5 an a lever 51, the vertical arm 50 of which is provided with a stud 49 engaging ln s 48 projecting downwardly from the sli e 45 and the horizontal arm 56 of whichhas a pin-and-slot connecti n wit-h the connecting rod 57. This pin-and-slot connection permits the lever 51 to be moved by means of itsprojecting handle 58 to move the stop. finger 46 without actuating the .clutch member 29. i
To assist in bringin the machine to rest after the separation o the clutch members 29 and 28, the machine illustrated'in the drawings is provided with a suitablebrake in the form of a brake band 62, encircling; the fast clutch member 28. One endofthis band is connected to a rod 63 adjust-ably secured to the machine frame btheadjust ing and holding nut 65 and t e other end of the band is connected bymeanscf a. link 68 to onearm of an elbow lever 70.- .The other arm of this elbow lever is provided with a roll 72 projecting into the path of a cam surface 73 on the lever 51,3211 arrangement being such that whentheRl've'r 51 is actuated in starting the machine, ithe' elbqwi. lever is rocked in a directionftofrelease the pressure of the brake band 62. A-spring; 74 connected tothe elbow leve'rf 70 'moiv the lever in a. direction to apply the brak band to the clutch member 28. '1
The nature and scope of the present .in vention havin been indicated, and aQma chine embodying the present invention. in, its preferred form having been specifically; described,what is claimed is:-
1. A chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machine, having, in combinatiom-stitch rming devices including a curved hooked needle 1 and a looper and means, acting automatically upon stopping the machine, to free the last needle loop from the stitch forming de vices and bring the needle to rest out of engagement with the work.
and a looper' and means, acting automatieally upon stopping the machine, to retract the needle While its'hook is empty'and bring 1 the needlefto rest out of engagement withthe-work;
,2 3{-'A-eehain stitch inseam shoe sewing ma -cfhine',j having, ineombinat-ion, stitch formingxlevices including a curved hooked needle and a looper and means, acting aut0meti- .1'0.
eally upon stopping'the machineytereverse the cycle of'o' perations and causethe' needle to retract. whlle its hookis empty and come to rest outof engagement with the work.v
4. A-chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machine, having', iii-combination, stitch f0rm Copiesfof this patent mayube obtained 01;
ing devices including a eurved hooked needle and a looper and means, operating automatically'upon stopping the machine, tureverse the cycle of operatlons after the needle has .penetxeted the Work and cause the needle 20 to retract while its hook is empty and come j to rest out of. engagement with the work.- 7 Intestimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of five cents each, y addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Waishington, I G. e
US63164611A 1911-06-06 1911-06-06 Sewing-machine. Expired - Lifetime US1018130A (en)

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