US1016552A - Method of making shirts. - Google Patents

Description

A. J. GUMNOGK. METHOD OF MAKING SHIRTS. APPLICATION FILED mm: 9, 1910.

1,016,552. Patented'Feb.6,1912.

COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH Co..\\'AsN|NGTON. 0.1:.

TINT

ARTHUR J. CUMNOCK, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

ivrn'rnon or MAKING snin'rs.

orasea.

Original application filed July 2'7, 1906, Serial No. 328,128.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 6, 1912.

Divided and this application filed June 9, 1910.

Serial No. 566,019.

To all whom 2'2 may concern Be it known that I, ARTHUR J. CUMNOGK, a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the borough of Manhattan and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Shirts, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a method of making shirts or similar articles. The method preferably concerns itself with making shirts from tubular webs, but is capable of adaptation to a single fabric folded into tubular form, as will be explained more fully hereafter.

The main feature of the invention con sists in forming a web or similar part with the yoke portion and in forming the article from said web such that by a final folding operation, parts of dissimilar contour can bebrought one above the other for the finishing operation, the article itself retaining the selvages of the original web, thereby simplifying the finishing operation.

There is preferably illustrated herein a complete tubular web, and after the said web has been folded with the selvages superposed, the front and back portions may be formed by the mechanism described in my co-pending application, Serial Number 328,128, filed July 27th, 1906 of which this present application is a division, or in any other suitable way. Thereafter the article itself is folded into a position, such that the creases of the fold extend along the selvages or along longitudinal lines projecting from the arm scye portions, thereby bringing the front and back portions into superposed po sition ready for the finishing operation.

In a general way, the method is in forming the articles such as shirts, or other similar articles, having portions of dissimilar contour that must be sewed orsecured to- Fig. 2 is a plan view of the web folded into the initlal posit-ion, showing the articles formed or cut therefrom by the means provided in said application, Serial Number 328,128 or in any suitable way.

Referring to the drawings, the selvages are indicated by 1, and as shown in Fig. 2 the web is given an initial fold such that the selvages are located substantially at the center of the blank or web, and while the indented web is in this position, the portions of the shirt may be cut therefrom by hand or by any other mechanism, preferably that shown in said co-pending application. The front portion of the shirt is indicated by l, and the back portion of the shirt is indicated by 3, and as shown in Fig. 2 the initial position of the parts is such that the neck portions 2 are located at the edges of the blanks, while the indented arm scye portions indicated by 5 are located intermediate of the neck portions or substantially at the center of the blank. As explained in said original application co-pending herewith, the yoke portions of the shirt are formed in the web at substantially the points where the neck and arm scye portions are formed. It is obvious that in this position of the blank, if the tubular web is employed, as illustrated herein, the articles can be out most readily from the web, the parts of similar contour lying one above the other. In other words, there are parts of the front and parts of the back immediately adjacent to each other, as indicated in Fig. 2, wherein it will be seen that a front portion indicated by a is immedi ately adjacent a back portion, indicated by 3, and another front portion 4: will lie below a front portion, and a back portion will be superposed upon a back portion so that in cutting out the articles, the lines to be followed in cutting will be superposed.

in operating under thisimproved method there is considerable saving both in material and in labor by reason of the fact that the blanks can. be placed one over the other and by a single cutting operation, which is done transversely to the length of the article made from the blank, the complete article is formed, thereby requiring a minimum amount of sewing at the upper edges of the articles, the side edge of the article requiring substantially no sewing. Moreover the folding is easily and accurately done by reason of the fact that the folding is made along lines projected from the indented arm scye portions and in the case of a tubular blank both sides of the article are folded simultaneously without any change in the position of the parts after the cutting operation. In other words there is simply two steps to the operation, one the single cutting operation from the blank and a single folding operation thereafter to bring parts in proper position for sewing.

It will be noted from an examination of Fig. 2 that the parts are first cut from the blank so that a cutout part, which may be called the neck part, is located at the right side and one also at the left side of the blank. Moreover, a careful study of the figure shows that the neck part at the left projects higher up than the neck partat the right side (looking at Fig. 2). This arrangement of the neck parts is for the pur pose of providing for the difliculty of cutting simultaneously a back portion of a shirt and a front portion, since the back portion of a well formed shirt must project higher up than the front portion. Consequently an early step in this improved method is to cut from the blank the parts of a shirt such that there will be part of a back port-ion and part of a front portion in the same plane, having the neck part of the one portion projecting higher up than the neck part of the other. Moreover, as preferably shown herein, there is a part of a back shirt portion below the part shown in Fig. 2 on the upper layer and these two parts of a back portion are similar in conformation, the neck parts projecting to the same height and on the right side there is a part of a front portion in the upper layer of the blank and a part similar in every respect beneath the upper. Consequently these parts can be cut simultaneously from the blank in this relative arrangement and yet they are formed or cut from one blank portion having dissimilar parts (part of a front and part of a back) located in the same plane. It will now require one folding operation only to bring the parts in proper position for sewing. This folding is done along the lines 1, which are preferably shown as selvages, and thereby the parts are brought into position of Fig. 1 ready for the final sewing together.

Having described my invention, I claim as follows:

1. The method of making a garment having portions of similar and dissimilar contour by first cutting on a blank the top edges of said garment such that the edge portions of dissimilar contour will he initially in the same plane and thereafter folding the blank along lines corresponding wit-h the sides of the garment to bring portions of one contour in a different plane from portions of a different contour, substantially as specified.

2. The method of forming garments from a blank by one cutting and one folding operation, comprising first cutting the top edges of the garment having a plurality of dissimilar neck portions, one projecting at a different height from the other, and parts of different neck portions lying in the same plane one with the other and then folding the blank to bring the dissimilar neck portions in different planes such that one portion is superposed upon the other.

3. The method of making garments having portions of similar and dissimilar contour by first cutting on a tubular web the top edges of said garment such that there will be edges of dissimilar contour on each layer and thereafter folding the web along lines corresponding with the selvages thereof to make the garment ready for sewing, substantially as specified.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand this lth day of June 1910.

ARTHUR J. GUMNOCK.

\Vitnesses ALBERT POWELL, V. F. Lyons.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

Images