US1016027A

US1016027A - Thread-cutting mechanism for sewing-machines.

Info

Publication number: US1016027A
Application number: US19438304A
Authority: US
Inventors: Daniel Mills
Original assignee: STANDARD SEWING MACHINE CO
Current assignee: STANDARD SEWING MACHINE CO
Priority date: 1904-02-19
Filing date: 1904-02-19
Publication date: 1912-01-30
Anticipated expiration: 1929-01-30

Description

D. MILLS. THREAD CUTTING MEGHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLIUATION FILED I'BB.19, 1904. I 1,016,027, Pand 5311.30, 1912.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

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D. MILLS.

APPLICATION FILED I`BB.19, 1904.

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2 D. MILLS.

THREAD CUTTING MEGHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

' APPLIUATION FILED IBBJQ, 1904.

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

A/ni 6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

D. MILLS.

THREAD CUTTING MBGHANISM PoR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED PEB. 19, 1904.

Patented J an. 30, 1912.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

D. MILLS.

THREAD CUTTING MEGHANISM TOE SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 19, 1904.

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

6 SHEETS-SEEBT 5.

\\\\\\ Illll llllllll/ @XM/huwen @i f f f- I D. MILLS.

THREAD CUTTING MEGHANISM FOR SEWING MAGHINES.

v APPLICATION FILED FEB. 19, 1904. 1,016,027.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

Patented J an. 30, 1912.

u Y f www' Illu. lllhllllHlI @WLM/120Mo UNITE@ STATES PATENT @NEIGE DANIEL MILLS, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR T0 STANDARD SEW- ING MACHINE COMPANY, OF CLEVELAND, OHIO, A CORPORATION 0F OHIO.

THREAD-CUTTING MECHANISM FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

rumoer.

- Speccaton of Letters Patent.

rarement aan. saisie.

Application led February 19, 1904. Serial No. 194,383.

To all whom` it may concern Be it known that I, DANIEL MILLS, a citi- ;'zen of the United States, and resident of Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Thread-Cutting Mechanism for Sewing- Machines, of which the following is a speciiication.

This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, and especially7 to that class of sewing machines in which the mechanism is auton'iatically stopped after making a desired predetermined number of stitches, as for example, in button-sewing, buttonhole stitching and bar-tacking machines, in all of which the desired number of stitches are sewed at one point in the work, as at a button or buttonhole, and the machine then stopped and the work shifted before rcstarting the machine. In machines operating in this manner, as for example, in a button-sewing machine, which is the type of machine shown in the drawings of this application to illustrate my invention, a button is sewed to the fabric, the machine stopped, and the work then drawn through the machine to locate the fabric at another point at which another button may be sewed to the same. In such machines as heretofore constructed the needle and the bobbin threads are usually both pulled or drawn along with the fabric as the latter is shifted, and there consequently much waste of thread thereby caused, as the thread is continuous, spanning the space from button to button, and is usually cut by the operator after the sewing en. of the button is completed. rIhis cutting` operation of course causes a considerable loss of time in addition to the waste of thread.

In a prior application filed by me May 1902, Serial No. 108,667, I have illustrated a mechanism which avoids the waste of thread and loss of time incident to the type of sewing machine just described, the mechanism shown in my prior application being operative for cutting'` the needle and bobbin threads after the sewing mechanism has made the desired number of stitches at a given point and has been automatically stopped, the cutting of the threads being performed in such mechanism by a suitable thread-cutter brought into action before the work is shifted into a new position, and preferably at about the time that the presserbar is raised to release the work. In the mechanism shown in said prior application means `were provided for pulling out a suficient length or quantity of thread from both the needle and bobbin thread supplies to allow for the proper formation of the first stitch on the re-starting of the machine. In such mechanism the needle-thread loop cast off by the looper during the formation of the last stitch of a predetermined number or series was received and detained in such a manner as to cause an additional length to be drawn from the needle-thread supply by the usual take-up device, and an additional length was drawn from the bobbin-thread supply by a suitable pull-oft, the latter device having been operated by manual means subsequent to the automatic stopping of the machine, and the means for causing an additional length of thread to be drawn from the needle-thread supply having been automatically brought into action just prior to the stopping of the'machine and during the formation of the last stitch of a series.

In the present invention I retain the essential features of the means shown in said prior application for drawing off an additional quantity of thread from the needlethread supply on the formation of the last sti tch of a series, but I provide in lieu of the bobbin-thread pull-off device novel means for clamping the bobbin-thread and holding it so clamped until a predetermined point is reached in the operation of the machine after the same has been restarted.

One of the principal features of my present invention is the provision in connection with a thread-clamp, and particularly a thread-clamp for engaging and holding the bobbin-thread, of manual and automatic means for operating said thread-clamp, the manual operating means serving to clamp the thread after a predetermined number of stitches has been made and the machine stopped, and the automatic means serving to release such clamp after the machine has been re-started and a sulficlent number of stitches locked in vent the pulling out of the thread. The means preferably employed for the purpose of holding such bobbin-thread in place until a sufficient number of stitches has been made is a combined thread cutting; and clamping device, the Working stroke of which is controlled manually and the return stroke of which is effected automatically at the proper time. This combined cutting,l and clamping; device operates to sever the bobbin-thread and at the same time clamp it firmly in place.

Another important feature t the pres ent invention is the provision in connection with such a device as that inst described, to Wit, a thread clamp or combined thread cutting and clamping' device, of means for eX- ertinn such a clamping' pressure thereon as Will prevent movement thereof during the interval between the manual operation of the device to the clamping); position and the automatic return of the same to the inoperative position, and also assure its positive clampingaction When in clamping` position. This result may be accomplished in any desired manner. but l prefer to utilize the downward pressure exerted by the presser-bar. An important feature of this construction is the mounting' of the threadclamp upon the throat-plate and the euertion of the clamping); pressure doivnivard upon said threadclamp. preferably by means of a clamping-plate. operated by the presser-bar and which has a slight. movement sufficient to force the thread-clamp into frietional clamping` engagement with the upper surface of the throat-plate upon which it is supported.

`Other features of the intention not hereinbefore referred to ivill be hereinafter described and pointed out in the claims and are illustrated in the accompanying` draivinns. in Which- Figure 1 is a front elevation of a Standard button-seWing` machine embodying my present invention. Fie: Q is a rear vieiv of the same. Fie'. is a substantially central horizontal section of the same` the section being taken in the line .SL-3., 1.v lookingT from above. Fig. l is an underside vieiv of the same, partly in section. the section beine,` taken in the line tw-fl. Fig. 1. Fiss. (i. 7 and 8 are details of the thread cutting` and clamping` device, with associated elements for operating` the hohbin-thread cutting.r and clan'ininp,` device manually and automatically at different times and illustrate the principal, operative positions of such parts at various stafres of the operation of the machine. Fig. 9 is a sectional front end elevation of a detail illustrating a pull-off device controlled by the stop mechanism, as will be hereinafter described. Figs. 1() and 11 are enlarged sectional details taken respectively place in the work to prei on line 1OY1O of Fig. 8 and line 11---11 of 7, and illustrate the manner in which the bobbin-thread cutting,` and'clamping device operates to cut the bobbin-thread and then clamp the severed end in place. Figs. 12 and 13 are enlarged sectional elevations of the stitch-forming` mechanism and of the loop detainer and spreader cooperative therewith, taken on lines l2-1Q and LOF-113 of Fig. 2, showing the respective positions of said detainer and spreader `when it out of action and When in its operative position. Figs. 14; and l5 are top and side views respec/tivelyP of the loop-detainer and spreader removed from connection with the machine.

Similar characters designate like parts in all the figures of the drawings.

1n said drawings, l have illustrated one type of sewing machine, in which the stitchforming' mechanism is adapted to be automatically stopped after making a predetermined number of stitches, the machine shown being` a button-sewing machine of the Wellknown Standard sewing1 machine type, although my invention is equally applicable to other sewing machines for other purposes than for sewing on buttons. Many of the parts illustrated are of Well-known construction and are for convenience of illustration substantially as found in said Standard sewing' machine, some of said parts being a bed-plate 1, an overhanging arm 2, an upper driving` shaft 3 supported in bearings in said arm 2, a vertically-reciprocatiug needlebar ll operated from the driving shaft 3, a rotary shuttle or looper 5, a shuttle-driving` shaft 6 supported in suitable bearings on the under side of the bed-plate and operated from the upper shaft 3 by suitable connections, a take-up device 7, operated in the usual manner from the upper shaft 3, a presser-bar 8 operating` in the usual manner, a button-holder carried by said presser-bar, and suitable mechanism for shifting said button-holder for presenting` the holes in the button to the needle in the proper manner, together ivith automatic stop mechanism for stopping the stitch-forming' mechanism and other Working parts at the end of a determined number of stitches, various minor devices being also shown, to which special reference need not be made.

The button-holder carried by the presserbar may be of any suitable construction, and is preferably detachably clamped to the presser-bar between a pair of nuts 10-10, said button-holder having; the usual buttongripping jau's 13-18. between which a button may be firmly held.

The button-holder may be vibrated. back and forth to present first one and then another of a pair of holes in the button in a position to be entered by the needle in the following manner: The presser-bar, to which the button-holder is secured, is vibrated back and forth in a direction transverse to the bed-plate by the usual operating connections employed in t-his machine, and as said presser-bar is vibrated, the button-holder, and the button carried thereby, are also moved back and forth to present a pair of holes in the button to the needle alternately. .The button-holder is also pivoted to swing relatively to the presserbar about the pivot 12 for the purpose of presenting the second pair of holes in the button in position to be entered by the needle. This swinging' movement may be communicated to the button-holder by a connecting-rod 28 adjustably secured to the rocker-arm or lever-arm 27 attached to the upper end of a short vertical shaft 25 eX- tending through the bed-plate and working in bearings at opposite sides thereof, and is derived from a rotary switch-cam 24 through another arm 29, which latter is secured to the lower end of the shaft 25 and provided with a pin which works in the groove of said cam and causes the shifting of t-he connecting-rod 28 and the button-holder at the proper time. This cam is geared directly to the shaft 6 and driven therefrom by worm gearing.

Any suitable automatic stop mechanism may be employed for stopping the machine after making a predetermined number of stitches, a desirable form being that shown and described in my prior Patent No. 635,267, dated October 17, 1899. ln the present case, as in said patent, the shaft 3 has the usual hand-wheel or pulley 34 fast thereon and a driving or loose pulley adapted to be clutched to, and unclutched from, said fast pulley 34. For the purpose of coupling these pulleys an elbow-lever 36 is pivoted on a bracket-arm 37, and one end of this elbow-lever extends into an opening in a vertically operating slide-bar 39 and is adapted to be actuated thereby. The other or outer end of said elbow-lever eX- tendsinto position to actuate a sliding-pin 40 controlling the clutch movement of the pulley 35. At its lower end the slide-bar 99 connected by a link 42 to a lever 43, one end of which latter is pivoted on a lug 44. while the opposite end of said lever is bifurcated and embraces a pin projecting from a rock-arm carried bv a rock-shaft 46 suitably supported below the bed-plate. This shaft 46 is rocked in the proper direction whenever it is desired to couple the

pulleys

34 and 35, and when the pulleys are clutched together the elbow-lever 36 and the slide-bar 39 are held in position to effect such clutching by a suitable latch, such as the horizontally acting spring-pressed slide-latch 49, engaging with the said slidebar. By withdrawing the slide-latch 49 from engagement with the slide-bar 39 the latter will. be automatically elevated and the -for spreading' said loop to permit the cut- 1- patent. These stop-rings are each provided with a projecting lip or stop-face, one of which, that on the ring 58, being adapted 7 to strike the upper end of the slide-bar 39 when the latter is released by the slidelatch and forced upward by the spring 54, so as to stop rotation of the pulley in one direction, while the ring 57 may have a slight over rotation due to the momentum of the connected operating partsL in which event it may be returned to the normal stopping point by means not shown) similar to that shown in my prior-patent. s

The stop mechanism is intended to be controlled automatically, and I have shown herein a releasing-bar 70 pivot'ed to the lever-arm 27 and having a hooked rear end for engaging and releasing an elbow-lever 74. and also having a cam face 70 coperative with a fixed pin 70 for shifting the position of the hooked end of the bar. The hooked end of the bar 70 does not operate the lever 74 to automatically stop the ma- 9 chine until the bar 70 is pulled toward the needle during the formation of the last of the determined number of stitches, when said arm 70 is shifted by the lever-arm 27 and the slide-latch 49 is released from the-loo slide-bar 39, whereupon the sewing operation automatically stopped by the parts previously described.

Tn the present machine, as in that shown in my prior application, the automatic stop mechanism is intended to control the throwing into action of a device for engaging and detaining the last needle-thread loop cast off by the shuttle after a series of stitches, and

ting of one side thereof without cutting the other. This loop-detainer or loop detainer and spreader is normally held out of action and is brought into operation just prior to the casting ott of the last loop by the shuttle prior to the automatic stopping of the machine. This loop-detainer is designated by 75 and is a swinging arm secured to the forward end of a short rock-shaft 7 0 journaled in bearings below the main shaft 6 and having at its rear end another rock-arm 7l carrying an antifriction roller 72 which normally rides on the under side of the camwheel 24. Thiscam-wheel has a cam-face or locking recess 24 which controls the throwing of the loop-detainer into operation, this being accomplished by the antifriction roll 72 snapping into said recess when the cam-wheel brings the recess around opposite the roll. A spring, such as 73, 3

last loop o' the series of Stitches is cast oli' by the shuttle. rl`he loop detainei and sl'nfeadei' has a hook 'T6 'forming a i'e Tl' sin'eadei i and said detaineimay also have a such as the lateial wingl on 'flange spi'eatdinn` the two sides oli the loop to enable the cutter heiea'llei described to out one si d, only ot the l'oop-tli1ead or needle-threw Withoutseyei'ing the other. 'lhe hooked poi'tion oit this speadei toinis guide foi' the loop. as sho in in Fig 133, and may be stopped in its Working position When thrown into action by the spring' 7.3, by a Wall SG ot the shuttle-race oi` any otheistop-face. lllhen the detainei' is stopped as .showin the loop caetol'l by the shuttle enteis the recess Y? Without meeting any obstruction and is detained by the end wall ot said recess and spread by the lateral Wing' 7S. @Wing to the tact that this last loop ot a` series is detained and not drawn np into the Woii'l by the talle-np, it 'is necessary to provide moans toi.' relieving the tension on the needletliiead at such time and While the take-up is conipletingfg' its taleuip moyei'nent so that the additional length ot thi'eafl made necessary by reason oit the loop imssing` around the detainei' may be cli-amai 'timn the spool by the tal eup without liability ot breakage. Any oi'dinaiy type of tension device, such as indicated at 85, may be employed tot tensioning; the thiemh l bln out instead ot the tensiona'eleasingg device shown in my piioi application., malte use ot a pull-ntl device which is ai'i'angged to enoago with the thiead at a point between the spool and the tension and which is opeiatiffe upon the starting of the machine to nnll o'l'l3 a cci*- tain amount oli tlu'ead trom the spool and subsequently.i preferably dininaj 'tlie lloi'mation ot the last stitch ot a eeiies5 'to efiye np auch tlnieat so as to slack the same l oel Ween the spool and the tension deyice and thereby relieve it olf all drag' oi' tension othei' than that provided by the tension deyice itself. 'llhis l have found in piacl'ice sullicienlly relieves the thread of tension to peiinit it to be dinwn from the spool dining; the 'torination of the lasty stitch Without liability oit breakage.

rl`he pull-olf.y heiein ShownA41 comprises a leyei 87 which is piioted upon the machine at a suitable point, such as 8T", adjacent to the spool oi? needletlnead svl ply? and operatively connected with tne slide-bai ot the automatic stop-mecha nism so as to be conti-oiled thereby by means Lemony `^-andslot connection 8S (see Fig.

t its iti-ee end this lever ST may have an eye o1' opening;l ST through Which the needle-tlnead may pass. ln this construction tho pnlloli' level' t? movable in a direction ciosewise ot the head Qv and is normally stationary dining the operation of the maw chine in the position shown in dotted lines in itin'. to vwhich position it is moved to pall ott thread 'from the spool when the slideoail 39 is loweted upon the starting of the machine, but is automatically thrown to the position shown by lull lines in said liggui'e when the slide-bail 39 rises on the automatic stopping ot the n'iachinej in Which position it slacks the thi'ead 'toi' the puipoee bet deeci'ibed.

n all of the pi'ineipal yieiys the mechaA nism is shown with the parts in the positions occupied immediately attei1 the machine has been biought to a stop by the action ot the automatic stopping mechanism. Rill of the pai-ts aie now in position to pei'- niit the cuttii'lgv oit the needle and bobbin tln'eads and the i'elease oi.l the Werl; i'om the lnitton-lioldoix ln the foregoing desci'ip have set 'toi'th the manneil in which vthe need le-tlnead is held and a considerable length oi thread pioyided to form a out end, it being necessary that the lei'igtli olf the sei'eied end ot the needle-thiead below the eye olf the needle shall be sullicient to peiniit the lita-ination of the stitch when the machine is stated again auton'iatioally. ln he cmistifnction shown in my piioi applicaion con idoiable length oit thread at the cut end of the boolfiin-tln-ead is pifoyided'loi the same pni'poee. ln the present case7 hoW- i, l cntthe bobbinlhread Without p14-oyiding; any extra leiggtl'i ot thi'ead, and the end so cut is immediately clamped until the machine is iestai'ted and a sufficient ninnbei' oit stitciies pi'opeily formed to lock the hobbinthread firmly in the Work. The means toi cutting' and clai'npingthe bobbin thiead is associated with the loop-detainei id spieadei and pietei'ably cooperates directly with a needletlnead cuttei, ,sepaiate mt being employed for seyeiing the needle' iead and the bobbin-thtead7 in stead out a single cnttei' being employed to cnt both threads, as in my piioiq application.

The pi'incipal feature which distinguishes my pi'esent invention iom that shown in my piici' application is the bobbin-tlnead cntting and clamping means, and the mannei in which this is constructed and opel'- ated iill new be desciiliied. ln the pte tei-red constiuction the bobbin-thiead ontn ting and clamping means will be actuated by the Same manual actuating mechanism as the means foy cutting the needle-th1'ead, and, the manual action 'will be similar to that tot conti"ollin` the cutting olf the tlneads in my piior application. The bobwe lo bin-thread cutting and clamping functions are preferably combined -in a single mov` able element mounted directly upon the throat-plate 100 and preferably pivoted thereto in such a manner that the combined be'bbin-thread cutting and clamping device, which is designated generally by 101 and is pivoted at 101', will move across said throatplate and the needle opening therein. The device as shown is substantially in the form of an angle-lever with a hooked end hav-- ing an opening between such hook and the body of the device in order to form a space through which the needle may pass. The upper outer edge of the hooked part of the device is in this case the cutting edge and the lower outer edge of said hook is the clamping edge and is preferably rounded. rlhese cutting and clamping edges are clearly illustrated at 101" and 101 in Figs. 10 and 11, from which it will be seen that the movable cutting or shearing edge of the device coperates with one fixed face or member to shear the bObbin-thread 102, and that the other rounded clamping edge coperates with another fixed face or member to bind or clamp between such parts the ysevered end of the thread. The fixed member which .cooperates with the clamping edge of the bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device is the upper side of the throat-plate 100 at the edge of the needle opening therein, and the member which cooperates with the cutting edge of said combined cutting and clamping device is preferably a substantially fixed clamping plate 99 having a needle opening 99 therein, one edge of which constitutes a cutting edge which coacts with the cutting edge 101". rllhis clamping plate constitutes an element for exerting a clamping pressure on the bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device 101, and the clamping plate preferably has a slight vertical movement for the purpose of clamping the device 101 which lies under it and upon the throat-plate 100 and taking up wear of the parts and compensating for slight differences in the thickness 'of the thread. This slight movement of the clamping-plate may be obtained by securing the plate atcne edge only, as for example, at the points 9S, it being in this case mounted in a cutaway portion of the throat-plate and held thereto by screws at the points 9S so as to leave the part of the clamping-plate adjacentto the needle-opening relatively free. The clamping pressure is best exerted in a downward direction upon the plate 99 and preferably is controlled by the presserbar, the part. which acts directly upon the clamping-plate in this construction being the button-holder secured to the foot of the presser-bar. This mechanism constitutes a means for normally clamping the bobbinthread cutting and clamping device between the clamping plate and the upper side of the throat-plate.

Any suitable form of needle-thread cutter may coperate with the parts just described and with the loop-spreader to sever the needle-thread at one side of the loop formed by such spreader. In my prior application I have illustrated a movable and a fixed shear for accomplishing this result, but in the present case I have shown a pair 0f movable shears, one of which is indicated at 105 and is a short lever pivoted at 105 below and at one side of the needle opening in the throat-plate and pivoted in turn to a coacting movable shear 106 near the center of a long arm which carries said shear and in turn is pivoted at 106 at a point remote from the needle opening in the throat-plate (see F ig. t). These two coacting shears constituting the needle-thread cutter are oscillated in opposite directions by means of a long connecting-rod, such as 113. It should be understood that these two movable shears operate in contact with each other and in the path of one side only of the loop carried by the spreader, and that the other side of the loop is not cut by such shears. Hence a long end depends through the opening in the throat-plate on the drawing up of the needle, this end being of suflcient length to permit the proper formation of the first stitch upon the re-starting of the machine.

The .parts just described for cutting the threads may be operated in any suitable way, but l prefer to organize them in such a manner that they will cooperate with the presser-bar and presser-foot, which latter in this case is a part of the button-holder, this mode of organizing the parts being desirable in order that the operator may cut the threads and raise the button-holder from the work into a position where the button may be disengaged from the holder and the work shifted, by a single operation. Moreover, I prefer to provide manually controlled means for actuating the needle-thread cutter and the bobbin-thread cutter and for returning the needle-thread cutter, and to malte use of automatic means for returning the bobbinthread cutting and clamping device. The connecting-rod 113 just referred to constitutes a convenient means for operating both the needle and bobbin-thread cutters, and in the construction shown carries an anti-frio t-ion roll 113 which coacts with and serves to operate the bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device. The operation of said device 101 from the rod 113 is effected preferably by means of an intermediate member in the form of a cam-lever 110 connected to the device 101 and having two, -cam faces 110 and 110, the former of which coacts with the manually controlled operating means, one element of which is the rod 113, and the latter of which coacts with the automatic operating means, which will be hereinafter described. iit the rear end thereof the connecting-rod 113 is pivoted to a short connectingrod or link 1111, the rear end ot which is in turn pivoted to an oscillator)7 member, which in this case a plate 116 pivoted at 11G on the arm ot the machine near the lower end thereof, This plate is normalljv7 hold in a stationar)7 position against a stop 117 by a spring 115, which latter also serves to return the said plate 11G, the link 11H1, the connecting-rod 113 and the shears ot the needlethread cutter to their normal positions atteisuch parts have been operated. The plate 11G also carries a spring-pressed bypass pawl 120 having a working tace in the path ot an actuator, such as an antiftriction roll 121 on the rod 30, by means ot which actuator' the plate 11G is oscillated and the thread-cutter actuated, and by means ot which rod the presser-bar mayv be raised cn the depression ot a treadle (not shown) by the operator. llt its upper end the rod 30 has a slot 122 ot suil'lpicient length to provide for a certain lost motion to permit the thread-cutters and a needle-thread pull-out hereafter described to be operated before the presser-bar lever 123 is operated to raise the presser-bar. itn independent spring 124tis employed for returning the connectinga'od 8O to its normal position in addition to that shown at 125 for lowering the presser-bar and its lever.

The connecting-rod 30 also constitutes a means for actuating a device for pulling the cut end et the needle-thread out ot the work. The pull-out proper is in this case a plate 1&5 having a needle-opening therein and located in a horizontal plane at the lower end of an angle-lever 1-15 pivoted on the sewing machine head at HG. This needlethread pull-out is actuated by a long lever 1117 pivoted at 1+i-.S and extending at its rear end into the path ot movement et the rod 30. This lever 147 is forked at 147 at its rear end to straddle an actuator, suoli as 150, carried by the rod 30, the toi-lied portion oli the lever having a eanrsliaped tace coacting with the actuator 1.30, and the parts being so organized that the rod SO at the proper point in its descent, atter the threads have been cut, operates the lever 147 to shift the pull-out toward the rear ot the machine to withdraw the needle-thread Ytrom the cloth before the presserbar is raised. The spring 151 serves to return the lerer 147 and the pull-out to their normal positions. When the rod 30 is pulled down t-he actuator 121 will engage the working tace of the pawl 120 to oscillate the plate 11G and operate the thread-cutters, and the continued downward movement of the rod 30 will cause the actuation ot the pull-out and the raising ot the presser-bar.

After the work has been shifted to a new .I

position, the rod 8O may be permitted to rise, and the actuator 121 will ride past the pawl 120 to a point above the same in its normal position. At the same time the various sprii'igs will return the needletlnfead cutters, the pullout and the presser-harto their normal positions. '.lhereupon the machine ma7 be started again by turning the rock-shaft ltl, which will cause the elbowlever 36 to be operated and the pulley 35 to be clutched to the pulley 31- again, and at the same time the slide-bar will release its stop-ring and the pull-oil1 S7 will be shifted to its working position and take an additional length of thread 'from the needle thread supplv. This operation also resets the slide-latch and locks the same with its rear end in position to be operated again by the lever 711 at the proper time. p

l have h ereinbetore stated that the out ond of the bobbin-thread will be clamped as soon as cut and held clamped until, after restarting the machine, a sutlicient number oit stitches has been made to lock the bobbinthread lirml'y in the work, when the bobbinthread clamp may be released automatically. ln Figs. 5 to 8 inclusive, l have illustrated. the successive stages inthe operation of cutting the two threads and restoring the needle-thread cutter and the bobbiu-thread cutting and clamping device to their normal positions. Fig. 5 shows the parts in their normal positions, with the machine ready to start. litter making the desired number ot' stitches the machine is automaticallj,T stopped, and thereupon the cutters are operated manually, as hereinbetore described. The positions of the parts at the moment that the cutting stroke is nished are illustrated in F ig. 6, the intermediate or cam-lever 110 being shifted at such time by the manuallycontrolled actuator or antitriction roll 113 on the rod 113. Fig. 7 shows the positions ot the parts on the release ot the manually controlled operating means, at which time the needle-thread cutter is returned to its normal position and the manual15T-controlled actuator 113 is shifted out et operative re lation with the intermediate or cam-lever 110. TWith the parts in this position it will be noted that the manuallv-controlled actuator can not operate said cam-lever again until said cam-lever is returned to its original position (shown in Fig. 5). The camlever 110 is now in position to coact with the automatic means tor operating the saine, and this automatic action may take place anj)7 time atter the machine has been restarted. and a sutlicient number oit stitches made to assure the locking et the bobbinthread in the work. Usually the cam-lever 11G will be actuated and the combined bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device released trom the cut end ot the bobbin-thread and restored to its normal position after ire making va series or predetermined number of stitches, as for example, a series of stitches for a single pair of holes in the button. A convenient time to release the bobbin-thread clamp is the moment when the button-holder is shifted to bring the second pair of holes in the button into position to coperate with the needle. This movement is controlled by the lever 27, and Ihave shown at 160 an arm projecting from said lever and carrying an actuator or roll 1GO which coacts with the cam-face 110 of the cam-lever ll() and operates said cam-lever and hence the bobbin-thread cutter and clamp automatically when the lever 27 is shifted to the position shown inA Fig. S to shift the position of the button-holder to bring another pair of holes in the button into working relation with the needle. t will be noted that this arm 1GO not only returns the bobbin-thread cutter and clamp to its normal position, as shown in Figs. 5 and 8, but that said arm itself also returns automatically to the position shown in Figs. 5, G and T when the new series of stitches is completed and the machine automatically stopped, the lever 27 shifting back to such other position on such automatic stopping of the machine. Hence the actuator 160 will also be in an inoperative position with respect to the bobbin-thread clamp, as shown in Fig. 5, at the time that the manually-controlled operating means is brought into` action, the mannally-controlled means and the automatic means for operating the bobbin-thread cutter and clamp thus coperating therewith alternately.

hat l claim is:

l. ln a sewing machine for forming successive groups of stitches with intervening spaces, the combination with the stitchforming mechanism, of a thread-cutter, a thread-clamp, manually-controlled means operative upon a completion of a group of stitches for operating said thread-clamp to clamp the thread, and automatic means operative during the formation of a group of Stitches for operating said thread-clamp to release the thread.

2. In a sewing machine for forming successive groups of stitches with intervening spaces, of a bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device, manually-controlled means operative upon the completion of a group of stitches for operating said device to clamp the thread, and automatic means operative during the formation of a group of stitches for operating said device to release the thread.

3. In a sewing machine for forming successive groups of stitches with intervening spaces, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism, of a combined thread cutting and clamping device, manually-controlled means operative upon the completion of a group of stitches for operating said device, and automatic means operative during the formation of a group of stitches' for operating said device to release the thread.

et. ln a sewing machine for forming successive groups of stitches with intervening spaces, the combination with the stitchforming mechanism, of a combined thread cutting and clamping device, manually controlled 'means operative upon the completion of a group of stitches for imparting a working movement to said device, and automatic means operative during the formation of a group of stitches for imparting a return movement to said device, for the purpose set forth.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a needlethread cutter', a bobbin-thread cutter, manually-controlled means for imparting working strokes to4 both of said cutters and a re turn stroke to said needle-threadcutter, and automatic means for imparting a return stroke to said bobbin-thread cutter.

' G. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a needle-- thread cutter, bobbin-thread cutting and clamping means, manually-controlled means for imparting working strokes to said needle-thread cutter and said bobbin-thread cutting and clamping means and a return 1 stroke to said neelle-thread cutter, and automatic means for imparting a return stroke to said bobbin-thread cutting and clamping means.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a needlethread cutter, a combined bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device, manually-controlled means for imparting working strokes to said needle-thread cutter and saidcombined bebbin-thread cutting and clamping device and a return stroke to said needlethread cutter, and automatic means for imparting a return stroke to said combined bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device.

S. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, an oscillatory needle-thread cutter, an oscillatory bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device, means for impartinCr to said needle-thread cutter and said bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device simultaneous working movements, and means for imparting to said needle-thread cutters and said bobbin-thread cutting and clamping device successive return movements.

9. ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, and with a thread clamp, of manually-controlled means for voperating said thread clamp to clamp the thread, and automatic shifting mechanism operative on the completion of a predetermined number of stitches for operating said thread clamp to release the thread.

10. 1n a sewing; machine, the combination with stitch-tcrmingg,l mechanism, a threadcutter and a thread-damp, of manuaiiycontroiied means for operatiiml said ciamg to ciamp the thread, a biitton-hoider, and automatic bu t ton -h o1 der-ehittin 0' mechanism operative on the cmnpietion ot a predetermined` number of stitches tor operating,` said clamp to release the thread.

11.. 1n a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a threadcutter and a bobbin-thread cianip, of manuaily-controlied means for operating said clamp to clamp the thread, a buttondioider, and automatic button-hcider-shitting mechw einem operative on the compietion ot' a predetermined number oit stitches ttor operating said ciamp to reiease the thread.

1.2. 1n a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, and with a combined boiiibin-thread cutting` and c1amping device, oit manua11y-c mtroi1ed means Ytor imparting` a nuirhing movement to said device, and automatic shitting mechanism operatii'e on the con'ipietion of a predetermined. number of stitches for imparting a return movement to said derice.

'13. 1n a sewing machine, the combination With stitch-forming' mechanism, and nith a combined bobbin-thread cutting and ciamping derice, oit manuaiiy-controlled means tor imparting a Working' moifcmcnt to said device, a button-hoider, and automatic buttonholder-shitting' meciniuism operative on the compieticn ot a predetermined number oit stitches for imparting a return increment to said device.

L1. 1n u sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming,Y mechanism, of a needle thread cutter, a bobbin-thread cutter, manually-continued means for impar-tune` working strokes to both of said cutters and a return stroke to said needie-thread cutter, and automatic shitting' mechanism oiieratirc on the compietion or a predetermined numher of stitches for imparting' a return. stroke to said bobbin-thread cutter,

1n a sewing,4 machine, the combination with stitch-termine mechanism, of a neediethread cutter, hobhin 'thread cutting and clamping means, manuaiiy-controiied means for militar-ting working` strokes to :aid needie-thread cutter and the bobhiwthread ciit',ti1ig` and damping means and a. return stroke to the ueedie-thread cutter, and automatic shitting1 mechanism oilierative on the completion ot a predetermined number of stitches for imparting` a return stroke to said 1 bobbiinthread cutting' and damning means.

11'. 1n a sewing; machine, the comigiination with stitch-terminn mechanism, ot a ncediethread cutter, bobbinthread cutting and (damping means, manualijcontroiied means for imparting Working; strokes to said i i, t i

needie-thread cutter and the bobbin-thread cutting and damping means and a return stroke to the needie-thread cutter, a buttonhoider, and automatic button-11o1dcrshifting mechanism operative on the con'ipietion of a predetcrmined number oit stitches for iminirting` a return stroke to said bobbinthread cutting` and clampingl means.

17. 1n a sewing machine, the combination Yith stitch-ormingl mechanism, of a combined thread cut-ting and clamping device haring a sharp cutting` edge and a rounded damping` edge, manna]iy-controiied means for operatingv said device, and automatic menne operative on the compiet-ion of a predetermined numher ot stitches for imparting a rt urn movement to said device.

1U. l'n a sewing' machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, ot a bobbinthread chimp mounted upon the throat-Piate, ciamp-actuating means, and means for pressing said hobbinthread clamp down onto the tiuoat--iriiate and movabii7 hoiding it in clamping' position reiativciy thereto.

19. in a sewing,T machine, thcncombination with stitch-'tormingl mechanism, oit a combined imbbin-thread cutting and. damping device mounted upon the throat-plate, means for actuating said device, and motvn abie means for engaging With and pressing said (hnicc donn onto the t1iroat-p1ate- Q0. in a sen'infr machine, the combination with stitchatorming mechanism, oit a threadw clamp mounted on the throat-Piate, ciampactuating means, and presser-baractuating means tor iiiressing said thread-chimp down onto the throat-plate.

21. Yin a sewing machine, the combination uith stitch-forming mechanism, of a bobbinthread chimp mounted upon and movabie acrossy the throat-piatte, cianionctuatingl means, and pressenbar-actuating means for pressing` said hohbin-thread ciamp down onto the throat-Piate.

QQ. in a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-thinning mechanism, ot a ciamping-piate secured to the throat-plate and morabie siiejhti); rc1 ati veiy thereto, a bobbinthrcad chimp mounted upon the throatpiatte and under the ciainping-piate, ciampactuntingg; means and means Ytor exerting a downward citunning` pressure upon said y. ciaitmingnpiate.

23. in a sewing` machine, the combination i @plate secured to the throat-Piate and morabie siightiy reiatireiy thereto, a bobbinthread clamp mounted upon the throat-piatte and under the ciampingpiate, chimp-actuating means and a pressenbar cooperative .h said damping-pitite for exerting a don'nn'ardv chnnpingrgpressure upon said cian-ip.

2i. iin a seuf'ing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a driving shaft, of a normally inoperative loop-detainer, a cam-wheel driven by said shaft and having a cam face controlling the throw of said loop-detainer into action, an automatic stop mechanism organized and timed to stop the stitch-forming mechanism with the cam on the driving shaft in position for operating said loop-detainer, and a manually-controlled thread-cutter operative subsequent to the action of said stopmechanism.

25. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a driving shaft, of a normally inoperative loop-detainer, a cam-wheel driven by said shaft and having a locking recess controlling the throw of said loop-detainer into action and also serving to lock the loop-detainer in its operative position, an automatic stop mechanism organized and timed to stop the stitch-forming mechanism with the cam on the driving shaft in position for operating and locking said loop-detainer, and a manually-controlled thread-cutter operative subsequent to the action of said stopmechanism.

26. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of an automatic stop mechanism therefor, a normally inoperative loop-detainer controlled by said stop-mechanism and rendered operative thereby upon t-he stopping of the stitchforming mechanism and a pair of manually controlled coacting thread-cutting shears cooperative with said loop-detainer.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of an automatic stop mechanism therefor, a normally inoperative loop-detainer and spreader controlled by said stop mechanism and rendered operative thereby upon the stopping of the stitch-forming `mechanism and a pair of manually-controlled coacting thread-cutting shears operative in the path of one side only of a loop engaged by said loop-detainer.

28. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism embodying a needle and a bobbin, of an automatic stop mechanism therefor, a loop-spreader controlling the needle-thread and controlled by the stop mechanism and rendered operative thereby upon the stopping of the stitchforming mechanism, a needle-thread cutter operative in the path of one side only of a loop engaged by said loop-spreader, and manually-controlled thread-cutting means.

29. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism embodying a needle and a bobbin, of an automatic stop mechanism, a loop spreader controlling the needle-thread and controlled by the stopmechanism, a needle-thread cutter operative in the path of one side only of a loop engaged by said loop-spreader, bobbin-thread cutting and clamping means, manually controlled means for imparting a working stroke to said needle-thread cutter and the bobbin-thread cutting and clamping means and a return stroke to the needle-thread cutter, and automatic means for imparting a return stroke to said bobbin-thread cutting and clamping means.

30. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including the presser-bar, of separated cutting and clamping members one of which is movable relatively to the other, a combined thread cutting and clamping device having a sharp cutting edge and a rounded clamping edge cooperative respectively with said cutting and clamping members and being operative therebetween, means for imparting working and return strokes to said device, and means including said presser-bar controlling the clamping pressure of said movable member.

31. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including the presser-bar, oftwo separated clamping members one of which is movable relatively to the other, a thread clampy operative between said clamping members, clamp-actuating means, and means including said presser-bar controlling the clamping pressure of said movable clamping member.

32. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including the presser-bar, of two separated clamping members one of which is movable relatively to the other, a thread-cutter operative between said clamping members, cutter-actuating means, and means including said presserbar controlling the clamping pressure of said movable clamping member.

33. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including the presser-bar, of two separated clamping vmembers one of which is movable relatively to the other, a combined thread cutting and clamping device operative between said clamping members, means for actuating said device, and means including said presserbar controlling the clamping pressure of said movable clamping member.

34. In a sewing machine, the combination wit-h stitch-forming mechanism including the presser-bar, of two separated clamping members one of which is yieldingly movable relatively to the other, a thread clamp operative between said clamping members, clamp-actuating means, and means including said presser-bar movable to and from position for exerting a clamping pressure on said movable clamping member.

35. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including the presser-bar, of two separated clamping members one of which is yieldingly movable relatively to the other, a combined thread Signed at Philadelphia in the county of cutting and clamping device operative be- Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania this tween said clamping membeis7 means for ae- 23d day of December A. D. 1903.

tuating said device, and means including DANIEL MILLS.

said presser-bai' movable to and from posig lVitnesses: tion toi' exerting a clamping pressure on Said MILTON WOLF, movable Clamping member. HARRY L. PIERCE.

Copies of this patent may be obtained forv five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.