UA49983C2 - Method for manufacture of brassiere and measuring brassiere for its manufacture - Google Patents

Abstract

Method for manufacture of brassiere includes placement on the body of measuring brassiere with measuring grid represented on its cup, definition of pressure on its sections by measuring of the value of stretching of cells of measuring grid, adjusting of fit of measuring brassiere by reciprocal shift of its split elements to reach the following condition: Ps.e. ≤ Pa, where Ps.e. - stretching effort of material of cup; Pa - admissible stretching effort, representation of spatial form of the breast by plastic wire elements that are located in mutually perpendicular directions passing through mammillary point to the intersection with anthropometric line of breast base and along this line, manufacture according to outlines formed by flexible plastic elements of patterns or cup details that are mounted to form article. Measuring brassiere is composed of cup, split side support part equipped with fastener and shoulder-straps that have means of junction with cups and side support part with the possibility of adjustment to length. Cups look like triangles (polygons) made of knitted material and contain in upper part a measuring grid. In-cut connection joins cups with side support part. Measuring brassiere is equipped with measuring strips along side support part and shoulder-straps.

Description

Description of the invention

The invention relates to light industry and can be used for the production of corsetry products.

There is a well-known method of making a bra (L.M. Antipova, Konstruirovanieye i tekhnologiya korsetnyh izdelij. M.: Legkaya i pishchevaya promyishlennost, 1980, p. 19 - 39), in which ten geometric parameters are preliminarily measured by anthropometric points, eight of them by the conditions for giving the breasts a preliminary placement, using a standard bra for this, and for two (vertical and transverse 70 diameters of the breast base) - measurements are performed on a pristine surface. After the measurements, models of the parts of the bowl, straps and side support are made, the fabric is cut into parts and assembled into a product.

The use of a standard, rather than an individually made bra, does not take into account the characteristics of the individual body structure and breast shape of a woman, which is an individual female characteristic. At the same time, the measurements performed with a centimeter tape and tools (measuring compass, etc.) do not allow to fix the geometric parameters of the curvilinear shape of the breast surface.

There is also a well-known method of making a bra (A. s. BYU Mo1790905 AT, MKV A41С3/00, 30.01.93, Bull. Mod), in which a measuring bra is placed on a woman's body, the pressure in its areas is measured, taking into account the details of the bra, patterns are made , cut the fabric into parts and assemble them into a product. In the known method, a standard bra is used as a measuring bra. After measuring the pressure in the informative anthropometric points, the increment Ai is determined, to the length of the cross-sections in each analyzed area, which is necessary for the redistribution of pressure according to the formula: language, ts 4 29 where: P; - pressure at the informative anthropometric point, g/cm; Ge) and; - the length of the cross-section in the area of the lateral support surface, cm; 4 - the value of specific insensible pressure on the body, which is equal to 8.62 O.1 g/cm 2, which is taken into account when making patterns of bra details. with

However, the known method of making a bra does not allow to achieve individual identity of the geometric surface of a woman's breast and the geometry of the inner surface of the bra, which is Fghygienic and with the biological property of quality, because: first, the pressure is measured only at individual points of intersections, while F is the lateral resistance part performs the role of a loader on the surface of the breast, which contradicts the possibility of an even placement of the breast in the bra cup, and, secondly, the shape is given to the breast by the surface (o) of a standard bra, which is not identical to the naturally created one, or obtained taking into account the physiological "features of the shape of the breast and the physique of a specific female personality. (A well-known measuring jacket (А. p. 5 Мо1510827, А41Н3/00, 30.09.89. Бул. Мо3б), which contains two saws with cut-off collars above the breast line, which have means of connection along the cut line with the lower part of the saw, the right and left breasts have vertical slits along the line of the breast bulge with a measuring scale applied along one of them and are equipped with means of connection. But these data are not enough for the manufacture of a bra.

Light and food industry, 1984, p. 19, 88 - 89) which consists of bowls, a detachable side support part equipped with a fastener, and straps that have means of connection to the bowls and the side support part, but with the possibility of adjustment by length A well-known measuring bra allows you to take into account such individual parameters as the height and volume of the chest, but does not reproduce the specific shape of the chest. (se) Thus, the basis of the invention is the task of developing such a method of manufacturing a bra and a sizeable bra for its implementation, which by introducing a new operation of displaying the spatial shape of the breast and a new implementation of known operations in the method, introducing new elements and a new form of implementation (ee ) 50 known in the design, would allow to achieve an identical reproduction of the breast shape of each specific woman, thanks to which the consumer properties of the product are improved.

The problem is solved by the fact that in the bra manufacturing method, according to which a measuring bra is placed on the body, the pressure on its parts is determined, taking into account the patterns of the bra parts, the fabric is cut into parts and assembled into a product, according to the invention, the pressure on the parts cups of a measuring bra are determined by measuring the amount of stretching of the measuring cells

GF) of the mesh previously applied to the cup of the measuring bra, after which the fit of the measuring bra is adjusted

GF by mutual movement of its detachable parts until the condition is fulfilled:

Roma 5 Rdop. where: Rrmch is the tensile strength of the cup material;

Rdop. - permissible tensile strength, and reflect the spatial shape of the breast with flexible plastic wire elements that are placed along mutually perpendicular axial directions passing through the nipple point and to the intersection with the anthropometric line of the base of the breast and along this line, and patterns or details of the cup are made according to the contours of the formed flexible plastic wire elements. b5 The problem is also solved by the fact that in a measuring bra, which consists of a cup, a detachable side support part equipped with fasteners, and straps that have means of connection with the cups and a side support part with the possibility of length adjustment, according to the invention, the cups have the shape of triangles (polygons), are made of knitted material, carry a measuring grid in the upper part and are connected with tension

ALONG the base of the triangle with a lateral support part with a detachable connection.

It is advisable that the measuring bra is equipped with measuring tapes placed along the side support part and straps.

It is advisable that the fastener and means of connection are made in the form of a textile fastener.

Applying a measuring grid to the cup allows you to quickly determine, by its deformation during use, the amount of stretching of the cup material, which is caused by the pressure caused on the chest due to the interaction of the cup with the surface of the chest and the cup-strap assembly, and by correcting the fit of the measuring bra by mutual movement detachable parts and by reproducing with flexible plastic wire elements, due to their formation, a complex spatial surface, which is formed by a balanced surface of the breast, and by using the obtained contours of the breast in the development of patterns or analytical calculations, as close as possible 7/5 Reproduction of the surface of the breast into the inner surface bra cups under the condition of permissible pressure.

Making a bowl made of knitted fabric in the form of a triangle (polygon) allows stretching the fabric within the limits favorable for fixing and measuring its size, and placing a measuring grid in the upper part of the triangle allows you to fix the amount of stretching during interaction with the strap. The connection with tension along the base of the triangle with the lateral support part with a removable connection helps to form the spatial shape of the triangle cup and vary its volume.

Equipping the removable side support part and straps with measuring tapes helps to determine the necessary bra sizes.

Fig. 1 shows the general view of a measuring bra; in Fig. 2 - execution of a bowl in the form of a polygon; in Fig. 3 - the directions of placement of flexible plastic wire elements on the fixed surface of the chest; Fig. 4 is a diagram of the implementation of a technological method of manufacturing the lower or upper parts of a bra cup; Fig. 5 is a diagram of the implementation of the design method of manufacturing cup parts; in fig. b - i) scheme of implementation of the technological method of manufacturing a cup.

The measuring bra consists of cups 1, straps 2 and a removable side support part in the form of a woven tape Made of artificial or synthetic material, to the ends of which the Hook side 4 and the loop side 5 are sewn (U

From textile tape, which, when superimposed on each other, form a textile fastener. Sections of the hook side of the textile tape b and 7 are sewn, respectively, in front and behind the side part C to form connections with the textile fastener of the side part C with the cups 1 and straps 2. On the sections of the tapes 7 there are buckles 8 Ge! from an elastic tape, which is sewn into tension at the ends of the tapes 7. From under the hook side of the textile tape 4, a woven tape C is extended, which serves as a substrate 9, and the supply of the substrate 9 and the loop side of the textile tape 5 should be enough for the previous and subsequent the size of the interdimensional increment during the formation of "g" textile fastener. A measuring tape 10 is sewn along the entire detachable side part C with textile tapes 4 and 5 along its lower edge.

The straps are made of a woven tape made of artificial or synthetic material, to which a measuring tape 11 is sewn along its entire length. From the inner side to the end of the strap 2, the loop side 12 " of the textile tape is sewn, which forms a textile fastener with the hook side of the textile tape 7 of the side pla) c of part C and has a margin of length for intergrowth increment. On the second end of the outer part of the strap 2, the hooked side of the textile tape 13 is sewn, and the buckles 14 are also sewn. ;" The function of the cup of a measuring bra is performed by a knitted fabric, cut at an angle of 45", in the form of a triangle (polygon, Fig. 2) Z, the sides of which are finished with a cast-off stitch. Elements of the loop side of the textile tape 15 are sewn to the top of the triangle Z and on the corners of its base. 16, 17, and 5" and the tapes 15 go beyond the angle of the triangle to ensure the possibility of varying their length to the point of contact with the tape 13 of the textile fastener, and measuring tapes 18 are sewn to the tapes 15. The tapes and 16 and 17 are intended to form a textile fastener with tapes 6. The cups of the measuring bra are used once - they are alternated separately for each customer, and the artificial or synthetic material of the ribbon Z and straps 2 provides the possibility of their disinfection before use when the customer alternates. women with the supporting part C under the chest and fix with a textile fastener using the connection of hook 4 and looped sides 5. Previously, the bowl in the form of a triangle 1 is stretched along the base to form a convex surface on the knitted fabric from which the triangle is made, and fixed with a textile fastener, placing two tapes 16 and 17 on the tapes 6 of the support part 3. Straps 2 are carried with tapes 12 to the buckles 8 and are also fixed on the tapes 7 of the support part 3.

F) The surface of the chest (not shown) is wrapped with a knitted fabric of triangles 1, after which the tape 15 is placed in the buckle 14 and connected to the tape 13. Previously, a measuring grid 19 with a cell size of 10 x 10 mm is applied to the upper part of the triangle. Depending on the need to reproduce a certain shape in the chest, tapes 15, 16, 17 are moved to provide greater or lesser tension to the knitted fabric of the triangle 71, and depending on the body, tapes 12 are moved. The amount of stretching of the cells of the measuring grid 19 is fixed with a bar tool with an accuracy of 0.1 mm , which is compared with the tensile data of the knitted fabric on the tearing machine, thereby determining the tensile strength and, accordingly, the pressure. When the tensile strength of the knitted fabric P of triangle 1 exceeds the permissible Rdop strength: 65 Rrmh » Rdop.1) the amount of stretch of triangle 1 is reduced by moving the fastener 9 until the condition is met:

Rrmach x Rdop/(2)

After a certain shape of the breast has been fixed, it is mapped with flexible plastic wire elements (for example, copper wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.4 mm). For this, along the vertical and horizontal axial directions and base lines 1-1; 1I-I; Mon-Sh; IM-IM (Fig. 3) of the fixed surface of the chest lay flexible plastic wire elements 20, giving them the curvature of the surface on which they are placed.

The curvature of the surface of the flexible plastic wire element 20 of the vertical axis I serves as a template for reproducing the axial sections of the lower part 21 of the cup on the patterns, and the others for reproducing the side sections and sections of the upper part 22. At the same time, the number of parts of the cup can be three, or one or two . For 70 formation of the three-dimensional shape of the cup or its parts, which would correspond to the shape given by the elements 20, the side sections of the cup parts can also be deformed due to their landing on the sewing equipment with its fixation with a thread stitch, the sections of the lower parts of the cup, which are connected to each other, can be straight or curved.

The relationship between the geometric parameters of the parts and the degree of their deformation is found from the 75 expressions given below for the varieties of the design of the cup, provided that 20 radii invented on deformed flexible plastic wire elements are used, which can be averaged, the three-dimensional surface is formed from a plane given by the pattern, and the sections connecting the lower parts of the cup can be straight.

For the technological method of manufacturing the lower or upper parts of the cup, which consists of two or one part (fig. 4, ASV - contour before planting, A«СВu - contour after planting): in K.,zip(a/2) : 0) thing/2K y) where K" is the value of the radius of curvature of the flexible plastic wire element 20;

K - the initial radius of curvature of the pattern of the lower part of the cup; о, - the value of the angle that subtends the arc of radius K; with

Kd - the degree of deformation of the bra material (Kd - 1.01 vs 1.15). at

K - L. (4)

Kd- Y yav L dv, (4)

The initial data of the geometry of bra patterns are obtained according to formula (3) by the method of assignment and selection of unknowns or iteration (known values of o; and Ko). For the case when only the design method of obtaining the convex surface of the lower or upper part of the cup is used, when it consists of one or two so parts (Fig. 5) and the base AB is deformed, which turns into the section A|VI, the initial data of the geometry of the pattern Ge) are obtained by the formula:

YALKOOK (o)

К-х-- о 5 55 (5) zip(о/ 23360" « where: ф is the value of the angle that subtends the arc of radius Ко;

Kd AV / A.V.

The initial data of the geometry of the bra patterns are obtained according to formula (5) by the method of assignment and selection of "unknowns" or iteration (known values of ф and Ко). For the case when the entire cup is made from one part (or two, three) to create a bulge in the area of the nipple point, or a structural form of greater convexity, the technological method of fitting the material along the circle (fig. b) is used, the output data of the geometry of the pattern are obtained by the formulas: vn (v) - vp(f/2)

T- Ve VI Ka); (0) (se) 1

Ka i , (8) so P-os/360 where o, - the angle at which the material is planted along a circle of radius K, to obtain a circle of radius K.;

Me A), Si V. - contour after landing. According to the patterns made according to the initial data, parts are cut out and assembled into the finished product.

Thus, the declared method of making a bra using a measuring bra allows you to identically reproduce the shape of a specific woman's breast, thanks to which consumer properties are improved

Product

F) with

Claims (4)

The formula of the invention in 1. The method of making a bra, in which a measuring bra is placed on the body, the pressure on its parts is determined, taking into account the patterns of the bra parts, the fabric is cut into parts and assembled into a product, which differs in that the pressure on the parts cups of a measuring bra are determined by measuring the amount of stretching of the cells of the measuring grid previously applied to the cup of a measuring bra, after which the fit of the measuring bra is adjusted by mutual movement of its detachable 65 parts until the condition: Rrmch x Rdopo de Rom is fulfilled. - tensile strength of the cup material; Rdop. - permissible tensile strength; and reflect the spatial shape of the breast with flexible plastic wire elements, which are placed along mutually perpendicular axial directions passing through the nipple point and to the intersection with the anthropometric line of the base of the breast and along this line, and the patterns or parts of the cup are made according to the contours of the formed flexible plastic wire elements. 2. A one-size-fits-all bra, which consists of a cup, a removable side support part equipped with fasteners, and straps that have means of connection with the cups and a side support part with the ability to adjust along the length, which is distinguished by the fact that the cups have the form of triangles (polygons), made of knitted material, carry a measuring grid in the upper part and are connected with tension along the base of the triangle to the lateral support part by a detachable connection. C. A measuring bra according to claim 2, characterized in that it is equipped with measuring tapes placed along the side support part and straps. 4. Adjustable bra according to claim 2, which is characterized by the fact that the means of connection are made in the form of a textile fastener. 6) (ze) (ee) (o) (o) « - and? sh» se) se) (ee) syu ime) 60 b5