TWI838504B - Color cosmetic composition containing wax blend - Google Patents
Color cosmetic composition containing wax blend Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- TWI838504B TWI838504B TW109110698A TW109110698A TWI838504B TW I838504 B TWI838504 B TW I838504B TW 109110698 A TW109110698 A TW 109110698A TW 109110698 A TW109110698 A TW 109110698A TW I838504 B TWI838504 B TW I838504B
- Authority
- TW
- Taiwan
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic composition
- composition according
- wax
- solvent
- waxes
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 125
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- -1 ferrocyanide Chemical compound 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 11
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron oxide Chemical compound [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 7
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium carbonate Chemical compound [Ca+2].[O-]C([O-])=O VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical group CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- UYTPUPDQBNUYGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N guanine Chemical compound O=C1NC(N)=NC2=C1N=CN2 UYTPUPDQBNUYGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920003023 plastic Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N arachidyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- IRERQBUNZFJFGC-UHFFFAOYSA-L azure blue Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[S-]S[S-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] IRERQBUNZFJFGC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940073609 bismuth oxychloride Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910000019 calcium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003759 ester based solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxo(oxoalumanyloxy)alumane Chemical compound O=[Al]O[Al]=O TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011269 tar Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- ULGYAEQHFNJYML-UHFFFAOYSA-N [AlH3].[Ca] Chemical compound [AlH3].[Ca] ULGYAEQHFNJYML-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- VEUACKUBDLVUAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N [Na].[Ca] Chemical compound [Na].[Ca] VEUACKUBDLVUAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K azanium;manganese(3+);phosphonato phosphate Chemical compound [NH4+].[Mn+3].[O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000012860 organic pigment Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004909 Moisturizer Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 230000001333 moisturizer Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 27
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 27
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 16
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 12
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 12
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 12
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 9
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 7
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 7
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 7
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 7
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 5
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000004200 microcrystalline wax Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000019808 microcrystalline wax Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000000080 wetting agent Substances 0.000 description 5
- FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylhexyl salicylate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WYWZRNAHINYAEF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Padimate O Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C1=CC=C(N(C)C)C=C1 WYWZRNAHINYAEF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 4
- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 4
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- MEZZCSHVIGVWFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O MEZZCSHVIGVWFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000008168 almond oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000013871 bee wax Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000012166 beeswax Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 3
- QUAMTGJKVDWJEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N octabenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OCCCCCCCC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 QUAMTGJKVDWJEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000011049 pearl Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000003711 photoprotective effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000003039 volatile agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZXDDPOHVAMWLBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,4-Dihydroxybenzophenone Chemical compound OC1=CC(O)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 ZXDDPOHVAMWLBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XMVBHZBLHNOQON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-butyl-1-octanol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(CO)CCCC XMVBHZBLHNOQON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PUYOAVGNCWPANW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpropyl 4-aminobenzoate Chemical compound CC(C)COC(=O)C1=CC=C(N)C=C1 PUYOAVGNCWPANW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 244000144725 Amygdalus communis Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000011437 Amygdalus communis Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl 4-methoxycinnamic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- SODJJEXAWOSSON-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl)methanone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1O SODJJEXAWOSSON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000001721 carbon Chemical class 0.000 description 2
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- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940086555 cyclomethicone Drugs 0.000 description 2
- MCPKSFINULVDNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N drometrizole Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(O)C(N2N=C3C=CC=CC3=N2)=C1 MCPKSFINULVDNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- UVCJGUGAGLDPAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N ensulizole Chemical compound N1C2=CC(S(=O)(=O)O)=CC=C2N=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 UVCJGUGAGLDPAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 2
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本發明涉及包含蠟的共混物的無水、可塑的化妝品組合物。 The present invention relates to anhydrous, plasticizable cosmetic compositions comprising a blend of waxes.
近年來,存在對於在化妝品組合物中使用矽酮流體的強趨勢。其普及的主要原因是矽酮提供的雅致感:含有它們的產品使皮膚光滑,具有優秀的滑動性,但不產生非矽酮油常常留下的油膩厚重感。矽酮油目前是幾乎所有類型的化妝品組合物(液體和粉末兩者)的常見組分,例如粉底霜、遮瑕膏、眼影和眼線膏、唇膏和唇筆以及腮紅。 In recent years, there has been a strong trend towards the use of silicone fluids in cosmetic compositions. The main reason for their popularity is the elegance that silicones provide: products containing them leave the skin smooth with excellent glide, but without the greasy heaviness that non-silicone oils often leave behind. Silicone oils are now a common component of almost all types of cosmetic compositions (both liquid and powder), such as foundation creams, concealers, eye shadows and eyeliners, lipsticks and lip pencils, and blushers.
矽酮油的另一個有吸引力的方面是它們傾向於在它們所施加的皮膚上產生非常閃亮的外觀。對於某些類型的化妝品,特別是對於針對較年輕的消費者的那些化妝品(對這些消費者而言,鮮明或有光澤的外觀是非常吸引人的),或者對於意圖用於晚間使用的化妝品(其中柔光允許化妝品產生的光澤的更大範圍),這通常是理想的。 Another attractive aspect of silicone oils is that they tend to produce a very shiny appearance on the skin to which they are applied. This is often desirable for certain types of makeup, particularly those targeted at younger consumers (for whom a bright or shiny appearance is very appealing), or for makeup intended for evening use (where a soft glow allows for a greater range of shine produced by the makeup).
然而,對於某些類型的化妝品產品,和/或對於某些類型的消費者,不需要大量的光澤,並且大量的光澤可能甚至是不合適的。較成熟的使用者可能不滿意非常有光澤或發亮的化妝品。表徵較成熟皮膚的細線和皺紋被傾向於直接反射光的有光澤的產品加重。對於某個年齡的消費者而言更優選散射或漫射光的化妝品,從而提供“軟焦點”,其將線模糊並隱藏色斑。在過去實現這類掩蔽的嘗試主要依賴於使用較高水準的顏料,但這經常導致厚重的結塊產品,其不使大部分消費者滿意。 However, for certain types of cosmetic products, and/or for certain types of consumers, a lot of shine is not desired and may even be inappropriate. More mature users may not be satisfied with very glossy or shiny cosmetics. The fine lines and wrinkles that characterize more mature skin are accentuated by glossy products that tend to reflect light directly. Cosmetics that scatter or diffuse light, thereby providing a "soft focus" that blurs lines and hides spots, are more preferred for consumers of a certain age. Attempts in the past to achieve this type of masking have relied primarily on using higher levels of pigment, but this often results in heavy, caked-on products that do not satisfy most consumers.
類似地,也可能僅僅需要消除在某些環境中使用的產品的光澤。例如,有光澤的化妝品在保守的辦公室環境中通常被視為不合適的,和/或在典型辦公室的刺眼光線下可能太耀眼。在這些環境中,對化妝品產品可能需要更加無光澤的裝飾。傳統上,這通過向製劑添加固體粉末,例如雲母、矽石、滑石等實現。然而在基於矽酮油的組合物的情況下,削弱產生的光澤傾向于比較傳統的化妝品油更困難,因此需要添加甚至更大量的固體填充劑。然而,在製劑中較大比例的固體導致在皮膚上厚重的拖曳感,從而在一定程度上抵消矽酮油的一些益處。或者,更加無光澤的外觀可通過在製劑中包括一種或多種揮發性組分,例如水或揮發性油實現;當揮發物在施用後蒸發時,這總體上相對於組合物增加了顏料的濃度,導致更加無光澤的外表。然而,這也可導致在皮膚上乾燥的結塊外表。此外,使用揮發物,特別是水,在所有產品(例如無水唇膏產品) 中是不合適的和/或不可行的,並且還導致需要找到專門的(並且通常昂貴的)氣密包裝以防止揮發物從包裝中的產品損失。 Similarly, it may also be desirable to simply eliminate the shine of a product that is used in certain environments. For example, glossy cosmetics are often viewed as inappropriate in a conservative office environment and/or may be too dazzling in the harsh lighting of a typical office. In these environments, a more matte finish may be desired for a cosmetic product. Traditionally, this has been achieved by adding solid powders, such as mica, silica, talc, etc., to the formulation. However, in the case of compositions based on silicone oils, it tends to be more difficult to attenuate the shine produced than with conventional cosmetic oils, and therefore even greater amounts of solid fillers need to be added. However, a larger proportion of solids in the formulation results in a heavy dragging sensation on the skin, thereby offsetting some of the benefits of silicone oils to a certain extent. Alternatively, a more matte appearance can be achieved by including one or more volatile components in the formulation, such as water or volatile oils; when the volatiles evaporate after application, this generally increases the concentration of the pigment relative to the composition, resulting in a more matte appearance. However, this can also result in a dry, caked appearance on the skin. Furthermore, the use of volatiles, especially water, is not suitable and/or feasible in all products (such as anhydrous lipstick products), and also results in the need to find specialized (and often expensive) airtight packaging to prevent loss of volatiles from the product in the packaging.
根據以上內容,一直需要化妝品組合物,其可遞送優秀的收效(payoff)和美學效應而沒有當包括高水準的固體時現有製劑顯示的讓人不愉快的感覺的缺點。 In light of the above, there continues to be a need for cosmetic compositions that deliver excellent payoff and aesthetic effects without the unpleasant sensory drawbacks exhibited by existing formulations when high levels of solids are included.
本發明涉及包含蠟的共混物的無水、可塑的化妝品組合物。蠟共混物包括至少四種不同的蠟,各自特徵為分別具有約60℃至約65℃;約33℃至約46℃;約88℃至約96℃;和約74℃至約99℃的熔化溫度。所述組合物進一步包括至少一種溶劑,其優選是非揮發性的溶劑;和至少一種顏料。 The present invention relates to an anhydrous, plastic cosmetic composition comprising a blend of waxes. The wax blend includes at least four different waxes, each characterized by having a melting temperature of about 60°C to about 65°C; about 33°C to about 46°C; about 88°C to about 96°C; and about 74°C to about 99°C, respectively. The composition further includes at least one solvent, which is preferably a non-volatile solvent; and at least one pigment.
所述化妝品組合物可呈眼影、腮紅、撲面粉、唇膏等形式。 The cosmetic composition may be in the form of eye shadow, blush, face powder, lipstick, etc.
本發明的這個和其它方面在下文中描述。 This and other aspects of the invention are described below.
儘管說明書以特別指出並清楚地要求保護本發明的請求項結束,但認為本發明根據以下描述將得到更好理解。 Although the specification ends with claims that specifically point out and clearly claim protection for the present invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.
所有百分比、份數和比例基於本發明的組合物的總重量,除非另外指明。在所有這樣的重量涉及所列的成分時其基於活性水準,因此它們不包括可包括在市售可得的材 料中的溶劑或副產物,除非另外指明。術語“重量百分比”在本文中可表示為“wt.%”。 All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they relate to the listed ingredients are based on active levels, and therefore they do not include solvents or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified. The term "weight percent" may be expressed herein as "wt. %".
本文使用的所有分子量是以克/摩爾表示的重均分子量,除非另外指明。 All molecular weights used herein are weight average molecular weight expressed in grams per mole unless otherwise indicated.
所有比例是重量比例,除非明確另外說明。 All proportions are by weight unless expressly stated otherwise.
在本文中,“無水”是指各成分的組合物包含很少水或不包含水。優選地,無水系統、組合物或材料不包含水。 As used herein, "anhydrous" means that the composition of ingredients contains little or no water. Preferably, the anhydrous system, composition or material contains no water.
在本文中,“熱傾”是指化妝品製劑,其必須加熱至熔化並分散其組成成分,所述組成成分然後在冷卻時凝固。 In this context, "hot-dip" refers to cosmetic formulations that must be heated to melt and disperse their constituent ingredients, which then solidify upon cooling.
在本文中,“cs”是指厘沲。 In this article, "cs" means centistokes.
本文使用的術語“可塑的”是指材料能夠在室溫下被模制或成形,沒有破裂或破碎。 The term "plastic" as used herein refers to a material that can be molded or shaped at room temperature without cracking or breaking.
在本文中,“分子量”根據重均分子量測量,和通過凝膠滲透色譜(GPC)測量。 In this article, "molecular weight" is measured based on weight average molecular weight, and is measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC).
本文使用的術語“非揮發性溶劑”是指在室溫下不快速蒸發的溶劑。優選地,非揮發性溶劑將具有約0.002mg/cm2/min或更小的蒸發速度。在本文中蒸發速度以mg蒸發的溶劑/單位面積(cm2)/單位時間(分鐘)表示。 The term "non-volatile solvent" as used herein refers to a solvent that does not evaporate rapidly at room temperature. Preferably, a non-volatile solvent will have an evaporation rate of about 0.002 mg/ cm2 /min or less. Evaporation rate is expressed herein as mg evaporated solvent/unit area ( cm2 )/unit time (minutes).
本文使用的術語“揮發性溶劑”是指在室溫下快速蒸發的溶劑。優選地,揮發性溶劑將具有約0.01mg/cm2/min或更大的速度。 As used herein, the term "volatile solvent" refers to a solvent that evaporates rapidly at room temperature. Preferably, a volatile solvent will have a rate of about 0.01 mg/ cm2 /min or greater.
本文使用的術語“水溶性的”是指聚合物可溶于水。一般而言,聚合物應可在25℃下以至少0.1wt.%的水溶劑、優選地至少1wt.%、更優選地至少5wt.%、最優選地至少 15wt.%的濃度可溶。 The term "water-soluble" as used herein means that the polymer is soluble in water. Generally speaking, the polymer should be soluble in a concentration of at least 0.1 wt.% of an aqueous solvent at 25°C, preferably at least 1 wt.%, more preferably at least 5 wt.%, and most preferably at least 15 wt.%.
本文使用的術語“水不溶性的”是指化合物不溶于水。因此,化合物與水不可混溶。 As used herein, the term "water-insoluble" means that the compound is not soluble in water. Thus, the compound is immiscible with water.
本發明的組合物包括至少四種化妝品上可接受的蠟的共混物。各個蠟組分通過其指定的熔化溫度範圍或熔化行為來表徵。蠟可以是天然的或合成的。儘管至少四種蠟組分各自彼此不同,但蠟的熔化溫度範圍重疊是可能的。認為根據指定的熔化特徵,蠟的共混物提供一種可塑的化妝品組合物,具有高顏料負載和理想的收效和拖曳特徵。 The composition of the present invention comprises a blend of at least four cosmetically acceptable waxes. Each wax component is characterized by its specified melting temperature range or melting behavior. The wax may be natural or synthetic. Although each of the at least four wax components is different from one another, overlapping melting temperature ranges of the waxes are possible. It is believed that the blend of waxes provides a plastic cosmetic composition with high pigment loading and desirable payoff and drag characteristics based on the specified melting characteristics.
組合物中可存在的蠟共混物的總量可以是組合物的約2wt.%至約20wt.%、更優選地約5wt.%至約15wt.%和最優選地約8wt.%至約12wt.%。 The total amount of the wax blend that may be present in the composition may be from about 2 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, more preferably from about 5 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, and most preferably from about 8 wt.% to about 12 wt.% of the composition.
第一種蠟組分的特徵為具有約60℃至約65℃的熔化溫度。合適的第一種蠟組分的非限制性實例包括例如,石蠟、礦脂、地蠟等。特別優選的是合成蜂蠟。第一種蠟組分可以組合物的約1wt.%至約10wt.%、更優選地約3wt.%至約8wt.%和甚至更優選地約4wt.%至約6.5wt.%的水準存在于本文的組合物中。 The first wax component is characterized by having a melting temperature of about 60°C to about 65°C. Non-limiting examples of suitable first wax components include, for example, wax, mineral oil, floor wax, etc. Particularly preferred is synthetic beeswax. The first wax component may be present in the composition herein at a level of about 1 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, more preferably about 3 wt.% to about 8 wt.%, and even more preferably about 4 wt.% to about 6.5 wt.% of the composition.
第二種蠟組分應通常能夠在與皮膚接觸時熔化。因此,第二種蠟具有約33℃至約46℃的熔化溫度。優選地,第二種蠟具有小於約42℃的熔化溫度。示例性的蠟可包括月桂蠟、荷荷芭油脂(jojoba butter)、微晶蠟例如Paramelt® LMP(可獲自Paramelt)和天然蠟例如短柔毛楊梅果蠟。特別優選的是硬脂基二甲矽油/十八碳烯(以商品名Dowsil 2503®可獲自Dow Corning)。第二種蠟組分可以組合物的約0.5wt.%至約5wt.%、更優選地約1wt.%至約4wt.%和甚至更優選地約1wt.%至約2wt.%的水準存在於組合物中。 The second wax component should generally be capable of melting upon contact with the skin. Thus, the second wax has a melting temperature of about 33°C to about 46°C. Preferably, the second wax has a melting temperature of less than about 42°C. Exemplary waxes may include laurel wax, jojoba butter, microcrystalline waxes such as Paramelt® LMP (available from Paramelt), and natural waxes such as pubescent berry wax. Particularly preferred is stearyl dimethicone/octadecene (available from Dow Corning under the trade name Dowsil 2503®). The second wax component may be present in the composition at a level of about 0.5 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 1 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, and even more preferably about 1 wt.% to about 2 wt.% of the composition.
第三種蠟組分的特徵為具有約88℃至約96℃的熔化溫度。合適的第三種蠟組分的非限制性實例包括微晶蠟,例如微晶蠟SP 88,可獲自Strahl & Pitsch。第三種蠟組分可以組合物的約1wt.%至約5wt.%、更優選地約2wt.%至約4wt.%和甚至更優選地約2.5wt.%至約3wt.%的水準存在于本文的組合物中。 The third wax component is characterized by having a melting temperature of about 88°C to about 96°C. Non-limiting examples of suitable third wax components include microcrystalline waxes, such as microcrystalline wax SP 88, available from Strahl & Pitsch. The third wax component may be present in the composition herein at a level of about 1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 2 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, and even more preferably about 2.5 wt.% to about 3 wt.% of the composition.
第四種蠟組分的特徵為具有約74℃至約99℃的熔化溫度。合適的第二種蠟組分的非限制性實例包括微晶蠟,例如Multiwax W-835,可獲自Sonneborn。第四種蠟組分可以組合物的約0.5wt.%至約5wt.%、更優選地約1wt.%至約4wt.%和甚至更優選地約1wt.%至約2wt.%的水準存在于 本文的組合物中。 The fourth wax component is characterized by having a melting temperature of about 74°C to about 99°C. Non-limiting examples of suitable second wax components include microcrystalline waxes, such as Multiwax W-835, available from Sonneborn. The fourth wax component may be present in the composition herein at a level of about 0.5 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 1 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, and even more preferably about 1 wt.% to about 2 wt.% of the composition.
所述組合物包括至少一種溶劑。溶劑可以是任何親脂性的化妝品上可接受的溶劑。合適的示例性的溶劑類型可包括基於矽酮的溶劑、基於酯的溶劑、基於烴的溶劑和其混合物。矽酮溶劑可以是二甲矽油、環甲矽油或單分子矽酮。基於酯的溶劑可定義為通過用烷基或其它有機基團替換酸的氫製成的有機化合物。烴溶劑定義為由飽和碳組成的任何流體。 The composition includes at least one solvent. The solvent may be any lipophilic cosmetically acceptable solvent. Suitable exemplary solvent types may include silicone-based solvents, ester-based solvents, hydrocarbon-based solvents, and mixtures thereof. Silicone solvents may be dimethicone, cyclomethicone, or a single molecule silicone. Ester-based solvents may be defined as organic compounds made by replacing the hydrogen of an acid with an alkyl or other organic group. Hydrocarbon solvents are defined as any fluid composed of saturated carbon.
溶劑可選自例如,非揮發性的基於烴的油(其在合適時被氟化)和/或非揮發性的矽酮油。 The solvent may be chosen, for example, from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils (which are fluorinated where appropriate) and/or non-volatile silicone oils.
合適的非揮發性的基於烴的油的非限制性實例包括動物或植物來源的基於烴的油。這樣的油可包括例如,由甘油的脂肪酸酯組成的甘油三酸酯,脂肪酸可具有從C4至C24變化的鏈長度,這些鏈是直鏈或支鏈的,以及飽和或不飽和的。示例性的油可包括庚酸或辛酸甘油三酸酯、麥芽油、葵花油、葡萄籽油、芝麻油、玉米油、杏仁油、蓖麻油、乳木果油(shea oil)、鱷梨油、橄欖油、大豆油、甜杏仁油、棕櫚油、菜籽油、棉籽油、榛子油、澳洲堅果油、荷荷芭油(jojoba oil)、苜蓿油、罌粟油、南瓜籽油、髓油、黑醋栗油、月見草油、小米油、大麥油、藜麥油、黑麥油、紅花油、燭果油、西番蓮油、麝香玫瑰油和其混合物。其它油可包括乳木果油(shea butter)或辛酸/癸酸甘 油三酸酯,例如可獲自Dynamit Nobel的以名稱Miglyol 810®、812®和818®出售的那些。 Non-limiting examples of suitable non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include hydrocarbon-based oils of animal or plant origin. Such oils may include, for example, triglycerides composed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids having chain lengths varying from C4 to C24 , which chains may be straight or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. Exemplary oils may include heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, pith oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, and mixtures thereof. Other oils may include shea butter or caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold under the names Miglyol 810® , 812® , and 818® available from Dynamit Nobel.
根據一個實施方案,除了對應于乾性油的定義的那些之外,溶劑還可包含含有10-40個碳原子的合成醚,例如二異鯨蠟基醚。 According to one embodiment, the solvent may contain, in addition to those corresponding to the definition of drying oils, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as diisocetyl ether.
在另一個實施方案中,溶劑可包含礦物或合成來源的直鏈或支鏈烴,例如凡士林、聚癸烯、氫化聚異丁烯例如Parleam®、角鯊烷和液體石蠟以及其混合物。 In another embodiment, the solvent may comprise linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam®, squalane, and liquid wax, and mixtures thereof.
根據另一個實施方案,除了對應于乾性油的定義的那些之外,非揮發性溶劑可選自合成酯,例如式R1COOR2的油,其中R1表示含有1-40個碳原子的直鏈或支鏈脂肪酸殘基,和R2表示特別支鏈的基於烴的鏈,其含有1-40個碳原子,條件是R1+R2>10。這樣的油可包括例如,尾脂腺油(辛酸鯨蠟硬脂基酯)、苯甲酸C12-C15烷基酯、月桂酸己基酯、己二酸二異丙基酯、異壬酸異壬基酯、棕櫚酸2-乙基己基酯、異硬脂酸異硬脂基酯、月桂酸2-己基癸基酯、棕櫚酸2-辛基癸基酯、肉豆蔻酸2-辛基十二烷基酯、烷基或多元醇庚酸酯、辛酸酯、癸酸酯或蓖麻油酸酯例如二辛酸丙二醇酯,和其混合物。其它這樣的油可包括羥基化酯,例如乳酸異硬脂基酯、蘋果酸二異硬脂基酯和乳酸2-辛基十二烷基酯、多元醇酯、季戊四醇酯和其混合物。 According to another embodiment, the non-volatile solvent may be chosen from synthetic esters, in addition to those corresponding to the definition of drying oils, such as oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 , in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a particularly branched alkyl-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R 1 +R 2 >10. Such oils may include, for example, pygidial gland oil (cetyl octanoate), C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyol heptanoate, caprylate, caprate or ricinoleate such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other such oils may include hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malic acid and 2-octyldodecyl lactate, polyol esters, pentaerythritol esters and mixtures thereof.
根據又一個實施方案,非揮發性溶劑可選自脂肪醇或高級脂肪酸。合適的脂肪醇包括在室溫下為液體的那些,具有支鏈和/或不飽和的含有12-26個碳原子的基於碳的 鏈。非限制性實例可包括辛基十二烷醇、異硬脂醇、油醇、2-己基癸醇、2-丁基辛醇和2-十一烷基十五烷醇。合適的高級脂肪酸包括例如,油酸、亞油酸或亞麻酸和其混合物。 According to yet another embodiment, the non-volatile solvent may be selected from fatty alcohols or higher fatty acids. Suitable fatty alcohols include those that are liquid at room temperature, having branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12-26 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples may include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol. Suitable higher fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.
可用于本發明的組合物的非揮發性矽酮油也可以是非揮發性的聚二甲基矽氧烷(PDMS),任選地包括包含懸掛和/或在矽酮鏈末端的烷基或烷氧基基團的聚二甲基矽氧烷,所述基團各自含有2-24個碳原子。這樣的PDMS可包括例如,苯基矽酮,例如苯基三甲矽油、苯基二甲矽油、苯基三甲基-甲矽烷氧基二苯基矽氧烷、二苯基二甲矽油、二苯基甲基二苯基三矽氧烷和其混合物。 The non-volatile silicone oils useful in the compositions of the present invention may also be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally including polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups pendant and/or at the ends of the silicone chains, each of which contains 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Such PDMS may include, for example, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethyl-siloxy diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylmethyl diphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
根據優選的實施方案,溶劑是選自乙醇、辛基十二烷醇、異丙醇和其混合物的非揮發性溶劑。辛基十二烷醇是特別優選的。 According to a preferred embodiment, the solvent is a non-volatile solvent selected from ethanol, octyldodecanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof. Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.
非揮發性溶劑可以組合物的約0.5wt.%至25%wt.%、更優選地10wt.%至20wt.%和最優選地約13wt.%至約17wt.%的範圍的量存在於組合物中。 The non-volatile solvent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt.% to 25 wt.%, more preferably 10 wt.% to 20 wt.%, and most preferably about 13 wt.% to about 17 wt.% of the composition.
在一個實施方案中,組合物不含或基本上不含揮發性溶劑。已發現,揮發性溶劑造成製劑困難,導致劣等的加工條件和產品後果。包括實質水準的揮發性溶劑的組合物可導致較低可塑性的組合物,具有劣等的感覺特徵。 In one embodiment, the composition is free or substantially free of volatile solvents. Volatile solvents have been found to cause formulation difficulties, resulting in inferior processing conditions and product outcomes. Compositions including substantial levels of volatile solvents can result in less plastic compositions with inferior sensory characteristics.
所述組合物包含高顏料負載。因此,所述組合物包括 組合物的至少約35wt.%、更優選地至少約40wt.%和最優選地至少約45wt.%的顏料水準。顏料負載應該還小於約60wt.%、更優選地小於約55wt.%和最優選地小於約52wt.%的組合物。 The composition comprises a high pigment loading. Thus, the composition comprises a pigment level of at least about 35 wt.%, more preferably at least about 40 wt.%, and most preferably at least about 45 wt.% of the composition. The pigment loading should also be less than about 60 wt.%, more preferably less than about 55 wt.%, and most preferably less than about 52 wt.% of the composition.
可用于本發明的組合物的顏料的非限制性實例包括滑石、雲母、矽石、合成氟金雲母、氧化鋅、錳紫、亞鐵氰化鐵、群青藍、珍珠顏料(氯氧化鉍、鳥嘌呤、硼矽酸鈣鈉、硼矽酸鈣鋁、氧化鋁、聚對苯二甲酸乙二醇酯)、氧化鐵、氧化鈦、鈦雲母、碳酸鈣、焦油顏料和其它有機顏料。也可使用表面用矽酮、矽烷和其衍生物、金屬皂、氟化合物和其衍生物、卵磷脂和其衍生物、氨基酸和其鹽等處理的顏料。顏料可分散在油性介質中,例如本文在合適的溶劑中公開的那些。顏料也可預分散在油性介質例如蓖麻油中,或作為乾燥粉末,其隨後分散在所選介質中。 Non-limiting examples of pigments that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include talc, mica, silica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, zinc oxide, manganese violet, iron ferrocyanide, ultramarine blue, pearl pigments (bismuth oxychloride, guanine, sodium calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, aluminum oxide, polyethylene terephthalate), iron oxide, titanium oxide, titanium mica, calcium carbonate, tar pigments, and other organic pigments. Pigments whose surfaces are treated with silicone, silane and its derivatives, metal soaps, fluorine compounds and its derivatives, lecithin and its derivatives, amino acids and its salts, etc. can also be used. The pigment can be dispersed in an oily medium, such as those disclosed herein in a suitable solvent. The pigments may also be pre-dispersed in an oily medium such as castor oil, or as a dry powder which is then dispersed in the chosen medium.
優選的顏料和粉末包括滑石、雲母、黏土、高嶺土、氧化鋅、尼龍粉末、群青、珍珠顏料(氯氧化鉍、鳥嘌呤)、氧化鐵、氧化鈦、鈦雲母、碳酸鈣、焦油顏料和其混合物。特別優選的顏料和粉末包括雲母、鈦雲母、和/或雲母珍珠,例如可獲自BASF的那些。 Preferred pigments and powders include talc, mica, clay, kaolin, zinc oxide, nylon powder, ultramarine, pearl pigments (bismuth oxychloride, guanine), iron oxide, titanium oxide, titanium mica, calcium carbonate, tar pigments, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred pigments and powders include mica, titanium mica, and/or mica pearls, such as those available from BASF.
所述組合物還可包含潤濕劑。合適的潤濕劑可包括例如,具有約5-7的HLB的表面活性劑,例如脫水山梨醇三油酸酯、聚甘油3二異硬脂酸酯、脫水山梨醇倍半油酸酯 和其混合物。潤濕劑可以組合物的約0.1wt.%至約1.5wt.%的水準存在。潤濕劑有助於在具有高顏料負載的組合物中提供顏料分散。 The composition may also include a wetting agent. Suitable wetting agents may include, for example, surfactants having an HLB of about 5-7, such as sorbitan trioleate, polyglyceryl 3 diisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, and mixtures thereof. The wetting agent may be present at a level of about 0.1 wt.% to about 1.5 wt.% of the composition. The wetting agent helps provide pigment dispersion in compositions having a high pigment load.
本文的組合物可包括一種或多種已知的紫外線吸收劑,優選地至少一種在UV-B區(波長290-320納米)中吸收的化合物和任選地一種或多種在UV-A區(波長320-400納米)中吸收的其它化合物。製劑內包括的UV吸收劑的總量可以是約2wt.%至約15wt.%,所述量將決定它是遮光劑(sunscreen)還是防曬劑(sunblock)。由於本發明的組合物是無水的,UV劑優選地是親脂性的。 The composition herein may include one or more known ultraviolet light absorbers, preferably at least one compound that absorbs in the UV-B region (wavelength 290-320 nanometers) and optionally one or more other compounds that absorb in the UV-A region (wavelength 320-400 nanometers). The total amount of UV absorbers included in the formulation may be from about 2 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, and the amount will determine whether it is a sunscreen or a sunblock. Since the composition of the present invention is anhydrous, the UV agent is preferably lipophilic.
可使用的合適的UV-A吸收劑包括2-(2'-羥基-5'-甲基苯基)苯並三唑(Tinuvin P);2-(2'-羥基-5'-t-辛基苯基)苯並三唑(Spectra-Sorb UV 5411);2,4-二羥基二苯甲酮(Uvinul 400);2-羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮(氧苯酮、Spectra-Sorb UV9、Uvinul M-40);2,2',4,4'-四羥基二苯甲酮(Uvinul D50);2,2'-二羥基-4,4'-二甲氧基二苯甲酮(Uvinul D49);2,2'-二羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮(二氧苯酮、Spectra-Sorb UV24);2-乙基己基-4-苯基-二苯甲酮碳酸酯(Eusolex 3573);2-羥基-4-甲氧基-4'-甲基二苯甲酮(美克西酮、Uvistat 2211);2-羥基-4-(n-辛基氧基)二苯甲酮(奧他苯酮、SpectraSorb UV531);4-苯基二苯甲酮(Eusolex 3490);和2-乙基己基-2-氰基-3,3'-二苯基丙烯酸酯(Uvinul N539);丁基甲氧基二苯甲醯基甲烷(Parsol 1789)和benzphthalide(Escalol 547)。 Suitable UV-A absorbers that may be used include 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole (Tinuvin P); 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole (Spectra-Sorb UV 5411); 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (Uvinul 400); 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone, Spectra-Sorb UV9, Uvinul M-40); 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (Uvinul D50); 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Uvinul D49); 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (dioxybenzone, Spectra-Sorb UV UV24); 2-ethylhexyl-4-phenyl-benzophenone carbonate (Eusolex 3573); 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone (Mexiconol, Uvistat 2211); 2-hydroxy-4-(n-octyloxy)benzophenone (Otabenzophenone, SpectraSorb UV531); 4-phenylbenzophenone (Eusolex 3490); and 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3'-diphenylacrylate (Uvinul N539); butyl methoxydiphenylmethane (Parsol 1789) and benzphthalide (Escalol 547).
一種或多種UV-A吸收劑可以製劑的約0wt.%至約10wt.%存在於最終產品中。所述量根據選擇的具體試劑以及製劑意圖最小化曬黑還是允許曬黑而改變。在使用UV-A吸收劑時,優選的UV-A吸收劑是單獨或與2,2'-二羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮組合的2-羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮。 One or more UV-A absorbers may be present in the final product at about 0 wt.% to about 10 wt.% of the formulation. The amount varies depending on the specific reagent selected and whether the formulation is intended to minimize tanning or allow tanning. When a UV-A absorber is used, the preferred UV-A absorber is 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone alone or in combination with 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone.
合適的UV-B吸收劑包括4-(二甲基氨基)苯甲酸乙基酯;4-(二甲基氨基)苯甲酸2-乙基己基酯(Escalol 507);4-(二甲基氨基)苯甲酸戊基酯(Escalol 506);對氨基苯甲酸甘油酯(Excalol 106);對氨基苯甲酸異丁基酯(Cycloform);和對氨基苯甲酸異丙基酯;甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙基己基酯(Parsol MCX);苯基苯並咪唑磺酸(Eusolex 232);水楊酸高孟酯和水楊酸乙基己基酯。一種或多種UV-B吸收劑可以製劑的約1wt.%至約15wt.%存在於最終產品中。所述量根據選擇的具體試劑和最終產品中需要的保護程度而改變。優選的UV-B吸收劑是4-(二甲基氨基)苯甲酸2-乙基-己基酯(Escalol 507)。 Suitable UV-B absorbers include ethyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate; 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate (Escalol 507); amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate (Escalol 506); glyceryl p-aminobenzoate (Excalol 106); isobutyl p-aminobenzoate (Cycloform); and isopropyl p-aminobenzoate; 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX); phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232); homomanthyl salicylate and ethylhexyl salicylate. One or more UV-B absorbers may be present in the final product at about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.% of the formulation. The amount varies depending on the specific reagent selected and the degree of protection desired in the final product. The preferred UV-B absorber is 2-ethyl-hexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate (Escalol 507).
本文的組合物可任選地包含一種或多種另外的化妝品上可接受的成分。 The compositions herein may optionally contain one or more additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients.
作為這樣的另外成分的實例,可提到但不限於常規的化妝品輔助劑,其尤其選自脂肪物質;有機溶劑,離子或 非離子的、親水性或親脂性的增稠劑;柔軟劑;保濕劑;遮光劑;穩定劑;防腐劑;潤膚劑;矽酮;消泡劑;香味劑;防腐劑;陰離子、陽離子、非離子、兩性離子或兩性表面活性劑;填充劑;聚合物;推進劑;酸化或鹼化劑;顏料;染料;化妝品曬黑劑;無機光保護劑和化妝品或皮膚病學組合物中常用的任何其它成分。 As examples of such additional ingredients, mention may be made, without being limited to, of customary cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from fatty substances; organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; emollients; humectants; sunscreens; stabilizers; preservatives; emollients; silicones; defoamers; fragrances; preservatives; anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants; fillers; polymers; propellants; acidifying or alkalizing agents; pigments; dyes; cosmetic sunscreens; inorganic photoprotective agents and any other ingredient customary in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
脂肪物質可以是油。術語“油”是指在室溫下為親脂性液體的化合物。可提及的油包括礦物油(石蠟);植物油(甜杏仁油、澳洲堅果油、葡萄籽油或荷荷芭酯/油(jojoba ester/oil));合成油,例如全氫角鯊烯、脂肪醇、脂肪酸或脂肪酯(例如由Witco以名稱“Finsolv TN”或“Witconol TN”上市的苯甲酸C12-C15烷基酯、棕櫚酸辛基酯、異壬酸異壬基酯、羊毛脂酸異丙基酯和甘油三酸酯,包括癸酸/辛酸甘油三酸酯)、碳酸二烷基酯例如碳酸二辛基酯、氧基乙烯化或氧基丙烯化脂肪酯和醚;矽酮油(環甲矽油和聚二甲基矽氧烷例如二甲矽油)或氟代油,和聚亞烷基。也可使用含有至少一個醯胺結構的油,例如US7,357,920中描述的那些。 The fatty substance may be an oil. The term "oil" refers to a compound that is a lipophilic liquid at room temperature. Oils that may be mentioned include mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, grape seed oil or jojoba ester/oil); synthetic oils such as perhydrosqualene, fatty alcohols, fatty acids or fatty esters (e.g. C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, octyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl lanolinate and triglycerides, including capric/caprylic triglycerides, marketed by Witco under the name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN"), dialkyl carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, oxyethylated or oxypropylated fatty esters and ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone and polydimethylsiloxanes such as dimethicone) or fluoro oils, and polyalkylenes. Oils containing at least one amide structure, such as those described in US 7,357,920, may also be used.
如果需要的話,一種或多種親脂性增稠劑可加入至組合物中以調節本文的組合物的流變性質。可提及的親脂性增稠劑包括改性黏土,例如鋰蒙脫石和其衍生物,例如以名稱“Bentone”上市的產品。 If desired, one or more lipophilic thickeners may be added to the composition in order to adjust the rheological properties of the composition herein. Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include modified clays, such as lithium montmorillonite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the name "Bentone".
作為可加入本發明的組合物的填充劑或聚合物,可提及但不限於天然纖維,例如絲、纖維素和羊毛;合成纖 維,例如聚醯胺(也稱為“Nylon®”)和人造絲;和聚合物例如聚醯胺、聚丙烯酸酯和聚甲基倍半矽氧烷的顆粒或珠。 As fillers or polymers that can be added to the composition of the present invention, there can be mentioned, but are not limited to, natural fibers such as silk, cellulose and wool; synthetic fibers such as polyamide (also known as " Nylon® ") and rayon; and particles or beads of polymers such as polyamide, polyacrylate and polymethylsilsesquioxane.
製劑的另一種任選組分是一種或多種成膜劑。成膜劑的使用改進組合物的施用和可賦予化妝品產品轉移抗性。有用的成膜劑的實例包括天然蠟、聚合物例如聚乙烯聚合物和PVP的共聚物、二甲矽油樹膠和樹脂,例如蟲膠、多萜和各種矽酮樹脂。特別優選的成膜劑是三甲基甲矽烷氧基矽酸酯,其以約0.1-20%的量使用。 Another optional component of the formulation is one or more film formers. The use of film formers improves the application of the composition and can impart transfer resistance to the cosmetic product. Examples of useful film formers include natural waxes, polymers such as copolymers of polyvinyl polymers and PVP, dimethicone resins and resins such as wormwood, polyterpenes and various silicone resins. A particularly preferred film former is trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is used in an amount of about 0.1-20%.
如上所述,無機光保護劑可與親脂性化妝品或皮膚病學活性成分一起使用。用於本發明的無機光保護劑可選自顏料和甚至更優選處理或未處理金屬氧化物的納米顏料(初級顆粒的平均尺寸:一般5nm至100nm和優選地10nm至50nm),例如氧化鈦(無定形或以金紅石和/或銳鈦礦形式結晶)、氧化鐵、氧化鋅、氧化鋯或氧化鈰的納米顏料。 As mentioned above, inorganic photoprotective agents can be used together with lipophilic cosmetics or dermatological active ingredients. The inorganic photoprotective agents used in the present invention can be selected from pigments and even more preferably nanopigments of treated or untreated metal oxides (average size of primary particles: generally 5nm to 100nm and preferably 10nm to 50nm), such as nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in the form of rutile and/or chalcanthite), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or titanium oxide.
處理的納米顏料是經歷用化合物進行化學、電子、機械化學和/或機械性質的一種或多種表面處理的顏料,所述化合物例如描述於Cosmetics & Toiletries,1990年2月,Vol.105,pp.53-64,例如氨基酸、蜂蠟、脂肪酸、脂肪醇、陰離子表面活性劑、卵磷脂、脂肪酸的鈉、鉀、鋅、鐵或鋁鹽、金屬(鈦或鋁)醇鹽、聚乙烯、矽酮、蛋白質(膠原蛋白或彈性蛋白)、鏈烷醇胺、矽氧化物、金屬氧化物、六偏磷酸鈉、氧化鋁或甘油。 Treated nanopigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as those described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicone, proteins (collagen or elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, aluminum oxide or glycerol.
可使用的許多具體的顏料和納米顏料公開於美國專利 號7,357,920。 Many specific pigments and nanopigments that can be used are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 7,357,920.
以下實施例中舉例說明的組合物闡明了本發明的組合物的特定實施方案,但不意圖對其進行限制。在不脫離本發明的精神和範圍的情況下,技術人員可進行其它修改。舉例說明的實施方案1-5提供了可塑的無水化妝品組合物,具有高顏料負載。實施例6-9是不能顯示可接受的化妝品性能的配方的比較性說明,如下文更詳細論述的。 The compositions illustrated in the following examples illustrate specific embodiments of the compositions of the present invention, but are not intended to be limiting thereof. Other modifications may be made by a skilled artisan without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. The illustrated embodiments 1-5 provide plastic anhydrous cosmetic compositions with high pigment loading. Examples 6-9 are comparative illustrations of formulations that fail to exhibit acceptable cosmetic performance, as discussed in more detail below.
根據以下實施例的組合物可根據以下步驟製備:首先,將合成蜂蠟與微晶蠟和硬脂基二甲矽油/十八碳烯的每一種在容器中混合,將其加熱至約95℃以形成第一相。接著,在單獨的燒杯中,在約95℃下合併除了顏料和顆粒(雲母)的所有剩餘的成分以形成第二相。接著,合併第一相和第二相以形成單一混合物,保持約95℃的混合溫度。最後,加入顏料和顆粒至混合物中。混合直到各成分形成均勻的組合物,然後停止混合並允許混合物冷卻至室溫。 The composition according to the following embodiment can be prepared according to the following steps: First, synthetic beeswax is mixed with each of microcrystalline wax and stearyl dimethicone/octadecene in a container, which is heated to about 95°C to form a first phase. Then, in a separate beaker, all remaining ingredients except pigment and particles (mica) are combined at about 95°C to form a second phase. Then, the first phase and the second phase are combined to form a single mixture, maintaining a mixing temperature of about 95°C. Finally, the pigment and particles are added to the mixture. Mix until the ingredients form a uniform composition, then stop mixing and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature.
所有例舉的量作為重量百分比列出,並且不包括次要材料,例如稀釋劑、防腐劑、著色溶液、成象成分、植物材料等,除非另外指明。 All exemplified amounts are listed as weight percent and do not include minor materials such as diluents, preservatives, coloring solutions, imaging components, plant materials, etc. unless otherwise specified.
以下代表了本發明的化妝品組合物:
下表2說明了在表1提供的實施例中的比較性化妝品性能。觀察每個示例性的實施方案並評價其作為化妝品組合物的合適性。首先,評價組合物的可加工性。組合物必須具有良好的混合和傾倒性能。第二,在加工步驟後觀察產品,並評價它的拖曳、收效(payoff)、可塑性和感覺特徵。本文使用的術語“拖曳”是指產品施加到皮膚上的相對容易性。在感覺方面,具有低拖曳的產品感覺出在皮膚上滑動。相比之下,具有增加的拖曳的產品將顯示摩擦和不均勻施加到皮膚。本文使用的術語“收效”是指化妝品組合物當施加到皮膚時的顏色強度。感覺出更強烈的顏色強度與較高的相對收效有關,和感覺出較不強烈的顏色強度與較低的相對收效有關。 Table 2 below illustrates comparative cosmetic performance in the examples provided in Table 1. Each exemplary embodiment was observed and evaluated for its suitability as a cosmetic composition. First, the processability of the composition was evaluated. The composition must have good mixing and pouring properties. Second, the product was observed after the processing steps and evaluated for its drag, payoff, plasticity, and feel characteristics. The term "drag" as used herein refers to the relative ease with which a product is applied to the skin. In terms of feel, products with low drag feel like they slide on the skin. In contrast, products with increased drag will show friction and uneven application to the skin. The term "payoff" as used herein refers to the color intensity of the cosmetic composition when applied to the skin. A more intense perceived color intensity is associated with a higher relative yield, and a less intense perceived color intensity is associated with a lower relative yield.
本文公開的尺寸和值不應理解為嚴格限制所述的準確 數值。而是,除非另外指明,每個這樣的尺寸意圖指所述值和圍繞該值的功能等同範圍。例如,公開為“40mm”的尺寸意圖指“約40mm”。 The dimensions and values disclosed herein should not be construed as strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Rather, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to refer to the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "approximately 40 mm."
本文引用的每篇文獻,包括任何交叉引用或相關的專利或申請,通過引用以其整體併入本文,除非明確排除或另外限制。任何文獻的引用不承認它相對于本文公開或要求保護的任何發明是現有技術,或不承認它單獨或以與任何其它一篇或多篇參考資料的任何組合教導、提示或公開了任何這樣的發明。此外,在本文術語的任何含義或定義與通過引用併入的文獻中相同術語的任何含義或定義衝突的情況下,應以指定給本文術語的含義或定義為准。 Each document cited herein, including any cross-referenced or related patents or applications, is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. Citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein, or that it alone or in any combination with any other reference or references teaches, suggests, or discloses any such invention. Furthermore, in the event of a conflict between any meaning or definition of a term herein and any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to the term herein shall control.
儘管已經舉例說明和描述了本發明的具體實施方案,但對於本領域技術人員顯而易見的是,在不脫離本發明的精神和範圍的情況下可進行各種其它變化和修改。因此意圖在隨附請求項中涵蓋所有這樣的變化和修改,其落入本發明的範圍內。 Although specific embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. It is therefore intended that all such changes and modifications be covered in the appended claims as falling within the scope of the present invention.
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Citations (3)
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US5011680A (en) * | 1985-03-13 | 1991-04-30 | Kao Corporation | Solid cosmetic preparation |
WO2000027346A1 (en) * | 1998-11-06 | 2000-05-18 | L'oreal Sa | Make-up composition containing a blend of waxes |
US20030012754A1 (en) * | 2001-03-21 | 2003-01-16 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Solid cosmetics |
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US5011680A (en) * | 1985-03-13 | 1991-04-30 | Kao Corporation | Solid cosmetic preparation |
WO2000027346A1 (en) * | 1998-11-06 | 2000-05-18 | L'oreal Sa | Make-up composition containing a blend of waxes |
US20030012754A1 (en) * | 2001-03-21 | 2003-01-16 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Solid cosmetics |
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