TWI473919B - The Method and Structure of Cuffed Clothing - Google Patents

The Method and Structure of Cuffed Clothing Download PDF

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TWI473919B
TWI473919B TW100129880A TW100129880A TWI473919B TW I473919 B TWI473919 B TW I473919B TW 100129880 A TW100129880 A TW 100129880A TW 100129880 A TW100129880 A TW 100129880A TW I473919 B TWI473919 B TW I473919B
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weaving
crocheting
ring
needle
apparel
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TW100129880A
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TW201309859A (en
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An Li Lai
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An Li Lai
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Description

環狀物鉤織服飾之方法及其結構 Method and structure of looped crocheted garment

本發明係有關於提供一種編織方法與結構,尤其是有關於一種可以透過環狀物為素材使用編織技法來作自身或彼此之串接、編織或固定,使其更具有變化性可同時進行多重式織構,增加編織的靈活與多元,不僅為編織工藝帶來新的視覺饗宴,亦可達到增加其結構之細密與緊實之目的之環狀物鉤織服飾之方法。 The present invention relates to providing a weaving method and structure, and more particularly to a technique in which a weaving technique can be used as a material through a loop to splicing, weaving or fixing itself or each other to make it more versatile. The texture, which increases the flexibility and diversity of weaving, not only brings a new visual feast to the weaving process, but also a method of crocheting garments that increase the tightness and firmness of its structure.

「編織」從生活化拓展至藝術化,從傳統走向現代;傳統編織工藝發展至今,主要仍多以線性及線條編織發展為主。 "Weaving" has expanded from life to art, from tradition to modernity; the traditional weaving process has been developed to a large extent, mainly in the development of linear and line weaving.

編織的產品眾多,除了大眾熟悉的布料編織品如:衣服、圍巾、帽子、窗簾或是床單等等,還有許多利用塑膠、毛線、黃藤、樹葉來編織而成的生活用品,由此可見,編織品已經充分應用在我們的生活上,同時也是生活中不可或缺的一部份。 Weaving products are numerous, in addition to the familiar fabric weaving such as clothes, scarves, hats, curtains or bed sheets, as well as many daily necessities made of plastic, wool, yellow vines and leaves. Weaving products have been fully applied to our lives and are an integral part of our lives.

除此之外,編織對於一些民族還有著深遠的意義,如台灣的原住民族;從半個世紀前到現今,原住民各族都有手工編器,從田間採集、收穫要用編器、儲存種子要用編器、飲食器皿要用編器和捕魚時也都是使用編器;編織對於原住民的女性來說,更是深富著極重要的榮譽意義。 In addition, weaving has far-reaching significance for some ethnic groups, such as Taiwan's aboriginal people; from half a century ago to today, all aboriginal people have hand-knife, collecting and harvesting tools from the field, The use of encoders for the storage of seeds, the use of encoders for food and utensils, and fishing are also used for knitting. For the aboriginal women, it is of great honour.

編織是一項具有實用性的工藝美學,傳統文化編織工藝多是以線性及線條編織發展而成,一般編織的形狀常見的有菱形紋、卍字紋以及線條紋等等。在二次大戰大量的工業化後,編織工藝也藉助機器從事大量工業生產,以減少過多的人事成本以及製作時間,真正的藝術或許可以得到一些商業化利益,但卻失去了珍貴的原創性和藝術價值,此現象也同樣反映於時尚產業。 Weaving is a practical craft aesthetic. Traditional Chinese weaving techniques are developed by linear and line weaving. Generally, weaving shapes are commonly seen in diamond, stencil and line stripes. After the massive industrialization of the Second World War, the weaving process also engaged in a large number of industrial production by means of machines to reduce excessive personnel costs and production time. Real art may have some commercial benefits, but lost precious originality and art. Value, this phenomenon is also reflected in the fashion industry.

因此,如何能提供一個編織方法可以重新詮釋傳統文化,賦予現代感與藝術價值,是發明人亟欲解決之課題。 Therefore, how to provide a weaving method can reinterpret traditional culture and give modernity and artistic value, which is the subject that inventors want to solve.

有鑑於以往編織方法與結構之不完善,發明人經長時間不斷的研究開發,終於研發出此種可以利用環狀物編織而成的編織品,以達到增加編織的靈活性、多元化與藝術新意之目的之環狀物鉤織服飾之方法。 In view of the insufficiency of the weaving method and structure in the past, the inventors have developed a kind of woven fabric that can be woven with a ring by a long time of research and development, in order to increase the flexibility, diversity and art of weaving. The method of crocheting apparel for the purpose of the new purpose.

本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其係以一至多個環狀物為素材,利用工具或人手或兩者輔以編織技法來作自身或彼此之串接、編織或固定,該 工具係選用自鉤針、棒針、釘板、棒狀體之一至多種。 The method for crocheting apparel of the present invention is characterized in that one or more loops are used as materials, and the tools or human hands or both are used for knitting techniques to splicing, weaving or fixing themselves or each other. The tool is selected from one of a variety of crochet, a needle, a nail plate, and a rod.

本發明之主要目的在於藉由如此之設計,因每個環狀物都是一個完整的基本型,皆可獨立發展與其延伸,屬多重式織造特性,意即可同時進行多重式起頭、複合式結尾方法織造,其成品有別於一般傳統線性編織一線到底的方法,屬於單一起頭、結尾的特性品,環狀物鉤織最大特色為無縫衣、一體成形,環狀物鉤織更具有變化性可同時進行多重式織構,故環狀物鉤織成品式樣較線性編織靈活與多元,富含新意,不僅為編織工藝帶來新的視覺饗宴,亦可達到增加其結構之細密與緊實之目的。 The main purpose of the present invention is to design, because each ring is a complete basic type, can be independently developed and extended, and is a multi-woven feature, which means simultaneous multi-starting, compounding The finishing method is woven, and the finished product is different from the traditional linear woven one-line method. It belongs to the single head and the end of the characteristic. The biggest feature of the loop crochet is seamless garment, one-piece forming, and the loop crocheting has more changes. Sex can be multi-textured at the same time, so the crocheted finished pattern is more flexible and diverse than linear weaving. It is rich in new ideas, not only brings a new visual feast for the weaving process, but also increases the fineness and firmness of its structure. The purpose.

本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,為求突破傳統編織工藝線性織造方法,衍伸出環狀編織發展的可能,如小時後的跳繩便是以橡皮筋環環相扣製作而成,由此進行環狀編織試驗與設計,進而探索編織工藝與時尚藝術結合所產生的意義及藝術價值。 The method for crocheting apparel of the ring-shaped object of the invention is to break through the traditional weaving process linear weaving method, and to extend the possibility of ring-shaped weaving development, for example, the jumping rope after hours is made by interlocking rubber bands. This is a ring knitting test and design, and then explores the meaning and artistic value of the combination of weaving technology and fashion art.

本發明將利用編織的造形原理與材質應用,企圖創新設計方法,重新詮釋傳統文化,賦予現代感與藝術價值。 The invention will utilize the principle of woven shaping and material application, attempt to innovate the design method, reinterpret the traditional culture, and give modernity and artistic value.

本發明以環狀鉤織技法Circular Knitting為設計概念,環環相扣為設計原理,此方法有極佳的發展性與獨創性,運用彈性環狀橡皮筋為媒材,形塑於服飾構造上,並具無縫衣之特點,為新的服飾形態,亦是軟雕塑之纖維藝術作品。 The invention adopts the circular crocheting technique Circular Knitting as the design concept, and the interlocking ring is the design principle. This method has excellent development and originality, and uses the elastic annular rubber band as the medium to shape the clothing structure. With the characteristics of seamless clothing, it is a new form of clothing, and it is also a fiber art work of soft sculpture.

為了能讓審查員能更易於了解本發明之特點,請參閱本發明實施方式之說明。 In order to make it easier for the examiner to understand the features of the present invention, please refer to the description of the embodiments of the present invention.

請同時參閱圖一,圖一係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之示意圖。本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其係以一至多個環狀物10為素材(包含單環體或多環體),利用工具或人手或兩者輔以編織技法來作自身或彼此之串接、編織或固定,該工具係選用自鉤針、棒針、釘板、棒狀體之一至多種;藉由如此之設計,因每個環狀物都是一個完整的基本型,皆可獨立發展與其延伸,屬多重式織造特性,意即可同時進行多重式起頭、複合式結尾方法織造,其成品有別於一般傳統線性編織一線到底的方法,屬於單一起頭、結尾的特性品,環狀物10鉤織最大特色為無縫衣、一體成形,環狀物10鉤織具變化性可同時進行多重式織構,造型式樣多變、立體度佳、可塑性高,故以環狀物10鉤織成品式樣較線性編織靈活與多元,富含新意,不僅為編織工藝帶來新的視覺饗宴,亦可達到增加其形態之多元性與結構式樣之靈活度。 Please also refer to FIG. 1 , which is a schematic diagram of a method for crocheting apparel of the ring of the present invention. The method for crocheting apparel of the present invention is characterized in that one or more loops 10 are used as materials (including single or multi-rings), and tools or human hands or both are used as knitting techniques for themselves or each other. In series, woven or fixed, the tool is selected from one of a variety of crochet, rod, nail plate and rod-shaped body; by this design, each ring is a complete basic type, and can be independent The development and its extension are multi-weaving characteristics, which means that the multi-starting and compound-end method weaving can be carried out at the same time. The finished product is different from the traditional linear knitting one-line method. It belongs to a single head and end characteristic. The biggest feature of the object 10 is the seamless garment and the one-piece forming. The loop 10 crochet woven variability can carry out multiple textures at the same time. The styling style is changeable, the three-dimensionality is good, the plasticity is high, so the ring 10 is hooked. The woven finished product is more flexible and diverse than the linear weaving. It is rich in new ideas, not only brings a new visual feast for the weaving process, but also increases the flexibility of its form and the flexibility of the structure.

本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,可以包含一至多個線狀體,透過一至多個線狀體來與一至多個環狀物10作自身或彼此之串接、編織或固定。 The method for crocheting apparel of the present invention, wherein one or more linear bodies may be included, and one or more of the linear bodies 10 are connected to each other or to each other in series, woven or fixed.

本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,環狀物10可以具有彈性、塑性或延展性之其中至一至多種特性。 The method of entangled garments of the present invention, wherein the loop 10 can have one to more characteristics of elasticity, plasticity or ductility.

本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,環狀物10可以是橡皮筋、彈性繩或含尼龍、萊卡之人造纖維(石化合成纖維)、聚酯纖維具彈性成份之合成纖維等等;本發明以白色橡皮筋為主,其主因為環保、顏色罕見、彈性佳,使整體效果具有視覺張力與穿透感,近似於精緻蕾絲織品或白色毛線鉤織而成的織品,富含趣味與時尚感,同時亦能彰顯環狀物鉤織織造的紋 理與特色。未來還可朝不同尺寸、多彩色、複合媒材等多重織構方向發展,使其環狀鉤織成品更為活潑多元。 The method for crocheting apparel of the present invention, wherein the ring 10 may be a rubber band, an elastic rope or a synthetic fiber containing nylon, lycra (petrochemical synthetic fiber), polyester fiber with elastic composition, and the like; The invention is mainly composed of a white rubber band, and the main reason is that it is environmentally friendly, the color is rare, and the elasticity is good, so that the overall effect has visual tension and penetration feeling, and the fabric is similarly woven by delicate lace fabric or white wool, which is rich in fun and Stylish and at the same time, it also shows the woven woven fabric Management and characteristics. In the future, it is also possible to develop in multiple textures of different sizes, multi-colors, composite media, etc., making its ring-shaped crocheted products more lively and diverse.

本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,可以再包含配件,配件可以選自木製品、金屬製品、皮革製品、鑽石、陶製品、鉚釘、鈕扣、皮飾品、大頭釘、迴紋針、玻璃、塑膠、亮片、串珠、水晶或是緞帶等等之一至多數。 The method for crocheting apparel of the present invention, wherein the accessory may be further included, the accessory may be selected from the group consisting of wood products, metal products, leather products, diamonds, ceramics, rivets, buttons, leather accessories, tacks, paper clips, glasses. , plastic, sequins, beads, crystals or ribbons, and so on.

本發明並可包含一透過環狀物鉤織服飾之方法編織而成之環狀物鉤織服飾之結構,本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之結構可以是衣服、皮帶、帽子、背包、圍巾、斗篷或是飾品等等。 The invention can also comprise a structure of a looped crocheted garment woven by a method of crocheting a garment through a loop. The structure of the looped crocheted garment of the present invention can be clothes, belts, hats, backpacks, scarves, Cloaks or accessories, etc.

本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,亦可搭配其他編織工具,如:棒針、輪針、鉤針、釘板、城堡、製球器、毛線針、量針尺、記號圈、目數段數計、花形器、細繩、粗繩、軟木墊或珠針等等。 The method for crocheting the garment of the ring of the invention can also be combined with other weaving tools, such as: a needle, a needle, a crochet, a nail plate, a castle, a ball maker, a yarn needle, a needle gauge, a marker circle, and a number of mesh segments. Meter, flower shape, string, thick rope, cork mat or bead needle, etc.

此外,本發明者針對本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,自行設計了一款釘板,此釘板是以珠針模擬釘板原理織構(如附件1-1,附件1-1係為改良是釘板示意圖),其與市售釘板不同,珠針可任意調整移動繞組,織構形狀多元;而市售釘板則是固定釘子限於垂直水平織構繞組。 In addition, the inventors have designed a nail plate for the method of the crocheted garment of the present invention, which is based on the principle of the beaded needle simulation board (such as Annex 1-1, Annex 1-1). For the improvement is the nail plate diagram), which is different from the commercially available nail plate, the bead pin can adjust the moving winding arbitrarily, and the texture shape is diversified; and the commercially available nail plate is the fixed nail limited to the vertical horizontal texture winding.

以下再敘述幾種經由本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之實施例(但不侷限於此): Several embodiments of the method of crocheting apparel through the loop of the present invention are described below (but are not limited thereto):

(一)花形設計:請參閱附件1-2、1-3,附件一1-2、1-3係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第一實施例。以市售塑膠圓形織器為輔助工具,依序將大橡皮圈(6個)沿外緣對角勾勒→再將中橡皮圈(6個)同方法在內緣對角勾勒後→在圓心相交會處以小橡皮圈連續鉤12次短 針至完成→取出花形,翻至背面以小橡皮圈套過收尾處,即可暫先定型。 (1) Flower-shaped design: Please refer to Annexes 1-2 and 1-3, and Annexes 1-2 and 1-3 are the first embodiment of the method for crocheting garments of the present invention. Using a commercially available plastic circular weave as an auxiliary tool, the large rubber bands (6 pieces) are sequentially drawn along the outer edge of the outer edge → then the middle rubber band (6 pieces) is outlined at the inner edge diagonally → at the center of the circle The intersection will be hooked 12 times with a small rubber band. Needle to finish → remove the flower shape, turn to the back and use a small rubber band to cover the finishing end, you can temporarily set the shape.

(二)小組件、基本形成品:請參閱附件2-1,附件2-1係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第二實施例。基本形單元的構成,主要是運用不同尺寸的橡皮圈變化製做,不同的尺寸組合、勾勒方向、方法及正反面等因素,皆可產生結構完整且不同式樣的造形紋理,將其組合變化可運用於織品設計中,沒有一定可循的公式,依個人巧思喜好加以構思,即可發揮應用。 (2) Small components and basic formed products: Please refer to Appendix 2-1, which is a second embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the present invention. The basic unit is mainly composed of different sizes of rubber bands. Different size combinations, outline directions, methods and front and back factors can produce structurally complete and different styles of textures. In the fabric design, there is no formula that can be followed, and it can be applied according to the ingenuity of the individual.

(三)蝴蝶結式樣設計:鉤織數個蝴蝶結基本形後,輔以人台,運用珠針移動定點鉤織組合成形;請參閱附件3-1、附件3-2,附件3-1、附件3-2係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第三實施例。 (3) Bow-like design: After crocheting several basic shapes of bows, supplemented by a man's table, use bead-pin to move the fixed-point crochet combination; see Appendix 3-1, Annex 3-2, Annex 3-1, and Appendix 3- 2 is a third embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the present invention.

(四)圈圈式樣:鉤織數個圈圈基本形後→模擬釘板原理,利用珠針調整定位點→織構成面進而收邊;請參閱附件4-1、4-2、4-3,附件4-1、4-2、4-3係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第四實施例。 (4) Circle pattern: after crocheting several loops of basic shape → simulating the principle of nail board, use the needle to adjust the positioning point → weave the surface and then close the edge; please refer to Annex 4-1, 4-2, 4-3, The attachments 4-1, 4-2, and 4-3 are the fourth embodiment of the method of the crochet garment of the present invention.

(五)流蘇式樣:以跳繩為基本織構,製數條長短不等,相互串連即流蘇裙襬;請參閱附件5-1~5-8,附件5-1~5-8係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第五實施例。 (5) Fringe style: using skipping rope as the basic texture, the number of lengths varies, and the fringe skirts are connected in series; please refer to Appendix 5-1~5-8, Annex 5-1~5-8 A fifth embodiment of a method of inventing a loop crocheted garment.

(六)扇形式樣:運用短針及加針技法,順向編織而成;往上鉤疊一層即滾邊;請參閱附件6-1~6-4,附件6-1~6-4係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第六實施例。 (6) Fan form: using short needle and needle adding techniques, weaving in the same direction; hooking up one layer is rolling; please refer to Appendix 6-1~6-4, Annex 6-1~6-4 is the ring of the invention A sixth embodiment of a method of crocheting apparel.

(七)波浪式樣:此編織運用短針方法組構,其方向可順向,也可反向鉤回或組合,方向不同可產生分界紋理;隨圈數加針更可形成波浪曲線之 效果;請參閱附件7-1~7-5,附件7-1~7-5係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第七實施例。 (7) Wave pattern: This weaving uses short needle method to structure, its direction can be forward, or it can be reversed or combined, and the direction can be different to produce a boundary texture; with the number of turns, the needle can form a wave curve. The effect; please refer to the attachment 7-1~7-5, and the attachment 7-1~7-5 is the seventh embodiment of the method for the crochet garment of the ring of the invention.

(八)立體圈圈式樣:立體圈圈是在編織過程中,適時加入大、小橡皮圈織構組合;以兩管狀分別織構,兩相交合處接合鉤織一體;請參閱附件8-1,附件8-1係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第八實施例。 (8) Three-dimensional circle pattern: The three-dimensional circle is in the process of weaving, adding the large and small rubber ring texture combination in time; the two tubular textures are respectively combined, and the two-phase intersection is joined and crocheted; see Appendix 8-1 Attachment 8-1 is an eighth embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the present invention.

(九)羽毛式樣;最先是由環環相扣為基底,再進行編織過程中,適時的加入大、中、小橡皮圈,依序鉤織,即羽毛效果;依其尺寸控制長短版;請參閱附件9-1~9-4,附件9-1~9-4係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第九實施例。 (9) Feather pattern; firstly, the ring is interlocked as the base, and then in the weaving process, the large, medium and small rubber bands are added in time, and the crocheting is performed in order, that is, the feather effect; the length and length are controlled according to the size; Referring to the attachments 9-1 to 9-4, the attachments 9-1 to 9-4 are the ninth embodiment of the method of the looped crocheted garment of the present invention.

另外,請參閱附件10-1,附件10-1係為本發明透過環狀物鉤織服飾之方法編織而成之第十實施例。 In addition, please refer to Appendix 10-1, which is a tenth embodiment of the present invention woven by the method of crocheting the garment through the loop.

而本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,其收尾方法皆採小圈扣設計方法(請參閱附件11-1,以環環相扣織構原理,與其扣合收尾,如附件11-1~所示,故環狀鉤織皆可以一體成形之方法為主。以下說明其中幾種結尾方法: The method for crocheting apparel of the ring of the present invention, wherein the method for closing the tail adopts a small loop buckle design method (please refer to Appendix 11-1, with the interlocking texture principle of the loop ring, and buckle and close the tail, such as the attachment 11- As shown in 1~, the annular crochet can be formed by one-piece method. Here are some of the ending methods:

1.扣合方法說明:將小圈扣基本型鉤入結合織物內,將其最終之收口處繞過小圈扣扣合即可收尾成形,如附件11-2所示;運用小圈扣收尾環環相扣之原理特色,使整體結構完整緊密,如附件11-3所示。 1. Description of the fastening method: the basic type of the small loop buckle is hooked into the combined fabric, and the final closure is wrapped around the small loop to form the tail, as shown in Appendix 11-2; The principle of the interlocking principle makes the overall structure complete and compact, as shown in Annex 11-3.

2.小圈扣收尾之方法,也可運用至小物件或飾品,結構皆為完整緊密,與大物件主要之差別只在於小圈扣製做之大小,配合物件大小製作即可,如附件11-4所示。 2. The method of small circle buckle closing can also be applied to small objects or accessories, the structure is complete and compact, and the main difference with large objects is only the size of the small circle buckle, which can be made according to the size of the object, such as attachment 11 -4 is shown.

值得一提的是,本發明其理念與成品模糊了藝術和生活之間的界線,不再受限於生活實用性的飾品、衣物等,進一步地被引入藝術範疇,提升了心靈、精神層面的享受,同時或挑戰、或滿足著人們的視覺神經,產生更多的可能,激發更多的巧思與概念。 It is worth mentioning that the concept and finished product of the present invention blurs the line between art and life, and is no longer limited by the practicality of jewelry, clothing, etc., and is further introduced into the art category, which enhances the spiritual and spiritual level. Enjoy, at the same time, challenge or meet people's visual nerves, generate more possibilities, and stimulate more ingenuity and concepts.

在越來越高度工業化的現代社會中,編織從在地的設計和文化中淬煉出精髓,挖掘出表象之下最根本的語彙,工藝文化的手工藝是人類與自然最親近最直接面對的工作,其中更包括了作為社會行動的服飾與語言的連結,亦是傳統工藝與時尚的結合;本研究成果同時展現了個人的設計風格及表現手法,唯有如此才能將其精神轉繹至現代服飾創意思潮中,使創作作品擁有生命及表達能力,衍生出文化、藝術相融的意境美,更具時尚與新意。 In the increasingly industrialized modern society, weaving extracts the essence from the design and culture of the earth, and excavates the most fundamental vocabulary under the surface. The craftsmanship of craft culture is the most intimate and direct confrontation between man and nature. Work, which also includes the connection between clothing and language as a social action, and also the combination of traditional craftsmanship and fashion; the results of this research also show the individual's design style and expression techniques. Only in this way can the spirit be transferred to modern times. In the wave of fashion creation, the creation works have life and expressive ability, and the artistic conception of culture and art is derived, which is more fashionable and new.

隨著文明演進與科技的日新月異,迄今研發出眾多的原料與紡織品,其中更以織法、裁縫甚至是新的剪裁形式等,最為提升服飾的質感與精緻度;但就目標、目的或是物質目的而言,並沒有實質上的進步。日本服裝設計師川久保玲曾說過:「紡織機器讓時裝變得越來越像,織得毫無瑕疵的制服,它們讓人感覺很空洞,不是完美。相對地,手工縫製的服裝則可以達到完美的境界。」 With the rapid development of civilization and the rapid development of science and technology, many raw materials and textiles have been developed so far, including the weaving, tailoring and even new tailoring forms, which enhance the texture and refinement of the clothing; but the goal, purpose or substance For the purpose, there is no substantial progress. Japanese fashion designer Kawakubo has said: "Textile machines make fashion more and more like, and weaving flawless uniforms, they make people feel empty, not perfect. Relatively, hand-stitched clothing can reach The perfect state."

現代人相當注重、追求所謂個人的化風格,服飾可清楚傳達個人在社會上的存在,不僅是地位的表徵,更可彰顯一個人的意圖,布希亞(Jean Baudrillard,1929-2007,法國社會學家與哲學家,後現代主義代表人物之一)3Modern people pay considerable attention to and pursue the so-called personal style. Apparel can clearly convey the individual's existence in society. It is not only a representation of status, but also a person's intention. Jean Baudrillard (1929-2007, French sociology) Home and philosopher, one of the representatives of postmodernism) 3 .

因此,本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法及結構之另一目的為: Therefore, another object of the method and structure of the looped crochet garment of the present invention is:

1、探索編織最原始織造法與器具後,人類的雙手反而展現了各種織造的可能性,織品既為現實生活需要而作,亦為心靈美感的追求而為;從脈絡中瞭解,並試驗新式樣的可能,詮釋於服飾創作中,塑造個人化的風格與特色,這種獨創性,正符合現代社會民眾追求創新、與眾不同的心態,也是藝術中所要求的「創意」表現。 1. After exploring the most original weaving method and utensils, the human hands show the possibility of various weaving. The fabric is both for the needs of real life and for the pursuit of spiritual beauty; understanding and testing from the context The possibility of new styles is interpreted in the creation of costumes, shaping individual styles and characteristics. This originality is in line with the modern society's pursuit of innovation and distinctiveness, and it is also the "creative" performance required in art.

2、環狀物鉤織技法別於傳統編織線性化發展,創作過程以環環相扣為原理,運用彈性環狀材質織造出特有的紋理與豐富的變化,讓服飾可擁有更深的意涵與藝術價值,不在只有表象。 2. The loop crochet technique is different from the traditional weaving linearization. The creation process is based on the principle of interlocking, using the elastic ring material to weave the unique texture and rich changes, so that the clothing can have deeper meaning. The value of art is not only the appearance.

3、相對於編織工藝,纖維藝術則是以材質特性、肌理做表現,朝向純藝術領域發展,其作品成形技法及結構組織上亦和編、織各異其趣,皆以「線性」方法構織為主,本研究期望透過創新的「環狀」鉤織技法為纖維藝術領域帶來趣味化的發展及彈性環狀纖維素材的概念研發。 3. Compared with the weaving process, fiber art is based on material properties and texture, and develops towards the pure art field. Its forming techniques and structure are also different from those of knitting and weaving. Based on weaving, this study hopes to bring interesting developments in the field of fiber art and the development of flexible ring-shaped fiber materials through innovative "ring" crocheting techniques.

4、設計也是一種對日常生活的服務,與生活息息相關;設計是以物質創造具有實用價值的計畫與構想,期待台灣在良好的織品技術支援下,能培養更完善的服飾產業,從研發、設計、生產到品牌行銷。 4. Design is also a service to daily life, which is closely related to life. Design is to create practical projects with practical materials. It is expected that Taiwan can cultivate a more complete apparel industry with the support of good fabric technology. Design, production to brand marketing.

本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法及結構也位衣著帶來二次革命: The method and structure of the looped crocheted garment of the present invention also brought a second revolution:

一、彈性與混紡: First, elasticity and blending:

1938年美國杜邦公司發明了尼龍纖維(Nylon),主要銷售商品是當時婦女們所穿的絲襪。直到二次世界大戰後,紡織工業十分活耀,推出具彈性伸縮的材質(Spandex),更啟發服裝設計多元的走向,如可展現身材線條、合身度的踩腳褲、迷你裙、連身裝等,其針織服被受歡迎成為流行。 In 1938, DuPont of the United States invented nylon fiber (Nylon), which was mainly sold in stockings worn by women at the time. Until the Second World War, the textile industry was very active, and launched a flexible material (Spandex), which inspired the trend of fashion design, such as foot pants, mini skirts, and jumpsuits that can show body lines and fit. Etc., its knitwear is popular as popular.

在尼龍纖維之後,陸續開發了許多不同用途與手感的化學產物,原來 的彈性材質(Spandex)也被廠商賦予了「萊卡」(Lycar)的新名稱,一般布料只要含百分之二~三的萊卡便有雕塑衣型、合身具彈性的效果,更適用於各種活動機能性高的運動服,如韻律服、泳裝等;天然纖維遇水則縮的致命傷,也因在材質結構中加入萊卡或人造纖維混合、混紡,得以改善解決。 After nylon fiber, many chemical products with different uses and feels have been developed. The flexible material (Spandex) has also been given the new name of "Lycar" by the manufacturer. As long as the fabric has a 2-3 percent Leica, it has a sculptural shape and a flexible effect. It is more suitable for various activities. Highly functional sportswear, such as rhythm suits, swimwear, etc.; natural fibers are fatal to shrink when exposed to water, and are also improved by adding lycra or man-made fiber blends and blends in the material structure.

由此可知「材質」的份量已不亞於服裝外形設計,彼此間都占有等量齊觀、並駕齊驅的重要性,為服飾產品的要素,且具有本質表現力特質。 It can be seen that the "material" is no less than the shape of the garment, and it has the same importance of being equal and equal in each other. It is an element of the apparel product and has the essential expressive qualities.

織品工藝的現代化發展,更推動時尚界啟發新的思維與創意,織造成形的服飾逐步朝向多功能和高檔化階段,由最初的注重保暖、實用功能到現今強調舒適休閒、美觀、流行及個人風格的表現,進而帶出美好的穿著經驗與美感價值。 The modern development of fabric technology has promoted the fashion industry to inspire new thinking and creativity. The weaving and shaping apparel is gradually moving towards the stage of multi-function and high-grade. From the initial emphasis on warmth and practical functions to the present emphasis on comfortable leisure, beauty, fashion and personal style. The performance, and then bring a good wearing experience and aesthetic value.

二、形式獨具: Second, the form is unique:

「上機成形」是針織獨有的成形方法,織造過程只需選定紗線,即可上機編製成形;調整彎紗深度與線圈大小,即可控制面料成因,如質感、伸縮性、厚度和均勻度等,故針織面料具良好伸縮性、柔軟性和防皺性。在工業、醫療衛生、國防等方面也多運用針織織作功能性服裝及用品。 "Forming machine" is a unique forming method for knitting. The weaving process only needs to select the yarn, so it can be machined and formed. By adjusting the bending depth and the coil size, we can control the fabric cause, such as texture, flexibility, thickness and Uniformity, etc., so the knitted fabric has good flexibility, softness and wrinkle resistance. Knitting and weaving functional clothing and supplies are also used in industry, health care, and national defense.

隨著針織技術的發展,針織服裝可應用各種不同原料,在針織設備上進行編織,如棉、麻、絲、化纖、混紡、各種新型紗線以及花式紗線編織,其面料組織、花型變化靈活、範圍廣,形成各種肌理效應:如平坦、凹凸、網孔、紋波外觀或具光澤、絲絨、呢絨感等效果,再加上面料本身的舒適性、適體性佳、風格多元適於四季穿搭。由此可見,針織服裝性能極佳具有滿足市場需求的優勢。針織易於成形產品滿足性比梭織物強,如一些特 殊的版型:帽子、襪子、柔軟舒適的內衣等,相較之下比梭織更廣為運用。 With the development of knitting technology, knitted garments can be applied to various knitting materials, such as cotton, hemp, silk, chemical fiber, blended, various new yarns and fancy yarn weaving, fabric organization and pattern. Flexible and wide-ranging, forming various texture effects: such as flatness, bump, mesh, ripple appearance or luster, velvet, woolen sensation, etc., plus the fabric's own comfort, aptitude, and style Wear it in all seasons. It can be seen that knitwear has excellent performance and has the advantage of meeting market demand. Knitted easy-to-form products are more satisfying than shuttle fabrics, such as some special Special editions: hats, socks, soft and comfortable underwear, etc., are more widely used than woven.

在材質結構中加入萊卡或人造纖維、萊卡彈性纖維、萊卡(Lycar)、尼龍纖維(Nylon)、喀什米爾羊毛、各式紗線、大小不一的半透明尼龍繩、橡皮筋、塑膠條、羊毛條以及髮圈或某種環狀的彈性材質,如聚酯與化學纖維等高科技功能性材料等混合媒材、混紡,以異材質織錦結構疊出流動的曲線,展現多種層次與質感,或各種纖維或非纖維的環狀媒材其成份,如:棉、麻、絲、毛、銅線、鐵絲、金屬線圈、塑膠繩、釣魚線、會發光的布料以光纖織造而成皆可。 In the material structure, add Lycra or rayon, Lycra elastic fiber, Lycar, Nylon, Kashmir wool, various yarns, translucent nylon ropes of different sizes, rubber bands, plastic strips, wool Strips and hair rings or some kind of ring-shaped elastic materials, such as polyester and chemical fiber and other high-tech functional materials, such as mixed media, blended, stacked with a different material brocade structure, showing a variety of layers and textures, or Various fiber or non-fiber annular medium materials such as cotton, hemp, silk, wool, copper wire, iron wire, metal coil, plastic rope, fishing line, and light-emitting fabric can be woven by optical fiber.

技術表現上,可採單一或混合技法成形,結構組織上亦和編織工藝各異其趣,也可運用線性及環狀複合方法織造,或使用複合媒材,使環狀鉤織形式變化式樣更多元豐富。 In terms of technical performance, it can be formed by single or mixed technique, and the structure and organization are also different from the weaving process. It can also be woven by linear and annular composite methods, or using composite media to make the ring crochet form change pattern more. Diversified and rich.

隨染織工業興起,原料應用範圍拓寬,人們也越來越意識到觸覺的重要性,天然纖維材質漸被絲、毛、棉等柔性奢華的材質取代。其編織材料主要的特性是在於紗型的變化,可運用各種紡捻技術,產生不同紗型的纖維線材。紗型變化是指紗型的變化處理,包括紗線的紡捻變化。 With the rise of dyeing and weaving industry, the application of raw materials has broadened, and people are increasingly aware of the importance of touch. Natural fiber materials are gradually replaced by flexible and luxurious materials such as silk, wool and cotton. The main characteristic of the woven material is the change of the yarn type, and various kinds of spinning technology can be used to produce fiber wires of different yarn types. The yarn type change refers to the change process of the yarn type, including the spinning change of the yarn.

依據不同材料的屬性,擁有各自不同的質感。例如棉、毛的纖維短而細,帶給人溫暖柔順的舒適感;蠶繭的絲纖維,長而纖細,光澤中帶有一股高雅的貴族氣息。尤其到了六○年代石化工業興盛,人造化學纖維材質廣為研發,補強了天然纖維的不足,使織物更具抗皺、防水、延展性佳之特性,並延伸各種纖維材料混紡、交織等技術與織機,使其織物產生光滑、粗澀、蓬鬆等多種質性或花色紋理,織造上更為豐富多變。 According to the properties of different materials, they have different textures. For example, the fibers of cotton and wool are short and thin, giving a warm and supple comfort; the silk fibers of silkworm cocoons are long and slender, with an elegant aristocratic scent. Especially in the 1960s, the petrochemical industry prospered, and the artificial chemical fiber materials were widely researched and developed to reinforce the shortage of natural fibers, making the fabric more resistant to wrinkles, water and ductility, and extending the blending and interweaving of various fiber materials and weaving machines. The fabric is smooth, rough, fluffy and other textures or textures, and the weaving is more varied.

編織是一門操作的藝術,技藝部分主要受到牽經、織緯及織法組織所 制約,即以線條、線性交織組合發展,且操作過程多需仰賴織具或織機輔以完成;不織物除外。無論使用織機或織具兩者操作及技藝的運用,皆需費時學習才能熟悉與之變化、發展。 Weaving is an art of operation, and the art part is mainly influenced by the organization of weaving, weaving and weaving. Constraints, that is, the development of lines and linear interlacing, and the operation process depends on the aid of the weaving machine or the weaving machine; except for the fabric. No matter the operation of the loom or the weaving machine and the use of the craft, it takes time to learn to be familiar with the changes and development.

以機械編織而言,在藝術創作領域上較有所限制,因織機不易攜帶,使用上往往受限於固定場域,且織造上又有其制約,例如:六針的手搖機織不了太粗的紗線,勉強織造的結果,不是卡機就是斷針,機器直接罷工抗議9In terms of mechanical weaving, there are some restrictions in the field of artistic creation. Because the weaving machine is not easy to carry, the use is often limited by the fixed field, and the weaving has its constraints. For example, the six-needle hand machine can not be too thick. The result of the yarn, barely weaving, is not the card machine is the broken needle, the machine directly strikes protest 9 .

再者,機械織機織作前必須按照步驟,先有一道整經的手續,而後才能進行編織,使用不同纖維或粗細的紗線就必須在不同的織機上織造;如需進行後製纖維紡織染加工、生產也都會有其區別與規範性,這也是目前機械織機在藝術創作方面未能普及應用的原因。 Furthermore, the mechanical weaving machine must follow the steps before weaving, and then we must have a warping procedure before weaving. Different yarns or thick yarns must be woven on different weaving machines; if we need to make fiber textile dyeing Production and production will also have their differences and norms, which is why mechanical weaving machines have not been widely used in artistic creation.

以上所述僅是藉由較佳實施例詳細說明本發明,然而對於該實施例所作的任何修改與變化,例如環狀物之材質及種類、編織工具之種類、配件之位置、收尾的方法或是編織之技巧等等之變化均不脫離本發明之精神與範圍。 The above description is only intended to explain the present invention in detail by the preferred embodiments, however, any modifications and variations to the embodiments, such as the material and type of the ring, the type of the knitting tool, the position of the fitting, the method of closing, or Variations in the techniques of weaving, etc., do not depart from the spirit and scope of the present invention.

由以上詳細說明可使熟知本項技藝者明瞭本發明的確可達成前述之目的,實已符合專利法之規定,爰依法提出發明專利申請。 From the above detailed description, those skilled in the art can understand that the present invention can achieve the foregoing objects, and has already met the requirements of the Patent Law, and has filed an invention patent application according to law.

【附件簡單說明】 [A brief description of the attachment]

附件1-1 係為改良是釘板示意圖 Attachment 1-1 is a modification of the nail plate

附件1-2、1-3 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第一實施例 Attachments 1-2 and 1-3 are the first embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the present invention

附件2-1 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第二實施例 Attachment 2-1 is a second embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the present invention

附件3-1、3-2 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第三實施例 Attachment 3-1, 3-2 is a third embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the present invention

附件4-1~4-3 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第四實施例 Annexes 4-1~4-3 are the fourth embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the ring of the present invention

附件5-1~5-8 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第五實施例 Attachment 5-1~5-8 is a fifth embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the ring of the present invention

附件6-1~6-4 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第六實施例 Attachment 6-1~6-4 is a sixth embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the ring of the present invention

附件7-1~7-5 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第七實施例 7-1 to 7-5 are the seventh embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the present invention

附件8-1 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第八實施例 Attachment 8-1 is an eighth embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the present invention

附件9-1~9-4 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之第九實施例 Annex 9-1~9-4 is a ninth embodiment of the method for crocheting apparel of the ring of the present invention

附件10-1 係為本發明透過環狀物鉤織服飾之方法編織而成之第十實施例 Attachment 10-1 is a tenth embodiment of the present invention woven by a method of crocheting clothing by a loop

附件11-1~11-4 係為本發明透過環狀物鉤織服飾之方法編織而成之收尾圖 示 Annexes 11-1~11-4 are the finishing diagrams of the method of the invention for weaving garments through loops. Show

10‧‧‧環狀物 10‧‧‧rings

圖一 係為本發明環狀物鉤織服飾之方法之示意圖 Figure 1 is a schematic view of a method for crocheting garments of the present invention

10‧‧‧環狀物 10‧‧‧rings

Claims (6)

一種以環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其係以一至多個環狀物為素材,利用工具或人手或兩者輔以編織技法來作自身或彼此之串接、編織或固定,該工具係選用自棒針、輪針、鉤針、釘板、城堡、製球器、毛線針、量針尺、記號圈、目數段數計、花形器、細繩、粗繩、軟木墊或珠針之一至多種,令每個環狀物都是一個完整的基本構件,皆可獨立發展與其延伸,可同時進行多重式起頭及複合式結尾方式織造;藉由如此之設計,環狀物鉤織服飾之方法具變化性可同時進行多重式織構,造型式樣多變、立體度佳、可塑性高,更為靈活與多元,富含新意,其成品有別於一般傳統線性編織一線到底的方式,屬於單一起頭、結尾的特性品,不僅為編織工藝帶來新的視覺饗宴,亦可達到增加其形態之多元性與結構式樣之靈活度。 A method for crocheting a garment with a loop, which uses one or more loops as a material, and uses a tool or a human hand or both to provide a weaving technique for itself or in tandem, weaving or fixing with each other. Use one of the needle, the needle, the crochet, the nail plate, the castle, the ball maker, the wool needle, the needle gauge, the mark ring, the number of the number of the number, the flower shape, the string, the thick rope, the cork pad or the needle to A variety of, so that each ring is a complete basic component, can be independently developed and extended, can be multi-start and composite end-weaving at the same time; by this design, the method of ring-shaped crochet clothing With variability, multiple textures can be carried out at the same time. The modeling style is changeable, the stereoscopicity is good, the plasticity is high, and it is more flexible and diverse. It is rich in new ideas. The finished product is different from the traditional linear knitting one-line way. At the end, the characteristic products not only bring a new visual feast for the weaving process, but also increase the flexibility of the form and the flexibility of the structure. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,可以包含一至多個線狀體,透過一至多個線狀體來與一至多個環狀物作自身或彼此之串接、編織或固定。 The method of claim 1 , wherein one or more linear bodies may be included, and one or more linear bodies are passed through one or more linear bodies for themselves or each other. Threaded, braided or fixed. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,環狀物可以具有彈性、塑性或延展性之其中至一至多種特性。 The method of claim 2, wherein the annulus may have one or more characteristics of elasticity, plasticity or ductility. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,環狀物可以是橡皮筋、彈性繩或含尼龍、萊卡之人造纖維、聚酯纖維具彈性成份之合成纖維。 The method of claim 2, wherein the ring may be a rubber band, an elastic rope or a synthetic fiber comprising nylon, lycra rayon, and polyester fiber having an elastic component. 如申請專利範圍第1項、第2項、第3項或第4項所述之環狀物鉤織服飾之方法,其中,可以再包含配件,配件可以選自木製品、金屬製品、 皮革製品、鑽石、陶製品、鉚釘、鈕扣、皮飾品、大頭釘、迴紋針、玻璃、塑膠、亮片、串珠、水晶或是緞帶之一至多數。 The method for crocheting apparel according to the first, second, third or fourth aspect of the patent application, wherein the accessory may be further included, the accessory may be selected from the group consisting of wood products and metal products. Leather products, diamonds, ceramics, rivets, buttons, leather accessories, tacks, paper clips, glass, plastic, sequins, beads, crystals or ribbons to most. 一種環狀物鉤織服飾,其係如申請專利範圍第1項、第2項、第3項或第4項所述之環狀物鉤織服飾之方法所製成之結構。 A loop crocheted garment, which is a structure made by the method of crocheting garments of the loops described in claim 1, item 2, item 3 or item 4.
TW100129880A 2011-08-19 2011-08-19 The Method and Structure of Cuffed Clothing TWI473919B (en)

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TW396225B (en) * 1996-11-06 2000-07-01 Golden Lady Spa Knitting machine and method for the production of a garment, and knitted garment
TW200730682A (en) * 2007-03-21 2007-08-16 Teng-Wei You A warp knitting method of curtain fabric
CN101608377A (en) * 2008-06-18 2009-12-23 辉盟国际股份有限公司 The improvement manufacture method of knitwear

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TW396225B (en) * 1996-11-06 2000-07-01 Golden Lady Spa Knitting machine and method for the production of a garment, and knitted garment
TW200730682A (en) * 2007-03-21 2007-08-16 Teng-Wei You A warp knitting method of curtain fabric
CN101608377A (en) * 2008-06-18 2009-12-23 辉盟国际股份有限公司 The improvement manufacture method of knitwear

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