由高光澤(高光亮)彩色化妝品賦予的外觀被認為是有魅力和感官愉悅的。然而，高光亮產品傾向於在皮膚或毛髮上具有很少的持久力。剝落和塗汙是高光亮產品的常見問題。為了減少剝落和塗汙，可能採取對於非光澤睫毛膏產品來說不必要的措施。一種這樣的措施是在睫毛膏組合物中使用成膜劑。這樣的材料提供一定水準的光澤和持久力，但光澤與所用成膜劑的量成比例。如果需要太多的成膜劑以實現光澤水準，則產品將變硬，這使得其易於破裂，並且難以單獨用水除去。
成膜系統也可用於賦予睫毛捲曲，尤其是如果薄膜在其乾燥時收縮。在這樣的系統中，必須選擇成膜劑的類型和量以提供恰好適量的收縮力和乾燥時間。太小的收縮力和短的乾燥時間意味著睫毛將捲曲很少或根本不捲曲，而太大的收縮力和長的乾燥時間將導致不期望的、不自然的外觀。因此，高光澤並且還使睫毛捲曲的睫毛膏甚至更難以配製。
成膜系統中的另一個問題是隨著溶劑蒸發，傾向於損失顏色強度、真實顏色和/或光亮(即，組合物不充分“耐用”)。
因此，實現高光亮、真實顏色睫毛膏組合物，不是簡單的任務，該睫毛膏組合物為睫毛提供適量的捲曲，同時避免穩定性問題，例如脫水收縮。這種挑戰由於必須解決的其它消費品需求(例如易於從睫毛上去除)而進一步加劇。迄今為止，還沒有實現令人滿意的結果。因此，仍然需要滿足這些和其它消費者需求的睫毛膏組合物。提供高光澤、耐久性睫毛膏組合物將是特別有利的，該組合物捲曲和延長睫毛，並提供真實顏色，同時表現出減少的剝落和塗汙。本發明提供了這樣的組合物。
常規的睫毛膏製劑包括水包油乳液睫毛膏，其通常可具有1:7至1:3的油相:水之比。通常，水包油睫毛膏不能很好地經得住暴露于水和潮濕。還存在油包水睫毛膏，其主要益處是耐水和長期耐久性，但通常遭遇從睫毛上除去產品的困難，並且乾燥時間長。
相比之下，共同待審的申請US15/632,903公開了高光亮彩色化妝品組合物，其是柔性的、耐塗汙和剝落、以及耐油，使得它們非常適合作為高光亮、耐久性化妝品。這些組合物最初是親水的，但乾燥時是疏水的。該組合物包含在化妝品上可接受的基質或遞送載體中的丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物和丙烯酸酯共聚物的特定組合，並且適合作為睫毛膏產品。然而，這個申請沒有公開如本文所公開的包含10%至30%的苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨和1%至6%的作為增塑劑的丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物的組合物以及其益處，如本文首次描述的。The appearance imparted by high-gloss (high-gloss) color cosmetics is considered attractive and sensory pleasing. However, high-gloss products tend to have little staying power on the skin or hair. Peeling and smearing are common problems with high-gloss products. In order to reduce flaking and smearing, measures that are unnecessary for non-glossy mascara products may be taken. One such measure is to use a film former in the mascara composition. Such materials provide a certain level of gloss and staying power, but the gloss is proportional to the amount of film former used. If too much film former is required to achieve the gloss level, the product will become hard, which makes it easy to crack and difficult to remove with water alone.
Film forming systems can also be used to impart curl to eyelashes, especially if the film shrinks as it dries. In such a system, the type and amount of film-forming agent must be selected to provide just the right amount of shrinkage and drying time. Too small shrinkage force and short drying time means that eyelashes will curl little or no curl at all, while too much shrinkage force and long drying time will result in an undesirable, unnatural appearance. Therefore, a mascara that has high gloss and also curls the eyelashes is even more difficult to formulate.
Another problem in film forming systems is that as the solvent evaporates, it tends to lose color intensity, true color, and/or brightness (ie, the composition is not sufficiently "durable").
Therefore, it is not a simple task to achieve a high-gloss, true-color mascara composition. The mascara composition provides an appropriate amount of curl to the eyelashes while avoiding stability problems such as syneresis. This challenge is further exacerbated by other consumer product requirements that must be addressed, such as easy removal from the eyelashes. So far, no satisfactory results have been achieved. Therefore, there is still a need for mascara compositions that meet these and other consumer needs. It would be particularly advantageous to provide a high-gloss, durable mascara composition that curls and lengthens the eyelashes and provides true color while exhibiting reduced flaking and smearing. The present invention provides such a composition.
Conventional mascara formulations include oil-in-water emulsion mascaras, which can generally have an oil phase:water ratio of 1:7 to 1:3. Generally, oil-in-water mascaras do not withstand exposure to water and moisture well. There are also water-in-oil mascaras, the main benefits of which are water resistance and long-term durability, but usually suffer from difficulties in removing the product from the eyelashes and have a long drying time.
In contrast, the co-pending application US15/632,903 discloses high-gloss color cosmetic compositions, which are flexible, resistant to smearing and peeling, and oil resistant, making them very suitable as high-gloss, durable cosmetics. These compositions are initially hydrophilic, but are hydrophobic when dry. The composition includes a specific combination of acrylate/VA copolymer and acrylate copolymer in a cosmetically acceptable base or delivery vehicle, and is suitable as a mascara product. However, this application does not disclose a composition containing 10% to 30% ammonium styrene/acrylic copolymer and 1% to 6% acrylate/VA copolymer as a plasticizer and its benefits as disclosed herein , As described for the first time in this article.
除了在操作和對比實施例中，或在另有明確說明的情況下，本描述中表示材料或反應條件的量或比率、材料的物理性質和/或用途的所有數字均應理解為由詞語“約”修飾。除非另有說明，所有百分比均按最終組合物的重量計。
在整個本說明書中，“成膜劑”等是指聚合物在將其所施用到的基底上留下薄膜，例如，在伴隨成膜劑的溶劑已蒸發、吸收入基底和/或消散在基底上之後。
“捲曲”是指睫毛膏產品引起經處理的睫毛相對於未經處理的睫毛彎曲(上睫毛向上彎曲，下睫毛向下彎曲)的程度。“長度”是睫毛從自由尖端到其在皮膚中的插入點的尺寸。“剝落”是指在經過規定的使用時間後脫離睫毛的睫毛膏塊。“塗汙”是當接觸皮膚或其它表面時，睫毛膏在規定的使用時間後塗抹的傾向。睫毛膏與來自皮膚或環境的水分和/或油混合促進了塗汙。剝落和塗汙是睫毛膏組合物的不期望的品質，而捲曲和延長通常是期望的。
“抗轉移”是指本發明的組合物不容易通過與另一種材料如衣服或水偶然接觸而除去。抗轉移性可以通過本領域已知的任何方法來評價。例如，可基於從使用者的皮膚或毛髮轉移到任何其它基底如衣服上的產品的量來評價組合物。例如，如果產品的大部分留在使用者的皮膚或毛髮上，則組合物可能是抗轉移的。此外，轉移的量可以與通過其它組合物，例如市售可得的組合物轉移的量進行比較。在本發明的優選實施方案中，很少或沒有組合物從皮膚或毛髮轉移到另一基底上。
“真實顏色”組合物是其中所施用的組合物的顏色在一段時間後保持與施用到皮膚或毛髮時相同或基本上相同的那些組合物。
在溶劑蒸發後保持顏色強度、真實顏色和光亮度的組合物被認為表現出“良好的耐用性”或“耐久性”。
“柔性”組合物是當為了其預期用途而施用於皮膚或毛髮時，在限定的時間段內，例如使用四小時或八小時，不破裂或剝落的組合物。如果組合物不是足夠柔性的，則它是“剛性的”。
“耐水”是指在允許沉積在皮膚或毛髮上的組合物乾燥或固化後，其不溶解或再潤濕或吸收水分，或者在其他方面在顯著程度上不受到水的不利影響。
“單相”是指組合物呈穩定的均勻形式，而不是多相的油包水或水包油乳液形式。
“包含”等是指要素列表可以不限於明確列舉的那些。
苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨
本發明的第一種主要成分是苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨(2-丙烯酸，與乙烯基苯的聚合物，銨鹽)，它是苯乙烯和由丙烯酸或甲基丙烯酸組成的單體的聚合物的銨鹽。在本發明中，苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的薄膜提供了收縮力，當其乾燥時，該收縮力使睫毛捲曲。
本發明的組合物通常包含按組合物的總重量計約10%至約30%的苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨，例如按組合物的總重量計10%至25%、10%至20%、10%至15%、15%至30%、15%至25%、15%至20%、20%至30%、20%至25%、25%至30%、或11.25%至27%。大於約30%將使組合物太硬。優選10%至25%，更優選15%至20%。
具有各種玻璃化轉變溫度的苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨是市售可得的。在本發明中，這些可以單獨使用或組合使用。優選的是恰好兩種苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的組合，其玻璃化轉變溫度的比為2:1至3:1，並且兩者都不大於35℃。當較大Tg
與較小Tg
的比在2:1至3:1的範圍內時，則較大Tg
聚合物與較小Tg
聚合物的相對濃度將為約1:1至4:1。對於在2:1至3:1之外的Tg
比，兩種苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的不同相對濃度可以通過反復試驗獲得。
例如，來自Daido Chemical Corp.的Vinysol 1012JC和Vinysol 1013JH可能是有用的。Vinysol 1012JC和Vinysol 1013JH是苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的45.0%含水混合物。據報導Vinysol 1012JC和Vinysol 1013JH是陰離子型的，具有6.5和9.0之間的pH，以及5和500 mPa-s之間的黏度。據報導Vinysol 1012JC的計算的玻璃化轉變溫度(Tg
)為15℃，而據報導Vinysol 1013JH的計算的玻璃化轉變溫度(Tg
)為30℃。更高Tg
意味著薄膜將更硬。假定這兩種聚合物的玻璃化轉變溫度的比為2:1，本發明的組合物中Vinysol 1013JH與Vinysol 1012JC的相對濃度將為約1:1至4:1。
如所指出的，Vinysol 1012JC和Vinysol 1013JH是苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的45.0%含水混合物。因此，當使用Vinysol 1012JC、Vinysol 1013JH或兩者的組合時，為了實現上述苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的濃度，Vinysol 1012JC和Vinysol 1013JH的總濃度應為按組合物的總重量計約22.2%至約66.7%。按組合物的重量計，優選的是約22.2%至55.6%，更優選的是33.3%至44.4%，最優選的是約40%。
丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物
本發明的第二種主要成分是丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物(INCI名稱)，C15
H26
O4
，也稱為乙酸乙烯酯或丙-2-烯酸2-乙基己酯(IUPAC名稱)；CAS號25067-02-1。關於詳細資訊，參見PubChem化合物資料庫；CID=168269。
在化妝品中，這種材料通常用作黏結劑、成膜劑、黏合劑和/或毛髮固定劑。然而，在本發明中，我們公開了丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物作為苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的增塑劑的用途。看起來在本文公開的溫度下混合時，丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物打開苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的一些鍵。不希望受理論的束縛，或許部分丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物插入到苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的結構中，因此拉長和弱化了一些鍵。
因此，根據本發明的組合物將賦予的捲曲程度可通過調節苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨與丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物的比來控制。本發明的組合物通常包含按組合物的總重量計0.5%至2.8%的丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物，例如按組合物的總重量計0.5%至2.5%、0.5%至2.0%、0.5%至1.5%、0.5%至1.0%、1.0%至2.8%、1.0%至2.5%、1.0%至2.0%、1.0%至1.5%、1.5%至2.8%、1.5%至2.5%、1.5%至2.0%、2.0%至2.8%、2.0%至2.5%或2.5%至2.8%。濃度小於約0.5%的丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物不能充分地增塑苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨，並且所得的組合物將過度收縮，導致睫毛不自然的過度捲曲。該組合物也將非常脆，因此易於剝落。濃度大於約2.8%的丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物將使組合物更容易從施用表面上除去，而且還使苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的收縮力太小而不影響睫毛捲曲，並且損害睫毛膏的耐水性。本文公開的苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨和丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物的濃度達到了平衡，其導致商業上可接受的具有優異性能的睫毛膏組合物。
丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物是市售可得的，例如，作為來自Daido Chemical Corp.的Vinysol 2140L。據報導，Vinysol 2140L的pH為4.5，黏度為2,000 mPa-s，計算的玻璃化轉變溫度(Tg
)為-9℃。Vinysol 2140L是丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物的46.6%含水混合物。因此，當使用Vinysol 2140L時，為了實現上述丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物的濃度，Vinysol 2140L的濃度應為按組合物的總重量計約1%至6%。
組合物的形式和其它成分
本發明優選的組合物是單一水相，並且不具有凝膠、蠟、油或矽樹脂。顏料是任選的。對於賦予光亮和捲曲而沒有額外顏色的透明塗層，在組合物中將沒有顏料。另一方面，對於本發明的賦予顏色的組合物，該組合物通常包含至多10%的顏料。
本發明的組合物應包含按總組合物的重量計至少50%的水。這種水量是來自所有來源的水量，例如Vinysol 2140L、Vinysol 1012JC和Vinysol 1013JH中的水量。本發明的組合物的一個有利特徵是它們在使用前和使用期間是親水的，但在乾燥時是疏水的，這使得所施用的組合物防水。在含水的親水狀態下配製的能力是本發明的很大的優點，所述親水狀態乾燥至疏水狀態(同時具有本文所述的其它有益性質)。當組合物處於第一或親水狀態時，與水溶性成分配製的能力增強，並且化妝品的施用更容易且感覺更好。當乾燥至第二或疏水狀態時，所施用的組合物抵抗由於暴露於水分而分解。
為了在第一狀態下實現足夠的親水性，疏水材料的使用應限制為不超過基於組合物的總重量的約0.5%；優選不超過0.25%。根據最終組合物的性能，部分親水和部分疏水的材料可能超過這種限制。在本發明的一些實施方案中，優選的是組合物不包含疏水成分，例如疏水性油或蠟。油是在環境溫度下為液體的有機物質，例如酯、甘油三酯、烴和矽樹脂。用於化妝品組合物的典型蠟是巴西棕櫚蠟。在本發明的一些實施方案中，最優選的是組合物不含疏水性油或蠟。然而，在乾燥成薄膜時，薄膜明顯地顯示出疏水性，使其耐水。該組合物保持在原位，對睫毛具有優異的黏附性。此外，該組合物保持其高度的光亮、透明度、真實顏色和顏色強度，使其成為優異的耐久性組合物。
化妝品組合物中可以包括各種成分以微調消費者體驗或增強組合物的性能。例如，醇可用於在施用後加速乾燥和/或用作防腐劑。可以使用至多5%的醇的量。化妝品組合物還可以根據需要包含防腐劑，通常按組合物的重量計至多約2%。此外，增稠劑、黏度降低劑和/或pH調節劑可以根據需要使用以產生消費者可接受的產品，其水準通常為按組合物的重量計小於1%。在這些水準下，上述提到的成分似乎不會對組合物的化妝品和商業性質產生不利影響。
二醇，也稱為二元醇(包含兩個羥基的化合物)是任選的，但有時可用于本發明。二醇，例如1,3-丙二醇，通常可以用於化妝品中以增強組合物的凍融穩定性。二醇也可防止在低溫下丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物的聚合。二醇的使用應限於不超過4%的總二醇，優選不超過1%的總二醇，更優選不超過0.5%的總二醇。
由於本發明不包括乳液形式，優選避免表面活性劑和乳化劑，或僅偶爾以痕量存在。如果存在于本發明的含水組合物中，表現出乳化劑或表面活性劑性質的任何材料將具有小於12的HLB。因此，基於組合物的總重量，優選的是組合物包含不超過3%的表面活性劑和/或乳化劑，更優選不包含表面活性劑或乳化劑。
此外，為了提高乾燥的薄膜的透明度，優選的是，組合物不包含會干擾乾燥的化妝品組合物的透明度或光亮的水準的黏土顆粒或任何種類的不溶解的顆粒材料。至少，黏土顆粒或不溶解的顆粒材料的濃度必須限制在不阻礙乾燥的薄膜中所期望的光亮水準的水準。優選地，本發明的組合物包含不超過0.25%的黏土顆粒或不溶解的顆粒材料，更優選不含黏土顆粒或不溶解的顆粒材料。這個規則的一個例外是尼龍纖維。為了增加睫毛的延長，本發明的組合物中可以包括按總組合物的重量計至多約10%的透明尼龍纖維。在常規的乳液型睫毛膏中，尼龍纖維可限制到約2%，因為超過約2%傾向於破壞乳液的黏度和穩定性。這與本文公開的單相含水組合物不同：濃度高達10%的透明尼龍纖維不會破壞乾燥的產品的穩定性、透明度、真實顏色和光亮。
顯著干擾乾燥薄膜結構的試劑可能降低光亮、透明度或顏色。因此，優選的是本發明的組合物包含總計不超過1.5%的結構化劑，例如黃原膠、蠟、黏土(例如膨潤土)或硬脂酸。更優選地，本發明的組合物包含總計不超過0.05%的結構化劑。最優選地，本發明的組合物不包含結構化劑。這個規則的有用的例外是硬脂酸鈉。與許多結構化劑不同，硬脂酸鈉是部分親水的，這使得它適合於含水系統。儘管硬脂酸鈉是部分疏水的，但它的使用似乎沒有損害本發明的目的。這使得當需要結構化劑或黏度劑時，其在本發明的睫毛膏實施方案中特別有用。可以包括按總組合物的重量計至多13%的硬脂酸鈉作為結構化劑。超過該量似乎干擾苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨捲曲睫毛的能力。
以下非限制性實施例說明本發明的其它實施方案。 實施例 1 實施例 2 實施例 3 實施例 4
成分 濃度 %
1
Vinysol 2140L 2.0 2.5 2.5 2.5
2
Vinysol 1012JC 30.0 40.0 ----- 10.0
2
Vinysol 1013JH ----- ----- 40.0 30.0
黃原膠 0.9 1.11 1.11 1.11
尼龍-6纖維 5.0 10.0 10.0 10.0
3
Distinctive® Ink Black Chip AQ 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9
苯氧乙醇 0.83 0.8 0.8 0.8
氯二甲苯酚 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
SD醇 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5
丙二醇 2.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
水 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
1
丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物的46.6%含水混合物。2
苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨的45.0%含水混合物。3
Black 2 (和)聚酯-5 (和) PVP (和) Laureth-4 (40%碳黑)。
製備根據本發明的睫毛膏組合物的優選程式如下。
1. 在室溫下在容器中，在一部分水中混合並溶解苯乙烯/丙烯酸類共聚物銨和丙烯酸酯/VA共聚物(當用已經以溶液提供的這些材料(即Vinysol 1012JC、Vinysol 1013JH和Vinysol 2140L)工作時，可以省略該步驟)。
2. 逐步加入剩餘成分，充分混合以獲得均勻的物質。
3. 使其冷卻至約40℃。
4. 將組合物倒入包裝中。
5. 使其冷卻至環境溫度。
注意，如果組合物如上所述包括硬脂酸鈉，則硬脂酸鈉將首先與一部分水混合，並加熱到95℃。繼續混合，然後使硬脂酸鈉冷卻到50℃。在進行上述步驟1之後，將丙烯酸酯溶液加入硬脂酸鈉中，並混合直至均勻。然後繼續上述步驟2-5。
本發明的睫毛膏組合物在睫毛上產生薄膜，該薄膜在其乾燥時收縮，同時仍保持一些柔性。結果是單相含水睫毛膏，其賦予高光亮和捲曲，同時抵抗轉移、塗汙和剝落。乾燥後，所施用的睫毛膏是防水的和耐久的。Except in the operation and comparative examples, or where expressly stated otherwise, all numbers in this description that indicate the amount or ratio of materials or reaction conditions, the physical properties and/or uses of the materials should be understood as the words " About" modified. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages are by weight of the final composition.
Throughout this specification, "film-forming agent" and the like refer to the polymer leaving a thin film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, when the solvent accompanying the film-forming agent has evaporated, absorbed into the substrate and/or dissipated on the substrate After going up.
"Curl" refers to the degree to which the mascara product causes the treated eyelashes to bend relative to the untreated eyelashes (upper eyelashes bend upward and lower eyelashes bend downward). "Length" is the size of the eyelashes from the free tip to the point of insertion in the skin. "Peeling" refers to the mass of mascara that detaches from the eyelashes after a prescribed time of use. "Smearing" is the tendency of mascara to be applied after a specified period of use when it comes in contact with skin or other surfaces. The mascara is mixed with moisture and/or oil from the skin or the environment to promote smearing. Peeling and smearing are undesirable qualities of mascara compositions, while curling and elongation are generally desirable.
"Anti-transfer" means that the composition of the present invention is not easily removed by accidental contact with another material such as clothing or water. Metastasis resistance can be evaluated by any method known in the art. For example, the composition can be evaluated based on the amount of product transferred from the user's skin or hair to any other substrate such as clothing. For example, if most of the product is left on the skin or hair of the user, the composition may be transfer resistant. In addition, the amount transferred can be compared with the amount transferred through other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, little or no transfer of the composition from the skin or hair to another substrate.
"True color" compositions are those in which the color of the applied composition remains the same or substantially the same as when applied to the skin or hair after a period of time.
A composition that maintains color intensity, true color, and brightness after the solvent evaporates is considered to exhibit "good durability" or "durability."
A "flexible" composition is a composition that does not break or flake within a defined period of time, such as four or eight hours of use when applied to the skin or hair for its intended use. If the composition is not sufficiently flexible, it is "rigid".
"Water resistance" means that after the composition deposited on the skin or hair is allowed to dry or solidify, it does not dissolve or remoisturize or absorb water, or is not adversely affected by water to a significant extent in other respects.
"Single phase" means that the composition is in a stable uniform form, rather than a multiphase water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.
"Contains" and the like mean that the list of elements may not be limited to those explicitly enumerated.
Styrene/Acrylic Copolymer Ammonium
The first main component of the present invention is styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium (2-acrylic acid, polymer with vinylbenzene, ammonium salt), which is composed of styrene and monomers composed of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid The ammonium salt of the polymer. In the present invention, the styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium film provides shrinking force, which curls the eyelashes when it dries.
The composition of the present invention generally contains about 10% to about 30% of the styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium based on the total weight of the composition, for example, 10% to 25%, 10% to 20% based on the total weight of the composition. , 10% to 15%, 15% to 30%, 15% to 25%, 15% to 20%, 20% to 30%, 20% to 25%, 25% to 30%, or 11.25% to 27%. More than about 30% will make the composition too hard. It is preferably 10% to 25%, more preferably 15% to 20%.
Ammonium styrene/acrylic copolymers with various glass transition temperatures are commercially available. In the present invention, these can be used alone or in combination. Preferably, it is a combination of exactly two styrene/acrylic copolymer ammoniums with a glass transition temperature ratio of 2:1 to 3:1, and neither of them is greater than 35°C. When larger Tg
With smaller Tg
When the ratio is in the range of 2:1 to 3:1, the larger Tg
Polymer and smaller Tg
The relative concentration of the polymer will be about 1:1 to 4:1. For T outside 2:1 to 3:1g
In comparison, the different relative concentrations of the two styrene/acrylic copolymers of ammonium can be obtained by trial and error.
For example, Vinysol 1012JC and Vinysol 1013JH from Daido Chemical Corp. may be useful. Vinysol 1012JC and Vinysol 1013JH are 45.0% aqueous mixtures of styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium. It is reported that Vinysol 1012JC and Vinysol 1013JH are anionic, with a pH between 6.5 and 9.0, and a viscosity between 5 and 500 mPa-s. It is reported that the calculated glass transition temperature of Vinysol 1012JC (Tg
) Is 15℃, and it is reported that the calculated glass transition temperature of Vinysol 1013JH (Tg
) Is 30°C. Higher Tg
This means that the film will be harder. Assuming that the glass transition temperature ratio of the two polymers is 2:1, the relative concentration of Vinysol 1013JH and Vinysol 1012JC in the composition of the present invention will be about 1:1 to 4:1.
As noted, Vinysol 1012JC and Vinysol 1013JH are 45.0% aqueous mixtures of styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium. Therefore, when Vinysol 1012JC, Vinysol 1013JH or a combination of the two are used, in order to achieve the above-mentioned styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium concentration, the total concentration of Vinysol 1012JC and Vinysol 1013JH should be about 22.2% based on the total weight of the composition To about 66.7%. By weight of the composition, it is preferably about 22.2% to 55.6%, more preferably 33.3% to 44.4%, and most preferably about 40%.
Acrylate/VA copolymer
The second main component of the present invention is acrylate/VA copolymer (INCI name), C15
H26
O4
, Also known as vinyl acetate or 2-ethylhexyl prop-2-enoate (IUPAC name); CAS number 25067-02-1. For details, see PubChem compound database; CID=168269.
In cosmetics, this material is commonly used as a binder, film former, adhesive and/or hair fixative. However, in the present invention, we disclose the use of acrylate/VA copolymer as a plasticizer for styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium. It appears that when mixed at the temperatures disclosed herein, the acrylate/VA copolymer opens some of the bonds of the styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium. Without wishing to be bound by theory, perhaps part of the acrylate/VA copolymer is inserted into the structure of the styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium, thus lengthening and weakening some bonds.
Therefore, the degree of curl to be imparted by the composition according to the present invention can be controlled by adjusting the ratio of styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium to acrylate/VA copolymer. The composition of the present invention usually contains 0.5% to 2.8% of the acrylate/VA copolymer based on the total weight of the composition, for example, 0.5% to 2.5%, 0.5% to 2.0%, 0.5% to 0.5% based on the total weight of the composition. 1.5%, 0.5% to 1.0%, 1.0% to 2.8%, 1.0% to 2.5%, 1.0% to 2.0%, 1.0% to 1.5%, 1.5% to 2.8%, 1.5% to 2.5%, 1.5% to 2.0% , 2.0% to 2.8%, 2.0% to 2.5%, or 2.5% to 2.8%. The acrylate/VA copolymer at a concentration of less than about 0.5% cannot sufficiently plasticize the styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium, and the resulting composition will shrink excessively, resulting in unnatural excessive curling of eyelashes. The composition will also be very brittle and therefore easy to peel off. The acrylate/VA copolymer at a concentration greater than about 2.8% will make the composition easier to remove from the application surface, and it will also make the styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium shrink too small without affecting eyelash curling and damaging the mascara The water resistance. The concentrations of the styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium and acrylate/VA copolymer disclosed herein are balanced, which results in a commercially acceptable mascara composition with excellent properties.
Acrylate/VA copolymers are commercially available, for example, as Vinysol 2140L from Daido Chemical Corp. According to reports, Vinysol 2140L has a pH of 4.5, a viscosity of 2,000 mPa-s, and a calculated glass transition temperature (Tg
) Is -9°C. Vinysol 2140L is a 46.6% aqueous mixture of acrylate/VA copolymer. Therefore, when Vinysol 2140L is used, in order to achieve the above-mentioned acrylate/VA copolymer concentration, the concentration of Vinysol 2140L should be about 1% to 6% based on the total weight of the composition.
Composition form and other ingredients
The preferred composition of the present invention is a single aqueous phase and does not have gels, waxes, oils or silicone resins. The pigment is optional. For clear coats that impart shine and curl without additional color, there will be no pigments in the composition. On the other hand, for the color-imparting composition of the present invention, the composition usually contains at most 10% pigment.
The composition of the present invention should contain at least 50% water by weight of the total composition. This amount of water is the amount of water from all sources, such as the amount of water in Vinysol 2140L, Vinysol 1012JC, and Vinysol 1013JH. An advantageous feature of the compositions of the present invention is that they are hydrophilic before and during use, but are hydrophobic when dry, which makes the applied composition waterproof. The ability to formulate in a water-containing hydrophilic state is a great advantage of the present invention, which is dried to a hydrophobic state (while having the other beneficial properties described herein). When the composition is in the first or hydrophilic state, the ability to formulate with water-soluble ingredients is enhanced, and the application of cosmetics is easier and feels better. When dried to a second or hydrophobic state, the applied composition resists decomposition due to exposure to moisture.
In order to achieve sufficient hydrophilicity in the first state, the use of hydrophobic materials should be limited to no more than about 0.5% based on the total weight of the composition; preferably no more than 0.25%. Depending on the properties of the final composition, partially hydrophilic and partially hydrophobic materials may exceed this limit. In some embodiments of the invention, it is preferred that the composition does not contain hydrophobic ingredients, such as hydrophobic oils or waxes. Oils are organic substances that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as esters, triglycerides, hydrocarbons, and silicone resins. A typical wax used in cosmetic compositions is carnauba wax. In some embodiments of the invention, it is most preferred that the composition does not contain hydrophobic oils or waxes. However, when dried into a film, the film clearly shows hydrophobicity, making it water resistant. The composition remains in place and has excellent adhesion to eyelashes. In addition, the composition maintains its high brightness, transparency, true color and color intensity, making it an excellent durable composition.
Various ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition to fine-tune the consumer experience or enhance the performance of the composition. For example, alcohol can be used to accelerate drying after application and/or as a preservative. An amount of alcohol up to 5% can be used. The cosmetic composition may also contain preservatives as needed, usually up to about 2% by weight of the composition. In addition, thickeners, viscosity reducers, and/or pH adjusters can be used as needed to produce consumer-acceptable products, the level of which is generally less than 1% by weight of the composition. At these levels, the ingredients mentioned above do not seem to adversely affect the cosmetic and commercial properties of the composition.
Diols, also known as glycols (compounds containing two hydroxyl groups) are optional, but can sometimes be used in the present invention. Diols, such as 1,3-propanediol, can generally be used in cosmetics to enhance the freeze-thaw stability of the composition. Diols can also prevent the polymerization of acrylate/VA copolymers at low temperatures. The use of diols should be limited to no more than 4% of the total diols, preferably no more than 1% of the total diols, and more preferably no more than 0.5% of the total diols.
Since the present invention does not include an emulsion form, it is preferable to avoid surfactants and emulsifiers, or only occasionally be present in trace amounts. If present in the aqueous composition of the present invention, any material that exhibits emulsifier or surfactant properties will have an HLB less than 12. Therefore, based on the total weight of the composition, it is preferred that the composition contains no more than 3% of surfactants and/or emulsifiers, more preferably no surfactants or emulsifiers.
In addition, in order to increase the transparency of the dried film, it is preferable that the composition does not contain clay particles or any kind of insoluble particulate material that would interfere with the level of transparency or brightness of the dried cosmetic composition. At the very least, the concentration of clay particles or insoluble particulate material must be limited to a level that does not hinder the desired brightness level in the dried film. Preferably, the composition of the present invention contains no more than 0.25% of clay particles or insoluble particulate material, more preferably without clay particles or insoluble particulate material. An exception to this rule is nylon fiber. In order to increase eyelash extension, the composition of the present invention may include up to about 10% of transparent nylon fibers based on the weight of the total composition. In conventional emulsion mascaras, nylon fibers can be limited to about 2%, because more than about 2% tends to destroy the viscosity and stability of the emulsion. This is different from the single-phase aqueous composition disclosed herein: the transparent nylon fiber at a concentration of up to 10% will not damage the stability, transparency, true color and brightness of the dried product.
Reagents that significantly interfere with the structure of the dried film may reduce brightness, transparency, or color. Therefore, it is preferred that the composition of the present invention contains a total of not more than 1.5% of a structuring agent, such as xanthan gum, wax, clay (such as bentonite) or stearic acid. More preferably, the composition of the present invention contains no more than 0.05% structuring agent in total. Most preferably, the composition of the invention does not contain a structuring agent. A useful exception to this rule is sodium stearate. Unlike many structuring agents, sodium stearate is partially hydrophilic, which makes it suitable for aqueous systems. Although sodium stearate is partially hydrophobic, its use does not seem to compromise the purpose of the present invention. This makes it particularly useful in the mascara embodiment of the present invention when a structurant or viscosity agent is required. It is possible to include up to 13% of sodium stearate as a structuring agent by weight of the total composition. Exceeding this amount appears to interfere with the ability of the styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium to curl eyelashes.
The following non-limiting examples illustrate other embodiments of the invention. Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4
Element Concentration %
1 Vinysol 2140L 2.0 2.5 2.5 2.5
2 Vinysol 1012JC 30.0 40.0 ----- 10.0
2 Vinysol 1013JH ----- ----- 40.0 30.0
Xanthan gum 0.9 1.11 1.11 1.11
Nylon-6 fiber 5.0 10.0 10.0 10.0
3 Distinctive® Ink Black Chip AQ 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9
Phenoxyethanol 0.83 0.8 0.8 0.8
Chloroxylenol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
SD alcohol 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5
Propylene Glycol 2.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
water QS QS QS QS
1 46.6% aqueous mixture of acrylate/VA copolymer. 2 A 45.0% aqueous mixture of styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium. 3 Black 2 (and) Polyester-5 (and) PVP (and) Laureth-4 (40% carbon black).
The preferred formula for preparing the mascara composition according to the present invention is as follows.
1. In a container at room temperature, mix and dissolve styrene/acrylic copolymer ammonium and acrylate/VA copolymer in a portion of water (when using these materials that have been provided as solutions (ie Vinysol 1012JC, Vinysol 1013JH and Vinysol) 2140L) When working, this step can be omitted).
2. Gradually add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly to obtain a homogeneous substance.
3. Allow it to cool to about 40°C.
4. Pour the composition into the packaging.
5. Allow it to cool to ambient temperature.
Note that if the composition includes sodium stearate as described above, the sodium stearate will first be mixed with a portion of the water and heated to 95°C. Continue mixing, then allow the sodium stearate to cool to 50°C. After performing step 1 above, add the acrylate solution to the sodium stearate and mix until uniform. Then continue with steps 2-5 above.
The mascara composition of the present invention produces a film on the eyelashes, which shrinks as it dries, while still maintaining some flexibility. The result is a single-phase aqueous mascara that imparts high shine and curl, while resisting transfer, smearing, and peeling. After drying, the applied mascara is waterproof and durable.
