TW201330865A - Hair care composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A hair colouring composition comprising an emulsion comprising: (a) hydrophobically modified particles selected from the group consisting of silica, metal oxide and mixtures thereof; (b) amino functionalised silicone; (c) an iron salt or complex; and (d) water.

Description

Hair care composition

The present invention relates to hair dye compositions.

For many years, it has been known that polyphenolic compounds dyed with metal ions can be used to dye hair for humans. A dye composition containing a metal salt is described in EP 0327345 (Beecham), WO 2010/135237 (Advance Cosmetic Technologies); WO/2007/130777 and WO 2000/29036 (Henkel).

However, compositions containing metal salts such as iron are often unstable when stored. The present invention alleviates the problem of instability of compositions containing iron stains, especially phase separation.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a hair coloring composition comprising an emulsion comprising: a) hydrophobically modified particles selected from the group consisting of cerium oxide, metal oxides, and mixtures thereof; b) amine functionalized a oxoxane; c) an iron salt or a complex; and d) water.

The invention further relates to a kit for hair coloring comprising: (i) a first composition comprising a source of polyphenols or polyphenols, (ii) a second composition according to any of the preceding claims.

The invention also describes a method of dyeing hair comprising the step of applying the above-described composition or kit to the hair.

Description of the invention Emulsion

The composition of the present invention may be a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably, it is an oil-in-water emulsion.

Unless otherwise stated, the viscosity of the oxirane can be measured by the glass capillary viscometer method further proposed by Dow Corning Test Method CTM004 on July 20, 1970.

Iron salt or complex

The composition of the present invention comprises an iron salt or a complex.

Preferably, the iron-containing composition of the present invention comprises from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of the total composition of iron, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 4% by weight. weight%.

The concentration of metal ions in the blend can be determined by quantitative elemental analysis.

For the avoidance of doubt, if the blend contains 2% by weight of a complex (molecular weight 446.14), it will contain 55.84/446.14 * 2 = 0.25% by weight of iron (II) (take two decimal places).

The iron may be present in the form of a salt or a complex.

If the iron is present in the form of a salt, it is preferred that the salt be ferric chloride.

If present in the form of a complex having a ligand, it is preferred that the ligand be organic in nature.

In the context of the present invention, a ligand is a molecule comprising more than one (preferably 2 to 4, and most preferably 2) groups coordinated to a metal ion. The groups for coordination with metal ions are COO ^- , OH, ketones, esters, primary amines, secondary amines and tertiary amines, preferably COO ^- , tertiary amines and OH, most preferably COO ^- And OH. Polyphenols are not allowed as polydentate ligands.

The ligand-metal complex can be preformed prior to the addition of the composition, such as iron (II) gluconate or iron (II) glutamate. The ligand-metal complex can be formed in the composition via the addition of an iron salt and a ligand, such as FeCl ₂ and sodium lactate. Preferably, the molar ratio of iron ions to ligand is from 1:1 to 1:4, more preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:2.5.

Preferably, the metal ion is in the form of a complex which is soluble in the aqueous solution at the pH of the blend. Most preferably, the metal ion in the form of the salt and/or complex has a solubility in deionized water at a pH of the blend of greater than 0.1 g/l.

Hydrophobically modified particles

The composition of the present invention comprises particles of hydrophobically modified cerium oxide or metal oxide. Preferably, the hydrophobic particles comprise cerium oxide or titanium oxide, more preferably hydrophobically modified vermiculite (cerium oxide).

A particularly good case is if the hydrophobically modified cerium oxide meets the following formula: Wherein R is a C ₄ to C ₁₈ alkyl group.

In a particularly good case, the hydrophobically modified cerium oxide meets the following formula:

Preferred cerium oxide particles are described in U.S. Patent No. 7,282,236, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. Ceria having a C4 to C15 alkyl group attached to decane is preferred. Particularly preferred is octyldecane (trade name: Aerosil R805) containing a group represented by the above formula.

Preferably, the hydrophobically modified ceria has a primary particle size (in its dry state) of from 1 nm to 100 nm, more preferably from 5 to 70 nm.

The primary particle size can be derived from transmission electron microscopy according to the method described in S. Gu et al in Journal of Colloid and Interface Science 289 (2005) 419-426.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention contains from 0.05 to 15% by weight of the total composition of the hydrophobically modified cerium oxide, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight.

Amino-functionalized helioxane

The composition according to the invention comprises an amine functional siloxane.

"Amino-functionalized oxane" refers to a oxane containing at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium group.

The primary, secondary, tertiary, and/or tertiary amine groups may form part of the polymer backbone or, more preferably, be carried by a side group or pendant group carried on the polymer backbone.

Suitable amine functionalized oxane polymers useful in the present invention are described in U.S. Patent 4,185,087.

The amino-functionalized oxiranes suitable for use in the present invention typically have a molar % amine functionality in the range of from about 0.1 to about 8.0 mole percent, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5.0 mole percent, most preferably. It is from about 0.1 to about 2.0 mol%. In general, the concentration of the amine should not exceed about 8.0 mole percent since it has been found that excessive amine concentrations may be detrimental to total oxane deposition, thereby affecting conditioning performance.

In a preferred embodiment, the functionalized polymer is a polymer having an amine-terminated polydimethylmethoxide of the formula: Wherein each R is independently H or C _1-4 alkyl, preferably H; each R ¹ is independently OR or C _1-4 alkyl; and each x is independently an integer from 1 to 4 and each y is Greater than zero and independently an integer to produce a polymer having a molecular weight of from 500 to 1 million, preferably from 750 to 25,000, optimally from 1,000 to 15,000. Particularly preferred are oxiranes containing an amino diol copolymer. Patent preferable is (C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ alkoxy) the PG amine terminated polydimethylsiloxane, such as Dow Corning Company 8500 the DC.

Functionalized polymers comprising trimethylsilyamodimethicone are also within the scope of the invention.

Preferably, the amount of the amine functionalized siloxane polymer constitutes from 0.05 to 15% by weight of the total composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the hydrophobically modified particles to the amine functionalized helioxane is from 3:1 to 1:50, more preferably from 1:1 to 1:10.

When using a high proportion (greater than 1:1) of hydrophobically modified particles to amines In the case of a ratio of oxane to oxane, if a non-amino functional oxirane is present, the weight of the non-amino functional oxirane to the amine functional oxirane is preferably greater than 1:1. More preferably, it is greater than 2:1.

Suitable non-amino functional oxiranes are described in the following paragraphs.

Conditioning phase

Preferably, the iron-containing emulsion is present in the conditioner (conditioned) substrate.

Such conditioner bases will typically comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Suitable conditioning surfactants include those selected from cationic surfactants used alone or in combination. Preferably, the cationic surfactant has the formula N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ wherein R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl or benzyl. Preferably, one, two or three of R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently (C ₄ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl groups, while the other R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ groups are independently Is (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl or benzyl. More preferably, one or two of R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently (C ₆ to C ₃₀ )alkyl, and the other R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ groups are ( C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl or benzyl. Alternatively, the alkyl group may comprise one or more esters (-OCO- or COO-) and/or other ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. The alkyl group can be optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be a straight chain or a branched chain, and an alkyl group having 3 or more carbon atoms may be a ring shape. The alkyl group can be saturated or can contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). The alkyl group on the alkyl chain can be selectively ethoxylated with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

Suitable cationic surfactants for use in the conditioner composition according to the present invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride , tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethyl Benzyl ammonium chloride, decyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, dodecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, di (octadecyl) dimethyl chloride Ammonium, tallow-based trimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethylammonium chloride (eg Arquad 2HT/75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2- Oil-based ammonium chloride and its corresponding hydroxide. Further suitable cationic surfactants include those having the CTFA designation of quaternary ammonium-5, quaternary ammonium-31 and quaternary ammonium-18. Any mixture of the foregoing may also be suitable. A cationic surfactant which is particularly useful in the conditioners according to the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, which may, for example, be GENAMIN CTAC, available from Hoechst Celanese. Another cationic surfactant which is particularly useful in the conditioners according to the invention is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, which is commercially available, for example, as GENAMIN KDMP from Clariant.

Another example of a suitable class of cationic surfactants that can be used in the present invention (either alone or in combination with one or more other cationic surfactants) is a combination of the following (i) and (ii): (i) corresponds to Amidinoamine of the formula (I): Wherein R ¹ is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ are each independently selected from a hydrocarbyl chain having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer of 1 to about 10; ) an acid.

As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain refers to an alkyl or alkenyl chain.

Preferred amidinoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) wherein R ¹ is a hydrocarbyl residue having from about 11 to about 24 carbon atoms, and R ² and R ³ are each independently a hydrocarbyl residue, preferably Is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 4.

Preferably, R ² and R ³ are methyl or ethyl groups.

Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e., an ethyl or propylene group is extended.

Preferred guanamine amines for use herein include stearylamine-propyldimethylamine, stearylamine propyldiethylamine, stearylamine ethyldiethylamine, stearylamine Ethyl dimethylamine, palmitosylpropyl dimethylamine, palmitosylpropyldiethylamine, palmitosylethyldiethylamine, palmitosylethyl dimethylamine, twenty-two Alkylaminopropyl dimethylamine, behenylaminopropyldiethylamine, behenylaminoethyldiethylamine, behenylaminoethylamine, peanut Amidoxime propyl dimethylamine, peanut melamine propyldiethylamine, peanut decylaminoethylamine, peanut decylethyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred guanamine amines for use herein are stearyl propyl dimethyl dimethylamine, stearyl amide ethyl diethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available guanamine amines for use herein include: LEXAMINE S-13 available from Inolex (Philadelphia, PA, USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), available from Nikko The obtained stearylamine ethyldiethylamine (trade name: AMIDOAMINE S), behenylaminopropyl dimethylamine available from Croda (North Humberside, UK) The trade name is INCROMINE BB) and various guanamine amines available from Scher (Clifton, NJ, USA) (trade name SCHERCODINE series).

There may be protonating acid. The acid can be any organic or inorganic acid capable of protonating the guanamine amine in the conditioner composition. Suitable acids for use herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The primary action of the acid is to protonate the guanamine amine in the hair treatment composition to form a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition. An effective TAS is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudoquaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

Suitably, the amount of acid included is sufficient to protonate more than 95 mole % (293 K) of the guanamine amine present.

In the conditioner of the present invention, the amount of the cationic surfactant is usually in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight of the composition, more preferably 0.05% to 7.5%, most preferably 0.1% to 5%. .

The hair conditioner of the present invention usually also contains a fatty alcohol. It is particularly advantageous to use a combination of a fatty alcohol and a cationic surfactant in the conditioning composition as this results in the formation of a lamellar phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

Representative fatty alcohols contain from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols are compounds which usually contain a linear alkyl group. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The benefit of using these materials also lies in their ability to promote the overall conditioning properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The amount of the fatty alcohol in the conditioner of the present invention is usually in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight of the composition, preferably 0.1% to 8%, more preferably 0.2% to 7%, most Good is 0.3% to 6%. The weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty alcohol is suitably from 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:8, and desirably from 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty alcohol is too high, this may result from eye irritation of the composition. If it is too low, it may cause some consumers to feel dry hair.

Suitable non-amino functionalized cerias include polydiorganooxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes, the CTFA of which is designated dimethicone. Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention (especially shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyloxoxanes having hydroxyl end groups, the CTFA of which is designated dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are those having a slight degree of crosslinking as described in WO 96/31188.

The emulsified alkane itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) typically has a viscosity of at least 10,000 centistokes. Preferably, the oxime itself has a viscosity of at least 60,000 centistokes, most preferably at least 500,000 centistokes, and desirably at least 1,000,000 centistokes. Preferably, for ease of formulation, the viscosity does not exceed 10 ⁹ centistokes.

The average oxymethane particle size used in the emulsified siloxane of the present invention will generally be less than 30 microns, preferably less than 20 microns, and more preferably less than 10 microns. Most preferably, the emulsified oxirane in the composition has an average oxymethane particle size of less than 2 microns, desirably in the range of 0.01 to 1 micron. A buffered aerobicane having an average siloxane volume of ≦ 0.15 μm is generally referred to as a microemulsion.

The siloxane size can be determined by laser light scattering techniques using a 2600D particle size analyzer from Malvern Instruments.

Suitable oxirane emulsions for use in the present invention are also commercially available in pre-emulsified form.

Examples of suitable preformed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of polydimethyl methoxy alcohol. The crosslinked rubber can also be obtained in the form of a pre-emulsified, which is advantageous for ease of formulation. A preferred example is a material of DC X2-1787 (which is a crosslinked polydimethyl methoxy oxime emulsion) obtained from Dow Corning.

A further preferred embodiment is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a microemulsion of crosslinked polydimethyl methoxy oxylate.

The total amount of decane which is included in the composition of the present invention depends on the desired The degree of conditioning and the substances used. A preferred amount is from 0.01% to about 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Product form

In order to avoid oxidation of the metal by air, it is preferred to store the composition in an airtight container, such as a bottle that is hermetically sealed.

Dyeing kit

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the iron-containing composition is sold as part of a kit together with a second composition comprising polyphenols.

Preferably, the polyphenol is selected from the group consisting of gallic acid, methyl gallate, ethyl gallate, propyl gallate or a mixture thereof.

Methyl gallate, ethyl gallate, and propyl gallate can be obtained from esterified gallic acid. Preferably, the gallic acid is extracted from a natural source, preferably from a hydrolyzable tannin. Preferably, the polyphenol does not contain any active oxidase and has been heat treated to destroy any enzyme activity.

Preferably, the polyphenol is selected from the group consisting of methyl gallate, ethyl gallate and propyl gallate, most preferably propyl gallate.

Preferably, the polyphenol-containing composition is an aqueous polyphenol solution. Preferably, the polyphenol composition comprises from 0.05% by weight to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.3% by weight to 3.0% by weight, based on the total polyphenol composition.

Preferably, the aqueous polyphenol solution has a pH of from 2 to 7, more preferably from 3 to 6, when measured using a calibrated pH meter.

In order to prevent the polyphenol from being oxidized by air, the composition is preferably stored in an airtight container, preferably a bottle sealed with an airtight lid.

Preferably, the aqueous polyphenol solution contains water as its main component. Auxiliary ingredients may be present, for example, to increase viscosity, aroma, and aid in dissolution of the polyphenol. Solubilizing ingredients include organic solvents and surfactants.

Product form

The compositions of the present invention are typically "washed off" compositions that are intended to be applied to the hair and then rinsed off.

Other optional ingredients

The compositions of the present invention may contain other ingredients for enhancing performance and/or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include flavors, dyes and colors, pH adjusters, pearlescer or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, and natural hair nutrients such as plants, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives, and amino acids.

Instructions

The composition of the present invention is used for hair dyeing. Preferably, the composition is applied to the hair followed by rinsing the hair with water.

Depending on the type of product, the time spent on the hair can vary, and the product designed for a single dyeing step typically stays on the hair for 5 to 30 minutes.

The composition used for progressive dyeing stays on the hair for 10 seconds. Up to 10 minutes.

Preferably, the method of dyeing comprises the steps of applying the following to the hair in any order: i) the iron-containing composition described above, ii) a second composition comprising a polyphenol.

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are applied to wet hair and therefore require the step of moisturizing the hair prior to application of the compositions of the present invention.

The method preferably comprises the step of rinsing the hair between the application of the iron-containing composition and the polyphenol composition. It is excellent if the hair is rinsed after applying the two compositions of the present invention.

Further conditioning and/or hair styling products can be applied as part of the dyeing process.

The amount of each composition applied to the hair is preferably from 5 g to 100 g.

Preferably, the French hardness of the water used to moisturize and rinse the hair is from 0 to 36 degrees, more preferably from 0 to 24 degrees, most preferably from 0 to 2 degrees.

Preferably, the water used to moisturize and rinse the hair contains less than 1 ppm of a chlorine-based bleaching agent such as chlorine dioxide or hypochlorite. Optimally, less than 50 ppb.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. The embodiments of the present invention are illustrated by numbers, and the comparative examples are illustrated by letters.

Preparation process

In order to form the composition of the present invention, the cerium oxide particles are dispersed in the cerium Oxyalkane oil (amino sulfoxide oil DC8500 / polydimethyl methoxy oxane 5cst). A metal salt and some water are added to the oil phase by stirring to form an emulsion. The ingredients are mixed by conventional means to make the remaining cream, which is then added to the cream.

Comparative examples were prepared by mixing the ingredients together in a conventional manner.

This process is carried out at room temperature.

The Example B phase was isolated after storage at room temperature for 24 hours. Example A and Example 1 remained stable after one week of storage at 45 °C.

Example C phase was isolated after storage at room temperature for 24 hours. Example 2 remained stable.

Claims (15)

A hair dye composition comprising an emulsion comprising: a) hydrophobically modified particles selected from the group consisting of cerium oxide, metal oxides, and mixtures thereof; b) an amine functionalized oxoxane; c) iron salts or complexes; and d) water. The composition of claim 1, further comprising a conditioning phase. The composition of claim 2, wherein the conditioning phase comprises a cationic surfactant. A composition according to claim 2 or 3, which comprises a fatty alcohol. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic particles comprise cerium oxide. The composition of claim 5, wherein the hydrophobically modified cerium oxide comprises Wherein R is a C ₄ to C ₁₈ alkyl group. The composition of claim 6, wherein the hydrophobically modified ceria comprises the following groups: The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophobically modified particles have a primary particle size of from 1 nm to 100 nm. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amine functionalized alkane comprises an amino diol copolymer. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the hydrophobically modified particles to the amine functionalized alkane is from 3:1 to 1:50. The composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsion further comprises at least one non-amino functionalized decane. A kit for dyeing hair comprising: (i) a first composition comprising a source of polyphenols or polyphenols, (ii) a second composition according to any one of the preceding claims. The kit of claim 12, wherein the polyphenol is selected from the group consisting of gallic acid, methyl gallate, ethyl gallate, propyl gallate or the like. a mixture. A method for dyeing hair comprising the step of applying the composition or kit of any of the preceding claims to the hair. A method of dyeing hair according to claim 14 of the patent application, comprising the steps of applying the following to the hair in any order: i) a first composition comprising a source of polyphenols or polyphenols, ii) a second composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11.