SU1572422A3 - Method of obtaining artificial fur formed by warp web and protruding from warp multiplicity of nap fibres - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the textile industry. The goal is to improve the quality of fur. A method of making artificial fur from an intermediate pile fabric, for example, double woven corduroy 4, having two warp 4a, 4b and a connecting yarn 6o, connecting the two warp fibers, involves the operation of destroying the integrity of the pile yarn 6o of the intermediate nap fabric 4 by sliding separation so as not to destroy at least a portion of the fibers forming the awn. 4 hp f-ly, 20 ill., 1 tab.

Description

For the formation of nap yarn of the fabric by separating the structures

4a and 4b of the basis of a double woven velvet fabric 4, it is necessary to divide the connecting pile yarn 6 into two sections held by the respective

Three types of yarn can be used for the inter-pile pile.

The first type is a yarn with a very small twist, which consists of

4a and 4b of the basis of a double woven velvet fabric 4, it is necessary to divide the connecting pile yarn 6 into two sections held by the respective

the underlying structures used, the operation of the sliding separation.

Studies have confirmed that by changing the structure of the connecting pile yarn 6o to the ideal one (Fig. 6) by applying tensile force to the connecting pile yarn, as a result of which the third group of fibrous material 5 is broken, the connecting pile more easily divides into two areas held by the respective structures 4a and 4b of the base.

It can be seen from FIG. 8 that the integrity of the connecting pile yarn 6 can be broken by the tension created by applying a pushing force P of the separating element 7 to a point which is almost the central point of the connecting pile yarn 6o. That is, the third group of fibrous material 5 is first broken by a force F directed towards the yarn axis, and the force F is created by transmitting a pushing force P approximately to the center point of the connecting pile yarn 6o, and then a sliding separation of the connecting pile 6o occurs,

As a result of the study, it was found that if a third group of fibrous material is cut by the cutting force of the edge of a sharp knife, and not simply by applying a pushing force to it (even when some other groups of fibrous material are cut), then using a knife is effective for separation of the connecting fiber yarn 6o.

If the length of the first fiber group 2a (hereinafter referred to as 1) is shorter than the distance 1b between the two base structures 4a, 4b, which is essentially identical to the length of the connecting pile yarn 6o, then no fiber of the first group 2a can be simultaneously held by two structures 4a , 4b of the substrate; On the other hand, since the length of the second group of fibrous material 2b (hereafter, 12) is shorter than the length lf, no fiber of the second group of fibers 2b is held by two structures (4a and 4b of the substrate at the same time).

However, since the lengths 1 ,,, 1g of the first and second groups of fibers 2a, 2b are less than the length of 1 ", then the fibers that

are not retained by the two structures 4a, 4b of the base, are removed from the pile fabric during the napping or brushing operations, i.e. after finishing operations or during a continuous gliding operation, as a waste fiber material. As mentioned, the length of the first group of 1+ fibers may be equal to or slightly greater than 10.

The fiber fabric thus obtained (Fig. 9) is formed by a plurality of tuft tufts, i.e.

a plurality of units of bundles of fibrous fibers 6a (b) protruding upward from the structures of the base, each fiber bundle assembly being formed of

The Q bundle of the first group of fibrous material 2a and the second group of fibrous material 2b so that the components of each bundle are mixed in its root section, but are divided over

5 root part.

The results of the experiments showed that the application of the action of the separating element 7 to the center point of the pile yarn is not mandatory. However, the greatest effect of gliding is achieved by applying this effect to the center point of the pile yarn. If the pushing force of the separating element is applied to the nap shaft with simultaneous vibration of the separating element, the sliding separation of the pile also proceeds more effectively,

Q Separation pile yarn (figure 4,

5) can be efficiently performed by applying a tension to the pile, directed along the axis of the yarn, with or without the simultaneous use of a separating element. The system of sliding separation of pile yarn in combination with its cutting, as explained above, is effective with slightly twisted yarn. In practice, nap

The yarn is first partially cut, with the tension applied to the yarn concentrating on the fibers making up the partially cut section, whereby the above-mentioned sliding separation is most effective.

When using a fibrous material with increased length and thickness, the sliding separation of the columns can be very smooth.

but also effective in reducing the likelihood of cutting the first group of fibrous material. This is confirmed by experimental tests.

A careful study of the pile yarn projecting upward from the base structure revealed that the conical end portion of each protective hair of the artificial fabric is not damaged by sliding the pile yarn even with a separating element provided with a sharp edge, since the end portion of the fiber material is conical provides sufficient flexibility of this area and it easily avoids the impact of the sharp cutting edge of the separating element during sliding partitions. Thus, since the nap yarn connecting the two structures of the base of the intermediate nap fleece or loop fibers is partially cut by a separating element provided with a sharp cutting edge, in the first step, it is also possible to cut the first and second fibrous materials. Therefore, if the above method is applied, it is necessary to adjust the cutting of the pile yarn so that the first group of fibrous material is cut as little as possible. Such adjustment is possible when using a separating element with a partially pointed cutting edge.

The violation of the integrity of the pile fibers of the connecting pile yarn of a double woven corduroy cloth is described in detail below (an example is first described using an intermediate pile cloth having a double woven velveteen structure).

In the diagram of the process of weaving a double fabric (Fig. 8), the positions S and SS show two shuttles and a reed R of the loom. After a double corduroy fabric has been obtained, the integrity of the connecting pile yarn 6o formed by the pile yarn 6 is destroyed by the application of a pushing force of the separating element 7 during the intermediate stop stage to the displacement of the connecting pile yarn. As shown on Lig. 8 and 9, separation element 7 is installed at the front end separation point.

a double velvet cloth 4 inside the two pile woven structures 4a to 4b for separating the connecting pile yarn into two parts 6a and 6b.

The separating element 7 (a typical embodiment), shown in Fig. 12, is provided with a knife part 8 with a working blade 8a and a pointed end 8b. The working blade 8a is not very sharp. Such a separating element 7 is capable of reciprocating movement along the yarn of double velvet fabric 4, placed inside a double velvet fabric. The double corduroy web 4 is moved in the direction of the element 7 in the process of removing the woven fabric made from the loom. The working blade 8a faces the alignment of the connecting yarn at the front end of the double velvet fabric 4. The pushing force of the element 7 is applied mainly to the pile pile yarn 6o line located at the front end of the double velvet fabric 4, thus creating , the tension in the connector 6o on the front edge of the double corduroy fabric 4. The shape and speed of movement of the separating element 7 are chosen so as to create sufficient tension to break the integrity of the joint In accordance with the aforementioned principle. Consequently, when the separating element 7 is introduced into the space in front of the front edge of the double velvet fabric 4, each connecting column 6o formed by the pile yarn 6 on the front edge of the double velveteen fabric 4; it is divided into two parts ba and 6b (Aig.8 and 9) .

When the yarn 6 has the structure shown in Fig. 6, the pushing force first destroys the fibrous material of the third group 5, which spirally encompasses the core of each column, into two groups 6a and 6b (Lig.8 and 9) with the group of fibers 6a firmly held the base web 4a, and the fiber group 6b — the base web 4b. Fibers not supported by the backing 4a or 4b are held by one of the fiber groups 6a or 6b in an easily separable state or removed within the limits of the working position of the separation element 7,

Experiments have shown that the greater the distance between the inner surfaces of the two webs 4a and 4b of the intermediate nap web 4, the greater the amount of waste of free fibers, i.e. those fibers that are not firmly held by the webs 4a, 4b. If this distance is somewhat less than the length of the first group of fiber material, forming a protective hair of artificial fur, the amount of waste is significantly reduced.

In the example described, the separating element 7 applies a pushing force to the outside of the double velvet fabric 4. However, experiments performed show that the same results can be achieved if the pushing force of the separating element is applied to the connecting pile 6 o from the inside of the double velvet fabric 4 ( Aig.11).

Studies have shown that if two pile fabrics with the structures of webs 4a and 4b are stretched separately, then additional tension is applied to the joint pile yarn 6o formed by the yarn 6 at the front edge of double velvet fabric 4 tension created by the action of the separating element 7), due to which there is a more effective violation of the integrity of the connecting pile yarn 6 °

If the fiber material of the third group, which spirally encloses the core of the pile yarn 6, is unstable and can be destroyed by the additional stress created by the stretching of the two webs 4a and 4b, you can not use the separating element. If the fiber material of the third group is soluble in a certain chemical agent, the pile cloth can be treated with this

chemical agent and also not to use the separating element 7, since stretching the two canvases of the base 4a and 4b will be enough to form two nap fabrics

Fiber material can be used, the configuration of which is similar to that of conventional yarn, if the length, thickness and other characteristics of the fiber material of the first group forming the spike of artificial fur are quite different from the length and thickness of the fiber material of the second group forming the undercoat of artificial fur.

The modified method of obtaining artificial fur involves the use of combined pushing and cutting forces. In this case, part of each connecting column is first cut, which connects the two base webs 4a and 4b of the intermediate pile fabric, which is a double corduroy fabric, after which the remaining portion the pushing force of the separating element 7 (as in the first embodiment). Experiments have shown that it is possible to effectively use the separation element 7, the shape of which is shown in Fig. 13, in which the sharp knife blade 8c is formed at the free end. When using such a separating element 7, a sharp knife blade 8c cuts a portion of the outer surface of each connecting rod, and the rest of the blade performs a sliding separation of the pile yarn under the influence of the pushing force.

On Fig shows another variant of the separating element 7, with which you can make artificial fur according to this invention. Such a separating element makes it possible to avoid cutting at least part of the first group of fiber material, cutting all the second group of fibrous material in the process of breaking the integrity of the pile yarn formed by the yarn 6. As shown in Fig. 14, this separating element has a sharp knife blade 8d.

Conventional artificial fur (Fig. 15 obtained by the proposed method using the proposed device, contains a canvas of bases 4a, 4b and a plurality of pile fiber knots protruding from this cloth. Each node of the pile fibers 2a and 2b has a visible beam of the hinge part, and a large its part is firmly fixed

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in the structure of the base. The pile fibers 2a, 2b of each knot in their upper part are separated from the root part and have different lengths ranging from almost zero to the maximum length of the fiber materials. In such an artificial fur, the pile fibers consist partly of short and fine fibers 2b (fibers of the second group), which are the undercoat of artificial fur, and partly of straight fibers 2a of relatively large diameter (fibers of the first group), which protrude from the undercoat furs and serve as an awn. The free ends of the awn are usually bevelled.

The preferred material for the fiber material of the first group 2a is fibers that are thicker and longer than the fibers of the second group of fiber material 2b, which have two beveled free ends (Fig. 17). The experiment showed that as the fiber material of the first group, you can use the modified fibers shown in Fig.20. Each fiber of the first group 2a fiber material has a special shape, characterized by bevelled free ends, which make it possible to avoid the cutting effect of the sharp knife blade of the separation element and the effect of the fiber material moving in the opposite direction during the sliding separation.

The preferred material for the fibers of the second group is, for example, staple fiber, swept away with the fibers of the first group in the process of making twisted yarn, or a multifilament yarn formed by a plurality of individual fine fibers. In the latter case, the individual fibers are cut by a separating element having a sharp knife edge, which provides a sliding separation, disrupting the integrity of the pile fibers of the pile fabric of the material.

Fibrous material of various cross sections, such as triangular, square, uneven, elliptical, etc., may be used.

In addition to the above conditions for the use of fiber material in the manufacture of artificial fur according to this invention

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It is important to carefully select the optimum ratio of the length and thickness of the first and second groups of fiber materials, as well as the ratio of their mixing in the yarn, from which the pile of the intermediate pile fabric is made. When using the intermediate pile fabric with two bases, connected by connecting columns, protruding from the respective webs. you, preferably the ratio of the length of the fiber material of the first group to the length of the fiber material of the second group in the range from 1.0 to 5.0. If this ratio is less than 1.0 or greater than 5.0, then it is extremely difficult to manufacture a good quality intermediate pile fabric. Regarding the degree of mixing of these two types of materials in pile nap, it is preferable that the ratio of the fibrous material of the first group to the fibrous material of the second group be in the range from 15 to 70% by weight.

Noticeable difference in the lengths of the fiber materials of both groups provides a beautiful appearance of the final product. According to the conducted research, the fiber length of the material of the second group should be within 1/2 - 1/3 of the length of the fibers of the first group.

If conventional twisted yarn is used to make pile yarn, then given the preferred use of a small twist to smoothly damage the pile fabric, it is desirable to use fiber having curls that contribute to stable formation of yarn as the fiber material of the second group.

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With regard to the ratio of the length of the pile yarn of the intermediate pile cloth and the length of the fibers of the first group, the length of the pile yarn is determined by the length of the fiber material of the first group (the length of the first should not be much less than the length of the last), i.e. The length of 1 ”pile yarn should be as short as possible of the length of the first fiber materials of the first group. In practice, the fiber length of the material of the first group is 10–75 mm (more preferable. 15–30 mm).

The preferred ratio of the average thickness of the fibers of the first and second groups is from 10 to 100. For example, the thickness of the fiber material of the second group is chosen within one and a few denier, and the thickness of the fiber material of the first group ™ is between several tens and one hundred denier.

In order to obtain artificial fur of the desired quality, it is necessary to carefully select the fibrous material with regard to the above-mentioned mixing ratio, based on the thickness of the fibrous materials, in order to satisfy the conditions determined by the following conditions:

15 D 80; (1)

50 D

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Where

50

D

,

; 5j (2)

R is the thickness of the thickest part of the first group of fiber material, denier; the degree of mixing of the fiber material of the first group in the same, in wt.%, which is determined by the following equation;

R

A + B

- x 100,

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where a is the weight of the fiber material

the first group, containing 35 per unit weight of yarn; B is the weight of the fiber material of the second group contained in the unit weight of the yarn. As mentioned above, the choice of material of the first group must satisfy the condition of equation (1). If the thickness of the thickest part of the fibrous material of the first group is less than 15 den., The elasticity of the protective hair of artificial fur will be so weak that the sensation of touching the fur will be bad, If the specified thickness is higher

25 different yarns: common types of twisted yarn, composite yarn, containing so-called hypopolymer fiber such as an island in the sea, in which the island component becomes an end product, yarn consisting of two dual composite yarns, various types of twisted For example, a yarn is usually twisted, consisting of a pair of twisted yarns, or of a conventional twisted yarn, spirally surrounded by a yarn, or of a pair of multi-strand yarns. The main technical idea of the present invention is to skim separation of at least fiber material of the first group to disrupt the integrity of the pile yarn of the intermediate pile cloth, therefore it is preferable that the yarn be modified and match the ideal structure shown in FIG. one. For example, if a yarn is used, the number of twists should be reduced to an age of 80 denier, the fur becomes too heavy a minimum. Therefore, in

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accurately perform in fur and feeling

from touching the fur will be bad.

On the other hand, if R is greater

- + 55, then the protective hair will be

sticking around and, although the appearance of faux fur will be good, the fur undercoat will become so stiff that the characteristics of the fur undulation and spine mix with the undercoat will be poor. Such faux fur is more rough to the touch than natural fur.

Artificial fibrous materials such as, for example, polyester, polyamide, acrylic, polyolefin, proteinaceous fibers, rayon and acetate, as well as natural fibers, such as wool, cotton, flax, silk, etc. can be selectively used as fibrous materials. .P.

Different yarns can be used to form the pile of the intermediate pile fabric: common types of twisted yarn, composite yarn containing so-called hypopolymer fiber like an island in the sea, in which the island component becomes an end product, a yarn consisting of two double composite yarns, various types of twisted yarn, for example, conventional twisted yarn, consisting of a pair of twisted yarns, or of ordinary twisted yarn, spirally surrounded by a yarn, or a pair of multi-strand yarns. The main technical idea of the present invention is to skim the separation of at least the first group fiber material to disrupt the integrity of the pile yarn of the intermediate pile cloth, therefore it is preferable that the yarn be modified and match the ideal structure shown in Fig. 1 as much as possible. For example, if a yarn is used, the number of twists should be reduced to the

By touch, the quality of the final product is unsatisfactory.

In order to ensure good quality faux fur, it is also necessary to comply with the condition of equation (2). The ratio defined by equations (l) and (2) is represented by the graph in Fig. 920. If R is less than 50D / 50 + + D, then protective hair will not be sufficient in this case, fiber material of greater length is preferable than that of ordinary twisted yarn.

As fibers of the second group, it is preferable to use fibers with curls that increase the strength of yarn. If the length of the fibers of the first and second groups is more than half the length of the 10 pile yarn,

which connects the two base webs of the intermediate pile fabric, which has a double velvet woven structure, the use of a separating element to break the integrity of this nap makes it possible to obtain artificial fur, the structure of which is shown in Fig. 16. Studies have shown that an effective yarn is used in which fibers of the first group are used as fiber material for the spine, fibers of the second group — as fiber material for the undercoat, and fibers of the third group — to give even enough strength when carrying out weaving process, if the fiber material of the third group can be easily removed from the yarn. Thus, for example, if fiber is taken from an ethanoplast resin as a fiber material of the third group, which is water-soluble, then such fiber can be easily removed using a known wetting process. The removal of fibers of the third group significantly weakens the structure of the yarn in the intermediate nap fabric, as a result of which the necessary condition is created / for the performance of the proposed method.

To ensure a given yarn structure, yarn with a conventional structure can be treated with an agent that can be easily removed from it, for example, with an ethanoplastic resin. After fixing the yarn structure with such an agent, the yarn is unwound, but it retains sufficient strength to weave and produce an intermediate nap fabric. The intermediate nap fabric is then chemically treated to remove the fixing agent. This significantly weakens the structure of the pile yarn, thereby creating conditions for disrupting the integrity of the pile yarn of the intermediate pile cloth.

Polyester material that is soluble in alkaline solutions can be used as the third group of fiber materials to be removed, if polyamide is used as a lint protective material; polyamide material, soluble in pseudo acids, if as the material of the first group

polyester taken; acrylic fiber soluble in solvents such as dimethylformamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sodium hydroxide, nitric acid; styrene fiber soluble in trichloride, benzene, xylene; polyester obtained by copolymerisation with sodium sulfoisophthalate and soluble in alkaline solutions, and the like.

It is possible to use a double yarn consisting of a twisted yarn formed only by the fiber material of the first group, twisted with a multi-fiber yarn consisting of a plurality of individual fibers and forming an undercoat of artificial fur. In this case, the twisting of the twisted yarn is almost completely eliminated when the two specified yarns are twisted. Since the individual strands of multifilament yarn become the undercoat of the final product, it is necessary to carefully select or calculate the thickness and length of the villi of the intermediate nap fabric when such double twisted yarn is used for the intermediate nap fabric shown in Fig.8 and 9. For example, using a dividing element with a sharp knife blade to trim the threads and slide apart the remaining fiber materials from the pile yarn, the working position of the dividing element shown 10, allows to obtain a undercoat artificial fur formed by short pile fibers of identical length (19).

Above, yarns of various materials have been described, used to form a pile in the intermediate pile fabric. However, among the various types of yarn, yarn with the structure shown in Fig. 6 is practical. In this strand, the first component is a mixed yarn formed by the first and second groups of fibrous material, and a multifilament yarn, which is the third group of fibrous material, spirally surrounds the mixed yarn. Under this condition, twisting of the mixed yarn is excluded.

According to the research performed, it is preferable to use multi-strand yarn having a thickness of from 30 to 150 denier. If yarn thickness

significant, the number of yarn twists per unit length decreases, and vice versa, the number of yarn twists per unit length increases with decreasing thickness of the multi-headed yarn. Various materials can be used for the intermediate nap fabric, for example, double velvet fabric, double pile knitted fabric.

To secure the pile fibers in the base fabric, it is preferable to process the intermediate pile cloth before disrupting the integrity of the pile yarn of the intermediate pile cloth.

Treatment of the intermediate nap fabric with a chemical agent facilitates the separation of the fiber material, as well as the violation of the integrity of the pile when sliding separation, does not lead to undesirable rupture of the first group of fibers. An auxiliary finishing treatment with a chemical agent, such as a lubricant, can also be used.

It is also necessary to take into account the structure of the base of the intermediate nap fabric, which affects the quality of the final product (artificial fur) 8 and its characteristics, such as touch feeling and aiding properties. For example, it is desirable to ensure a good fit of the material, it is desirable to use a thin base fabric or increase its elasticity and extensibility, which facilitates the tailoring of products from the material obtained. Different types of yarn are used to impart fabric of such properties, for example yarn, including fiber material, which is easily removed by additional chemical treatment; yarn containing so-called separable fiber material; a multi-thread yarn formed by a plurality of individual very thin threads; strand yarn, and appropriate additional finishing is usually carried out, for example making the fabric skin-like.

The final processing of the nap fabric, i.e. the final step of making the artificial fur, involves a nap performed to comb the pile fibers protruding from the pile backing web.

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fabrics, with simultaneous separation of the pile fibers of each knot, and combing to remove loose fibers that are not firmly held by the fabric of the pile fabric base. If a fibrous material is used, the length of which is approximately equal to the length of the pile yarn in the intermediate nap fabric, then this material is the second group of fibrous material. It is preferable to tear the fibrous material of the second group by applying tensile force arising from napping and / or combing to shorten the fibers of the second group protruding from the base fabric, therefore thin and fragile fibers are used as the fiber material of the second group.

Example. 14 types of mixed twisted yarns X 7-1 OS (cotton yarn counting system) were made, in which four types of polybutylene terephthalate staple fibers (PBT) were used, each of which had a different thickness (20; 30; 50 and 70 denier), but the same fiber length (37 mm) and a taper at both ends of the fibers. Cotton fiber was used as the undercoat with the degree of mixing indicated in the table. From velvet fabrics, 18 kinds of pile fabric are made using mixed twisted yarn as pile yarn and 15 S / 2 twisted yarn, consisting of 1.5 denier x 51 mm polyester staple fibers, as warp threads and weft in canvases of a basis of double velvet fabric. Then the intermediate nap webs were divided into upper and lower webs by applying a separating force to the intermediate nap webs (Fig. 8). In all examples, the length of the pile binder was 39 mm.

After coating the obtained nap fabric with a 15% solution of polyurethane in dimethylformamide, 18 types of nap fabric were treated, washed, dehydrated and dried,

Then, the entire pile of each pile fabric was combed from top to root to eliminate the pile twist, while the cotton fibers and PBT fibers, which had both ends of the pointed end and were not retained by the base fabric, were removed.

Received 18 types of artificial fur, the structure of which corresponded to that shown in Fig.9. The results of the evaluation of each fur are presented in the table.

Example 2. Two kinds of mixed twisted yarns were prepared, in which PBT staple fiber with a thickness of 30 and 50 denier, 37 mm long, was used, but without sharpened ends for the spine; cotton fiber is used as the undercoat.

When using PBT staple fiber with a thickness of 30 denier, the mixing ratio R was 30%. Look at the pr 10S. When using 50 denier PBT staple fibers, the mixing ratio R was 45% (yarn number 9S).

Using such a mixed yarn to form a pile thread of pile fabrics, two types of pile fabrics were obtained using weaving and working operations as in Example 1.

In the obtained pile fabrics, the fur of the fur effectively covered the surface of the pile fabrics, however, the absence of the pointed ends of the awnings made the fur a non-natural look and it was not very smooth to the touch. In addition, the lint characteristics were lower than those of the tissues of example 1, but in part of the waviness, because the roots (even those that had a significant fiber length) were not pointed and straight.

Example 3. Of the various types of PBT staple fibers with a thickness of 10 and 85 denier and a length of 37 mm, which had sharp points at both ends and were used as a protective hair and also of cotton fiber as undercoat, two kinds of mixed twisted yarn were made.

When using PBT of staple fiber with a thickness of 10 denier, the degree of mixing R was 45%, the thread number was 10S, and when using PBT of staple fiber with a thickness of 85 days, the degree of mixing R was 50%, the number of thread was 7So

Two types of pile fabric were made using the described yarn for pile, after which the integrity of each pile yarn of the intermediate pile cloths was broken. The resulting pile fabrics were finished according to the procedure described in Example 1.

A 10 denier PBT staple fiber proved ineffective as a protective hair similar to natural fur, as it was too thin and did not look like natural fur.

Q PBT Staple Fiber Thick

85 denier was too coarse and did not feel like natural fur to the touch. Consequently, the properties and quality of the nap fabrics obtained in this example turned out to be worse than those shown in example 1, where the nap fabrics are similar to natural fur.

Example 4. On a conventional ring spinning machine from viscose

0 multi-strand 210 denier yarn - 105f (as a undercoat) and PBT roving staple fibers of 18 denier x 35 mm, having a spike at both ends (as an awn)

5 made Vita yarn number 16S (330 denier) with the number of twists 540 per meter.

The specified multi-strand core is mixed with a viscous polygrate of 50 denier-24f. The mixture was turned in the direction of S with the number of twists 500 per meter using a ring spinning machine. The resulting prja had such

5 is a structure in which a viscous multiplier of 50 denier - 24f was wound around a yarn core, which had almost no twist.

Intermediate nap cloth with

A double woven velvet structure was made on a loom using yarn to form a connecting pile yarn, and a polyester twisted yarn 30/2 G was used to make two canvases of the base. The density of the yarns in each base fabric was 44 x 44 (weft bases) of threads per inch, while the pile density in the direction of the weft base was 20 x 20 pile fibers per inch, and in the intermediate nap fabric produced in this way The connection between the two canvases was

5 is 35 mm. The separating element is installed in the middle between the two canvases basis. The integrity of the connective pile yarn is broken without cutting the staple fibers

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spine, but with the separation of the warp and staple fibers of the undercoat, the Separating element is provided with a knife having the construction shown in Fig. 14, the blade beveling angle 15 and the blade length 115 mm,

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whereby the knife blade could cut only viscose fibers.

The sulfur fabric thus obtained was treated with a 15% solution of polyurethane in dimethylformamide, after which it was washed, dried, and dried. Then, the combing and removal of free fibers were carried out.

After drying and finishing, the nap fabric had a pile structure similar to that of natural fur, and had the appearance and quality of natural mink fur (Fig.19).

Sample 5, Sour cream yarn with a thread number of 8S and a number of twists of 452 per meter made on a conventional cotton spinning machine using 45% PBT of 50 denier staple fiber and 33 mm (without titanium dioxide), which then as the fiber material of the first group (for core) a and 55% of polyethylene terephthalate staple fiber () 1.5 denier and 22 mm as the fiber material of the second group (for undercoat).

Vita yarn was spun on 450 twists per meter using a special twisting machine and at the same time mixed with water-soluble polyvinyl acetate (PVA) fiber with a zero percentage over-feeding ratio.

Using the specified yarn as a material for the formation of a pile yarn and a twisted yarn 40 S / 2, which consists of connected staple fibers such as an island in a sea of 2 denier in thickness and 51 mm long (island / sea ratio was 55, / -45, where the ultrathin fiber bundle consisted of 11 strands with a thickness of 0.1 denier, which were obtained from a single bonded fiber such as an island in the sea after removing the marine component), made a double corduroy fabric on the loom, containing two warp sheets. The resulting double velvet fabric had the following structure: the length of each connecting column is a thief

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sa - 40 mm; pile density (in the direction of the warp threads) - 30 villi per inch; thickness of the pile (in the direction of the weft threads) - 40 units of villus per inch; the density of the warp threads of each base fabric is 60 ends per inch; weft threads of each weave of the base - 60 ends per inch; The fastening structure of the pile thread is a strong fastening system. The separation of the upper and lower nap sheets was carried out using the separating element shown in FIG. 12, which could move reciprocating along the central part of the connecting nap yarn, while during its movement only polyvinyl acetate fibers were cut, and polybutylene terephthalate staple fibers were cut and PET was slid without splitting or tearing. Angle 9 in this separating element

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5 tavl l 15 °, and the length of the bevel is 115 mm, therefore the blade with such a bevel did not break the fibers, but only applied pressure to them.

Thus, two nap fabric was obtained.

The fabric of the nap fabric was treated with a polyurethane solution, after which water-soluble (PVA) polyvinyl acetate fibers were removed.

After drying, the nap fabrics were combed.

Fabricated pile fabrics had a corresponding fiber length distribution and a distinct two-layer structure of thick PBT staple fibers with a larger average length and thin PET of staple fibers with a smaller average length. Thanks to this, I got a wonderful artificial fur, similar to natural. In addition, the removal of the PVA fibers gave a soft base, which increased further after removal.

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nor the marine component of the base fabric.

II Series 6, A mixed yarn of yarn, having a number of 10S and a number of twists of 12 per meter, was made using a conventional cotton fiber spinning system using 70% PBT of 30 denier staple fiber and a length of 35 mm, which was pointed cotton fiber as an accessory at both ends and 30 7. as an additional component to improve the spinning effect (fiber material of the third group).

After the treatment with a yarn mallow, it was twisted with a 300 denier PET fiber - 144, used as an undercoat (with the number of twists 472 per meter), on a twisting machine.

A double velvet fabric was produced, in which the above-mentioned twisted yarn was used as the pile material, and the 30 / 2S yarn consisting of PET 2-dented staple fiber and 51 mm long fiber was used as the material for the two canvases. . The structure of the fabric obtained was as follows; the length of the connecting columns of the pile is 36 mm; pile density (in the direction of warp threads) - 22 villus per inch; pile density (in the direction of the weft threads) - 18 villi per inch; the density of the base in each canvas base - 44 end per inch; duck density in each canvas basis - 36 ends per inch; The pile fastening structure is a strong fastening system, for example, HP, one single thread through one weft thread in the web and 12 single non-woven threads.

The separation of the upper and lower nap fabrics was performed with a separating element with a blade moving reciprocating along the middle part of the connecting nap yarn.

The separating element had a structure similar to that shown in Fig. 13, in which the blade bevel 9 was 5 ° and the bevel length was 165 mm, the sharp cutting edge had a length of 115 mm from the tip of the blade and could cut PET fibers and the remaining 50 mm the length was a dull edge.

The blade violated the integrity of the pile binder so that the TGETf staple fiber and some cotton fibers were cut, and the polybutyleneteralteal staple fibers were subjected to sliding separation without cutting.

After producing two nap fabrics, they were treated by applying a polyurethane emulsion onto the canvas.

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the basics, and after washing and prosugaki were combed to loosen the pile filaments. The resulting pile fabric had a pile structure, in which the length of most pile fibers that formed the undercoat was about the same and was 8 mm, and the length of pile fibers forming an awn varied from the maximum - 35 mm to the minimum - zero.

The resulting nap fabric resembled a natural mink in appearance and properties, since the pile had a two-layer structure consisting of different protective hair and undercoat, soft and extremely high other characteristics;

The treatment of the nap fabric with sulfuric acid to remove cotton fibers from the pile yarn further improved the look of the artificial fur and made it more similar to the natural mink fur (feeling when touched).

Example 7. Sour cream yarn with a 10S number, with a twist number of 473 per meter, consisting of 50% PET staple fiber with a thickness of 50 denier and a length of 31 mm with points at both ends of the fibers was obtained on a conventional spinning equipment for cotton fiber. used as a spine, 30% PET of staple fiber 4 denier thick and 20 mm long, used as undercoat, and 20% acrylic staple fiber 1.5 denier thick and 38 mm long, soluble in a weak alkaline solution and used as fiber material t etey group to improve spinning properties.

The mixed staple yarn was twisted with 50 Denier 18F water soluble PVA fiber yarn, then the twisted yarn was spun on a ring twisting machine with a twist number of 470 per meter, due to which yarn was obtained in which the water-soluble PVA fiber was spirally wound around almost unwound yi

A double velvet fabric is woven using the yarn obtained to form a connecting pile yarn as a material for

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The above yarn was used as a pile, and as a material for two warped fabrics - a yarn 30 / 2S, consisting of connected staple fibers 2 denier thick and 51 mm long, like an island in the sea, described in Example 5. The structure of the resulting double velveteen tissue was as follows: the length of the connecting columns of the pile - 32 mm; the density of the warp threads of each canvas basis - 44 end per inch; the thickness of the weft threads of each canvas basis - 36 ends per inch; pile yarn density (in the direction of the base) - 22 ends per inch; The lash attachment structure is the same as in Example 6; The density of the pile threads (in the direction of the weft) is 18 ends per inch.

Separation of the upper and lower tuber tissues was carried out using a separating element having a blade that moved reciprocally. Transitionally along the middle part of Each of the connecting columns of the pile, as shown in Fig.8 and 9. The configuration of the blade corresponded to that shown in Fig. And, the zero angle of the blade bevel was 5 °, the length of the beveled h; the parts — 165 mm, including 20 mm from the tip — the knife edge, following the sharp part 95 mm of length — the edge was slightly dull, and the rest 10

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n) 50 mm long - edge, capable only of applying force to the connecting columns of the pile.

Dividing element destroyed the integrity of the connecting bars

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in natural fur. The length of the pile fiber of the undercoat varied from maximum - 18 mm to a minimum - to about zero, and the length of the fiber from the maximum - 28 mm to a minimum (approximately zero).

The resulting nap fabric had the appearance and properties of natural mink fur, a pronounced two-layer structure of the awn and undercoat. In addition, the removal of the marine component from the base web gave the latter softness.

The nap fabric was made of artificial fur, very similar to the natural one, judging by the sensation of touch and appearance.

In the example, the Mixed yarn number 8S with the number of twists 452 per meter was made using a conventional cotton fiber spinning system using 40% PVT of 30 denier and 35% PET staple fibers with a thickness of 1.5 denier and 20 mm long. Then, the yarn was spun on 450 twists per meter on a special twisting machine and at the same time duplicated with water-soluble PVA fiber at a degree of excessive feed of 25%. The yarn was obtained with a water-soluble PVA fiber wound around a bundle of core fibers from yarn 8S with almost zero twist.

Made a double velvet fabric, as in example 5 (using 20

25

thirty

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the pile is cut so that only water is cut by this yarn to form

We twist the PVA fiber and undergo a gliding separation of at least a certain part of the PBT of staple fibers and a large amount of PET staple fibers without cutting. When separating the upper and lower nap fabrics, two nap fabrics were obtained. The basics of nap cloths are subjected to polyurethane emulsion processing. The PVA fibers were removed by treatment with hot water, and the acrylic fibers were completely removed with a weak alkaline emulsion.

Then the nap fabrics were washed and dried, followed by combing to release the nap.

The resulting pile fabric had a pile structure, in which the length of the pile fibers was distributed as

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Pile and Yarn from Example 5 - for two warped linens). The structure of the double velvet fabric obtained was as follows: the length of the connecting columns of the pile is 40 mm; density of pile fibers (in the direction of the threads. fundamentals) - 30) villi per inch; pile fiber density (in the direction of weft threads) - 40 villus per inch; the density of the warp threads of each canvas basis - 60 ends per inch; the weft threads of each weft of the base is 60 ends per inch; Pile fastening - strong fastening system

The resulting double velvet fabric was treated to remove the water soluble PVA fiber. The removal of the PVA fibers made it possible to easily separate the upper and lower fibers by stealing this yarn to form

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Pile and Yarn from Example 5 - for two warped linens). The structure of the double velvet fabric obtained was as follows: the length of the connecting columns of the pile is 40 mm; density of pile fibers (in the direction of the threads. fundamentals) - 30) villi per inch; pile fiber density (in the direction of weft threads) - 40 villus per inch; the density of the warp threads of each canvas basis - 60 ends per inch; the weft threads of each weft of the base is 60 ends per inch; Pile fastening - strong fastening system

The resulting double velvet fabric was treated to remove the water soluble PVA fiber. The removal of the PVA fibers made it possible to easily separate the upper and lower nap fabrics by applying a separating force to these fabrics without cutting the connecting pillars of the pile.

The fabricated pile fabric had a pile structure with a corresponding distribution of fiber lengths, a clearly distinguishable two-layer spine structure and an undercoat. The removal of the marine component from the yarn of the base web, as mentioned in Example 5, made the foundation smooth.

Example9. A mixed yarn having a 10S number, with a number of twists 473 per meter, is made using 55% cotton fiber used as an undercoat and 45% PNT staple fiber, which was pointed at both ends, as a protective hair.

Then the yarn was mixed with a water-soluble IVA fiber yarn of 50 denier - 18f. Both yarns were simultaneously twisted on a special twisting machine with the number of twists 470 per meter.

Then, yarn Fz was made, consisting of water-soluble PVA fibers wound around a bundle of 10S core yarn with almost zero twist, consisting of the first and second groups of fiber material, as shown in Fig. 6.,

As a material for two canvases of the base, polyester fiber yarn 30 / 2B is used. From two types of yarn Ff and РЈ, two types of pile fabric were made as materials for connecting pile columns on a double velvet fabric loom. The resulting double velvet fabric possessed the following characteristics: the thickness of the warp and weft threads of each warp (warp base) - 44 x 36 ends per inch; pile density (in the direction of warp and weft threads) - 22 x 18 ends per inch; the length of the bollards is 32 mm.

The basis of the obtained gray nap fabric was subjected to treatment with 15% polyurethane emulsion in dimethylformamide, after which it was washed, dried and dried.

Removal of PVA fibers from fabric made using Yarn Rl was carried out with hot water at 80 ° C.

The pile fabrics were combed several times to open the pile and release loose fibers.

The efficiency of weaving using yarn F ,, turned out to be low. In the process of making fabric on a loom, the worker opens

the machine's shed was not entirely smooth due to the long running times that protruded from the pile bristles. In addition, there was a significant rupture of the pile and section 5 of the spine.

When using F2 yarn, the weaving efficiency was excellent, and the quality of the fabric turned out to be excellent, since the difficulties encountered in making yarn fabric F, were significantly reduced. When combing the pile from the F2 yarn, the pile opening was complete, and the loose fibers were removed after five combing (when using yarn F as the pile, satisfactory opening did not occur even after 12-fold combing).

0 After drying and finishing, the nap fabric in which F2 yarn was applied had the appearance and feel of touching much closer to natural mink fur than the pile fabric of yarn F.

Example 10. A mixed vin yarn number 10S, with the number of twists 473 per meter, is made on ordinary spinning equipment for treatment

cotton fiber work with the use of 45% PBT of staple fiber (without curling) 40 denier thick and 31 mm long, which had a taper at both ends / fibers and used as

55% denier and 38 mm long PET used as undercoat. Then the yarn was mixed with a water-soluble PVA fiber yarn of 50 denier - 18f. Both types of yarn are simultaneously twisted with the number of twists 470 per meter. The yarn obtained had a water-soluble PVA fiber wound around the core of a 10 S fiber bundle with almost zero twist.

Made of double velvet fabric, in which is specified yarn isJI

It was used as a material for connecting columns of the pile, and a yarn of 30 / 2B was used as the material for the base fabric, consisting of connected staple fibers such as an island in the sea, as in Example 5.

The length of the connecting columns of the pile is equal to 32 mm, the other characteristics of the structure of the fabric corresponded to those shown in Example 7

The separation of the upper and lower nap fabrics was carried out using a separating element shown in FIG. 13, which moved reciprocally along the connecting columns of the pile, as in Example 6.

With the displacement of the separating element, a sliding separation of each connecting pile of the pile occurred, while water-soluble PVA fibers were cut, as well as almost all PET staple fibers, both ends of which were fixed simultaneously in the upper and lower base webs. Due to this, it was possible to separate the top pile fabric from the bottom and to obtain two panels of pile fabric.

In the thus obtained fleecy fabric, the maximum length of the pile was about 28 mm, and the minimum was zero. The pile fibers of the undercoat had a pile length distribution shown in FIG. 20, and the length of the pile of the same length was almost 16 mm, which is identical to the size of the cutting knife.

The fleecy fabric had a two-layer structure formed from the spine and the undercoat. The lengths of the pile fibers that form the protective hair and the undercoat are almost identical to natural fur, such as mink. However, since unwanted long hairs were partially observed in the pile fabric, the thin pile fabric was heavily combed to remove them, the appearance of the pile fabric significantly improved.

After chemical treatment of the fabric in order to remove the marine component from the fiber of the material, the flexibility of the pile fabric was greatly improved, so that it felt like 10

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- Go to natural fur, such as mink.

The separation element blade provided a gliding separation of almost all IIBT staple fibers that had sharpened ends at both ends, without cutting them, while most PET 1.5-denier staple fibers were cut due to their small thickness, despite the fact that one of the ends of such fibers could be free.

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Example 11. A mixed yarn, having a 16S / 2 number, with tin scraps of 560/443 per meter (initial twist / final twist), was made on conventional spinning equipment for processing cotton fiber using 70% PVT of staple fiber 30 denier and a length of 35 mm and 30% of water-soluble PVA staple fiber with a thickness of I, 0 denier and a length of 35 mm. A double velvet fabric was produced, in which the specified staple yarn was used as a pile material, and the material for two canvases of the base was yarn 40 S / 2, consisting of connected island-type staple fibers in a sea of 2 denier and 51 mm long, the connected staple fibers consisted of PET fiber, taken as an island component, and polystyrene, taken as a sea component, with an island / sea ratio of 55/45. After removing the sea component, a bunch of ultrafine fibers with held 11 fibers with a thickness of 0.1 denier each. The structure of the resulting double velvet fabric was as follows: the length of the connecting columns of the pile is 40 mm; pile density (in the direction of the warp threads) - 40 villi per inch; pile density (in the direction of weft threads) - 40 villi per inch; the density of the warp threads of each canvas basis - 80 ends per inch; the thickness of the weft threads of each canvas basis - 60 ends per inch; The fastening structure of the pile fibers is a strong fastening system.

The double corduroy fabric was then heat treated to remove the PVA staple fibers, thereby loosening the twist of the fibers forming the pile.

This weakening allowed the easy to split the double velvet fabric into two pile fabrics by applying a separating force to the base fabrics for skimming PBT of the staple fibers without cutting them. The resulting pile fabric had a structure, the length of the pile fibers in which varied depending on the corresponding distribution preferred for artificial fur (Fig. 15).

Claims (5)

1. A method of producing artificial fur formed by a base web and a plurality of pile fibers protruding from the base, comprising the step of making a pile using a pile yarn to create a plurality of villi, the operation of destroying the integrity of said villi formed in the pile web, the pile filament being formed fibrous materials, including the first group of fibrous material used to form the spine, and the second group, the fibrous material to form 13 th) 22 (according to the invention) 30 (- -) 60 (- -) 15 (base) 24 (according to the invention) 30 (- -) 60 (- -) 75 (basic) 23 (basic) 32 (according to the invention) 45 (-1 -1 60 () - 0 five 0 five 0 No artificial fur undercoat, characterized in that, in order to improve the quality of the fur, the operation of destroying the integrity of the pile is carried out by pulling the fibers in such a way that at least part of the fibers forming the spine is not destroyed. 2. Method of claim 1, characterized in that the operation of destroying the integrity of the villi is carried out by providing glide separation of the fibrous material. 3. Method according to claims, I and 2, which is based on the fact that the operation of destroying the integrity of the villi is carried out by applying tension along the axis of the pile thread, 4. Method according to paragraphs. 1 and 2, which is based on the fact that the operation of destroying the integrity of the villi is carried out by applying an effort to the pile thread in the direction perpendicular to its axis. 5. Method of method 1, characterized in that after or simultaneously with the operation of destroying the integrity of the villi, napping and / or combing of the nap web is carried out. 35 1572422 Note: x quality; D - normal quality; o - good quality; oo - great quality. 9i 36 Table continuation F T 2 FIG. one / four 9h FIG. Z x 9g || s gh CN1 I- w ll 4a (4 $ z b phage. 16 4a {4b) FIG. 15 to / 2 FIG. 17 4a (4b) 90 80 70 60 50 AO 30 20 10 Fi. 18 FIG. nineteen