SE409945B - PROCEDURE FOR PERMANENT PROCESSING OF HUMAN HAIR - Google Patents

Description

.....-.... ..- of _. ... n -... m-n ._-. an ... ~ ... Ls- -. .. »..........., .A .... \ .. vm ... u-sasnu; v ..- un ..-. . 10 15 20 25 30 35 H0 '7317080-5 first pre-moisten the unrolled hair with a proportion of the permanent liquid and then roll it up on perming rollers.

After the curling process, which takes about 10-20 minutes, is completed, the curled hair is moistened with the remaining part of the perming liquid. Leave on for about 5-20 minutes, then rinse with water well from the hair to remove the wavy agent and let the usual oxidative fixation take place.

In the case of hair curling, the thickened preparation, for example a cream, is applied to the hair and distributed evenly. During an exposure time of about 10-20 minutes, comb through several times and then rinse the hair well with water. Then you fix in a known way. The above hair conditioners based on mercaptocarboxylic acid salts are only active in the alkaline pH range and can be set to pH values between 7 and 9.6. In this range, at lower pH values, their keratin softening and consequently shaping effect is relatively weak, while an increased effect at higher pH values does lead to a stronger shaping, but is accompanied by an increasing stress on the hair and scalp. As the strength of the shaping also depends on the action time of the shaping agent, in the case of a permanent treatment, from time to time by winding up a hair test, it must be tested whether the desired ripple strength has been achieved.

Nevertheless, in the case of such permanent treatments and ripples, it occurs constantly and constantly that the required exposure time is exceeded. This leads in the first case to a curling of the hair and also in both processing methods to a more or less strong damage to the hair and the scalp.

Permanent preparations have also been carried out with acidic agents which, as design-active substances, contained hydrophilic esters of mercaptocarboxylic acids. These are compounds such as monothioglycolic acid glycol ester or glycerol ester, in which the water solubility is increased by the presence of hydrophilic groups in the molecule. However, as these hydrophilic esters in aqueous medium can be gradually saponified and therefore cannot be kept decomposed over a long period of time, the pure compound must be added as such and only shortly before the permanent treatment is combined with an acidic aqueous liquid. The actual perming process is then carried out in the same manner as with the weighing agents described above on the basis of mercaptocarbonic acid salts. The result, however, is 1 only a relatively weak permanence of the hair. 10 15 20 25 30 55 40 '7317080-5 3 The disadvantages of the above-elucidated processing methods are essentially due to the fact that the activity of the styling agent hardly changes and consequently the effect during the total exposure time on the hair remains almost constant. Only with the use of slightly volatile substances, such as ammonia, for alkalizing the design agent can a slight reduction in effect due to evaporation occur. However, this is not enough to eliminate the disadvantages initially described.

It has now been found that these disadvantages can be widely avoided if the treatment of the hair is carried out according to the method of the present invention. In the case of a permanence, the otherwise usual control of the curling strength of the hair can be dispensed with, as the danger of a curling of the hair does not exist. In addition, the use of the method allows, both for permanent and also for permanent curling, a special gentleness towards the hair and the scalp. The permanent processing of human hair according to the present method takes place in the manner of pre-treating the hair, possibly with the addition of urease and / or or an ester cleaving enzyme, first with 1/3 to 1/2 part by weight of a neutral or alkaline shaping agent, containing a water-soluble salt of thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid in an acid-calculated concentration of from about 5 to 10% by weight, in about 5 to 20 minutes, then finishing with the remaining part by weight of this agent, to which a water-soluble thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid ester of glycol, glycerol or methoxyethanol is added in an amount of from about 2 to 5 g of water-soluble ester per H0 g of residual styling agent, for about 5 to 20 minutes and after rinsing the agent from the hair fixes in the usual way.

During the perming, the hair is first soaked with 1/5 to 1/2 part by weight of the previously characteristic styling agent, preferably in the form of a solution, and then rolled up on perming rolls. Then, to the remaining portion of this solution, the pure water-soluble thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid ester of glycol, glycerol or methoxyethanol is added in an amount of from 2 to 5 g of water-soluble ester per H0 g of residual perming solution, and the mixture is applied to it. curled hair. After an exposure time of about 5-20 minutes, the hair is rinsed well with water and then oxidatively fixed in the usual way with a known fixing agent, for example with a hydrogen peroxide solution. The hair curling is carried out according to the present method in such a way that 1/3 to 1/2% by weight of the above-described styling agent described above is evenly distributed on the hair, especially in the form of a cream. or an oil, and let it work for about 5-10 minutes. Then the remaining portion of this agent is mixed with the pure water-soluble thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid ester of glycol, glycerol or methoxyethanol in an amount of from 2 to 5 g of water-soluble ester per HO g of residual styling agent and applied this mixture to the hair. Within an exposure time of about 10-20 minutes, comb the hair several times to support the curling effect and then rinse well with water. Then the hair is fixed in the usual way. In the hair treatment according to the present method, the second treatment step can advantageously be shortened by external heat supply, for example by means of a heat hood.

The soft alkaline agent in the first treatment step initiates the softening of the hair keratin and the desired shaping of the hair is facilitated. After the application of the shaping mixture in the second treatment step on the hair, a strong increase in the keratin softening effect occurs, which can apparently be traced back to the fact that nowadays the hydrophobic areas of the hair keratin are also reached. After a short time, however, the effect decreases rapidly on its own within the course of the treatment period.

The strong increase in the keratin emollient and thus shaping effect by the finishing agent may be explained by the fact that the effect of the mercaptocarbonic acid salts is considerably increased due to the addition of the hydrophilic ester which is strongly designed in the alkaline p-region. In the alkaline mixture, however, an increasing saponification of this ester now takes place, whereby the liberated mercaptocarboxylic acid continuously neutralizes free alkali through salt formation. The decrease in the alkalinity and thus in the pH value of the agent is therefore crucial, so that despite increasing concentration of mercaptocarboxylic acid, the shaping effect of the mixture is rapidly deteriorated with increasing ester saponificationQ From Figure 1 of the drawing it can be seen by saponification. the cleavage of the monothioglycolic acid-glycerol ester depending on the time. Three aqueous control solutions, each containing 11 g of the hydrophilic ester / 100 g of solution, were set at room temperature on each occasion with a 5% aqueous ammonia solution at pH 7.0, 7.5. and 8.0 and they were then held -vv- fi _..-._......-..-......., ... 10 15 25 50 55 H0 7317080-5 constant by continuous addition of a 5% aqueous ammonia solution at these pH values at each time. The ammonia consumed during the continuous addition is a measure of the thioglycolic acid released by saponification of the hydrophilic ester.

In Figure 2, the pH course during a permanent treatment according to example 1 in the application is illustrated. First, the pH of the permanent solution rises slightly due to the evolution of CO 2 (from 8.2 to 8.5). After 15 minutes (completion of the winding process), the rapid pH drop of the post-humidification liquid due to the addition of the hydrophilic ester then takes place. The method according to the present application consequently makes it possible to give the hair a strong and lasting shape, which is especially important for hair which is difficult to shape. Despite this strong styling effect, however, due to the automatic decrease in effect, both the hair and the scalp are spared in an excellent way. In addition, the frequent crimping of the hair during ordinary perming treatments can be avoided.

For carrying out the process, it is particularly suitable to use as proportions of the processing agent on the basis of mercaptocarbonic acid salts at each occasion half for the first and half for the second stage of the treatment. In general, the proportions of this agent for pre- and post-treatment may be l / 3-l / 2: 2 / 3-1 / 2.

Such as water-soluble salts of thioglycolic acid resp. thiolactic acid is particularly concerned with those which, for example, contain ammonium, sodium or potassium ions as cation. It is particularly advantageous to use the ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid, more specifically in a starting concentration of from about 5-10% by weight (calculated as acid).

In addition to these salts of the thioglycolic acid resp. the thiolactic acid, the shaping agents may, of course, contain the essential cosmetic additives, such as wetting agents, emulsifying agents, penetrants, thickening agents, perfume oils and others.

The hydrophilic esters of the mercaptocarboxylic acids find use in the present process as such in pure form, adding the remaining proportion of the shaping agent. The amount of hydrophilic ester added in the second process step to the remaining proportion of the shaping agent constitutes on average 2-5 g of hydrophilic ester / H0 g of residual shaping agent.

According to the present application, the combination of the enzyme urease with urea known for hair processing can also be used to thereby gradually increase the pH value and at the same time also the action of the shaping agent, which contains the mercaptocarbonic acid salts. Thus, according to the present process, one can add, for example, to half of a neutral urea-containing shaping agent before its use urease and after the action of the agent on the hair thereafter with the remaining half of this agent, to which before that one of the first-mentioned hydrophilic mercaptocarboxylic acid -esters added, finish the hair.

Furthermore, according to the present application, ester cleaving enzymes, such as pancreatin, can also be used to accelerate the digestion of the hydrophilic ester. According to the present process, such enzymes can already be contained in the shaping agent used for the pretreatment or can be added separately to the ester-containing finishing agent before its use. The following examples will further illustrate the present procedure without limiting it thereto. 'Examples. Human hair is pre-moistened with half (H0 g) of a permanent solution with the composition 9, U g aqueous ammonium thioglycolate solution (50%) 4.2 g ammonium bicarbonate I 0.5 g ammonium carbonate Ä 3.0 g urea 0 , Perfume oil 1 0.4 g oleic acid-pentaerythritol polyglycol ether 62.1 g water 80.0 g and pH = 8.2, and rolled up on perming rolls. To the remaining half of this solution is then added 0.0 g of monothioglycolic acid-glycerol ester and the wetted hair is thus moisturized. After an exposure time of 10-15 minutes, the hair is rinsed with water and fixed as usual with a known fixing agent, for example hydrogen peroxide solution. Humidify human hair with half (30 g) of a permanent solution with the composition I 12.0 g aqueous ammonium thiolactate solution (50%) 2.3 g ammonium bicarbonate 0.7 g ammonium carbonate 10 15 20 25 30 35 H0 7? Z2? Oso-5 0.2 g of perfume oil 0.3 g of polyethylene glycol sorbitan oleic acid ester, water 60.0 g at pH 8.8 and then roll up on perming rolls. Then 1.5 g of monothioglycolic acid-glycol ester are added to the remaining half of this solution and the curled hair is moistened with this mixture. After letting it work for about 10 minutes, rinse the hair with water and fix it oxidatively in a known manner. With half (40 g) of a permanent solution, consisting of 19.0 g of aqueous ammonium thiolactate solution (50%), 0.8 g of ammonium carbonate 2.0 g of 0.5 g of perfume oil 0.3 g of polyethylene glycol sorbitan oleic acid ester 54, H g water 80.0 g _ and pH = 9.0 the human hair is moistened and then rolled up on perming rolls. Then add 5 g of thiolactic acid methoxyethyl ester to the remaining half of this solution and moisten the hair with it. After an exposure time of 8-15 minutes, rinse the ha-formamide with water and fix in the usual way.

U. Human hair is pre-moistened with half (60 g) of a permanence solution with the composition 20.0 g aqueous ammonium thioglycolate solution (50%) 5, H g ammonium bicarbonate 0.7 g perfume oil 0.6 g octylphenol - 95.3 g water 120.0 g and pH = 7.6 and rolled up on perming rolls. To the remaining half of this solution is then added 7.5 g of monothioglycolic acid-glycerol ester and 2.25 g of pancreatin, thereby moisturizing the hair. After an exposure time of about 20 minutes, the pH value has dropped to 7.0 (without pancreatin, this time would only be pH = 7.3). Then rinse well with water and fix the hair in a known way.

With the same result, pancreatin can also be given to the moisturizing fluid. Humidify human hair with half (NO g) of a permanent mole of ethylene oxidation solution consisting of 15.6 g of aqueous ammonium thioglycolate solution (50%) 2.8 g urea 0.2 g perfume oil - 0.3 g octylphenol [~ 20 mol ethylene oxide 1.0 g aqueous solution of fatty acid ~ egg white condensate (35%) (Trade name "Lamepon S" from Chemische Fabrik Grünau-Illertissen). 60.1 g of water 80.0 g - and pH = 7, to which before the treatment 1.5 g of a mixture of urease and pancreatin lzl was added, and rolled up on perming rolls. In the time leading up to the end of the winding process, the urease + urea + solution now contained in the permanent solution becomes increasingly alkalized due to the formation of ammonium carbonate. Then add 3 g of monothioglycolic acid glycerol ester to the remaining half of the original solution and moisten the hair with it. After an exposure time of about 20 minutes, the hair is rinsed with water and fixed as usual. To curl human hair, apply half (50 g) of a cream with the composition 5, H g cetyl alcohol 1.8 g paraffin oil 3.9 g oleyl alcohol - 20 mol ethylene oxide 1.5 g colloidal silicic acid In 9.5 g aqueous ammonium thioglycolate solution (50%) 5.0 g ammonium carbonate 0.5 g perfume oil 72.0 g water 100g, and pH = 9.0, on the hair, and distribute evenly. After an effect time of about 10 minutes, 2 g of monothioglycolic acid-glycerol ester are added to the remaining half of the cream, this mixture is applied to the hair and mixed with the cream already present. After an exposure time of about 5-15 minutes, during which the hair is combed through several times, it is rinsed with water and fixed in a known manner. As fixing agent, for example, an acidic 2% aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution can be used for the examples given.

All the percentages given above are weight percentages.

Claims (2)

A process for the permanent treatment of human hair, characterized in that, possibly with the addition of urease and / or an ester cleaving enzyme, the hair is first pretreated with 1/3 to 1/2 part by weight of a neutral or alkaline shaping agent containing a water-soluble salt of thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid in an acid calculated concentration from about 5 to 10% by weight, for about 5 to 20 minutes, then finishing with the remaining weight of this agent, to which a water-soluble thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid ester of glycol, glycerol or methoxyethanol added in an amount of from about 2 to 5 g of water-soluble ester per HO g of residual shaping agent, for about 5 to 20 minutes time and after rinsing the agent from the hair fixes in the usual way. Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that, optionally with the addition of urease and / or an ester-cleaving enzyme, the hair is first soaked with 1/2% by weight of a neutral or alkaline permanent solution containing a water-soluble salt of thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid in a concentration calculated as acid from about 5 to 10% by weight, and rolls on permanent rolls, this pretreatment lasting for about 5 to 20 minutes, then finishing with the remaining half of this solution, to which a water-soluble thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid ester of glycol, glycerol or methoxyethanol added in an amount of from about 2 to 5 g of water-soluble ester per H0 g of residual solution, for about 5 to 20 minutes and after rinsing the solution from the hair fixes in the usual manner. Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that, optionally with the addition of urease and / or an ester-cleaving enzyme, the hair is first pretreated with 1/2 part by weight of a neutral or alkaline curling cream containing a water-soluble salt of thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid in a concentration calculated as acid from about 5 to 10% by weight, for about 5 to 10 minutes, then leaves the remaining half of this cream, to which a water-soluble thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid ester of glycol, glycerol or methoxyethanol added in an amount from about 2 to 5 g of water-soluble ester per H0 g of remaining cream, apply to the hair for about 10 to 20 minutes during repeated combing and after rinsing the cream fixes the hair in the usual way. H. Process according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the annulfonium, sodium or potassium salt of thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid is used. 5. A process according to claim 1 to 11, characterized in that pancreatin is used as the ester-cleaving enzyme. PUBLICATIONS MADE: t: u_ _ _. -