RU2692849C2 - Method of protecting colouring of textile material using an oil-in-water emulsion containing a mixture of alkyl polyglycoside and fatty alcohol and associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: chemistry.

SUBSTANCE: one object of the invention is a method of protecting colour of a coloured textile material, where to the surface of said textile material there is used at least one emulsion of oil-in-water type, wherein this emulsion contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (A) at least a mixture containing at least one alkyl polyglycoside, the alkyl chain of which is a linear or branched chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; (C) at least one associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane.

EFFECT: use of the composition as an agent for reducing or eliminating fading of the coloured textile material in contact with the composition containing at least one antiperspirant active substance.

19 cl, 1 tbl, 2 ex

Description

One object of the present invention, therefore, is a method for preventing the color of a colored textile material, where at least one oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the surface of said textile material, and this emulsion contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

(A) at least a mixture containing at least one alkylpolyglycoside, the alkyl chain of which is a linear or branched chain, containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms ;

(C) at least one associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane.

The second object of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined above as a means for reducing or eliminating the fading of a dyed textile material in contact with a composition containing at least one active antiperspirant substance.

In the field of cosmetics, it is well known to use anti-sweat drugs for external use to control perspiration, to reduce the sensation of moisture on the skin associated with human sweat, and to mask human sweat.

A large number of different types of antiperspirant compositions have appeared in literature and on the market, for example, in gels, pencils, creams, ballpoint pencils or aerosols.

They usually contain aluminum salts or complexes as an antiperspirant active. These active ingredients are particularly widely used as antiperspirant actives. It is believed that the principle of action of such active substances is the formation of a gel in the sweat duct. This gel creates a blocking mass that partially covers sweat-releasing pores. Thus, perspiration decreases. These aluminum salts are also effective because they are antibacterial agents. They thus play a direct role in the effectiveness of the deodorant by reducing the number of bacteria responsible for the decomposition of sweat.

Anti-theft remedies currently commercially available, when used in the armpit, tend to come into contact with garments that are usually colored and contribute to fading of the original color after machine washing and ironing.

Consumers of antiperspirants, therefore, need a suitable composition, which may contain the antiperspirant active ingredient and which allows the color of the dyed textile materials to be retained after repeated applications to the surface of the skin and repeated washes and joints.

Patent applications WO 92/06778, WO95 / 13863 and WO 98/47610 disclose emulsifying systems, including mixtures of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols, for the preparation of oil-in-water emulsions, which may contain a very wide range of active ingredients and especially active ingredients of the deodorant. These glucolipid emulsifying agents have the advantage that they are combined with all types of fatty phase, as well as with a strong acidic aqueous medium, in particular, containing anti-saline salts. They allow you to get emulsions in a wide range of structures, from rich to practically absent with a liquid or creamy consistency.

Anti-constitution formulations of oil-in-water emulsions are known from EP 1550435, these compositions include

(B) at least a mixture containing at least one alkylpolyglycoside, the alkyl chain of which is a linear or branched chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms ;

(C) at least one associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane.

The applicant has unexpectedly discovered that this type of oil-in-water emulsion allows the color of dyed textile materials to be retained after repeated applications to the skin surface and repeated washes and glazes.

This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.

One object of the present invention, therefore, is a method for preventing the color of a colored textile material, where at least one oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the surface of said textile material, and this emulsion contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

(A) at least a mixture containing at least one alkylpolyglycoside, the alkyl chain of which is a linear or branched chain, containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms ;

(C) at least one associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane.

The second object of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined above as a means for reducing or eliminating the fading of a dyed textile material in contact with a composition containing at least one active antiperspirant substance.

In the context of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means an environment suitable for external use of the composition. The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, in other words, an environment that is free from an unpleasant odor or appearance and which is fully compatible with the external route of administration. In this case, when the composition is intended for external administration, in other words, for administration by applying a keratin substance to the surface, such an environment is considered, in particular, physiologically acceptable when it does not cause burning, dryness or redness, which is unacceptable to the user.

The term "antiperspirant active ingredient" means any aluminum salt or complex that in itself has the effect of reducing perspiration, reducing the sensation of moisture on the skin associated with human sweat, and masking human sweat.

The term "oil-in-water emulsion" means a composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase; moreover, these two phases are stabilized using an emulsifying system.

In the context of the present invention, the term "associative polymers" means hydrophilic polymers capable of reversibly associating with one another or with other molecules in an aqueous medium. Their chemical structure, in particular, includes at least one hydrophilic area and at least one hydrophobic area.

By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon radical, it contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or also from a polyalkylated fatty alcohol, for example, steareth-100. Equally, it can denote a hydrocarbon polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene.

TEXTILE MATERIALS

The term "dyed textile material" means any material that can be woven and dyed according to known dyeing techniques. It refers to a material that can be converted into fibers or threads, such as cotton, wool, hemp or linen (natural textiles), or synthetic fibers made from synthetic polymers.

Among the textile materials made from synthetic fibers, polyamides such as Nylon®, polyesters, chlorine-containing polyvinyl chloride fibers, such as Rhovil®, acrylics, vinyl celluloses, such as cellulose acetate, and elastomeric thermoplastic polyurethanes, such as like Lycra®.

MIXTURE OF ALKYLPOLIGLUCOSIDE / FATTY ALCOHOL

Compositions in accordance with the invention include at least a mixture of:

a) at least one alkylpolyglycoside with a linear or branched alkyl chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

b) at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

In the composition of the mixture acts as an emulsifying agent.

In the context of the present invention, the term "alkylpolyglycoside" means an alkyl monosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1) or an alkylpolyglycoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1).

Preferably, the alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside emulsifying mixture comprises:

(a) the mass fraction of alkylpolyglycoside (s), comprising from 5% to 60%;

(b) the mass fraction of fatty (s) alcohol (s), comprising from 95% to 40% of the total mass of the specified emulsifying mixture.

Alkipolyglycosides can be used either by themselves or as mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides. They usually correspond to the following structure:

R (O) (G) _x ,

in which the radical R is a linear or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical, G is a residue of a saccharide and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

The saccharide residue may be selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose, and starch. More preferably, the saccharide residue is glucose.

It should also be noted that each unit of the alkylpolyglycoside polysaccharide portion may be in the form of the α or β isomer, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.

Of course, it is possible to use mixtures of alkypolysaccharides that differ from each other in the nature of the terminal alkyl unit and / or the nature of the basic polysaccharide chain.

As regards fatty alcohols for use, either alone or in mixtures, in combination with the alkylpolysaccharides of emulsifying mixtures in accordance with this invention, they can be linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic or natural origin, for example, alcohols derived from plant material (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal material (fat, etc.). It goes without saying that other long-chain alcohols can be used, for example, ether alcohols or Coat of arms. Finally, it is also possible to use some fractions of more or less long alcohols of natural origin, for example from coconut (from C ₁₂ to C ₁₆ ), or fat (from C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ ), or compounds like diol or cholesterol.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (e) fatty (e) alcohol (s) used is selected from alcohols containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

As specific examples of fatty alcohols that can be used in the context of the present invention, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol can be specifically mentioned. yourself or in the form of mixtures.

In addition, according to the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to use both a fatty alcohol and an alkyl polysaccharide, whose alkyl part is identical to that part of the selected fatty alcohol.

Fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside emulsifying mixtures, as defined above, are known per se. They are described in patent applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, and they are obtained according to the production methods indicated in these documents.

Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by SEPPIC under the trade name Montanov® or Fluidanov®, for example, the following mixtures:

cetyl stearyl alcohol / cocoylglucoside - Montanov 82®;

arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside - Montanov 802®;

myristyl alcohol / myristyl glucoside - Montanov 14®;

cetyl stearyl alcohol / cetyl stearyl glucoside - Montanov 68®;

C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohol / C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl glucoside - Montanov L®;

cocoyl alcohol / cocoylglucoside - Montanov S®;

isostearyl alcohol / isostearyl glucoside - Montanov WO 18®;

octyldodecyl alcohol / octyldodecyl xyloside - Fluidanov 20X®.

Preferred fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixtures can be selected from

cetyl stearyl alcohol / cetyl stearyl glucoside;

C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohol / C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl glucoside, and more specifically, a mixture of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohol / C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl glucoside, such as C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohol / C _12- C ₂₀ alkyl glucoside - Montanov L®.

The fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixture in the emulsions according to this invention is preferably present in concentrations varying (in mass fractions) from 0.5% to 15%, and more preferably from 1% to 10% of the total mass of the emulsion.

ASSOCIATIVE IONITE SIMPLE POLYESTER-POLYURETHANE

The non-ionic polyether polyurethanes of the invention generally contain in their chain both hydrophilic blocks, usually of the type of polyoxyethylene, and hydrophobic blocks, which can only be an aliphatic sequence and / or a cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequence.

Preferably, polyether polyurethanes contain at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms separated by a hydrophilic block, while the hydrocarbon chains may be suspended side chains or end chains of the hydrophilic block. In particular, the presence of one or more pendant side chains is possible. In addition, the polymer may contain a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of the hydrophilic block.

Polyether polyurethanes can be multi-block, in particular, in the form of three blocks. Hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: a three-block copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed simultaneously at the ends and in the chain (for example, a multi-block copolymer). These same polymers can equally be grafted or star-shaped.

The fatty chain nonionic polyether-polyurethanes can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.

Non-ionic polyether polyurethanes contain a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, where the name comes from.

In a broad sense, among non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes with a hydrophobic chain, there are also polymers in which hydrophilic blocks are linked to hydrophobic blocks by other chemical bonds.

As examples of non-ionic polyurethanes with a hydrophobic chain that can be used according to the invention, you can also use a urea functional group sold by Rheox or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®.

You can also call the product Elfacos T210® with C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® with C ₁₈ alkyl chain from the company Akzo.

The product DW 1206B® from Röhm & Haas can also be used with a C ₂₀ alkyl chain and a urethane bond containing 20% dry matter in water.

You can also use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular, in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. As an example of such polymers, Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox can be mentioned. You can also use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by Röhm & Haas.

Simple polyether-polyurethanes, which can be used according to the invention, are, in particular, polyether-polyurethanes, described in the article G. Fonnum, J. Bakke, Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

Even more specifically, according to the invention, simple polyether-polyurethane is used, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds, including (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyether polyurethanes are marketed, in particular, from Röhm & Haas under the trade name Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.

Moreover, Aculyn 46® according to INCI is called: PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, which is a product of polycondensation of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis- (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) with concentration ( mass fractions) 15%, in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%).

Aculyn 44® (PEG-150 copolymer / decyl alcohol / SMDI) is a polycondensation product of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis- (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), with a concentration (in mass fractions) of 35 %, in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).

Even more specifically, according to the invention, it is preferred to use polyether-polyurethane, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds, including (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) polyoxyethylenated stearyl an alcohol containing 100 moles of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate.

Such polyether-polyurethanes are marketed, in particular, from Sasol Servo BV under the trade name SER-AD FX 1100®, which is a polyethylene glycol polycondensation product containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated with 100 moles of ethylene oxide, and hexamethylenediisocyanate ( HDI) with a weighted average molecular weight of 30,000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-100I / SMDI copolymer).

The content of associative (s) simple (s) polyether-polyurethane (s) as the current composition may vary, for example, (in mass fractions) from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.25% to 8%, and even better - from 1.5% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

ACTIVE AGENTS OF ANTI-PERSPIRENT

According to one particular embodiment, the compositions may contain at least one antiperspirant active.

Among the active ingredients of the deodorant that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of the antiperspirant active or astringent. Preferably they are selected from aluminum and / or zirconium salts; zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with an amino acid, such as described in US Pat. No. 3,792,068, commonly known as "ZAG-complexes". Such complexes are commonly referred to as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Such complexes typically have an Al / Zr ratio varying from about 1.67 to 12.5, and a metal / Cl ratio varying from about 0.73 to 1.93. Among these products can be noted the aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate complex with glycine, the aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate complex with glycine, the aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate complex with glycine and the aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate complex with glycine.

Among the aluminum salts may be mentioned aluminum chlorohydrate complex aluminum chlorohydrate complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and PEG complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and PG, dihydrochloride aluminum complex dihydrochloride aluminum and PEG complex dihydrochloride aluminum and NG sesquichlorohydrate aluminum complex sesquichlorohydrate aluminum and PEG complex sesquichlorohydrate aluminum and PG, alum salts, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconiumtrichlorohydrate I, and more specifically, aluminum hydroxychloride, which Reheis sells under the trademark Microdry aluminum Chlorohydrate, or one that Guilini Chemie sells under the trademark Aloxicoll PF 40. Reheis, for example, Salts of aluminum and zirconia, is sold by Reach AZP 908-SUF®, "activated" aluminum salts, for example, a Reheis product sold under the trade name Reach 103, or Westwood sold under the trade name Westchlor 200.

The deodorant actives may also be bacteriostatic or bactericidal agents 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan®), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5 '-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (Triclocarban®) and 3,7,11-trimethyldodec-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts, such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts.

Other deodorant actives include zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, or zinc phenosulfonate; chlorhexidine and its salts; diglycerol monocaprate, diglycerol monolaurate, glycerol monolaurate; and salts of polyhexamethylene biguanide.

The mass fraction of deodorizing active ingredients in the composition of the present invention may be from about 0.001% to 40% and preferably from about 0.1% to 25% of the total weight of the composition.

EXISTING DEODORANT SUBSTANCES

According to one particular embodiment, the compositions may contain at least one active ingredient of the deodorant.

The term "active ingredient deodorant" means any substance that can reduce, mask or absorb the smell of the human body, and in particular - the smell from the armpits.

The active ingredients of the deodorant can be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides acting on microorganisms that cause odor from the armpits, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-dihydroxydiphenyl ether (®Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'- 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (®Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodec-2, 5,10-trienol (®Farnesol); ammonium quaternary salts, such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropane tetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (Symrise manufactured by Symrise), glycerol derivatives, for example, caprylic / nylon glycerides (Capmul MCM® manufactured by glycerol (Capmul MCM®, manufactured by glycerol), for example, caprylic / nylon glycerides (Capmul MCM® manufactured by glycerol (Capmul MCM® manufactured by glycerol), for example, caprylic / caproic glycerides (Capmul MCM® manufactured by glycerol (Capmul MCM® manufactured by glycerol), for example, caprylic / caproic glycerides (Capmul MCM® manufactured by glycerol) ), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC®, respectively, from Straetmans), polyglyceryl 2-caprate (Dermosoft DGMC from Straetmans), and biguanide derivatives, for example, polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® manufactured by Symrise); zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, or zinc phenosulfonate; salicylic acid and its derivatives, such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

The active substances of the deodorant can be odor absorbers, such as zinc ricinoleate or sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins or their derivatives. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47-S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. It can also be polyhydric alcohols, such as glycerin or 1,3-propandiol (Zemea Propanediol, marketed by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts), or enzyme inhibitors, such as triethyl citrate; or alum.

In the case of incompatibility or for their stabilization, some of the above-mentioned active substances, for example, enclose into spherules, especially ionic or non-ionic vesicles and / or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and / or nanospheres).

The concentration of the active ingredients of the deodorant in the composition of the present invention may be (in mass fractions) from 0.01 to 15% by weight of the total composition.

FAT PHASE

Compositions according to this invention may contain at least one water-immiscible organic liquid phase, called the fatty phase. This phase usually includes one or more hydrophobic compounds, as a result of which this phase does not mix with water. This phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25 ° C). Preferably, the water-immiscible organic liquid phase according to the present invention typically consists of at least one volatile oil and / or one non-volatile oil, and optionally at least one structuring agent.

The term "oil" means a fatty chemical compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, that is, 10 ⁵ Pa). Oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

In the context of this invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is able to evaporate upon contact with skin or keratin fibers for less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils according to this invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, the saturated vapor pressure of which is not zero at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and varies from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (from 10 ^-3 to 300 mm Hg .), in particular, varies from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (from 0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more precisely varies from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (from 0.01 to 10 mm Hg .st.)

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and which, in particular, has a saturated vapor pressure less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg. (0.13 Pa).

The oil may be selected from any physiologically acceptable oil and, in particular, a cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oils; in particular, volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils, and / or fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

More specifically, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and, optionally, one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxyl functional groups. In general, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100,000 mPS, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPS, and more preferably from 100 to 30,000 MPS.

As examples of volatile oils that can be used in the present invention, you can specify:

- volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C ₈ -C ₁₆ petroleum isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for example, isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils may also be used, for example, oil distillates, especially those sold under the trade name Shell Solt by Shell; volatile linear alkanes, such as described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from Cognis;

- volatile silicones, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those whose viscosity is ≤8 centistokes (8 × 10 ^-6 m ² / s), and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, and these silicones, optionally, contain alkyl groups or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the present invention can particularly mention octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, geptametilgeksiltrisiloksan, geptametiloktiltrisiloksan, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane;

- and their mixtures.

Mention should be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I):

,

,

where R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, in which one or more hydrogen atoms may be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of the general formula (I), the following should be mentioned:

3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

As examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the present invention, you can specify:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon vegetable oils, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for example, heptane or octanoic acid triglycerides, or wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, courgette oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, wheat oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlestick fruit oil, passiflora oil, oil musk rose, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, squash oil, grape seed oil, tahini oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / caproic triglycerides, such as Stéarineries sells Dubois, or such as are sold under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins or their derivatives, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalene;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- synthetic esters, especially fatty acids, for example, oils of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , where R ₁ is a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ is a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₁ + R ₂ ≥10, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palms Iate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; an alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol based on octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for example, propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for example, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyhydric alcohol esters, for example, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for example pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;

- fatty alcohols, liquid at room temperature, with carbon-containing chain, branched and / or unsaturated, with the 12-26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl, 2-undetsilpentadekanol or oleyl alcohol;

- higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

- carbonates;

- acetates;

- citrates;

- fluorinated oils, optionally partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone, for example fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyesters and fluorinated silicones, as described in patent EP-A-847 752;

- silicone oils, for example, non-volatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups suspended from the silicone chain and / or at its end, and these groups contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl radical silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and

- and their mixtures.

STRUCTURE-FORMING AGENT

Compositions according to the invention, containing a fatty phase, may also contain at least one agent for imparting structure to said fatty phase, which is preferably chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, mineral or lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

It should be understood that the amount of these substances can be selected by a person skilled in the art in such a way as not to disturb the desired effect in the context of the present invention.

Wax (s)

Wax is generally a lipophilic compound that is a solid at room temperature (25 ° C), which undergoes a reversible change in solid / liquid state, having a melting point higher than or equal to 30 ° C, which can be up to 200 ° C, and in particular up to 120 ° C.

In particular, waxes suitable for this invention may exhibit a melting point higher than or equal to 45 ° C and, in particular, higher than or equal to 55 ° C.

In the context of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed during thermal analysis (DSC), as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The wax melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter marketed under the name MDSC 2920® from TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise in the range from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, heating at a rate of 10 ° C / min; then it is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C with a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min, and then it is subjected to a second temperature rise in the range from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, heating at a speed of 5 ° C / min. During the second temperature rise, the changes in the difference between the energy absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample are measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of a compound is defined as the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the peak representing the change in the difference in absorbed energy as a function of temperature.

The waxes that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are in solid state at room temperature and have animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, or mixtures thereof.

As an illustration of waxes suitable for the present invention, it is possible to mention, in particular, hydrocarbon waxes, for example, beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, uricuri wax, esparto wax, berry wax, wax shellac, Japanese wax and suma wax, montana wax, orange wax and lemon wax, refined sunflower wax under the trade name Sunflower Wax® from Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozocerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and wax-like copolymers, as well as their esters.

Mention should be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention is made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, produced or supplied by Desert Whale under the commercial brand Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated orange, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil oil and bis (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, marketed under the name Hest 2T-4S® from Heterene.

Also noteworthy are silicone waxes (C _30-45 alkyldimethicone) and fluorinated waxes.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil and esterified with cetyl alcohol can also be used; they are marketed under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® from Sophim. Such waxes are described in application number FR-A-2792190.

Suitable for use, both by itself and in a mixture, wax, which represents a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl- (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group contains from 20 to 40 carbon atoms).

Such wax, in particular, is marketed under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" from Koster Keunen.

As micro-waxes that can be used in compositions according to this invention, it is possible to mention, in particular, carnauba micro-squeezers, such as the product marketed under the MicroCare 350® name from Micro Powders, synthetic micro-sores, such as the product marketed under MicroEase 114S® from Micro Powders, micro-mousses consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as products marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® from Micro Powders, micro-mousses consisting of a mixture carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product marketed under the Micro Care 325® name from Micro Powders, polyethylene microwax, such as products marketed as Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® from the company Micro Powders, Performalene 400 Polyethylene® and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene® commercial products from New Phase Technologies, Performalene 655 Polyethylene and paraffin waxes, for example, called INCI - Microcrystalline Wax® and Synthetic Wax and marketed as Microlease® from the company Sochibo; polytetrafluoroethylene mikrovoski, such as sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® from the company Micro Powders.

The preferred content of wax (s) in the composition according to this invention varies in the range (in mass fractions) from 3% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, in particular, from 5% to 15%, and more preferably from 6% to 15%.

According to a certain embodiment of the invention, in relation to anhydrous solid compositions in pencil form, the use of polyethylene microwax in the form of crystallites with an aspect ratio of at least 2 and with a melting point in the range from 70 ° C to 110 ° C and preferably from 70 ° C to 100 ° C, in order to reduce, or even eliminate the presence of layers in the solid composition.

These crystallites in the needle form and especially their sizes can be characterized visually according to the following method.

The wax is placed on a glass slide and transferred to a hot plate. The glass and wax are heated to a temperature in the general case not less than 5 ° C higher than the melting point of the wax or mixture of waxes in question. At the end of the melting, the liquid thus obtained and the glass slide are allowed to cool to solidify. The crystallites are observed using a Leica DMLB100® optical microscope with an objective lens selected as a function of the size of the observed objects, and in polarized light. Crystallite sizes are measured using image analysis software such as sold by Microvision.

The crystallites of polyethylene waxes according to this invention preferably have an average length in the range from 5 to 10 microns. The term "average length" means the size obtained from the statistical particle size distribution of half the population, which is recorded as D50.

More specifically, a mixture of Performalene 400 Polyethylene® and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene® waxes from New Phase Technologies can be used.

Pasty compounds

In the context of this invention, the term "pasty compounds" is intended to refer to a lipophilic fatty compound, undergo a reversible change in solid / liquid state, which in solid form is characterized by anisotropic organization of crystals, and which at 23 ° C contains a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. Pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from raw materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound can advantageously be selected from:

- lanolin and its derivatives,

- polymer and polimerny silicone compounds,

- polymeric and non-polymeric fluorinated compounds,

- vinyl polymers, especially:

- olefinic homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

- linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl- (meth) acrylates, preferably containing a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group,

- oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,

- oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,

- oil-soluble polyethers obtained by polyesterification between one or more C ₂ -C ₁₀₀ and preferably C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols,

- esters

- and their mixtures.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred:

- oligomeric glycerol esters, preferably diglycerin esters, in particular, adipic acid and glycerol condensates, in which a part of the hydroxyl groups of glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydrocystic acid, isoteroic acid, 12-hydrocyclic acid, and capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxy acid. , especially those that go on sale under the name Sasol Softisan 649®,

- arachidyl propionate, marketed under the brand name Waxenol 801 from the company Alzo,

- phytosterol esters,

- triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives,

- pentaerythritol esters,

- unstitched polyesters obtained by polycondensation of linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅₀ dicarboxylic acid or polybasic carboxylic acid and C ₂ -C ₅₀ diol or polyhydric alcohol,

- aliphatic esters of esters obtained by esterification between the ester of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid and aliphatic carboxylic acid,

- polyesters obtained by esterification of a polybasic carboxylic acid ester of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid, and the specified ester contains at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H® and Risocast DA-L®,

- esters of diol dimer and dimer of dibasic acid, in appropriate cases, esterified according to their (their) free (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) functional group (s) radicals of acids or alcohols, such as Plandool-G ®,

- and their mixtures.

Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, chosen particularly preferably, is a mixture of soybean sterols and hydroxyethylated (5 EO) oxypropylated (5 software) pentaerythritol, marketed under the Lanolide index from Vevy.

Lipophilic gelling agents

Mineral gelling agents

Mineral lipophilic gelling agents worth mentioning include optionally modified clays, for example, hectorites modified with C10-C22 ammonium chloride, for example, hectorites, chloride distearyldimethylammonium modified, for example, the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis.

Mention may also be made of colloidal silicon dioxide, optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, with a particle size of less than 1 micron. This is due to the possibility of chemical modification of the surface of silicon dioxide by a chemical reaction, leading to a reduced number of silanol groups on the surface of silicon dioxide. This is especially possible due to the replacement of silanol groups with hydrophobic groups; hydrophobic silica is thus obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained, in particular, by treating colloidal silicon dioxide in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silica treated in this way is known as “silanized silica” according to data from CTFA certified sales offices (8th edition, 2000). They go on sale, for example, under the brands Aerosil R812® from the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® from the company Cabot; dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained, in particular, by treating colloidal silicon dioxide in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silica treated in this way is known as “dimethylsilanized silica” according to data from certified CTFA sales representatives (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the brands Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® from Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® from Cabot.

Hydrophobic colloidal silicon dioxide, in particular, has a particle size that can be nanometric or micrometric, for example, in the range from about 5 to 200 nm.

Organic gelling agents

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes with a three-dimensional structure, such as, for example, marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® or Trefil E -506C® from Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® from Grant Industries and SF 1204® and JK 113 ® from General Electric; ethylcellulose, for example, a product marketed under the name Ethocel® from Dow Chemical; galactomannans in which in each saccharide from one to six, in particular, from two to four hydroxyl groups are replaced by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for example, guar gum, alkylated with C ₁ -C ₆ , and in particular, C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof. Polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene block copolymers of the “two-block”, “three-block” or “radial” type, such as products marketed as Luvitol HSB® from BASF, polystyrene / copolymer type (ethylene-propylene ), such as products marketed under the Kraton® name from Shell Chemical Co., or polystyrene / copolymer (ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star-like) copolymers in isododecane, such as marketed by the company Penreco under the trade name Versage l®, for example, a mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers with a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, containing a) a polymer backbone with hydrocarbon repeating units containing at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendant fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain consisting of 6-120 carbon atoms and associated with these hydrocarbon units, as described in patent WO-A-02/056 847 and WO-A-02/47619, in particular, polyamide resins (especially those containing alkyl groups of 12-22 carbon atoms), such as described in US-A-5 783 657.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, dextrin esters of fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate, such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® from Chiba Flour can also be mentioned.

Silicone polyamides such as polyorganosiloxanes, such as those described in US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680, can also be used.

These silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:

- polyorganosiloxanes containing at least two groups capable of participating in hydrogen interactions, and these two groups are in the polymer chain, and / or

- polyorganosiloxanes containing at least two groups capable of participating in hydrogen interactions, and these two groups are located on grafted areas or branches.

ADDITIVES

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain cosmetic auxiliaries selected from organic powders, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickeners or suspending agents, propellants or any other ingredients commonly used. in cosmetics of this type of application.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional substances so that the beneficial properties of the cosmetic composition according to the invention do not deteriorate significantly due to the intended additive (s).

ORGANIC POWDER

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention also contain an organic powder.

In this application, the term "organic powder" means any solid that is insoluble in medium at room temperature (25 ° C).

Organic powders can be used in the compositions of this invention, examples worthy of mention include polyamide particles, and especially those sold under the trade name Orgasol® from Atochem; Nylon-6,6 fibers, especially polyamide fibers sold by Etablissements P Bonte under the trade name Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm® (INCI name: Nylon-6,6® or polyamide-6,6) with an average diameter of 6 microns, weighing approximately 0.9 dtex and a length in the range from 0.3 mm to 1.5 mm; polyethylene powders; acrylic copolymer-based microspheres, such as those made from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Polytrap®; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres marketed as Microsphere M-100® from Matsumoto or Covabead LH85® from Wackherr; polymethyl methacrylate hollow microspheres (particle size: 6.5-10.5 μm), sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800® by the company Ganz Chemical; methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer beads (size: 6.5-10.5 μm), sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820® by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640® by Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethylene acrylate copolymer powders such as those sold under the name Flobeads® by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and especially microspheres formed from terpolymers of vinylidenechloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name Expancel® by Kemanord Plast under the code number 551 DE 12® (with a particle size of about 12 microns and a mass per unit volume of 40 kg / m ³ ), 551 DE 20® (with a particle size of about 30 microns and a mass per unit volume is 65 kg / m ³ ), 551 DE 50® (with a particle size of about 40 microns), or microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials, such as starch powder, especially crosslinked or unstitched starch from corn, wheat or rice, such as starch powders, stitched with octenyl anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo® by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the Tospearl® name by Toshiba Silicone, especially Tospearl 240®; amino acid powders such as lauryl lysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL-11® by the company Ajinomoto; wax microdispersion particles with a preferred average size of 1 μm, and especially in the range from 0.02 μm to 1 μm, and which are mainly formed from waxes or wax mixtures, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer® by Byk Cera, and especially: Aquacer 520 (a mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513® (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 511 (polymeric wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (a mixture of polyethylene wax and paraffin wax ) under the trade name Ceraflour 961® by Byk Cera (finely ground modified polyethylene wax); and mixtures thereof.

SPLASHERS AND SUSPENDING FUNDS

Thickeners can be selected from carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulens (acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl-acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example, crosslinked copolymers marketed under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / acryloyl dimethyl taurate sodium copolymer / isohexadecane) / polysorbate 80; SEPPIC; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, for example, poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademarks "Hostacerin AMPS®" (CTFA name : ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurirate) or Simulgel 800®, sold by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, for example, Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10®, sold by SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethyl cellulose or cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; polysaccharides, and especially gums, such as xanthan gum and hydroxypropylguar gum; silica, such as Bentone Gel MIO®, sold by NL Industries or Veegum Ultra®, sold by Polyplastic.

Thickeners can also be cationic, for example, polyquaternium-37, marketed under the name Salcare SC95® (polyquaternium-37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96® (Polyquaternium-37 (and ) propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (s) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or other crosslinked cationic polymers, for example, those under the CTFA names cationic copolymer of ethyl acrylate / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate in the emulsion.

Suspenders

In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, it is also possible to use one or more suspending agents, preferably selected from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. Examples worth mentioning include Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (a reaction product of bentonite and quaternary ammonium stearalconium chloride), such as a commercial product marketed under the name Tixogel MP 250 from Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc., or Distearyldimonium hectorite (CTFA name) (reaction product of hectorite and distearyldimonium chloride), marketed under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel from Elementis Specialties.

Other suspending agents may be used, in this case hydrophilic (aqueous and / or ethanol) media. They can be cellulose, xanthan, guar, starch, carob or agar-agar derivatives.

The content of suspending agents present (in mass fractions) is preferably from 0.1% to 5% and preferably from 0.2% to 2% of the total weight of the composition.

The content of these various constituents, which may be present in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, is as commonly used in anti-perspiration compositions.

FORMS OF COMPOSITION

The composition of the invention can be obtained in the form of a more or less viscous cream distributed in a tube or mesh; in the form of a pencil (due to the shape of the ball) or in a compressed form, such as a spray or aerosol device, and the composition may therefore contain components commonly used in the production of this type, which are well known to a person skilled in the art. Preferably the composition is obtained in the form of a pencil.

Compositions according to the invention may also be pressurized and packaged in an aerosol device consisting of:

(A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined above,

(B) at least one propellant and a means for dispensing said aerosol composition.

Propellants commonly used in products of this type and well known to those skilled in the art are, for example, dimethyl ether (DME); volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorohydrocarbon and / or hydrofluorocarbon; Among these derivatives, the compounds supplied by DuPont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1,1-difluoroethane, especially marketed under the trademark Dymel 152 A® from by DuPont. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air can also be used as a propellant.

The compositions as defined above and the propellant (s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments of the aerosol container. According to the invention, the concentration of the propellant (in mass fractions) varies from 5% to 95% by weight of the composition under pressure, and more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight of the total composition under pressure.

Means for dosing, which form part of the aerosol device, are usually formed from a metering valve controlled by a dosing head, which in turn includes a nozzle through which the aerosol composition evaporates. The container containing the composition under pressure may be opaque or transparent. It can be made of glass, polymer or metal, optionally coated with a protective lacquer layer.

The expressions "from ... to" and "varying from ... to ..." should be understood as the limits within which the boundaries are included, unless otherwise indicated.

The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope of the invention.

Examples

Examples of manufactured compositions: method of preparation and conditions of use

Test to assess the color of the fabric

Used materials and equipment

Square sample of dyed fabric size: 10 cm × 10 cm.

Red cotton fabric, plain weave, basis weight 217.7 g / m ² .

Used washing product: Le Chat Sensitive Liquide®, amount: ~ 50 ml = 48 g.

The amount of the composition according to the invention on the tissue sample: 0.4 g

Colorimeter: Konica Minolta®.

Method:

A colorimetric measurement was obtained on untreated tissue by estimating the average of three measurements on each tissue. This measured value corresponds to the reference fabric color.

0.4 g of the composition was applied in the center of each tissue sample.

Each tissue sample was folded in four.

The folded fabric was placed on a perforated plate and covered with a film of cellophane.

Incubated for 16 hours at 37 ° C (reproducing conditions when worn during the day).

Samples were washed in a washing machine at 40 ° C.

Dried in a tumble dryer.

Samples were ironed.

A colorimetric measurement was performed and the average of three measurements for each tissue was determined.

Performed 4 wash cycles, after which the tissue samples were left in the light for 48 hours.

The results were expressed in the system (L *, a *, b *), in which L * is the brightness, a * is the red-green axis (-a * = green, + a * = red) and b * is the axis yellow-blue (-b * = blue, + b * = yellow). Thus, a * and b * reflect the color tone of the tissue sample.

An important parameter to assess the change in color of the fabric is ΔE * between, respectively, the time t = 0 when applying the composition and t = 4 cycles and 48 hours of exposure to light. The difference in color was obtained using the Hunter color difference formula in the colorimetric coordinates L *, a *, b *:

(ΔE *) ² = [(ΔL *) ² + (Δa *) ² + (Δb *) ² ]. ΔE reflects color changes: the larger the ΔE value, the more the color changes relative to the original color.

Ingredients Example 1 (invention) ball pencil Example 2 (not included in the invention) standard ball pencil Copolymer PEG-136 / Stearet-100l / SMDI (SER-AD FX 1100) one C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohols / C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl glucosides - Montanov L 3 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Liquid) 7 0.7 Cetearyl alcohol (Nafol 1618 S) 2.5 Ceteareth-33
(Simulsol CS, scales) 1.25 Aluminum hydroxychloride, aq. solution (50% dilution in water, Chlorohydrol 50) 20 thirty Glutamate diacetate tetrasodium (Dissolvine GL-47-S) 0.16 Perlite (25 microns) (Optimat 2550 OR) one one Preservative 0.075 0.5 Odorant one one Water up to 100 up to 100 ΔE * after 4 cycles and 48 hours in the light 0.83 ± 0.07 3.10 ± 0.07

It was found that the composition 1 of the present invention allows to obtain a more stable color of the fabric after 4 wash cycles, and then 48 hours of exposure to light.

Claims (34)

1. A method of preventing the coloring of a colored textile material, characterized in that at least one oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the surface of said textile material, and this emulsion contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (A) at least a mixture containing at least one alkylpolyglycoside, the alkyl chain of which is a linear or branched chain, containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms ; (B) at least one associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane. 2. The method according to claim 1, in which the specified emulsifying agent contains (in mass fractions) (a) from 5% to 60% alkylpolyglycoside (s), (b) from 95% to 40% fatty alcohol (s) by weight of the total emulsifying mixture. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, in which the alkyl polyglycoside (s) has the following structure: R (O) (G) _x , in which the radical R is a linear or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical, G is a residue of a saccharide and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2. 4. The method according to claim 3, wherein the residue of saccharide G is selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, thalose, allose, xylose, left glucan, cellulose and starch . 5. The method according to claim 4, in which the residue of the saccharide G means glucose. 6. The method according to claim 1, in which the fatty (e) alcohol (s) contains (am) from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. 7. The method according to claim 6, in which the fatty (e) alcohol (s) is selected, alone or as a mixture, from lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol. 8. The method according to claim 1, in which the alkyl polyglucoside contains an alkyl portion that is identical to that portion of the fatty alcohol. 9. The method according to claim 1, in which the fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixture is selected from the following mixtures: cetyl stearyl alcohol / cocoyl glucoside; arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside; myristyl alcohol / myristyl glucoside; cetyl stearyl alcohol / cetyl stearyl glucoside; C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohol / C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl glucoside; cocoyl alcohol / cocoylglucoside; isostearyl alcohol / isostearyl glucoside. 10. The method of claim 9, wherein the fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixture is selected from: cetyl stearyl alcohol / cetyl stearyl glucoside; C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohol / C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl glucoside, and more specifically, mixtures of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alcohol / C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl glucoside. 11. The method according to claim 1, in which the associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane contains both hydrophilic blocks and hydrophobic blocks in its chain, which can only be aliphatic sequences and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. 12. The method according to claim 11, in which the associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane contains at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, while the hydrocarbon chains can be suspended side chains or end chains of the hydrophilic block. 13. The method according to claim 12, wherein the associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane contains a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of the hydrophilic block. 14. The method according to claim 11, in which the associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane is multi-block, in particular in the form of three blocks. 15. The method of claim 14, wherein the associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane has a three-block appearance, where the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain containing from 50 to 100 oxyethylene groups. 16. The method according to any one of paragraphs.11-15, in which the associative non-ionic simple polyester-polyurethane can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds, including (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide , (ii) polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol containing 100 moles of ethylene oxide, and (iii) diisocyanate. 17. The method according to claim 16, in which the associative non-ionic polyether-polyurethane is a PEG-136 / stearet-100 / SMDI copolymer. 18. The method according to claim 1, in which the textile material is a colored textile material that is in contact with a composition containing at least one antiperspirant active. 19. The method according to claim 1, in which the emulsion, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17, is in the form of a composition, which has the form of a cream, distributed in a tube or grid; placed in the shape of a pencil or in a compressed form, such as a spray bottle or aerosol, and more specifically, the shape of a ball pencil is placed.