RU2575578C1 - Cosmetic gel for problem skin - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: cosmetic gel for problem skin comprises gelling and moisturising ingredients, bioactive plant extracts, perfume, water, preservatives, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, citric acid in the following ratio of components, wt %: xanthan gum 0.5-1; hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.5-1; glycerine 5-15; potassium sorbate 0.1-0.6; sodium benzoate 0.1-0.6; polyglyceryl-4-laurate/sebacate/polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate 0.05-0.15; sodium lauryl sarcosinate 0.05-0.15; perfume 0.02-0.1; bur beggar-ticks (an extract from flowers, leaves, stems) 0.01-0.3; an extract from the leaves of aloe vera 0.05-0.15; panthenol 1-10; dipotassium glycerrhizinate 0.05-0.2; hyaluronic acid 0.1-1.5; citric acid 0.05-0.2; purified water - the rest.

EFFECT: softening and reducing inflammation of problem skin, strengthening its protective functions.

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and can be used to mitigate and reduce inflammation of problem skin, as well as to strengthen its protective functions.

Problematic skin is characterized by excessive secretion of sebum, manifestations of seborrhea, enlarged ducts of the sebaceous glands, overgrowth of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, decreased self-sterilizing properties of sebum, increased skin pH, sensitization to microbial antigens.

Known recipes for creams, gels, containing an oil phase or an aqueous base, structure-forming components, emulsifiers, emollients, plant extracts as biologically active additives with anti-inflammatory and protective properties.

A cosmetic product for oily and problem skin is known (RF patent No. 22118911, A61K 7/48, A61K 35/78, publ. 2003), including a series of oil extract, wheat germ oil extract, bergamot essential oil, grapefruit essential oil, rosemary essential oil as well as Graphites C6, Melissa C3, Salvia C3 and Symphytum C6 and a base consisting of spermaceti, beeswax, cocoa butter, emulsion wax and distilled water, taken in a certain ratio. The tool is made in the form of a cream.

The presence of fatty components in a product designed to care for problem skin is highly undesirable, since the appearance of inflammation is often associated with increased sebum secretion.

Known means for the care of problem skin (RF patent No. 2193394, A61K 7/48, A61K 7/00, publ. 2002), made in the form of a gel and containing aqueous extracts of fucus vesiculata and green tea, water-alcohol extracts of birch leaves, juniper , horsetail and cayenne pepper, as well as glycerin, carbopol, triethanolamine, mustard sarepta, nipagin, nipazole, mandarin essential oil and water.

The cosmetic product is intended to affect problem areas of the abdomen, thighs, forearm, and to prevent cellulite and has a warming effect. The product is not intended for problematic skin.

Closest to the proposed cosmetic product (prototype) is cosmetic gel for problem skin (RF patent No. 2150264, А61К 7/00, А61К 7/48, publ. 2000), containing gel-forming and moisturizing components, biologically active plant extracts, perfume composition, drinking water, and also additionally contains an anti-acne drug, antiseptics, preservatives.

Known tool has a high moisturizing ability, epithelizing effect, eliminates skin inflammation, but does not have sufficient protective properties.

The aim of the invention is to increase the anti-inflammatory and protective properties of a cosmetic product for accelerated granulation of skin epithelium in inflammatory processes and other defects of problem skin.

An object of the present invention is to provide a sustained release agent for the care of problematic skin, which simultaneously has a softening, protective and anti-inflammatory effect. In this case, the product should have a soft, delicate texture, easily and evenly applied to the skin.

A water-based cosmetic in the form of a gel allows you to better control the application and uniform distribution of the active ingredient on the skin. In addition, the gel acts as a sustained release system that gradually delivers the active ingredient in a therapeutically effective amount over an extended period of time.

The problem is solved in that the cosmetic gel for problem skin consists of xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, glycerol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, polyglyceryl-4-laurate / sebacate / polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, perfume, flower extract, leaves and stems of a series of tripartite extract from the leaves of aloe, panthenol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, hyaluronic acid, citric acid and water, and the components in the gel are in a certain ratio, wt.%:

Xanthan gum 0.5-1 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.5-1 Glycerol 5-15 Potassium sorbate 0.1-0.6 Sodium benzoate 0.1-0.6 Polyglyceryl-4-Laurate / Sebacate / Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate 0.05-0.15 Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate 0.05-0.15 Perfume 0.02-0.1 Extract from flowers, leaves and stem of a string tripartite 0.01-0.3 Aloe leaf extract 0.05-0.15 Panthenol 1-10 Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.05-0.2 Hyaluronic acid 0.1-1.5 Lemon acid 0.05-0.2 Water rest

The components included in the gel, taken in optimal proportions, have a pronounced softening, protective and anti-inflammatory effect.

The gel base contains xanthan gum as a thickener, stabilizer, emulsifier, polyglyceryl-4-laurate / sebacate / polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate as a salubilizer, thickener hydroxyethyl cellulose, preservatives, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate, purified anionic surfactant sodium lauryl arsark.

Xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum) - a natural chemical compound that acts as a thickener, stabilizer, gelling agent, moisturizer. Gum moisturizes the skin well and helps active substances penetrate the pores, forms a thin protective film and maintains the correct water-lipid balance.

As a softening and moisturizing component in the formulation introduced glycerin (Glycerin) 5-15 wt.%. The introduction of glycerol below the specified limit does not provide a softening effect, overdosing creates a dense consistency.

The tripartite series (Bidens Tripartita) has a rich chemical composition, it contains vitamins A, C, essential oils, trace elements - zinc, magnesium, calcium, potassium, boron, copper, iron, etc., tannins, bitter and mucous substances are present. This composition allows the series, first of all, to effectively deal with various skin diseases, improve the secretory functions of the skin. It has a drying, healing, anti-inflammatory, soothing effect. In addition, the series has antiallergic and capillary-strengthening action. The optimal effect of a series of tripartite in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.01-0.3%.

Aloe vera extract (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract) is an adaptogen that reduces itching, skin irritation, the appearance of pustules and spots, resolves scar elements, improves the appearance of the skin. It has anti-inflammatory, wound healing, anti-burn, antimicrobial and absorbable effects. Enhances general and local immunity. Contains enzymes, vitamins, volatile, resinous substances, essential oils. The optimal effect of aloe vera in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.05-0.15%.

Panthenol (Panthenol) helps restore damaged tissues, restores cellular metabolism, has an anti-inflammatory effect, soothes and moisturizes the skin. Panthenol increases the resistance of the skin's own collagen to the destructive influence of external factors, accelerates the division and growth of epithelial cells, which leads to the rapid replacement of the scab crust on a healed wound with normal, fully functional cells. The optimal effect of panthenol in this composition is observed at a concentration of 1-10%.

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate) is a component with pronounced anti-inflammatory activity isolated from licorice. Quickly removes redness and skin irritation. With prophylactic use, it soothes the skin, making it less sensitive to substances that cause irritation and allergies. The optimal effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.05-0.2%.

Hyaluronic acid (Hyaluronic Acid), being one of the components of the gel, promotes the deep penetration into the pores of the skin of a complex of biologically active substances that make up its composition. Hyaluronic acid helps maintain skin moisture, softens it, while forming a thin, gas-permeable film on the surface of the skin, which protects the skin from external influences. The optimal effect of hyaluronic acid in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.1-1.5%.

As a regulator of the pH of the composition in the formulation, it is necessary and sufficient to introduce citric acid (Citric Acid) 0.05-0.2 wt.%.

Perfume (Perfume) gives the gel a pleasant smell, has a deodorizing effect. Its optimal content in the gel should be 0.02-0.1%.

Thus, the above concentration of the components of the proposed gel for problem skin of the face helps to increase the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing effects; contributes to the normalization of metabolic processes and blood supply to the skin; increases the delivery to the tissues of vitamins, macro- and microelements, nutrients and substances that contribute to the rapid restoration of connective tissue structures by introducing new ingredients into the cream.

The invention is illustrated by the following example.

To obtain a gel using ingredients that meet the relevant requirements:

The preparation of cosmetic gel for problem skin is carried out according to the following technology: load the required amount of demineralized water into a vessel, mix and add a previously homogenized premix consisting of xanth gum and hydroxyethyl cellulose with stirring, mix until the solution is homogenized, add glycerin, mix and add potassium sorbate. It is stirred until the solution is homogenized and sodium benzoate is added. It is mixed until the solution is homogenized and a pre-homogenized premix consisting of polyglyceryl-4-laurate / sebacate / polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate and perfumes are added to the mixture. Each subsequent component is separately added to the mixer, followed by stirring until the solution is homogenized: previously homogenized extract of flowers, leaves and stem of a three-part sequence, Aloe extract, pre-homogenized, d-panthenol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, pre-homogenized, hyaluronic acid, pre-citric acid diluted in parts of demineralized water to obtain a 50% solution and adjust the pH to 4.8 <pH <5.2.

The finished gel is analyzed, pumped into a collection container for storage and transferred to the packaging.

The claimed content of all components in the formulation of the cosmetic product optimally ensures the achievement of the desired effect.

Clinical studies were conducted on 30 female volunteers aged 18-30 years. The subjects were dominated by problem skin with dilated ducts of the sebaceous glands, with rashes of an inflammatory nature, peeling. In the process of research, color, skin turgor, and the number of rashes were visually evaluated. All studies were conducted according to generally accepted methods. As a result, it was found that the test composition did not have a negative effect on the subjects. On the contrary, the gel significantly narrows the pores, relieves redness and irritation, reduces peeling, prevents itching and rashes on the face, the number of rashes in women decreased for 5-7 days, the complexion improved. On day 10, a significant improvement in the skin condition of the subjects was noted: a decrease in redness of the skin as a result of a decrease in inflammation, an increase in the self-sterilizing properties of sebum, and a narrowing of the ducts of the sebaceous glands. At the end of the trial period of 30 days, not a single case of complications was recorded.

The results of the studies showed that the cosmetic product for skin application for 30 days did not have a general toxic, irritating and allergenic effect, is intended for the care of problem skin, and has a softening, protective and anti-inflammatory effect. At the same time, cosmetic gel for problem skin has a soft, delicate texture and is easily and evenly applied to the skin.

Claims (1)

Cosmetic gel for problem skin, consisting of xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, glycerin, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, polyglyceryl-4-laurate / sebacate / polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, fragrance, extract from flowers, leaves of the three-stem , extract from the leaves of aloe, panthenol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, hyaluronic acid, citric acid and water, and the components in the gel are in a certain ratio, wt.%:
Xanthan gum 0.5-1 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.5-1 Glycerol 5-15 Potassium sorbate 0.1-0.6 Sodium benzoate 0.1-0.6 Polyglyceryl-4-Laurate / Sebacate / Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate 0.05-0.15 Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate 0.05-0.15 Perfume 0.02-0.1 Extract from flowers, leaves and stem of a string tripartite 0.01-0.3 Aloe leaf extract 0.05-0.15 Panthenol 1-10 Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.05-0.2 Hyaluronic acid 0.1-1.5 Lemon acid 0.05-0.2 Water rest