RU2466664C1 - Method of manufacturing mandyas for clergy of russian orthodox church - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textiles, paper.

SUBSTANCE: method is intended for manufacture of ritual clothing for clergy of the Russian Orthodox Church, in particular for manufacture of mandyas (robe). The essence of the method is the production of an additional part for mounting the removable stiffener and its junction with the neck-piece of the product in the throat region. Additional part is a separate part of the product, which forms the space - "a pocket" - of two layers of lining to accommodate a stiffener in it with the possibility of its subsequent withdrawal for laundry or dry cleaning. The most effective use of the proposed method is in industrial production with computer-aided design of technology of vestments for clergy of the Russian Orthodox Church.

EFFECT: manufacturing mandyas with removable lining enables to provide ease of operation and keep the form of mandyas at multiple dressing during a long operational lifetime of vestments, and to reduce labour intensity of manufacturing ritual clothing.

12 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, in particular to the manufacture of clothing for clergy, and more particularly to the manufacture of felony.

Phelon - (Greek. Φαιλóνιο), robe - the upper liturgical vestments of an Orthodox priest without sleeves. It symbolizes the scarlet in which the soldiers dressed Jesus Christ during the trial at Pilate. In the Catholic Church, the felony is analogous to fazuli (www / wikipedia.org) (Appendix 1)

The sets of liturgical vestments consist of a number of objects that are canonized by the Russian Orthodox Church. One of the items in the kit is a felon (robe), which is a long, wide, shoulder-shaped product without sleeves with a deep neckline. A feature of liturgical vestments is the use of a special finishing "golden" braid called galloon. Galun in felony is located on the edge of the Jordan (neck), in the shoulder girdle and on the lower edges of the product. According to the requirements of the canons of the Russian Orthodox Church, the upper part of the felon — the mantle — must have a rigid, skeleton-shaped trapezoid. According to the canons, the upper portion of the felon from the back should rise above the shoulders of the clergyman in the form of a truncated triangle (trapezoid) (Appendix 1). The predetermined form of the mantle of the felon is formed through the use of special rigid pads.

Rigid gaskets in the felon's mantle are currently used non-removable, which greatly complicates the process of processing the product and reduces comfort during operation.

A known method of manufacturing felony with the processing of her mantle ((E.V. Kholodnova. Development of industrial methods for making clothing of the clergy of the Russian Orthodox Church: abstract of the dissertation for the academic degree of candidate of technical sciences - M., 2001), which is based on the use of as a fastening of the “Velcro” braid. A feature of this variant of the processing method is that the cavity of the pocket is not formed. The lower cut of the rigid strip is attached with the “Velcro” tape (line “1”, Appendix 2) to the allowance for the hem of the inner lining part (st points "2", Appendix 2).

The disadvantages of this method include the difficulty of processing the neck of the felon, weak fixation of the rigid gasket between the layers of the lining.

The closest analogue to the proposed solution is a method of manufacturing felon with a fixed rigid pad, which is used in ceremonial clothing workshops (E.V. Kholodnova. Development of industrial methods for making clothing of the clergy of the Russian Orthodox Church: abstract of dissertation for the academic degree of candidate of technical sciences . - M., 2001).

This method consists in the following: a piece of a rigid gasket is inserted between the main and lining materials in the area of the mantle and fixed with manual and machine lines along the edge of the neck (line 1, Appendix 3) and in the area of the finishing element called galloon (line 2, Appendix 3) .

The disadvantage of this method is that it is not possible to remove the rigid gasket fixed in this way from the mantle bag for washing or dry cleaning. Long-term operation of a fixed gasket leads to a loss of shape and appearance of the product and, as a result, to a decrease in the service life of the product due to unsuitability in wear.

In addition, the proposed manufacturing method leads to a skew of the lining when it is connected with the product in the neck and at the bottom of the mantle, to the difficulty of moving the layers of materials when adjusting the gallon through the neck due to the significant thickness of the material package, and is also accompanied by significant laboriousness of manufacture and low manufacturability operations due to the high share of manual labor, as well as difficulty in operation.

Removable parts are found in individual garments. For example, removable insulation pads in coats, raincoats, jackets do not require increased rigidity, perform a protective function. The method of connecting insulation gaskets with the product does not provide for their insertion into additional parts specially designed for this purpose.

The technical task is to create a technology for processing mantle felon, providing high performance properties - indicators of the reliability of the clothes in operation. These indicators are determined by such characteristics as: shape stability of parts and edges of clothing and the persistence of the appearance of the product during operation.

To solve the problem in a method of manufacturing felony for clergy, including the preparation of details of the cut of felony, lining and hard laying of the mantle, adjusting the contact tape "Velcro" along the edge of the strip, fastening the main, lining materials and hard laying along the edge of the neck and in the area of the decoration elements , according to the invention, the rigid laying of the mantle is made removable, consisting of two parts of the lining material and a rigid frame made of a package of cushioning mats erialov, the details of the backing material by bonding to form a pocket into which is placed a rigid frame and fix it single stranded chain stitch seam, the removable rigid gasket attached to oplech'ya podkroynoy turnery previously connected in the neck phelonion due stitch sewing on the finishing tape.

The proposed method for the manufacture of felon ensures the fulfillment of the requirements for the operational properties of the product while maintaining its rigidity during dry cleaning and washing, which significantly extends the life of the felon.

In addition, the proposed method of processing the mantle of the felon with a removable gasket reduces the complexity of the process of connecting the lining with the product and the galoon due to the fact that the gasket does not fall into the seams for adjusting the galun; Moreover, the proposed method allows the rigid gasket to be processed as an independent part of the product.

The proposed method is illustrated by the following drawings.

Figure 1 is an additional detail of the mantle;

Figure 2 - the location of the contact tape "Velcro" on the details of the cut lining felon;

Figure 3-11 is a sequence of the method;

On Fig - General view of the finished felon.

The proposed method is implemented as follows.

The manufacture of the product begins with the preparation of the details of the cut of the felon, the lining to it and the rigid laying of the mantle.

The requirements for maintaining increased stiffness of church clothes are implemented in the claimed method of technological processing of the felon's mantle.

The inventive method of technological processing of church vestments - felony ensures the fulfillment of the requirements of operational properties, i.e. preservation of the set stiffness of the product during dry cleaning and washing.

The method of processing the mantle with a removable gasket facilitates the process of connecting the lining with the product and the gallon, because in this case, the gasket does not fall into the seams of tuning the galloon, the neck cut from the main material can be treated with a lining with a wrapping, rather than a fringing seam. With this method of manufacturing the upper part of the felony, the hard mantle of the mantle is treated as an independent part of the product.

Made by the proposed method felon depicted in Fig.12.

Implement the proposed method as follows.

For the manufacture of felon, parts of the material of the top 1, the main lining 2, a removable rigid gasket made as an additional part in the form of a pocket and consisting of two words of the lining 3, 4 with a package of cushioning materials 5, as well as an adhesive web 6, galunas 7, are used. Velcro tape 8, tailoring 9.

The removable rigid gasket of the felon consists of two parts of the lining material and a package of cushioning materials. The details of the lining of the removable mantle after turning form a “pocket” in which the package of cushioning materials is located. The allowances for the processing of slices of both parts of the lining of the removable mantle exceed the contours of the details of the gasket package by 1.0 cm. The allowance for the seam in the middle section of the lining is 1.5-2.0 cm for the subsequent location of the sections of the rigid gasket “butt” inside the “pocket” for the purpose decrease in thickness in the middle feloni suture.

The manufacture of the product begins with the preparation of the details of the cut of the lining 2 of the felon and the lining of the hard mantle of the mantle, which consists in marking and adjusting the contact tape 8 "Velcro".

The location of the contact tape 8 "Velcro" on the lining 2 of the pocket is shown in figure 1. The location of the contact tape 8 "Velcro" on the details of the lining 2 felony shown in figure 2.

The tuning of the contact tape 8 "Velcro" on one of the layers of the lining 2 of the removable rigid strip of the mantle is performed using a universal shuttle stitch machine (line "a", Fig.3).

Preparation of the cut detail of the felony lining consists in tuning the contact tape 8 “Velcro” with the line “B” and the adhesive web 6 with the line “C” (Fig. 4).

The prepared parts of the lining 3, 4 are grinded along all sections from the wrong side with a 1.0 cm wide seam with the formation of a technological hole (line “d”, Fig. 5). The turned part is turned on the front side through the technological hole. A removable rigid gasket 5, consisting of one or more layers, is inserted into the "pocket", and thus a package is created consisting of two lining materials 3, 4 and gasket 5 (Fig.6). The technological hole is built up on a single-strand chain stitch machine (line “e”, Fig. 7). Along the edge of the neck of the package, lay the line "f" of a single-strand chain stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge to secure the gasket 5 in the "pocket" (Fig.7).

Next, the processed middle sections of the lining of the removable mantle are grinded in such a way that inside the package the sections of the gasket are laid back-to-back (line "g", Fig. 8). The seam is ironed and tuned segments of the contact tape "Velcro" (line "h", Fig.8). The proposed method for processing the middle seam of a rigid gasket allows not only to reduce the thickness in the region of the middle seam of the product, but also makes it possible to adjust the length of the neck of the removable gasket in accordance with the neck of the felon, which avoids the appearance of a defect in tightness in this area of the felon.

Galun 7 is tuned to the main part of the felon in the same way as in the traditional method (lines "i" and "k", Fig. 12). Next, fix the lining 2 along the edge of the neck 6 of the main part of the mantle of the main material using the glue web 6, combining them with the wrong sides inward and ironing the lining allowance on the front side of the mantle (Fig. 9). Galun 7 on the neck adjust with the simultaneous fastening of the cut trim 9 line "m" (figure 10). The opposite side of the galun 7 is tuned with the line "n" (figure 10).

A removable rigid strip of the mantle is applied to the cut-off trim 9 fixed along the neck of the felony. The processed edges of the neck of the felon and removable rigid strip of the mantle are located “butt”. Lay the tuning line “p” on the chain stitch machine (11). The semi-finished product is turned on the wrong side and the processed lower edges of the removable mantle are attached to the lining of the product along the perimeter at four points using contact tape 8 "Velcro".

The developed method for connecting a rigid gasket to the product allows you to easily remove the frame part of the mantle from the pocket "by dissolving the stitch of a valuable stitch in case of cleaning and repair of felony (Fig. 12).

The developed method for manufacturing felony due to an additional part for fastening a removable rigid gasket and connecting this part using trim sleeves, a Velcro contact tape eliminates manual fixation of a rigid gasket in the neck area and reduces the laboriousness of felon production when introduced into industrial production, increase convenience, ease of use and quality of processing.

The most effective use of the proposed method in industrial production with the automated design of vestment technology for the clergy of the Russian Orthodox Church.

Claims (1)

A method of manufacturing felony for the clergy of the Russian Orthodox Church, including the preparation of details of the cut of felon, lining and mantle, adjusting the Velcro contact tape along the lower edge of the gasket, fastening the main, lining materials and hard gasket along the edge of the neck and in the area of the location of the finishing elements, the final finish products with a seam with edging from the lining material, fastening on the front side with a finishing braid, characterized in that the mantle is removable, consisting of two parts lining material and a rigid frame made of a package of cushioning materials, while the details of the lining material as a result of fastening form a pocket in which the rigid frame is placed and fixed with a single-stitch chain stitch line, a removable rigid mantle strip is attached to a trim hem pre-connected in the area the neck of the felony due to the line of tuning the finishing tape.

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