RU220015U1 - BEAUTY AND DESCENT DEVICE FOR CLIMBER - Google Patents

Abstract

The utility model relates to climbing equipment and can also be used as rigging equipment. The belay and descent device is designed to belay a climber, ensure high reliability of belay both during descent and ascent of an athlete, as well as loads of various weights. SUBSTANCE: belay-rappel device contains a handle and two cheeks made in the form of flat plates arranged parallel to each other; rotation of the swivel cheek around a common axis, on the sleeve of the common axis with the possibility of rotation, a sleeve with a tongue of a curvilinear shape is installed. At the same time, the claimed belay-rappel device is equipped with a stopper, seven holes are made in the base and rotary cheeks, forming pairs of holes (11, 13) coaxial to each other, while one pair of holes (11) is located at the same level with the common axis, and six pairs of holes (13) are made radial, located in the cheeks at the same distance from the common axis in the radial direction, the handle is L-shaped, consisting of a flat lever and a rod, on the one hand, a sleeve is threaded through the hole of the flat lever of the handle with the possibility of turning it axis, and the outer surface of the flat lever faces the inner surface of the base cheek, and on the other hand, the flat lever is equipped with a boss turned inward between the cheeks and provided with a hole, and the rod is connected to the boss, while the tongue and boss of the handle are made with the possibility of placing counter ends of the rope, the base cheek is connected to the turning cheek by means of a common axis, made in the form of a bolt with a thread at the end, and the common axis, threaded through a pair of holes (4) and a sleeve on which a flat lever of the handle and a sleeve with a tongue are put on, is fixed with a nut in such a way that the sleeve with tongue and the flat lever are free to rotate on the sleeve, and the stopper is threaded into one of the pairs of radial holes (13) of the base and pivot jaws and into the hole of the lever boss. The technical result consists in creating a reliable device with increased functionality and with increased reliability of insurance when moving down or up. 4 w.p. f-ly, 6 ill.

Description

The utility model relates to climbing equipment, it can also be used as rigging equipment. The belay and descender device is designed to belay a climber, ensure high reliability of insurance both during descent and ascent of an athlete, as well as loads of various weights.

The prior art invention "Device for lifting and lowering" patent RU 2 137 519, publ. 09/20/1999, IPC A63B 29/02, A62B 1/14, containing a plate base with a hole for a carabiner and a support heel in the form of a plate with a semi-cylindrical groove on its working surface, a bearing axle fixed to the base, on which a swivel spring-loaded two-arm lever is installed , which increases the reliability of the belay, provides the ability to move in two directions - uphill and downhill, reduces friction and wear of the rope. However, the device, due to the large number of elements, reduces its reliability, in addition, since the rope is bent in two planes, there is a danger of tangling and biting.

The closest technical solution, taken as a prototype, is a utility model "Alpinist's descender", patent RU 186 554 publ. 01/23/2019, IPC A62B 1/06, containing two cheeks made in the form of flat plates with rounded corners located parallel to each other, one of which is base, and the other is rotary relative to a common axis fixed on the base cheek. The base cheek contains a fixed bushing with a hole coinciding with the hole in the rotary cheek. Allows you to ensure the reliability of work when lowering and lifting loads of various weights, however, it is possible to carry out insurance only in the process of moving the athlete along the rock from the bottom up. When descending, it does not provide the possibility of pulling the rope at the required speed when belaying from below.

The technical problem is the creation of a climber's safety and descender device, which ensures high reliability of work during descent and ascent, the possibility of its use also for loads of various weights, as well as the implementation of insurance with a fixed cable in the process of moving the athlete along the rock both up and down, while providing maximum convenience in the use of the device.

The technical result achieved by this device is to create a reliable device with increased functionality and with increased reliability of insurance when moving down or up.

The technical result is ensured due to the fact that the belay-rappel device contains two cheeks and a handle. The cheeks are made in the form of flat plates located in the central part parallel to each other, one of the cheeks is basic, and the other is rotary relative to a common axis, placed in a bushing installed between the cheeks with the possibility of rotation of the rotary cheek around a common axis. In this case, the design of the sleeve limits the distance between the cheeks and at the same time provides a gap for free rotation of the rotary cheek. A sleeve with a tongue of curvilinear shape with the possibility of rotation is installed on the common axle sleeve. The base and pivot cheeks are respectively provided with at least seven holes each, made coaxially to each other. One pair of holes is located at the same level with the common axis, and at least six pairs of radial holes are located in the parallel central part of the cheeks at the same distance from the common axis in the radial direction. What is new is that the handle is L-shaped and consists of a flat lever and a rod. On the one hand, a bushing of the common axis is threaded through the hole of the flat lever of the handle with the possibility of its (handle) rotation, and the outer surface of the flat lever faces the inner surface of the base cheek. On the other hand, the flat lever is provided with a boss turned inward between the cheeks and provided with a hole in which a stopper is installed, and the rod is connected to the boss in its central part. In this case, opposite ends of the rope are placed between the tongue and the boss of the handle. Turning the handle around the bushing of the common axis ensures that the lower end of the rope is threaded between the boss of the flat lever and the base cheek (its lower edge). The distance from the common axis and a pair of holes in the cheeks, located at the same level with it, and the distance from the common axis to each pair of radial holes, provide the estimated clamping force of the rope between the tongue and the boss of the handle. In a particular case, the cheeks are made in the form of flat plates with inner surfaces lowered until their edges touch. In this case, one pair of holes is located at the same level with the common axis and is placed on the bottom of the contacting edges of the base and rotary cheeks. Several executions of the stopper are possible. In particular, the stopper may be provided with a spring and a flag. The stopper is placed in one of the pairs of radial holes of the base and pivot cheeks and in the hole of the lever boss so that the opposite ends of the rope are placed on opposite sides of the tongue. In this case, the lower end of the rope is placed between the boss and the tongue, bending around the boss, and the upper end of the rope is placed around the sleeve of the common axis of the cheeks and is placed on the other side of the tongue. If necessary, the tongue is provided at the end with radial overlays in the form of guides for the rope.

The flat lever of the handle with the boss is provided with a hole coaxial with any pair of radial holes in the cheeks, in which the stopper is installed. Between the outer surface of the flat lever of the handle facing the base cheek, in a particular case, a gasket is inserted to provide a gap between the base cheek and the handle. In particular, a pair of holes located at the same level with a common axis is placed on the bottom of the contacting edges of the base and rotary cheeks. It is also possible that the stopper is provided, in addition to the spring and the flag, with a cable to keep it from falling. The common axle can be made in the form of a clean bolt with a threaded nut, which, after assembly, presses the free axle against the turning jaw or the axle from the side of the bolt head is welded to the base cheek. The sleeve with a curved tongue is made as a single piece, and at the end of the curvilinear tongue, in a particular case, two radial linings are made in the form of guides for the rope.

The design of the device is illustrated by the drawings, which do not cover all versions of the device.

In FIG. 1 - shows a general side view of the assembled device with a carabiner and a rope placed in the device in the working position.

In FIG. 2 - section A-A along a common axis is shown.

In FIG. 3 - section B-B is shown along the stopper inserted into a pair of radial holes.

In FIG. 4 - the handle is shown - side view.

In FIG. 5 - a section of the B-B handle is shown.

In FIG. 6 shows a general side view of the device before placing the rope in it.

The design of the device is as follows.

The base cheek (1) is connected to the rotary cheek (2) by means of a common axle (3), which is made in the form of a clean bolt with a thread at the end. The common axle (3) is threaded through a pair of holes (4), a bushing (5) and fixed with a nut (6) so that the bushing (5) provides the required distance h between the cheeks (1) and (2). Before tightening the nut (6) and putting the pivot jaw (2) on the bushing (5), the flat lever (7) of the handle (8) is put on the bushing (5), then the bushing with tongue (9). The sleeve (5) on the axle (3) is needed so that when clamped with a nut (6), the sleeve with tongue (9) and the flat lever (7) on this sleeve (5) can rotate freely. Clamping with a nut (6) occurs at the end face of the sleeve (5). In a particular case, the axis (3) along the bolt head can be welded to the outer surface of the main cheek (1). It is necessary by turning the flat lever (7) to ensure the passage of the lower end of the rope between the boss (10) of the handle (8) and the lower edge of the base cheek (1) in order to bring the lower edge beyond the tongue (9). In this case, the rotary cheek (2) and the base cheek (1) are also separated due to the fact that a pair of holes (11) located on the same level with the axis (3) are also separated from each other. This makes it possible to put the upper end of the rope between the cheeks (1) and (2), and then, having connected a pair of holes (11) coaxially, insert a carabiner (12) into it, to which the sportsman's safety harness is attached. The harness is a harness system worn by the athlete. After both ends of the rope have taken an opposite position at the point between the tongue (9) and the boss (10) and the radial pairs of holes (13) have aligned along the axes, a stopper (14) is threaded into one of the radial pairs (13), which is subsequently held from falling out with a turned flag, as well as the tension of the rope. Thus, the device is brought into working position.

Thus, to bring the device into working condition, it is required: remove the stopper (14), turn the rotary cheek (2) relative to the base cheek (1), first pass the upper end of the rope into the gap between the cheeks (1) and (2), then turn the handle (8) relative to the common axis (3) releasing the gap between the boss (10) and the lower edge of the base cheek (1) in order to pass the lower end of the rope into the gap. In this case, the rope is laid between the tongue (9) and the boss (10). Then turn the cheeks (1) and (2) until the pair of holes (11) is aligned, insert the carabiner (12) into this pair, then return the handle (8) to the position of pressing the opposite ends of the rope (upper and lower) between the tongue (9) and boss (10), and thread the stopper (14) through one of the selected pairs of radial holes (13). Then the belay device is ready for use. Moreover, it is convenient that the athlete can perform this manipulation anywhere on the rope of the device, provided that this rope is in a free state.

Thus, the implementation of the handle, which has an L-shape in the form of a two-arm lever with different arm lengths, increases the clamping force and the reliability of braking the rope between the tongue (9) and the boss (10), and the guides (not shown in the drawing) facilitate and direct the movement of the rope . Moreover, it should be taken into account that the force distribution triangle between the carabiner (12) - the axis of the pair of holes (11), the main axis (3) and the point of contact of the upper end of the rope with the tongue (9) and the boss (10) is calculated, which ensures, firstly, , the necessary force of the rope clamp depending on the size of the load or the weight of the athlete, secondly, the necessary force on the handle (8) if it is necessary to release the rope clamp or loosen it, and thirdly, the possibility of using a rope of the required thickness without reconfiguring the entire device.

This design is also versatile in the choice of weight, rope thickness and belay direction - when moving down or up, it is a reliable and simple device.

Due to the simplicity and a small number of parts, the reliability of the device is increased, and due to the absence of additional means of grasping, the functionality of the device is increased and it is possible to move in two directions - uphill and downhill.

The device works as follows.

Example 1. Climber's descent.

With the stopper (14) removed from the handle (8), the cheek (2) and the handle (8) are rotated around the axis (3) and the bushing (5) located on the axis (3) of the base cheek (1). The end of the rope, fixed at the top, is inserted between the sleeve (5) of the axle (3) and cheeks (1) and (2) with a hole (11), then the other end of the rope is laid in the space between the cheek (2) and the handle (8) in this way so that the tongue (9) is between the opposite loops of the rope. By turning the cheeks (2) in the opposite direction around the axis (3) until the pair of holes (11) coincides, and also by turning the handle (8) around the axis (3) until the selected pair of radial holes (13) coincides with the hole in the boss (10), fix the selected position of the handle (8) by the stopper (14). The carabiner (12) is installed in a pair of holes (11) and connected to the climber's harness, thereby preparing the belay and descender for work. The weight of the climber is held due to frictional forces in the loops of the bend of the rope, which are enhanced by pressing the tongue (9) of the rope to the boss (10) of the handle (8) through the impact of the (tensioned) end of the rope on the tongue (9). The descent of the climber is carried out by pressing the end of the handle (8) down, which leads to a change in the angle of inclination of the axis (3) and the handle (8) in relation to the vertical position of the rope and, thus, to a decrease in the force of pressing the rope to the handle (8) through the tongue (9) from the fixed end of the rope. The descent speed is controlled by pressing the handle. The cessation of pressing leads to a complete stop and hovering of the climber. When skipping the intended stop point, the descender can be easily moved up the rope without additional manipulations, using it already as a clamp.

Example 2. Execution of insurance from above. In this case, the belaying climber is at the top (for example, on a rock), the belay device is next to him and fixed on the rock, and at the bottom there is an insured climber who is going to climb up, while the lower end of the rope goes to the insured. The belaying climber gradually pulls the rope, taking up the slack on the rope going to the insured. In the event of a possible breakdown of the insured in the process of lifting him up, under the influence of his weight, two loops of the rope are pressed around the axis (3) through the tongue (9) to the handle (8). The climber hangs.

Example 3. Execution of insurance from below. In this case, the rope is clamped without the participation of the insurer, thereby eliminating the human factor. One end of the rope goes through a block-roller fixed at the top of the rock to the climbing athlete, and the other end goes through a belay-rappel device fixed at the bottom to the belayer. When the athlete falls in the belay and descender, the rope is clamped through the tongue (9) to the handle (8). If it is necessary to lower the hung athlete, the belayer, by turning the belay and descender by the handle, loosens the rope clamp, allowing the hung athlete to descend.

The device is convenient to use in mountaineering as a safety device when lifting the victim with an attendant.

Thus, the climber's belay-rappel device, unlike the closest analogue, has higher reliability and ease of operation due to the ability to fix the base of the handle in the coaxial holes of two parallel cheeks, thereby eliminating the use of an additional carabiner randomly moving in the holes, as in the closest analogue.

In addition, as a result, the climber's belay-rappel device provides more reliable operation in the process of moving the athlete on the rock when performing belay both from below and from above.

The climber's belay and descender device can also use ropes in a wide range of diameters (from 6 mm to 16 mm) without additional preparatory actions with the device.

The device is manufacturable and can be manufactured in mass production using mastered technological methods using existing materials and equipment.

The inventive climber's belay-rappel device, unlike the closest analogue, has higher reliability and ease of operation due to the ability to fix the base of the handle in the coaxial holes of two parallel cheeks, thereby eliminating the use of an additional carabiner randomly moving in the holes, as in the closest analogue.

In addition, as a result, the climber's belay-rappel device provides more reliable operation in the process of moving the athlete on the rock when performing belay both from below and from above.

The inventive climber's belay-rappel device can also use ropes in a wide range of diameters (from 6 mm to 16 mm) without additional preparatory actions with the device.

The claimed utility model can be manufactured in mass production using mastered technological methods using existing materials and equipment.

Claims (5)

1. A belay and trigger device containing a handle and two cheeks made in the form of flat plates arranged parallel to each other, one of the cheeks is the base one, and the other is rotary relative to a common axis, placed in a sleeve installed in a pair of holes (4) between cheeks with the possibility of rotation of the rotary cheek around a common axis, on the sleeve of the common axis with the possibility of rotation there is a bushing with a tongue of a curvilinear shape, characterized in that it is equipped with a stopper, seven holes are made in the base and rotary cheeks, forming pairs of holes (11, 13), coaxial to each other, while one pair of holes (11) is located at the same level with the common axis, and six pairs of holes (13) are made radial, located in the cheeks at the same distance from the common axis in the radial direction, the handle is L-shaped, consisting from a flat lever and a rod, on the one hand, a bushing of a common axis is threaded through the hole of the flat lever of the handle with the possibility of turning it, and the outer surface of the flat lever faces the inner surface of the base cheek, and on the other hand, the flat lever is equipped with a boss turned inward between the cheeks and provided hole, and the rod is connected to the boss, while the tongue and boss of the handle are made with the possibility of placing opposite ends of the rope between them, the base cheek is connected to the rotary cheek through a common axis, made in the form of a bolt with a thread at the end, and the common axis, threaded through the pair holes (4) and the bushing, on which the flat lever of the handle and the bushing with the tongue are put on, is fixed with a nut in such a way that the bushing with the tongue and the flat lever can freely rotate on the bushing, and the stopper is threaded into one of the pairs of radial holes (13) base and rotary cheeks and into the hole of the lever boss. 2. The belay and descender device according to claim 1, characterized in that the handle is rotatable around the common axle sleeve to ensure that the lower end of the rope is threaded between the boss of the flat lever and the base cheek. 3. The belay and descender device according to claim 1, characterized in that the common axis is made at a distance to a pair of holes (11) in the cheeks located at the same level with it, and at a distance to each pair of radial holes (13), providing a calculated the clamping force of the rope between the tongue and the boss of the handle. 4. The belay and descender device according to claim 1, characterized in that the stopper is equipped with a spring and a flag and is placed in such a way that the opposite ends of the rope are placed on opposite sides of the tongue, the lower end of the rope is placed between the boss and the tongue, bending around the boss, and the upper end the rope is placed around the sleeve of the common axis of the cheeks. 5. The belay and descender device according to claim 1, characterized in that the tongue is equipped at the end with radial overlays in the form of guides for the rope.