RU2189219C2 - Composition for axillary region - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology. SUBSTANCE: water-free cream composition for axillary region is used for local application on man's skin. It contains, antiperspirant and/or deodorant, clay suspending or thickening agent, 0.5-3 wt. %; nonvolatile masking agent, 5.0-25 wt.%; structuring wax with melting point at least 45 C, 3-20 wt.%; and volatile carrying fluid, 20-90 wt.%. The composition is prepared by mixing at least antiperspirant and/or deodorant, clay, masking agent, carrying fluid and wax at temperature higher the melting point of said wax. EFFECT: improved skin feeling without visible deposition after application. 14 cl, 1 dwg, 1 tbl, 10 ex

Description

 The invention relates to new axillary cream compositions that contain a structuring wax material. More specifically, the invention relates to antiperspirant and deodorant compositions for topical application to human skin containing a structuring wax, clay material and a masking oil.

 Compositions for a local axillary area are known to contain non-volatile silicone fluids, such as polyorganosiloxanes, which impart emollient properties to the composition and can provide a masking effect to mask solids present in the composition. Examples of such solids are antiperspirants. The effectiveness of the composition is not significantly affected by the presence of non-volatile silicone. Such compositions are described in EP 28853 (The Procter & Gamble Company).

 It is also known to include certain categories of alkylsiloxane waxes in axillary compositions. EP 549223 (Dow Corning) describes axillary stick, ball and aerosol formulations containing certain long chain alkyl silicone waxes. It is believed that these waxes give formulations the desired characteristics, such as improved hardness, reduced whitening, improved skin feel, and compatibility with other ingredients.

 Our UK patent application currently pending N 9506039.8 describes the use of siloxane waxes alkyl esters to enhance sensitive properties such as skin sensation, axillary compositions.

 The aforementioned formulations of the prior art describe suspension compositions, which are usually preferable to known emulsion compositions, which have been found to lead to undesirable sensations on the skin, such as a feeling of stickiness and moisture. The suspending agent facilitates the effective suspension of powder materials, such as antiperspirants, with an increase in the efficiency and stability of the composition during storage.

 However, many of the prior art suspending agents, improving skin sensations in some respects (for example, reducing moisture sensation), impart other undesirable sensations to the skin, such as fine grain, and can also lead to visible deposits on the skin and tissues.

 In an attempt to solve this problem, patent EP 135315 (The Mennen Company) describes an antiperspirant product that does not contain clay and contains volatile silicone and a gelling agent. However, the exclusion of a clay suspending agent may result in a product that is still not stable at high temperatures and for a long period of time and which has a reduced viscosity, which is undesirable in cream formulations.

 The aim of the invention is to overcome the disadvantages of the formulations of the prior art.

The invention provides a substantially anhydrous axillary cream composition suitable for topical application to human skin, containing an antiperspirant and / or deodorant, 0.5-3 wt.% Clay suspending or thickening agent, 5.0-25 wt.% Non-volatile masking agent, 3-20 weight. % structuring wax with a melting point of at least 45 ^o C and 20-90 wt.% volatile carrier fluid obtained by mixing at least an antiperspirant and / or deodorant, clay, masking agent, carrier fluid and wax at a temperature above the melting point of this wax .

 Preferably, the axillary cream composition contains 1-2 weight. % clay. Typically, clay is selected from the group consisting of bentonites, smectites, saponites, their reactive variants, and mixtures thereof.

 Preferably, the axillary composition contains 5-15 wt.% Structuring wax, wherein the structuring wax is selected from the group consisting of alkyl methyl siloxane waxes, alkyl ester siloxane waxes, insect and animal waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the alkylmethylsiloxane wax is a wax of general formula I:
R- (SiMe ₂ O-) _x SiMe ₂ R,
in which R- (C ₁₆ -C ₄₀ ) alkyl, X = 10-50 and Me = CH ₃ , and the average chain length of the terminal alkyl is at least C ₃₀ .

Preferably, R- (C ₂₅ -C ₄₀ ) alkyl.

Alternatively, the alkyl ester siloxane wax is a wax of general formula II:
(Me ₃ Si) O (SiMe ₂ O) _a Si (Me) (CH ₂ ) _b -O-COR (SiMe ₃ ),
in which a is an integer from 0 to 2;
b is an integer from 2 to 4;
Me = CH ₃ ;
R is straight or branched alkyl from C ₁₀ H ₂₁ to C ₃₀ H ₆₁ .

Usually R-C ₁₉ H ₃₉ , a = 1 and b = 3.

 Preferably, the non-volatile masking oil is selected from the group consisting of non-volatile silicones and polyolefins or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the polyolefin is polydecene.

 Typically, the volatile carrier fluid is silicone. Preferably, the antiperspirant is an inorganic and / or organic aluminum and zirconium salt or a mixture thereof.

In an alternative embodiment, the invention provides a substantially anhydrous antiperspirant cream composition containing 5-30 wt.% Antiperspirant, 0.5-3 wt.% Clay suspending or thickening agent, 5-25 wt.% Non-volatile masking agent, 3-20 wt.% structuring wax with a melting point of at least 45 ^o C and 20-86.5 wt.% volatile carrier fluid obtained by mixing at least an antiperspirant, masking agent, carrier fluid and clay, and wax at a temperature equal to or above the melting point of this wax.

 Usually, creams are determined by cone penetration values. A typical cream can be described as having a cone penetration value between about 10 and 30 mm if the cone has a diameter of 16.5 mm and a weight of 102.5 g.

 It was unexpectedly found that by combining a structuring wax having certain melting point characteristics with a clay suspending agent and a non-volatile masking agent and subjecting the mixture to shear deformation at a temperature above the melting point, an axillary region composition is obtained that is stable for long periods of time and at high temperatures. However, the composition does not exhibit any undesirable characteristics, such as poor skin sensation and deposition, previously inherent in the compositions for the axillary region containing clay.

 Suitable clays are hectorirs and montmorillonites, including bentonites, smectites, saponites and their reactive variants. A preferred bentonite is Benton 38, available from NL Industries. You can use one clay or a mixture of clays.

 Commonly used antiperspirant salts include inorganic and organic aluminum and zirconium salts and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are aluminum / zirconium salts of aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxyhalides, aluminum zirconium salts and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred antiperspirant salts include activated aluminum hydrochloride compounds as described in EP 6739 (Unilever NV et al.). Other active antiperspirants are described in EP 28853. The contents of both of these applications are included.

 Any effective deodorant composition known in the art is suitable for inclusion in the composition, for example sodium bicarbonate, zinc ricinoleate, other inorganic salts, short chain monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols or compounds such as triclosan. The deodorant may be used alone or together with an antiperspirant active component, if compatible.

Carrier fluid typically contains volatile silicone material. Examples of such materials are cyclic or normal polydimethylsiloxanes. Preferred cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes contain 3-7 silicon atoms and have a viscosity of less than 10 mm ² s ^-1 (cSt) at 25 ^° C. Preferred normal polydimethylsiloxanes contain 3-9 silicon atoms and have a viscosity of less than 5 mm ² s ^-1 (cSt) at 25 ^° C. Preferred polydimethylsiloxanes are available from Dow Corning Corporation as Dow Corning 344 and 345. Preferably, the volatile silicone used in this composition is present at a level of 30-60 wt.%, More preferably 40-60 wt.%.

 A non-volatile masking agent is also present in the formulation and preferably contains a hydrocarbon polymer, such as polyolefins.

Polyolefins are typically hydrocarbon polymers, preferably liquid at room temperature (i.e., 21 ^{° C.} ). It is also a highly preferred property that the polyolefin in the composition has a relatively low viscosity. Preferably, the viscosity of the polyolefin hydrocarbon masking agent is less than about 40 cSt at 40 ^{° C.} , more preferably less than about 30 cSt at 40 ^° C.

 Preferably, the polyolefin is a poly alpha olefin. Preferred poly-alpha olefins used in the compositions of the invention are polydecenes, for example, Silkflo polydecenes manufactured by Albermarle Corporation. Other preferred polyolefins used in the compositions of the invention include polybutene, which is commercially available under the trademark Panalene L14E from Amoco, and polyisobutene, which can be obtained from Prespere under the trademark Permethyl.

 As such, preferred polyolefins for use in the compositions of the invention may have monomer chain lengths of 3-15 carbon atoms. Preferred polyolefin blends that are manufactured by the industry can typically contain a blend of various polymers, including dimers, trimers, etc. Preferred materials for use in the compositions of the invention include Silkflo 362NF, Silkflo 364NF and Silkflo 366NF, available from Albermarle Corporation.

 When used in the compositions according to the invention, the described polyolefin hydrocarbons help to impart surprisingly good sensitive properties to the composition, including a surprising lack of grease after use, and if the composition is an antiperspirant composition, provide an increased degree of masking of any whitening that may be left with an antiperspirant salt from the composition.

 The advantage of using polyolefin hydrocarbons is that they are not found to interfere with the effectiveness of any active antiperspirant salt from the composition to any significant degree.

Non-volatile masking oil, which can act as a softener, can also be non-volatile silicone. The non-volatile silicone may be polyalkylsiloxane, polyalkylsiloxane or a polyester-siloxane copolymer. Preferred polyalkylsiloxanes have viscosities of 10-100000 mm ² s ^-1 (cSt) at 25 ^° C. These siloxanes are available from the Dow Corning Corporation as the Dow Corning 200 series.

Suitable polyalkarylsiloxanes are polymethylphenylsiloxanes with viscosities of 15-65 mm ² s ^-1 (cSt) at 25 ^° C. These siloxanes are available as Dow Corning 556 liquid.

A suitable polyethersiloxane is a dimethylpolyoxyalkylene ether copolymer with an approximate viscosity of 1200-1500 mm ² s ^-1 (cSt) at 25 ^° C, for example, a polysiloxane-ethylene glycol ether copolymer.

Preferred structuring waxes are alkylmethylsiloxanes. Suitable alkylmethylsiloxanes include compounds of formula (I):
R- (SiMe ₂ O-) _x SiMe ₂ R,
where RC ₁₆ -C ₄₀ ,
X-10-50,
Me = CH ₃ .

It has been found that structuring waxes exhibit a significant masking effect in formulations to mask the deposition of active ingredients and suspending agents. Alkylmethylsiloxane wax preferably has a melting point greater than 45 ^o C.

Preferably, alkylmethylsiloxane wax is derived from (C ₁₆ -C ₄₀ ) alkyl groups, more preferably from (C ₂₅ -C ₃₅ ) alkyl groups.

 Typically, such waxes are composed of a mixture of lengths of alkyl chains with the characteristics of the wax and, therefore, its structuring effect will be determined by the mixture of lengths of chains used.

Selected waxes having long terminal alkyl chains are particularly effective in structuring the composition. Hanging C ₃₀ and higher groups and waxes with terminal (C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyls sometimes lead to excessively soft solids, which may not maintain a stable structure when stored in heat, resulting in a very thin composition. Similar difficulties are experienced if the average length of the terminal alkyl chain is below C ₃₀ .

A preferred alkylmethylsiloxane wax is known as GE SF1642 wax, available from the General Electric Company, in which the main alkyl group is C ₃₀ , C ₃₂ and C ₃₄ with a small amount of C ₂₆ and C ₂₈ . The average length of the terminal alkyl chain is at least C ₃₀ .

The structuring wax may also be an alkyl ester of a siloxane wax of the general formula (II):
(Me ₃ Si) O (SiMe ₂ O) _a Si (Me) (CH ₂ ) _b -O-COR (SiMe ₃ ),
in which a is an integer from 0 to 2;
b is an integer from 2 to 4;
Me = CH ₃ ;
R is straight or branched alkyl from C ₁₀ H ₂₁ to C ₃₀ H ₆₁ .

Usually R is normal alkyl C ₁₉ H ₃₉ . In addition, a is usually 1 and b is usually 3.

 The wax used in the compositions of the invention is an alkyl ester silicone wax. Inclusion of this wax in the formulation may give the composition softening properties. Accordingly, it can be obtained without or with a reduced amount of softening materials, such as volatile or non-volatile silicones, which are usually included in such compositions.

A particularly preferred alkyl ester silicone wax for use in the compositions according to the invention is beheno-acid silicone wax, for which the general formula (II) is a = 1 and b = 3 and, in addition, R is C ₁₉ H ₃₉ . Such wax is available from Rhone Poulenc under the trademark Mirasil-B 71649 Wax.

 Other structuring wax materials that can also be used in accordance with the present invention include high and low melting point waxes, gums, resins, polymers, starches and elastomers. High melting point waxes include insect and animal waxes such as beeswax and spermaceti; vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Urikuri, Japanese wax, Douglas bark wax, rice bran wax, castor wax and Pencilwax wax; inorganic waxes such as mountain wax, peat wax, ozokerite and ceresin; petroleum waxes such as paraffin wax; synthetic waxes such as Fischer-Tropsch waxes, polyethylene waxes, chemically modified hydrocarbon waxes and substituted amide waxes. Examples of low melting point waxes include fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides with carbon chains of 3-30 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred low melting point waxes include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and palmitic acid.

Structuring wax may be the only wax or a mixture of the above waxes selected to provide the desired melting point and skin feel characteristics. For example, a mixture of 6% SF1642 and 5% castor wax MP80 is particularly effective and results in a structured wax that undergoes shear at approximately 45 ^° C.

EXAMPLES
Example 1
An anhydrous antiperspirant cream of the following composition is obtained: (see table).

 The cream is prepared using the following four steps.

Stage 1. 10.0% Silkflo 364NF, 45.0% Volatile silicone DC345. Silkflo is added to the volatile silicone, the stirrer is started at half speed and heated to 66 ^° C.

 Stage 2. 1.0% Benton 38, 8.0% talcum Suprafino, 24.0% AZAG powder.

Powders are added and mixed for 5 minutes. After complete addition, the mixture is again heated to 66 ^o C.

 Stage 3. 5.0% castor oil MP80, 6.0% GE wax SF1642.

Waxes are pre-melted at 80 ^o C and then added to the main apparatus with stirring at full speed.

 Stage 4. 1.0% flavor.

Add flavor and mix for 5 minutes at 68-70 ^o C.

 Comparative example.

 The cream of example 1 was obtained without Benton. Benton was replaced with 1% volatile silicone carrier fluid and the cream was obtained in the same manner.

 Comparative data (sensitive).

 20 experts applied 0.1 g of cream to the back of the hands, rubbed for 5 seconds and then gave a tactile assessment of dryness and fat content. 14 out of 20 chose a cream containing Benton as drier (significant difference at> 94% confidence) than a control cream without Benton.

 By fat content 13 out of 20 chose a cream containing Benton as less greasy than the control cream without Benton (significant difference at> 86% confidence).

 The results obtained regarding fat and dryness are summarized in figure 1.

 Comparative data (processing).

In terms of processing benefits, a composition containing Benton was more viscous than a composition without Benton. For example, a composition containing Benton, when processed at 68 ^o C, stirring for 10 minutes and bottling at 55 ^o C gave a composition with a viscosity of 235000-240000 cP.

 The identical composition without Benton had a viscosity of 220,000 cP.

In addition, if the product was processed and bottled at 68 ^° C and mixed for 10 minutes, then the composition containing Benton had a viscosity of 472,000 cP, while the composition without Benton had a viscosity of 360,000 cP.

 Example 2

 An anhydrous antiperspirant cream having the following composition was prepared as described in Example 1.

Ingredient - wt.%
AZAG (powder) - 24.0
Castor wax MP80 - 5.0
GE SF1642 - 6.0
Benton - 1.0
Flying Silicone - 43.0
Silkflo 364NF - 14.0
Talc - 6.0
Flavoring - 1.0
Rheology
The rheology of the formulation of Example 2 was checked to show the stability characteristics of the composition during processing at various temperatures.

The Carri-Med Controlled Stress Rheometer CSL100 (adjustable force rheometer) and a blade-cylinder measuring system with an internal mesh installed in the cylinder were used to prevent sliding against the wall. The experiments were carried out at 25 ^o C, unless otherwise specified temperature. Equilibrium yield tests were performed on fresh samples to obtain accurate sample yield properties. Before the measurement, the sample was allowed to come to an equilibrium state at a fixed temperature (25 ^° C) for an hour to ensure that there was no temperature gradient.

 The data obtained led to an equilibrium viscosity figure (Pa • s), which occurs at a low shear stress, with a point at which the sample catastrophically fails. The lower the equilibrium viscosity figure, the more unstable the sample.

results
FIG. 2 shows the rheological properties of the composition of Example 2 during processing at 29, 45, and 60 ^° C. As shown in FIG. 2, low temperatures do not lead to a stable, structured product. Figures of low equilibrium viscosity usually indicate that a carrier fluid will leak in the product.

As shown in figure 2, the use of the composition of example 2 when processing at 29 ^o C led to the formation of an unstable composition, while the samples processed at 45 and 60 ^o C were significantly more stable and, therefore, less disposed to carrier leakage .

 The following examples describe the compositions obtained according to the method described in example 1, which uses a variety of waxes, clays and softeners.

 Example 3

Ingredient - wt.%
Complex aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine - 25.0
Benton 38 ⁽¹⁾ - 2.0
Trihydroxystearin 6.0
Isopropyl palmitate - 11.0
Cyclomethicone DC 345 - 60.0
Polyethylene - 6.0
⁽¹⁾ Smectite mineral clay with a lattice containing organic cations, manufactured by Steetley / NL Industries
Example 4

Ingredient - wt.%
Complex aluminum-zirconium octachlorohydrex-glycine - 22.0
Montmorillonite clay Perchem 462 (from Percham) - 1.25
Cyclomethicone DC245 - 40.10
Behenylated Beeswax (by Koster Keunen) - 6.00
Mirasil B (from Rhone Poulenc) - 2.00
Polyethylene - 6.65
Polybutene Panalane L-14E (Amoco) - 22.0
Example 5

Ingredient - wt.%
Complex aluminum-zirconium pentachlorohydrex-glycine - 25.0
Gel Benton IPM ⁽²⁾ - 3.0
Hydrogenated Castor Oil Cerit SH (Ceralit) - 4,5
Finsolv TN (Benzoate (C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ ) alcohols from Finetex) - 18.0
Flying Silicone DC244 - 44.5
Talc - 5.0
⁽²⁾ Organically modified clay smectite, gelled in isopropyl myristate, manufactured by Steetley / NL Industries
Example b.

Ingredient - wt.%
Complex aluminum-zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine - 18.0
Gel Benton SIL ⁽³⁾ - 3.0
Dimethicone DC200, liquid 350cs - 25.0
Candelilla Wax - 7.0
Wax (C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ ) alkyldimethicone - 3.5
Flying Silicone DC 344 - 43.5
⁽³⁾ Organically modified clay smectite, gelled in silicone, manufactured by Steetley / NL Industries
Example 7

Ingredient - wt.%
Complex aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine - 15.0
Wax Ozokerite - 8.0
Isopropyl myristate - 20.0
Cyclomethicone DC345 - 50.0
Veegum D ⁽⁴⁾ - 1.0
Talc - 6.0
⁽⁴⁾ Refined clay smectite, manufacturer RT Vanderbilt
Example 8

Ingredient - wt.%
Complex aluminum-zirconium pentachlorohydrex-glycine - 26.0
Benton EW ⁽⁵⁾ - 2.5
Thixcin R ⁽⁶⁾ - 4.5
Cyclomethicone - 52.5
Dimethicone DC200, liquid 100 cs - 5.0
C ₃₀ + Alkyldimethicone - 6.5
Polyethylene - 3.0
⁽⁵⁾ Steetley Smectite Powder Clay
⁽⁶⁾ Hydrogenated Caste Oil from Rheox
Example 9

Ingredient - wt.%
Ultrafine Aluminum Hydrochloride Powder - 25.0
Hectabrite AW Montomorillonite (from Averican Colloid) - 0.8
Stearyl alcohol - 7.0
Cetyl alcohol - 3.0
C ₃₀ + Alkyldimethicone - 1.5
Cyclomethicone - 58.9
Dry Flo - 3.0
Fragrance - 0.8
Example 10

Ingredient - wt.%
Complex aluminum-zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine - 25.0
Benton 38 (Steetley / NL Industries) - 1.0
Castor wax MP80 ⁽⁷⁾ - 6.5
Waxenol 822 ⁽⁸⁾ (Waxenol 822) - 1.0
Diisopropyl Dilinoleate (Pripure 3786 DIPD) - 7.0
Cyclomethicone - 59.5
⁽⁷⁾ Hydrogenated Castor Oil
⁽⁸⁾ Eicosanol Behenate from CaschemC

Claims (14)

1. Essentially anhydrous axillary cream composition suitable for topical application to human skin, containing an antiperspirant and / or deodorant, 0.5-3 weight. % clay suspending or thickening agent, 5.0-25 weight. % non-volatile masking agent, 3-20 weight. % structuring wax selected from the group consisting of alkylmethylsiloxane waxes and alkyl ether siloxane waxes with a melting point of at least 45 ^° C and 20-90% volatile carrier fluid obtained by mixing at least an antiperspirant and / or deodorant, clay, masking agent carrier fluid and wax at a temperature above the melting point of the specified wax.  2. The composition for the axillary region according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains 1-2 weight. % clay.  3. The composition for the axillary region according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the clay is selected from the group consisting of bentonites, smectites, saponites, their reactive variants and mixtures thereof.  4. The composition for the axillary region according to any one of paragraphs. 1-3, characterized in that it contains 5-15 weight. % structuring wax.  5. The composition for the axillary region according to any one of paragraphs. 1-4, characterized in that it further comprises a wax selected from insect and animal waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides and mixtures thereof. 6. Composition for the axillary region according to claim 5, characterized in that the alkylmethylsiloxane wax is a wax of general formula I
R- (SiMe ₂ O-) _x SiMe ₂ R,
in which R is (C ₁₆ -C ₄₀ ) alkyl; x = 10-50; Me = CH ₃ and the average length of the terminal alkyl chain is at least C ₃₀ . 7. Composition for the axillary region according to claim 6, characterized in that R is (C ₂₅ -C ₄₀ ) alkyl. 8. Composition for the axillary region according to claim 5, characterized in that the alkyl ether siloxane wax is a wax of general formula II
(Me ₃ Si) O (SiMe ₂ O) _a Si (Me) (CH ₂ ) _b -O-COR (SiMe ₃ ),
in which a is an integer from 0 to 2;
b is an integer from 2 to 4;
Me - CH ₃ ;
R is straight or branched alkyl from C ₁₀ H ₂₁ to C ₃₀ H ₆₁ . 9. The composition in the axillary region according to claim 8, characterized in that R is C ₁₉ H ₃₉ , a = 1 and b = 3.  10. The composition for the axillary region according to any one of paragraphs. 1-9, characterized in that the non-volatile masking oil is selected from the group consisting of non-volatile silicones and polyolefins or mixtures thereof.  11. The axillary composition of claim 10, wherein the polyolefin is polydecene.  12. The composition for the axillary region according to any one of paragraphs. 1-11, characterized in that the volatile carrier fluid is volatile silicone.  13. The composition for the axillary region according to any one of paragraphs. 1-12, characterized in that the antiperspirant is an inorganic and / or organic salt of aluminum and zirconium, or a mixture thereof. 14. Essentially anhydrous antiperspirant cream composition containing 5-30 weight. % antiperspirant, 0.5-3 weight. % clay suspending or thickening agent, 5-25 weight. % non-volatile masking agent, 3-20 weight. % structuring wax selected from the group consisting of alkylmethylsiloxane waxes and alkyl ether siloxane waxes with a melting point of at least 45 ^{° C.} and 20-86.5% volatile carrier fluid obtained by mixing at least an antiperspirant, a masking agent, carrier fluid and clay and wax at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the specified wax.

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