RU2040290C1 - Alpinist group rescue method - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: sports; mountaineering. SUBSTANCE: method involves throwing a self-guard rope from helicopter to the place where the group is located. A load is tied to one end of the rope. The middle portion of the rope is fixed close to the place of the group location to form a double rope. One of the members of the group goes down along the rope using swivel. He is to carry the rope away from the relief and from another rope, to fix the rope with the load and to use the free rope to brake lightly the descent movement of some members of the group. Delivery and suspension of the ropes takes 2 h, the descent way takes not more than 1 h. EFFECT: accelerated operation in rescuing an alpinist group. 3 dwg

Description

 The invention relates to saving lives, in particular, climbers.

 There is a known method of rescuing a climbing group, which consists in feeding from the top to the location of the group a safety rope with cargo at the end and evacuating the members of the group from the location using this rope and carbines.

 Its disadvantage is the need for descent from a helicopter with a rope of at least one lifeguard.

 The purpose of the invention is the creation of conditions for the group to leave the route in a short time.

 To do this, in the method of rescuing the climbing group, which consists in feeding from the top to the location of the group a safety rope with a load at the end and evacuating the group members from the location using this rope and carbines, mainly the middle part of the rope is fixed at the location of the group with the formation of a double rope, they organize a descent along the double rope of one of the group members to the beginning of the route and with it, fix the rope with the load with a guy from the terrain, and the second rope is laid to the side under an acute angle to the first and slow it down while lowering the remaining members of the group along a double rope.

 In FIG. 1 shows a route, side view; in FIG. 2 is a view along arrow A in FIG. 1; in FIG. 3 circuit descent.

 Climbing conditions are as follows.

 The route (the main part, which determines the category of climbing) is laid between levels aa and bb. The alpine method of climbing is considered when the group does not hang ropes along the entire route and does not organize intermediate camps. This method of climbing is used throughout the mountain Caucasus and almost everywhere in the Pamirs and the Tien Shan. A sports group of 4-6 people in region I suffered an accident: an injury, long-term bad weather, during which the group sat out on the route, used food and was not able to move due to physical condition, frostbite. The most common cases are listed. Characteristically, one group is not able to move either up or down (for example, ≈ 500 m of the wall has been covered and at least ≈15 runs on a rope are required, and this takes ≈ 20 hours).

 The group reported on the radio about the emergency condition.

 The proposed method is as follows.

Helicopter 1 drops the main rope 2 with cargo 3 to the beginning of the route to level aa. Next, the helicopter moves in the direction of the arrows K and K ₁ until the rope is placed in zone I, where the group is located.

 The remnants of rope 2 are dumped to the top at level bb and are held due to friction at the top.

 Further, two cases are possible: the group immediately grabbed the rope in zone I; if visibility is insufficient, then the second rope is dropped.

 In the first case, the middle part of the rope is attached and the upper part is pulled into zone I.

 In the second case, either everything is done as in the first case with one rope, or both ropes are attached without pulling.

 Of course, two ropes are more reliable, since restraining the top of the rope can be difficult due to the possibility of jamming.

 The first most experienced member of the group descends on a carbine and on a double rope. He places the ropes as shown in FIG. 3. Both ropes pulls away from the route (see. Fig. 1, dash-dot). One rope with a load of 3 fastens to the terrain, and the other 4 leads to the side at an acute angle to the first. Ropes do not have to be stretched on purpose, only by their own weight.

 The next member of the group puts on a slippery carbine on both ropes (shown in Fig. 3) and descends under its own weight, and the first participant pulls the rope 4 to the side and performs the braking, adjusting the speed of descent.

 After the descent of the whole group, the rope can be thrown off if it was attached to a loop.

 This method of descent with a sliding carabiner and divorced ropes allows you to smoothly lower the participant with any injury without an accompanying carabiner.

 Approximate parameters: the route is no more than 1 km, two bays of the rope will weigh 75x2 kg (main, dry, diameter 12 mm). Weight ≈ 50 kg to reduce windage and provide tension.

 Organization of the descent and the descent itself will take no more than 1 hour, delivery and hanging ropes ≈2 hours.

Claims (1)

 METHOD OF RESCUE OF THE CLIMBING GROUP, which consists in feeding from the top to the location of the group a safety rope with cargo at the end and evacuating the group members from the location using this rope and carbines, characterized in that the middle part of the safety rope is mainly fixed at the location of the group with the formation of a double ropes, organize the descent along the double rope of one of the group members to the beginning of the route and with it, fix the rope with the load with a guy from the terrain, and the second rope they take away from the side at an acute angle to the first and slow it down while lowering the remaining members of the group in a double rope.

Images