NZ614244B2 - Composition comprising banyan tree, lotus, and clover serum fractions (aging) - Google Patents
Composition comprising banyan tree, lotus, and clover serum fractions (aging) Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- NZ614244B2 NZ614244B2 NZ614244A NZ61424412A NZ614244B2 NZ 614244 B2 NZ614244 B2 NZ 614244B2 NZ 614244 A NZ614244 A NZ 614244A NZ 61424412 A NZ61424412 A NZ 61424412A NZ 614244 B2 NZ614244 B2 NZ 614244B2
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- NZ
- New Zealand
- Prior art keywords
- serum fraction
- skin
- lotus
- composition
- clover
- Prior art date
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- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Abstract
Disclosed are anti-ageing compositions comprising banyan tree (Ficus Benghalensis), lotus (Nelumbo Nucifera), and clover (Trifolium Pratense) serum fractions. Further disclosed are methods of improving the appearance of aging skin comprises the step of applying a composition having an effective amount of banyan tree serum fraction, lotus serum fraction, and clover serum fraction to a sign of aging on a skin surface, wherein the composition is applied for a period of time sufficient to improve the appearance of the aging skin wherein claudin-1 and aquaporin-3 are upregulated and the moisture and barrier function of human epidermis is increased. nt of banyan tree serum fraction, lotus serum fraction, and clover serum fraction to a sign of aging on a skin surface, wherein the composition is applied for a period of time sufficient to improve the appearance of the aging skin wherein claudin-1 and aquaporin-3 are upregulated and the moisture and barrier function of human epidermis is increased.
Description
PCT/U82012/025910
COMPOSITION COMPRISING BANYAN TREE,
LOTUS, AND CLOVER SERUM FRACTIONS
(AGING)
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The t ion relates to compositions comprising banyan tree, lotus, and
clover serum fractions. The present invention also relates to methods for ing the
appearance of aging mammalian skin using a composition comprising banyan tree, lotus, and
clover serum fractions.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin, comprises a ar continuum of four
layers: the stratum corneum, the granular layer, the s layer, and the basal layer. Each
cellular layer in the epidermis represents various stages along a process in which basal
epidermal keratinocytes undergo a continuous cycle of proliferation, differentiation, and
apoptosis, moving upward from the basal layer to finally yield corneocytes. These
corneocytes form the cornified layer known as the stratum comeum.
Basal keratinocytes reside at the lower portion of the epidermis. These mitotically
active cells undergo a proliferative cycle to generate er cells that are physically
dislocated upward into the spinous and granular layers and undergo the process of
differentiation into corneocytes. On passing through the spinous and granular layers, the
cells undergo morphological changes that render them flatter in structure as they lose their
cellular viability, undergo alternate keratin expression profiles, and transform into cellular
ts. On average, a younger-aged epidermis turns over in about one month, shedding
the older cells and ing them with newer ones, but this process can increase to over forty
days in older skin.
The stratum corneum’s comeocytes remain connected to one other via proteins and
lipids, creating a protective barrier between the organism and its outside environment. This
y ted epidermal permeability barrier ons as a physical and selective barrier
against chemical and biological insults. Important ons of this barrier include
attenuation of the penetration of free radicals and prevention of penetration of harmful
radiation, including UV ion, into deeper layers. The stratum corneum also acts as a
permeability barrier and functions to prevent loss of body moisture to the outside
environment. Dysfunction of this r can lead to chronic skin conditions, es, and in extreme
cases can even en the viability of the organism.
Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic (chronological aging) and
extrinsic (environmental) factors, ing ultraviolet (UV) exposure, environmental toxins,
pollutants, and smoking. It is well known in the art that the ability of the stratum corneum to
cyclically generate new layers of skin diminishes with age so that the m corneum turnover rate is
substantially reduced in aged skin, with the cornified layer ng lly thinner. This results
in a reduction in the functioning capacity of the barrier so that harmful stimuli penetrate the stratum
corneum more easily, leading to UV-damage, for example, of the underlying dermal layers,
degradation of collagen and elastin, and eventually manifests in appearance as wrinkling and skin
atrophy. ng of the stratum corneum by the sum of intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors increases
the e appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Further, the barrier suffers from an age-related
increase in permeability to free radicals and a reduction in the amount of lipid in the intercellular
matrix, decreasing barrier capacity to diffiise toxins from deeper layers. Recovery capacity of the
barrier to environmental insult is also substantially d with age.
Thus, the skin’s barrier function is key to the skin’s ability to regenerate and protect itself
from the appearance of aging skin. Accordingly, it would be desirable to provide compositions and
methods of treatment that can improve the skin’s barrier function and also improve the appearance of
aging skin.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions comprising banyan tree, lotus, and clover
serum fractions and mixtures and/or combinations thereof. In one ment, the t invention
provides use of a serum fraction blend in formulating topically applied skin compositions, said blend
comprising banyan tree serum fraction, lotus serum fraction and clover serum fraction to increase the
moisture and barrier function of human epidermis, as evidenced by the statistically significant up—
regulation of claudin-l and aquaporin-3 in said human epidermis.
Also provided in another aspect is a process to increase the moisture and barrier on of
human epidermis, as evidenced by the statistically significant up-regulation of claudin-l and
aquaporin-3 in said human epidermis, by topically applying a skin care composition comprising a
blend of banyan tree serum fraction, lotus serum fraction and clover serum fraction.
A method of improving the appearance of aging skin comprising the step of applying a first
composition comprising an effective amount of banyan tree serum fraction, lotus serum fraction, and
clover serum fraction blend to an area of aging skin, wherein the ition is applied for a period
of time ent to improve the ance of the aging skin. In certain embodiments the
composition also comprises a dermatologically acceptable carrier.
PCT/U82012/025910
In some embodiments the area of aging skin is aging facial skin. In particular
embodiments, ing the appearance of aging skin comprises improving the appearance
of wrinkles, fine lines, coarse deep lines, crevices, bumps, large pores; thickening of
keratinous tissue (e.g., building the mis and/or dermis and/or sub-dermal layers of the
skin); increasing the convolution of the dermal-epidermal border (also known as the rete
ridges); skin ning; preventing loss of skin elasticity, for example, due to loss, damage
and/or inactivation of functional skin elastin, resulting in such conditions as elastosis,
sagging, loss of skin recoil from deformation; change in coloration to the skin, for example,
under-eye circles, blotchiness (e.g., uneven red coloration due to, for example, rosacea),
sallowness, discoloration caused by hyperpigmentation, etc.; and combinations thereof.
In response to the problems identified in the background, the present invention may
take other forms. Further forms of the t invention will be appreciated in the detailed
description that follows.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
It is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following
description taken in conjunction with the accompanying gs. The nced drawings
are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
Fig. 1 is a bar graph g the up—regulation of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and claudin—l
when banyan tree, clover, and lotus serum fractions are evaluated separately and as a blend in
a keratinocyte assay.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total ition and all
measurements made are at 25°C, unless otherwise designated. All numeric ranges are
inclusive of narrower ranges; delineated upper and lower range limits are hangeable to
create further ranges not explicitly delineated.
The itions of the present invention can comprise, t essentially of, or
consist of, the essential components as well as optional ingredients described herein. As used
herein, “consisting essentially of” means that the composition or component may include
additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic
and novel characteristics of the claimed itions or methods.
The term “apply” or “application” as used in reference to a composition, means to
apply or spread the itions of the present invention onto a human skin surface such as
the epidermis.
The term “dermatologically acceptable” as used herein means that the compositions
or components described are suitable for use in contact with human skin tissue without undue
toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.
The term “effective amount” as used herein means an amount of a compound or
composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive appearance and/or feel benefit, but
low enough to avoid serious side effects (i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio,
within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled artisan). As used herein, tive
amount” in relation to the banyan tree, lotus, and clover blend means an amount of the three
materials in combination sufficient to significantly induce a positive appearance and/or feel
, but low enough to avoid serious side effects (i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to
risk ratio, within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled artisan).
The term “post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation” as used herein refers to an acute to
c increase in pigmentation as a response to a transient inflammatory event. Post-
inflammatory hyperpigmentation is ularly prevalent in, but not limited to, dark skin
subjects. Post-inflammatory igmentation typically subsides once the ent
inflammatory event dissipates. Examples of transient inflammatory events include, but are
not limited to, acne lesions, ingrown hairs, scratches, insect bites, surfactant damage, and
short-term UV exposure.
The term “hyperpigmented spot” as used herein refers to a defined area of skin
wherein the pigmentation is greater than that of an adjacent area of skin due to localized and
c or systemic overproduction of melanin. Hyperpigmented spots typically are between
about 2 mm and about 10 mm in diameter but smaller or larger spots are possible.
Hyperpigmented spots can include one or more of age spots, sun spots, solar lentigos, hypo-
melanotic lesions, freckles, and a spots.
The term “age spots” as used herein refers to a aging spot wherein the pigmentation is
due to localized and chronic overproduction of melanin caused by intrinsic or sic aging
factors.
The term “skin tone agent” as used herein refers to an agent that regulates melanin
production signals, synthesis of melanin, systemic transfer of melanin between the
cyte and the keratinocyte, and/or n degradation. Skin tone agents can improve
WO 15947 PCT/U82012/025910
the appearance of uneven skin tone by acting as a lightening or pigmentation reduction
cosmetic agent.
The term “skin tone” as used herein refers to the overall appearance of n in the
skin caused by the systemic, rather than transient, synthesis of melanin. Skin tone is typically
characterized over a larger area of the skin. The area ideally may be than 100 m2, but larger
areas are envisioned such as the entirety of the facial skin or any of the facial skin surfaces.
Skin tone can be measured by image analysis. For example, overall lightness can be
measured by L"< coordinate in L*a*b* color space (International Commission on
Illumination). Chromophore mapping such as melanin mapping and melanin concentration
may be used as an indicator of overall skin tone. Mean melanin may be calculated from the
phore map data. Additionally, skin tone evenness can be determined by n
evenness which also may be calculated from the Chromophore map data. Suitable
Chromophore mapping techniques are discussed in the example below.
The term “facial skin surface” as used herein refers to one or more of ad,
periorbital, cheek, perioral, chin, and nose skin surfaces.
“Skin care s,” or “actives,” as used herein, means compounds that, when applied
to the skin, provide a benefit or ement to the skin.
“Improving the appearance of aging skin” means ing a visually and/or tactilely
perceptible positive , or benefit, in skin appearance and/or feel. As used herein,
“improving the appearance of aging skin” also includes preventing or ng the
appearance of aging skin. Benefits that may be provided include, but are not limited to, one
or more of the following: Reducing the appearance of wrinkles and coarse deep lines, fine
lines, crevices, bumps, and large pores; thickening of keratinous tissue (e.g., building the
epidermis and/or dermis and/or sub-dermal layers of the skin); increasing the convolution of
the dermal-epidermal border (also known as the rete ridges); skin lightening; preventing loss
of skin elasticity, for example, due to loss, damage and/or inactivation of fianctional skin
elastin, resulting in such conditions as elastosis, sagging, loss of skin recoil from
deformation; change in coloration to the skin, for e, under—eye circles, blotchiness
(e.g., uneven red coloration due to, for e, rosacea), sallowness, discoloration caused
by hyperpigmentation, etc.
“Signs of skin aging,” as used herein, include but are not limited to, all outward
y and tactilely perceptible manifestations, as well as any macro— or microeffects, due to
skin aging. These signs may result from processes which include, but are not limited to, the
PCT/U82012/025910
development of textural discontinuities such as wrinkles and coarse deep wrinkles, fine lines,
skin lines, crevices, bumps, large pores, unevenness or roughness; loss of skin elasticity;
discoloration (including undereye circles); blotchiness; sallowness; hyperpigmented skin
regions such as age spots and freckles; keratoses; abnormal entiation;
eratinization; sis; collagen breakdown, and other histological changes in the
stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis, vascular system (e.g., telangiectasia or spider vessels),
and underlying tissues (e.g., fat and/or muscle), especially those proximate to the skin.
“Hyperpigmentation,” as used herein, refers to an area of skin wherein the
pigmentation is greater than that of an adjacent area of skin (e.g., a pigment spot, an age spot,
and the like).
“Desquamation, exfoliation, and/or turnover,” as used herein, mean the removal of the
upper layers of the stratum corneum (comprising the horny layers).
“Sallowness,” as used herein means the pale color, yellow color or the like ion
of skin that occurs as a result of a loss of, damage to, tions to, and/or abnormalities in
skin components such that they become colored (e.g., yellow in color) due to processes such
as protein glycation and accumulation of lipofuscin or in the decrease in peripheral blood
flow that typically anies skin aging.
As used herein, “exogenous solven ” means any solvent that is not ntly present
in the plant material, but is placed in contact with the plant material for the e of
separating (e.g., extracting) compounds from the plant material.
I. Compositions
The present invention s to various compositions and, more specifically, to
compositions for ation to a skin surface. The compositions may be in a wide variety of
product forms that include, but are not limited to, solutions, suspensions, s, creams,
gels, toners, sticks, pencil, sprays, aerosols, nts, cleansing liquid washes and solid bars,
shampoos and hair conditioners, pastes, foams, powders, mousses, shaving creams, wipes,
strips, patches, electrically-powered patches, wound dressing and adhesive bandages,
hydrogels, film-forming products, facial and skin masks (with and without insoluble sheet),
make-up such as foundations, eye liners, and eye s, and the like. The composition
form may follow from the particular dermatologically acceptable carrier chosen, if present in
the composition.
PCT/U82012/025910
A. Serum Fractions
Compositions of the present invention comprise effective amounts of banyan tree
serum fraction, lotus serum fraction, and clover serum fraction.
Banyan tree, lotus, and clover serum fractions consist essentially of the flower, leaf,
and stem serum ons obtained from Ficus Benghalensis, Nelumbo Nucz’fera, and
Trz'folz'um Pratense, respectively. Preferred serum fractions herein are produced by Akzo
Nobel Surface Chemistry LLC of Ossining, New York, USA, under the trade names Ficus
Bengalensis Enriched Serum FractionTM (TNCI Name: Ficus Indica Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice),
Lotus Enriched Serum FractionTM (INCI Name: Nelumbo Nucz’fem /Leaf/Stem Juice),
and Red Clover Enriched Serum FractionTM (INCI Name: Trz'folz'um Pratense (Clover)
Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice).
In some embodiments, the ition may comprise banyan tree serum fraction in
an amount of from 0.001% to 15%, alternatively from 0.002% to 10%, alternately from
0.025% to 10%, in other embodiments from 0.05% to 10%, in others from 0.05% to 5%, and
in others from 0.1% to 5%, by weight of the total ition. The composition may
comprise lotus serum on in an amount of from 0.001% to 15%, alternatively from
0.002% to 10%, alternatively from 0.01% to 15%, alternately from 0.025% to 10%, in other
embodiments from 0.05% to 10%, in others from 0.05% to 5%, and in others from 0.1% to
%, by weight of the total composition. The ition may comprise clover serum
fraction in an amount of from 0.001% to 15%, alternatively from 0.002% to 10%,
alternatively from 0.01% to 15%, alternately from 0.025% to 10%, in other embodiments
from 0.05% to 10%, in others from 0.05% to 5%, and in others from 0.1% to 5%, by weight
of the total composition.
The method for making a serum fraction comprises the steps of: (a) separating cell
juice from clean, fresh, un—wilted plant matter to obtain fresh cell juice, wherein no
ous liquid is added prior or during said separating; (b) filtering said fresh cell juice to
obtain fiber-free cell juice; and (c) fractionating said fiber-free cell juice to obtain the serum
fraction for use herein. Suitable serum fraction preparation methods are set forth in US.
Patent No. 7,442,391, “Bioactive Botanical Cosmetic Compositions and Processes for their
tion,” to Koganov, and in co-pending US. Provisional Application Serial No.
61/381,748, filed 10 September 2010 by Swanson et al., the disclosures of which are hereby
incorporated by reference herein.
The resulting serum fractions have superior bioactivity versus traditionally prepared
plant extracts. Unlike traditional extracts, the serum fraction is prepared from fresh plant cell
juice that has been ically separated from the rest of the fresh plant material.
Importantly, no exogenous solvent (e.g., water, hexane, acetone, ethanol) is added during the
juice separation process. The ing cell juice contains the full spectrum of compounds
found in fresh plant , thus the resulting serum fractions contain a much broader range
of active compounds than do traditional plant extracts, which contain only the narrow range
of compounds that can be separated with a particular solvent.
Furthermore, using fresh plants maintains the integrity of the ive components
inherently present in the fresh plant matter. Traditional plant ts are not prepared from
fresh plant matter, but rather from dried plant material, which has undergone degradation due
to dehydration. During dehydration, the cell walls are compromised, causing the ation
of nds through mechanisms such as hydrolysis, oxidation, polymerization, Maillard
reactions, and isomerization. When the dried leaves are extracted, the resulting extract thus
contains these ation products that were not originally present in the fresh plant matter.
Accordingly, the composition of the resulting dry leaf extract greatly differs from that of
fresh juice and the resulting serum on.
B. Skin Tone Agent
In some embodiments, it may be desirable to include a skin tone agent in the
composition. The skin tone agents can be included to further improve overall skin tone.
When present, the compositions of the present invention n up to about 50%, 40%, 30%,
%, 10%, 5%, or 3%, by weight of the composition, of the skin tone agent. When present,
the itions of the present invention contain at least about 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.1%, 0.2%,
0.5%, or 1%, by weight of the composition, of the skin tone agent. Suitable ranges include
any combination of the lower and upper limits including suitable ranges from about 0.1% to
about 50%; from about 0.2% to about 20%; or from about 1% to about 10%, by weight of the
composition, of the skin tone agent. The amounts listed herein are only to be used as a guide,
as the optimum amount of the skin tone agent will depend on the specific active selected
since their potency does vary erably.
Suitable skin tone agents include, but are not limited to, sugar amines, vitamin B3
compounds, arbutin, rbutin, l,3-dihydroxy—4-alkylbenzene such as hexylresorcinol,
sucrose dilaurante, bakuchoil (4-[(1E, SS)—3~ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl ~ 1,6 octadienyl] phenol or
2012/025910
monterpene phenol), pyrenoine (available from h , France), panicum miliaceum
seed extract, arlatone dioic acid, cinnamic acid, ferulic acid, achromaxyl, methyl
nicotinamide, oil soluble licorice extract, folic acid, undecylenic acid (i.e., undecenoic acid),
zinc undecylenate, thiamine (Vitamin B1) and its hloride, tophan, helianthus
annuus ower) and vitis Vinifera ) leaf extract, carnosine (i.e., dragosine), methyl
gentisate, 1,2-hexandiol and l,2-0ctandiol (i.e., combination sold as Symdiol 68 by Symrise
AG, Germany), inositol, decylenoylphenylalanine (e.g., sold under the tradename Sepiwhite
by , France), kojic acid, hexamidine compounds, salicylic acid, and retinoids including
retinol and retinyl propionate.
In certain ments, the additional skin tone agent is selected from vitamin B3
compounds, sugar amines, hexamidine compounds, salicylic acid, hydroxy—4~
alkylbenzene such as hexylresorcinol, and retinoids. As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound"
means a compound having the formula:
wherein R is - CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide), — COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or - CHzOH (i.e.,
nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing. As used herein,
“sugar amine” includes isomers and tautomers of such and its salts (e.g., HCl salt) and its
derivatives. Examples of sugar amines include glucosamine, N—acetyl glucosamine,
mannosamine, N—acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N—acetyl galactosamine, their s
(e. g., stereoisomers), and their salts (e.g, HCl salt). As used herein, "hexaminide compound”
means a compound having the formula:
NH\>C@“Om(CH2)6—O@C/NH
HZN \
1/ 2
R \R2
wherein R1 and R2 are optional or are organic acids (e.g., sulfonic acids, etc). In one
embodiment, hexamidine compound is hexamidine diisethionate.
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C. Anti-Inflammatory Agents
Hyperpigmentation may result from skin inflammation. Transient inflammatory
events ring hyperpigmentation and, more specifically, post-inflammatory
hyperpigmentation include, but are not limited to, acne lesions, n hairs, scratches,
insect bites, surfactant , allergens, and term UV exposure. Inflammation
induced hyperpigmentation including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation may be managed
by incorporating into the compositions of the present invention an nflammatory agent.
When present, the compositions of the t invention contain up to about 20%, 10%, 5%,
3%, or 1% by weight of the composition, of the anti—inflarnrnatory agent. When present, the
compositions of the present invention contain at least about , 0.01%, 0.1%, 0.2%,
0.3%, 0.5%, or 1%, by weight of the composition, of the anti-inflammatory agent. Suitable
ranges include any combination of the lower and upper limits. Suitable anti-inflammatory
agents include, but are not limited to nonsteroidal anti—inflammatory agents (NSAIDS
including but not limited to ibuprofen, naproxen, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirin,
mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam and felbinac), glycyrrhizic acid (also known
as glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhixinic acid, and glycyrrhetinic acid glycoside) and salts such as
dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycyrrhetenic acid, licorice extracts, lol (e.g., alpha
bisabolol), manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia
cordifolia), and guggal (extracted from plants in the genus Commiphora, particularly
Commiphora mukul), kola extract, chamomile, Clover t (e.g., red clover extract), and
sea whip extract (extracts from plant in the order Gorgonacea), derivatives of any of the
foregoing, and mixtures thereof.
D. Sunscreen Actives
The compositions of the subject invention may comprise one or more sunscreen
actives (or sunscreen agents) and/or ultraviolet light absorbers. Herein, “sunscreen active”
collectively includes, sunscreen actives, sunscreen agents, and/or ultraviolet light absorbers.
Sunscreen actives e both sunscreen agents and physical sunblocks. een actives
may be c or inorganic. Examples of le sunscreen actives are disclosed in Personal
Care Product Council's ational Cosmetic ient Dictionary and Handbook,
Thirteenth Edition, as “sunscreen agents.” Particularly suitable sunscreen actives are 2-
ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOLTM MCX), 4,4’-t-butyl
methoxydibenzoyl—methane rcially available as PARSOLTM 1789), 2-hydroxy
WO 15947 PCT/U52012/025910
methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2—
dihydroxymethoxybenzophenone, ethyl—4-(bis(hydroxypropyl))aminobenzoate, 2—
ethylhexyl-Z-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexy1—salicylate, glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate,
3,3,5-tri-methylcyclohexylsalicylate, menthyl anthranilate, p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or
aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino—benzoate, 2—phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic
acid, imethylaminophenyl)sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid, octocrylene, zinc oxide,
benzylidene camphor and derivatives f, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the composition may comprise from about 1% to about 20%, and
alternatively from about 2% to about 10% by weight of the composition, of the een
active. Exact s will vary depending upon the chosen een active and the desired
Sun Protection Factor (SPF), which is within the knowledge of one of skilled in the art.
E. Optional Components
The compositions of the present invention may contain a variety of other ingredients
provided that they do not unacceptably alter the benefits of the invention. When present,
compositions of the present invention may contain from about 0.0001% to about 50%; from
about 0.001% to about 20%; or, alternately, from about 0.01% to about 10%, by weight of the
composition, of the optional ents. The amounts listed herein are only to be used as a
guide, as the optimum amount of the al components used in a composition will depend
on the specific active selected since their potency does vary considerably. Hence, the amount
of some optional components useful in the present invention may be outside the ranges listed
The optional components, when incorporated into the composition, should be suitable
for use in contact with human skin tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability,
allergic response, and the like. The compositions of the present invention may e
optional components such as anti-acne actives, desquamation actives, anti-cellulite agents,
chelating agents, flavonoids, tanning active, non-vitamin antioxidants and radical scavengers,
hair growth regulators, anti-wrinkle actives, anti~atrophy actives, minerals, phytosterols
and/or plant es, N-acyl amino acid compounds, antimicrobial or antifungal actives,
and other useful skin care actives, which are described in further detail in US. application
publication No. US2006/0275237Al and U82004/0175347A1, the disclosures of which are
hereby incorporated by nce herein.
WO 15947 PCT/U82012/025910
The Personal Care Product Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary
and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition, describes a wide y of non-limiting cosmetic and
pharmaceutical ients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable
optional components for use in the compositions of the present invention. Examples of these
ingredient classes include: abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as fragrances,
pigments, colorings/colorants, essential oils, anti—caking agents, antifoaming agents,
antimicrobials, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating
agents, al additives, colorants, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic es, denaturants,
drug astringents, emollients, external analgesics, film formers or als, opacifying agents,
pI—I adjusters, preservatives, propellants, reducing agents, sequestrants, skin cooling agents,
skin protectants, thickeners viscosity modifiers, ns, and ations thereof.
F. Dermatologically Acceptable Carrier
The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a dermatologically
acceptable carrier (which may be referred to as er”) for the ition. The phrase
"dermatologically acceptable carrier", as used , means that the carrier is suitable for
topical application to the keratinous tissue, has good aesthetic properties, is compatible with
the actives in the composition, and will not cause any unreasonable safety or toxicity
concerns. In one embodiment, the carrier is present at a level of from about 50% to about
99%, about 60% to about 98%, about 70% to about 98%, or, atively, from about 80% to
about 95%, by weight of the ition.
The carrier can be in a wide variety of forms. Non-limiting examples include simple
solutions (e.g., aqueous, organic solvent, or oil based), emulsions, and solid forms (e.g, gels,
sticks, e solids, or amorphous materials). In certain embodiments, the
dermatologically acceptable carrier is in the form of an emulsion. Emulsion may be
generally classified as having a continuous aqueous phase (e.g, oil-in-water and water-in-oil-
in—water) or a continuous oil phase (e.g., water-in—oil and oil—in-water—in-oil). The oil phase
of the present invention may comprise silicone oils, non-silicone oils such as hydrocarbon
oils, , ethers, and the like, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase typically comprises water. However, in other embodiments, the
aqueous phase may comprise components other than water, including but not limited to
water-soluble moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, anti—microbials, humectants and/or
other soluble skin care actives. In one embodiment, the non-water component of the
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composition comprises a humectant such as glycerin and/or other polyols. However, it
should be recognized that the composition may be substantially (226., less than 1% water) or
fully anhydrous.
A suitable carrier is ed to yield a desired product form. Furthermore, the
solubility or dispersibility of the components (e.g., extracts, sunscreen active, additional
components) may dictate the form and character of the carrier. In one embodiment, an oil—in-
water or water-in-oil emulsion is red.
Emulsions may r comprise an emulsifier. The composition may comprise any
suitable percentage of emulsifier to sufficiently emulsify the carrier. Suitable weight ranges
include from about 0.1% to about 10% or about 0.2% to about 5% of an emulsifier, based on
the weight of the composition. fiers may be nonionic, c or cationic. Suitable
emulsifiers are disclosed in, for example, US. Patent 3,755,560, US. Patent 4,421,769, and
McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition, pages 317-324 ,
the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference herein. Suitable emulsions
may have a wide range of Viscosities, ing on the desired product form.
The carrier may further comprise a thickening agent as are well known in the art to
provide compositions having a suitable ity and rheological character.
II. Methods of Treatment
Various methods of ent, application, regulation, or improvement may utilize the
aforementioned compositions. Identification of a region of aging skin may occur on any
skin surface of the body. Skin surfaces of the most concern tend to be those not typically
covered by clothing such as facial skin surfaces, hand and arm skin surfaces, foot and leg skin
surfaces, and neck and chest skin surfaces (e.g., décolletage). In particular, identification of
the region of aging skin may be on a facial skin surface including the forehead, perioral, chin,
periorbital, nose, and/or cheek skin surfaces.
The method may comprise the step of applying the ition to the usly
fied area of aging skin, or an area where one seeks to prevent the appearance of aging
skin. Many regimens exist for the application of the composition. The composition may be
applied at least once a day, twice a day, or on a more nt daily basis, during a treatment
period. When applied twice daily, the first and second applications are separated by at least 1
to about 12 hours. lly, the composition may be applied in the morning and/or in the
evening before bed.
PCT/U82012/025910
The treatment period is ideally of sufficient time to provide an improvement in the
appearance of aging skin. The treatment period may be at least about 1 week, and in some
embodiments the treatment period may last about 4 weeks or about 8 weeks. In certain
embodiments, the treatment period will extend over multiple months (i.e., 3-12 months) or
multiple years. In one embodiment the composition is applied at least once a day during a
treatment period of at least about 4 weeks or at least about 8 weeks. In one embodiment the
composition is applied twice a day during a treatment period of at least about 4 weeks or 8
weeks.
The step of applying the composition may be accomplished by localized application.
In reference to ation of the ition, the terms ized”, “local”, or “locally”
mean that the ition is delivered to the targeted area (such as age spots) while
minimizing delivery to skin surface not requiring treatment. The composition may be applied
and lightly massaged into area of aging skin. The form of the composition or the
dermatologically acceptable carrier should be ed to facilitate localized application.
While certain ments of the present invention contemplate applying a composition
locally to an area, it will be appreciated that compositions of the t invention can be
applied more generally or broadly to one or more skin surfaces.
In some embodiments, the composition may be red by a variety of applicators
appropriate for localized and general application. Such applicators can include droppers,
applicator wands, cotton swabs, or any other suitable device. Other suitable applicators
include SH-0127 pen applicator ble from Shya Hsin Plastic Works, Inc., Taiwan and
either the Xpress Tip or liquid filled swab available from SwabPlus, Inc., China. The
applicator may be configured to easily apply the composition to age spots having an
approximate er between about 2 mm and about 10 mm and allowing for a dosed
amount of the composition of between about 1 to about 50 uL/cm2 or between about I to
about SuL/cmz. In another embodiment, the ition is applied to the one or more aging
spots and more generally to one or more facial skin surfaces contemporaneously (z'.e., over a
period of less than 30 s or, more typically, less than 5 minutes).
While some methods described herein contemplate applying the compositions of the
t invention with an applicator, it will be appreciated that applicators are not required
and the compositions of the present invention can also be applied directly by using one’s
finger or in other conventional manners.
PCT/U82012/025910
In one embodiment, the method comprises the steps of applying a first composition
comprising an effective amount of banyan tree serum fraction, lotus serum fraction, and
clover serum fraction to a skin surface and of applying a second composition to the skin
surface, before or after the first composition. The first and second compositions may be any
compositions described ; however, the second composition may optionally se an
effective amount of the serum ons present in the first ition. The second
composition may comprise one or more tone agents, sunscreen actives, nflammatory
agents, or optional components. The first composition may be generally or locally applied,
While the second composition may be lly or locally applied to the skin surface
ing the aging skin to which the first composition is applied. In certain embodiments,
the skin surface is facial skin surface which include one or more of the forehead, perioral,
chin, periorbital, nose, and cheek skin surfaces. In another embodiment, the first and second
itions are applied contemporaneously to at least the cheek, forehead, and chin/perioral
skin surfaces. For general application to a skin surface and, particularly a facial skin surface,
the closed amount of the first or second composition may be between about 1 to about 50
uL/cm2 per application (i.e., per single application to the skin surfaces).
Suitable methods may comprise any one or more of the entioned steps. All of
the aforementioned steps are applicable to application, treatment, regulation, and/or
improvement of aging skin appearance. One suitable method of improving the appearance of
aging skin includes the step of topically applying a composition comprising an effective
amount of banyan tree serum fraction, lotus serum fraction, and clover serum fraction blend
to the aging skin surface, wherein the composition is applied for a period of time sufficient
for the serum fraction blend to improve the ance of the aging skin.
III. Mechanisms ofAction
The stratum corneum is a tightly regulated epidermal permeability barrier and
functions as a physical and selective barrier t chemical and biological s, as well as
acts as a permeability barrier to prevent loss of body moisture to the outside environment.
The m corneum’s cells control these barriers by regulating the movement of water, ions,
and proteins across them. Flow of ions and molecules between cells, often referred to as the
paracellular permeability pathway, is regulated by tight junctions. (Koval, Michael.
Claudins — Key Pieces in the Tight Junction Puzzle. Cell ication and Adhesion.
13:127—138, 2006.)
Tight ons are sites of cell-cell contact composed of a number of transmembrane
and peripheral proteins, assembled into a complex tethered to the cytoskeleton. Of these
transmembrane proteins, those identified as “Claudins” are the major determinant of cellular
permeability. Claudins serve several roles in maintaining barrier on. Claudins are a
major component of the strands that constitute the permeability barrier to limit diffusion of
ns and other macromolecules between cells, and they also form specific paracellular
channels that regulate ion diffusion between cells. n-l mutations have been associated
with several types of ichthyosis (a family of skin disorders causing dry, ned, scaly, or
flaky skin), and a study has shown that the epidermal barrier function of claudin-l deficient
mice is so compromised that their cells are unable to hold water, causing the skin to dry up
and leading to death within a day. (M. Furuse, et al. The Journal of Cell Biology, 156 (No.
6): 1099-1111, 2002)
Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a membrane transporter of water and glycerol expressed in
the basal layer of epidermal keratinocytes. Aged human skin has been shown to experience
decreased AQP3 expression, which also correlates to a reduced stratum corneum water
content and elasticity compared with young, undamaged skin. In studies involving AQP3-
knockout mice, reduced AQP3-dependent glycerol transport in AQP3-deficiient epidermis
has been show to be sible for dehydrated, inelastic skin. (“Aquaporin—3 functions as a
glycerol transporter in mammalian skin,” hikuma M, Biol Cell. 2005 Jul;97(7):479-
86.); (”Roles of Aquaporin-3 in the mis”, Hara—Chikuma, M., J Invest Dermatol. 2008
Sep;128(9):2145-51. Epub 2008 Jun 12); (“Glycerol replacement corrects ive skin
hydration, elasticity, and barrier function in aqaporin-3—deficient mice,” Hara M., Proc Natl
Acad Sci U S A. 2003 Jun (12):7360-5. Epub 2003 May 27).
The blend of banyan tree, clover, and lotus serum fractions resulted in positive
increases in moisture and barrier function, as evidenced by the statistically significant up-
regulation of claudin—l and rin-3 (“AQP3”) in Example 3 below.
In Example 2, the blend’s effect on nine different genes associated with aging skin
was ted. These nine genes, and their associated functions, are described in Table l of
Example 2. The fold-increase / decrease in expression, versus control, was determined for
the aging-related genes at two ent concentration levels. In both cases, as shown in
Tables 2a and 2b, the blend effected a positive fold increase in all nine genes, indicating the
desirable up—regulation of that gene, and thus a positive anti—aging benefit.
PCT/U82012/025910
EXAMPLES
Example 1 — afl Compositions
Table 1 sets forth non-limiting examples of the compositions of the present invention.
The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as
limitations of the present invention, as many ions thereof are possible without departing
from the spirit and scope of the invention, which would be recognized by one of ordinary
skill in the art. In the es, all concentrations are listed as weight percent, unless
ise specified and may exclude minor als such as diluents, filler, and so forth.
The listed formulations, therefore, comprise the listed components and any minor materials
associated with such components. As is nt to one of ordinary skill in the art, the
ion of these minor materials will vary depending on the physical and chemical
characteristics of the particular ingredients selected to make the present invention as
described herein.
All examples may be used to treat or improve the appearance of one or more signs of
aging. The present invention may further relate to a regimen involving the localized
treatment for one or more aging signs by a first composition (e. g., Examples A or B) and a
more broad or general facial skin treatment by a second composition (e.g., Examples C or D),
which can be applied before or after the localized treatment to improve a particular sign of
aging (e.g., across the entire face).
Table l
Exemplary Compositions
Comonent/%b wt.
Ficus Benghalensis
(Banyan Tree)
Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice
Nelumbo Nucifera (Lotus)
Flower/LeaflStem Juice
(manufactured b (**)
Trifolium Pratense (Clover)
Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice
(**)
“mm-mu
—-m_‘m--m_-m
SepiwhiteTM
(Undecylenoyl-
phenylalanine, neutralized)
(available from SEPPIC
Com onent / % by wt
Sepigel 305TM
crylamide + Cl3—l4
2'00 2'00
isoparaffin + laureth-7)
(available from SEPPIC)
Inn—n
—m--m_mm_m
—mm_.m--m_-m_
IRE-M“—
-m-m-m—
_-m--m-—-m_
Butylene Glycol (CAS No.
'50 5'50 5'50 5'50
Eifmlde‘wm
DC 1503 Flu1dTM (avallable
2.50 2.50 250 250
from DowCormn)
LubraJ el OilTM (available
144 1.44 1.44 1.44
from Sederma)
Phenonip XBTM (available
ligf’oin‘henWSN“
Tospearl 2000TM
(Polymethylsils
esquioxane) (CAS No.
68554—70—1) (available
from GE
Silicones/Momentive)
DL-Alpha Tocopheryl
Acetate (CAS No. 7695—91~ 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
Prodew 400TM (available
0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
from A‘inomoto)
Pemulen TR-ZTM
(Acrylates/C10—30 Alkyl
te Crosspolymer)
(available from Noveon)
Polysorbate 20 (CAS No.
Sodium Metabisulfite (CAS
Sodium Hydroxide (CAS
No. 3-2)(50% 0.17 0.17 0.17 0.17
solution b wei_ht in water
Disodium EDTA (CAS No.
Com onent / % b Wt.
Xanthan Gum (CAS No.
Sodium Hyaluronate (CAS
TOTAL (% W welgh‘ 0f
100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00
total com n)
** Manufactured by Akzo Nobel e Chemistry LLC of Ossining, New York, USA.
The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional
methods such as are known in the art of making topical itions. Such methods
typically involve mixing of the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively uniform state,
with or without heating, cooling, ation of vacuum, and the like. Typically, emulsions
are prepared by first mixing the aqueous phase materials separately from the fatty phase
materials and then combining the two phases as appropriate to yield the desired continuous
phase. The compositions are preferably prepared such as to optimize stability (physical
stability, chemical stability, tability) and/or delivery of the active als. This
optimization may include appropriate pH (e.g., less than 7), exclusion of materials that can
complex with the active agent and thus negatively impact stability or delivery (e.g., exclusion
of contaminating iron), use of approaches to prevent complex formation (e.g., appropriate
dispersing agents or dual tment ing), use of appropriate photostability
approaches (e.g., incorporation of sunscreen/sunblock, use of opaque packaging), etc.
Example 2 — Ex Vivo Tissue Analysis
Individual banyan tree, lotus, and clover serum fractions, as well as their blend, were
evaluated at two different concentrations according to the method described herein. The fold-
increase / decrease in expression, versus control, was determined for the aging-related genes
set forth in Table 2, below. A positive fold se tes the desirable up-regulation of
that gene, and thus a positive anti-aging benefit.
Ex Vivo tissue Method: Skin explants were collected from surgical waste and d
with actives in media. Control skin was untreated. After 7 days, punch biopsies were taken
for RNA isolation and PCR analysis.
RT-PCR Method: Purified RNA is converted to cDNA using Quanta iScriptTM. 500
ng ofRNA is mixed with iScript and run on a thermocycler according to kit instructions.
One ul of the resulting cDNA is then mixed with Quanta Perfecta MasterTM mix according to
ctions and aliquoted across SAbiosciencesTM custom array plate. The plate is then
W0 2012/115947 PCT/U82012/025910
sealed and run on the Step-one PlusTM machine from Applied temsTM. The data
analysis is performed by uploading raw data into the data is software from
SAbiosciencesTM.
Table 2
Reresentative Genes Havin Decreased EXoression with Skin A '
Associated Function
Fibrillin-l (FBNI) Structural comonents of microfibrils, which occur in association with elastin
ectin—l (FNl) Adhesive ated with wound healin -
Collagen 3, a1
(COL3A1) Ma'or colla en ofthe dermis
Table 2a
Sample Concentration l
Up-Down Regulation
Fold Chan oe vs. Control
Banyan
Tree Lotus
Serum Serum Combination
Fraction Fraction (statistically significant vs.
0.55% 0.1% l -< 0.05
EEK-___—
HIE-___—
Table 2b
Samle Concentration 2
Up-Down Regulation
Fold Chan e vs. Control
Clover
Serum Combination
Fraction Lotus (statistically significant vs.
0.01% 0.01% control .< 0.05
Example 3 — Keratinoc e Assa for Claudin l and A P-3 EX ression
Keratinocyte Culture: A multiplex mRNA analysis was conducted. RNA was
isolated from neonatal human nocytes. Neonatal human keratinocytes (Cascade
Biologics # C-OOl-SC) were grown to 40% confluence in 6-well tissue culture plates then
treated with compounds for 24 hours (3 replicates per treatment). The treatments ed
several concentrations of banyan tree + clover + lotus blends along with individual juices,
Additionally, a vehicle control was used.
Several targets were measured with Panomics QuantiGene Plex Assay kit, a multi-
analyte quantitative bead—based assay. The fluorescence ity values, measured by a Bio—
Rad Bio-Plex 100 instrument, for those samples ng ent RNA are shown for
Aquaporin 3 and Claudin 1.
The graph of Figure 1 shows that claudin-l and AQP3 were desirably up—regulated in
response to the banyan tree + clover + lotus blend herein.
Example 4 — Method of Treatment
A test subject topically applies composition A of Example 1 to the entire face once a
day for 8 weeks. As a result, the subject’s facial skin feels and appears to be more hydrated
than at week 0, and the subject notices a decrease in the appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles.
The ions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly
limited to the exact numerical values d. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such
dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range
surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean
“about 40 mm.”
Every nt cited herein, including any cross referenced or d patent or
application, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly
ed or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an ion that it is
prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any
combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such
invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document
conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by
reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and
described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and
ations can be made without departing from the range and scope of the invention. It is
therefore ed to cover in the appended claims all such s and modifications that
are within the scope of this invention.
Claims (11)
1. Use of a serum fraction blend in ating lly d skin compositions, said blend comprising: a. Banyan tree serum fraction; b. Lotus serum fraction; and c. Clover serum fraction, to increase the moisture and barrier function of human epidermis, as evidenced by the statistically significant up-regulation of n-l and aquaporin—3 in said human epidermis.
2. The use in accordance with claim 1 wherein the serum fraction blend comprises: a. from 0.001% to 15% Banyan tree serum fraction; b. from 0.001% to 15% Lotus serum fraction; and c. from 0.001 % to 15% Clover serum fraction.
3. The use in accordance with claim 1 wherein the serum fraction blend comprises: a. from 0.002% to 10% Banyan tree serum fraction; b. from 0.002% to 10% Lotus serum fraction; and c. from 0.002% to 10% Clover serum fraction.
4. The use in accordance with claim 1 n the serum fraction blend comprises: a. from 0.025% to 10% Banyan tree serum fraction; b. from 0.025% to 10% Lotus serum fraction; and c. from 0.025% to 10% Clover serum fraction.
5. The use in accordance with claim 1 wherein the serum fraction blend comprises: a. from 0.05% to 5% Banyan tree serum fraction; b. from 0.05% to 5% Lotus serum fraction; and c. from 0.05% to 5% Clover serum fraction.
6. A s to increase the moisture and barrier function of human epidermis, as evidenced by the statistically significant up-regulation of claudin-l and aquaporin- 3 in said human epidermis, by topically applying a skin care composition comprising a blend of: a. Banyan tree serum fraction; b. Lotus serum fraction; and c. Clover serum fraction.
A process in accordance with claim 6 wherein the skin care composition comprises a blend of: a. from 0.001% to 15% Banyan tree serum fraction; b. from 0.001% to 15% Lotus serum fraction; and c. from 0.001% to 15% Clover serum fraction.
A process in accordance with claim 6 wherein the skin care composition comprises a blend of: a. from 0.002% to 10% Banyan tree seium fraction; b. from 0.002% to 10% Lotus serum fraction; and c. from 0.002% to 10% Clover serum on.
A process in accordance with claim 6 wherein the skin care composition comprises a blend of: a. from 0.025% to 10% Banyan tree serum fraction; b. from 0.025% to 10% Lotus serum fraction; and c. from 0.025% to 10% Clover serum fraction.
10. A process in accordance with claim 6 wherein the skin care composition ses a blend of: a. from 0.05% to 5% Banyan tree serum fraction; b. from 0.05% to 5% Lotus serum fraction; and c. from 0.05% to 5% Clover serum fraction.
ll. Use in ance with claim 1, substantially as herein described with reference to any one of the Examples f and/or
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US201161445374P | 2011-02-22 | 2011-02-22 | |
US61/445,374 | 2011-02-22 | ||
PCT/US2012/025910 WO2012115947A2 (en) | 2011-02-22 | 2012-02-21 | Composition comprising banyan tree, lotus, and clover serum fractions (aging) |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
NZ614244A NZ614244A (en) | 2015-05-29 |
NZ614244B2 true NZ614244B2 (en) | 2015-09-01 |
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