NO345878B1 - Anchor - Google Patents

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Publication number
NO345878B1
NO345878B1 NO20200250A NO20200250A NO345878B1 NO 345878 B1 NO345878 B1 NO 345878B1 NO 20200250 A NO20200250 A NO 20200250A NO 20200250 A NO20200250 A NO 20200250A NO 345878 B1 NO345878 B1 NO 345878B1
Authority
NO
Norway
Prior art keywords
anchor
hanger
ring
elongated element
rock climbing
Prior art date
Application number
NO20200250A
Other languages
Norwegian (no)
Other versions
NO20200250A1 (en
Inventor
Joachim Stray
Runar Carlsen
Knut Erling Moen
Steinar Sørbø
Jon Olav Nyborg
Rune Østhus
Knut Erik Snilsberg
Original Assignee
Climb Norway As
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Climb Norway As filed Critical Climb Norway As
Priority to NO20200250A priority Critical patent/NO345878B1/en
Publication of NO20200250A1 publication Critical patent/NO20200250A1/en
Publication of NO345878B1 publication Critical patent/NO345878B1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00Apparatus for mountaineering

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Iron Core Of Rotating Electric Machines (AREA)
  • Surgical Instruments (AREA)
  • Valve Device For Special Equipments (AREA)

Description

The present invention relates generally to anchors for climbing and related activities.
In particular, though not solely, the present invention relates to a removable anchor for climbing comprising an anchor hanger, where the anchor can be inserted into a prepared or otherwise suitable orifice in a rock face to secure a climber against falling, but which can be easily disassembled and/or replaced when no longer needed and used again in a different suitable orifice.
The present invention also relates to a method for replacement of an anchor ring from an anchor hanger for an anchor for rock climbing.
In some cases, there may be a need or desire to provide an anchor in an anchoring surface, for example when access to a vertical or near vertical area is needed or desired. A rope will typically be connected, either directly or indirectly, to the anchor. A user can then access the desired area via the rope, or the user may use the rope to haul an object up and down, or to hold something in place.
Such need or desire may be for leisure, such as rock climbing and similar activities, or may be for maintenance or work, such as for access on a worksite or similar.
Rock climbing is an activity enjoyed by many people.
In the field of climbing, a wide range of equipment is utilized to assist in the safe ascent and descent of a rock face. Such equipment is also utilized on artificial climbing structures, such as artificial rock walls, which are used by climbers to practice rock climbing and, in particular, to simulate different climbing challenges.
US 6.068.226 relates to an anchor, the anchor comprising an anchor assembly movable between a collapsed orientation and an expanded orientation and an engagement element depending from the anchor assembly engagable by one or more selected accessories, wherein the anchor assembly is receivable into a bore in the collapsed orientation and detachably engagable to a sidewall of the bore in the expanded orientation.
AU 2011202799 A1 relates to a rock climbing bolt anchor clip device comprising a bolt plate including a gate that can be opened to allow the plate to be placed over a suitable anchor bolt, then closed to prevent accidental detachment. The gate includes a tensioning mechanism to hold the gate closed, and a trigger or lever to open the gate.
US 2016166883 A1 relates to a power ice screw system including an ice screw and screw adapter configured to engage the ice screw, thus enabling use of a power drill to install the ice screw in an ice feature, is described. The ice screw includes a drive head configured to engage the screw adapter. The screw adapter includes clearing ports that enable the adapter to expel ice that enters the adapter from within the ice screw hollow core. The ice screw core extends through the drive head to permit ice to flow through the ice screw and into the adapter. A cutting member resides within the screw adapter, typically disposed between two clearing ports. The cutting member can be flanked by two flanges configured to direct ice that has been disrupted by the cutting member outwardly through the clearing ports. The power drill is typically a lightweight battery powered electric driver.
US 2014/0217255 A1 relates to a securing lug having a bolt and a securing ring which is connected pivotably to the bolt, as a result of which the pivoting-angle range of the securing ring is limited to less than 180<0>.
There is thus a need for alternatives to today’s anchors for rock climbing, or at least supplementary solutions for anchors for rock climbing.
An object of the present invention is to provide an anchor hanger and an anchor for rock climbing which from a constructional point of view is simple and robust, and which may be used without the danger of collapse under various conditions.
Another object is to provide an anchor hanger and an anchor for rock climbing which is easier to assemble, disassemble and/or replace.
A further object of the present invention is to seek to solve one or more of the problems or drawbacks according to prior art.
These objects are achieved with an anchor hanger, an anchor for rock climbing comprising the anchor hanger and a method for replacement of the anchor hanger as defined in the independent claims 1, 9 and 12.
Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are indicated in the dependent claims.
The present invention relates to an anchor hanger for an anchor for rock climbing, where the anchor hanger comprises an elongated element and where each end of the elongated element is provided with a fastening eye, the elongated element further being provided with a bend, such that a part of the elongated element forms an angle with a horizontal plane, the elongated element having a form or design where the fastening eyes are arranged to have a same central axis and where the fastening eyes are arranged at a distance above each other in an initial or non-loaded position of the anchor hanger, the central axis also forming an angle with the horizontal plane.
The arrangement of the fastening eyes, i.e. the fastening eyes being arranged to have the same central axis and the fastening eyes being arranged with a certain distance between them, will facilitate installation or replacement of an anchor ring, as the anchor ring may easily be inserted into the anchor hanger through the distance between the fastening eyes.
As the term “initial position” or “non-loaded position” is used in the present invention, this term is to be understood to be a condition in which the anchor hanger is not subjected to an external load, such as when the anchor hanger is not mounted or connected to the anchor for rock climbing.
The elongated element of the anchor hanger may have a circular, square or polygonal cross-section.
According to one aspect, the anchor hanger may be made from titanium, but it could also be envisaged that the anchor hanger may be made from other stainless or rustproof materials, such as composite, rigid plastic, alloys or the like.
The elongated element may, in one embodiment, towards an area of the fastening eyes, be provided with a bend or break, such that a part of the elongated element forms an angle with a horizontal plane. Such a design will result in that the anchor hanger, when assembled with an anchor for rock climbing detachably engaged to a bore formed through a rock face, will protrude out somewhat from the rock face. A climbing rope passing through the anchor hanger will therefore be less exposed to wear, as the climbing rope to a lesser extent will be in contact with the rock face.
The bend or break may be abrupt or gradual.
The fastening eye is provided with a through-going hole such that the anchor hanger can be fastened to the anchor for rock climbing through an anchor bolt.
A cross-section of the elongated element of the anchor hanger may be uniform over a length of the elongated element, or the cross-section may vary over the length of the elongated element. An area or areas of the anchor hanger that is/are exposed to greater load(s), when the anchor hanger is in use, may then be designed to have a larger cross-section than an area or areas that are exposed to less load(s).
The anchor hanger may in one embodiment be made in a single piece. However, a person skilled in the art would know that the anchor hanger could be made of several pieces, where the pieces will be connected to each other in suitable ways.
The anchor hanger may then, according to one embodiment, comprise three pieces, i.e. the elongated element and two fastening eyes, where a fastening eye is connected to each end of the elongated element.
The present invention also relates to an anchor for rock climbing comprising an anchor hanger as described above, where the anchor further comprises an anchor assembly, the anchor assembly comprising a sleeve, an annular flange extending out from one end of the sleeve and an anchor bolt.
According to one aspect, the anchor for rock climbing may further comprise a distance ring, where the distance ring may be arranged between the spaced apart fastening eyes of the anchor hanger when the anchor hanger is assembled with the anchor for rock climbing.
The present invention also relates to a method for replacement of an anchor ring from an anchor hanger of an anchor for rock climbing, where the method comprises the following steps:
-unscrew an anchor bolt and remove it from the anchor for rock climbing, -loosen and remove the anchor hanger and the anchor ring connected to the anchor hanger from the anchor for rock climbing,
-release the anchor ring from the anchor hanger by removing the anchor ring through the distance provided between the fastening eyes of the anchor hanger, -insert a new anchor ring through the distance provided between the fastening eyes, -fasten the anchor hanger and the anchor ring connected to the anchor hanger to the anchor for rock climbing, and
-screwing the anchor bolt to the anchor for rock climbing.
A distance ring may further be included in the anchor for rock climbing, whereby the method may further comprise the step of:
- arranging a distance ring in between the fastening eyes, after insertion of the anchor ring into the anchor hanger, but before fastening of the anchor hanger and the anchor ring connected to the anchor hanger to the anchor for rock climbing.
Other advantages and characteristic features of the present invention will be seen clearly from the following detailed description, the appended figures and the following claims.
The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to the following figures, wherein
Figures 1A-1N show a first embodiment of an anchor hanger according to the present invention, from different angles,
Figures 2A-2H show a second embodiment of the anchor hanger according to figures 1A-1N, from different angles,
Figure 3 shows how an anchor ring can be connected to the anchor hanger,
Figures 4A-4B show how the anchor hanger can be connected to an anchor for rock climbing,
Figure 5 shows the anchor hanger and the anchor ring connected to an anchor for rock climbing, and
Figure 6 shows two different anchors for rock climbing.
Figures 1A-1N show a first embodiment of an anchor hanger 1 according to the present invention, where the anchor hanger 1 is shown in a plurality of perspective views.
Such an anchor hanger 1 is used together with an anchor R for rock climbing to secure a climber when ascending and descending rock faces such as high rock cliffs and mountains. Such anchors for rock climbing are particularly useful when the rock face includes little or no cracks or rock irregularities climbers can use to grab onto during ascent or descent.
The anchor hanger 1 comprises an elongated element 3, where a fastening eye 4 extends out from each end of the elongated element 3.
The anchor hanger 1 may be made from one piece of the material, but it could also be envisaged that the fastening eyes 4 could be made as separate parts and thereafter connected to each end of the elongated element in appropriate ways. A person skilled in the art will know how the fastening eyes 4 can be connected to the elongated element 3, and therefore this is not described any further herein.
In this embodiment the anchor hanger 1 has a circular cross-section, but the anchor hanger 1 may also be made with other cross-sections, for instance a square-shaped cross-section, as shown in figures 2A-2H, or even other cross-sections, such as polygonal cross-section.
The anchor hanger 1 is constructed from titanium or from other stainless or rustproof materials, such as composite, rigid plastic, alloys or the like.
The elongated element 3 is also provided, towards an area of each fastening eye 4, with a bend or break 5, this resulting in that a part of the anchor hanger 1 will form an angle with a horizontal plane. When the anchor hanger 1 is assembled with an anchor R for rock climbing, as shown in figures 4A-5, and the anchor R is engaged to a bore formed through a rock face, a part of the anchor hanger 1 will protrude out from a rock face to which the anchor R for rock climbing is fixed to.
A climbing rope (not shown) passing through the anchor hanger 1 will therefore be exposed to less wear, as the climbing rope to a lesser extent will be in contact with the rock face.
The elongated element 3 of the anchor hanger 1 will furthermore be bent to a form where the fastening eyes 4 are arranged to have the same central axis and to be arranged one above the other, thereby providing a gap or distance D between the two fastening eyes 4. In this position, where the fastening eyes 4 are provided with a through-going hole or opening 6, the through-going holes 6 or openings of the fastening eyes 4 will be aligned with each other, such that an anchor bolt 8 of the anchor R for rock climbing can be guided through the anchor hanger 1 in order to secure the anchor hanger 1 to the anchor R for rock climbing.
As the anchor hanger 1 is not completely rigid, the fastening eyes 4 can be brought into contact with each other when the anchor hanger 1 is connected and fixed to the anchor R for rock climbing through an anchor bolt 8, as shown in figure 4A, but the anchor hanger 1 will resume its original form once the anchor hanger 1 is not subjected to an external load, in which original form the fastening eyes 4 are spaced apart with the gap or distance D.
Such a design or form of the anchor hanger 1 is useful when, for instance, an anchor ring 10 connected to the anchor hanger 1, due to various reasons must be replaced with a new anchor ring 10. This will be explained in more detail with reference to figure 3.
Figures 1A, 1C, 1F, 1I and 1K show the anchor hanger 1 according to the present invention in different perspective views, where the anchor hanger 1 is shown in an initial position of the anchor hanger 1, i.e. a position where the anchor hanger 1 is not subjected to external load(s) and where the fastening eyes 4 are spaced apart from each other with the gap or distance D.
Figures 1B, 1D, 1G and 1J show the anchor hanger 1 according to the present invention from different perspective views, where a distance ring 9 is arranged in the gap or distance D between the fastening eyes 4 and aligned with the throughgoing openings 6 of the fastening eyes 4.
Figures 1E and 1H show the anchor hanger 1 according to the present invention in two different perspective views, where it can be seen that the through-going openings 6 of the fastening eyes 4 are aligned with each other.
Figures 2A-2H show a second embodiment of an anchor hanger 1 according to the present invention, where the anchor hanger 1 is shown in a plurality of perspective views.
In this embodiment the anchor hanger 1 has a square-formed cross-section but will otherwise be similarly constructed as the anchor hanger 1 of figures 1A-1N, whereby it is referred to the above description of these figures. However, a person with skill in the art would know that the anchor hanger 1 could be made with even other cross-sections, for instance a polygonal cross-section.
The anchor hanger 1 is shown in a position where the anchor hanger 1 is exposed to an external load or loads, for instance when the anchor hanger 1 is connected and fixed to the anchor R for rock climbing through an anchor bolt 8, but where the anchor R and the anchor bolt 8 are omitted from the figures in order to show only the anchor hanger 1.
When the anchor hanger 1 is connected to the anchor R for rock climbing through the anchor bolt 8, the fastening eyes 4 of the anchor hanger 1 will be forced towards each other until the fastening eyes 4 are brought into contact with each other.
In this embodiment it is not shown that a distance ring 9 is arranged in the gap or distance D provided between the fastening eyes 4, but a person skilled in the art would know that such a distance ring 9 also could be used with the anchor hanger 1 in this embodiment, as also explained in relation to figures 1B, 1D, 1G and 1J.
Figure 3 shows how an anchor ring 10 can be connected to the anchor hanger 1 according to figures 1A-2H, where the left side of figure 3 shows how the anchor ring 10 is inserted through the gap or distance D provided between the fastening eyes 4 of the anchor hanger 1, and the right side of figure 3 shows the anchor ring 10 connected to the anchor hanger 1.
The anchor hanger 1 is shown in an initial position, i.e. in a position where the anchor hanger 1 is not subjected to external load or loads, such as when the anchor hanger 1 is not connected and fixed to the anchor R for rock climbing, whereby the fastening eyes 4 in this initial position will be spaced apart with the gap or distance D between them.
The arrangement of the fastening eyes 4, i.e. the fastening eyes 4 being arranged with a certain gap or distance D between them, will facilitate installation or replacement of the anchor ring 10, as the anchor ring 10 can easily be inserted into the anchor hanger 1 through the gap or distance D between the fastening eyes 4.
A method for replacement of the anchor ring 10 from the anchor hanger 1 of the anchor R for rock climbing will then comprise the following steps:
-to unscrew an anchor bolt 8 of the anchor R for rock climbing and remove the anchor bolt 8 from the anchor R for rock climbing,
-to loosen and remove the anchor hanger 1 and the anchor ring 10 connected to the anchor hanger 1 from the anchor R for rock climbing,
- to release the anchor ring 10 from the anchor hanger 1 by removing the anchor ring 10 through the gap or distance D provided between the fastening eyes 4 of the anchor hanger 1,
-to insert a new anchor ring 10 through the gap or distance D provided between the fastening eyes 4 of the anchor hanger 1,
-to connect the anchor hanger 1 and the anchor ring 10 connected to the anchor hanger 1 to the anchor R for rock climbing, and
-to screw the anchor bolt 8 to the anchor R for rock climbing.
A distance ring 9, although not shown in figure, may further be included in the anchor R for rock climbing, whereby the method further comprises the step of: - to arrange the distance ring 9 in between the fastening eyes 4, after insertion of the anchor ring 10 into the anchor hanger 1, but before fastening of the anchor hanger 1 and the anchor ring 10 connected to the anchor hanger 1 to the anchor R for rock climbing.
Figures 4A-4B show how the anchor hanger 1 according to the present invention is connected to the anchor R for rock climbing, where figure 4A shows the anchor hanger 1 having a square-formed cross-section and without a distance ring 9 being arranged in between the gap or distance D provided between the fastening eyes 4 of the anchor hanger 1, while figure 4B shows the anchor hanger 1 where a distance ring 9 is arranged in between the gap or distance D provided between the fastening eyes 4 of the anchor hanger 1.
When the distance ring 9 is not arranged in between the gap or distance D provided between the fastening eyes 4 of the anchor hanger 1, the fastening eyes 4 will be in abutment with each other when the anchor R for rock climbing is secured to the rock face. In this case the anchor hanger 1 is subjected to external load or loads as being fixed between the anchor bolt 8 and the annular flange 7.
When the anchor hanger 1 is released from the anchor R for rock climbing, thereby not being subjected to external load or loads, the anchor hanger 1 will resume its initial position, where the fastening eyes 4 in the initial position will be spaced apart thus providing a gap or distance D between them.
The anchor R for rock climbing comprises the anchor hanger 1 and an anchor assembly 2, where the anchor assembly 2 comprises an expandable sleeve 11, an annular flange 7, an expansion element and an anchor bolt 8.
The anchor R for rock climbing is detachably engaged to a hole (not shown) formed through a rock face or other substantially vertical extending surface, the hole being either preexisting or drilled into and through the rock face by means of a hand impact drill, a motorized drill or other apparatus suitable for forming or otherwise excavating a hole into and through the rock face.
Before the anchor hanger 1 is connected and fixed to the anchor R for rock climbing through the anchor bolt 8, although not shown in this embodiment, a distance ring 9 will be inserted into and connected to the anchor hanger 1 as shown in figure 5.
Figure 5 shows another embodiment of an anchor R for rock climbing according to the present invention, where the anchor R comprises an annular flange 7 and an anchor bolt 8. A nut 13 or the like is then used to fasten the anchor hanger 1 to the anchor R for rock climbing. In this embodiment the anchor bolt 8 will be glued to the hole provided in the rock face in order to fixate the anchor R for rock climbing to the rock face.
The anchor hanger 1 has a circular cross-section and an anchor ring 10 is connected to the anchor hanger 1. A distance ring 9 is further arranged in between the gap or distance D provided between the fastening eyes 4 of the anchor hanger 1.
Figure 6 shows two exemplary embodiments of an anchor R for rock climbing, where the anchor R, for the sake of simplicity, is shown without the anchor hanger 1, where the anchor R includes an anchor assembly 2 comprising an expandable sleeve 11, an annular flange 7, an expansion element 12 and an anchor bolt 8.
The expandable sleeve 11 is provided with a number of recesses 11a or slots extending a certain distance in a longitudinal direction of the sleeve 11.
The expansion element 12 is provided as an outwardly conical member, where a greatest diameter of the conical member somewhat greater than an inner diameter of the expandable sleeve 11.
When a nut 13 or the like is used to screw the anchor R firmly into the rock face, the expansion element 13 will be moved towards and into the expandable sleeve 11 arranged onto the anchor bolt 8. The expansion element 12 will, as the nut 13 tightens, expand the expandable sleeve 11 to such an extent that the expandable sleeve 11 and the expansion element 12 will eventually lock against an inside of the hole provided in the rock face.
The anchor hanger 1 is arranged between the annular flange 7 and the nut 13 when the anchor R for rock climbing is fully assembled.
Although the anchor hanger 1 and the anchor R for rock climbing have been described for climbing and similar activities, it should be understood that the anchor hanger 1 and the anchor R for rock climbing could be used in other areas, for example for maintenance or work, such as for access on a worksite or similar.
The invention has now been explained with reference to non-limiting exemplary embodiments. A person of skill in the art will understand however that a number of variations and modifications can be made to anchor hanger and the anchor for rock climbing as described within the scope of the invention, as defined in the appended claims.

Claims (13)

1. An anchor hanger (1) for an anchor (R) for rock climbing, the anchor hanger (1) comprising an elongated element (3), each end of the elongated element (3) being provided with a fastening eye (4), characterized in that the elongated element (3) is provided with a bend (5), such that a part of the elongated element (3) forms an angle with a horizontal plane, the elongated element (3) further having a form where the fastening eyes (4) have a same central axis (A) and arranged at a distance above each other in an initial position of the anchor hanger (1), the central axis (A) also forming an angle with the horizontal plane.
2. The anchor hanger (1) according to claim 1,
characterized in that the elongated element (3) has a circular, square or polygonal cross-section.
3. The anchor hanger (1) according to claim 1 or 2,
characterized in that the anchor hanger (1) is made from stainless or rustproof materials.
4. The anchor hanger (1) according to claim 3,
characterized in that the stainless or rustproof materials is selected from the group of titanium, composite, rigid plastic, alloys or the like.
5. The anchor hanger (1) according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the elongated element (3), towards an area of the fastening eyes (4), is provided with a bend or break (5).
6. The anchor hanger (1) according to claim 5,
characterized in that the bend or break (5) is abrupt or gradual.
7. The anchor hanger (1) according to claim 1,
characterized in that the fastening eye (4) is provided with a throughgoing hole (6).
8. The anchor hanger (1) according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cross-section of the elongated element (3) is uniform or varies along a length of the elongated element (3).
9. An anchor (R) for rock climbing comprising an anchor hanger (1) according to any preceding claims 1-8, the anchor (R) for rock climbing further comprising an anchor assembly (2), where the anchor assembly (2) comprises a sleeve (11), an annular flange (7) extending out from one end of the sleeve (11) and an anchor bolt (8).
10. The anchor (R) according to claim 9, characterized in that the anchor (R) further comprises a distance ring (9).
11. The anchor (R) according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the anchor (R) further comprises an anchor ring (10).
12. A method for replacement of an anchor ring (10) from an anchor hanger (1) for an anchor (R) for rock climbing according to any preceding claims 1-11, where the method comprises the following steps:
-unscrew an anchor bolt (8) and remove it,
-loosen and remove the anchor hanger (1) and the anchor ring (10) connected to the anchor hanger (1) from the anchor (R),
-release the anchor ring (10) from the anchor hanger (1) by removing the anchor ring (10) through the distance provided between the fastening eyes (4) of the anchor hanger (1),
-insert a new anchor ring (10) through the distance provided between the fastening eyes (4),
-fasten the anchor hanger (1) and the anchor ring (10) connected to the anchor hanger (1) to the anchor (R), and
-screw the anchor bolt (8) to the anchor (R).
13. The method according to claim 12, where the method further comprises the step of:
- arrange a distance ring (9) in between the fastening eyes (4), after insertion of the anchor ring (10) into the anchor hanger (1) but before fastening of the anchor hanger (1) and the anchor ring (10) connected to the anchor hanger (1) to the anchor (R).
NO20200250A 2020-03-02 2020-03-02 Anchor NO345878B1 (en)

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NO345878B1 true NO345878B1 (en) 2021-09-20

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Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT202200011195A1 (en) 2022-05-27 2023-11-27 Raimo Orlando Di Anchor device for rock activities

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20140217255A1 (en) * 2011-08-31 2014-08-07 Kai Rinklake Securing eye and securing system

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20140217255A1 (en) * 2011-08-31 2014-08-07 Kai Rinklake Securing eye and securing system

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