NL8900858A - COMPOSITION FOR MAKING THE EYE HAIR ON THE BASIS OF WAX AND KERATIN HYDROLYZATE. - Google Patents

Description

"χ" * NO 35833

Waxing and keratin hydrolyzate-based make-up composition

The invention relates to a composition for making up the eye hair, generally referred to as mascara.

To obtain a satisfying make-up of the eye hair, mascaras must have a number of characteristics: they must be able to envelop the eye hair in a homogeneous and stable manner, make the eye hair longer and apply it quickly.

The mascaras used are generally wax-based. It has been found, however, that when wax is readily used after application to the eye hairs, a non-homogeneous film is obtained which leads to the formation of cracked layers immediately after drying. To overcome this drawback, the addition of various auxiliary substances to the wax has been proposed. By adding a thickening agent, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, the homogeneity of the film deposited on the eye hairs is improved. However, the stability of this film is insufficient because cracked layers reappear after a few hours. The extension of the eye hairs is also small.

It has also been proposed to add a cohesive agent such as colophane and derivatives thereof to the mixture of wax and thickener.

In addition, wax-based mascaras and anionic and cationic polymers are known.

Such mascaras completely envelop the eye hairs and effect a significant extension of the eye hair. Unfortunately, these make-up preparations require a certain application time to obtain a complete covering of the eye hairs.

US patent application SN 799,496 discloses mascaras containing wax and sulfonated keratin derivatives of formula -1, in which formula: - K represents the remainder of keratin; - M represents hydrogen, an alkali metal, magnesium or the group NR4-30, in which last formula the groups R are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group with at most 4 carbon atoms, the unit A being 3 up to 15% by weight of the keratin derivative.

The resulting mascaras can be applied more quickly, and considerably lengthen the eye hair and have good stability.

It has now been found that using another keratin derivative, a hydrolyzed keratin, also gives excellent results. The hydrolysed keratin has the advantage of being used in a smaller amount. In the description below, keratin hydrolyzate refers to a partially hydrolyzed ketine.

The invention therefore relates to a composition for making up eye hairs, or mascara, which contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one wax with a melting point between 60 and 110 ° C, which composition contains at least one keratin hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight between 50,000 and 200,000, the weight ratio between the amount of keratin hydrolyzate used and the amount of wax used being between 0.005 and 0.5.

Hydrolysates with a molecular weight close to 100,000 are particularly suitable.

When the molecular weight is less than 50,000, the mascara cannot provide sufficient coverage of the eye hairs. The film-forming properties of the mascara are then inadequate.

The keratin from which the keratin hydrolyzate is prepared can come from hair, wool, hooves, horn, fur, silk or feathers.

Such keratin is more preferably used than keratin derived from skins because it is richer in sulfur-containing compounds.

Keratin hydrolysates obtained by mild alkaline hydrolysis are preferably used.

In the case of alkaline hydrolysis, the keratin substance (hair, 25 fur, hooves, etc.) is treated with an inorganic base, such as caustic soda, caustic lye, barium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, sodium, potassium or lithium carbonate, sodium silicate or borax. The hydrolysis reaction is such that a product with an average molecular weight of more than 50,000 is obtained.

The keratin hydrolyzate gives good results in a relatively small amount between 0.05 and 5% by weight of the total of the composition.

The wax used generally has a melting point between 60 and 110 ° C and a needle penetration at 25 ° C of 3-40 as measured according to the US standard ASTM D5 or the French standard NFT 004. The principle of needle penetration measurement according to ASTM D5 and NFT 004 standards, measuring the depth, in tenths of a millimeter, to which a waxed normalized needle (weighing 2.5 g in a needle holder weighing 47.5 g , ie a total of 40 of 50 g), penetrates in 5 seconds.

8900858.

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The wax useful according to the invention is selected from animal, vegetable, mineral and synthetic waxes and various fractions of natural wax, which waxes all have the above characteristics.

Beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese white wax can be mentioned as animal wax.

Vegetable waxes may include carnauba wax, candellia wax, curicurm cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax and Japanese wax.

Mineral waxes include paraffins, microcrystalline wax, montan wax and ozokerites.

Particularly mentioned synthetic waxes are polyethylene wax, wax obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and esters thereof.

The useful species were known. According to the invention, the wax is present in the mascara compositions in amounts between 2 and 40% by weight of the total of the composition.

The wax useful according to the invention is preferably solid and hard at a temperature below 50 ° C.

The mascara composition according to the invention may contain pigments in addition to the keratin hydrolyzate and the wax. Due to the presence of the said keratin hydrolysates, a good distribution of these pigments in the compositions and an improved adhesion thereof to the eye hairs is achieved.

The pigments useful according to the invention are inorganic or organic pigments or iridescent pigments.

Examples of inorganic pigments may be mentioned titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), the surface of which may have been treated, indicated in the Color Index by Cl 77 891, black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, with codes Cl 77 499, 77 492, 77 491, manganese-30 purple (Cl 77 742), ultramarine blue (Cl 77 007), chromium oxide (Cl 77 288), chromium hydroxide (Cl 77 289) and Berlin blue (Cl 77 510).

The organic pigments are selected in particular from the dyes D and C red no. 19 (Cl 45 170), D and C red no. 9 (Cl 15 585), D and C red no. 21 (Cl 45 380), D and C orange no. 4 35 (Cl 15 510), D and C orange no. 5 (Cl 45 370), D and C red no. 27 (Cl 45 410), D and C red no. 13 (Cl 15 630), D and C red no. 7 (Cl 15 850), D and C red no. 6 (Cl 15 850), D and C yellow no. 5 (Cl 19 140), D and C red no. 36 ( Cl 12 085), D and C orange no. 10 (Cl 45 425), D and C yellow no. 6 (Cl 15 985), D and C red no. 30 40 (Cl 15 985), D and C red no. 30 (Cl 73 360), D and C red No. 3 8900858.

f 4 (Cl 45 430) and cochineal red lacquers (Cl 75 470).

The iridescent pigments can be selected from white iridescent pigments such as titanium dioxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, colored iridescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium-5 mica with Berlin blue, chromium oxide, etc., titanium mica with one of the aforementioned organic pigments and colored pigments based on of bismuth oxychloride.

When the pigments are used, they are present in amounts of 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total of the composition depending on the desired coloration and color intensity. In particular, the compositions of the invention may be in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or suspensions in a solvent medium, or in a solid form or an anhydrous paste form. Methods for the preparation of such compositions are known to the person skilled in the art.

When used in the form of emulsions, the compositions may contain per se known surfactants.

A particularly preferred embodiment consists of preparing anionic or non-ionic emulsions using anionic or non-ionic surfactants in amounts preferably between 2 and 30% by weight of the composition.

Particularly mentioned as anionic surfactants which can be used individually or mixed are potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and amino alcohol salts of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amide sulfates and ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, - alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates and alkane sulfonates, 30 - alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, - alkyl sulfosuccinamides, alkyl alkyl phenyl phosphylhercerol carboxylsulfosylcarboxylsulfosylcarboxylsulfosylcarboxylsulfosylcarboxylic acid alkyl isethionates and alkyl taurates.

In all these compounds, the alkyl group can be a chain of 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Other useful anionic surfactants are salts of fatty acids such as oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, copraoic acids and hydrogenated copraoic acids, and especially amine salts such as amine stearates.

Also can be mentioned: - acyl lactylates of which the acyl group contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms, - polyglycol ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

Alk - (0CH2-CH2) n - 0CH2 - C00H

in acid or salt form in which the group Alk represents a straight-chain chain with 12-18 carbon atoms and n is a number between 5 and 15.

Among the non-ionic surfactants that can be used individually or mixed, there may be mentioned in particular: alcohols, alkyl phenols and polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids having a fat chain of 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Also mentioned are copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides, polyethoxylated fatty amines, ethanolamides, fatty acid esters of glycol, whether or not ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose , fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols, phosphoric acid triesters and fatty acid esters of glucose derivatives.

Other compounds that appear in this group are condensation products of an α-diol, a monoalcohol, an alkylphenol, an amide or diglycolamide with glycidol or a glycidol precursor. These condensation products are in particular: 25 - those which conform to the formula: R4 - CHOH - CH2 - 0 - (CH2-CHOH - CH2 - 0) pH, wherein R4 is an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphatic group with preferably 7 represents up to 21 carbon atoms wherein the aliphatic group may contain ether, sulfide or hydroxymethylene groups and 30 µ is between 1 and 10, and mixtures thereof, as disclosed in French Patent 2 09 1 516; - those that meet the formula:

R5 O-C2H30 - (CH2OH) -3q-H

wherein R5 represents an alkyl, alkenyl or alkylaryl group and q is a statistical value between 1 and 10, as described in French Patent 1 477 048; - and those that meet the formula:

R6 -C0NH-CH2CH20-CH2CH20-eCH2-CH0H-CH20) -f — H

wherein RÉ> represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group optionally containing one or more hydroxy groups, with 8900858.

6 ft. Between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, of natural or synthetic origin, r represents a number from 1 to 5 and represents the average degree of condensation, and mixtures thereof, as described in French Patent Specification 2 328 763.

The non-ionic emulsions mainly consist of a mixture of oil and / or fatty alcohol, or polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl alcohol or cetyl stearyl alcohol.

The anionic emulsions are preferably based on amine stearates.

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the aforementioned constituents, conventional ingredients, in particular in the make-up compositions, such as emollients, preservatives, sequestering agents, perfumes, thickeners, oils, silicone, cohesive agents, polymers and in cosmetics. common alkalizing or acidifying agents.

The useful thickeners can be natural or synthetic. Of the natural thickeners, various gums can be mentioned, such as gum arabic, guar gum or carouba. Among the synthetic thickeners can be mentioned cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, starch derivatives, cellulose ether derivatives containing a quaternary ammonium group, cationic polysaccharides, salts of acrylic or methacrylic polymers, polyenes or polysiloxanes.

A thickener of the compositions can also be obtained by mixing polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate and / or distearate or by mixing phosphoric acid esters and fatty acid amides.

The compositions of the invention also contain ingredients known as a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a solvent or a mixture of aqueous or anhydrous solvents.

The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of a composition according to the invention in which a cosmetically acceptable carrier is combined with a wax with a melting point between 60 and 110 ° C and a keratin hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight between 50,000 and 200,000, wherein the weight ratio between the amount of keratin hydrolyzate and the amount was between 0.005 and 0.5.

The invention further relates to a method of making up the eye hairs using an above-described combination 8900858.

* 7> theorem.

In the examples below illustrating the invention, a keratin hydrolyzate is used, which is sold under the name "KERASOL" by the company CRODA CHEMICALS 5 LTD, and has an average molecular weight of 100,000 and the following composition in weight .% has.

- Isoleucine 4.9 - Leucine 10.6 10 - Lysine 5.5 - Methionine 1.5 - Cystine 2.0 - Phenylalanine 3.9 - Treonine 4.8 15 - Tyrosine 1.4 - Valine 5.2 - Arginine 7 , 6 - Histidine 3.8 - Alanine 4.2 20 - Aspargic acid 9.1 - Glutamic acid 11.4 - Glycine 3.3 - Proline 2.4 - Serine 8.3 25

This hydrolyzate is used in the form of a solution containing 14% protein hydrolyzate, 15% propylene glycol, 3% NaCl and 67% water with a pH between 5 and 7.

EXAMPLE I

A mascara with the following composition is prepared: - carnauba wax 5 g - candellia wax 5 g - ethanol 3 g 35 - organic modified montmorillonite 4 g - keratin hydrolyzate (dry weight) 0.3 g - talc 10 g - black iron oxide 10 g - isoparaffin up to 100 g 40

89 00 85 8.V

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For the preparation, the wax is heated to 80 ° C, the talc and pigments are added, and the modified montmorillonite and part of the isoparaffin are then added to the mixture. Keratin hydrolyzate, ethanol and the rest of the isoparaffin are added at about 40 ° C. The whole is ground.

This mascara gives a good make-up with a short application time by enveloping the eye hairs and increasing its length.

Examples II-VII below relate to emulsion mascara compositions. These mascaras are ready to use. Proceed as follows:

The wax is melted and the pigments are then incorporated. The water phase containing, if applicable, the gum and / or the hydroxyethyl cellulose and the keratin hydrolyzate is heated to the same temperature as the washing phase. The two phases are mixed and stirred vigorously.

The mascaras thus obtained with the composition mentioned below require relatively short application times and nevertheless give good make-up results.

EXAMPLE II

Mascara composition: - tri ethanolamine stearate 15 g - beeswax 8 g 25 - paraffin 3 g - colophane 2 g - ozokerite 10 g - propyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.20 g - methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.20 g 30 - gum arabic 0.50 g - Keratin hydrolyzate (dry weight) 0.15 g - Black iron oxide 5 g - Alumino-silicate polysulfide 5 g - Water up to 100 g 35

EXAMPLE III

Mascara composition 1 i ng: 89 00 85 8.

$ 9 t - 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol stearate 25 g - candellia wax 5 g - beeswax 8 g 5 - methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.15 g - propyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.15 g - carauba gum 3 g - xanthan gum 3 g - keratin hydrolyzate (dry weight) 0.08 g 10 - black iron oxide 8 g - water up to 100 g

EXAMPLE IV

Mascara composition: 15 - triethanol amine stearate 20 g - microcrystalline wax 5 g - carnauba wax 10 g - beeswax 3 g 20 - imidazolidinyl urea 0.30 g - propyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.15 g - gum carrier 5 g - keratin hydrolyzate (dry weight) 0, 60 g - black iron oxide 5 g 25 - water up to 100 g

EXAMPLE V

Mascara composition: 30 - triethanol amine stearate 15 g - candellia wax 8 g - carnauba wax 10 g - hydroethyl cellulose 0.9 g - keratin hydrolyzate (dry weight) 0.75 g 35 - black iron oxide 8 g - methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.15 g propyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.15 g water to 100 g 8900858-10

EXAMPLE VI

Mascara composition: - tri ethanol amine stearate 10 g 5 - candellia wax 15 g - beeswax 17 g - xanthan gum 1 g - keratin hydrolyzate (dry weight) 0.15 g - black iron oxide 5 g 10 - aluminosilicate polysulfide (ultramarine) 4 g - preservative as needed - water up to 100 g

EXAMPLE VII

Mascara composition: - tri ethanolamine stearate 10 g - carnauba wax 8 g - beeswax 8 g 20 - keratin hydrolyzate (dry weight) 1 g - black iron oxide 5 g - aluminosilicate polysulfide 4 g - preservative as required - water up to 100 g 25

EXAMPLE VIII

An anhydrous mascara in bar form is prepared with the following composition: 30 - tri ethanolamine stearate 25 g - beeswax 6 g - microcrystalline wax 22 g - saturated fatty acid glyderides 11 g - methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.15 g 35 - propyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.15 g - gum arabic 5.70 g - keratin hydrolyzate (dry extract) 0.25 g - red iron oxide 5 g - black iron oxide 5 g 40 8900858.

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Before the preparation, the wax is melted and the pigments are added. The gum arabic and the keratin hydrolyzate are taken up and ground under heating. Then the other ingredients are added.

The whole is melted again and poured into casting molds with gentle stirring.

With this mascara you get a good make-up of the eye hairs in a very short application time.

8900858.

Claims (20)

1. Cosmetic preparation for making up the eye hair with at least one wax with a melting point between 60 and 110 ° C in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, characterized in that it contains at least one keratin hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight between 50,000 and 200,000 and the weight ratio between the amount of keratin hydrolyzate used and the amount used was between 0.005 and 0.5. 2. A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the keratin hydrolyzate has a molecular weight in the region of 100,000. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the keratin hydrolyzate comes from hair, wool, hooves, horn, fur, silk or feathers. 4. A composition according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that the wax is an animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic wax or comprises one or more fractions of natural wax, or is a mixture thereof. 5, D and C red no. 27, D and C red no. 13, D and C red no. 7, D and C red no. 6, D and C yellow no. 5, D and C red no. 36, D and C orange no. 5 10, D and C yellow no. 6, D and C red no. 30, D and C red no. 3, and / or a cochineal red lacquer. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the animal wax is beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese white wax. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the vegetable wax is carnauba wax, candellia wax, curicuri wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax and / or Japanese wax. 7. A composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the mineral wax is a paraffin, microcrystalline wax, montan wax and / or ozoite. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the synthetic wax is a polyethylene wax, a Fisher-Tropsch synthesis wax, a waxy copolymer and / or an ester thereof. 9. A composition according to any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that it contains 2 to 40% by weight of wax. 10. A composition according to any one of claims 1-9, characterized in that it contains 0.05-5% by weight of keratin hydrolyzate. 11. A composition according to any one of claims 1-10, characterized in that it also contains an inorganic, organic and / or iridescent pigment. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the inorganic pigment, the surface of which is optionally treated, is titanium dioxide, black, yellow, red and / or brown iron oxide, manganese purple, ultramarine, chloromoxide, chromium hydroxide and / or Berlin blue. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the 89008587 * x organic pigment is one or more of the pigments D and C red no. 19, D and C red no. 9, D and C red no. 21, D and C orange no. 4, D and C orange no. 14. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the iridescent pigment comprises a titanium oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide-colored titanium mica, Berlin-blue-colored titanium mica, Berlin-blue-colored titanium mica, chromium oxide and the like, with one of the organic pigments according to claim 13 are colored titanium mica and / or colored bismuth oxychloride. Composition according to any one of claims 11-14, characterized in that it contains 3-20% by weight of pigment (s). A composition according to any one of claims 1-15, characterized in that it is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion or of a suspension in a solvent medium or solid form or has an anhydrous pasty form. 17. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it contains 2-30% by weight of a surfactant. 18. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it contains at least one adjuvant selected from softeners, preservatives, sequestrants, perfumes, thickeners, oils, polysiloxanes, cohesive agents, polymers and alkalizing and acidifying agents. Process for preparing a composition according to any one of claims 1-18, characterized in that a cosmetically acceptable carrier is combined with a wax having a melting point between 60 and 110 ° C and a keratin hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight between 30 50,000 and 200,000 and the keratin hydrolyzate and the wax were used in a weight ratio of between 0.005 and 0.5. A method of making up eye hair using a composition according to any one of claims 1-18. +++++++++++++ 89 0085 8.