MXPA99011437A - Aqueous carrier systems for water-insoluble materials - Google Patents

Abstract

Se expone una composición que contiene por lo menos un fosfolípido orgánico capaz de formar bicapas en solución acuosa;por lo menos un surfactante anfotérico presente en una cantidad en peso igual o mayor a la cantidad del fosfolípido, y por lo menos un surfactante no iónico presente en una cantidad en peso igual o mayor a la cantidad del fosfolípido. La invención se relaciona también con un sistema de suministro para ingredientes insolubles en agua que contiene a los componentes anteriores, por lo menos un ingrediente insoluble en agua y una fase acuosa, en donde el fosfolípido orgánico, el surfactante anfotérico y el surfactante no iónico están presentes en una cantidad combinada suficiente para permitir que el ingrediente insoluble en agua sea incorporado al sistema. Un método para tratar substancias queratinosas también se expone.

Description

AQUEOUS CARRIER SYSTEMS FOR INSOLUBLE MATERIALS IN WATER DECLARATION OF RELATED REQUESTS This application is a continuation in part of the U.S. Application Copendent Serial No. 08 / 871,524, filed June 9, 1997, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to novel carrier systems based on organic phospholipids capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, nonionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, wherein these carrier systems allow water insoluble materials such as lipophilic materials and polymers, resins or insoluble latexes in water are incorporated into the aqueous solutions.

PREVIOUS TECHNIQUE Organic phospholipids play an important role in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry due to their excellent physiological properties, such as, for example, emulsifying, softening and antiant properties. When hydrolyzed, phospholipids P958 organic provide phosphoric acid, an alcohol, a fatty acid and a nitrogenous base. Most ospholipids are unfriendly, that is they have polar "heads" and non-polar "tails". As a result, most phospholipids have to be arranged spontaneously in a bilayer, when they are suspended in an aqueous environment, where the polar heads are brought into contact with the water and the non-polar tails are brought into contact with each other. Most phospholipids that occur naturally prefer to form vesicular bilayers in aqueous solutions. In this bilayer vesicle, the non-polar part of the phospholipid has any contact with the water solution. Due to their non-polar portions, phospholipids are typically insoluble in water and are incompatible with many water-soluble anionic compounds, for example anionic surfactants. While they can be solubilized in water at low levels by a range of surfactants, this is not usually achieved easily. In contrast, solubilization has been conventionally achieved using specific solubilization agents in aqueous alcoholic solutions. For example, U.S. Patent No. 4,874,553 to Hager et al. analyzes methods to make mixtures of P958 phospholipids are water soluble or water dispersible using certain amine compounds as solubilizing agents. U.S. Patent No. 4,174,296 to Kass discloses the method for improving the solubility of phospholipid compounds in water, in particular lecithin compounds, by mixing the lecithin with specific simple solubilizing agents, including amphoteric and anionic surfactants. These methods use alcohol for cosolubilization. The alcohol solutions can present problems of breaking any bilayer formation by altering the solutions so that the alcohol functions as a secondary solvent. Lecithins and other phospholipids have been used in the pharmaceutical industry to formulate carriers for water insoluble drugs. For example, U.S. Patent No. 5,173,303 to Lau et al. , is an insoluble material in water encapsulated by vesicles composed of phospholipids such as lecithin .. Ribosa et al., in "Physico-chemical modifications of liposome structures through interaction with surfactants," Int. Journal of Cosmetic Science 14: 131-149 ( 1992), also analyzes the solubilization of phospholipids by the interaction of liposomes with surfactants. Lau and Ribosa however investigate only diluted solutions of pure liposomes.

P958 Despite the difficulties in solubilization, certain organic phospholipids such as lecithin can advantageously provide the hair and the skin with a soft and moist feeling when they have a strong affinity for the hydrophobic surface of the hair and skin. In addition, these phospholipids are tologically safe. It will therefore be desirable for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications to provide delivery systems that include these organic phospholipids as carriers of other lipophilic ingredients., without the need for alcohols and other similar solvents. In addition to solubilizing lipophilic ingredients such as oils, vitamins and ceramides in aqueous systems, it would be desirable to solubilize other water-insoluble ingredients, specifically partially neutralized or non-neutralized polymers, as well as resins or latexes in aqueous delivery systems. U.S. Patent No. 5,391,368 to Gerstein shows the solubilization of a hair styling polymer in a composition comprising an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. According to Gerstein, the amphoteric surfactant is the one that dissolves the water insoluble combing polymer because the polymer is not soluble only in the anionic surfactant.

Gerstein presents certain problems. Many hair fixation and care products are formulated with an acidic pH due to the desire for such products to be compatible with the pH of the scalp and the hair surface. Gerstein does not expose a pH at which his system can be formulated, but if the Gerstein system is acidic, the polymer will precipitate from the solution. In addition, the Gerstein system has no suggestion that it can carry additional lipophilic ingredients in its blend of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and styling polymers. In addition, Gerstein does not describe the incorporation of his styling polymer into any product other than the styling shampoo that is exposed, and Gerstein does not suggest that this incorporation may be possible. Therefore, there is a need for an aqueous delivery system that can solubilize water-insoluble materials, in particular, lipophilic materials, partially neutralized or unneutralized polymers, resin or latex, wherein the water-insoluble materials are not will precipitate from the solution during acidification, where the amount of deposition of the insoluble material in water can be controlled and where the system could lead to other ingredients besides the insoluble ingredients in water.

For example, it would be beneficial to have a system incorporating water insoluble materials in compositions containing other ingredients, for example permanent waving and dyeing compositions. The present invention provides this delivery system.

EXPOSITION OF THE INVENTION In order to achieve these and other advantages, the present invention is directed to a composition made from at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least a non-ionic surfactant. The nonionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant are each present in an amount equal to or greater than the amount of the organic phospholipid. In another embodiment, the present invention relates to an aqueous delivery system for water-insoluble materials. The delivery system (or "carrier") includes the above-described composition in addition to at least one water-insoluble ingredient and an aqueous phase. The nonionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant are preferably each present in an amount equal to or greater than the amount of the organic phospholipid. The organic phospholipid, the amphoteric surfactant and the nonionic surfactant are present in a sufficient combined amount to allow the water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into or solubilized by the delivery system. The present invention is also directed to a process for the preparation of an aqueous system comprising: (a) combining at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one surfactant amphoteric to form a mixture; (b) heating the mixture obtained in step (a), (c) adding an aqueous solution to form a diluted mixture, and (d) cooling the diluted mixture. The insoluble ingredients in water can be incorporated in step (a). Finally, in still another embodiment, the present invention is directed to a method for treating keratinous substances. U.S. Patent No. 4,874,553 to Hager et al. First an aqueous solution is prepared containing at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount equal to or greater than the amount of the organic phospholipid, at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid and at least one water-insoluble ingredient. The phospholipid, the amphoteric surfactant and the nonionic surfactant are present in a sufficient combined amount to allow the insoluble ingredients in water to be incorporated into the aqueous solution. The aqueous solution is then applied to keratinous substances. Reference will now be made in detail to the preferred embodiments of this invention.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Advantageously, the present invention allows the water insoluble materials or ingredients to be solubilized in an aqueous solution. Alcohol is not required for cosolubilization and the preparation of liposomes is not needed. In addition, when the water evaporates, the leaving residue includes the insoluble material in water and / or the phospholipid. The composition of the invention is also easy to formulate and gentle on the hair, skin and eyelashes because the surfactant used is generally mild. Unlike the attempted solubilization of the phospholipids in the prior art, the present invention requires the presence of at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant in the concentrated phospholipid solutions. The compositions and delivery systems of the present invention readily deposit organic phospholipid / water-insoluble substances on hair, skin and eyelashes and due to their inherent insolubility, resist washout with water. Accordingly, these compositions and delivery systems can be used in hair shampoos, conditioners, hair dyeing compositions, including oxidative dyes and bleaching agents, permanent waving compositions, curl relaxation compositions, hair setting composition, hair products. body and bath, sunscreen or cosmetics such as masks and bases. These systems can also be used to deliver water-insoluble active pharmaceutical ingredients, particularly in topical applications. These systems can also help protect against oxidation and rancidity by protecting sensitive ingredients in pharmaceutical compounds or foods. Additionally, the "load" carried by these systems can be quite high, a benefit that rewards both the user and the manufacturer, in an economic gain. The charge is defined as the weight of an added hydrophobe (water-insoluble material) divided by the weight of the phospholipid, expressed as a percentage. Therefore, 1 g of the hydrophobe in a composition with 5 g of phospholipid is 1/5 or 20% filler. In the art, 50% is considered a high load and can be achieved with certain combinations of hydrophobes and surfactant. Without being limited by a particular theory, the inventors consider that in the composition of the present invention an organized structure, similar to a lamellar gel, is formed between the organic phospholipid and the nonionic surfactant and is solubilized by the amphoteric surfactant. The organized structure may incorporate other water-insoluble or hydrophobic materials. In aqueous systems, the structure is organized, as evidenced by the clarity of the solution, exhibiting a slight light scattering effect Tyndall and when concentrated, shows lamellar anisotropic structures under polarized light. Therefore, one embodiment of the invention deals with a composition comprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one surfactant or ionic, wherein the nonionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactants are each present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid. Neither the amphoteric surfactant nor the nonionic surfactant alone will provide a satisfactory solution with the organic phospholipids. When the phospholipids are dissolved in either amphoteric surfactant or a non-ionic surfactant, the solubility of the phospholipid is poor compared to the solubility in the surfactant mixture of the present invention. In relation to the ingredients of the composition of the invention, the preferred organic phospholipids capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution with lecithins. Lecithins are mixtures of phospholipids, that is to say diglycerides of fatty acids bound to an ester of phosphoric acid. Preferably, lecithins are diglycerides of stearic, palmitic and oleic acid bound to the choline ester of phosphoric acid. Lecithin is usually defined as either pure phosphatidyl choline or as crude mixtures of phospholipids including phosphatidyl choline, fostadyl serine, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl inositol, other phospholipids and a variety of other compounds such as fatty acids, triglycerides, sterols, carbohydrates and glycolipids. The lecithin used in the present invention may be present in the form of a liquid, powder or granules. Lecithins useful in the invention include, but are not limited to, soy lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin. For example, ALCOLEC is a soy lecithin fluid, ALCOLEC F 100 is a soy lecithin powder and ALCOLEC Z3 is a hydroxylated lecithin, all of which are obtained from American Lecithin Company.

P958 In the present invention, the lecithin is preferably used in an amount greater than 0 to about 5% by weight of the composition as a whole. Since lecithin itself is not a pure raw material and can have glycerides, glycerin, free fatty acids and soaps, adjustments need to be made in the proportion to be made, that is, a source of lecithin may require different proportions between non-surfactants. ionic and amphoteric than other lecithin, to achieve maximum clarity of solution. Preferably, the composition of the invention forms a clear solution, although the purposes of the invention are achieved equally effectively with a slightly cloudy solution. In addition to lecithins, another group of phospholipids for the present invention, such as multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids, may be useful. For example, the following multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids manufactured by Mona Industries may be useful: PHOSPHOLIPID PTC, PHOSPHOLIPID CDM, PHOSPHOLIPID SV, PHOSPHOLIPID GLA, and PHOSPHOLIPID EFA. Amphoteric surfactants useful in the present invention, include, but are not limited to, betalnes, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphipipropionates and imidazolines or salts thereof. It is recognized that other condensates of P958 fatty acid, such as those formed with amino acids, proteins and the like are suitable. Cocamidopropionate is particularly preferred, for example concentrated MIRANOL C2M-SF (disodium cocoanfodipropionate) in its free salt form, available from Rhéne-Poulenc. Also preferred is CROSULTANA C-50 (cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine), available from Croda. Amphoteric surfactants are preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight of the composition as a whole, when 5% of the organic phospholipid, preferably lecithin, is used. When the phospholipid / amphoteric surfactant / nonionic surfactant system is used as a carrier for a water or resin insoluble polymer, the amphoteric surfactants are preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 15 to 25% by weight. When the phospholipid / amphoteric surfactant / nonionic surfactant system is employed as a carrier for a lipophilic material, the amphoteric surfactant is preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 10 to 20% wt%. Other amphoteric surfactants useful in the present invention include disodium PEG-2 germinated wheat sulfosuccinate, available under the tradename MACKANATE WGD from P958 Mclntyre Group Ltd. and disodium soyandodiacetate, available under the tradename MACKAM 2S from Mclntyre Group Ltd. The nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention are preferably formed from a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a glycerin with a chain of carbon Ca to C2Í, preferably C12 to C18, more preferably C16 to C18, derivatized to give a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of at least 10. The HLB is understood as the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the strength size of the lipophilic surfactant group. These derivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates, polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates, polysorbates and others that would be apparent to those skilled in the art. These derivatives can also be mixed polymers of the foregoing, such as, for example, the ethoxylate / propoxylate species, where total HLB is preferably greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, the nonionic surfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of 10. to 25, more preferably from 10 to 20 moles. The non-ionic surfactants can be selected, for example only, from the following: P958 # of carbons Name Trade name C-12 Laureth-23 BRIJ 35, available from ICI Surfactants C-16 Ceteth-10 BRIJ 36, available from ICI Surfactants C-16 Ceteth-20 BRIJ 58, available from ICI Surfactants C-16 IsoCeteth-20 Arlosolve 200, available from ICI Surfactants C-18 Steareth-10 Volpo S.10, available from Croda Chemicals Ltd. C- 18 Steareth-16 Solulan-16, available from Amerchol Corp. C-18 Steareth-20 BRIJ 78, available from ICI Surfactants C-18 Steareth-25 Solulan-25, available from Amerchol Corp. C-18 = Oleth-10 BRIJ 97 , available from ICI Surfactants C-18 = Oleth-20 Volpo-20, available from Croda Chemicals Ltd. Alkyl polyglucose surfactants sold under the name PLANTAREN, available from Henkel, may also be used. The nonionic surfactants are preferably present in an amount of between about 5 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the whole composition, when 5% lecithin is used, more preferably the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount of between about 10 and 20% by weight. In a preferred embodiment of the composition of P958 the present invention, the organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, the amphoteric surfactant and the nonionic surfactant are present in the composition so that the nonionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant are each present in an amount in weight greater than the amount of the phospholipid. In a more preferred embodiment, the amount of phospholipid in the composition remains fixed while the amounts of the amphoteric surfactants increase. In yet another preferred embodiment, by calculating the phospholipid as present at a value of 1, the phospholipid, the amphoteric surfactant and the nonionic surfactant are preferably present in the composition in a ratio ranging from about 1: 2: 2 higher , in relation to weight in relation to the integral composition, that is to say where the quantity of the surfactants can be increased independently of each one, but the amount of the phospholipid remains fixed. The ratio is considered as "higher" than 1: 2: 2 when the amount of any of the surfactants increases. When the phospholipid / amphoteric / non-ionic system is employed as a carrier for a lipophilic material, the ratio of preference varies from about 1: 3: 2 and above. When the phospholipid / amphoteric / non-ionic system is used as a carrier of a polymer insoluble in water or a resin, the P958 ratio of preference is approximately 1: 3: 3 and higher and more preferably higher than approximately 1: 3: 4. The carrying capacity for the hydrologues carried by the delivery system of this invention is maximized if the ratio of the nonionic surfactant to the phospholipid is kept to a minimum, and the bilayers are still solubilized, due to an excess of non-ionic surfactant that It can destroy the organized structure. In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises ALCOLEC S (soy lecithin), MIRANOL C2M-SF Concentrate (disodium cocoanfodipropionate, an amphoteric surfactant), ARLASOLVE 200 (IsoCeteth-20 a non-ionic surfactant) in a ratio of 5%. : 15: 10 (1: 3: 2) when a lipophilic ingredient insoluble in water and 5:15:20 (1: 3: 4) is used when a polymer insoluble in water, a resin or a latex is used, where the proportions are calculated by weight in relation to the entire composition. In general, the preferred compositions of the invention are known as "LAN" because they contain a lecithin (L), an amphoteric surfactant (A) and a nonionic (N) surfactant. Although lecithin is particularly preferred, the amphoteric and nonionic surfactants may vary. When used as an ingredient in other P958 formulations, LAN is compatible and generally provides clear solutions with anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulphates and ethoxylated alkyl sulphates. Other anionic surfactants, such as sulfosuccinates, can also be used. Typically LAN compositions can withstand storage at 45 ° C for three months or more, which could predict that they have a shelf life at room temperature of at least three years. In another aspect, the present invention relates to an aqueous carrier or delivery system comprising: at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in the aqueous solution, at least one nonionic surfactant preferably present in an amount greater than or equal to the amount of the phospholipid, at least one amphoteric surfactant preferably present in an amount greater than or equal to the amount of the phospholipid, at least one water-soluble ingredient and an aqueous phase. The lecithin, the non-ionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant are present in a sufficient combined amount to allow the at least one water-soluble ingredient to be incorporated into the aqueous system or solubilized thereby. The amount sufficient for the solubilization may vary depending on the type of composition, for example, shampoo and mask formulations require a lower concentration of LAN P958 regarding the conditioner, deep treatment, bleaching, permanent waving, dyeing and relaxing compositions. Water-insoluble materials, or water insoluble ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following: (1) "Ingredients" or lipophilic "materials" such as silicones, oil-soluble vitamins such as vitamin E and vitamin A, sunscreens, ceramides and natural oils: The lipophilic ingredients can be in the form of sunscreens, bacteriostats, humectants, colors, topical pharmaceutical agents and the like. Preferred lipophilic ingredients include: Vitamin E, Vitamin E acetate, Vitamin A palmitate, olive oil, mineral oil, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, octylmethoxy cinnamate, octyl salicylate and silicones such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone. , dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol and laurylmethicone copolyol. The lipophilic ingredients, for example, will moisturize or condition the skin, hair and / or eyelashes and will not leave an oily sensation. (2) Water-insoluble polymers, resins and latexes that are not neutralized or partially neutralized, wherein the polymers and resins include, but are not limited to, those containing carboxyl entities, such as acrylates and other carboxy polymers.

P958 Typically, water insoluble resins and polymers have to be neutralized in approximately 90% of their carboxyl portions to make them soluble in water in order to formulate products in aqueous solution and in order to make products having good properties in the sense of not creating deposits, that is, they can be easily removed by washing the hair, after use. However, when used with the compositions of the present invention, little or no neutralization is needed to dissolve these polymers / resins. In part, a non-neutralized or partially neutralized water insoluble polymer or resin is solubilized because it is neutralized by the amphoteric surfactant contained in the delivery system as claimed herein, but the amphoteric surfactant acting alone will not solubilize the polymer or the resin in water and allow the pH to be acidic. As discussed in connection with the prior Gerstein patent, if the polymer or resin is neutralized by the amphoteric surfactant alone, when attempting to acidify the solution to prepare a hair care composition with an acidic pH, as is desirable, the carboxyl portions of the polymer or resin will remain unneutralized and precipitation will occur. It is the combination of the organic phospholipid, the non-ionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant of the P958 present invention what achieves the solubility of water-insoluble resins or polymers. As for latex, these have generally been used in cosmetics in a non-neutralized form since they are used to give a milky (insoluble) appearance. In the context of the present invention, the water-insoluble latexes are neutralized, however, at an alkaline pH and dissolve, producing a clear solution. According to the most extensive knowledge of the inventors, the latexes used have not previously been used in cosmetic compositions. In the case of unneutralized or partially neutralized resins or polymers, where these substances are applied to the hair or to the skin from an alcoholic or aqueous / alcoholic system, their ability to wash off from the hair leaves much to be desired. In contrast, when these polymers or resins are applied in a delivery system comprising at least one organic phospholipid, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount equal to or greater than the amount of the organic phospholipid, the polymers or resins can be easily removed by rinsing the hair (without -accumulation) while providing a strong fixation of the curls, P958 if a curling is desired. The following are examples of polymers that can be incorporated in the delivery system of the present invention. This list is not intended to be limiting: * AMPHOMER LV-71 from National Starch (octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer), * OMN REZ-2000 of ISP (hemietilyester copolymer PVM / MA), * RESYN 28-2930 from National Starch (vinyl acetate copolymer, erotonates / vinyl neodecanoate), * LUVIMER 100P from BASF (t-butyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / methacrylic acid) and * ULTRAHOLD STRONG from BASF (acrylic acid) / ethyl acrylate / t-butylacrylamide). Water insoluble latexes, not neutralized or partially neutralized, have been used as film formers in various applications. The following are latexes that can be incorporated into the delivery system of the present invention: * AMERHOLD DR-25 from Amerchol (acrylic acid / methacrylic acid / acrylates / methacrylates), * LUVIMER 36D from BASF (ethyl acrylate / t-acrylate) butyl / methacrylic acid) and * ACUDYNE 258 from Rohm & Haas (acrylic acid / acrylic acid / acrylates / acrylates / hydroxy ester acrylates).

P958 Up to 60% by weight of each of these polymers / resins / latex were dissolved in 35% solutions of phospholipid / amphoteric surfactant / nonionic surfactant where the phospholipid was lecithin and the ratio between lecithin: amphoteric: non-ionic was 1 : 3: 4 All solutions were clear, indefinitely dilutable with water without precipitation and stable after 2 months of storage. The aqueous phase of the delivery system of the invention may contain other ingredients such as anionic surfactants, organic salts, inorganic salts, proteins, hair dyes, water soluble polymers, quaternary ammonium compounds, complexes and simple carbohydrates, amino acids, preservatives and fragrances In the system of the invention they are to be used in the concentrated form, ie with approximately 5% by weight of the organic phospholipid and 1% of the water-insoluble ingredient added, the composition preferably having a pH ranging from 4 to 12, for maximum stability and clarity. The more concentrated the solution, the better the supply or administration will be. If this mixture is diluted with water or the mixture is used as an ingredient in another composition, then the pH has a wider range that is preferably P958 varies between 2 and 12 and a wider variety of additives may be included in the solution. When water is added to a concentrated LAN, it can apparently form a hazy solution first, if a large amount of water is added at one time. However, the LAN will eventually be solubilized and clarified or at least a clearer solution will remain. The time it takes to clear up decreases as the LAN ratio increases. Once the organized structure of the LAN is formed, the addition of more water does not affect clarity. These dissolution mixtures are still very effective in the supply of water-insoluble ingredients. The mixtures can be lyophilized to give hygroscopic solids that redissolve in water. The encapsulation of these solids, so that they do not absorb or retain excess moisture, is also contemplated. These encapsulated solids can have desirable storage properties and will be easy to dissolve in water at different dilutions. It is understandable the need for the dilution to vary depending on the insoluble material in water to be used. Another embodiment of the present invention is directed to a process for preparing the aqueous system of this invention. The process comprises: (a) combining the following ingredients to obtain a mixture; at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in P958 aqueous solution, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, wherein the nonionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant are each present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the organic phospholipid; (b) heating the mixture obtained in step (a); and (c) adding an aqueous solution to the heated mixture to obtain the desired carrier system. The insoluble ingredients in water can be added in step (a). Preferably the carrier system obtained can carry a high load (ie, 50% is considered a high load) of the organic phospholipid / water-insoluble ingredient. The mixture is preferably heated to a temperature of 65 ° C to 85 ° C, depending on the melting points of the solid surfactants. More specifically, the preparation of the carrier system of the present invention can be carried out in the following manner. Lecithin (L) is dispersed in water. The water insoluble material is combined with nonionic surfactant (N) at suitable proportions and lecithin / water dispersion is added. An amphoteric surfactant (A) is added and the mixture is heated, preferably at a temperature of 75 ° C to 85 ° C. The combination of these ingredients results in a solution that is clear to slightly cloudy and referred to as P958 the "LAN", which can then be used as "raw material" to produce the finished products. Alternatively, the lecithin, the surfactant or amphoteric surfactants and the surfactant or non-ionic surfactants can be weighed at suitable proportions and heated to 70 ° C with agitation. Then water is added in sufficient quantity at the same temperature. Another alternative method of preparation comprises adding the insoluble ingredient in water with mixing after the solution has cooled. This last alternative method helps protect water insoluble and heat sensitive ingredients. The resulting compositions may vary from clear to slightly cloudy and are infinitely dilutable with water. The slight cloudiness can be overcome by adjusting the ratio of lecithin to the surfactant, adjusting the pH or reducing the concentrations of insoluble ingredients in water. In another embodiment, the present invention is directed to a method for treating keratinous substances such as, but not limited to, hair, skin or eyelashes. First, an aqueous solution containing at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution is prepared; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight greater than or equal to P958 amount of the phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid; and at least one ingredient insoluble in water. The phospholipid, the amphoteric surfactant and the nonionic surfactant are present in a sufficient combined amount to allow the water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into the aqueous solution. The aqueous solution is then applied to the keratinous substances. The term "treating" in the context of the invention includes, without limitation, shampooing, conditioning, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing, fixing, wetting and make-up, for example the application of a mask or base. As previously mentioned, the carrier system and the composition of this invention can be used as an ingredient in itself, for example, shampoos, conditioners (of the type that are rinsed and not rinsed), deep treatments for hair, washes for the body, bath gels, hair dye compositions, formulations for permanent waving, hair styling, make-up preparations and in particular masks and bases and creams and lotions for the skin. In relation to the hair products, the carrier system of the present invention can be used P958 to formulate products for hair, for example for normal hair, color treated hair, dyed hair, fine hair and damaged hair. For each type of hair the LAN can be used to create a regimen comprising shampoo, conditioner and deep treatment ie deep conditioner. The LAN compositions used for these products preferably contain lecithin (L), at least one amphoteric surfactant CA), for example disodium cocoamphodipropionate, and at least one nonionic surfactant (N), for example a mixture of Oleth-10 and PPG-5-Ceteth-20. Other non-ionic, amphoteric and also anionic surfactants can be added. The LAN compositions may also contain at least one water-insoluble ingredient (also referred to as a hydrophobe) such as olive oil, mineral oil or other oils, octyl salicylate, Vitamin E (Tocopherol), octyl methoxycinnamate and ceramides. including 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecanediol. In general, the concentration of the LAN increases within each regime, from the application of shampoo to the application of conditioner to deep treatment. Therefore, deep treatment formulations have the most concentrated hydrophobic carrier LAN. The LAN systems of the present invention can P958 also be associated, in the hair products described above, with proteins including hydrolyzed soy protein, lauryldimonial hydrolyzed soy protein (cationic soy protein) and wheat amino acids. The proteins may also include corn, wheat, milk or silk proteins, collagens, keratins or others. In addition, taurine hydrochloride and arginine may be associated therewith to maximize the binding of the protein to the hair. Cationic proteins or proteins in general can be LAN stabilizers and improve their supply by changing the load on the surface of the LAN structure. The cationic ingredients of attraction of the skin and hair and proteins in general are substantive for these tissues. In conditioning emulsions, non-ionic emulsifiers such as glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate can be used, and the LAN is treated as a water-insoluble, particularly lipophilic, ingredient. Other ingredients in hair care compositions with LAN may include cationic polymers, for example polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22 and polyquaternium 32, cationic conditioners such as quaternium 27, P958 behenamidopropyl PG-dimonic chloride, hydroxyethyl-sebodimonium chloride, hexadimethrine chloride, stearalkonium chloride and certhio onium chloride, isoparaffins, sodium chloride, propylene glycol, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben and propylparaben, pH adjusters as "acid" phosphoric, humectants such as trehalose and emollients such as octyldodecanol Many other examples of materials from the above-mentioned classes are readily known to those skilled in the art.In addition, shampoos, conditioners and deep treatments within the scope of the present invention can be used on hair that has already been treated, for example with color (dyes or discoloration) or chemical agents (permanent wavy or straightened) or that is dry or fine hair and where it is shown that a significant substantivity is imparted to the hair. better with the following examples, which are intended to be illustrative of it and not limiting.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1: Determination of Solubility Parameters in Surfactant Mixtures 5 g of lecithin were dissolved in mixtures of P958 MIRANOL C2M-SF Conc. (Amphoteric surfactant) and ARLASOLVE 200 (Iso-Ceteth-20, non-ionic surfactant). The insoluble ingredient in water (lipophilic) was olive oil. The results are shown in the following Tables 1 and 2.

TABLE 1: Optimization of the LAN Ratio Containing Olive Oil In Table 1, lecithin was set at 5 g and various proportions of LAN were studied as a function of loading from 20 to 100%. (Load equal to the added lipophilic weight divided by the weight of lecithin). At the lowest proportions of surfactants compared to lecithin, only 20% load was achieved. In other words, for the 1: 3: 2 ratio, the LAN solution was clear only at a load of 0.2 or 20%. As the proportion of surfactants to lecithin increased, the organized structure broke down. Therefore, even when LANs that have the largest proportions of surfactants to lecithin can theoretically carry more lipophilic, the optimal results are P958 achieve a minimum of surfactant with a maximum of lecithin. The results show that a ratio of 1: 3: 2 provides a clear and dilutable mixture with olive oil.

TABLE 2 Optimization of the Quantity of Non-ionic and Amphoteric Sulfates * optimal ratio Table 2 does not consider lipophilic load. The amounts of amphoteric and nonionic surfactants varied over a wide range of concentrations around pair of points that are clear at a 20% load in Table 1 (1: 3: 2) and (1: 3: 3). The table shows that the P958 LAN ratio made a difference in the clarity of the solution. When the amount of nonionic surfactant increased, the solutions remained clear but the amount decreased, the solutions became nebulous. The ratio between amphoteric surfactant and non-ionic surfactant is maintained at a certain level so that optimal results are obtained but the total concentration of surfactants also plays a role. For example when the ratio of amphoteric surfactant to nonionic surfactant was kept at 3: 2 and the total concentration of surfactant decreased in relation to lecithin (ie from 1: 3: 2 to 1: 2.4: 1.6, which is the same proportion but is different in relation to the concentrations) the result was a hazy solution. In this case, increasing the non-ionic surfactant to 2.0, for example, did not clarify the mixture at this weight of lecithin. The dilution capacity of the solutions above the 1: 2: 2 ratio (5:10:10) was infinite, although at that proportion the solutions were not very clear. At a LAN ratio of 1: 3: 2 the solution was both clear and infinitely dilutable.

EXAMPLE 2: Solubility Study of Lipophilic Ingredients The solubility of 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecanediol P958 (a ceramide) and olive oil, as a lipophilic ingredient, normally used in hair care products, is evaluated in a mixture comprising 5 g of lecithin and varying amounts of MIRANOL C2M-SF Conc. And ARLASOLVE 200. Both 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecanediol as olive oil at a level of 1% formed a clear and stable lecithin solution with 15% (15 g) of MIRANOL and 10% (10 g) of ARLASOLVE. Therefore the lipophilic ones were better solubilized with a LAN ratio of 1: 3: 2.

EXAMPLE 3: Study of the HLB Values Using different proportions of the nonionic surfactants BRIJ 72 (HLB 4.9) and BRIJ 700 (HLB 18.8) an HLB interval of 5 to 18 was obtained. Only the even HLB values were studied. The tested formulations contained 5% ALCOLEC S, 15% MIRANOL C2M-SF Conc. And 15% nonionic surfactants (1: 3: 3 ratio) with different HLB's. Surprisingly, none of the HLB values investigated provided clear solutions. In each case, thick gels were formed, instead of solutions. See Table 3.

P958 TABLE 3 - HLB system (c.b.p. to 100 water) * BRIJ 72 = Steareth-2 HLB 4.9 * BRIJ 700 = Steareth-100 HLB 18. »w EXAMPLE 4: Solubility Study v Effectiveness of dyes in the LAN The solubility and effectiveness of the dyes used in combination with the LAN were studied. The LAN provides three novel and surprising aspects to hair coloring / dyeing preparations in particular: (1) LAN avoids the need for classical cosolvents that are typically included in hair coloring compositions such as ethanol, alkyl polyols or propylene glycol, which serve to help solubilize the dyes at the base of the color; (2) Quaternized amine compounds are not required to effect hair conditioning when the LAN is used; and (3) a cloud of nitrogen is not needed for the coloring composition of the hair during its composition or storage.

Composition of Dye 1 Deionized water 61.4 g Sodium sulfite 1.0 g [antioxidant] Isoascorbic acid 0.8 g [antioxidant] For phenylenediamine 0.8 g p-amino-orthocresol 0.15 g meta-aminophenol 0.3 g para-aminophenol 0.5 g 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol 0.05 g P958 The deionized water at 70 ° C was added to a glass beaker, followed by the rest of the above ingredients. In another beaker, 5g of soy lecithin, 15g of disodium cocamfodipropionate and 15g of isoceteth-20 (LAN in a ratio of 1: 3: 3) were heated to 70 ° C and added to the aqueous phase with stirring . The pH was adjusted by adding aliquots of ammonium hydroxide to a pH of 8.4. The resulting pale and clear amber colored hair composition was stored for 5 weeks in a glass jar. No nitrogen cloud was used. No crystallization occurred, no darkening of the solution occurred.A lOg portion of the hair coloring composition was added to a plastic bowl and mixed with an equal volume of 20 volumes of hydrogen peroxide and then applied to a natural level 6 brown hair, which also contained 25% gray hair, for 20 minutes at room temperature After 20 minutes, the hair was rinsed under running water for 10 minutes, dried with a commercial hair dryer to give L = 19.11 a = 0.82, b = -0.03, L, a and b are defined below, L indicates the brightness or darkness of the color value, the higher L is, the lighter the hair and the more fading P95E-has presented. When L is 0, the hair is black and when L is 100 the hair is white. -a and + a represent changes in the color tone from green to red. -b and + b represent changes in color tone from blue to yellow. In this example, hair color in general decreased to a medium brown tone with a depth of level 4.

Composition of Dye 2 The Composition of Dye 1 was prepared the same except that the antioxidant was 1.8g of isoascorbic acid instead of isoascorbic acid plus sodium sulfite. The coloring composition of the pale, pale amber colored hair that resulted was stored for 5 weeks in a glass jar. No nitrogen cloud was used. No crystallization occurred. No darkening occurred. The composition was applied to the hair as in the previous example with the following results: L = 22.11, a = 0.70, b = -0.07. The overall color of the hair decreased to a brown tone with a level of depth 5.

Dye Composition 3 Dye Composition 1 was prepared, except that the pH was adjusted to 10. The pale and clear amber colored hair composition that resulted was stored for 5 minutes.

P958 weeks in a glass jar. No nitrogen cloud was used. No crystallization occurred. There was no darkening of the solution. The composition was applied to the hair as before, with the following results: L = 21.32, a = 2.60, b = -1.51. The overall color of the hair decreased to a brown tone with a level 5 depth with red / gold tones.

Dye Composition 4 Dye Composition 2 was prepared except that the pH was adjusted to 10. The coloring composition of the light and pale colored amber hair that resulted was stored for 5 weeks in a glass jar. No nitrogen cloud was used. No crystallization occurred. There was no darkening of the solution. The composition was applied to the hair as before, with the following results: L = 21.66, a-2.77, b = -1.46. The overall color of the hair decreased to a brown tone with a level 5 depth with red / gold tones.

Composition of Dye 5 In a beaker, 5g of soy lecithin, 15g of disodium cocamfodipropionate and 15g of isoceteth-20 (the LAN in a ratio of 1: 3: 3) were heated to 70 ° C. Then 0.8 g of para-phenylenediamine, 0.5 g of P958 p-amino-orthocresol, 0.3 g of metaminophenol, 0.5 g of paraminophenol and 0.05 g of 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol to the molten composition, with stirring. The stirred mixture was then added with stirring to 61.4g of deionized water at 70 ° C containing 1.8 g of isoascorbic acid and 0.8g of sodium sulfite. The pH was adjusted by adding aliquots of ammonium hydroxide to a pH of 10. To a 40 g portion of the above composition was added 4 g of steareth-10 allyl ether / acrylate copolymer. The resulting pale amber and clear gel was stored in a glass jar for 5 weeks. No nitrogen cloud was used. There was no crystallization. There was no darkening of the solution. As for the dye composition 1, a 10 gram portion of the hair coloring composition was added to the plastic bowl and mixed with an equal volume of 20 vol of hydrogen peroxide and then applied to natural brown hair level 6 , which contained 255% gray hair, for 20 minutes at room temperature. After 20 minutes, the hair was rinsed with running water for 10 minutes, dried with a commercial dryer to give L = 20.69, a = 1.72, b = 0.86. The overall color of the hair decreased to a brown tone with a depth level 55 with red / gold tones. The dye compositions 1 to 5, formulated with P958 LAN, they left the hair soft and conditioned and were stable solutions, which lasted 5 weeks in storage before being used and lasted much longer after being used. The LAN compositions containing added lipophilic had been added for more than 3 months at 45 ° C, providing a prediction of shelf life of 3 years at room temperature. These solutions containing LAN avoid the need for the addition of cosolvents to the compositions.

EXAMPLE 5: Solubility Study of LijDofic Ingredients in Variable vH LANs Concentrated LAN solutions containing several lipophilic ingredients were studied at pH values ranging from 3 to 12. Lecithin was present at 5% and the lipophilic ingredient was present. present in an amount of 1%. The LAN alone and the LAN plus a lipophilic were nebulous at pH 3-5. At pH 6, the LAN was clear only. At pH 11 and 12 all solutions were clear. See Table 4 TABLE 4: PROPERTIES OF CONCENTRATED LAN SOLUTIONS CONSISTING OF LIPOFILIC INGREDIENTS (LAN ratio 1: 3: 3, 5% leeitin, 1% lipophilic ingredients) = CLEAR NEBULA P958 (shaded areas indicate that the pH was not adjusted) The table shows that concentrated LAN solutions are preferably more alkaline to be clearer. Therefore, pH 10-12 solutions have better results. Anyone skilled in the art will know that at different ratios or LAN concentrations several degrees of clarity can be obtained.EXAMPLE 6: Preparation of Silicone / LAN Combinations Silicones are very desirable ingredients for improving shine and softness but are difficult to formulate due to their inherent solubility in water and alcohol. The silicones, phenyltri-ethicone (A) and laurylmethicone copolymer (B) were formulated in LAN sera to give clear and dilutable solutions. Non-ionic surfactants P958 were PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Oleth-10 and also decyl glucoside. The amphoteric surfactants were disodium cocoanfodipropionate.

Ingredient Amount in weight A B Silicone 2.0 2.0 Lecithin. 4.0 4.0 PPG-5-Ceteth-20 14.0 - Oleth-10 - 15.0 Decil glucoside 15.0 10.0 Disodium cocoanfodipropionate 1.0 1.0 Water c.b.p. c.b.p. pH adjusted to 6.0-6.5 with phosphoric acid A: load = 50% ratio LAN = 1: 4.75: 7.25 B: load = 50% ratio LAN = 1: 0.25: 6.25 These LAN / silicone combinations can be used to easily incorporate the silicone. in shampoos, conditioners and other formulations.

EXAMPLE 7: Preparation of a clear shampoo for hair treated with color The following clear shampoo was formulated. It contained a solar filter that carries LAN and Vitamin E. All the amounts of the ingredients are shown in percentages by weight.

P958 LAN * O .100% of the following LAN composition: lecithin 4.00% disodium cocoanfodipropionate (amphoteric surfactant) 19.00% PPG-5-Ceteth-20 (non-ionic surfactant) 14.00% Oleth-10 (non-ionic surfactant) 9.00% methyl paraben 0.20% Ethyl paraben 0.10% Disodium EDTA 0.10% phenoxyethanol 0.50% - 85% phosphoric acid (pH adjuster) 1.40% water 49.70% Vitamin E (tocopherol) 1.00% - Octyl salicylate (sunscreen) 1.00% * This LAN carries a load of 50%: 2.00% of total lipophilic (vitamin E and octilsalicilato) and 4.00% of lecithin. In a shampoo base of: - sodium laureth sulfate (anionic surfactant) 25. 000% polyquaternium 10 (polymer) 0. 100% P958 - PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate (emollient) 0.500% - disodium cocoanfodipropionate (amphoteric surfactant 5,000% - cocamidopropyl betaine (amphoteric surfactants) 8.00% - octyl methoxy cinnamate (sunscreen) 0.100% - phosphoric acid (85%) 0.800% - 0.500% sodium chloride - 0.500% fragrance - preservatives selected from phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben and disodium EDTA 0.800% - Proteins and amino acids selected from arginine hydrochloride, taurine, soy protein hydrolyzed with hydroxypropyl lauryldimonium, and soy protein hydrolyzed with wheat amino acid 0.400% - trehalose (humectant) 0.001% - water c.b.p. to 100 EXAMPLE 8: Conditioner preparation for hair treated with dye The following emulsified cream treatment containing cationic conditioners, silicones, P958 cationic polymers, sunscreens and Vitamin E were formulated as follows: The LAN as the LAN formulation of Example 7 ... 0.500% In a conditioner base of: - PEG-100 glyceryl stearate and stearate (non-ionic emulsifiers) 5,000% - quaternio 27 4.000% - hexadimetrine (cationic) chloride 0.5% and hydroxyethyl cellulose (cationic polymers 0.8% and cellulose) 1.300% - octylmethoxycinnamate (sunscreen) 0.100% - dimethicone (silicone) 2,000% - stearyl alcohol (emollient) 5,000% - octyldodecanol (emollient) 2,000% - 0.150% sodium citrate - 0.500% fragrance - selected preservatives from phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and disodium EDTA 0.900% - proteins and amino acids selected from taurine, arginine hydrochloride, soy protein hydrolyzed with lauryl dimonium hydroxypropyl and soy protein hydrolyzed with wheat amino acid 0.400% P958 - trehalose (humectant) 0.001% water c.b.p. 100 EXAMPLE 9: Preparation and deep treatment of hair treated with dye The following viscous aqueous fluid containing cationic conditioners, silicones, cationic polymers, (for example polyacrylamide), sunscreen and Vitamin E was formulated as follows: The LAN as the LAN formulation of example 7..20.000% On a treatment basis of; - SEPIGEL 305 (polyacrylamide / isoparaffin C13-C14 / laureth-7, available from SEPPIC) 2.000% - xanthan gum 1,000% - behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride (cationic conditioner) 3.000% - Cetimony chloride (cationic conditioner) 3.000% - Cyclomethicone and dimethicone 3,000% - octyl methoxycinnamate (sunscreen) 0.100% - propylene glycol P958 fragrance 0.500% selected preservatives of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben and disodium EDTA .. 0.800% proteins and amino acids selected from taurine, arginine hydrochloride, soy protein hydrolyzed with wheat amino acid .. 0.210% 85% phosphoric acid (pH adjuster) 0.060% trehalose (humectant) 0.001% Water C.B.P. 100 EXAMPLE 10: Color retention effects of the color treatment product against, chlorinated water and shampoo. Brown hair was treated and dyed with water with 5 ppm of chlorine during a deep treatment regime, shampoo was given and conditioner formulated as described. described above for hair treated with dye, for a week (1 deep treatment, 4 shampoos and 4 conditioners). To obtain significant experimental data, an experiment was carried out on 72 hair pieces of brown hair that were colored, followed by the following: * 24 hair pieces were treated with: Treatment (10 minutes / room temperature (TA), P958 rinse) Shampoo (5 minutes / TA, rinse) Conditioner (10 minutes / MT, rinse) Treatment with shampoo or conditioner was repeated three more times, representing one week of product use and chlorine treatments (water with 5 ppm with chlorine for 30 minutes at room temperature / rinse) were made after the 1st and 4th cycles: * 24 hairpieces were treated with chlorinated water during the regimen for hair treated with dye, as described above, but without Arginine, Taurine, Proteins, LAN, vitamin E, sunscreen products. * 24 hairpieces were treated with chlorinated water during the regimen for hair treated with dye as described above, but with water instead of the hair products described. The following table shows that the frequent use of the products in hair treated with dye protects the color from fading due to the effect of chlorinated water and shampoos. L indicates how much color has vanished. The higher the value of L, the lighter the color, that is, the more fade has occurred. The effects of LAN and additional ingredients, such as proteins, are also evident.

P958 TABLE 5 It is clear that the small change in L, ie the least fading, was presented with the scheme containing LAN of the invention.

EXAMPLE 11: Solubility of AMPHOMER LB-71 in LAN against solutions without LAN The following four solutions were prepared according to the following Table 6. Solution A: the aqueous LAN solution 1: 3: 5 containing the water insoluble polymer AMPHOMER LV 71. Solution B: A 1: 3: 5 aqueous LAN solution containing AMPHOMER LV 71 and sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), an anionic surfactant.

P958 Solution C: An aqueous solution of AMPHOMER LV 71 in an amphoteric surfactant and an anionic surfactant. No non-ionic surfactant or lecithin were present. This solution was prepared according to Example 1 of U.S. Patent No. 5,391,368 to Gerstein. Solution D: An aqueous solution of AMPHOMER LV 71 only in an amphoteric surfactant. No lecithin surfactants or non-ionic surfactants were present.

TABLE 6 The A-D solutions were acidified with 10% hydrochloric acid to a pH of 3. The pH and appearance of each solution after acidification at different pH levels is shown below: P95S TABLE 7 It is evident from the results shown in the Table 7 that the solubilization of a water insoluble polymer in an aqueous LAN solution (solutions A and B) is far superior to the solubilization of the same polymer in a solution that does not contain LAN (solutions C and D). Solutions A and B remained clear from pH 7 to pH 3, while solution C was nebulous from pH 5 down and solution D began to be misty at pH 6. In other words, the polymer insoluble in Water precipitates from the acid pH solution in systems that do not contain LAN.

EXAMPLE 12: Solubility of other water insoluble solutions containing LAN against those that do not contain LAN The same tests of Example 11 were carried out with ULTRAHOLD STRONG, another water-insoluble polymer P958 and LUVIMER 36D, a latex insoluble in water. The components of solutions 1 to 6 are as set out in the following Table 8.

TABLE 8 Solutions 3 and 6 were LAN Solutions, with a LAN ratio of 1: 3: 5. Solutions 1 and 4 contained an amphoteric polymer and an anionic polymer, and Solutions 2 and 5 contained only an amphoteric polymer. The solutions were acidified with 10% hydrochloric acid to pH 3. The pH and appearance of each solution after acidification at different pH levels are shown below in Table 9.

P958 TABLE 9 These results demonstrate, as in Example 11, that the solubilization of a water insoluble or latex polymer in an aqueous LAN solution is much greater than the solubilization of the same polymer or latex in a solution containing no LAN. The LAN 3 and 6 solutions remained clear up to pH 3, while solutions 4 and 5 were initially nebulous even before acidification, solution 1 was cloudy from pH 6 and solution 2 from pH 7.

EXAMPLE 13: Determination of the polymer / latex charge that the LAN solution can carry LAN solutions containing latex or water-insoluble polymer were prepared as shown in Table 10. Solution E had a LAN ratio of 1: 3: 4 and contained 10% by weight of AMPHOMER. Solution F had a P958 LAN ratio of 1: 5: 5 and contained 15% by weight of "AMPHOMER." Solution G had a LAN ratio of 1: 3: 4 and contained 60% by weight of AMERHOLD DR-25 (latex).

TABLE 10 Each of the solutions E, F and G were clear solutions. In amounts of polymer or latex greater than 60% by weight, the polymer or latex greater than 605 by weight, the polymer or latex could still be dissolved in the LAN system but the solution became very viscous.

EXAMPLE 14: Determination of the additional load that the LAN / polymer system can carry LAN solutions containing 3% AMPHOMER (water insoluble polymer) as well as a silicone ingredient were prepared as set out in Table 11. The "solution" H had a LAN ratio of 1: 3: 4 and contained 1% P958 by weight of phenyltrimethicone. Solution I had a LAN ratio of 1: 3: 4 and contained 1% by weight of dimethicone.

TABLE 11 The two solutions H and I were clear solutions. This shows that the LAN system is effective to carry ingredients insoluble in water as well as to carry other ingredients simultaneously. For example, L / AN / polymer systems can also contain ceramides, sunscreens, oils, vitamins.

EXAMPLE 15: Performance of LAN solutions containing ~ non-neutralized polymers A LAN carrier solution was prepared "with the following ingredients: Lecithin (ALCOLEC F100) 5% Amphoteric Surfactant (MIRANOL CWM-SF Conc.) .. 15% Non-ionic surfactant (ARLASOLVE 200) 15% P958 Water insoluble polymer (AMPHOMER LV-71) .... 6% Water c.b.p. 100% The following series of solutions was obtained by diluting an adequate amount of the LAN / 6% solution AMPHOMER previous to 100 g of water: TABLE 12 The curling effect of the hair treated with the above diluted solution of LAN / 6% AMPHOMER is shown in Figure 1. The data indicated that the performance of the diluted LAN / polymer solutions increased with the concentration of the unneutralized AMPHOMER present. Therefore, the organic phospholipid, the amphoteric surfactant and the nonionic surfactant which act in combination as an effective solvent for the water-insoluble, non-neutralized or partially neutralized polymer, resin or latex provide better results / improved performance when diluted or when the percentage of LAN in solution is lower. Preferably, the percentage of LAN in solution is 355 or less, in relation to the weight of the total composition. At percentages greater than 35%, LAN acts as a plasticizer for the polymer, resin or latex, thus reducing the desired fixation of styling products. Of course, if the LAN is to be used in a product whose central purpose is not the hairstyle, for example a shampoo, a dye composition or a relaxation composition, the percentage of the LAN present may be higher without detrimental effects and may in fact be help a higher percentage of LAN for the incomplete incorporation of polymer, resin or latex in the product not intended for combing.

EXAMPLE 16: Performance of LAN solutions containing partially neutralized polymers To maximize the charge of the polymers / resins that are soluble in a minimum amount of LAN in aqueous solution, the polymers / resins were partially neutralized. As discussed above, in general, water-insoluble polymers and resins are soluble in water only when they are approximately 90% neutralized. Using the LAN it is possible to solubilize the polymers or resins that are neutralized to a degree P958 much smaller, as illustrated in this example. Two LAN carrier solutions were prepared by dissolving a total of 4% polymer / resin (2% AMPHOMER LV-71 and 2% RESYN 28-2930) which were neutralized to 60% with aminomethylpropanol (AMP) in solutions of 1.2% and 0.8% of LAN (1: 3: 4).

TABLE 13 The performance of the above solutions in hair fixation is shown in Figure 2, which illustrates the exceptional retention of hair curls treated with the above solutions of LAN / partially neutralized polymer / 95% resin after 4 hours.

EXAMPLE 17: The effect of the degree of neutralization on the hair setting performance Four LAN solutions at 0.8% (1: 3: 4) were prepared, each containing 1% of AMPHOMER LV-71 and being 20%, 40%, 60% and 80%, respectively, neutralized by AMP (aminomethylpropanol).

TABLE 14 The curl retention of the aforementioned AD solutions is shown in Figure 3. The figure illustrates that the efficiency of the LAN solutions containing partially neutralized resins or polymers depends on the degree of neutralization, ie, the hair setting performance increased as the degree of neutralization decreased. In other words, aqueous LAN systems are able to successfully incorporate water insoluble and high performance polymers / resins while previously these polymers / resins could be incorporated only in non-aqueous systems based on organic solvents.

EXAMPLE 18: Performance of LAN solutions containing partially neutralized polymers and increase of polymer / resin amounts: curling efficiency Five LAN carrier solutions were prepared. Each one contained 0.85 LAN (ALCOLEC F100, MIRANOL C2M-SF P958 Conc., And ARLASOLVE 200) and 0% to 4%, respectively of a 60% neutralized water insoluble polymer, AMPHOMER LV-71. See table 15.

TABLE 15 The compositions were prepared in their percent curling efficiency over a period of 4 hours. See Figure 4, which shows that as the amount of styling polymer in the LAN solution increases from 0% to 4%, the curl retention, ie the efficiency, also increases.

Example 19: Performance of LAN solutions containing partially neutralized polymers and increase of polymer / resin amounts Five solutions were prepared. Solution 1 contained 4% LUVISKOL VA64, which is a water-soluble polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer from BASF, and 96% water. The solutions 2 to 5 P958 were LAN / AMPHOMER solutions where LUVISKOL was gradually replaced with AMP as the amount of AMPHOMER increased. See Table 16: TABLE 16 The compositions were compared in their percentage of curling efficiency over a period of 4 hours. See Figure 5, which shows that as the LAN / polymer solution was replaced with conventional water-soluble polymers / resins, the performance increased, ie the curl retention was excellent for solutions 4 and 5, where there was little LUVISKOL or there was no LUVrSKOL.

Example 20: Improvement of Permanent Waving Efficiency Three sets of 6 hairpieces (12 hair fibers, 13.8 cm each per hairpiece) were wrapped around permanent wavy tubes, then P958 saturated with the following solutions TABLE 17 After 30 minutes at room temperature, the hairpieces (still in the tubes) were rinsed thoroughly with water and dried. They were then treated with 2% hydrogen peroxide solution for 5 minutes at room temperature and rinsed thoroughly with water and dried. The hair insert was removed from the tubes and its length was measured. The following results were obtained: P958 TABLE 18 As can be seen from Table 18, hair treated with the reducing solution containing LAN / AMPHOMER exhibited better curling efficiency. The improvement was statistically significant at a level of confidence of the 95% Example 21: Preparation of Clear and Transparent Gel of Hydrogen Peroxide A series of clear transparent gels formed by LAN / polymer containing 3%, 6%, 9% and 12% hydrogen peroxide at pH 3-4 was obtained. The polymer used in the gels was VISCOPHOBE DB-1000, an acrylic acid latex from Union Carbide. A typical clear gel of hydrogen peroxide / LAN / VISCOPHOBE has the following formula: ALCOLEC F100 1 MIRANOL C2M-SF CONC 10 ARLASOLVE 200 15 VISCOPHOBE DB-1000 12 Hydrogen Peroxide 24 Water 38 P958 Phosphoric acid c.b.p. at pH 3 The viscosity of the gels can be adjusted by the amount of VISCOPHOBE used in the formula. As shown in Table 19 below, hydrogen peroxide / LAN / VISCOPHOBE gels are efficient color developers when compared to PRO-OXIDE, a commercially available developer of REDKEN.

TABLE 19 As shown in Table 19, the L value indicating the clarity or darkness of the color increased for Hair Color 1 compared to the L value of PRO-OXIDE and decreased for Hair Color 2. In other words, This Table shows that the hydrogen peroxide gel / LAN / VISCOPHOBE also works or better than the known PRO-OXIDE developer. It is advantageous to use a gel as a developer since it is easier to control its application due to the reduced flow compared to a developer P958_ liquid. Hydrogen peroxide / LAN / VISCOPHOBE gels can also be used with a liquid aqueous color system to provide aqueous-colored gels without solvent. When a clear gel of hydrogen peroxide / LAN / VISCOPHOBE at pH 3-4 is mixed with an aqueous color system at pH 8 or higher in a ratio of 1: 1, a thick gel is obtained which can be efficiently colored The hair. Regarding the hair bleaching effects, the hydrogen peroxide / LAN / VISCOPHOBE gels can be used to raise the hair's natural color at room temperature and show better efficiency at higher temperatures.

Example 22: Mask Formulation A mask composition is formulated from the following ingredients, including LAN, which are present in a ratio of approximately 1: 3: 4 and in an amount less than 1%: (A) Water 39,250 PVP-K-30 (PVP / VA copolymer, GAF / BASF) 1,000 Butylene glycol 2,000 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.350 Methyl paraben 0.400 Triethanolamine 1,500 P958 Simethicone. (MIRASIL SM by Rhodia Chimie) 0.100 KAMA KM 13 (Polysaccharide resin from Kama Int '1) 4.000 8,000 iron oxide Tri-stearate of polymethyl methacrylate isopropyl titanium 2,000 (B) Wax, from bees 4. 300 Glyceryl stearate 4.000 Paraffin 2.500 Carnauba wax 3.100 Stearic acid 3,000 Butylparaben 0.050 PVP / eicosene copolymer (GANEX V220 from ISP) 1,500 PERFORMA V103 polymer (New Phase synthetic wax) 1,000 (C) Cyclopentasiloxane (DC 245 from Dow Corning) 2,000 Cyclopentasiloxane / Dimethiconol (DC 2-9071 from Dow Corning) 3,000 Silica 1,000 Polyethylene (MICROPOLY 524 of Presperse) 2.000 (D) Lecithin (ALCOLEC F100) (L) 0.133 Disodic cocoanfodipropionate (MIRANOL) (A) 0.400 Isoceteth-20 (ARLASOLVE 200) (N) 0.530 P958 Octyl acrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (AMPHOMER LV-71) ... 0.160 Methylparaben 0.005 Ethylparaben 0.003 Disodium EDTA 0.003 0.013 Phenoxyethanol Water 1,403 (E) AVALURE UR450 (resin solution of B.F. Goodrich) 10,000 (F) Imidazolidinyl urea 0.300 Water 1,000 The procedure used to make the mask composition was as follows, using a total of 100 g of material: (A) 39,250 g of water were heated to 60 ° C and 1,000 g of PVP / VA copolymer were added. When the copolymer was dispersed, 2,000 g of butylene glycol and 0.350 g of hydroxyethyl cellulose, which were premixed, were added and the entire mixture was dispersed using a homomixer. When dispersed, 0.400 g of methyl paraben, 1,500 g of triethanolamine, 0.100 g of MIRASIL SM were added. (simethicone) and 4000 g of KAMA KM 13 (resin of P958 polysaccharide). Then iron oxide and polymethyl methacrylate isopropyl titanium triisostearate were added one at a time and placed in the homomixer until dispersed, about 30 to 45 minutes at a temperature of about 85 ° C to 90 ° C. (B) All the ingredients in sequence B were weighed and heated to 85 to 90 ° C. The resulting composition was emulsified with a paddle mixer, adding the product of sequence B to the product of sequence A above, for 15 minutes. The resulting combination was cooled to 60 ° C. (C) All the ingredients in the sequence (C) were added to the combination of A and B at 60 ° C. (D) All the ingredients of the sequence (D) were added to the combination A-B-C at 55 ° C. (E) All the ingredients in the sequence (E) were added to the combination A-B-C-D at 45 ° C. (F) All the ingredients in the sequence (F) were added to the combination A-B-C-D-E at 45 ° C. The composition of the combination A-B-C-D-E-F was cooled to 30-35 ° C. The mask composition formed had a creamy texture, lustrous appearance and when applied to the eyelashes, it provided the eyelashes with an enhanced rich and deep color so that they appeared thicker and P958, and was applied comfortably without tack or clutter. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and combinations may be made in the delivery system, in the compositions and methods of the invention, without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. same Therefore, it is intended that the present invention cover all modifications and variations thereof as long as it is within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.

P958

Claims (1)

1. CLAIMS I 1. A composition comprising: at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the at least one phospholipid; and at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the at least one phospholipid; 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises water. 3. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in a greater amount by weight than the amount of the at least one phospholipid. 4. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount by weight greater than the amount of the at least one phospholipid. 5. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution is a lecithin. 6. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one phospholipid, the at least one P958 amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a sufficient combined amount to allow at least one water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into the aqueous solution. A composition according to claim 6, wherein the at least one water-insoluble ingredient is selected from water-insoluble, partially neutralized, non-neutralized polymers, resins and latexes. 8. A composition according to claim 7, wherein the water insoluble polymers, resins and latexes contain at least one carboxyl moiety. 9. A composition according to claim 6, wherein the at least one water-insoluble ingredient is a lipophilic ingredient. 10. A composition according to claim 9, wherein the lipophilic ingredients are a silicone, an oil soluble vitamin, ceramide, natural oil, a sunscreen or a mixture thereof. 11. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is formed from at least one C8 to C24 fatty alcohol, a C8 to C24 fatty acid, or a C8 to C2i glyceride. 12. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant has an HLB of at least 10. P958 13. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkylalamphodiacetates, alkylalaniphodipionates, imidazolines and salts thereof. 14. A composition according to claim 13, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is cocanfodipropionate or cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine. 15. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid is present in an amount greater than 0 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. A composition according to claim 12, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid is present in an amount of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 17. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 18. A composition according to claim 17, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 19. A composition according to claim 1, P958 wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 20. A composition according to claim 7, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 21. A composition according to claim 9, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 22. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in one. weight ratio of 1: 2: 2 and higher. 23. A composition according to claim 7, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 1: 3: 3 and above . 24. A composition according to claim 23, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a proportion of P958 weight of 1: 3: 4 and higher. 25. A composition according to claim 9, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 1: 3: 2 and above . 26. A delivery system for water insoluble ingredients comprising: at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant; at least one nonionic surfactant; at least one ingredient insoluble in water; and an aqueous phase, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a sufficient combined amount to allow the at least one water-insoluble ingredient. is incorporated into the system. 27. A delivery system for water-insoluble ingredients according to claim 26, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the at least one organic phospholipid and wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in a quantity by weight P958 equal to or greater than the amount of at least one organic phospholipid. 28. A delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises additional ingredients selected from anionic surfactants, organic salts, inorganic salts, proteins, hair dyes, water soluble polymers and amino acids. 29. A delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the at least one water-insoluble ingredient is selected from partially insoluble, partially neutralized, water-insoluble polymers, resins and latexes. 30. A delivery system according to claim 29, wherein the water insoluble polymers, resins and latexes contain at least one carboxyl moiety. 31. A delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the at least one water-insoluble ingredient is a lipophilic ingredient. 32. A delivery system according to claim 31, wherein the lipophilic ingredient is a silicone, an oil soluble vitamin, a ceramide, natural oil, a sunscreen or a mixture thereof. 33. A supply system according to P958 claim 26, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution is a lecithin. 34. A delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is formed from a C8 to C24 fatty alcohol, a C8 to C24 fatty acid, or a Cs to C24 glyceride. 35. A delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant has an HLB of at least 10. 36. A delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant it is selected from betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkylalamphodiacetates, alkylalalfodipropionates, imidazolines and salts thereof. 37. A delivery system according to claim 36, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropionate or cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine. 38. A delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid is present in an amount greater than 0 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the delivery system. 39. A supply system according to P958 claim 38, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid is present in an amount of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the delivery system. 40. A delivery system according to claim 27, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the delivery system. 41. A delivery system according to claim 40, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the delivery system. 42. A supply system according to claim 27, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the delivery system. 43. A delivery system according to claim 29, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the delivery system. 44. A delivery system according to claim 31, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the delivery system. 45. A delivery system according to claim 27, wherein the at least one phospholipidOrganic P958, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 1: 2: 2 and higher. 46. A delivery system according to claim 29, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 1: 3: 3. and superior. 47. A delivery system according to claim 46, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 1: 3: 4. and superior. 48. A delivery system according to claim 31, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant are present in a weight ratio of 1: 3: 2. and superior. 49. A delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid is a lecithin, the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-20 and Oleth-10, the less an amphoteric surfactant is disodium cocamifodipropionate. 50. A supply system according to P958 claim 26, wherein the system is in the form of a shampoo, a conditioner, a deep treatment for the hair; a body wash, a bath gel, a bath oil, a hair dyeing composition, a permanent waving formulation, a makeup composition, a skin cream or a lotion. 51. A delivery system according to claim 50, wherein the makeup composition is a mask or a base. A process for the preparation of a delivery system according to claim 26, wherein the process comprises the following steps: (a) combining the organic phospholipid, the non-ionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant to obtain a mixture; (b) heating the mixture obtained in step (a); (c) adding an aqueous solution to form a diluted mixture; and (d) cooling the diluted mixture. 53. The process according to claim 52, wherein the water-insoluble ingredient is added to the mixture of step (a). 54. A method for treating keratinous substances, the method comprises preparing an aqueous solution comprising at least one organic phospholipid P958"capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution, at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of at least one phospholipid, at least one nonionic surfactant present in an equal amount by weight or greater than the amount of the at least one phospholipid, and at least one water-insoluble ingredient, wherein the at least one organic phospholipid, the at least one amphoteric surfactant, and the at least one non-ionic surfactant are present. in a sufficient combined amount to allow the water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into the aqueous solution, and to apply the aqueous solution to the keratinous substances 55. A method according to claim 54, wherein the treatment comprises shampooing, conditioner, dye, bleach, apply permanent waving, relax, fix, moisten and put on a make-up 56. A method according to claim 54, wherein the The keratinous substances include hair, skin and eyelashes. 57. A method according to claim 55, wherein the makeup comprises applying a mask to the eyelashes or a base to the facial skin. 58. A composition comprising: P958 at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the at least one phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the at least one phospholipid; at least one polysaccharide resin; and at least one pigment. 59. a composition comprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the at least one phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the at least one phospholipid; at least one polysaccharide resin; and at least one film former other than the at least one polysaccharide resin. 60. A composition according to claim 59, wherein the composition further comprises a pigment. P958