MXPA99008093A - Stable w/o/w emulsion and its use for cosmetic and/or dermatologic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Stable triple oil, water, oil emulsion, for cosmetics, includes crosslinked polysiloxane elastomer containing polyether group Stable triple oil, water, oil emulsion includes a partially or completely crosslinked polysiloxane elastomer containing a polyoxyalkylene chain. Triple oil, water, oil emulsions comprises a primary oil in water emulsion and an external oil phase, the triple emulsion containing at least one partially or fully crosslinked polysiloxane elastomer comprising a polyoxyethylene and/or a polyoxypropylene chain.

Description

OIL / WATER / STABLE OIL EMULSION AND ITS USE AS COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a stable triple emulsion of oil / water / oil and its use particularly in the eos -metic and / or dermatological fields, in particular for the controlled release of -agents active ingredients, with a view particularly to cleaning, treating, protecting and / or hydrating the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers and more particularly with a view to treating dry skin. It is known to use, particularly in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, topical compositions in the form of emulsions. These emulsions are generally oil-in-water (H / E) or water-in-oil (E / H) emulsions. It can also be multiple emulsions of the water / oil / water type (E / H / E) or oil / water / oil (H / E / H). Among the multiple emulsions, emulsions in external aqueous phase are preferably used, namely the E / H / E emulsions, which combine the advantages of freshness in the application, -supported by the water present in the external aqueous phase, and the comfort contributed by a relatively important amount of oil. However, the H / E / H emulsions are also interesting because of their oily continuous phase, which allows to form a lipid film on the surface of the skin that prevents the loss of transepj_ dermal water and protects the skin from external aggressions . In addition, the fat effect of such emulsions can be avoided by incorporating new light and non-greasy oils, such as, for example, the oils of low viscosity sili-cones, some esters of fatty acids and alcohols.

REF .: 30985 short chain fatty. It is therefore interesting to have multiple-emulsions of the H / E / H type. However, multiple emulsions of a general nature are little exploited because they frequently present stability problems with time. The most frequently found destabilization mechanism is the migration of small oil internal droplets to the oily medium outside through the intermediate aqueous layer, either by simple diffusion of oil through the aqueous membrane, or by previous rupture of the oil. fig the aqueous that causes the coalescence of the internal oil droplets and that lead to a release of oil in the external oily medium. Generally this phenomenon called loss of multiple character ends up leading to a macroscopically visible phase shift and to obtaining an emulsion of simple unstable H / E instead of a triple emulsion. Also, different means have been considered to alleviate this inconvenience. In particular, one of the solutions consists in introducing into the internal or external oily phase one or more gelling polymer (s) whose role is to permanently limit the oil movements from the internal phase to the external phase. However, the polymers capable of gelling the oils are poorly distributed and do not have good co-toxic peptides. They increase the feeling of fat and are adhesive during and after the application on the skin. The multiple emulsions obtained so presejí the defect of being adhesive and delay in penetrating the skin. There remains a need for a multiple emulsion of H / E / H which is stable, which does not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are particularly pleasant to use on the skin.

The applicant has now unexpectedly found that the use of a partially or completely crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer including a polyoxyethylene chain and / or polyoxypropyl logs allowed obtaining a stable multiple H / E / H emulsion without requiring the contribution of other stabilizing agents. Also, the present invention relates to a triple oil / water / oil emulsion comprising a primary oil-in-water emulsion and an external oil phase, characterized because the triple emulsion contains at least one partially or totally cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising a polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated chain. The subject of the present invention is also the use of at least one partially or totally cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising a polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated chain for the stabilization of a triple oil / water / oil emulsion. The triple emulsion according to the invention has the advantage of being stable and of being able in particular to preserve the activity of active agents., particularly of lipophilic active substances present in the internal oily phase, from which they are released during the application of the composition on the skin, mucous membranes and / or hairs. The partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, two of which can be used in the emulsion according to the present invention, can be introduced into one or the other of the oily phases. They are introduced preferably into the external oily phase of the emulsion. These are generally emulsifiers. They can be chosen in particular from the crosslinked polymers described in the application EP-A-0545002 indicated here by way of reference. These organopolysiloxanes are obtained by addition polymerization of the following compounds (I) and (II): (I) an organohydrogenpolysiloxane of formula (1): RlaR2bHcSi0 (4- a-b-c) / 2 (1) 1 in which R represents an unsubstituted or substituted alkyl, aryl or aralkyl group, comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a halogenated hydrocarbon group; R represents a group, 3 -CnH2n0 (C2H40) d (C3H60) eR; (3) wherein R is a hydrogen, a 5-saturated saturated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a group - (CO) -R where R is a saturated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 atoms of carbo-bond; d is an integer from 2 to 200 and e is an integer from 0 to 200, with the proviso that d + e is a number that ranges from 3 to 200, and n is a number from 2 to 6, a is a value equal to the inequality: 1.0 = a = 2,5, b is a value equal to the inequality: 0.001 < b < 1.0 and c is a value equal to the inequality: 0.001 < c < 1.0; or an organohydrogenpolysiloxane represented by the following formula (2): R fH9Si0 (4-f-g) / 2 (2) -i in which R has the same meaning as in formula (1), f is a value equal to the inequality: 1.0 < f < _ 3.0, g is a value equal to the inequality: 0.001 =. g - =. 1.5; or a mixture of the organohydrogenpolysiloxanes of formulas (1) and (2), and (II) a polyoxyalkylene represented by the following formula (A): C H? (C, H.O). (C, H, 0) .C H9m, m 2 2 4 h 3 o? m 2m- 1 (A) in which h is an integer that ranges from 2 to 200, i is an eji tero number that oscillates between 0 and 200, with the proviso that h + i is a number that oscillates between 3 and 200, and is a number whole that ranges from 2 to 6, or an organopolysiloxane represented by the following formula (B): in which R 1 has the same meaning as in formula (1), R 4 is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having an unsaturated bond at the end and containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, j is an equal value to inequality: 1.0 < jj = L3,0 and k is a value equal to the inequality: 0.001 =, k = .1.5, or a mixture of polyoxyalkylene of formula (A) and of the organopolysiloxane of formula (B), wherein at least one organohydrogenpolysiloxane of formula (1) or at least one polyoxyalkylene of formula (A) is contained as an element - essential addition polymerization. Preferably, the organopolysiloxane is mixed with a silicone acetyl and / or a polyol and prepared directly with a mixture of this kind. The silicone oil preferably has a viscosity equal to or lower than 100 cSt at 25 ° C. According to one embodiment of the invention, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is prepared from 100 parts by weight of the constituents defined above and from 3 to 200 parts by weight - of a silicone oil having a viscosity equal to or less than 100 - cSt at 25 ° C, and / or a polyol. The silicone oil can be a volatile or non-volatile silicone oil or a mixture of volatile silicone oil and non-volatile silicone oil. As a partially or totally cross-linked organopolysiloxane comprising a polyoxyethylene chain and / or polyoxypropylenated chain, mention may be made, for example, of the product marketed by Shin-Etsu under the name KSG 21. This product comprises 28% organopolysiloxane and 62% by weight. % silicone oil with a viscosity of 6 cSt. In the triple emulsion according to the invention, the partially or completely cross-linked organopolysiloxane is preferably used in an amount of active material ranging from 0.1 to 10% and preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the triple emulsion. Preferably, the primary emulsion H / E contains one or more emulsifiers chosen from: (1) nonionic surfactants having an HLB greater than or equal to 11, optionally associated with a lipophilic co-surfactant such as a fatty alcohol , a fatty acid or a fatty ester of glyceryl (glyceryl stearate). As a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of greater than or equal to 11, mention may be made, for example, of the esters of fatty acids and of oxyethylenated glycerol, the esters of fatty acids and sorbitums which are oxyethylenated, the oxyethylenated fatty acids, the sugar esters like sucrose stearate, and its mixtures; (2) the polymers capable of stabilizing an H / E emulsion. Examples of such polymers include copolymers composed of a majority fraction of monomeric carboxylic acid monoolefinic acid unsaturated C3-Cg or its anhydride and a minor fraction of monomer or fatty acid ester of acrylic acid as the commercial product hoWled under the name Pemulen TR2 by the Goodrich Society (CTFA name: acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), or polyacrylamides such as the product marketed under the name Hostacerin AMPS by the Hoechst Company ( CTFA name: Ammonium polyacryldimethyltaura measures), and their mixtures; (3) dispersions of lipid vesicles based on amphiphilic-ionic (liposomes) or non-ionic lipids, and particularly the liposomes based on the association of hydrogenated lecithin / oxyethylenated soy sterol. . A mixture of these emulsifiers can also be used. These emulsifiers can be introduced into the aqueous phase or the oily phase of the primary emulsion. The amount of emulsifier (s) in the primary emulsion varies according to the nature of the emulsifiers used. It may range, for example, between 0.1 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the primary emulsion. The amount of primary emulsion H / E in the triple emulsion will generally be 50 to 95% and preferably 70 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the triple emulsion. The amount of the internal oily phase will generally be between 0.1 and 40% and preferably between 1 and 25% by weight with reference to the total weight of the triple emulsion. The amount of the aqueous phase will generally be between 10 and 90% and preferably between 40 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the triple emulsion. The oily phase of the primary emulsion H / E and the external oily phase comprise one or more fatty substances chosen from oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin (albari-coke almond oil, liquid fraction of charcoal butter) , mineral oils (petroleum jelly), synthetic oils (isohexadecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene or Parleam oil), fluorinated oils, silicone oils and particularly volatile silicone oils such as octyl-heptamethyltrisi-loxane (or caprilyl ethicone) and cyclomethicones such as cyclopentasyl loxane and cyclohexasiloxane, waxes and particularly silicone waxes, silicone gums, silicone resins. Preferably, the oily phase containing the organopolysiloxane elastomer and particularly the external oily phase of the emulsion-multiple H / E / H, contains as a fatty substance, at least one solvent of the non-polysiloxane elastomer organe which is preferably an silicone chosen from cyclic organopolysiloxanes (cyclomethicone) such as ci-clohexamethyl loxane or linear low viscosity organopolysiloxanes (polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity lower than 50 cSt or dimethicones). The triple emulsion is prepared in a conventional manner by preparation of the primary emulsion and incorporation of a certain amount of the primary emulsion in the external oily phase which according to a preferred embodiment of the invention contains the partially or totally cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising a ioxieti polyoxyethanol chain - and / or polyoxypropylenated. The triple emulsion according to the invention can be used in particular in the cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical fields. Preferably, it is intended to constitute a composition for topical application. In this case, the composition must contain a topically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, nails, scalp and / or hair. As indicated at the beginning of the description, one of the main interests of the emulsion according to the invention is that the latter may contain, presenting a stable character, both cosmetic and therapeutic active principles, these active agents being therefore able to be particularly chosen among all those usually used so far in the field of cosmetics, dermatology or medicine. This active agent can be in particular a lipophilic active agent, but can also be hydrophilic, and, depending on its nature, can be introduced into one of the oily phases or into the aqueous phase of the triple emulsion according to the invention. As lipophilic active agents, mention may be made in particular of lipophilic vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin D, vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K and derivatives of these vitamins such as esters, ceramides, unsaponifiables such as unsaponifiable charitable, algae extracts particularly those rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids such as eicosa-pentaenoic acid and docosa-hexaenoic acid, unsaturated oils for example fish oils rich in linoleic acids and linolenic As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made in particular of polyols such as glycerin, glycols and sugar derivatives, enzymes, natural extracts, procyanidolide oligomers, vitamins such as vitamin C and their derivatives such as esters, urea, depigmenting agents such as cojic acid and caffeic acid, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, hydratatic acids such as hydrolysed proteins, softeners such as allantoin and mixtures thereof. The active agent is present in an effective amount to ensure the expected result. It can, for example, be present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10% and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight with laughed -tion to the total weight of the composition. The H / E / H emulsions according to the invention can make up compositions for cleaning, protecting, treating and / or treating the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, in particular for the face, for the neck, for the hands, for the hair, for the leather fits -Ilde or for the body, as well as for the eyelashes. They may include particularly protection creams, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, body milks for protection or treatment, lotions, gels, or foams for the treatment of the skin, of - the mucous membranes, the hair and the scalp. The compositions of the invention are particularly suitable for hydrating the skin and / or treating dry skin. Also, the subject of the invention is still the cosmetic use of the emulsion as defined above for cleaning and / or treating and / or protecting and / or hydrating the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, that is to say, the hair and / or the eyelashes. The subject of the invention is also the use of the emulsion as defined above for the preparation of a dermatological composition intended to treat and / or protect dry skin. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic and / or dermatological procedure for mimicking and / or treating and / or protecting and / or hydrating the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the keratin fibers, characterized in that it consists of applying to the skin, mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, an emulsion as defined above. In a known manner, the composition of the invention can also contain lipophilic or hydrophilic adjuvants customary in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as foaming surfactants, preservatives, antioxidants, sequestrants, solvents (octyldodecanol), perfumes , charges, sunscreens, the odor absorbers, the coloring matters, the gelling agents and the lipid vesicles. Examples of gelling agents which may be mentioned are clays, polysaccharide gums and their derivatives (xanthan gum, carboxymethylhydroxy-propyl guar), carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer or sodium carbo).

The amounts of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the areas considered, and for example from 0.01 to 15% of the total weight of the composition. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the compositions according to the invention. The adjuvants, according to their nature, can be introduced into the aqueous phase or into one of the oily phases of the triple emulsion. The examples given below of compositions according to the invention are given by way of illustration and without limitation. The quantities are given in them in% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. Example 1: moisturizing night cream 1. Primary emulsion H / E: Phase A: Preparation of liposomes - Hydrogenated lecithin (Lecinol S 10 marketed by NIKKOL) 0.72% - Soybean soils oxyethylenated (Generol 122 NE 5 D marketed by HENKEL ) 2,, 8% - Water 9% Phase B: oily phase of the primary emulsion H / E - Isohexadecane 3. .5% - Apricot kernel oil 5% - Charitable unsaponifiables 1% - perfume 0,, 5% - Preservative 0..6% Phase C: aqueous phase - Glycerin 3% - Preservative 0.2% - Xanthan gum 0.2% - Sodium carbomer 0.15% - Water 53.33% 2. External oily phase: - 12% Cyclohexasiloxane - KSG 21 to 28% active matter 8% Example 2: nutrient cream for dry skin 1. Primary emulsion H / E: - Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 glyceryl stearate (Arlacel 165 marketed by ICI) 1.8% - Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 marketed by ICI) 0.75% - Liquid Fraction of Charity Butter 7.3% - Cetyl alcohol 1.75% - Cyclopentasiloxane (DC Fluid 245 marketed by Dow Corning) 7% - Parleam oil 4% - Perfume 0.5% - Preservative 0.6% Phase B - Glycerin - Preservative 0.2% - Xanthan gum 0.1% - Sodium carbomer 0.2% - Water 53.8% 2. External oily phase: - Dimethicone 10 cSt (DC Fluid 200 marketed by Dow Corning) 10% - KSG 21 to 28% of active material 8% Example 3: moisturizing cream 1. Primary emulsion H / E: Phase A: - Octyldodecanol 2% - Cyclopentasiloxane (DC Fluid 245 marketed by Dow Corning) 4.5% - 1% tocopheryl acetate - Perfume 0.5% - Preservative 0.6% Phase B: - Glycerin 5.5% - Preservative 0.2% - • Acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (Pemulen TR 2 marketed by Goodrich) 0.13% - Ammonium polyacrildimetiltauramida (Hostacerin AMPS marketed by HOECHST) 1.1% - Water 69.47% 2. Oily external phase: - Caprililmeticona (Silsoft 034 marketed by WITCO) 7% - KSG 21 to 28% of active material 8% It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known by the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is the conventional one for the manufacture of the objects or products to which It refers to it.

Claims (22)

1. R E I V I N D I C A I N N E S Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property. 1.- Triple acetyl / water / oil emulsion characterized in that it comprises a primary emulsion of oil-in-water and an external oily phase, characterized in that the triple emulsion contains at least one partially or totally crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer comprising a chain poyoxieti wood and / or polyoxypropylenated. 2. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the organopoliose loxane elastomer is obtained by polymerization of addition of the following compounds (I) and (II): (I) an organohydrogenpolysiloxane of formula (1): 1 2 R aR bHcSl0 (4-a-b-c) / 2 (D wherein R represents an unsubstituted or substituted alkyl, aryl or aralkyl group, comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a halogenated carbon-2 hydrogenated group; R represents a group:
2. -CnH2n? (C2H40 > d (C3H60) eRC (3) wherein R is a hydrogen, a saturated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a group - (CO) -R5 where R5 is a -hydrocarbon group alifiátr > saturated having 1 to 5 carbon atoms; d is an integer from 2 to 200 and e is an integer from 0 to 200, with the proviso that d + e is a number that ranges from 3 to 200, and n - be a number from 2 to 6, a is a value equal to the inequality: 1, 0 ^ a «¿: 2.5, b is a value equal to the inequality: and c is a value equal to the inequality: 0.001. = c = 1, 0; or an organohydrogenpolysiloxane represented by the following formula (2):
3. RlfH9Si0 (4-f-g) / 2 (2) in which R has the same meaning as in formula (1), f is a value equal to the inequality: 1, 0 = Lf - = 3.0, g is a value equal to the inequality: 0.001 < g. =. 1.5; or a mixture of the organohydrogenpolysiloxanes of formulas (1) and (2), and (II) a polyoxyalkylene represented by the following formula (A):
4. CmH2 ™ 0 < C2H40 > h < C3H6 ° W2m-1 < A > where h is an integer that ranges from 2 to 200, i is an integer that ranges from 0 to 200, provided that h + i is a number that ranges from 3 to 200, and m is a whole number which ranges from 2 to 6, or an organopolysiloxane represented by the following formula (B): wherein R 1 has the same meaning as in formula (1), R 4 is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having an unsaturated end-unsaturated bond containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, j is a value - equal to the inequality: 1.0 = j = .3.0 and k is a value equal to the inequality: 0.001 = k _ = _ 1, 5, or a mixture of polyoxyalkylene of formula (A) and -of the organopolysiloxane of formula (B), wherein at least one organohydrogen-polysiloxane of formula (1) or at least one polyoxyalkylene of formula (A) is contained as an essential element of the addition polymerization. 3. Emulsion according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by the fact that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in the external acetyl phase. 4. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed in a mixture with a silicone oil and / or a polyol.
5. 5. Emulsion according to the preceding claim, characterized by the fact that the silicone oil preferably has a viscosity equal to or less than 100 cSt at 25 ° C.
6. 6. Emulsion according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the silicone oil has a viscosity equal to 6 cSt at -25 * C.
7. 7. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in an amount of active material ranging between 0.1 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the triple emulsion.
8. 8. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the primary emulsion H / E contains one or more emulsifiers selected from nonionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 11., the polymers susceptible to stabilize - an emulsion of H / E, the dispersions of lipid vesicles and their mixtures.
9. 9. Emulsion according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is chosen from the esters of fatty acids and oxyethylenated glycerol, the oxyethylenated fatty acid and oxybutylenated esters, the oxyethylenated fatty acids, the esters of sugars and their mixtures.
10. 10. Emulsion according to claim 8, characterized in that the polymer is selected from among the copolymers consisting of an a-yoritary fraction of C3-C6 unsaturated phenyl-phenyl carboxylic acid monomer or its anhydride and of a minor fraction of monomer ester. of acrylic acid, polyacrylamides and their mixtures.
11. 11. Emulsion according to claim 8, characterized in that the dispersion of lipid vesicles is a dispersion of liposomes.
12. 12. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phases contain one or more fatty bodies chosen from oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils , fluorinated oils, waxes, silicone gums, silicone resins.
13. 13. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of internal oily phase ranges between 0.1 and 40% and preferably 1 to 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of the triple emulsion.
14. 14. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of primary emulsion H / E ranges between 50 and 95% and preferably between 70 and 85% by weight with respect to total weight of the triple emulsion.
15. 15. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it constitutes a composition for topical application.
16. 16. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one active agent selected from vitamins, ceramides, unsaponifiables, algae extracts, unsaturated oils, polyols, enzymes, natural extracts, the procyanidic oligomers, the urea, the depigmenting agents, -the beta-hydroxyaoids, the alpha-hydroxy acids, the moisturizers, the softeners and their mixtures.
17. 17. Emulsion according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amount of active agent (s) ranges between 0.01"and 20% and -preference between 0.1 and 10% by weight with
18. 18. Emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one lipophilic adjuvant or hi-bitumen salecpicna-b aitce acnservsptes, apticc? dsrrbe, seouaiLtai-tes, solvents, perfumes, fillers, sunscreens, odor absorbers, coloring matters, gelling agents and lipid vesicles
19. 19. Cosmetic use of the emulsion according to any one of the previous claims, for cleaning and / or treating and / or protecting and / or hydrating the skin, mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers
20. 20. Use of the emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 18, for the preparation of a dermatological composition intended for t Ratar and / or protect dry skin.
21. 21. Cosmetic procedure for cleaning and / or treating and / or protecting and / or hydrating the skin and / or keratin fibers, characterized in that it consists of applying to the skin, mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 18.
22. 22. Use of at least one partially or totally cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising a polyoxyethylene chain and / or polyoxypropylenated chain, for the stabilization of a triple emulsion of oil / water / oil.