MXPA99007373A - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition containing salicylic acid or its derivatives and its use - Google Patents

Abstract

A new cosmetic or dermatological composition is an oil-in-water emulsion comprises:(a) salicylic acid and/or at least one of its derivatives;(b) at least one fatty acid ester of glucose and/or alkylglucose;and (c) at least one oxyethylenated ether of a fatty acid and glucose and/or alkylglucose.

Description

COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING SALICYLIC ACID OR A DERIVATIVE OF SALICYLIC ACID AND ITS UTILIZATION The invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, based on salicylic acid and / or a salicylic acid derivative, which contains an ester of glucose or alkyl glucose and an oxyethylenated ether of glucose and / or alkyl glucose. It also refers to the use of this composition to combat, little by little, against the aging of the skin of the face and / or of the human body, including the scalp, and to combat acne and / or skin changes. . It is known to use beta-hydroxy acids and particularly salicylic acid and its derivatives as keratolytic agents for treating acne and as anti-aging agents in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions. Thus, WO-A-93/10756 describes the use of a composition, based on salicylic acid to treat wrinkles and documents FR-A-2 581 542 and EP-A-378 936 describe the use of derivatives of salicylic acid to treat acne and the signs of aging. Salicylic acid and its derivatives are from a REF 30865 great interest, given that its biological effects on the skin, particularly on the main clinical signs of skin aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles, the disorganization of the "grain" of the skin, the modification of the color of the skin and the loss of firmness and tonicity of the skin. In addition, the salicylic acid derivatives have the advantage in relation to salicylic acid, to have a higher keratolytic activity and an effective bacteriostatic activity. Unfortunately, the use of these active agents poses a problem insofar as they can cause itching, itching, tightness after application, and may lead to significant discomfort. The use of these compounds for users with sensitive skin is, therefore, often redhibitory or harmful. In addition, it is often necessary to add to these compounds, solvents such as octyldodecanol, to solubilize them, they can be added for the discomfort of the composition that contains them. Also, there remains a need for a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on such compounds, which does not have the drawbacks of the prior art. The Applicant has unexpectedly found that the tolerance of salicylic acid and its derivatives can be significantly increased by incorporating them into an oil-in-water (H / E) emulsion, emulsion having a pH of 4 or more. , and containing as surfactants a mixture of glucose ester or alkyl glucose and oxyethylenated glucose or alkyl glucose. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that it has a pH between 4 and 7 and contains (i) salicylic acid and / or at least a derivative of salicylic acid, (ii) at least one ester of fatty acid and of glucose and / or of alkyl glucose, and (iii) at least one oxyethylenated ether of fatty acid and of glucose and / or of alkyl glucose. The combination of an ester of (alkyl) glucose and an oxyethylenated ether of (alkyl) glucose makes it possible to obtain a perfectly tolerated composition when it is applied to the skin of the face and / or of the human body. This combination is, accordingly, a preferred embodiment used as a single surfactant. The fatty chain in the fatty acid ester and (alkyl) glucose and the fatty chain in the oxyethylenated ether of fatty acid and (alkyl) glucose preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

As the fatty acid ester and the glucose or alkyl glucose ester, mention may in particular be made of the fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially of the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate); the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate); the mixture of monoster and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); the mixture of monoster and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquifiscaterate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by the company AMERCHOL. A mixture of these esters can also be used. Preferably, the fatty acid and glucose ester or alkyl glucose ester is introduced into the oily phase of the emulsion. It is used in a satisfactory amount to ensure the expected result. Thus, this amount can range, for example, between 0.1% and 10% by weight and preferably between 1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oxyethylenated ether of fatty acid and of glucose or alkyl glucose preferably comprises from 10 to 100 oxyethylenated groups (or moles of ethylene oxide) and better than 20 to 40 oxyethylenated groups. Oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acid and of glucose or alkyl glucose can be, for example, the oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acid and of methyl glucose and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of methyl glucose and stearic acid in approximately 20 moles of sodium oxide. ethylene (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the AMERCHOL Company; the polyethylene glycol ether of the monoster and diester mixture of methyl glucose and stearic acid in approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE- 20 by the AMERCHOL Company and the one marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the GOLDSCHMIDT Company. A mixture of these oxyethylenated ethers can also be used. Preferably, the oxyethylenated ether of (alkyl) glucose is introduced into the aqueous phase of the emulsion. It is used in a satisfactory amount to ensure the expected result. The amount of oxyethylenated ether (s) of fatty acid and (alkyl) glucose can range, for example, from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may comprise salicylic acid and / or one or more salicylic acid derivatives. As salicylic acid derivatives, any derivative capable of being used in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition can be used, and particularly the salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) or a salt of said derivative: wherein: Ri represents hydrogen or an aliphatic chain, alkoxy, ester or ketoxy, saturated, linear, branched or cyclized, an unsaturated chain bearing one or more double bonds conjugated or not, these chains comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted by at least one substituent selected from the halogen atoms, the trifluoromethyl group, the hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or by a carboxyl function, free or esterified by an inferior alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester function of formula (II): where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; R3 represents hydrogen or a straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more substituents. The chain can be selected in particular from alkyl and alkenyl radicals comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted. The substituent can be in particular a hydroxyl radical. When R3 is hydrogen, salts of the acids of formula (I) can also be used, and in particular salts obtained by salification with a base.

As a base capable of salifying the salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I), mention may be made of mineral bases such as alkali metal hydroxides (sodium and potassium hydroxides) or ammonium hydroxides or, better still, organic bases such as organic primary, secondary, tertiary or cyclic amines and more especially amino acids. As an example of bases, glycine, the usin, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxy-methylaminomethane (TRISTA), and triethanolamine may be mentioned. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a derivative of formula (I) in which the radical Ri comprises at least 4 carbon atoms is used in the composition of the invention. It is for example formed by an alkyl radical or saturated linear alkoxy having from 4 to 11 carbon atoms. As derivatives of formula (I) in which R 2 is a hydroxyl and R 3 is hydrogen, mention may be made in particular of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (CTFA name: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid), n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n -dodecanoyl-5-salicylic, n-octyl-5-salicylic, n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic, 5-tert-octylsalicylic, 5-butoxysalicylic, 5-ethoxysalicylic, 5-methoxysalicylic, 5-propoxysalicylic, 5-methylsalicylic, 5 -ethylsalicylic, and 5-propylsalicylic, these acids being eventually salified by a base. When Ri represents hydrogen and R2 a hydroxyl group, the derivative of formula (I) is an ester of salicylic acid. Preference is given to esters of fatty alcohols, such as esters of dodecyl, hexadecyl, stearyl, cetyl, myristyl, linoleyl, octyl, oleic, tridecyl alcohols, or esters of butyl, propyl, ethyl alcohols, or even polyol esters such as esters of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol or glycerol, or mixtures of these esters. It can be, in particular, cetyl salicylate, dodecyl salicylate and tridecyl salicylate. The salicylic acid and its derivatives are used in the composition according to the present invention, in sufficient quantity to achieve the expected cosmetic or dermatological result. The amount of salicylic acid and / or derivative (s) of salicylic acid preferably ranges between 0.001 and 10% by weight and better between 0.05 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention has a pH between 4 and 7, and preferably between 4 and 6. A great compatibility of the emulsion of the invention with respect to the skin occurs.

The composition of the invention is intended for topical application and suitably comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By physiologically acceptable means, means a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes (including the inside of the eyelids and lips), nails and / or keratin fibers (hair and eyelashes). The composition of the invention may contain, if necessary, a solvent to solubilize the salicylic derivative, such as octyldodecanol, certain glycols, short chain fatty alcohols (<; C12), or short chain esters (< C12). The composition of the invention is well tolerated even in the presence of such a solvent. The nature of the oily phase that enters the composition of the H / E emulsion is not critical and it can thus be constituted by all the fatty acids and particularly the oils, classically used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields. Among the oils that can be used in the emulsion of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of oils of vegetable origin (jojoba, avocado, sesame, sunflower, corn, soybean, safflower, grape seeds), mineral oils (petrolatum). , optionally hydrogenated isoparaffins), synthetic or synthetic oils (isopropyl myristate, cetearyl octanoate, polyisobutylene, ethylhexyl palmitate, alkylbenzoates), silicone oils (cyclomethicone such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, polydi ethylsiloxanes, polyethylphenylsiloxanes, polydimethylfluorosiloxanes ) and fluorinated oils. The other fatty acids which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example, fatty acids, fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol and waxes. The oily phase of the emulsion may represent from 1 to 50% and better from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase of the emulsion may contain in particular one or more alcohols and / or polyols such as ethanol, glycerin, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, in concentrations preferably ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase generally represents from 1 to 80% and better from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, in a known manner, the compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, such as the hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, the preservatives, the antioxidants, the perfumes, the fillers, the coloring matters (pigments) or dyes), sunscreens, solvents and also lipid vesicles. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and for example between 0.01 and 20% of the total weight of the emulsion, and are, depending on their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase or the oily phase of the emulsion. the composition, or also in vesicles. Of course, the person skilled in the art will try to choose this or these possible additives and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically related to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially, altered by the addition (s) considered . As sunscreens, mention may be made, for example, of octocrylene (Uvinul N539 marketed by the BASF Company), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX marketed by the Givaudan-Roure Company), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 marketed by the Givaudan-Roure Company) . As the solvent which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol. Depending on the fluidity of the composition to be obtained, one or more gelling agents may be added, such as clays, polysaccharide gums and their derivatives (xanthan gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar), carboxyvinyl or carbomer polymers, polyacrylamides such as the one sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 by the SEPPIC Company and the polymers of at least partially crosslinked acrylamide ethylpropane sulphonic acid such as the product marketed under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS by the Company HOECHST. These gelling agents are generally used at concentrations ranging between 0.1 and 10%, preferably between 0.1 and 5% and better between 0.1 and 3% of the total weight of the composition. The Compositions, object of the invention, find their application in a large number of cosmetic and / or dermatological treatments of the skin, of the mucous membranes and / or of the hair included in the scalp, particularly for the protection, treatment, cleaning and / or make-up of the hair. skin and / or mucous membranes, for the protection and / or treatment of the hair and / or for the therapeutic treatment of the skin, of the hair and / or of the mucous membranes and more especially of the lips. The compositions according to the invention can for example be used in face treatment or cleansing products in the form of lotions, creams or milks, as make-up products (skin and lips) by incorporating fillers, pigments or dyes, or as solar composition by the incorporation of solar filter (s). The compositions of the invention have been shown particularly suitable for the treatment and / or make-up of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers of the human being, and particularly for combating the signs of skin aging and / or for smoothing the skin of the face and / or body and / or to treat wrinkles and small wrinkles of the skin and / or to stimulate the epidermal renewal process and / or to treat acne and / or to treat skin disorders . They allow a little by little treatment of human skin. For skin disorders, it is understood in particular the area, burns, eczema, cutaneous parasitic disease, skin ulcer, fibrosis, control of scarring, psoriasis, pruritus, dermatitis, ichthyosis, callosities and the warts The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for the protection, treatment, cleaning and / or make-up of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, consisting of applying to the skin. and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, a composition as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for combating the signs of skin aging and / or improving the brightness of the color and / or smoothing the skin of the face and / or body and / or treating wrinkles and small wrinkles. wrinkles of the skin and / or stimulate the process of epidermal renewal, consisting in applying a composition on the skin as defined above. The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition defined above for little by little treatment of human skin. The invention also aims to use the composition defined above for the manufacture of a dermatological composition intended to combat the signs of skin aging and / or to combat acne and / or to combat against skin disorders. Other features and advantages of the invention will be better understood from the examples that follow, given for illustrative purposes and not limiting. The proportions are given in percentage by weight.

Example 1: Cream A - Glucate SS [Amerchol] (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 2% Stearyl alcohol 1.5% Cyclomethicone 10% Hydrogenated Isoparaffin 7% Octocrylene (Uvinul N539) 2% Octyldodecanol 5% Salicylic Capriloil 1% Perfume 0.3% B - Water csp 100% Glycerin 5% Glucamate SSE-20 [Amerchol] (PEG-20 Methyl glucose sesquistearate) 2% Conservatives 0.6% C - Hostacerin AMPS 1.2% D - Sepigel 305 1% Procedure: Phase A as well as phase B, were heated to 75 ° C until the perfect solubilization. Phase A was introduced into phase B under agitation, until a fine and regular emulsion was obtained. Phase C was added at 60 ° C and dispersed under stirring, then phase D was introduced in the same way. He refreshed himself under agitation. The cream obtained used in application on the skin, allows to increase the brightness of the color.

Example 2: Fluid Emulsion A - Glucate SS [Amerchol] (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 1.5 Stearyl Alcohol 1 Cyclomethicone 5 Octocrylene (Uvinul N539) 2% Octyldodecanol 3% Salicylic Capriloil 0.5% Perfume 0.2% Preservatives 0.1% B - Water csp 100% Glycerin 3% Glucamate SSE-20 [Amerchol] (PEG-20 Methyl glucose sesquistearate) 1.5% Preservatives 0.5% C - Water 15% Xanthan gum 0.1% D - Sepigel 305 1% Procedure: Phase A at 75 ° C was introduced in phase B at 75 ° C under agitation, until obtaining a fine and regular emulsion. Phase C was homogenized under stirring in water at 50 ° C then introduced under stirring at 50 ° C in mixture A + B. Phase D was introduced at 50 ° C and dispersed under stirring. The fluid obtained was refrigerated with stirring. An emulsion was obtained which, by regular application on the skin, improves cellular renewal.

TEST A cellular viability test on reconstructed skin (EPISKIN TM) was carried out with a support which is an emulsified gel based on AMPS ostacerin (comparative) and with an emulsion according to the invention. Tolerance is the better the greater the cell viability. The cell viability results are given in the following table.

This test shows that the emulsion according to the invention makes it possible to significantly increase the tolerance of the salicylic acid derivatives.

It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant, to implement said invention is that which is clear from the manufacture of the objects to which it refers. Having described the invention as above, the content of the following is claimed as property.

Claims (18)

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that it has a pH between 4 and 7, and that it contains (i) salicylic acid and / or at least one derivative of salicylic acid, (ii) ) at least one ester of fatty acid and glucose and / or alkyl glucose, and (iii) at least one oxyethylenated ether of fatty acid and glucose and / or alkyl glucose.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty chain in the fatty acid ester and (alkyl) glucose or oxyethylenated ether of fatty acid and (alkyl) glucose comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty acid ester and glucose or alkyl glucose ester are chosen from fatty esters of methylglucoside.

4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty ester of methylglucoside is chosen from the group consisting of the methylglucoside and oleic acid diester, the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid, the methylglucoside and acid ester isostearic, the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid, the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid, the mixture of monoster and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid, the mixture of monoster and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid and their mixtures .

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of fatty acid ester (s) and glucose or alkylglucose ranges between 0.1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated ether of fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose comprises from 10 to 100 oxyethylenated groups.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylated ether of fatty acid and glucose or alkyl glucose is selected from the oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acid and methyl glucose.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxyethylenated ether of fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose is chosen from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ether of methyl glucose and stearic acid in approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide, ether of polyethylene glycol of the mixture of monoster and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid in about 20 moles of ethylene oxide and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of oxyethylenated ether (s) of fatty acid and (alkyl) glucose ranges between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salicylic acid derivative is a derivative of formula (I) or a salt of said derivative: s in which: Ri represents hydrogen or an aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or ketoxy chain, saturated, linear, branched or cyclized, an unsaturated chain bearing one or more double bonds conjugated or not, these chains comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon and can be substituted by at least one substituent selected from the halogen atoms, the trifluoromethyl group, the hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or by a carboxyl function, free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester function of formula (II): where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic group or an alkenyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, R3 represents hydrogen or a straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or several substituents.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salicylic acid derivative is chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-octyl-5-salicylic acid , n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-ethoxysalicylic acid, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, 5-propoxysalicylic acid, 5-methylsalicylic acid, 5-ethylsalicylic acid, 5-pro? ilsalicylic acid, salts of these acids, cetyl salicylate, dodecyl salicylate, tridecyl salicylate and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of salicylic acid and / or derivative (s) of salicylic acid ranges between 0.001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase represents from 1 to 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one gelling agent.

15. Cosmetic treatment procedure for the protection, treatment, cleaning and / or make-up of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, characterized in that it consists of applying to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the keratin fibers, a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

16. Cosmetic treatment method for combating the signs of skin aging and / or improving the brightness of the color and / or smoothing the skin of the face and / or body and / or treating wrinkles and small wrinkles of the skin and / or to stimulate the process of epidermal renewal, characterized in that it consists in applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 on the skin.

17. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for the manufacture of a dermatological composition intended to combat the signs of skin aging and / or to combat against acne and / or to combat against skin disorders.

18. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any of claims 1 to 14 > for little by little treatment of human skin.