MXPA99006829A - Process for a cosmetic care of the skin and patch for realising said process - Google Patents

Process for a cosmetic care of the skin and patch for realising said process

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Publication number
MXPA99006829A
MXPA99006829A MXPA/A/1999/006829A MX9906829A MXPA99006829A MX PA99006829 A MXPA99006829 A MX PA99006829A MX 9906829 A MX9906829 A MX 9906829A MX PA99006829 A MXPA99006829 A MX PA99006829A
Authority
MX
Mexico
Prior art keywords
patch
skin
acid
matrix
treatment
Prior art date
Application number
MXPA/A/1999/006829A
Other languages
Spanish (es)
Inventor
H Gueret Jeanlouis
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of MXPA99006829A publication Critical patent/MXPA99006829A/en

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Abstract

Cosmetic skin treatment for application to dry skin for cleansing or to wet skin for delivery of active ingredients, utilizes an adhesive patch Cosmetic skin treatment with a patch comprising a polymer matrix on a support, where the matrix is self-adhesive on dry skin and contains one or more cosmetically active ingredients and one or more water-absorbing materials. Cosmetic skin treatment with a patch comprising a polymer matrix on a support, where the matrix is self-adhesive on dry skin and contains one or more cosmetically active ingredients and one or more water-absorbing materials, comprises either:(a) applying the patch to dry skin and then removing it to remove impurities from the skin;or (b) applying the patch to wet skin so that the water-absorbing materials (i) partially dry the skin so that the matrix still adheres to the skin (though less strongly than to dry skin) and (ii) absorb water and thereby redissolve the active ingredients so that they are in contact with the skin throughout the period of application. An Independent claim is also included for the patch.

Description

PROCEDURE FOR COSMETIC TREATMENT OF THE SKIN AND PATCH FOR THE PERFORMANCE OF THE PROCEDURE Field of the Invention The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic treatment method with the aid of a patch, apt to be applied to the skin in two different application modes, with a view to selectively obtaining, whether it is a cleansing action of the skin , or a specific treatment action. The invention also relates to a patch for carrying out the process.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In particular, the method of treatment of the invention refers to the application of the patch according to a first mode of application intended to perform a cleaning of the skin, this same patch being intended to allow a treatment of the skin, obtained during the application of the patch according to a second mode of application. It is particularly one of the objects of the invention to use a single and unique type of patch for the two cleaning and treatment modes, to prevent the Ref: 30899 user has to apply two types of different patches, and to exclude any risk of confusion between two types of patches. Thus, in addition to its cleansing action on the skin during the application according to the first mode of application, the patch considered by the present invention can be used to develop, according to a second mode of application, other actions, particularly a second treatment according to which the release on the epidermis of one or several cosmetically active compounds is carried out. According to the first method of application considered, such patches are effective, in particular, to eliminate the impurities present on the surface of the skin, with a view to preparing it for the second treatment. Such impurities may comprise residues related to environmental contamination, dead skin cells, sebum plugs, black spots, perspiration residues, etc. On the surface of the skin thus cleaned can then be applied another patch of the same type, even the same patch, according to the second mode of application, intended to exert on the skin, an emollient, moisturizing, softening, healing, regenerating, anti-aging action. -Wetting or tensioning, sunscreen, soothing, self-tanning or lightening, or to close or open the pores of the skin.
Background of the Invention It is known to use patches that allow, by transdermia, to administer active compounds, with a view to a systemic treatment. Such patches generally have a structure comprising several successive layers in the following order: a first layer, called the support layer, generally occlusive; a second layer, called a polymeric matrix, fixed to the support layer and containing the active compound (s), this layer being able to directly contact the skin and, if necessary, containing it to facilitate the fixation of the patch on the skin, an adhesive material; finally, a protective release film, which covers the polymer layer in a hermetic manner, in order to protect it from any external contamination during storage prior to the use of the patch. On the other hand, there are patches of occlusive treatments that allow active compounds to penetrate the epidermis. This type of patch is, in general, very little adhesive, it can comprise aqueous or hydrophilic formulas. These patches, intended for the treatment of the skin, are applied, generally, during a time of placement on the skin that can last from 15 minutes to 8 hours. Occlusive treatment patches are also known which are applied overnight to deliver an active agent to the epidermis, these patches having a very high adhesive power on the skin. These patches, when lifted, are aggressive and traumatizing to the skin, already sensitized by the previous treatment, running the risk of causing cracks, painful red spots or inflammations. This effect occurs, in particular, due to the increase in the adherence of the patch on the skin, depending on the duration of the application. There are, on the other hand, products of the dry mask type that the user moistens before application on the skin. This type of mask dries on the skin. These masks are designed to • clean the skin, particularly the pores, in depth. There are also dehydrated, water-rewet patches based on water-soluble polymers, which are removed, after drying, to de-scaly and clean the skin.
Self-adhesive patches comprising a hydrophobic matrix of polyurethane, polyacrylate, polyvinyl or silicone, provided with water absorbing particles are also known. The water absorbers are intended to re-solubilize water-soluble active agents contained in the matrix in the form of a suspension. Patches of this type have a relatively limited adhesive power. In addition, dry products of the type of treatment twill, non-adhesive, are known to moisten and not dry, to perform a care treatment on the face.
Description of the invention It is also one of the objects of the invention to perform a simple, alternate or accumulated treatment in two possible modes of application from the same type of patch. Another object of the invention is to allow two different treatment results, as the patch is applied according to a first dry application mode, or according to a second application mode in the wet state. It is another object of the invention to provide a patch incorporating different cosmetically active compounds, which, in addition to its action to remove impurities from the skin, under any form, present a second action, particularly moisturizing, softening, emollient, healing, regenerating, soothing, self-tanning, lightening, anti-wrinkle, sun protection, or a fat-reducing action. It is in particular one of the objects of the invention to prepare the skin in a cleaning step, apt to facilitate the administration of a skin treatment, in order to make the latter more effective. For this purpose, another object of the invention is to propose a simplified treatment, which uses a single type of patch, applicable in two different application modes. Also, the subject of the present invention is a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin by means of a patch constituted by a polymeric matrix deposited on a support, said self-adhesive matrix being on dry skin, and containing at least one active cosmetic compound. , and at least one hydroabsorbent compound, the said process consisting in applying, selectively, the patch: a) in the cleaning mode on dry skin, the detachment of the patch after application allowing, under the mechanical action resulting from the adhesion of the patch, remove the impurities it contains from the skin, or b) in the wet treatment mode, it (or the) hydroabsorbent compound (s) that allow, on the one hand, partially drying the skin, to maintain an adhesion of the matrix on the skin, whose adherence is reduced in relation to the adherence of the matrix on dry skin, and on the other hand, absorbing the water, resolubiliz All or part of the cosmetically active compounds contained in the matrix are placed in contact with the skin during the entire duration of the application. By the term "in the wet state" is meant a method of treatment according to which, either the skin or the surface of the patch intended to adhere with the skin, is previously wetted, particularly with water. Wetting the skin, however, is the preferred mode of application. Thus on dry skin, the patch sticks perfectly to the skin, thanks to the presence of the self-adhesive matrix, in contact with practically the entire surface of the patch with the skin. During the lifting of the patch, the impurities that are on the surface of the skin, and whose release can be favored by the presence of certain active agents, are torn off under the mechanical action of the adhesive. Eventually, active agents can be released on the skin during the lifting of the patch. In the wet state, the hydroabsorbents, separated from the free surface of the patch, by a very thin layer of adhesive matrix, absorbent of water, forming a particularly gel, or a network of fibers soaked with water, in which the active agents will be solubilized, and may be put in contact with the skin. In addition, by absorbing a part of the water, a certain number of anchoring points remain between the adhesive matrix and the skin, in order to allow a sufficient adhesion of the patch on the skin, whose adherence is significantly reduced in relation to the adhesion on skin. dry Another object of the invention relates to a patch, usable for carrying out the treatment procedure defined above. According to a preferred mode of the invention, this method consists of an application in the cleaning mode, followed by an application in the treatment mode. It is possible to perform these two applications, immediately one after the other. However, advantageously, the skin is allowed to rest, for example for a time comprised between 30 minutes and 12 hours. According to another possibility, the application of the patch in the treatment mode is carried out first on the skin, followed by an application in the cleaning mode. Thus, by means of an emollient treatment, the pores are opened to facilitate, subsequently, the deep cleaning operation. Generally, the application of the patch in the cleaning mode is done alternating with the application in treatment mode. It may be advantageous, however, particularly when the skin is oily, to perform a plurality of applications in the cleaning mode, alternating with a plurality of applications in the treatment mode. Preferably, the patch considered by the present invention is used during an application time, in the cleaning mode, ranging from about 5 seconds to about 5 minutes. In the treatment modality, the application can be carried out for a time ranging from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, even 60 minutes if necessary.
The cosmetically active compounds which can be incorporated in the patch matrix, according to the invention, are advantageously chosen from emollient, moisturizing, softening, keratolytic, de-caking, healing, regenerating, anti-wrinkle, tensile, sunscreen agents, soothing, self-tanning, depigmenting, lightening, or their mixtures. In addition, antioxidant agents, anti-free radicals, lip-regulators, anti-acne, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, refreshing, vascular, antibacterial, antifungal or nutrient protectants can be incorporated into the polymer matrix. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cosmetically active compound (s) is (are) dispersed homogeneously in the polymer matrix in the form of particles. This is interesting, particularly during the application of the patch in the treatment modality on wet skin, since the active agent is not solubilized in the matrix substantially, more than at the moment when its penetration must take place. The cosmetically active compound, which is particularly useful in the cleansing modality on dry skin, can advantageously be a compound having an action which allows the impurities to be detached from the skin (for example, the keratolytic agents, which release the cells of dead skin), followed by lifting on the patch by mechanical action of the adhesive. It can also be one or several compounds contained in the matrix, and capable of directly absorbing the greasy or aqueous secretions of the skin such as sebum or perspiration. In this regard, materials such as kaolin powder, Sienne earth, zeolites, polyamide particles (particularly those sold under the name "ORGASOL®" by the ATOCHEM Company) can be used, the latter also having a softening action in Skin contact. Mention may also be made of the powder of expanded thermoplastic micro-balls, sold under the trade name "EXPANCEL®" by the company KEMANORD PLAST, or modified starch powders, marketed by the company NATIONAL STARCH under the trade name "Dry Fio" ® ". A mixture of such materials can also be used. The active cleaning compounds that can be incorporated into the matrix include, in particular, keratolytic agents such as alpha- and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxyliands, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly alpha-hydroxy acids such such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, melic acid, citric acid, rnandélico acid, and generally, fruit acids and beta-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, particularly alkylated , such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid and its esters. Antibacterials can also be used, such as clindamycin phosphate, erythromycin or antibiotics of the tetracycline class. Such active ingredients are indicated when the skin has an acneic tendency, and can be used in combination particularly with emollient agents, softening agents, particularly honey or waxes, and / or healing agents, particularly certain mineral salts, such as zinc oxide. It is also possible to associate astringent agents, such as tannins or aluminum or zirconium hydrochlorides. In particular, one or more active agents selected from, inter alia, ascorbic acid and its biologically compatible salts and esters, enzymes, tensile effect components, such as protein, soy or wheat powders, hydroxylated polyacids can be used. , sucroses and their derivatives, urea, amino acids, oliphopeptides, hydrosoluble plant and yeast extracts, protein hydrolysates such as collagen and elastin, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B2, B6, H, PP, panthenol, folic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, allantoin, benzoic acid, hydroquinone, etc. The matrix can also comprise at least one fat-soluble compound selected from the following compounds: Da-tocopherol, DL-α-tocopherol, Da-tocopherol acetate, DL-α-tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F and vitamin glycerides F, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, retinol, retinol esters, retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, ß-carotene, D-panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate; jojoba and gooseberry oils rich in essential fatty acids; Asian acid, madecasic acid, asiaticoside, total centella asiatica extract, ß-glycyrrhetinic acid, α-bisabolol, ceramides such as 2-oleoylamine-1, 3-octadecane; phytaneotriol, milk sphingomycline, phospholipids of marine origin rich in polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, ethoxyquin; rosemary extract, lemon balm extract, quercetin, dry microalgae extract, steroid anti-inflammatory.
By way of example, the emollient agent is chosen from: volatile or non-volatile silicones, polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers; natural or synthetic oils such as mineral, vegetable and animal oils; fats and waxes; alcohols and fatty acids and their esters, esters and ethers of (poly) alkylene glycols; hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, petrolatum, squalane; lanolin alcohol and its derivatives; animal and vegetable triglycerides; the stearyl alcohol. The moisturizing agent is advantageously chosen from; glycerol, sorbitol and its derivatives, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, D- or DL-panthenol and their derivatives. Preferably, allantoin is chosen as the softening agent. The desquamating agent can be chosen from: alkylated derivatives of salicylic acid, such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, alpha- and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters. The anti-wrinkle agents are chosen, preferably, from the alpha- and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters; salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, azelaic acid, retinol and its derivatives. When sunscreen agents are present, these are chosen from UV-A filters and / or UV-B filters commonly used in anti-sunscreen compositions. As the thickening agent, for example, a-bisabolol is chosen. When a self-tanning agent is used, the latter is chosen from dihydroxy acetone and hydroxy naphthoquinone derivatives. Advantageously, the lightening or depigmenting agent is chosen from citric acid, hydroquinone, cojic acid, ascorbic acid. Generally, the polymeric matrix is constituted by a matrix based on silicone adhesive, or preferably, based on polyacrylic or polyvinyl adhesive. The adhesion of the patch according to the invention on dry skin (when it is in the cleaning mode) is typically between approximately 300 g / cm2 and approximately 800 g / cm2 (force exerted perpendicular to the plane of the adhesive surface, necessary for its detached from the skin), its adhesion being on wet skin preferably comprised between approximately 20 g / cm2 and approximately 300 g / cm2. The surface of the matrix intended to come into contact with the skin can be smooth or have roughness or relief. The thickness of the matrix can be variable, particularly as a function of the amount of active compound (s) and hydroabsorbent (s) used. Typically, this thickness can vary between 5 μm and 500 μm. According to an interesting feature of the invention, after the evaporation of the solvents, at least some of the particles of active agents or of water-absorbing agents or the agglomerates formed by such particles, emerge in relation to the average surface of the adhesive matrix. In practice, these particles do not generally emerge directly, but are actually coated by a very thin layer of said adhesive matrix. By way of indication, the particles emerge from a height that can range from a few microns to a few hundred microns, and preferably from 10 microns to 100 microns, and more preferably, from 10 μm to 70 μm. Preferably, the average thickness of the matrix (after the evaporation of the solvents) is lower than the largest dimension of the charges or particles of active agents or hydroabsorbent compounds present in the matrix. Where appropriate, if the indicated charges or particles form agglomerates, the average thickness of the matrix is less than the larger dimension of the agglomerated ones. This arrangement allows, in the wet treatment mode, to obtain the formation of a contact surface layer formed by water-soaked hydroabsorbents, particularly in the form of a gel, between the adhesive matrix and the skin, and in which the active agents can be solubilized, which can thus be put in contact with the skin. The thickness of the contact surface layer formed above the adhesive matrix can advantageously be 50μm to 100μm. Thus, only a small portion of the adhesive matrix is in contact with the skin, thus ensuring a reduced adhesion on the skin, sufficient nevertheless, possibly in combination with the intrinsic adhesion of the gel, to ensure the maintenance of the patch on the skin . Advantageously, the hydro-absorbing agent (s) incorporated in the polymeric matrix is (are) constituted by particles dispersed in said matrix. In effect, upon contact with the water present on the skin, particularly after wetting, the particles of the water absorbent agent capture the water, thus promoting the solubilization of a solid, water-soluble active compound. In any case, by means of this "in situ" solubilization of the water soluble active agent, its bioavailability is almost instantaneous, and any eventual interaction with the other compounds present in the polymer matrix is minimized. The water present in the skin (or on the patch before application) plays the role of solubilizer of the water-soluble active agent. Among the hydro-absorbent agents present in the polymer matrix in the dispersed state, there can be mentioned, preferably, the superabsorbent crosslinked polyacrylates with a high percentage of swelling in water, such as those marketed by NORSOLOR under the name "AQUAKEEP®"; polyvinyl alcohol; carboxyvinyl polymers such as those marketed by the GOODRICH Company under the names "CARBOPOL®"; semi-synthetic derivatives of cellulose such as carboxymethylcellulose; starches, biogomas such as xanthan gums, guar gums, gum arabic and adraganto gums, biosaccharides, scleroglucans; casein; the phytocolloids, co or the alginates, the carrageenans, the agar-agar, the gelatin and the cotton fibers. It is particularly preferred to use the superabsorbent crosslinked polyacrylates whose presence in the dispersed state in a hydrophobic polymer matrix allows an important percentage of water to accumulate, and favors, after hydration, a better availability of the particles of the other active compounds present, if necessary, in the matrix. The hydro-absorbent agent as defined above is preferably present in a proportion ranging from about 0.2% to about 20% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5% and 10% in relation to the total weight of the polymeric matrix. Essential oils may be included in the polymer matrix. Mention may be made, by way of example, of lavender, peppermint, nutmeg, spice clove, cedar, wheat seed, calophylum, safflower, coriander, fruit seed (grape, currant, orange, kiwi). Peppermint oil contains a high percentage of menthol, which, included in the matrix in microcrystalline form, provides a feeling of freshness on the skin.The support according to the present invention can be constituted by any suitable material impermeable to the active compounds contained in the adjacent polymeric matrix. The support has not only a function to support the polymer layer but also serve as a protective coating for it. It can be of the same dimension as the polymer layer or larger dimension such that it extends beyond the periphery of the polymer matrix. The support can be an occlusive support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material, selected from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chloride, ethylene and vinyl acetate copolymers, polyesters and polyurethanes, polyethylene terephthalate , or of a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in a layered form with at least one sheet of metal such as an aluminum foil. The support can be any suitable thickness to ensure the support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support is between about 20 μm and about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support is sufficiently flexible in order to be able to adapt perfectly to the profile of the skin, and so as not to provoke a feeling of discomfort in the user. Alternatively, the support may be non-occlusive. In this latter hypothesis, a support consisting of a paper, a weft of a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven material, a nonwoven material, a perforated nonwoven material is advantageously used. Advantageously, when a weft is used, it may be immersed in the polymeric matrix. Advantageously still, the support of the patch comprises at least one projection of small dimension, in the form of a fingernail, apt to favor the detachment of the patch. The patches according to the present invention can, moreover, be protected by the presence of a peelable or peelable protective film adjacent to the polymer matrix and / or by packaging in a suitable package, particularly impermeable to water and water vapor. The film may have a smooth or patterned surface. In the case of a stamped surface film, its adhesion on the matrix is decreased, thus favoring the detachment of the film.
When the polymer matrix is protected by a protective release film, it is removed at the time of use. It may be constituted by any material impermeable to the active compound as well as to any other component present in the polymeric matrix. Among the materials that can be used, one can preferably mention a sheet of silicone paper or a sheet of thermoplastic material treated to make it anti-adherent, for example with the aid of silicone or a varnish. Preferably, this protective release film is constituted by polyethylene. Advantageously, the protection sheet is constituted by two parts that overlap in a central portion of the patch, in order to facilitate thereby the placement without the fingers coming into contact with the matrix containing the active agent (s). According to an alternative, the protection sheet extends over a surface superior to the surface of the patch, and protrudes beyond the limits of the latter, in order to favor detachment. According to a particularly interesting embodiment, the polymer matrix can be colored in order to be able, in the cleaning mode, after having seen it, quantify and / or qualify the impurities extracted, by the adhesive surface of the patch. In this regard, colored pigments can be incorporated into the polymer matrix of the patch. In this case, it is advantageous that the color of the polymer matrix is dark, in order to make a sufficient contrast to evidence the impurities extracted from the skin. A) Yes, once detached from the skin, the patch carries on its colored adhesive surface, all the impurities that have been extracted during the treatment. Thus, when the patch is applied to dry skin, the adhesive ensures a "peeling" function of the skin. The amount of impurities extracted is representative of the desirable frequency of application of said patch. Thus, the presence of a significant amount of such residues indicates to the user that she should apply the patch on the basis of a relatively high frequency (eg, every day). A smaller amount of such impurities indicates that the frequency of use must be lower (for example, once a week). In other words, in the cleaning mode, a colored patch allows quantifying the effectiveness of the treatment it provides. In addition, the type of impurities extracted allows the user to choose the application time better, then in the treatment modality. The colored pigments may in particular be pigments of the type used in the food or cosmetic field, in particular for lipsticks or nail polishes. By way of example, synthetic pigments or mineral pigments, in particular pigments of zirconium or cerium oxide, as well as iron or chromium oxides and ferric blue, may be mentioned singly or in combination. You can use organic pigments, particularly carbon black, barium lakes, zirconium (D & amp;; C Network No. 9), strontium (D &C Network No. 6) calcium (D &C Network No.7), aluminum; the azo and anthraquinone pigments (D &C Violet No. 2). In a known way, the patches according to the present invention can be cut according to a suitable contour, corresponding to the surface area of skin to be treated, for example in the form of a mask for application on the face, particularly for application on the nose, the lips, the cheeks, the area between the nose and the upper lip, or to treat the crow's feet of the outer corner of the eye, the bags under the eye, or the wrinkles of the forehead. Of course, the patches according to the present invention can be cut under any other form necessary for an application on a certain area of the body. In general, the size of a patch according to the invention is between 0.25 cm 2 and 500 cm 2, and preferably between 1 cm 2 and 30 cm 2. The patches thus constituted and cut can be used, after the removal of the protective release layer, on a surface of skin to be treated, applying them directly on a dry skin area to exert a cleansing action. During this application of the active agents that favor the detachment of impurities from the skin and the elimination of dead cells, they penetrate into the epidermis and the deeper layers of the skin. Thanks to the strong adhesion of the dry patch, during the lifting of the patch, these impurities and dead cells remain stuck on the "apparent surface of the patch." The lifting of the patch may be accompanied by a slight irritation of the skin, which is manifested by the appearance of a small redness, which causes an increase in the blood supply of the dermis, which results in a better diffusion of the active agents, previously migrated to the epidermis, towards the deeper layers of the dermis, even in the long term , a stimulus of cutaneous angiogenesis.
Following the detachment of the patch, after a suitable rest period, the user applies a second patch of the same type on the area of the skin, previously wetted with water, to make its application in the treatment modality. Generally, the application time in the treatment mode is longer than the application time in the cleaning mode. After a suitable application time, the treating active agents are solubilized in the intermediate layer formed above the adhesive matrix and are brought into contact with the skin. The adherence of the patch during this treatment phase is ensured by the presence of hydro-absorbent compounds that fulfill a double function. Indeed, on the one hand, they retain a necessary amount of water for the solution of active treatment compounds, and on the other hand, they create anhydrous anchor points on the surface of the matrix, allowing it to exert its adhesive power regarding the surface of the skin. After a suitable resting time has elapsed, the patch can be lifted. Thus, another application cycle can be started at the desired time. The treatment can be modulated in a way that best suits the needs of the skin to be treated, in terms of frequency and duration of application. This is how a patch is made that can be applied in two different ways: a cleaning mode and a treatment mode. The active agents that act if necessary in the cleaning mode may not be the same as those that act in the treatment modality. The sequences of application according to one or the other of these two modes can be chosen at will according to the needs of the skin. EXAMPLE OF APPLICATION A patch was made including: a) A polyethylene sheet that constitutes the support of the patch and that has a thickness of 200 μm; b) A polymer matrix made in the form of a 0.2 mm thick layer comprising: ascorbic acid 1.5% menthol 0.5% washing essence 0.1% lactic acid 5% polyamide powder (ORGASOL ®) 5% citric acid 1,5% allantoin polyacrylate of hydroabsorbent (AQUAKEEP®) 5% acrylic polymer self-adhesive csp 100% This matrix has an adhesive power on dry skin of approximately 500 g / cm2; c) a sheet of siliconized paper that constitutes the release protective film. The observation of the surface of the matrix in the dry state shows the presence of numerous reliefs (formed by particles of active agents or of hydroabsorbents, or of agglomerates of such particles) disseminated more or less regularly on the surface of the patch, and protruding in relation to the central surface of the layer at a height of approximately 50 μm. A patch thus constituted, such as to make an application on the forehead, is cut, for example, in the form of a 3 cm x 8 cm rectangle. During use, in the cleaning mode, the patch, after removal of the release film, is applied directly to the forehead, for a period of approximately 5 minutes. During this period, due to the presence of lactic acid, the detachment of dead skin cells on the surface is favored.
When after this period, the patch is removed, the dead cells remain fixed in the adhesive matrix. After a resting time of 30 minutes, the forehead is wetted with water. A second patch of the same type is then applied to the wet forehead, and allowed to stand for 30 minutes. At the end of this time, after the detachment of the second patch, a clearing of the treated area can be observed, together with the presence of ascorbic acid and citric acid. On the other hand, thanks to the action of the allantoin, the skin of the treated area has gained in flexibility, and has more softness to the touch. It also shows a blurring of the forehead wrinkles.
It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention. Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following:

Claims (41)

R E I V I N D I C A C I O N S
1. Method of cosmetic treatment of the skin by means of a patch constituted by a polymeric matrix deposited on a support, said self-adhesive matrix being on dry skin, and containing at least one active cosmetic compound, and at least one hydroabsorbent compound, characterized because the indicated procedure consists in selectively applying the patch: a) in the cleaning mode on dry skin, the detachment of the patch after application allowing, under the mechanical action resulting from the adherence of the patch, to remove from the skin the impurities that it contains, or b) in the wet treatment mode, the hydroabsorbent compound (s) that allow, on the one hand, partially drying the skin, maintaining an adhesion of the matrix on the skin, whose adherence is reduced in relation to the adhesion of the matrix on dry skin, and on the other hand, absorbing water, resolubilizar all or part of the c cosmetically active ingredients contained in the matrix to put them in contact with the skin during the entire time of application.
2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the support is occlusive.
3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the support is made of a thermoplastic material, selected from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chloride, ethylene and vinyl acetate copolymers, polyurethanes and polyesters, or a complex of such materials, polyethylene terephthalate covered by an aluminum sheet.
4. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the support is non-occlusive.
5. Process according to claim 4, characterized in that the support is made of paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven material, a nonwoven material, a perforated nonwoven material.
6. Treatment method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of an application in the cleaning mode, followed by an application in the treatment mode.
7. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it consists of an application in the treatment mode, followed by an application in the cleaning mode.
8. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically active compound is chosen from emollients, moisturizers, softeners, keratolytics, descalers, healing, regenerants, anti-wrinkles, tensors, sunscreens, painkillers, self-tanning agents, brighteners or its mixtures.
9. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically active compound is dispersed in the polymer matrix in the form of particles.
10. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application in the cleaning mode is performed alternately with the application in the treatment mode.
11. Processing method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that a plurality of applications are performed in the cleaning mode alternatively with a plurality of applications in the treatment mode.
12. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application in the cleaning mode is carried out for a time ranging from approximately 5 seconds to approximately 5 minutes.
13. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application in the treatment modality is carried out for a time ranging from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 30 minutes.
14. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the patch has an adhesive power on dry skin comprised between approximately 300 and approximately 800 g / cm2.
15. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the patch has an adhesive power in the wet state comprised between approximately 20 and approximately 300 g / cm2.
16. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically active compound is chosen from water-soluble active agents such as ascorbic acid and its biologically compatible salts, enzymes, antibiotics, components with a tensor effect, a-hydroxy acids and their salts, hydroxylated polyacids, sucrose and their derivatives, urea, amino acids, oligopeptides, water-soluble plant and yeast extracts, protein hydrolysates, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B2, B6, H, PP, panthenol, folic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, allantoin, glycyrrhetic acid, coic acid, hydroquinone.
17. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically active compound is chosen from the fat-soluble compounds such as Datocopherol, DL-α-tocopherol, Da-tocopherol acetate, DL-α-tocopherol acetate, palmitate ascorbyl, vitamin F and vitamin F glycerides, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, retinol, retinol esters, retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, ß-carotene, D-panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate; jojoba and gooseberry oils rich in essential fatty acids; keratolytics such as salicylic acid, its salts and its esters of m-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid and its esters, alkylesters of a-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid; Asian acid, madecasic acid, asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract, ß-glycyrrhetinic acid, α-bisabolol, ceramides such as 2-oleoylamine-1, 3-octadecane; phytaneotriol, milk sphingomycline, phospholipids of marine origin rich in polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, ethoxyquin; rosemary extract, lemon balm extract, quercetin, dry microalgae extract, steroid anti-inflammatory.
18. Process of treatment according to claim 8, characterized in that the keratolytic agent is chosen from: alpha- and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, acid lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and, in general, fruit acids and beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its particularly alkylated derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid .
19. processing method according to claim 8, characterized in that the emollient agent is selected from: volatile or non-volatile silicones, polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers; natural or synthetic oils such as mineral, vegetable and animal oils; fats and waxes; alcohols and fatty acids and their esters; esters and ethers of (poly) alkylene glycols, hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, petrolatum, squalane, lanol alcohol and their derivatives; animal and vegetable triglycerides; the stearyl alcohol.
20. Process of treatment according to claim 8, characterized in that the hydrating agent is chosen from: glycerol, sorbitol and its derivatives, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol: D-, or DL-panthenol and its derivatives.
21. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the softening agent is chosen from: allantoin.
22. Process of treatment according to claim 8, characterized in that the desquamating agent is chosen from: the alkylated derivatives of salicylic acid, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, alpha- and beta-hydroxy-carboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts , amides or esters.
23. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the anti-wrinkle and tensor agents are chosen from: alpha- and beta-idroxycarboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters; salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, azelaic acid, resinol and its derivatives.
24. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the sunscreen agent is selected from UV-A filters and / or UV / B filters.
25. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the calming agent is chosen from: a-bisabolol.
26. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the self-tanning agent is selected from: dihydroxy acetone and hydroxy naphthoquinone derivatives.
27. Process of treatment according to claim 8, characterized in that the lightening agent is chosen from: citric acid, hydroquinone, cojic acid, ascorbic acid.
28. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer matrix of the patch contains an acrylic or vinyl polymer.
29. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroabsorbent compound is chosen from the cross-linked superabsorbent polyacrylates; polyvinyl alcohol; the carboxyvinyl polymers; the semi-synthetic derivatives of cellulose; the starches; biogomas such as xanthan gums, guar gums, gum arabic and adraganto gums, biosaccharides, scleroglucans; casein; phytocolloids, such as alginates, gelatin, and cotton fibers.
30. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the patch comprises at least one projection, capable of forming a grip area for peeling.
Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer matrix is colored in order to be able to see, quantify and / or qualify the impurities extracted by said adhesive surface in the cleaning mode.
32. Treatment method according to claim 31, characterized in that the polymer matrix of the patch is colored by incorporation of colored pigments.
Treatment process according to claim 31 or 32, characterized in that the color of the polymer matrix is darkened, in order to make a sufficient contrast to show the impurities extracted from the skin.
34. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer matrix includes a weft, made of a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven material, a nonwoven material, a perforated nonwoven material.
35. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the patch comprises a protection sheet, peelable before the application of the patch, and impermeable to the compound (s) that enter the composition of the layer. polymeric
36. The treatment method according to claim 35, characterized in that the patch protection sheet is constituted by two parts that overlap a central portion of the patch.
37. Treatment method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the shape of the patch is adapted to the shape of the nose, of the lips, of the area between the nose and the upper lip, or to treat the apt of Rooster from the outer corner of the eye, bags under the eye, or wrinkles on the forehead.
38. Patch constituted by a polymeric matrix deposited on a support, said self-adhesive matrix being on dry skin, and containing at least one cosmetically active compound, and at least one hydroabsorbent compound, characterized by being the indicated patch capable of being selectively applied: a) in the cleaning mode on dry skin, the detachment of the patch after application allowing, under the mechanical action resulting from the adhesion of the patch, to remove from the skin the impurities that it contains, or b) in the wet treatment mode, the hydroabsorbent compound (s) that allow, on the one hand, partially drying the skin, maintaining an adhesion of the matrix on the skin, whose adherence is reduced in relation to the adhesion of the matrix on dry skin, and on the other hand, absorbing water, resolubilizar all or part of the cosmetically active compounds contained in the matrix to put them in contact with the skin during the entire time of application, forming an intermediate layer between the matrix and the skin.
39. Patch according to claim 38, characterized in that the matrix contains particles of hydroabsorbents, and possibly active compounds, or agglomerates of such particles, emerging in the dry state relative to the average surface area of the matrix, and capable of forming the indicated intermediate layer in wet state.
40. Patch according to claim 39, characterized in that said particles or agglomerates of particles protrude in relation to the average surface of the matrix, at a height ranging between 10 microns and 100 microns, and preferably, from 10 μm to 70 μm.
41. Patch according to any one of claims 38 to 40, characterized in that the intermediate layer formed in the wet state has a thickness comprised between 50 μm and 100 μm.
MXPA/A/1999/006829A 1998-07-31 1999-07-22 Process for a cosmetic care of the skin and patch for realising said process MXPA99006829A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9809880 1998-07-31

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
MXPA99006829A true MXPA99006829A (en) 2000-10-01

Family

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