MXPA99005508A - Cosmetic composition containing a polyacaride and an acrylic terpolime and use of this composition for the treatment of queratini matters - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium at least one polysaccharide and an acrylic terpolymer, as well as the use of these compositions for treating the skin or hair. The acrylic terpolymer comprises: a) about 20 to 70% by weight of a carboxylic acid having alpha, beta-monoethylenic unsaturation, b) about 20 to 80% by weight of a monomer having monoethylenic, non-surfactant unsaturation, different from a) and c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydric nonionic surfactant with a monoisocyanate having monoethylenic unsaturation. The polysaccharide is preferably a gum of gu

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A POLYCARCHID AND A ACRILICO TERPOLIMERO AND USE OF THIS COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATTERS Description of the invention The present invention is concerned with cosmetic compositions containing in association at least one polysaccharide and an acrylic terpolymer, as well as with the use of these compositions for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular hair . The polysaccharides of the polysaccharide type lead to a very good combing or hair-styling effect. However, most are not thickeners or if they are, provide gels of insufficient viscosity or fleeting texture. It is thus necessary, when it is desired to present them in the form of a styling gel or a headdress, to associate them with a thickener that gives them an appropriate texture while retaining the good cosmetic performance of these products. The most commonly used thickeners are, in general, based on crosslinked acrylic polymers, such as the products sold under the name * CARBOPOL "by the company GOODRICH and those sold under the name" SYNTHALEN K "by the company 3V.These polymers used in combination with polysaccharides REF .: 30469 lead more frequently to gels of unsatisfactory texture and which are not satisfactory in the cosmetic results because they do not give the hair good disentangling or carmenadura properties and softness, they do not have a good fixing power. other thickening and / or gelling polymers comprising in their chain a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part constituted by a fatty chain, such as the product ^ PEMULEN TR1"marketed by the company GOODRICH or the polymers * ACRYSOL" marketed- by the company ROHM &HAAS. Polymer ^ PEMULEN TR1"used in association with polysaccharides does not lead It is a satisfactory texture and does not provide satisfactory results on the cosmetic plane, in particular as regards the fixing power. The polymer * ACRYSOL 44"in combination with a polysaccharide leads to a very fluid and cloudy product It has surprisingly been discovered that by using a new families of thickening and / or gelling polymers and by associating them with polysaccharides, cosmetic formulations can be obtained which they have a satisfactory viscosity at a relatively low pH, which are not doughy, which extend well in the skin and hair and which give them good softness, feel and caring or disentangling properties while having good fixing properties.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is cosmetic compositions containing, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous support, at least one polysaccharide and an acrylic terpolymer which will be defined in more detail in the continuation of the description. This polymer makes it possible in particular to prepare aqueous or hydro-organic compositions containing cosmetically acceptable clarified or unclarified solvents ranging from lightly gelled products to solid sticks or pastes. ~~ The advantages of this polymer are to be stable in electrolytic medium and to have a very good thickener power at pH equal to or greater than 5.5 which allows to reach a good level of viscosity and to be able to use high concentrations of alcohol. This polymer used in association with at least one polysaccharide makes it possible to produce non-pasty gelled products which have a good ease of spreading, are soft in application and have a good fixing power. It also makes it possible to improve the conditioning effect of the polysaccharides in the hair, in particular its feel.

The acrylic terpolymer used according to the invention is soluble or dilatable in alkalis. It is characterized in that it comprises a) about 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 25 to 55% by weight, of a carboxylic acid having α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation; b) about 20 to 80% by weight, preferably 30 to 65% by weight, of a monomer having onoethylene unsaturation, non-surfactant, different from a) and "c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight of a non-ionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydric nonionic surfactant with a monoisocyanate having monoethylenic unsaturation.The carboxylic acid with α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation: a) can be chosen from among numerous acids and in particular of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid Methacrylic acid is preferred A large proportion of acid is essential to give a polymeric structure which is solubilized and gives a thickener by reaction with an alkaline compound , such as sodium hydroxide, alkanolamines, amino methyl propanol or amino methyl propanediol.

The terpolymer must also contain an important proportion indicated hereinabove of a monomer b) having monoethylenic unsaturation which has no surfactant property. Preferred monomers are those which give water-insoluble polymers when they are homopolymerized and are illustrated by alkyl acrylates and methacrylates of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates. The most particularly preferred monomers are methyl and ethyl acrylates. Other monomers that can be used are styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Unreacted monomers are preferred, these monomers are those in which the single ethylenic group is the only reactive group under the conditions of polymerization. However, monomers containing reactive groups under the action of heat can be used in certain situations, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate. The monohydric nonionic surfactants used to obtain the nonionic urethane monomer c) are well known and are in general alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds containing an alkylene oxide which forms the hydrophilic part of the molecule. The hydrophobes are generally constituted by an aliphatic alcohol or an alkylphenol in which a carbon chain containing at least six carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic part of the surfactant. Preferred monohydric nonionic surfactants have the formula: wherein R is an alkyl group of 6 to 30 carbon atoms or aralkyl of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 'is an alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is an average number of about 5 to 150 and m is an average number from about 0 to 50, with the proviso that n is at least as large as m and that n + m = 5-150. As preferred alkyl groups of 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the dodecyl radicals may be mentioned and alkyl of 18 to 26 carbon atoms. As aralkyl groups, mention may be made in particular of the alkyl (8 to 13 carbon atoms) phenyl groups. The preferred R 'group is the methyl group. Monoisocyanate with monoethylenic unsaturation used to form the nonionic urethane monomer c) can be chosen from a variety of compounds. A compound containing any copolymerizable unsaturation such as an acrylic or methacrylic unsaturation can be used. An allylic unsaturation conferred by allyl alcohol can also be used. The preferred monoethylenic monoisocyanate is l'-a, a-dimethyl-m-isopropenyl-benzylisocyanate. The acrylic terpolymer defined hereinabove is obtained by means of aqueous emulsion copolymerization of components a), b) and c) which is quite usual and is described in the patent application EP-A-0 173 109. As terpolymers that can be to be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the reaction products of methacrylic acid as component a), ethyl acrylate as component b) and a non-ionic urethane macromonomer such as compound c) having the following structure ': wherein p 'is from 6 to 150 and preferably is equal to 130 and R2 is an alkyl radical of 8 to 13 carbon atoms, as described in Example 3 of the patent application EP-A-0 173 109. The preferred acrylic terpolymer used according to the invention is obtained from methacrylic acid as component a), methyl acrylate as component b) and a non-ionic urethane macromonomer as component c), which has the structure following: wherein p is from 6 to 150 and R1 is an alkyl radical of 18 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 24 carbon atoms, linear, of plant origin, such as the docosyl radical. The acrylic terpolymer is present in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in concentrations from 0.01 to 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. In accordance with the present invention, it is possible to use any polysaccharide or any polysaccharide derivative known per se, whether it is ho or opolisaccharide or heteropolysaccharide, of animal, vegetable, microbial, bacterial or synthetic origin. In a general manner, the polysaccharides and their derivatives which can be used in the context of the present invention are those which are particularly described in Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third edition, 1982, volume 3, pages 986-900 and volume 15 , pages 439-458"in * Polymers in Nature", by EA MacGREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley &; Sons, Chapter 6, pages 240-328, 1980"and in Industrial Gums -Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Edition Academic Press Inc.", the content of these three works is totally included in the present request as reference. According to the present invention, it can of course be used either a salt and the same polysaccharide and / or one of its derivatives or on the contrary apply several polysaccharides and / or different polysaccharide derivatives. As examples of polysaccharides or polysaccharide derivatives suitable for the application of the invention, mention may be made in particular of glycans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those extracted for example from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as yellow pea, tubers such as potato (or potato) or manioc (or cassava)), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, β-glucans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), fructosanas, inulin, levan, mannanas, xylans, lignins, arabanas, galactanas, galacturonans, chitin, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, galactomannans, gluco ananas, pectid and pectin acids, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glucosamine-glucans , gum arabic, tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carauba gums, guar gums and xanthan gums.

Preferred polysaccharides to be used according to the invention are guar gums. According to the invention, non-ionic, chemically modified or unmodified guar gums can be used. The unmodified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the name JAGUAR C by the company MEYHALL. The non-ionic-modified guar gums usable in accordance with the invention are preferably modified by hydroxyalkyl groups of 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups can be mentioned as examples. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum, in order to obtain a modified guar gum. by hydroxypropyl groups. The proportion of hydroxyalkylation corresponding to the number of alkyl oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present in guar gum preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2. Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC293 and JAGUAR HP105 by the company MEYHALL or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON. The polysaccharides are used in the compositions of the invention in proportions comprised between 0.01 and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention contain a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium. They have a pH of 3.5 to 11, preferably between 5.5 and 11 and even more preferably between 5.5 and 8.5. The cosmetically acceptable medium of the compositions according to the invention is more particularly constituted by water and optionally cosmetically acceptable organic solvents. Organic solvents can represent 0. 5 to 90% of the total weight of the composition. They can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents, lipophilic organic solvents, amphiphilic solvents or their mixtures.

Among the hydrophilic organic solvents, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched lower monohydric alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units and polyols. As amphiphilic organic solvents, mention may be made of polypropylene glycol (PPG) derivatives such as polypropylene glycol and fatty acid esters, PPG and fatty alcohol such as PPG-23 oleyl ether and PPG-36 oleate. As lipophilic organic solvents, mention may be made, for example, of fatty esters such as * diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, alkyl benzoates, dioctyl maleate. In order that the cosmetic compositions of the invention are more pleasant to use (softer in the application, more nutritious, more emollients) it is possible to add. a fat phase in the middle of these compositions. The fat phase can represent up to 50% of the total weight of the composition. This fat phase can comprise an oil or a wax or its mixtures and can also comprise fatty acids, fatty alcohols and esters of fatty acids. The oils may be chosen from animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils and in particular from petrolatum oil, paraffin oil, isoparaffins, poly-α-olefins, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils. Also, the waxes can be chosen from the animal, fossil, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes known per se. The compositions of the invention may contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic domain as other conventional gelling agents and / or thickeners; emulsifiers; surfactants; moisturizing agents; emollients; sun filters; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents such as ceramides; free anti-Tradicale agents; sequestrants; antioxidants; conservatives; alkalizing or acidifying agents; perfumes; charges; coloring matters; volatile silicones or not, modified or not, reducing. The amounts of these different adjuvants are those used classically in the domains considered. Of course, those skilled in the art will choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention, in such a way that the advantageous properties obtained intrinsically with the composition according to the invention are not substantially altered by the contemplated addition. The compositions according to the invention can be presented in any form suitable for a topical application, in particular in the form of a thick lotion, in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic gels, in the form of vesicular dispersions, in the form of simple or complex emulsions (( 0 / W, W / 0, 0 / W / O or W / O / W, where W = water, 0 = oil) and can be of liquid, semi-liquid or solid consistency, such as creams, milks, gels, gels - creams, pastes, sticks and possibly aerosolized and presented in the form of foams or sprays.These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as clarified or clarified hair products. not clarified, in particular for washing, coloring, care, conditioning, straightening, maintaining the hairstyle or headdress or the permanent or non-permanent formation of the hair. or touched, such as application lotions, lotions for brushing, fixing and combing compositions or headdress. The lotions can be conditioned in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump bottles or aerosol containers in order to ensure an application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of conditioning are indicated for example when it is desired to obtain a spray or a foam for fixing or treating the hair.

The compositions of the invention can also be shampoos, clarifying compositions or not, for applying before or after shampooing, coloring, decolouring, perming or straightening or straightening. The compositions of the invention can also be used as toiletries or hygiene products, such as protective creams, of treatment or care for the face, for the hands or for the body, in body or protective body milks, lotions, gels or foams for the care or cleaning of the skin. - The compositions of the invention can also be used as antisun compositions. The compositions may also consist of solid preparations constituting cleaning soaps or bars. The compositions of the invention can also be used as oral care products such as toothpastes, mouthwashes. The compositions can be make-up products such as face creams, bases, mascaras, eyeliners, lipsticks, nail varnish. Another object of the invention is a method of non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes, characterized in that a composition is applied to the keratin support. as defined hereinabove, according to the usual use technique of this composition, for example application of creams, gels, serums, lotions, milks on the skin, scalp or mucous membranes. The following examples illustrate the invention without presenting a limiting character.

Example 1: Hair styling gel "clarified" - methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate ethoxylated behenyl ester (40 OE) in 25% aqueous dispersion 0.5 g MA - hydroxypropyl guar rubber sold under the name JAGUAR HP105 by the company MEYHALL 0.5 g MA -2-amino-2-methylpropanol-l (AMP) pH adjusted to 7.5, how much is enough, -Perfume, preservative, dye, how much is enough - Demineralised water: how much is enough for 100 g A thick, non-pasty gel is obtained and it spreads very well in the hair. This gel gives the hair a soft touch and a good aptitude in the carmenadura or disentangling and has a good fixing power.

If the aforementioned terpolymer is replaced by the same amount of the polyurethane "CRYSOL 44" of ROHM and HAAS, a liquid and turbid product is obtained If the terpolymer is replaced by the copolymer of acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate of 10/30 atoms reticulated carbon * PEMULEN TR1"sold by GOODRICH, a slightly pasty gel is obtained which is less well spread and has poor fixing power.

Example 3: High protection solar gel - 4-terbutyl 4 '- methoxy dibenzoylmethane (' PARSOL 1789 'sold by the company ROCHE) 2 g - Benzene 1,4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) phonic) in 33% aqueous solution 3 g -2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2-ethylhexyl PUVINUL N 539"sold by BASF) 10 g - Methacrylic acid terpolymer / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40 OE) in 25% aqueous dispersion 0.55 g MA - Xanthan gum sold under the name 'RHODICARE S' by the company RHONE POULENC 0.8 g - 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8-heptamethylnonano 4 g - Glycerol 6 g - Propylene glycol 6 g - Ethylenediaminetetra (methylene phosphonic acid) ), pentasodic salt in 33% aqueous solution 0.3 g - Triethanolamine 0.92 g - 96 ° denatured ethyl alcohol 4.5 g - Sterilized demineralized water as long as it is sufficient for 100 g You get a spreadable gel that spreads well in - the skin . It is stated "that, with regard to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims (21)

1. Claims Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property: 1. A cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous support, at least one polysaccharide and a acrylic terpolymer comprising: a) about 20 to 70% by weight and preferably 25 to 55% by weight of a carboxylic acid having α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation; b) about 20 to 80% by weight and preferably 30 to 65% by weight of a monomer having monoethylenic, non-surfactant unsaturation, different from a) and c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight and preferably 10 to 50% by weight weight, of a non-ionic urethane monomer, which is the reaction product of a monohydric nonionic surfactant with a monoisocyanate having monoethylenic unsaturation.
2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the carboxylic acid having α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation a) is chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid.
3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the carboxylic acid having α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation a) is methacrylic acid.
4. 4. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the monomer having non-surfactant monoethylenic unsaturation b) is chosen from alkyl acrylates and methacrylates of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, styrene, vinyltoluene, acetate of vinyl, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride.
5. The composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the monomer having non-surfactant monoethylenic unsaturation is methyl or ethyl acrylate.
6. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the non-ionic monohydric surfactant used to obtain the nonionic urethane monomer c) has the formula: wherein R is an alkyl group of 6 to 30 carbon atoms or aralkyl of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 'is an alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is an average number of about 5 to 150 and m is an average number from about 0 to 50, with the proviso that n is at least as large as m and that n + m = 5-150.
7. The composition according to claim 6, characterized in that R is chosen from between the dodecyl radicals, alkyl of 18 to 26 carbon atoms and alkyl (of 8 to 13 carbon atoms) phenyl, m = 0 and n is an average number of about 5 to 150.
8. 8. The composition according to any of the claims 1"to 7, characterized in that the monoisocyanate having monoethylenic unsaturation used to form the non-ionic urethane monomer c) is 1'-a, a-dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate.
9. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the acrylic terpolymer is obtained in aqueous dispersion from methacrylic acid as component a), methyl acrylate as component b) and a non-urethane macromonomer Ionic of following structure: wherein p is from 6 to 150 and R1 is an alkyl radical of from 18 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 24 linear carbon atoms, of plant origin, such as the docosyl radical.
10. 10. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the acrylic terpolymer is present in concentrations of 0.01 to 20% by weight and preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the polysaccharides are chosen from among the glycans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those extracted for example from cereals such as wheat "corn or rice, of vegetables such as yellow pea, tubers such as potato (or potato) or cassava (or cassava)), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, β-glucans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalelluloses, ethyl- hydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), fructosans, inulin, levan, mannanas, xylans, lignins, arabanas, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectin and pectin acids, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars , glucosamine-glucans, arabic gums, tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carauba gums, guar gums and xanthan gums.
12. 12. The composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the polysaccharides are chemically modified or unmodified non-ionic guar gums.
13. 13. The composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the guar gums are modified by hydroxyalgroups of 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
14. The composition according to claim 13, characterized in that it contains a guar gum modified by a hydroxypropyl group.
15. 15. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the polysaccharide (s) are present in concentrations of 0.01 to 20% by weight and preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
16. 16. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it has a pH of 3.5 to 11, preferably of 5.5 to 11 and still more preferably of 5.5 to 8.5.
17. 17. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium is constituted by water or water and by at least one organic solvent selected from the group consisting of hydrophilic, lipophilic, amphiphilic or organic organic solvents. its mixtures
18. 18. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it also comprises at least one usual cosmetic adjuvant chosen from among the fatty substances, gelling agents and / or conventional thickeners, surfactants, moisturizing agents, emollients, sunscreens, hydrophilic active agents. or lipophilic such as ceramides, anti-free radical agents, sequestrants, antioxidants, preservatives, alkalizing or acidifying agents, perfumes, fillers, coloring matters, silicones and reducers.
19. 19. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, lotion, gel, vesicular dispersion, paste, solid stick or is packaged in an aerosol and comes in the form of foam or aspersion.
20. 20. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that it is used as a clarified or unclarified hair product for washing, dyeing, care or dressing, conditioning, carmenadura or desenredoredo, the maintenance of the hairstyle or headdress or the application in permanent hairstyle or not to the hair or as an antisun composition.
21. 21. A process of non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment for the protection of the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes, characterized in that an effective amount of such a composition is applied in the latter. as defined in any of claims 1 to 20.