MXPA99005068A - Oxidising composition for treating keratin fibres - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres comprising in an appropriate support for keratin fibres:(a) at least an oxidoreductase type enzyme with 2 electrons in the presence of at least a donor for said enzyme;(b) at least an anionic surfactant selected in the group consisting of (i) acylisethionates;(ii) acyltaurates (iii) acylsarcosinates;(iv) acylglutamates;(v) polyoxyalkylene carboxylic ether acids and their salts;(vi) fatty glucamide sulphates;(vii) alkylgalactoside uronates;(viii) alkylpolyglucoside anionic derivatives;(ix) their mixtures.;and the methods for treating keratin fibres, in particular for dyeing, permanently setting or bleaching hair using said composition.

Description

OXIDIZING COMPOSITION TO TREAT QUERATINIC FIBERS Description of the invention The present invention relates to an oxidant composition, intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, comprising at least one 2-electron oxide-reductase-type enzyme in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one particular anionic surfactant, as well as its uses for dyeing, for permanent deformation or for discoloration of keratin fibers, in particular human hair. It is common to dye keratin fibers and in particular human hair with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular para-phenylenedia, ortho or para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases generally called oxidation bases. The oxidation dye precursors, or oxidation bases, are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, can cause, by a process of oxidative condensation, colored compounds and dyes. REF .: 30427 It is also known that the nuances obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by associating them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen specifically among aromatic etadiamines, meta-aminophenols, etadiphenols and certain erocyclic compounds. The variety of molecules that come into play at the level of oxidation bases and couplers, allows obtaining a range of colors. The coloration called "permanent" obtained thanks to these oxidation dyes, must also satisfy a certain number of demands. For example, it should not present drawbacks from the toxicological point of view, it should allow obtaining nuances in the desired intensity and present a good resistance against external agents (light, weathering, washing, permanent waving, perspiration, rubbing). The dyes must also make it possible to cover the gray hair and finally be as non-selective as possible, that is to say, allow to obtain minute differences in coloration along the same keratin fiber, which may be sensitized differently (ie ruined) between its tip and its root.

The oxidation coloration of the keratin fibers is generally carried out in an alkaline medium, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. However, the use of the alkaline media in the presence of hydrogen peroxide has the disadvantage of causing a considerable degradation of the fibers, as well as a significant discoloration of the keratin fibers, which is not always desirable. The oxidation coloration of the keratin fibers can also be carried out by means of oxidant systems other than hydrogen peroxide: such as ethical systems. Thus, it has already been proposed to dye the fibers as unique, in particular in the patent application EP-A-0 310 675, with compositions comprising an oxidation dye precursor in association with enzymes such as pyranosaoxidase, glucose-oxy asa or uricasa, in the presence of a donor for these enzymes. These dyeing formulations, although they are applied under conditions that do not cause a degradation of keratin fibers comparable to that caused by dyes made in the presence of hydrogen peroxide, lead to discolorations that are not satisfactory either, from the point of view of the homogeneity of the color distributed along the fiber ("unison") as well as the chromaticity (brightness), the dyeing power and the resistance against various aggressions that the hair can suffer. It is known that the most common technique for obtaining a permanent hair deformation consists, in a first step, in effecting the opening of the disulfide bonds -SS- of the keratin (cystine) by means of a composition containing an adapted reducing agent ( reduction stage); subsequently, after rinsing the hair thus treated, in reconstituting in a second stage said disulfide bonds by applying on the previously stressed hair (curlers and others) an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also called fixing) in such a way as to finally give the hair the shape sought. Thus, this technique allows to indifferently perform either the curling of the hair, its stretching or its ironing. The new shape imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment such as the one mentioned above is above all durable and resists the action of washing with water or with Gha pú, contrary to the simple classical techniques of temporary deformation such as marking. The reducing compositions which can be used for the application of the first stage of a permanent wave operation generally contain, as reducing agents, sulphites, bisulfites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols. Among the latter, those commonly used are cysteine and its various derivatives, cysteamine and its derivatives, thiolactic acid or thioglisol acid, its salts as well as its esters, in particular glycerol thioglycolate. As regards the oxidizing compositions necessary for the application of the fixation step, in practice, compositions based on hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate or persalts such as sodium perborate are frequently used, which have the disadvantage of can ruin the hair. The problem of the permanent technique known up to now is that its application on the hair causes a long-term alteration of the quality thereof. The essential causes of this alteration of the quality of the hair are a reduction of its cosmetic properties, such as its brightness, its softness and a degradation of its mechanical properties, more particularly a degradation of its mechanical resistance due to an increase in thickness of the Keratin fibers at the time of rinsing between the reduction stage and the oxidation stage, which can also be translated by an increase in their porosity. The hair weakens and can crack during subsequent treatments or brushing. The same problem of alteration of the keratin fiber is found when proceeding to decolorize the hair. It is known that the permanent deformation or discoloration of keratin fibers can also be performed under milder conditions by means of oxidant systems other than hydrogen peroxide, such as enzyme systems. Thus, processes for permanent deformation or discoloration of keratin fibers have already been proposed, especially in the patent application EP-A-0 310 675, with compositions containing an enzyme such as pyranose oxidase, glucose oxidase or well the uricase, in the presence of a donor for said enzyme. These oxidizing formulations, although applied under conditions which do not cause degradation of the keratin fibers comparable to that caused by the conventional permanent or decolorization processes, lead to results that are not satisfactory either, as regards the resistance of the frying with time, to the compatibility of permanent or discolored hair with subsequent treatments, to the reduction of the degradation of the mechanical properties of the permanent hair, especially the reduction of the porosity of the hair, to the cosmetic properties such as the softness Q also as for the uniformity of the discoloration along the keratin fibers. The present invention aims to solve the aforementioned problems. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered novel compositions containing at least one oxidant system as a 2-electron oxidoreductase enzyme in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one particular anionic surfactant which will be defined below in the description, which can constitute, in the presence of oxidation dye precursors (oxidation bases) and, optionally, couplers, ready-to-use dyeing formulations, which lead to more homogeneous, more powerful and more chromatic colorations without causing significant, unspecific degradation and that resist well to the various aggressions that hair can suffer. The Applicant has also discovered unexpectedly that the use, in a process of permanent deformation of the keratin fibers, of an oxidizing composition containing, as an oxidizing system, at least one 2-electron oxide-reductase type enzyme in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one particular anionic surfactant that will be defined later in the description, allowed to solve the technical problems mentioned above. In particular, this type of oxidizing composition allows to improve the resistance to the frisado obtained with time, to reduce significantly the porosity of the permanent hair and to improve the compatibility of the permanent hair with the subsequent treatments. The Applicant has also surprisingly discovered that the use, in a permanent discoloration process of the keratin fibers, of an oxidizing composition containing, as an oxidant system, at least one 2-electron oxide-reductase type enzyme in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one particular anionic surfactant that will be defined later in the description, allowed to solve the aforementioned technical problems, in particular to improve the compatibility of the bleached hair with the subsequent treatments. This type of oxidizing composition allows a more uniform decolorizing effect on the hair to be obtained, improving the cosmetic properties such as softness.

In all three cases, the oxidizing compositions of the invention exhibit increasing safety. These findings are the basis of the present invention. Therefore, the present invention has as its first objective a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of human keratin fibers and more particularly of human hair, comprising, in a suitable support for the keratin fibers: (a) at least one enzyme of the oxy-or-redugtase type of 9 electrons in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme; (b) at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of: (i) the acyl isethionates; (ii) aci 1 tauratos; (iii) acyl sarcosinates; (iv) aci Igloo amatos; (v) polyoxyalkylene carboxylic acid acids and s? s s; (vi) the glucamides fats sulfates; (vii) the alkylactosylacidones; (viii) the anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside; (ix) their mixtures. The 2-electron oxide-reductases used in the oxidant compositions according to the invention can be chosen specifically among the pyranose oxidases, the glucose oxidases, the glycerol oxidases, the lactate oxidases, the pyruvate oxidases and the uricases. According to the invention, the 2-electron oxide reductase is preferably chosen from uricases of animal, microbiological or biotechnological origin. As an example, we can mention the uricase extracted from the liver of the boar, the uricase from Arthrobacter globiformis, as well as the uricase from Aspergillus flavus. The 2-electron oxide-reductases can be used in pure crystalline form or in diluted form in an inert diluent for said 2-electron oxide reductase. The 2-electron oxide-reductases according to the invention preferably represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight approximately of that weight.

According to the invention, the term "donor" is understood to mean the different substrates also necessary for the operation of said or said 2-electron oxide reductases. The nature of the donor (or substrate) for said enzyme varies depending on the nature of the 2-electron oxide-reductase used. For example, as a donor for pyranose oxidases, D-glucose, L-sorbose and D-xylose may be mentioned; as a donor for glucose oxidases, D-glucose may be mentioned; as a donor for the glycerol oxidases, glycerol and dihydroxyacetone may be mentioned; as a donor for lactate oxidases, mention may be made of lactic acid and its salts; as a donor for the pyruvate oxidases, pyruvic acid and its salts may be mentioned; and finally as a donor for the uricasas, uric acid and its salts can be cited. The donor (s) (or substrates) used according to the invention preferably represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition according to the invention and even more preferably from 0.1 to 5%. about that weight. The preferential acylisates and acyltaurates according to the invention correspond to the following general structure: where R denotes a group R * COO or a group with R * which designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group at C0-C30 and 2 designates hydrogen or an alkyl radical on G? -G and M designates H, ammonium , Na or K or an organic amine residue, especially alkanolamine. The acyl sarcosinates and the preferential acylglutamates usable according to the invention correspond to the following general structure: where Pi and M have the same significances indicated above for formula (I); _ designates CH, and R, designates hydrogen or R_. denotes hydrogen and R designates CH_CH_COO ~ M + The polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ethers and their salts, according to the invention, are preferably those possessing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups and their mixtures. The anionic surfactants of the acid type or carboxylic ether salts are in particular those which correspond to the following formula (II!): R5- (Oc¿H4) n-OCH2COOA (III) wherein: R5 designates an alkyl or alkylaryl group and n is an integer or decimal number (average value) which may vary from 2 to 24 and preferably from 3 to 10, the alkyl radical having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms and designating preferably aryl phenyl, A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine moiety. Mixtures of compounds of formula (III) can also be used, in particular mixtures in which the Rs groups are different. Compounds of formula (III) are sold, for example, by the company KAO under the names AKYPOS (NP40, NP70, OP40, OP80, RLM25, RLM25, RLM38, R MQ 38 NV, RLM45, RLM 95 NV, RLM 100, RLM 100 NV, RO 20, RO 90, RCS 60, RS 60, RS 100, RO 50) or by the company SANDOZ under the names SANDOPAN (DTG Acid, DTC).

The glucamides fats sulfates which can be used according to the invention, are those described in the patent application DE 44 43 645 whose content forms an integral part of the description. The alkylgalactoside uronates which can be used according to the invention are those described in patent EP-B-0701 430 whose content forms an integral part of the description. The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside are preferably chosen from: the sulphates, the sulphonates of alkyl polyglucoside or their mixtures; - the ether polycarboxylates of alkyl polyglucoside; - the alkyl polyglucoside sulfosuccinates; - the alkyl polyglucoside isethionates; - the alkyl polyglucoside phosphates. These anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside are specifically described in DE 39 18 135, DE 40 21 760, DE 42 39 390, DE 43 36 803, DE 43 37 035 and US 5 001 114. The compositions according to the invention contain the particular anionic surfactants defined above with weight levels which may be comprised between 0.1% and 20%, preferably between 0.5% and 15% and even more preferably between 1% and 10%, with respect to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also has a ready-to-use composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers and in particular of human keratin fibers such as hair, of the type comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, for at least one oxidation base and, if appropriate, one or more couplers, characterized in that it contains: (a) at least one 2-electron oxide-reductase-type enzyme in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme; (b) at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of: (i) acyl isethionates; (ii) acyltaurates; iii) acyl sarcosinates; (iv) acylglutamates; (v) polyoxyalkylene carboxylic acid ethers and their salts; 5 (vi) glucamides fats sulfates; (vi i) the alkylglycoside uronates; (viii) the anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside; (ix) their mixtures. The nature of the oxidation base (s) used in the ready-to-use dye composition is not critical. They can be chosen especially for enilendiamines, double bases, para-aminophenols, orthoaminoes and heterocyclic oxidation bases. Among the para-phenylenediamines which can be used as oxidation base in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds of the following formula (IV) and their addition salts with an acid: wherein: R, _ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C; -C, -oxydroxyalkyl in C1-C4, polyhydroxyalkyl in alkoxy (C? -Ci) alkyl (Gid), alkyl in G? ~ G4 substituted by a nitrogenous group, phenyl or 4'-aminophenyl; - R- represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in Ci-Cj, onchidroxyalkyl in G1-G4, polyhydroxyalkyl in C: -C, alkoxy (C: -C4), alkyl (G1-C4) or alkyl in CT-CÍ , replaced by a nitrogenous group; R n represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, an alkyl radical in G? -C4, monohydroxyalkyl in C.-C4, hydroxyalkoxy in C * -c4, acetylaminoalkoxy in carbamoyl or indoalkoxy - R. represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or an alkyl radical in C -.- C ,. Among the nitrogen groups of the formula (IV) above, mention may be made in particular of amino radicals, monoalkyl 1 (C -C) ai, dialkyl (C1-C4) amino, trialkyl (Ci-C.) Amino, monohydroxyalkyl (C ^ -4) amino, imidazolinium and ammonium. Among the parafeni lendiamines of formula (IV) above, mention may be made in particular of paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylendia ina, 2-chloro paraphenialendlane, 2,3-dimethyl for enilendlamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2, 6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino N, N-diethyl 3-methyl aniline , N, -bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, -bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-methyl aniline, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-Chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl for enilenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine 2-hydroxymethyl for enilenediamine, N, N-dimethyl 3- methyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) for enilenediamine, N- (β, β-dihydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, N- (4'-ammophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl parafen ilendiamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine and its addition salts with an acid. Among the parafeni-1-endiamines of formula (IV) above, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylene-diamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxy-1-paraphenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxy-ethyloxy-paraphenia-endiamine, 2, are especially preferred. 6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloroparaphenylenediamine, 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy paraphenylenediamine and its addition salts with an acid. According to the invention, "double bases" means compounds with at least two aromatic nuclei on which amino and / or hydroxyl groups are found. Among the double bases usable with oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds which correspond to the following formula (V) and their addition salts with an acid: in which: Z: Y Z, identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical or -NH2 which can be substituted by an alkyl radical in C: -d or by a linking arm Y; - the linking arm Y represents an alkylene chain with 1 to 14 carbon atoms, linear or branched, which can be interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen groups and / or by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen atoms, sulfur G of nitrogen and optionally substituted by a © © several hydroxyl or alkoxy radicals in C.-Cfi; R1C. and Rii represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl radical in G? -G4 monohydroxyalkyl in C1-G4, polyhydroxyalkyl in G2-C4, aminoalkyl in C1-C4 or a linking arm Y; - R: ^, R13, R14, R15, R1 and R1, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linking arm Y or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; it being understood that the compounds of formula (V) comprise only one link arm Y per molecule. Among the nitrogen groups of the formula (V) above, mention may be made in particular of the amino, monoalkyl (C -.- Ci) amino, dialkyl (C 1 -C 4) amino, tri alkyl (Ci-Cj) to ino, onohyd oxyalqui radicals 1 (C2-C4) amino, imidazolinium and ammonium. Among the double bases of formula (V) above, mention may be made in particular of N, N '-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) N, N' -bis- (4 '-a -nofeni 1) -1,3-diamino propanol, N, N'-bi - (ß-hydroxyeti 1) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminopheyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N ' -bis- (ß-hydroxyethyl) N, N '-bis- (-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (ethyl) N, N '-bis (4' -amino, 3 '- ethylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis- (2, 5-diamino enoxi) -3,5-di-x-octane and its addition salts with an acid. Among these double bases of formula (V), N, N'-bis-β-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-inophenyl) -1,3-diamino propanol, 1,8-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,5-dioxaoctane or one of its addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred. Among the paraaminoenols which can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds which correspond to the following formula (VI) and their addition salts with an acid: wherein: - P represents a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl radical in C-C4, hydroxy-alkyl in C1-C4, alkoxy (G1-G4) alkyl (G1-G4) aminoalkyl in G1-G4 or hydroxyalkyl (C * -C4) aminoalkyl in C * -C4, - R19 represents a hydrogen atom © of halogen, an alkyl radical in C1-G4, nohydroxyalkylene 1 in C1-C4, polyhydroxyalkyl in C; -G4 , C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl, cycloalkyl in C * -C or (C * -C 4) alkoxy alkyl. { C * -C4), it being understood that for 1 at least one © of the Rio © Ra radicals? represents a hydrogen atom. Among the inoffensive paraa of formula (VI) above, mention may be made more particularly of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl phenol, 4-amin-3-fluoro-phenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino 2-methyl phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl phenol, 4-amino 2- (b-hydroxyethyl-1-aminomethyl) phenol, 4- amino 2-fluorophenol and its addition salts with an acid. Among the ortho-aminophenols which can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methyl phenol, 2-amino-6-methyl-phenol, 5-acetamido. 2-amino phenol and its addition salts with an acid. Among the heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of pyridinium derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazole-pyrimidine derivatives and their salts. addition with an acid. Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the compounds described, for example, in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, together with 2,5-diamin-pyridine, 2- (4-met-xyphenyl) a in 3-Amino pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy pyridine, 2- (β-methoxyethyl) amino 3-amino 6-methoxy pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine and their addition salts with an acid. Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the compounds described, for example, in German patents DE 2 359 399 or Japanese JP 88-169 571 or patent application WO 96/15765, co or 2, 5,6-tetraaminopi. imidine, 4-hydroxy 2, 5,6-tri aminopi rimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy 5,6-dia inopyrimidine, 2, 5, 6-tr iaminopyrimidine and its addition salts with an acid. Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the compounds described in DE 3 843 892, DE 4 133 957, and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 799 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4,5-diamino-1-methyl pyrazolo, 3,4-diamino pyrazolo, 4,5-diamino l- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamin-1, 3- dimethyl piraz ©! ©, 4,5-diamin-3-methyl-1-phenyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenyl-pyrazolo, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazine © pyrazole ©, 1-benzyl 4,5-diamin © 3-methyl pyraz © ©, 4,5-diamino 3-tert-butyl 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamin © 1-ter -butyl 3-methyl pyrazolo, 4,5-diamino 1- (β-hydroxyethyl) 3-methyl pyrazolo, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ethyl 3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazolo, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-1-pyrazolo, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl-pyrazolo, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1 -isopropyl pyrazolo, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-is-propyl-pyrazolo, 4-amino-5- (2 '-to-inoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethyl pyrazolo, 3, 5-tri-amino pyrazolo, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triamino-pyrazolo, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino-pyrazolo, 3,5-diamino 4- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino 1-methyl pyrazolo and its addition salts with an acid. Among the pyrazolo-pyrimidine derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly pirozolo- [1,5-a] -pyridines, of formula (VII) below, their addition salts with an acid or a base and their tautomeric forms, when there is a tautomeric balance: in which: - R? n, R? -., R?, and Ro3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C1-C4, an aryl radical, a hydroxyalkyl radical in G? -G4 / a polyhydroxyalkyl radical in G2-G4, a radical (Gi-C4) alkoxyalkyl in C -.- C4, an aminoalkyl radical in Cv-C4 (the amine for an acetyl, ureido or sulfonyl radical), a (Cv-C4) alkylamino C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a di- [(G? -G 4) alkyl] amino alkyl radical in C 1 -C 4 (can form dialkyl radicals a carbon cycle or a 5- to 6-membered heterocycle), a hydroxy radical (G1-C4) alkyl- or di- [hydroxy (C1-C4) alky1 J-aminoalkyl in C? -G4; - the radicals X, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in G1-G4, an aryl radical, a hydroxyalkyl radical in G1-G4, a polyhydroxyl radical which in C-Qi t radical aminoalkyl in C -, - C, a radical (Cv-C4) alkylamino C1-C4 alkyl, a radical di- [(G? -G4) to the non-alkaline in C: -C (the dialkyls can form a cycle carbon (or a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle), a hydroxy radical (G1-G4) alkyl- or di- [hydroxy (C1-G4) alkyl] aminoalkyl at G1-G4, an amino radical, a radical (G1-G4) alkyl- or di- [(G? -C4) alkyl] amino; a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group, a sulfonic acid group; - i is 0, 1, 2 or 3; - p is 0 or 1 - which is 0 or 1 - n is 0 or 1 provided: - the sum p + q is different from 0; - when p + q is equal to 2, then n is 0 and the groups NR ^ 0R;? and R_R; 1 occupy the positions (2,3); (5,6); (6,7); (3.5) or (3.7); - when p + q equals 1, then n is 1 and the group NR - »-. R; (or NRJ; R;?) and the OH group occupy the positions (2,3); (5,6); (6,7); (3.5) or (3.7). When the radicals [1, 5-al-pyrimidines of formula (VII) above are such that they comprise a hydroxyl group in one of positions 2, 5 or 7 in a of a nitrogen atom, there is a tautomeric equilibrium represented by example by the following scheme: Among the pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pyrimidimás of formula (VII) above, mention may be made in particular of: - pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-dia ina; - pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; - 3-amino pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pyrimidin-7-ol - 3-amino pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pi imidin-5-ol 2- (3-amino pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidin-7-ylamino) -ethanol - 2- (7-amino-pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pyrimidin-3-ylamino) -ethanol 2 - [(3-Amino pyrazolo- [1, 5-aJ-pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -ethanol 2- [(7-Amino-pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pyrimidin-3-yl] ) - (2-hydroxyethyl-ammo] -ethanol 5,6-d? Methyl pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; - 2,5, N 7, N 7 -tetramethyl pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyridine-3,7 diamine; and its addition salts and tautomeric forms, when there is a tautomeric equilibrium. Pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pyrimidines of the formula (VTI) above can be prepared by cyclization from an aminopyraze ©! According to the syntheses described in the following references: EP 628559 BEIERSDORF-LILLY-R.Vishdu, H. Navedul, Indian J. Chem., 34b (6), 514, 1995. NS Ibrahi, K.U. Sadek, F.A. Abdbel-Al, Arch. Pharm., 320, 240, 1987. R.H. Springer, M.B. Scholten, D.E.O'Brien, T. Novinson, J.P. Miller, R.K. Robins, J. Med. Chem., 25, 235, 1982. T. Novinson, R.K. Robins, T.R. Matthews, J. Med. Chem., 20, 296, 1977. - US 3907799 TCN PHARCEUTICALS The pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pyrimidines of formula (VII) above can also be prepared by cyclization from hydrazine according to synthesis described in the following references: - A.McKillop and RJ Kobilecki, Heterocycles, 6 (9), 1355, 1977. - E. Alcade, 3. De Mendoza, J.M. Marcia-Marquina, C. Al era, J. Elguer ©, J. Heter © cyclic Ghe., 11 (3), 423, 1974. - K. Sait ©, I. Hori, M. Higaraschi, H. Midorika a, Bull. Chem. Soc. Japan, 47 (2), 476, 1974. The oxidation base (s) according to the invention preferably represent from 0.0005 to 12% by weight approximately of the total weight of the ready-to-use dye composition, and more preferably, from 0.005 to 6% in weight of approximately that weight. Usable couplers are those conventionally used in oxidation dyeing compositions, ie metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols and meta-diphenols, the mono- or pol-1-hydroxy derivatives of naphthalene sesamol and its derivatives and heterocyclic compounds such as for example the indole derivatives, the indoline derivatives, the benzimidazole derivatives, the benzomorpholine derivatives, the sesamol derivatives, the pi-azole-azolic derivatives, the pyrrole-azole derivatives, the imidazole-azole derivatives, the pyrazole pyrimidine derivatives, the derivatives of pyrazolin-3, 5-diones, the pyrrolo- [3, 2-d] - © xazélicTS derivatives, the pyrazo © © © [3, 4-d] -thiazoles derivatives, the S-oxide-thiazolo-azole derivatives , the S derivatives, -dioxide-thiazylbenzoic acid, and their addition salts with an acid. These couplers can be chosen in particular between 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy -2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l, 3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-l- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -benzene, 2-amino-4- (β-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1/3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis- (2, 4-diamino in © xi) -propane, sesamol, a-naphthol, 6-hydroxy-indole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindol , 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methyl-1-yl-ridine, 1-H-3-methyl-pyrazol-5-one, -pheni-1-3-methyl-1-pyrazole-5 -one and its addition salts with an acid. When present, such couplers preferably represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of approximately the total weight of the ready-to-use dye composition and even more preferably from 0., 005 to 5% by weight approximately of this weight. In a general manner, the addition salts with an anhydride which can be used in the framework of the dyeing compositions of the invention (oxidation bases and couplers) are chosen in particular from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates and tartrates, lactates and the acetates. The dye composition of the invention can also contain, in addition to the oxidation bases defined above and any associated couplers, direct dyes to enrich the shades in reflections. These direct dyes can be chosen specifically among the nitrated, azoic, anthraquinone-based. The invention also aims at a dyeing process for keratin fibers and in particular for human keratin fibers such as hair, which applies the ready-to-use dye composition as defined above. According to this method, at least one ready-to-use dye composition as defined above is applied to the fibers and allowed to act for a sufficient time to develop the desired coloration, after which it is rinsed, wash eventually with shampoo, rinse again and dry.

The time necessary for the development of the cysteine for the keratin fibers is generally between 3 and 60 minutes and more precisely between 5 and 40 minutes. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method comprises a preliminary step consisting in storing separately, on the one hand, a composition (A) comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation base and optionally at least one coupler as defined above, and on the other hand a composition (B) containing, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one enzyme of the oxido-reductase type of 2 electrons in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one anionic surfactant as defined above, then in mixing them at the time of use before applying this mixture to the keratin fibers. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant as defined above is incorporated into the composition (A). Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments or "kit" for dyeing or any multi-compartment conditioning system of which the first contains the composition (A) as defined above and a second compartment contains the composition ( B) as defined above. These devices can be equipped with a means for placing the desired mixture in the hair, such as the devices described in patent FR-2 586 913 in the name of the applicant. The subject of the present invention is also a new method for treating keratin materials, in particular hair, in order to obtain a permanent deformation of the latter, in particular in the form of permanent hair, a process comprising the following steps: (i) a reducing composition is applied to the kenetinic material, said keratin material being subjected to mechanical stress before, during or after said application, (ii) the keratin material is eventually rinsed, (iii) applied to the material keratin optionally rinsed an oxidizing composition as defined above, (iv) the keratin material is eventually rinsed again.

The first step (i) of this method consists in applying a reductive coating to the hair. This application is done per lock or globally. The reducing composition comprises, for example, at least one reducing agent, which can be chosen in particular from thioglycolerter, cysteine, cysteine ina, glyceryl thioglycolates, thioglycanic acid or the salts of thiolactic or thioglycolic acids. The usual step of tensioning the hair into a shape that corresponds to the final shape desired for it (loops for example) can be practiced by any means, especially mechanical, appropriate and known by itself for keeping the hair tensioned, as for example the curlers, curlers and the like. The hair can also be marked without the help of external means, simply with the fingers. Before proceeding to the next facultative step (ii) of rinsing, it is conventional to let act for a few minutes, generally between 5 minutes and one hour, preferably between 10 and 30 minutes, on the hair on which the reducing composition was applied, with so that the reducer acts properly on the hair. This waiting phase is preferably carried out at a temperature ranging from 35 ° C to 45 ° C, preferably protecting the hair with a cap. In the optional second stage of the process (step (ii)), the impregnated hair of the reducing composition is then carefully rinsed with an aqueous composition. Subsequently, in a third stage (stage (iil)), it is applied to the hair and thus rinsed the oxidizing composition of the invention, with the purpose of fixing the new shape imposed on the hair. As in the case of the application of the reducing composition, the hair on which the oxidizing composition was applied is then typically left intact in the waiting phase for some minutes, generally between 3 and 30 minutes, preferably between 5 and 15 minutes. If the tension of the hair is maintained with external means, the latter can be removed from the hair (curlers, curlers and the like) before or after the fixing step. Finally, in the last step of the process according to the invention (step (iv)), also optional step, the hair impregnated with the oxidizing composition is carefully rinsed, generally with water. You finally get an easy to untangle, soft hair. The hair is wavy. The oxidizing composition according to the invention can also be used in a decolorization process of the keratin fibers and in particular of the hair. The decolorization process according to the invention comprises an application step on the keratin fibers of an oxidizing composition according to the invention, in the presence or absence of an auxiliary oxidizing agent. Classically, a second stage of the decolorization process according to the invention is a step of rinsing the keratin fibers. The appropriate medium for the keratin fibers (or support) of ready-to-use dye compositions and of the oxidizing compositions used for the permanent deformation or decolorization of the keratin fibers according to the invention is generally constituted by water or by a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to soli- dize compounds that would not be sufficiently soluble in water. As an organic solvent, c © m © example the alGanoles in G1-G4 such as etan © l and is © pr © pan © l; the GÜGer © !; Glycol glycols and ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, methylmercury methylbenzene, monoethylether and monomethylether of diethylene glycol as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; analogs and their mixtures. The solvents can be present in proportions preferably comprised between 1 and 40% by weight approximately with respect to the total weight of the dye composition and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately. The pH of ready-to-use dye compositions and of the oxidizing compositions used for the permanent deformation or decolorization of the keratin fibers according to the invention is chosen such that the enzymatic activity of the 2-electron oxide reductase is not be altered. Generally it is comprised between 5 and 11 approximately, and preferably between 6.5 and 10 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in dyeing keratin fibers.

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of the mineral or organic acids with hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid. , sulfonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents, there may be mentioned, for example, ammonia, alkali carbons, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, 2-methyl-2-aminopropane and its derivatives, sodium hydroxides or of potassium and the compounds of formula (VIII) below: wherein W is a propylene moiety optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or an alkyl radical in Ci-C :; R_,, R, R_. and R. ', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C.-C4 or hydroxyalkyl in C-C4. Ready-to-use dyeing compositions and oxidizing compositions for permanent deformation or decolorization of the keratin fibers according to the invention may also include various adjuvants conventionally used in the compositions for dyeing, permanent deformation or discoloration. hair, such as anionic surfactants other than those of the invention, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants, mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or their mixtures, mineral thickeners organic, antioxidant agents, enzymes other than the 2-electron oxide reductases used according to the invention such as for example jo peroxidases, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film forming agents , conservative agents, agent It is opaque. Of course, the specialist will take special care in choosing this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties attributed intrinsically to the dyeing compositions according to the invention are not, at least substantially, altered by the envisaged attachment (s). The ready-to-use dyeing compositions and the oxidizing compositions used for permanent deformation or decolorization of the keratinous fibers according to the invention can be presented in various forms, such as liquids, creams, gels, optionally pressurized. , or under any suitable form to make a dye, a permanent deformation © a discoloration of the keratin fibers, and on all of the human hair. In the case of a ready-to-use dye composition, the oxidation dye (s) and the 2-electron oxide oxidase (s) are present within the same composition that must be free of gaseous oxygen, so as to avoid any premature oxidation of the oxygen. or oxidation dyes. Following will be given concrete examples that illustrate the invention. In the following or in the foregoing, unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight. The following examples illustrate the invention without presenting a limiting character.

Example 1 and 4: Dyeing compositions: The following ready-to-use dye compositions were prepared (grams in grams): Example 1: - Arthrobacter globiformis Uricase 1.5 g 20 International Units (U.I.) / mg, marketed by the company Sigma - Uric Acid 1.5 g - Ethanol 20.0 g - Hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name NATROSOL 250 HHR by the company AQUALON 1.0 g N-cocoylglutamate of triethanolamine in 30% aqueous solution sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT12 by AJIMOTO 15.0 g Paraphenylenediamine 0.324 g Resorcin 0.33 g - Monoethanolamine c.s.pH 9.5 - Distilled water c.s.p. 100 g Example 2: Arthrobacter globiformis Uricasa 1.5 g International Units (U.I.) / mg, marketed by 1? Sigma society - Uric acid 1.5 g - Ethanol 20.0 g - Hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name of NATROSOL250 HHR by the company AQUALON 1.0 g - Lauroyl sarcosinate sodium in 30% aqueous solution sold under the name ORAMIX L30 by SEPPIC 15.0 g - Paraphenylenediamine 0.324 g - Resorcin 0.33 g - Monoethanolamine is. pH 9.5 g - Demineralized water c.s.p. 100 g Example 3: - Uricasa of Arthrobacter globiformis of 1.5 g 20 International Units (U.I.) / mg, marketed by the company Sigma - Uric Acid 1.5 g - Ethanol 20.0 g - Cocoyl sodium isethionate powder sold under the name JORDAPOM Cl - POWDER by PPG 5.0 g - Hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name NATROSOL 250 HHR by the company AQUALON 1.0 g Example 4: - Uricase of Arthrobacter gl © bif © rmis of 1.5 g 20 International Units (U.I.) / mg, marketed by the company Sigma - Uric Acid 1.5 g - Ethanol 20.0 g - Lauryl ether carboxylic acid with 10 OE sold under the name AKYPO RLM by KAO - Hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name NATROSOL 250 HHR by the company AQUALON 1.0 g - Paraphenylenediamine 0.324 g - Resorcin 0.33 g - Monoethanolamine is. pH 9.5 g - Distilled water c.s.p. 100 g Each of the dye compositions ready to be used and described above was applied on natural gray hair with 90% gray hair for 30 minutes. The hair was then rinsed, washed with a common shampoo and dried. With each of the dyeing compositions were obtained strands of dyed hair of dark blond mat.

Example 5: Oxidizing gomp for permanency © bleaching - Uricase of Artheobacter globiformis 1.8 g 20 International Units (U.I.) / mg, marketed by the company Sigma - Uric Acid 1.65 g - Lauroyl glutamate onosodium sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LS 11 by AJIMOTO 5.0 g - Ethanol 20.0 g - 2-methyl-2-methyl-propanol-l c.s. pH 9.5 g - Demineralized water G.s.p. 100 g It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is the conventional one for the manufacture of the objects or products to which it refers.

Claims (29)

CLAIMS Having described the invention as above, the contents of the following claims are claimed as properties:

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of human keratin fibers and more specifically of human hair, characterized in that it comprises, on an appropriate support for keratin fibers: (a) at least one enzyme of 2-electron oxide-reductase type in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme; (b) at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of: (i) the acyl isethionates; (i i) a c i 11 au ra t; (iii) acyl sarcosinates; (iv) the Iguatamate aci; (v) the carboxylic acid ethers of wood and their sulfur; (vi) glucamides fats sulfates; (vii) the alkylgalactoside uronates; (viii) the anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside; (ix) their mixtures.

Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the 2-electron oxide reductase is chosen from uricas of animal, microbiological or biotechnological origin.

Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the 2-electron oxide-reductases represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the 2-electron oxide-reductases represent from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the donor (or substrate) for said oxidoreductase of 2 is chosen from uric acid and its salts.

Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the donor (s) represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the donor (s) represent from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the acyl isethionates and acyltaurates correspond to the following general structure: R-CH-CH2-S03"M + (I) where R designates a RiCOO group or a RiCO R ^ group with Ri which designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group at C0-C and R; designates hydrogen or an alkyl radical in C-C4 and M designates H, ammonium, Na or K or a residue of an organic amine.

9. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the acsi sarcosinates and the acylutants correspond to the following general structure: where R; and M have the same meanings indicated in claim 8; R;, designates CH3 and R4 designates hydrogen, while R3 designates hydrogen and R4 designates CH1CH2COO ~ M +.

Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ethers and their salts possess from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the anionic surfactants of the acid type © salts of carboxylic ethers pyoxyalkylene adres correspond to the following formula (III): wherein: R5 designates an alkyl or alkylaryl group and n is an integer or decimal number (average value) which may vary from 2 to 24 and preferably from 3 to 10, the alkyl radical having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms; designating aryl preferably phenyl, A designates H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine moiety.

Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the anionic derivatives of alkylpolyglucoside are chosen from: - sulfates, alkylpolyglycoside sulfonates or their mixtures; - the alkylpolyglucoside ethercarboxylates; - the alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates; - the alkyl polyglucoside isethionates; - the alkyl polyglucoside phosphates.

13. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the concentration in anionic surfactant varies from 0.1% to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and preferably between 0.5% and 15%.

14. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 13, ready to be used for oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers and in particular of human keratin fibers such as human hair, of the type also comprising, in a medium suitable for the keratin fibers, at least one oxidation base and, optionally, one or more couplers.

15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, double bases, ortho or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, as well as the addition salts of these compounds with an acid.

16. Composition according to claim 14 or 15, characterized in that the oxidation bases are present in concentrations ranging from 0.0005 to 12% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that the couplers are chosen among the metaphenylenediamines, the meta-aminophenols, the meta-diphenols, the heterocyclic couplers and the addition salts of these compounds with an acid.

18. Composition according to any of claims 14 to 17, characterized in that the couplers are present -in concentrations ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Composition according to any of claims 14 to 18, characterized in that the addition salts with an acid of the oxidation bases and of the couplers are chosen from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates and tartrates, lactates and the acetates.

20. Composition according to any of claims 14 to 19, characterized in that it also contains direct dyes.

21. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that the appropriate medium for the keratin fibers (or s © p © rte) is constituted by water or by a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent.

22. Composition according to claim 21, characterized in that the organic solvents can be present in proportions preferably ranging from 1 to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably ranging from 5 to 30. % in weigh.

23. Composition according to any of the rei indications 1 to 22, characterized in that the pH varies from 5 to 11 and preferably from 6.5 to 10.

Composition according to any of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it also contains at least one cosmetic adjuvant conventionally used in compositions for dyeing, permanent deformation or hair discoloration, chosen from the group consisting of anionic surfactants other than those defined in the preceding claims, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionics or their mixtures, ionic anionic polymers, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, enzymes other than 2-electron oxide-reductases, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, agents film formers, conservative agents, opacan agents tes.

25. Dyeing process of keratin fibers and in particular of human keratin fibers such as hair, characterized in that at least one ready-to-use dye composition is applied to said fibers, as defined in any of claims 14 to 24 , enough time to develop the desired coloration.

Method according to claim 25, characterized in that it comprises a preliminary step consisting in storing separately, on the one hand a composition (A) comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation base and optionally at least one coupler as defined in any of claims 14 to 19, and on the other hand a composition (B) containing, in an appropriate medium for the keratin fibers, at least one oxide-type enzyme -reductase of 2 electrons in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme, such as defined in any of the preceding claims; then proceed to its mixing at the time of use before applying this mixture on the keratin fibers, the Composition (A) or the Composition (B) containing the anionic surfactant as defined in the preceding claims.

27. Device with several compartments or < < kit > > dyeing, characterized in that a first compartment contains the composition (A) as defined in claim 26 and a second compartment contains the composition (B) as defined in claim 26.

28. Method of treatment of keratin fibers , in particular of the hair, in order to obtain a permanent deformation of the latter, in particular in the form of permanent hair, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: (i) a reducing composition is applied to the keratin fibers to be treated. , subjecting the keratin material to mechanical stress before, during or after said application, (ii) the keratin material is eventually rinsed, (iii) an oxidizing composition as co-defined in any of the compositions is applied to the possibly rinsed keratin material. claims 1 to 13, 21 to 24, (iv) the keratin material is eventually rinsed again.

29. Process for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, in order to obtain a discoloration of the latter comprising the application of an oxidizing composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 13, 21 to 24 which optionally contains an auxiliary oxidizing agent and a second step of rinsing the keratin fibers.