MXPA98006691A

MXPA98006691A - Spread composition that comprises silicone pirogen

Info

Publication number: MXPA98006691A
Application number: MXPA/A/1998/006691A
Authority: MX
Inventors: Oreal L
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1997-08-28
Filing date: 1998-08-18
Publication date: 1999-09-20

Abstract

The invention relates to a thickened composition containing pyrogenic silica and a polysaccharide alkyl ether formed of units comprising at least two different osidic rings each unit comprising at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain. The invention also relates to the use of a pyrogenic silica and polysaccharide alkyl ether as a thickening agent in a composition comprising an organic phase comprising at least one solvent medium of polyether alkyl ether.

Description

Thick Composition Comprising Pirogenated Silica DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to a thick composition containing pyrogenic silica associated with a new thickener, intended in particular for the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields. The invention also relates to a use of this composition for the treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair or mucous membranes such as the lips and the inside of the eyelids. In cosmetic and dermatological compositions, it is common to thicken non-aqueous phases to obtain the desired consistency. The thick compositions make it easier to take the product out of its packaging without significant loss, limit the diffusion of the product to the local treatment area, distribute the product regularly over the local treatment area or even use the product in quantities enough to obtain the desired cosmetic or dermatological effect. REP. 27961 This thickening is essential for compositions such as those for treatment, hygiene or make-up products, such as lipsticks that must be distributed evenly over the local surface to be treated, as well as for the hair compositions that must be extended and Distribute regularly along the keratin fibers and do not drip on the forehead, nape, face or in the eyes. To thicken the compositions, it is known to add fumed silica as a thickening agent (see application FR-A-1453089). When you want to prepare sufficiently thick compositions, it is necessary to add a significant amount of pyrogenic silica. This is mainly the case when it is desired to thicken a composition comprising a polar medium such as for example ethyl acetate, ethanol or oils of vegetable origin. However, the addition of a significant amount of this thickener alters the cosmetic properties of the composition: in fact the composition becomes less comfortable during application and in the course of time after application. This is mainly the case for a red lipstick where the red film is not comfortable to wear on the lips and causes a feeling of tightness.

In addition, the composition tends to resect the lips and to present an unsatisfactory coverage. It is also known to associate other thickening agent with fumed silica. For example, US-A-5071639 discloses a nail polish composition comprising hydrophilic or hydrophobic silica and a clay such as bentone. However, the clays have the drawback of rendering the composition opaque and matt and it is not possible to obtain transparent or translucent compositions of glossy appearance. The object of the present invention is to propose a transparent or translucent thick composition, containing pyrogenic silica, which has good cosmetic properties and does not have the aforementioned drawbacks. The Applicant Firm has discovered that a composition of this type could be obtained by associating the pyrogenic silica with a particular thickener. The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition comprising pyrogenic silica, characterized in that it also comprises at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether formed of units comprising at least two different osidic cycles, each unit comprising at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain, and an organic phase comprising at least one solvent medium of said alkyl ether. Thanks to the combination of the pyrogenic silica and the polysaccharide alkyl ether, the composition accng to the invention is transparent or translucent and has a high viscosity. In addition, the composition has good cosmetic properties: during application on keratin materials, the composition is not sticky; It is easy to apply and offers a pleasant sensation during and after its application, without leaving feeling of tightness. In particular, it is possible to obtain a soft red lipstick in the application and that leaves on the lips a homogenous and covering film, comfortable to wear, which does not dry the lips. In addition, it has a brighter appearance than that of the prior art containing silica. Although the invention is particularly well adapted to the cosmetic field, it is applied in any field that needs to obtain thick compositions, including solid compositions and mainly in the fields of agri-food, veterinary, dermatological, pharmaceutical, wood (stick of pigments and wax for the Furniture restoration) . In the thickener associated with pyrogenic silica, "hydrocarbon alkyl chain" means a straight or branched chain, comprising from 1 to 24, preferably from 1 to 10, better from 1 to 6 and more especially from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. carbon. In particular, the alkyl chain is chosen from the saturated chains and mainly methyl, ethyl, ethenyl, n-propyl, propenyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl. These alkyl ethers can be manufactured as described in EP-A-281 360, EP-A-708114, EP-A-281360. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether has a weight average molecular weight greater than 100 000, and preferably greater than 200 000. This molecular weight can be up to 1 million. This alkyl ether can comprise from one to six and better from two to four hydroxyl groups per unit, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain. Osidic cycles are chosen mainly from mannose, galactose, glucose, furanose, rhamnose, arabinose.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkyl ether of a gum and more particularly of a globally non-ionic gum, that is to say comprising little or no ionic group. Suitable gums include, for example, guar gum whose unit comprises a galactose and a mannose, locust bean gum whose unit comprises a galactose and a mannose, karaya gum which is a complex mixture of rhamnose, galactose and acid. galacturónico, the gum that is a complex mixture of arabinose, galactose and galacturonic acid. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether is a derivative of guar gum. Thus, the alkyl ether advantageously is an alkylated chain galactomannan of Ci to C6 alkyl and better of Ci to C3 and more particularly guarethylated guar having a degree of substitution of 2 to 3 and mainly of about 2.5 to 2.8. , as described in documents RD 95378007 (October 1995) and EP-A-708114.

This rubber is in particular those sold by the company ® Aqualon under the names N-HANCE-AG 200 and N-HANCE AG ® The alkyl ether concentration depends on the galenic form, the consistency sought for the composition. In particular, the weight ratio of the amount of solvent and / or oil to the amount of thickener is chosen, for example, in the range from 5 to 1000. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, an amount of alkyl ether of polysaccharide which it ranges from 0.1 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the organic phase (solvent and / or oil) of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight. The pyrogenic silica capable of being used in the composition according to the invention may be in the form of hydrophilic pyrogenated silica or pyrogenic hydrophobic silica. Pyrogenic silicas may be obtained by hydrolysis at high temperature of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrous flame, producing a silica finely divided. This process makes it possible mainly to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a significant number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophobic silicas are marketed, for example, under the names ® ® ® "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200" AEROSIL 255"," AEROSI ® ® 300"," AEROSIL 380"by the company Degussa," CAB-O- ® ® ® SIL HS-5"," CAB-O-SIL EH-5"," CAB-O-SIL LM-130", ® ®" CAB-O-SIL MS-55"," CAB-O-SIL M-5"for society Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups.

Mainly silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained mainly by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of exametildisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "silica sililato" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are marketed by ® example under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company ® Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained mainly by treating pyrogenated silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldiclorsilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl sililate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). The references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS- ® 720" by the company Cabot are marketed for example under ® ® . According to the invention, hydrophobic silicas are preferably used. The pyrogenated silica mainly has a particle size which can be nanometric or micrometric, for example ranging from approximately to 200 nm. The composition according to the invention may comprise pyrogenated silica in an amount ranging from O, 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the organic phase of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and better than 1% to 10% by weight. According to the invention, the solvent medium of the polysaccharide alkyl ether present in the composition can be an organic solvent or an oil. In other words, polysaccharide alkyl ether is a thickener of organic solvents and oils. By oils, all liquid fat is understood at room temperature. The organic solvent may be, for example, chosen from: liquid ketones at room temperature such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone; alcohols liquid at room temperature such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol, the exanol cycle; the liquid glycols at room temperature such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol; the propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, dipropylene glycol mono n-butyl ether; short chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate; liquid ethers at room temperature such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or diclordiethylether; liquid alkanes at room temperature such as decane, heptane, dodecane cyclohexane; aromatic cyclic compounds liquid at room temperature such as toluene and xylene; liquid aldehydes at room temperature such as benzaldehyde, acetaldehyde; These solvents are more particularly suitable for the makeup or removal of the nails: the composition then constitutes a nail polish, a nail treatment product or a nail polish solvent. Among the oils which can be used as the solvent medium of the polysaccharide alkyl ether according to the invention, there may be mentioned, for example: oils of vegetable origin such as liquid triglycerides, for example sunflower, corn, soya, jojoba, pumpkin oils, of pips of grapes, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by STEARINERIES DUBOIS or sold under the names MIGLYOL 810, 812, and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. - oils of animal origin such as lanolin, oils of mineral origin, synthetic oils such as fatty alcohols such as octyl-2-dodecanol; the esters and in particular the esters of fatty acids, and especially the esters having a total number of carbon atoms chosen between 12 and 80 and better between 16 and 50; phenylated silicones, and mainly phenyl tri eticones, diphenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes. The technician knows, by his knowledge, to determine by simple routine tests the oils that solubilize the alkyl ether of polysaccharide. Complementary oils, non-solvents of the polysaccharide alkyl ether, can also be added to the composition. As a complementary oil, mention may be made in particular of liquid silicone resins and gums at room temperature, partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils, perfluorinated oils, silicone oils free of aromatic groups such as linear or branched polysiloxanes such as polydimethyl polysiloxanes, polyethylmethyl polysiloxanes. , polyoalkylmethylsiloxanes and the cyclic polysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or mixtures thereof; the fluorinated silicone oils; the polysiloxanes functionalized by one or more hydroxyl functions and / or one or more polyether groups such as the dimethicones copolyols; linear or branched hydrocarbons, such as petroleum jelly, isohexadecane, isododecane. The alkyl ether solvents of polysaccharide (organic solvent or oil) can be present in a proportion of 59 to 99.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the organic phase of the composition, and better than 72% to 98.5% . The complementary oils may be added to the composition in an amount ranging from 0% to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the organic phase, and better than 0% to 50% by weight. It is also possible to incorporate an aqueous phase into the composition according to the invention, in particular in an amount ranging from 0% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better from 3 to 85%. The composition according to the invention can also comprise all the ingredients conventionally used in the aforementioned fields and more especially in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. These ingredients are selected in particular from preservatives, vitamins, aqueous or fatty phase thickeners different from that of the invention, perfumes, surfactants, antioxidants, fillers, pigments, waxes, cosmetic or dermatological active agents. liposoluble or water-soluble, and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention can also contain lipid vesicles of the ionic and / or nonionic type. The amounts of these different ingredients are those conventionally used in the relevant fields and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. The nature of these ingredients and their proportion must be compatible with obtaining thick stable compositions according to the invention. The composition of the invention can be presented under all galenic forms normally used for a topical or oral application, and mainly in the form of a gel, an emulsion, a dispersion, a multiphase system and mainly two-phase. This composition can have the appearance of a milk, a cream, a paste, a molten or molded solid and mainly a stick. The composition according to the invention can be used advantageously for the treatment, makeup (nail polish, eye liner, mask, foundation, anti-dark circles, eyelid or cheek shadow, lipstick), or the treatment of keratin materials and / or mucous membranes according to the nature of active agents used.

The invention also relates to the use of a pyrogenic silica and a polysaccharide alkyl ether such as those defined above as a thickening agent of a composition comprising an organic phase comprising at least one solvent medium of said alkyl ether. The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment, make-up or make-up removal of keratin and / or mucous materials consisting of applying a composition on the keratin and / or mucous materials as described above. The following examples are given by way of illustration and without limitation.

Example 1 A red lip was prepared according to the invention and a comparative lipstick comprising only pyrogenic silica as a thickener.

The compositions were the following, the amounts being expressed in grams: ® (1) sold under the name AEROSIL K972 by Degussa ® (2) sold under the name N-HANCE AG 200 by Aqualon The ethylguar was added to the oil mixture heated to 90-95 ° C to form the gel, then the pyrogenated silica was dispersed in the gel and the pigments were added. The mixture was triturated by three passes in the three-roll crusher. The polyethylene wax was then incorporated and the mixture was heated to 100-105 C. The mixture was poured into a mold at the temperature of 98-100 ° C, then allowed to cool. After demolding, the cosmetic properties of the two products were evaluated. It was found that the lipstick according to the invention left on the lips a more opaque film, more homogeneous, more comfortable to wear, less dusty than that obtained with the comparative product. In addition, the red according to the invention dries the lips less.

Example 2: A pasty lipstick having the following composition was prepared: hydrophobic pyrogenated silica (1) 7.64 g Ethylene chain guar gum of substitution degree of approximately 2.5 (2) 0.59 g - Phenyltrimethicone sold under the ® designation DC 556 by the company Dow Corning 89.77 g Pigments 2 g ® (1) sold under the name AEROSIL R972 by Degussa ® (2) sold under the name N-HANCE AG 200 by Aqualon The mixture of oil, silica and guarethylated was prepared according to the procedure given in Example 1. The pigments were then added, then the mixture was triturated by three passes in the three-roll crusher. A paste was obtained that is easily applied on the lips and that leaves a film comfortable to wear without drying the lips.

Example 3: A paste-like red lip having the following composition was prepared according to the operating mode of Example 2: hydrophobic pyrogenated silica (1) 7.52 g Ethylene chain guar gum of substitution degree of approximately 2.5 (2) 0.94 g Glyceryl Triheptanoate 85.54 g Nacreous 6 g ® (1) sold under the name AEROSIL R972 by Degussa ® (2) sold under the name N-HANCE AG 200 by Aqualon A paste was obtained that is applied comfortably on the lips, has a good covering power and the deposited film does not provide a feeling of tightness.

Example 4: A paste-like lipstick having the following composition was prepared according to the operating mode of Example 2: Hydrophobic pyrogenated silica (1) 7.52 g Ethylene chain guar gum of substitution degree of approximately 2.5 (2) 0.94 g Sesame oil 85.54 g Nacreous 6 g ® (1) sold under the name AEROSIL R972 by Degussa ® (2) sold under the name N-HANCE AG 200 by Aqualon A paste was obtained that is easily applied on the lips and leaves on them a homogeneous film, comfortable to wear.

Example 5: Hydrophobic pyrogenated silica (3) 10 g Ethyl chain guar gum of substitution degree of approximately 2.5 (2) 2 g Octil-2 dodecanol 88 g ® (3) sold under the name AEROSIL R974 by Degussa A clear gel was obtained having a viscosity of 7.3 Pa.S (measured in the Contraves TBS, a ° C, equipped with a mobile No. 4 that rotates at the frequency of 50 Hz). This gel can serve as the basis for any cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Example 6: Hydrophobic pyrogenated silica (3) 10 g Guar etilado of degree of substitution of approximately 2.5 (2) 2 g Castor oil 88 g ® (3) sold under the name AEROSIL R974 by Degussa A clear gel was obtained having a viscosity of 57.5 Pa.S (measured in the Contraves TBS, at 25 ° C, equipped with a mobile No. 5 that rotates at the frequency of 50 Hz). This gel can serve as the basis for any cosmetic or dermatological composition.

It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is the conventional one for the manufacture of the objects or products to which it refers.

Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following:

Claims

1. Composition comprising pyrogenic silica, characterized in that it also comprises at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether formed from units comprising at least two different osidic rings, each unit comprising at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain, and organic phase comprising at least one solvent medium of said alkyl ether.

Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that two to four hydroxyl groups per unit are replaced by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain comprises from 1 to 24 carbon atoms.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain comprises from 2 to 10 carbon atoms.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl chain is selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl radicals.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the osidic cycles are chosen from the group consisting of mannose, galactose, glucose, furanose, rhamnose, arabinose.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkyl ether of a gum chosen from guar gum, locust bean gum, karaya gum, gum trapping and their mixtures .

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl ether is an alkylated chain galactomannan of Ci to C6 alkyl and better of Ci to C3.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is ethyl chain guar gum with a degree of substitution of 2 to 3.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether has a weight average molecular weight greater than 200 000.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl ether of polysaccharide is present in an amount such that the ratio (by weight) of the amount of solvent and / or oil to the amount of alkyl ether of polysaccharide is chosen in the range from 5 to 1000.

12. Composition according to any one of of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 16% of the total weight of the organic phase and better than 0.5 to 8% of the total weight of the organic phase of the composition.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pyrogenated silica is chosen from hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pyrogenated silica is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the organic phase of the composition.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solvent medium of said alkyl ether is an organic solvent and / or an oil.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one non-solvent complementary oil of polysaccharide alkyl ether.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one ingredient chosen from the group consisting of preservatives, vitamins, perfumes, surfactants, antioxidants, fillers, pigments, waxes, and their mixtures.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is present in the form of a gel, an emulsion, a dispersion, a multiphase system.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is present in the form of a lipstick.

20. Use of a pyrogenated silica associated with a polysaccharide alkyl ether formed of units comprising at least two different osidic rings, each unit comprising at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain as the thickening agent of a composition comprising an organic phase which comprises at least one solvent medium of said alkyl ether.

21. Use according to claim 20, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkyl ether of a gum selected from guar gum, locust bean gum, karaya gum, gum adragant and mixtures thereof.

22. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin and / or mucosal materials, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 is applied to the keratin and / or mucosal materials. makeup of keratin and / or mucosal materials, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 is applied to the keratin and / or mucosal materials.