MXPA97008634A - Use of nanoemulsions based on lympid non-ionic fluid antifiliates for queratini fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use for keratin fibers of an oil-in-water emulsion of which the oil globules have an average size of less than 150 nm, including an amphiphilic lipid phase containing at least one liquid non-ionic lipid at a temperature environment below 45øC. This emulsion may contain significant amounts of oil without providing the generally known drawbacks of oils such as a fatty touch and loading

Description

USE OF NANOEMULSIONS BASED ON FLUID NON-IONIC NON-IONIC LIPIDS FOR THE QUATERNICAL FIBERS DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the use - for keratin fibers such as the hair or eyelashes of an oil-in-water emulsion whose oil globules have an average size of less than 150 nm, com- by activating an amphiphilic lipid phase containing at least one liquid non-ionic amphiphilic lipid at an ambient temperature of less than 45 ° C. Oil-in-water emulsions are well known in the field of hair compositions. However, the presence of significant concentrations of vegetable, animal or mineral oils in compositions makes their formulation difficult. In fact, the compositions are generally unstable when stored and the cosmetic properties are insufficient. In particular, the application of such compositions on the hair produces a fatty touch and a difficulty in rinsing. In addition, dry hair has no volume and has a charged feel. Transparent microemulsions are known in the state of the art. Microemulsions are not properly speaking emulsions; they are transparent solutions of micelles, that is to say that the oil present in them is solubilized by the joint presence of a strong proportion REF: 25960 of te.nsioastives and co-surfactants. The extremely small size of the particles, the cause of their transparency, comes from this "solubilization". The drawbacks of these microeusions are justified by their strong proportion of surfactants that lead to intolerances and produce a touch desa gradable, therefore unnatural. Thus, EP-A-334,777 discloses microemulsions containing an oil, and a mixture of surfactant and active co-surfactant, in a weight ratio oil / active-surfactant mixture and co-surfactant of less than 0.5. , ie at least twice as many surfactants as oil nanoparticles are known which comprise an amphiphilic lipid phase comprising at least one phospholipid - (anionic amphiphilic lipid) and a cationic lipid. However, the compositions described in this document are unstable and do not provide good cosmetic properties, in particular they lead to a fatty and charged feel. They are also known from the French application - 2730932 emulsions of acetyl in-water with oil globules whose average size is less than 150 nm and including - an amphiphilic lipid phase comprising at least one liquid non-ionic amphiphilic lipopide to one ambient temperature below 45 ° C, This document does not describe or suggest any capillary use. The applicant has discovered, unexpectedly, that the nanoepiulsions described in the application - French 2730932 do not have the disadvantages of emulsions and the misroemulsions in the compositions used for the treatment of the hair. The. They may contain significant amounts of oil while maintaining good cosmetic properties such as the absence of fatty and charged feel. The present invention therefore has as its object the use for keratin fibers such as oil-emulsions flanges or flanges. -in-water with oil globules whose average size is less than 150 nm and which comprise an amphiphilic lipid phase which includes at least one liquid non-ionic amphiphilic lipid at an ambient temperature of less than 45 ° C and whose weight ratio from. the amount of oil on the amount of the amphiphilic lipid phase is between 2 and 10. By use for keratin fibers such as the heads, eyelashes or eyebrows, it is understood according to the present invention the application of the emulsion on the hair or the eyelashes or the eyebrows for their larvae and / or their treatment and / or their maintenance, the non-ionic amphiphilic lipids of the invention; they are preferably chosen from silicone surfactants and esters of at least one polyol selected from the group formed. by polyethylene glycol, which includes 1 to 60 units of ethylene oxide, the sorbent, the glycerol that includes 2 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerols that include from 2 to 15 units of glycerol. and at least one fatty acid including at least one Cg-C22f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cg-C22f alkyl chain, may optionally use the mixtures of the compounds indicated above. The silicone surfactants which can be used according to the invention are solid compounds which include at least one oxylethylene chain -OCH-CH- and / or pyrrolled oxide OCH-CHjCHp-, as silicone surfactants which can be used according to the present invention. -tion, there may be mentioned those described in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744, Preferably, the silicone surfactant used according to the present invention is a compound of formula (I). : (I) in which: R-, R ", 3, independently of each other, re < - present an alkyl radical of Cl. -Cco or a radical - (CH) x (0CH2CÍI2) and - (OCH2CH2CH2lz-0P_4, not being at least one -radical R,, R "or R3 an alkyl radical, R being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; A is a whole number that ranges between 0 and 200? B is an integer that ranges from 0 to 50, with the proviso that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time-x is an integer that ranges from 1 to 6; integer that ranges between i and 30, z is an integer that ranges between 0 and 5. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I) the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is a number whole that oscillates between 4 and 30, Mention may be made, as silicone surfactants of formula (I), of compounds of formula (II) (CH 3) 3 SiO - [(CH 3) 2 SiO] A - (CH 3 SiO) B - (II) (CH 2) 2 - (OCH 2 CH 2) y - OH wherein A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105; B is an integer ranging from 2 to e and is an integer ranging from 10 to 20. Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), compounds of formula (III) may also be mentioned by way of example. : HO - (OCH2CH2) and- (CH2) 3 - [(CH3) 2SiO] A. - (CH2) 3 - (OCH2CH2) and - OH (III) in which ^ e y are integers ranging between IO 20. Those sold by the Dow Corning Company under the designations DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 can be used as compounds of the invention. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) wherein A is respectively 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 e and is 12. The compound Q4- < 36ß7 is a compound of formula - (lili where A is 15 and y is 13) Among the non-ionic amphiphilic lipids, mention may be made, by way of example, of the - polyethylene glycol isostearate of molecular weight 400, - the isostearate of d glyceryl, - the polyglycerol laurate comprising 10 units of glycerol, - sorbitan oleate, - sorbitan isostearate, * - butylglucoside cocoate or o-butilyl glucoside caprate. The oil contained in the emulsion according to the invention on the amount of the amphiphilic lipid phase varies, preferably from 2 to 10 and more preferably from 3 to 6, A particular form of emulsion according to the invention is characterized by the fact that the amphiphilic lipid phase further comprises one or more ionic amphiphilic lipids. The ionic amphiphilic lipids used in the novel nodules of the invention are chosen, preferably from among the po formed by anionic lipids, amphoteric lípi dos and mixtures. The anionic amphiphilic lipids are more particularly chosen from the group consisting of: - the alkaline salts »of dicetiir and dimyristylphosphate ^ - the alke salts of cholesterol sulphate; - the alke salts of the cholesterol phosphate; - lipoamino acids such as acylgluta mono and disodium; - the sodium salts of the phosphatidic acid; - the phospholpids; - alkylsulfonisos derivatives such as those of formula; R-CH-CO-0- (CH2-CH2-CO) -CH3 I SO, M wherein R represents alkyl radicals of in particular the radicals 0, g, 33 and C, gH37, taken in mixture or separately and M is an alkmetal such as sodium The amphiphilic ionic lipids are present in the nanoemulsions of the invention, preferably at concentrations ranging from 1 to 60% in weight and more particularly in the range of 10 to 50% in weight, based on the weight total amphiphilic lipid phase. The weight ratio of the amount of oil contained in the emulsion according to the invention to the amount of the amphiphilic lipid phase is comprised, preferably between 3 and, The nanoemulsions according to the invention comprise an amount of oil which preferably ranges from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. The oils that can be used in the experiments of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of; < - animal or vegetable oils, particularly those formed by fatty acid esters and polyols, in particular liquid triglycerides, for example, * sunflower, avocado, corn, soya, ca labaza oils, of grape, sesame, hazelnut seeds, fish oils "glycerol tricaprosaprilat, or vegetable or animal oils of formula RgC00R, in which Rg represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid comprising to 29 carbon atoms and R-0 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, Purcellin oil; - natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, oils of eucalyptus, lavender, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, walnut nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geranol, juniper and bergamot; - hydrocarbons, such as hexadecane and paraffin oil? halogenated carbides, particularly fluorocarbons, such as fluoramines, for example, perfluorotributylamine "fluorinated hydrocarbons, for example perfluorodecahydronaphthalene, fluororesters and fluoroethers; - esters of mineral acid and an alcohol; - lo - - ethers and polyethers; silicones in admixture with at least one of the oils defined above, for example decamethylcyclopenta siloxane or dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, The emulsions according to the present invention may contain additives to improve the transparency of the formulation, in concentrations comprised between 1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion and preferably between 5 and 20% by weight. These additives are preferably chosen from the group consisting of; - the lower alcohols of C_ -CQ such as ethanol; - the glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols comprising 4 to 16 ethylene oxide units and preferably 8 to 12, In addition, the use of alcohols such as those defined above at concentrations greater than or equal to 5% by weight and preferably greater than 15%, make it possible to obtain emulsions without a preservative; The emulsions of the invention may contain • water-soluble or liposoluble active agents, with a cosmetic or dermatological activity, The liposoluble fatty acids are found in the oily globules of the emulsion, while the hydrosoluble active agents are present in the emulsions. the aqueous phase of the emulsion. Mention may be made, by way of examples of the active agent, of the -vitamins such as vitamin E and its derivatives, provitamins such as panthenol, humectants, sunscreens, surfactants, preserving agents, sequestrants, softeners, perfumes, colorants, viscosity modifying agents, modified foam agents, foam stabilizers, nasacing agents, agents hydratants, antipelicular agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, proteins, silicones, ceramides, pseudoce-ramides, fatty acids of linear or branched chains of C, gC. such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, thickeners, plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes and perfumes. Among the thickeners which can be used, mention may be made of cellulose derivatives such as hydroxymethylpro-p-cellulose, fatty alcohols such as stearyl, cetyl alcohol, behenic, algae derivatives such as satiagu, natural gums such as the adragante and synthetic polymers such as mixtures of polycarboxyvinyl acids marketed under the CARBOPOL name by GOODRICH and the mixture of commercially available Na / acrylamide acrylate copolymers under the name HOSTACERIN PN 73 by the HOECKS Company.

The average size of os} oil globules is generally comprised between 3? and 15 n, preferably between 40 and 100 nm and even more particularly between 50 and 80 nm. The emulsions according to the invention are colorless and optionally slightly bluish and have a transparency determined by the transmittance coefficient measured with a wavelength of 600 nm, which preferably ranges from 1 to 90% and more particularly from 20 to 80%. The nanoemulsions of the invention can be obtained by a process characterized in that the aqueous phase and the phase are mixed. oily, under vigorous stirring, at an ambient temperature of less than 45 ° C, then a high-pressure homogenization is carried out at an elevated pressure. 8 7 to 10 Pa and preferably of 12.10 Pa. A -procedure of this type allows to perform, at room temperature, nanoemulsions compatible with thermosensitive active compounds. The compositions according to the invention can be used for the washing, the maintenance and the treatment of the keratimic fibers such as the hair and the eyelashes and more particularly the hair. The compositions of the invention can be more particularly presented in the form of shampoos, for after-shampoos to rinse or not, for compositions for permanent, straightening, coloring or discoloration, or - also in the form of compositions to be applied before or after a coloring, a discoloration, a permanent The compositions may also be marking lotions, lotions for brush marking, Clax fixation compositions and styling such as, for example, gels, or a straightening or between the two stages of a permanent or a straightening. , or foams. The lotions can be packaged in various forms, particularly in vaporizers, sprays or aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized or foamed form. Such forms of conditioning are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for the fixation or treatment of the hair When the composition according to the invention is buffered in the form of an aerosol with In order to obtain a lac or an aerosol foam, it comprises at least one propellant agent that can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, enanthane, chlorinated hydrocarbons. and / or - - Inorados and their mixtures, It is also possible to use -as a propellant agent- the carbon dioxide gas, the nitrogen oxide, the dimethyl ether, the nitrogen or the compressed air, the compositions used according to the invention may also be used. makeup compositions or treatment of the eyelashes or eyebrows such as masks. Another object of the invention consists in a composition for the keratin fibers and in particular a capillary composition, characterized in that it is constituted or that it comprises an emulsion as defined above. By capillary composition, it is understood according to the invention that a composition is intended to be applied to the hair for washing and / or its treatment and / or maintenance. Finally, the invention also refers to a method which is not Therapeutic treatment of keratin fibers such as hair, characterized in that an emulsion as defined above or a composition comprising said emulsion is applied to the keratin fibers. The following examples will allow a better understanding of the invention, without, however, presenting a limiting character, EJB and FPLOS. • For example 1, the following operative mode was put into practice; in a first phase A, amphiphilic lipids were homogenized with the oils and the active agents and lipophilic adjuvants at a temperature of 45 ° C; - in a second phase B, the active agents and hydrophilic adjuvants were dissolved at a temperature of 20 to 30 ° C; 10 - then, the phases A and B were mixed with the aid of a turbine homogenizer and then homogenized with the aid of a high pressure homogenizer of the type - Soavi-Niro at a pressure of 1500 bar, at 7 ° C. passed, keeping the product temperature below 35 ° C.

T - * EXAMPLE 1: Nanoemulsion of avocado oil First phase: - PEG-400 isostearate, sold by the company UNICHE A 4.5% - Disodium salt of N-stearoyl L-glutamic acid 20 marketed under the name Acylglutamate HS21 by the company AJIN0M0T0 (ionic amphiphilic lípids) O, 5% - • < Avocado oil 20% - Absolute non-denatured ethanol 15% 25 Second fas: - Demineralized water 54.7% - Glycerin 5% An emulsion is obtained whose size of the oil globules is approximately 63 nm. EXAMPLE 2; Comparative emulsion An emulsion was prepared by a conventional mode of operation with the same ingredients as in the nanoemulsification of example 1. 5 g of emulsion or nanoemulsion were applied on 2.5 g wicks, allowed to stand 10 mn and then a rinse with tap water, the wicks were allowed to dry for 30 minutes under a drying helmet. Next, a staff of 10 experts was asked to judge the feel and appearance of the hair. The 10 experts unanimously preferred the wick treated with the nanoemulsion. Touch is not fatty and the effect is natural. This effect is all the more surprising the more important is the amount of oil deposited on the flowers when the nanoemulsion is used. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention, having described the invention as above, it is claimed as property what is contained in the following:

Claims (1)

1. R E I V I N D I C A C I O N S 1, - Use for the keratin fibers of an oil-in-water emulsion whose oil globules have an average size of less than 150 nm and which comprises an amphiphilic lipid phase, which includes at least one liquid non-ionic amphiphilic lipid at one ambient temperature below 45 QC and because the weight ratio of the amount of oil on the amount of an-fifila lipid phase is between 2 and 1, 2, - Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the nonionic amphiphilic lipid is chosen among the silicone surfactants and the. esters of at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol comprising from 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol including from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, • polyglycerols including 2 to 15 units of gli cerol and of at least one fatty acid including at least one C8-C2_ alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and mixtures thereof, 3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the silylowed surfactant agent is a compound of formula (1); 1,8 - in which; IR, R2, R3, independently of one another, represent an alkyl radical of C, -Cβ or a radical - (CH ~) (0CH2CH2) and -C0CH2CH "2CH2_) z-OR4", wherein at least one radical R,, 2 or R3 is not an alkyl radical, where R1 is a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; A is an integer that ranges from 0 to 200. B. is an integer that ranges from 0 to 50, with the condition that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time, x is a whole number which ranges from 1 to 6, and is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5, 4, - Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the silicone surfactant is a composed of formula CU) Í (CH3) 3SiO - [(CH3) 2SO] A - (CH3SiO) 8 -Si (CH3) 3 (CH2) 2- (OCH2CH2) y-OH in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20, 5 - Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the silicone surfactant is a compound of formula (III) s HO - (OCH2CH2) and- (CH2) 3 - [(CH3) 2SiO] A. - (CH2) 3 - (OCH2CH2) and - OH (III) in which e and are integers ranging from -10 to 20, 6, - Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by the fact that the weight ratio of the amount of oil on the amount of amphiphilic lipid phase is comprised between 3 and 6, 7, - Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the amphiphilic lipid fa contains at least one lipid -anthiopic ion, 8, - Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ionic amphiphilic lipid is chosen from the group formed by the anionic lipids, the amphibole hyps and their mixtures, 9 - Use according to one of claims 7 to 8, characterized in that the ionic amphiphilic acid is present in concentrations ranging from 1 to 60% by weight with respect to the total weight of the amphiphilic lipid phase, 10, - Use according to any one of the reivi nications 1 to 9, characterized in that the same 5 ma comprises an oil content ranging between 5 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 11. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the -? T oil is chosen from the group consisting of: 10 - animal or vegetable oils, particularly formed by esters of fatty acids and of polyols or vegetable or animal oils of formula RgC00R-n in which Rg represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R-_ represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; P - natural or synthetic essential oils; - hydrocarbons; - halogenated carbides? 20 - the esters of mineral acid and alcohol; - the ethers and polyethers; - the silisones in admixture with at least one of the oils defined above, 12, - Use according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains a hydrosoluble cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical active agent. or liposoluble, 13, - use according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that - the oil globules have an average size ranging between 30 and 150 nm, 14, Composition for the fibers keratin, characterized in that it is constituted or because it comprises an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 11, 15, - Method of non-therapeutic treatment of keratinous fibers, characterized in that it is applied to the keratin fibers an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 13,