MXPA97003067A - Neck with a refuge base fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a reinforcing base fabric (1) for fabrics, fabrics, clothing, which consists of a fabric with a weft stitch (2) that includes an insertion of reinforcement and stabilization yarns (3) that go in the direction of the weft between the rows, the reinforcement and stabilization yarns being flat and without stress gathers

Description

NECK WITH A REINFORCEMENT BASE FABRIC The invention relates to a reinforcement base fabric for fabrics, cloth, clothing; the application of such a reinforcement base fabric to the collar of a shirt and, finally, to a method for making such a collar. The shirt collars that include an interlining are already known. See documents FR-A-2 570 577 and FR-A-2 609 873, for example. Normally, the interlinings or reinforcement pieces for shirt collars are made of woven fabric, of polyester for example, or of non-woven fabric. However, existing collar collars have a disadvantage, since the dimensional stability of the collar can not be perfectly ensured over time. In addition, when the shirt, and therefore the neck, are repeatedly washed, the stability provided by the neck reinforcement backing deteriorates, causing a change in the size of the neck, which is especially uncomfortable. This decrease in the size of the neck can reach 1.5 cm and even 2.5 cm, if not more. In this technique, reinforcement parts for localized fabric stiffness are also known (see FR-A-2 531 616), hot-melt interlinings (see FR-A-2 462 456) and, finally, hot-melt interlining in the form of fabrics with raster point (see FR-A-2 710 078). From FR-A-680 742 a sleeve collar is known which includes two strips of fabric with different stretch capacity in the interior. The fundamental problem of the invention is to ensure the dimensional stability of a shirt collar taking into consideration the normal preservation of the garment, including repeated washing and ironing. For this purpose, the invention implements a reinforcing base fabric consisting of fabrics with a weft point including the insertion of reinforcement and stabilization yarns that go in the direction of the weft between the rows of points. According to other characteristics, the reinforcement and stabilization yarns are flat and do not wrinkle due to tension. Such a reinforcement base fabric may also include an inserted non-woven fabric flap. The reinforcing base fabric may also contain a hot-melt adhesive material intended to ensure its subsequent bonding to the fabric. The reinforcement and stabilization yarns consist of synthetic fibers or filaments. Its density and number of threads are determined according to the desired weight and / or thickness and volume (thickness). According to another aspect, the invention relates to the application of such a reinforcement base fabric to a collar, in particular and especially improving its dimensional stability in the longest direction / that is, in the dimension corresponding to the neck. According to another aspect, the invention relates to a shirt collar that includes a reinforcement base fabric, as previously described, attached thereto. The reinforcement base fabric itself can act as an interlining, or it can reinforce an interlining attached to the neck piece (s).

This reinforcing base fabric includes a coating of hot-melt adhesive material to ensure its attachment to the neck piece (s) or to the interlining. Such an interlining is made of cotton or an equivalent. The reinforcement and stabilization yarns of the reinforcement base fabric are placed in the longest direction of the neck, ie the size of the neck. In this case, the weft of the reinforcement base fabric goes in the direction of the dimension corresponding to the neck. A neck as described above may include two pieces of fabric, one upper and one lower, respectively, joined together, and between which the reinforcing base fabric is inserted. According to the last aspect of the invention, a method for making a neck as described above is proposed, which includes a step that consists of joining a reinforcement base fabric, such as the one described above, with the piece (s). ) of the neck fabric. According to the alternate embodiments considered, the reinforcement base fabric is attached to the fabric piece (s) of the neck, or only to an interlining. The other features and advantages of the invention will be better understood when reading the following description, which includes references to the attached drawings, in which: Figure 1 is a schematic front view of a reinforcement base fabric according to the invention; Figures 2 and 3 are two schematic front views, in a horizontal position, of the collar of a shirt, of the shirt size, or of an equivalent piece, including a reinforcement base fabric according to the invention; Figure 4 is a partial sectional view along line IV-IV of Figure 2.

The reinforcement base fabric 1 according to the invention consists of a fabric with a weft point 2 that includes reinforcement and stability yarns 3 that go in the direction of the weft, between the rows of stitches of the knitted fabric 2. fabrics with a plot point are already known by themselves and, therefore, will not be described in greater detail in this document. The reinforcement and stability yarns 3 are arranged in each space between two rows of adjacent points. The reinforcement and stability threads 3 are arranged in a normal manner. To be able to fulfill its function of reinforcement and, especially of stability, the threads 3 are arranged in a flat and even perfectly flat manner and are free from stress puckering. This characteristic is obtained due to the fact that the threads 3 do not form part of the real points and are not formed by the crossing of the threads of the warp and of the weft of the knitted fabric 2. In order to improve the stability properties, the 3 threads themselves are stabilized by heat. This property is preferably obtained without adding synthetic or chemical stabilizing resins. The threads 3 consist of synthetic fibers or filaments, for example. Its density and number of threads are determined according to the desired weight and / or thickness and volume (thickness). The dimensional stability of the threads 3 in the longitudinal direction results in the stability of the base fabric 1 in the direction of the weft. This dimensional stability makes it possible to improve the dimensional stability of a collar 4.

According to another possible embodiment, the base fabric 1 includes an adhesive or hot melt material 5 intended to ensure that the subsequent bonding of the base fabric 1 with the fabric or piece 4, or possibly with an additional base fabric as an interlining. According to the applications in which it will be used, the adhesive or hot-melt material 5 is only arranged on one side of the base cloth 1, or on both of its sides. The adhesive or hot melt material 5 is arranged in a continuous layer or in points. The methods for disposing an adhesive or hot melt material on a textile substrate are known per se and, therefore, will not be described later in this document. According to another possible embodiment, the base fabric 1 also includes an inserted non-woven fabric flap. Such non-woven fabric flap makes it possible to give a certain volume to the fabric or piece 4. A base fabric 1, as described above, is especially intended for a collar 4, so as to improve the stability over time. dimensional of this garment, after repeated washing and ironing.

The piece 4 in question is a shirt collar or any similar piece. The dimensional stability that is sought, corresponds in particular to the long direction of this piece, "which is indicated by reference D in Figures 2 and 3, that is, in this case, the dimension corresponding to the neck. to try to achieve such dimensional stability or to improve such dimensional stability, it is necessary especially in the case of necks 4, which due to their design or to the raw materials used, would have a mediocre dimensional stability if they did not have a base fabric as the 1 If, due to its design or to the raw materials used, the neck 4 already has adequate dimensional stability, such stability will be further improved.In the embodiment shown, the neck 4 includes two pieces, the upper 6 and the bottom 7, respectively, joined together, and between which the base fabric 1 is inserted. The pieces 6, 7 are cut in such a way as to include a part 8, called the neck band, intended to be attached adjacent to the main part of the garment, and a flap 9. The two pieces 6, 7 are joined to each other, either sewn to the periphery or by thermofusion. To ensure its stabilization function, the base fabric 1 is placed on piece 4 with the points 3 arranged in the direction to be stabilized, in this case in direction D, which corresponds to the size of the neck. According to a possible embodiment, the base cloth 1 acts as an interlining (figure 2). In this case, the base fabric 1 includes the covering of an adhesive or hot melt material 5. According to another possible embodiment (figure 3), the base fabric 1 is joined to an interliner 10, the latter being joined to the pieces 6, 7. In the latter case, the base fabric 1 is joined to the interliner 10 by means of heat sealing or thermofusion. Such an interlining 10 may be of conventional cotton manufacture or an equivalent.

The method for manufacturing a neck as described above includes a step consisting in joining a base fabric 1 to the pieces 6, 7. According to the embodiments considered, the base fabric 1 is attached only to the pieces 6, 7 or also joined to an interlining 10.

Claims (13)

1. A neck, especially a shirt collar, which includes one or more pieces of fabric and a reinforcing base fabric bonded thereto in such a way as to improve its dimensional stability over time, characterized in that the reinforcement base fabric consists of a fabric with a weft point that includes an insertion of reinforcement and stabilization yarns that go in the direction of the weft, between the rows of stitches, with the reinforcement and stabilization yarns being flat and without tensioning.

2. A neck, as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the reinforcement and stabilization yarns are stabilized by means of heat. A neck, as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it also includes an inserted non-woven fabric flap. A neck, according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it also includes an adhesive or hot melt material intended to ensure its subsequent bonding with a fabric or an interlining. 5. A neck, according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the reinforcement and stabilization yarns consist of synthetic fibers or filaments. A neck, according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the reinforcement base fabric acts as a interlining itself, or reinforces a fabric attached to the neck piece (s) . 0 -. 0 - 7. A neck as claimed in claim 6, characterized in that the reinforcement base fabric includes a coating of adhesive or hot melt material, so as to ensure its attachment to the piece (s). ) of the neck or the interlining. 8. A collar, as claimed in claim 7, characterized in that the interlining is made of cotton or an equivalent. A neck, according to any of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the reinforcement and stabilization yarns of the reinforcement base fabric are arranged in the long direction of the neck; that is, the dimension corresponding to the neck. A neck, according to any of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that it includes two pieces of fabric, upper and lower, respectively, joined to each other, and between which it is inserted and joined -the reinforcement base fabric. 11. A method for making a collar, characterized in that it includes a step consisting of the union of a reinforcement base fabric, according to any of claims 1 to 5, with the piece (s) ) of neck fabric. 12. A method as claimed in claim 11, characterized in that the reinforcement base fabric is only attached to the neck piece (s), and the reinforcement base fabric acts as an interlining on the neck. yes 1

3. A method as claimed in claim 12, characterized in that the reinforcement base fabric is attached to an interlining.