MXPA96006064A

MXPA96006064A - Cosmetic compositions for artificial tanning

Info

Publication number: MXPA96006064A
Application number: MXPA/A/1996/006064A
Authority: MX
Inventors: Ascione Jeanmarc
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1995-04-07
Filing date: 1996-12-03
Publication date: 1998-02-01

Abstract

Novel cosmetic compositions for artificial skin tanning, including a cosmetically acceptable carrier such as a water-in-silicone carrier containing dihydroxyacetone as the tanning agent, are disclosed. The compositions further include a mono- or dihydric alcohol and a silicone emulsifier consisting of a polydimethylsiloxane having one of fórmulae (I) and (II), wherein 1 o a o 500 (where a is an integer), 1 o b o 100 (where b is an integer), and R is a radical -CnH2n-(-OC2H4)x-(-OC3H6)y-O-R', where R'is H or a straight or branched C1-12 alkyl radical, and O o x o 50 (where x is an integer), O o y o 50 (where y is an integer), x + yò1, and 2 o n o 12 (where n is an integer). Said compositions are useful for artificially tanning and/or darkening skin.

Description

SELF-BREATHING COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions for topical use more particularly intended for tanning and / or to toast artificial skin (compositions hereinafter more simply referred to as self-tanning compositions), as well as their use in the aforementioned cosmetic application. More precisely still, the invention relates to self-tanning compositions with improved activity and stability which occur in the form of particular water-in-silicone emulsions (cosmetically acceptable support) and which comprise, as a self-tanning agent, dihydroxyacetone.

It is known that dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is a particularly interesting product that is commonly used in. Cosmetics as an artificial tanning agent for the skin applied to the latter, particularly on the face, makes it possible to obtain a tanning or tanning effect similar in appearance to that which may result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a lamp UV A use BEF: 23597 of this type also has the advantage of completely avoiding the risks of skin reaction generally related to the aforementioned prolonged exposures (erythema, burns, loss of elasticity, appearance of wrinkles, premature aging of the skin, and others).

For various reasons related in particular to a better comfort of use (softness, emolliency, ease of application), today's self-tanning compositions are most often presented in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (ie a support consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersant phase and by an oily dispersed discontinuous phase) into which dihydroxyacetone has been introduced, at various concentrations, which, in view of its hydrophilic character, is present in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.

However, one of the drawbacks of the self-tanning compositions known up to now and belonging to the type indicated above (emulsion H / E containing DHA) is that the intensity of the coloration obtained on the skin and / or the speed with which it is coloration it develops, they may seem like still insufficient.

On the other hand, another difficulty is the fact that the DHA presents an annoying tendency, more or less pronounced depending on the nature of the medium in which it is formulated, to degrade over time, thus cng storage problems and / or conservation that are generally translated over time by a yellowing, undesirable of the compositions that contain it.

The object of the present invention is particularly to solve the aforementioned problems by proposing new emulsions based on DHA which have improved self-tanning efficacy and / or activity on the skin (intensity and behavior), as well as, on the other hand, excellent stability.

Thus, as a consequence of important investigations carried out on the matter, it has now been found by the applicant firm, and this in a completely unexpected and surprising way, that By formulating the DHA in silicone water emulsions containing, on the one hand, a particular silicone emulsifier, and on the other hand, a monohydric or dihydric alcohol, the quality of the skin coloration could be substantially improved in terms of intensity and homogeneity, as well as the stability of DHA.

This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.

Thus, according to one of the objects of the present invention, new cosmetic compositions intended for the artificial tanning of the skin are now proposed, comprising, in a cosmetic-acceptable support of the water-in-silicone emulsion type, dihydroxyacetone as a self-tanning agent. , and which are characterized essentially by the fact that they also contain: - at least one monohydric or dihydric alcohol, - at least one siliconized emulsifier consisting of a polymethylase of formula (I) or (II), optionally dispersed in a pol idimeti lsi loxano voláti 1, CH, - formulas (I) and (II) in which: -1 - a ^ 500 (being an integer) -1 - b - 100 (where b is an integer) -R represents a radical: -CnH2n - (- 0C2H4 )? - (.-0C3H6) yOR 'in which R represents H or a linear or branched alkyl radical of C.-C ^ y: - 0 - x - 50 (where x is a whole number) - 0 - y - 50 (where and a whole number) -? + and * 1 - 2 - n - 12 (where n is an integer) In addition to its self-polishing properties With improved intrinsic properties, the compositions according to the invention exhibit very good stability over time. They also have the advantage, which is highly valued commercially, of being able to be transparent when the refractive index i of the aqueous phase is close to that of the silicone continuous phase, namely when: | i silicone phase - i aqueous phase | - 0.01 Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description that follows: The dihydroxyacetone or DHA is present in the water-in-silicone emulsion according to the invention in proportions sufficient to confer on the skin, after application, a coloration similar to the coloration obtained as a result of a natural tan. It is thus generally present in proportions comprised between 0.5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably between 1 and 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of the emulsion. composition.

The silicone (s) which constitute the continuous phase of the emulsion are generally volatile, linear or cyclic silicones. Preferably, it is polydimeti lsi volatile, linear or cyclic loxanes. Such polyphenols are, for example, cyclomethicone sold under the trade name "Silbione Huile 70 047 V2" by Rhdne-Poulenc.

The silicones are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a proportion comprised between l / 50%, preferably between 5 and 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to an essential characteristic of the present invention, the compositions according to the invention also comprise a third compound which is a specific siliconized emulsifier of high molecular weight. constituted by a polydimethyl siloxane bearing polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropyl chains grafted onto the main chain, this emulsifier having the following structure (I), or (II): formulas (I) and (ID in which: -1 - a - 500 (being an integer) -1 - b - 100 (where b is an integer) - R represents a radical: -CnH20 - (- 0C2H4) ? - (- 0C3H6) and -0-R, in which R 'represents H or a linear or branched alkyl radical of Cj-C- ^ -Ox-50 (where x is an integer) -0-y-50 ( siliconized emulsifiers having at least one, and even more preferably, all the compounds of the invention are implemented as an integer). following characteristics: - 2 - a - 450 - 2 - b - 40 - i = x 30 - 0 - y - 30 < - and - x As examples R 'linear or branched alkyl radicals can be particularly citing the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, pentyl and hexyl radicals, Preferably, according to the present invention, R 'represents hydrogen.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the siliconized emulsifier is the polydimethylsiloxane which corresponds to the following formula: Me3 Si0- (Me2Si0) 3% - (MeSi0) 4 SiMe3 (CH2) 3-Eq8 -P018 • OH in which EO represents an amount of ethylene oxide and PO represents a unit of propylene oxide.

By way of example of a silicone emulsifier suitable in particular for carrying out the present invention, mention may be made of the polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "Silicone Q.-3225C" by the Dow Corning Company.

The silicone emulsifier (s) are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a proportion comprised between 0.1 and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. According to another essential characteristic of the present invention, the compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one monohydric or dihydric alcohol, preferably one dihydric alcohol.

As monohydric alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol.

As dihydric alcohols, isopentyldiol, butylene glycol or also propylene glycol can be particularly mentioned. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, propylene glycol is used as a dihydric alcohol.

Preferably, the monohydric or dihydric alcohol (s) are present in the composition in a proportion of at least 2% and even more preferably in a proportion comprised between 10 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The self-tanning compositions according to the invention may be in the form of creams, milks, gels, gel-creams, fluid lotions, in particular vaporizable fluid lotions, or any other form generally used in cosmetics, in particular the suitable one usually for self-tanning cosmetic compositions.

As indicated above, dihydroxyacetone, in view of its water-soluble nature, is present in the aqueous phase of the emulsions according to the invention.

Among conventional cosmetic adjuvants capable of being contained in the aqueous phase and / or in the silicone phase of the emulsions according to the invention (according to their hydro- and / or liposoluble character), mention may be made in particular of ionic or non-ionic eheaders, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, insect repellents, UV-A and / or UV-B active organic sunscreens, pigments and photoprotective mineral nanopigments, agents "moisturizers, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, fillers, sequestrants, dyes, or any other ingredient commonly used in the field of self-tanning products.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will try to choose this or these possible complementary compounds and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically related to the emulsion according to the invention are not, or substantially, altered by the addition (s). considered.

Another object of the present invention is constituted by the use of the compositions as defined above as, or for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions for artificial tanning and / or toasting of the skin. As indicated above, the compositions can then be packaged in the form of creams, milks, cream gels, or else fluid lotions, in particular vaporizable fluid lotions, or any other suitable form.

Another object of the present invention resides in a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin intended to tan and / or artificially toast it and which consists essentially in applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition as defined above to it.

Concrete examples, but in no way restrictive, intended to illustrate the invention will be given below.

In all the examples that follow, the amounts are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE 1 The applicant has evaluated through a comparative test the cutaneous coloration obtained from two compositions each containing 5% DHA. Thus, a first composition (1) was made, namely an emulsion of water in silicone according to the invention and a second composition (2), namely a H / E emulsion niosomada representative of the state of the art.

Composition (1) A: polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "Silicone Q 3225C" by Dow Corning "10% polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name" Silbione Huile 70 047 V 2"by Rhone Poulenc 7%xAN -dihydroxyacetone 5% - dextrose anhydrous 2% - propylene glycol 39% - demineralized water esp 100% Composition (2): A: Dispersed nonionic lipid vesicles (niosoma): - Polyglycerolated cetyl alcohol in 3 moles of glycerol (Chime NL Chimex) 3.8% - Cholesterol 3.8% - Monosodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.4% (Ajinomoto HS 11 Acylglutamate) D: dispersed liquid oily phase Petrolatum oil Cyclomethicone 5% B: Water Aqueous gelling phase: - Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.5% - Preservatives CS - Water 30% C: Aqueous dispersing phase: - Glycerin 2% - Dihydroxyacetone 5% - Water cps 100% The composition (1) was carried out in the following manner: at room temperature, B was slowly poured into A under gentle Moritz agitation at 1500 r / min. The composition was then left under stirring for about 10 min progressively increasing the speed to about 4500 r / min.

The composition (2) with respect to it was prepared as follows: the phase E by dispersion of the gelling agent in water at 60 ° C under stirring. Subsequently, phase A and phase B were heated separately at 80-85 ° C until homogenization. Then B was added to A under strong Turrax agitation. When the mixture (A + B) has returned to room temperature, phase C and then phase D were added. Finally, phase E was added under gentle agitation.

For these two compositions thus prepared, the intensity of coloration inherent to it after a certain time T, ie AL-, was then determined. The measurement of the intensity of coloration was made according to the following method: these formulations were applied on zones 2 of 4.5 cm x 4.5 cm, at a rate of 2 mg / cm of skin, on the back of 5 human models, Colorimetric measurements were then made with the help of a Minolta CR 200, 1H30, 3H, 5H and 24H colorimeter after application of the products.

The results in? L means are indicated in the table (I) given below: Table (I) These results clearly show that a faster and significantly more intense increase in coloration is obtained with the composition according to the invention.

EXAMPLE 2: The purpose of this example is to show the critical character of the silicone emulsifier according to the invention. Two compositions, a composition (3) according to the invention and a comparative composition (4) that does not contain silicone emulsifier as defined in the present invention but another silicone emulsifier, were made according to the operating mode used for the composition (1) of example 1.

Composition (3) - Pol idimeti 1 si lo sold under the trade name "Silicone Q23225c by Dow Corning 10% - pol idimeti lsi lo sold under the trade name "Silbione Huile 70 047 V 2" by Rhdne Poulenc 7% - Dihydroxyacetone 5% - Dextrose anhydrous 2% - Propylene glycol 20% - preservatives is - 100% demineralized water Composition (4) • Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the trade name "Silicone Abil EM 90" by Goldschmidt 1% • Pol idimeti lsi lo sold under the trade name "Silbione Huile 70 047 V2" by Rhdne Poulenc 16% - Dihydroxyacetone 5% - Dextrose anhydrous 2% propi lengl icol 20% Preservatives en 100% demineralized water For these two compositions thus prepared, the measurement of the coloring intensity was carried out according to the following method: these formulations were applied on areas of 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm, at a rate of 2 mg / c of skin, on the internal face of the forearms of 3 human models, namely M ,, 2 and 3 then colorimetric measurements were made with the help of a Minolta CM 1000, 3H colorimeter after the application of the products. The results are indicated in the table (II) given below: Table (II) These results clearly show that a more intense coloration is observed with the composition containing the silicone emulsifier according to the invention.

EXAMPLE 3 The purpose of this example is to show the critical character of the alcohol according to the invention, Two compositions, a composition (5) according to the invention and a comparative composition (6) that does not contain alcohol as defined in the present invention were made according to the operating mode used for the composition (1) of example 1.

Composition (5): _ pol idimeti lsi loxane sold under the trade name "Silicone Q23225C" by Dow Corning 10% - pol idimeti lsi loxane sold under the trade name "Silbione Huile 70 047 V 2" by Rhdne Poulenc 7% dihydroxyacetone 5% dextrose anhydrous 2% propi lengl icol 30% demineralized water esp 100% Composition (6) • pol idimeti lsi loxane sold under the trade name "Silicone Q23225C" by Dow Corning 10% • pol idimeti lsi loxane sold under the trade name "Silbione Huile 70 047 V 2" by Rhdne Poulenc 7% - dihydroxyacetone 5% • dextrose anhydrous 2 % - glycerin 30% • 100% demineralized water For these two compositions, the comparative test was carried out according to the same protocol as for example 2. The results are indicated in the table (III) given below: Table (III) These results clearly show that a more intense coloration was obtained with the composition containing the propylene glycol according to the invention. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant, to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention. Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition intended for artificial skin tanning of the type comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support of the silicone water type, DHA as a self-tanning agent, characterized in that it also contains: - at least one monohydric or dihydric alcohol, minus one siliconized emulsifier consisting of a polydimethylsiloxane of formula (I) or (II), below, dispersed in a volatile polydimethylsiloxane, CH3 - (I) R- - R (II) formulas (I) and (II) in which: -1 - a - 500 (being a whole number) - 1 - b - 100 (where b is a whole number) - R represents a radical: - CH - (-0C-H.) - (-0C. H r '-'? R 'n 20 2 4 x 3 6y - in which R 'represents H or a linear or branched alkyl radical of : - 0 - x - 50 (where x is a whole number) - 0 - y - 50 (where y is an integer) - x + y * 1 - 2 - n - 12 (where n is a whole number

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier of formula (I) or (II) has at least one of the following characteristics: -2 - a - 450 -2 - b - 40 -1 - x - 30 -0 - and - 30 -y - X

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that said siliconized emulsifier has all of the indicated characteristics.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R 'represents hydrogen.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is the polydimethylsiloxane of the following formula: Me-Si0- (Me2Si0) 396 - (MeSiO) 4 -SiMe3

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is a polydimethylsiloxane of formula (I) or (II) dispersed in a volatile polydimethylsiloxane.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said alcohol is a dihydric alcohol.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that said dihydric alcohol is propylene glycol.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monohydric or hydrophilic alcohol contains at least 2% by weight of the total amount of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monohydric or dihydric alcohol represents between 10 and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier represents between 0.1 and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier represents between 0.5 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition

13. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, such as or for the manufacture of compositions intended for tanning and / or artificial toasting of the skin,

14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin intended to tan and / or artificially toast it, characterized in that it consists in applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 thereon.