MXPA06009955A - Hair treatment composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A hair treatment composition for straightening hair. The composition comprises:i) 0.1 to 7.9 wt%of the total formulation of a sugar lactone;and ii) cationic surfactant of formula (1):[N(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4)]+ (X)- in which R1, R2, R3, and R4 are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms;and X is a salt-forming anion selected from halogen, acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate.

Description

COMPOSITION OF TREATMENT FOR HAIR Field of the invention The present invention relates to conditioning compositions. In particular, it refers to a conditioning composition that straightens the hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Hair straightening compositions have been around for some time. Many of the compositions that are on the market are based on chemical treatment of the hair in a two-step process using reducing agents based on thiol or hydroxide, followed by a step of neutralization or oxidation. Such systems have several negatives associated with them; since the process itself takes a relatively long time and is difficult to drive, in many cases this process of alignment is performed by a qualified stylist in a professional salon. Additionally, the straightening process damages the hair, has an unpleasant odor and can cause irritation to the scalp. The sugars have been used for styling compositions as described in DE 697 634 and US 4 91 1 91 9. We have now found a way to straighten hair by using a conditioning formulation without the aforementioned negatives.

Description of the invention The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition comprising: i) 0.1 to 7.9% by weight of the total formulation of a sugar lactone; and ii) cationic surfactant of formula 1: [N (R1) (R2) (R3) (R4)] + (X) "Formula 1 wherein R ^ R2, R3 and R are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt forming anion selected from halogen, acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulfate and alkyl sulfate. A further aspect of this invention is a method for straightening hair without mechanical intervention, in which a composition comprising a sugar lactone is applied to the hair. The use of a sugar lactone for hair straightening is also described.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION Unless otherwise specified, all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably aqueous compositions intended to be applied to the hair after shampooing and rinsing. Massage is applied to hair and wet scalp, preferably followed by additional rinsing with water before drying the hair. By aqueous composition, it is meant that the compositions of the invention comprise 60% by weight or more of water, preferably 70% or more, more preferably 80% or more.

Cationic Surfactants The compositions according to the invention comprise one or more cationic conditioning surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to hair. Cationic conditioning surfactants useful in compositions of the invention contain hydrophilic portions of amino or quaternary ammonium, which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention. The cationic surfactants for use with the invention are those corresponding to formula 1: [N (R1) (R2) (R3) (4)] + (X) "Formula 1 wherein Ri, R2, R3 and R are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt forming anion, such as those selected from halogen radicals (eg, chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulfate and alkyl sulfate. The aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages and other groups such as amino groups. The longest chain aliphatic groups, for example, those of approximately 12 carbons, or greater, can be saturated or unsaturated. The preferred cationic surfactants for conditioning compositions of the present invention are those according to formula 1, wherein R 1 is an alkyl chain of C 6 to C 22 and R 2, R 3 and R are independently selected from the group consisting of CH 3 and CH2CH2OH. Another preferred class of cationic conditioning surfactants has Ri and R2 independently selected from C16 chains to C22 saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and with R3 and R4 independently selected from the group consisting of CH3 and CH2CH2OH, preferably CH3. Particularly preferred cationic systems are those which comprise both dimethyl and trimethyl quaternary ammonium groups described above. Another suitable class of cationic conditioning surfactants has R- and R2 independently selected from C16 to C22 hydrocarbyl chains comprising at least one ester linkage in both R- and R2, and with R3 and R4 independently selected from the group consisting of CH3 and CH2CH2OH. Wherein Ri and R2 are independently selected from saturated or unsaturated C15 to C21 alkyl chains. X is preferably a halide, a methosulfate anion or mixtures thereof. Chloride is particularly preferred. Examples of preferred cationic surfactants used alone or in a mixture include: cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and bi-phenyltrimethylammonium chloride and di-hydrogenated tallow dimethylammonium chloride. Particularly preferred systems are those comprising cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and dioctadecyldimethyl ammonium chloride in a proportion (by weight) from 1: 3 to 3.1 or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and di-tallow chloride dimethyl ammonium chloride in a proportion (by weight) from 1 : 3 to 3: 1, more preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 1, most preferably from 3: 1 to 2: 1. The level of cationic surfactant in the formulation is preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, most preferably from 2 to 6% by weight.

Monosaccharide The composition of the invention comprises a sugar lactone, preferably gluconolactone, especially glucono-delta-lactone. The level of gluconolactone is from 0.1 to 7.9% by weight, preferably greater than 0.5% by weight of the total composition, more preferably the level of gluconolactone is from 1% by weight to 7% by weight of the total composition, most preferably from 2 up 6% by weight. The weight ratio of gluconolactone of total cationic surfactant is preferably in the range of 1: 3 to 10: 1 (based on% by weight of active), more preferably 1.1 to 8: 1, most preferably 2. : 1 to 5: 1.

Wax The compositions of the invention preferably comprise a wax. Beeswax is a preferred wax in the composition since it additionally straightens the hair without any sensory negative. The beeswax is preferably in particulate form as particles with a mean diameter (D50) of 50 micrometers or less, preferably 20 micrometers or less, more preferably 10 micrometers or less and even more preferably 1 micrometer or less. The beeswax is suitably present at from 0.2% to 4% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4% to 3%, more preferably from 0.6% to 2%. The beeswax can be pre-formed in an emulsion or dispersion before addition to the rest of the composition.

Fatty Material The conditioning compositions of the invention preferably comprise at least one fatty material. It is believed that the combined use of fatty materials and cationic surfactants in the conditioning compositions leads to the formation of a liquid crystal or structured lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed. By "fatty material" is meant a fatty alcohol, an alkoxylated fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the alkyl chain of the fatty material is completely saturated. Suitable fatty materials comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous as they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention. The alkoxylated fatty alcohols (eg, ethoxylated or propoxylated) having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain can be used in place of, or in addition to, the fatty alcohols themselves.

Suitable examples include ethylene glycol cetyl ether, poly (ethylene) (2) stearyl ether, poly (ethylene) (4) cetyl ether and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred is a cetearyl alcohol (a 1: 2 mixture of cetyl alcohol: stearyl alcohol).

The level of fatty material in conditioners of the invention is suitably from 0.5 to 10, preferably from 1 to 6 percent by weight of the total composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 10: 1 to 1: 10, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 8, optimally from 1: 1 to 1: 7.

Alkali metal salt The compositions may contain an alkali metal halide or mixtures thereof. The preferred alkali metals are sodium or potassium and the preferred halides are chlorides and bromides. In particular, poiasium chloride is preferred.

Aceite conditioner A preferred composition of compositions according to the invention is a hydrophobic conditioning oil. In order that the oil exists in the preferred form as discrete streams in the compositions according to the invention, it must be water-insoluble. By insoluble in water it is meant that the solubility in water at 25 ° C is 0.01% by weight or less. It is preferred if the oil conditioner is non-volatile, by which is meant that the vapor pressure of the oil at 25 ° C is less than 10 Pa. As used in the present, the term "oil conditioner" includes any material, which is used to give a hair conditioning benefit to the hair. For example, suitable materials are those that confront one or more benefits that are related to brightness, softness, combing ability, wet handling, amphysical properties, damage, body, volume, ability to sterilize and manageability. Suitable hydrophobic conditioning oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof. The hydrocarbon oils include cyclic hydrocarbons, straight chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (unsaturated or unsalted), and branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (safurated or unsaturated). The straight chain hydrocarbon acels will preferably have from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms. Branched-chain hydrocarbon oils can and can normally confer larger numbers of carbon atoms. Also suitable are the polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C2-C6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be linear or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will normally be relatively more lengthwise, with an ionic number of carbon atoms as described herein for straight chain hydrocarbons in general. The branched chain polymers may be of a higher chain length. The average molecular weight of number of raw materials may vary widely, but will normally be about 2000, preferably from about 200 to about 1000, more preferably from about 300 to about 600. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, sauced and unsatisfied dodecane, unsolvable and insipid uroidean, feirara, saiurado and nsaiurado, peniadecano saíurado and inssaíurado, hexadecano saíurado and unsatisfied, and mixtures of the same. The branched chain isomers of compound strains, as well as of long chain hydrocarbons, may also be used. Exemplary branched chain isomers are allymely branched or unsaturated alkanes, such as the isomers subsi fi ed with permelyl, eg, the isomers subsfifuted with permelyl of hexadecane and eicosane, eg as 2, 2-, 4,4-, 6,6 -, 8,8-dimethyld-10-meityldecano and 2,2-, 4,4-, 6,6-dimethylamino-8-methylanine, sold by Permefhyl Corporaíion. A further example of a hydrocarbon polymer is polybutene, such as the copolymer of isobutylene and butene. A commercially available material of this lipo is L-14 polybuyene from Amoco Chemical Co. (Chicago, Ill, U.S.). The particularly preferred hydrocarbons are the various grades of mineral oils. The mineral oils are clear oily liquid oblende oil oil, from which the waxes have been removed, and the most volatile fractions have been removed by slippage. The fraction distillate between 250 ° C to 300 ° C is called mineral oil and consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons ranging from C16H34 to C21H. Suitable commercially available materials of this type include Sirius M85 and Sirius M125, available Silkolene ions. The suitable fatty esters are characterized by at least 10 carbon atoms and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols, for example, esters of monocarboxylic acids, esters of polyhydric alcohols and esters of di- and fricarboxylic acids. The hydrocarbyl radicals of the fatty esters here can also include or be connected covalently to them, or they will have comparative functionalities, such as alkoxy and amide moieties, such as ethoxy or ether bonds. The monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and / or acids of the formula R'COOR, in which R 'and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Specific examples include, for example, alkyl and alkenyl esters of fatty acids with aliphatic chains having from about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms, and esters of alkyl alcohol and / or alkenyl fatty alcohol carboxylic acids. Aliphatic chain derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl alcohol with approximately 10 to about 22 carbon atoms, benzoate esters of fatty alcohols having from about 12 to 20 carbon atoms. The monocarboxylic acid ester does not necessarily need to contain at least one chain with at least 10 carbon atoms, as long as the total number of aliphatic chain carbon atoms is at least 10. Examples include isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurale, lauranium isohexyl, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl esietyarate, isopropyl isostearate, dihexyldecyl adipate, lauryl lactate, myrisyl lactate, ceylolaryl, oleyl stearylate , oleyl oleate, oleyl mirislate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate and oleyl adipate. The di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used. Esters include, for example, esters of C4-C8 dicarboxylic acids, such as esters of C-C22 (preferably CrC6) of succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid and octanoic acid. Examples include diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate and diisopropyl sebacate. Other specific examples include isocetyl stearoyl stearate and tristearyl citrate. The polyhydric alcohol esters include alkylene glycol esters, for example esters of mono- and di-fatty acids of ethylene glycol, esters of mono- and di-fatty acids of diethylene glycol, esters of mono- and di-fatty acids of polyethylene glycol, esters of mono- and di-fatty acids of propylene glycol, monooleate of polypropylene glycol, monostearate of polypropylene glycol, monoesarylation of epoxylated propylene glycol, esters of polyglycerol polyglyceryl acids, glyceryl monoesarylated epoxylate, monoesaryarazole of 1,3-butylene glycol, diasterase of 1, 3-buylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid esters, fatty acid esters of sorbifan, esters of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acids and mono-, di- and igiglicéridos. The most preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and glycerides, more specifically the mono-, di- and tri-esters of glycerol and long-chain carboxylic acids, such as C1-C22 carboxylic acids. A variety of different types of vegetables can be obtained from vegetable and animal fats and oils, such as coconut oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil. , oil of cod liver, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, lanolin and soybean oil. Synthetic oils include iolein and triesarin glyceryl dilaurate. Specific examples of preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soybean oil and coconut oil. The oil can be mixed with other materials in the discrete streams present in compositions according to the invention. The foundational quality of the hydrophobic conditioning oil present in the composition is preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from 0.2% to 6%, most preferably 0.5% to 4%.

Silicone Conditioning Oils Preferred hydrophobic conditioning oils for use in compositions according to the invention are silicones.

Silicones suitable for use as conditioning oils include polydiorganosiloxanes, in the form of polydimethylsiloxanes, which has the designation of dimethicone CTFA. Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. It is preferred if the silicone oil also comprises a functionalized silicone. Suitable functionalized silicones include, for example, silicones substituted with amino, carboxy, betaine, quaternary ammonium, carbohydrate, hydroxy and alkoxy. Preferably, the functionalized silicone contains multiple subsitutions. So that there is no doubt, with respect to silicones subsidated with hydroxyl, a polydimethylsiloxane merely containing hydroxyl ions (which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol) is not considered a functionalized silicone within the present invention. However, a polydimethylsiloxane containing hydroxyl subsides with the polymer chain is considered a functionalized silicone. Preferred functionalized silicones are amino-functionalized silicones. Suitable amino functionalized silicones are described in EP 455, 185 (Helene Curfis) and include trimeylsilylamodimeicone. An example of a commercially available amino-functionalized silicone useful in the silicone component of the composition of the invention is DC-8566 available from Dow Corning (INCI name: dimethyl, methyl (aminoeylaminoisobutyl) siloxane). That has a weight percent amine functionality of approximately 1.4%. By "amino functional silicone" is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include: polysiloxanes with the designation CTFA "amodimethacona". Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicon acetyls DC-8220, DC-8166, DC-8466 and DC- 8950-1 14 (all ex Dow Corning) and GE 1 149-75 (eg General Electric Silicones) The suitable quaternary silicone polymers are described in EP-A-0 530 974. A preferred silicone-containing styrenic polymer is K3474, eg Goldschmidi Preferred functional silicone oxide for use as a component in the hydrophobic conditioning oil is an alkoxy-substituted silicone Such molecules are known as silicone copolyols and have one or more polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide groups attached to the polymer backbone. of silicone, optionally through an alkyl linking group The suitable silicone copolyols have an HLB of 10 or less, preferably 7 or less, more preferably 4 or less. A suitable silicon copolyol maferial is DC5200, known as lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 meicone (INCI name), available from Dow Corning. Also suitable for use with the present invention is a copolymer of divinyl dimeticone and dimethicone. A suitable commercial material supplied as an aqueous emulsion is Dow Corning HMW 2220. It is preferred to use a combination of functional and non-functional silicones as the hydrophobic silicone conditioning oil. Preferably, the silicones are mixed in common droplets before incorporation into compositions according to the invention. It is preferred if the silicones are added to the compositions of the invention as pre-formed emulsions, more preferably as microemulsions.

Additional ingredients The compositions according to the invention can also incorporate other suitable cosmetic ingredients, preferably at a level of 2% by weight or less. Suitable ingredients include: viscosity modifiers, preservatives, coloring agents, polyols such as glycerin and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents, such as EDTA, antioxidants, fragrances, antimicrobials, antidandruff agents, cationic conditioning polymers, styling ingredients, sunblocks, proteins and hydrolyzed proteins. Although the product may be in any form suitable for application to hair, it is preferred if it is a rinse product. The products used to condition the hair are especially preferred. In use, the composition of the invention is applied to the hair and then preferably rinsed up to 30 minutes after application, more preferably, this product is rinsed 10 minutes after application. The invention will now be illustrated with the help of the following Examples. The Examples of the invention are illustrated by a number, the Comparative examples are illustrated by a letter. The following examples, which are facts, are shown as illustrations only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.

In vitro tests The hair loops were washed twice with shampoo base and allowed to dry at 50% RH and 23 ° C overnight. A photograph was taken. The loops were washed twice with 1.0 g of shampoo base and combed with a wide-dyed comb. The loops were brought in with 2.0 g of conditioning formulation, as detailed in the table of examples, during 2 min. The conditioner was rinsed and the loops were combed with a wide comb and allowed to dry at 50% RH and 23 ° C during the night. The loops were photographed. The panellists evaluated the photographs of the loops taken after and after the irradiation, and there was a benefit to the loops compared to the loops brought with a standard conditioning composition.

Formulations 1 to 5 delivered an increase in lapping compared to Formulation A (control). Formulations 2, 3 and 5 gave a spreading benefit at 99% significance. Formulation 4 gave a spreading benefit at 95% significance. Formulation 5 gave a greater benefit of spraying than formulation 3, which gave a greater spreading benefit than formulation 2, which gave a greater spreading benefit than formulation 4, which gave a greater spreading benefit than spraying. formulation 1. Additionally, formulations 1 to 5 delivered a decrease in foaming. Formulations 2, 4 and 5 gave a decrease in foaming at 99% significance compared to formulation A. Formulation 4 gave a greater froth benefit than formulation 5, which gave a greater foam benefit than formulation 2, which gave a greater benefit of foaming than formulation 3, which gave a better benefit of foaming than formulation 1. Additionally, formulations 1 to 5 delivered a wavy decrease. Formulations 2, 3, 4 and 5 gave a wavy decrease at 99% significance. Formulation 5 gave a greater waviness benefit than formulation 3, which gave a greater waviness benefit than formulation 2, which gave a greater waviness benefit than formulation 4, which gave a greater waviness benefit than the formulation. formulation 1.

In vivo tests Formulations 5, 6 and 7 were evaluated by panelists in a monadic home spindle test. The number of panelists who evaluated each conditioner formulation was 50. Five prototype formulations and one control formulation were tested. The tofal number of consumers = 300. The test duration was 2 weeks, with consumers using the pro-type formulation in a minimum of 6 washes. A standard shampoo formulation was supplied for use just prior to the application of the conditioner formulation. fifteen fifteen Formulations 5, 6 and 7 gave significant benefit in a variety of visual attributions when compared to formulation B (control). In particular, formulation 5 gave more straight hair at 90% significance and a reduced number of curls at 90% significance. Formulation 6 gave a reduced depth of curl at 95% significance.

Claims (10)

1 . A method for straightening hair comprising the step of applying to the hair a composition comprising sugar lacium.

2. A method for straightening hair according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises: i) 0.1 to 7.9% by weight of the total formulation of a sugar lactone; and ii) cationic surfactant of formula 1: [N (R1) (R2) (R3) (R4)] + (X) - Formula 1 wherein R ^ R2, R3 and R are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt forming anion selected from halogen, acetamide, cilrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulfate and alkyl sulfate.

3. A method according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the sugar lacium within the composition is gluconolactone.

4. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the sugar lactone level is greater than 0.5% by weight of the total composition.

5. A method according to claim 4, wherein the level of sugar lacium is from 2% by weight to 6% by weight of the total composition.

6. A method according to claim 2, wherein the level of cationic surfactanle is from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight of the total composition.

7. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises a wax.

8. A method according to claim 7, wherein the wax is beeswax.

9. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition is rinsed.

10. A method for straightening hair according to any preceding claim, wherein the hair is straightened without mechanical intervention. eleven . A method for hair straightening according to the claim 10, in which the composition is applied to the hair and then rinsed from the hair to 30 minutes after application. 12. The use of a sugar lactone to straighten hair.