MXPA06006580A - Cosmetic rinse-off compositions comprising inulin-type fructan - Google Patents

Abstract

The use is disclosed of an inulin-type fructan for the manufacture of cosmetic rinse-off compositions for the treatment of the hair and/or the skin. The compositions comprise, apart from conventional ingredients in conventional amounts, from 0.10 to 10%of the inulin-type fructan, and are free from (i) cationic polymers, (ii) terpolymers comprising a non-ionic monomer bearing a urethane group, and (iii) polysaccharides that are different from inulin-type fructan.Typical rinse-off compositions in accordance with the invention are also free from monosaccharides and from di- and oligosaccharides that are different from inulin-type fructan, apart from the mono- and disaccharides that naturally occur in inulin-type fructan. The inulin-type fructan, which is biodegradable and has no eutrophic effects on surface waters, can be used to completely substitute cationic polymeric conditioning agents in conventional cosmetic rinse-off compositions. Novel rinse-off compositions are also disclosed.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS OF DISPOSAL BY RINSING COMPRISING FRUIT TYPE INULINE FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to cosmetic rinse-off compositions comprising an inulin-type fructan, a process for making them, as well as the use of an inulin-type fructan as a total substitute for cationic polymeric conditioning agents in compositions cosmetic removal by rinsing.

BACKGROUND AND PREVIOUS TECHNIQUE The so-called rinsing removal compositions constitute an important type economically speaking of cosmetics. Rinsing removal compositions are aqueous compositions intended to be used for the treatment of hair and / or skin, which after their application are removed by rinsing with water while leaving a deposit of one or more ingredient in the hair and / or the skin in an amount that provides desirable cosmetic effects. Typical rinse-off compositions include hair shampoos, hair conditioners, shower shampoos, gels for the hair shower and foams for bathroom. Key aspects of rinsing removal compositions include cleaning effects and foaming effects, and, when intended for hair treatment, provide conditioning effects, and when intended for skin treatment, give a soft feel and smooth. Additional aspects of importance include viscosity, homogeneity and stability of the rinsing removal composition. Thus, rinsing removal cosmetic compositions are largely determined by the intended application. Accordingly, a rinse off composition contains several other ingredients in order to provide desired physico-chemical properties to the rinse-off composition and provide cosmetic properties and desired effects for the proposed application. The components of conventional rinse-off cosmetic compositions herein are called ingredients. A first class of ingredients is constituted by cleaning agents (purification), including soaps and detergents. The latter include anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and their mixtures. Cleaning agents that have pronounced surfactant and foam-forming properties provide a rich lather and promote efficient removal of hair and skin from contaminants, such as dust, natural fats and perspiration residues.

A second class of ingredients is constituted by conditioning agents, which are essential ingredients of rinse-off compositions for the treatment of hair. The conditioning agents minimize the static electricity in the hair and make the hair easily manageable, easily unraveled and the compatibility of wet and dry hair is easy and uniform. They also provide body, luster and softness to the hair. These and other common cosmetic effects are conventionally referred to herein as conditioning or conditioning effects. The conditioning agents are cationic, anionic type or nonionic type compounds, referred to herein as cationic, anionic and nonionic conditioning agents, which leave, when the cosmetic composition is rinsed, a deposit on the hair that provides the same desired conditioning properties. Cationic conditioning agents are normally cationic polymers, ie polymeric compounds containing cationic groups and / or groups which are ionizable in aqueous medium to form cationic groups. Cationic groups are, for example, groups bearing a quaternary nitrogen atom. Consequently, polymers carrying these latter cationic groups are sometimes called polyquaternium compounds.

By the term "cationic polymers" is meant herein cationic polymeric conditioning agents. The hair is negatively charged and due to its opposite electrical charge compared to the hair, the cationic polymers interact easily with the hair and leave a deposit on it when the cosmetic compositions containing said cation polymers are rinsed off. The deposition of the cationic polymer in the hair provides the conditioning properties. In addition, cationic polymers are readily soluble in water-based shampoo compositions, which facilitate the preparation of rinse-off compositions. Anionic conditioning agents usually consist of so-called anionic polymers, called polymeric compounds containing units that carry one or more carboxylate groups. Typical anionic conditioning agents are, for example, alginate salts. Nonionic conditioning agents consist of nonionic type compounds, including high molecular weight compounds and certain polymeric compounds. Normal nonionic type conditioning agents comprise various waxes and oily materials, silicones and copolymers containing silicone. Due to their negative electric charge and absence of electric charge, respectively, the anionic compounds and type compounds Nonionics are commonly less effective conditioning agents compared to compounds of the cationic type. In view of their performance and solubility in water, cationic polymers are preferably used as a conditioning agent, and, currently, about 75 percent of conventional cosmetic rinse-off compositions contain cationic polymers. Typical cationic polymers used as conditioning agents in rinse off compositions are described in WO 02/055036. Commercially available cationic polymers include copolymers of dimethyl dimethylamino dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate (available as Gafquat®, trademark of International Specialty Products), dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers, and dimethyldialiammonium chloride copolymers and archilamide (available as Merquat®, trademark of ONDEO Nalco), and chloride (trimethylammonium propyl ether) derivatives of cellulose (available as polymers UCARE ™, trademark of Amerchol). An additional class of ingredients is constituted by so-called thickeners or viscosity improvers, that is, ingredients that provide the rinse-off cosmetic composition with a desired viscosity, so that the composition is, for example, in the form of a gel or cream, a viscous liquid, or a liquid that can be poured or that flows freely.

In addition, thickeners are also used to provide physical stability to the rinsing removal composition. In this regard, stability refers to the maintenance of the homogeneity of the composition. The thickener greatly prevents the composition from separating into different liquid layers in case the composition is present in the form of an emulsion, preventing a solid phase from settling in case the composition is present in the form of a suspension, or prevents some of the ingredients from crystallizing. Typically used thickeners include xanthan gums, alginate salts, and entangled acrylic copolymers, for example, Tego Carbomer® (trade name of Degussa Care Specialties), and Carbopol® (trade name of Noveno). The rinse-off cosmetic compositions commonly also comprise several additional ingredients, for example color agents, perfume agents, antibacterial agents, pH stabilizing agents, antioxidants and stabilizers to inhibit the darkening resulting from the chemical reactions of certain ingredients. In this way, the desirable properties of a rinse-off cosmetic composition include, on the one hand, physico-chemical characteristics, particularly an appropriate viscosity, physical stability, and good rinsing-off properties, and on the other hand, cosmetic effects on the skin and / or the hair, such as a smooth feeling of the skin, and an easy detangle, soft feeling and good hair conditioning. In the search for the ingredients that provide such properties and others more desirable for rinsing removal compositions, various ingredients and combinations of ingredients have been evaluated, and various rinsing removal compositions have already been described. For example, certain saccharides and polysaccharides have been described to provide desirable cosmetic effects on hair or skin, particularly softness and smooth feel, while certain polysaccharides, particularly modified starches and starches, pectins, gums and other polymeric compounds, particularly acrylic polymers , have been described as thickeners. However, the use of most of these ingredients and combinations of these, sometimes results in compositions having on the one hand desirable cosmetic properties but on the other hand insufficient physical-chemical properties and / or other disadvantages, or vice versa. Representative prior art compositions are provided below. All percentages (%) indicated are in percentage by weight, unless otherwise stated. US 2,237,629, discloses a shampoo composed of 25% of ammonium salt of the mono-ethanol acid-suifonic ester palmitic, 10% saccharide (sugar cane), 65% water, and adequate amounts of perfume and / or coloring matter. US 3,998,761 discloses shampoo compositions comprising, a conventional detergent system, typically a synthetic sulfonate or a synthetic nonionic detergent, and from 4 to 20% beer solids as conditioning agents. Beer solids are mainly composed of a mixture of polydispersed proteins and polysaccharides containing more than one unit of glucose per molecule. The shampoos may also include conventional ingredients, for example opacifying agents, sequestering agents, thickening agents, foam improvers, detergency builders and antibacterials. US 3,988,438 discloses a hair shampoo with cleaning and conditioning properties, the composition of which comprises a polysaccharide, ie an alginate salt (preferably the triethylamine salt (TEA) of alginic acid), in addition to the various cleaning agents and additives, such as solvents, stabilizers, preservatives, sequestrants, perfume and colorants. EP 0 591 443 describes the use of oligosaccharides, ie glyco-oligosaccharides, fructo-olisaccharides, galacto-oligosaccharides and their mixtures, which are easily metabolized with beneficial strains of the skin or vaginal microflora, for the preparation of a composition for the treatment of the skin or the membrane of the vaginal mucosa, having as objective to favor the development of said beneficial microflora against the microflora strains pathogenic or not desirable. The composition, which may comprise from 0.1 to 20% and even more of the oligosaccharide, is usually in the form of a shampoo, a liquid soap or body lotion. US 4,364,837 discloses a free-flowing shampoo composition comprising 20 to 75% water, 0.1 to 30% of at least one non-ionic or cationic conditioning agent, 3 to 60% of an anionic detergent and to 70% of a saccharide miscible in water. Said saccharide includes mono and disaccharides, polysaccharide molecules with chains comprising mainly glucose and containing at least three or more glucose units, as well as hydrogenation products and mixtures thereof. High fructose syrup, made through the enzymatic conversion of glucose to fructose, is also a suitable saccharide. The saccharides may have dextrose equivalents of about 20 to 100. A disadvantage of the shampoo composition is its high saccharide content (15 to 70%). US 6,261, 578 B1 describes cosmetic rinse removal compositions for the treatment of skin and hair, comprising a combination of a polysaccharide, including inulin but preferably guar gum, and an acrylic terpolymer composed of a monomer consisting of an acid carboxylic containing an α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation, a nonionic monomer carrying a urethane group, and a monomeric non-surfactant with monoethylenic unsaturation that is different from the first mentioned monomer. The combination of polysaccharide and said terpolymer provides a desired thickening to the cosmetic composition in combination with desirable cosmetic performances. However, according to WO 02/055034 A2 (page 1, lines 17-19) and WO 02/055036 A2 (page 1, lines 18-21), said compositions still have disadvantages including insufficient rinsing, insufficient stability at an acidic pH, insufficient distribution in keratinous materials, and / or insufficient cosmetic properties. WO 02/055034 A2 discloses cosmetic rinsing removal compositions for the treatment of hair and skin containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a combination of at least one fructan, preferably inulin, at least one other polysaccharide and at least one an agent that is beneficial for the treatment of keratin materials. The compositions have a velvety-smooth texture, are easily removed by rinsing, and provide the hair and skin with a soft feel. However, they have the disadvantage of requiring at least two different polysaccharides to provide the desired properties. This space complicates the composition and preparation of rinsing removal compositions, which obviously result in technical and economic disadvantages. WO 02/055036 A2 discloses cosmetic rinsing removal compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a combination of a cationic polymer and therefore a fructan. The compositions improve the detangling of the hair, provide soft feeling to treated keratinous material such as skin and hair, and are easily removed by rinsing. Despite the fact that cosmetic rinsing removal compositions are widely used, most of the prior art compositions, however, present one or more disadvantages or problems. Normal disadvantages include poor biodegradability of widely used ingredients, particularly polymeric cations and polymeric thickeners containing acrylate. In addition, most rinsing removal compositions have additional disadvantages resulting from the presence of cationic polymers. Despite their highly desirable properties as conditioning agents, the cationic polymers are undesirable eutrophic effects present on the surface waters resulting from their nitrogen content and the too large amounts of cationic polymers that are used each year in cosmetic elimination compositions. by rinsing. Accordingly, cationic polymers become less desirable as conditioning agents and there is still a tendency to restrict the use of cationic polymers in cosmetic rinsing removal compositions. Accordingly, the industry is continually looking for alternate and / or improved rinse-off cosmetic compositions that are preferably composed of ingredients easily. biodegradabies that do not contribute to eutrophication of surface waters.

OBJECT OF THE INVENTION The present invention seeks to provide alternate cosmetic rinse-off compositions for the treatment of hair and / or skin, which are preferably free of one or more disadvantages or drawbacks of conventional rinse-off compositions.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In the search for alternative rinse-off compositions, the inventors found that fructan type saccharides, in particular inulin fructans, are suitable as conditioning agents, and suitable as a component for the manufacture of aqueous rinse-off cosmetic compositions that they have desirable conditioning effects and desirable properties. In addition, the inventors surprisingly found that the use of inulin-type fructans allows the total substitution of cationic conditioning polymeric agents (cationic polymers) in conventional aqueous rinse-off cosmetic compositions.

For convenience, in the present the constituents of the rinsing removal compositions according to the present invention are called components. Contrary to this, as mentioned above, the constituents of conventional rinse-off compositions are named ingredients herein. In addition, with respect to the compositions,% (percentage) onwards refers to the percentage by weight (% p). Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to the use of an inulin-type fructan for the production of a rinse-off cosmetic composition, characterized in that the rinse-off composition comprises 0.10 to 10%, preferably 0.5. to 5%, still more preferably 1 to 3%, of inulin-type fructan (weight percentage of dry matter, calculated on the total weight of the rinse-off composition) and is free from (i) cationic polymeric conditioning agents , (ii) terpolymers composed of a monomer consisting of a carboxylic acid containing an α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation, a nonionic monomer carrying a urethane group, and a non-surfactant monomer with monoethylenic unsaturation that is different from the first mentioned monomer (hereinafter referred to briefly as "terpolymers"), and (iii) polysaccharides which are different from inulin-type fructan. In a typical embodiment, the rinsing removal composition is also free from monosaccharides and di- and oligosaccharides which are different from inulin-type fructan, apart from the mono- and disaccharides which they occur naturally in inulin-type fructan. Accordingly, fructose, glucose, sucrose and difructose dianhydride may be present in the rinse removal compositions according to the present invention. Oligosaccharides conventionally refer to saccharide molecules with a degree of polymerization (DP) of up to 10, while polysaccharide refers to saccharide molecules with a DP above 10. Apart from inulin-type fructan, said components of the elimination compositions by rinsing according to the present invention are constituted by one or more ingredients in conventional amounts of conventional rinsing removal compositions with the exception of the above restrictions. The inulin-type fructan can be completely or partially dissolved only in the rinse-off composition, without substantially affecting the type and effectiveness of the conditioning effects of the rinse-off composition. In a preferred embodiment, inulin-type fructan is typically used as a conditioning agent. In a further preferred embodiment, the inulin-type fructan is used as a total substitute for cationic polymeric conditioning agents (cationic polymers) in conventional cosmetic rinse-off compositions. Although the weight ratio of the cationic polymers: inulin-type fructan for this substitution is not critical, the ratio preferably being in the range of 1: 1 to 1: 10. In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for the manufacture of a cosmetic rinse-off composition, characterized in that 0.10 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5%, still more preferably 1 to 3% of a fructan inulin type (% by weight dry matter weight, calculated on the total weight of the rinse off composition), water and one or more other components consisting of one or more ingredients in conventional amounts of conventional rinse-off cosmetic compositions, with the exception of (i) conditioning cationic polymeric agents, (ii) terpolymers as defined below, and (iii) polysaccharides other than inulin-type fructans, are co-mixed. In a typical mode, neither the inulin-type fructan component nor the other components mentioned include monosaccharides or di- and oligosaccharides that are different from inulin-type fructan, apart from the mono- and disaccharides that naturally occur in inulin-type fructan. The process according to the present invention can be carried out according to conventional techniques. The co-mixing of the components can be carried out either in a batch mode or in a continuous process, such as through in-line mixing.

The co-batch mixing can, for example, be carried out as follows: at a pre-set amount of water, the components can be added separately or simultaneously under stirring, and the stirring is continued until a homogeneous composition is obtained. To avoid excessive foaming, the mixture is stirred slowly. Agitation is usually carried out by means of an anchored agitator rotating at a low speed in a reactor only with small mixing diverters. Although the order of addition of the components is not critical, it is recommended, in order to avoid excessive foaming, to follow the order commonly used for the preparation of conventional rinsing removal with the ingredients of interest. Consequently, normally a pre-set amount of water is charged with the components, apart from the foaming surfactants and the thickener. After the homogenization of said mixture, subsequently the surfactant and finally the thickener are added under agitation at a low speed until the mixture is homogeneous. The co-mixing according to the process of the present invention can optionally be carried out by co-mixing one or more components or part of said components with one or more premix compositions containing the remaining components and / or the complementary part. of the forming components, or by co-mixing two or more pre-mix compositions. In the co-mixing process, water is considered as a component, which optionally it can be included partially or totally in one or more of the pre-mixes. The use of a pre-mix can be preferred and beneficial for practical and / or technical reasons. At times it may be beneficial to heat the mixture or pre-mix for the purpose of increasing the solubility of one or more of the components, and / or facilitating co-mixing. The maximum temperature at which a mixture or pre-mix can be heated is known to those of skill in the art or can be easily determined through routine experiments. Also the appropriate apparatus, the manner and duration of agitation to obtain the desired homogeneous mixture are well known in the art or can be determined by those skilled in the art without undue burden through routine experiments. In a third aspect, the present invention relates to cosmetic rinse removal compositions, characterized in that they contain from 0.10 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5%, more preferably from 1 to 3% of an inulin-type fructan (% in percentage by weight of dry matter, calculated on the total weight of the rinse-off composition), water and one or more other components consisting of one or more ingredients in conventional amounts of conventional cosmetic rinse-off compositions, with the exception of (i) cationic polymeric conditioning agents, (ii) terpolymers as defined above and (iii) polysaccharides which are different from inulin-type fructans. In a typical embodiment, the rinse-off cosmetic composition is also free from monosaccharides and di- and oligosaccharides that are different from inulin-type fructan, apart from the mono- and disaccharides that naturally occur in inulin-type fructan. The rinse-off compositions according to the present invention may appear, depending on their composition, as a solution, a mixture of two liquid phases, an emulsion, a suspension. They have an acceptable physical-chemical stability and usually appear in the form of a homogeneous, pourable or free-flowing liquid, such as a hair shampoo, hair conditioner, shampoo for showering, shower gel or foam for bathroom. Fructan is composed of saccharides that consist of polyfructose molecules that may or may not carry a terminal glucose unit. Fructan is subdivided into levan and inulin. Levan-type fructan is composed of polyfructose molecules in which the fructose units are mainly connected to each other by β (2-6) fructosyl-fructose bonds. Levan is synthesized through certain plant species and through certain bacteria. Inulin-type fructan is composed of polyfructose molecules of which the fructose units are exclusively or mainly connected to each other through ß (2-1) fructosyl-fructose bonds. The polyfructose molecules can be linear, that is, when all the fructose units are exclusively connected to each other through ß (2-1) fructosyl-fructose bonds, but they can also be branched, that is, when the fructose units are connected to a certain degree but in less than 50% of each other through ß (2-6) fructosilo-fructose bonds. The polyfructose molecules are represented by the general formulas GFn and Fm, where G represents a unit of glycosyl, F a unit of fructosyl, and n and m are integers indicating the number of fructosyl units in the molecule. The values n + 1 and m refer to a degree of polymerization, represented by DP, and are characteristic of the inulin-type fructan polyfructose molecules. Inulin type fuchsin is well known in the art. It is synthesized through many plant species, which can originate from bacterial activity, can be synthesized enzymatically in vitro, for example from sucrose, and can be obtained through partial hydrolysis of large molecules of inulin of bacterial and plant origin . Inulin fructan naturally occurs as a polydispersed mixture of linear and / or branched polyfructose molecules which is characterized inter alia by the average number of polymerization (in a short average degree) of polymerization indicated as average DP or DP, of the polyfructose molecules. The average PD and DP of fructan type inulin are dependent on the origin of fructan.

Inulin-type fructan composed of molecules with a DP that varies from 2 to 10 conventionally and interchangeably is named oligofructose, fructo-oligosaccharide or inulo-oligosaccharide. Inulin-type fructan composed of molecules with a DP that varies from 2 to about 100,000 is commonly called inulin. Accordingly, inulin-type fructan refers herein to inulin and oligofructose. The inulin of vegetable origin has a DP that varies from 2 to approximately 200, mainly from 2 to approximately 100. The inulin is mainly isolated from roots of chicory (Cichorium intybus), tubers of Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) and Dahlia, and the head (pineapple) of the blue agave. In the native form, that is, without a treatment to increase or reduce the DP, the inulin of chicory has a DP that varies from 2 to approximately 70 and an average DP of around to about 12; the inulin artichoke of J. has a DP that varies from 2 to approximately 40 and an average DP of approximately 6; the dahlia inulin an average DP of approximately 15 to approximately 20; and agave inulin with an average DP of about 14 to about 18. The inulin of chicory is slightly branched (containing about 2 to 5% branching) while the agave inulin is highly branched.

Inulin of bacterial origin is highly branched normally and has a high DP, commonly ranging from about 10,000 to about 100,000. The enzymatically synthesized inulin-type fructan mainly has a low DP of less than 10, usually a DP that varies from 3 to 5. The oligofructose obtained through partial hydrolysis of inulin molecules usually has a DP that varies from 2 to about 9. commercial scale, inulin is mainly made from roots of chicory. The chicory inulin, for example, is available as a spray-dried powder in various grades of ORAFTI S.A. (Belgium) under the trade name of RAFTILINE®. The typical RAFTILINE® grades include ST (= standard grade with a DP that varies from 2 to approximately 70 and an average DP of 10 to 12, and which contains a total of about 8% glucose, fructose and sucrose) GR (= standard grade in the form of a granulated powder), LS (= low sugar degree with an average DP of 10 to 12, but containing in total less than 1% glucose, fructose and sucrose), HP (= high grade) performance, ie long chain inulin with a DP ranging from 10 to approximately 70 and an average DP of at least about 23, which is essentially free of glucose, fructose and sucrose).

The agave inulin with an average DP of around 14 to 16 is, for example, available under the trade name of GAVEDIET® PR from Industrias Humibrí Azul S, A de C.V., (Mexico). The oligofructose can be obtained on an industrial scale through partial hydrolysis (acid or enzymatic) of inulin of vegetable or bacterial origin, or through in vitro enzymatic synthesis according to well-known techniques. The oligofructose obtained through partial, enzymatic hydrolysis of chicory inulin, for example, is available in various grades from ORAFTI S.A. (Belgium), under the trade name RAFTILOSE®. Typical grades include RAFTILOSE® P95 (spray-dried powder with approximately 97% dry matter (dm) containing> 93% (in dm) of oligofructose with a DP from 2 to 9, mainly from 2 to 7, and at most about 7% total glucose, fructose and sucrose), RAFTILOSE® L95 (aqueous liquid containing approximately 75% dry matter with a composition dm corresponding to one of RAFTILOSE® P95), and RAFTILOSE® L85 (aqueous liquid containing about 75% dry matter containing about 85% (in dm) of DP oligofructose ranging from 2 to about 9, mainly from 2 to about 7, and in total about 5 to 10% of glucose and fructose, and about 5 to 9% sucrose The oligofructose with a DP of 3 to about 5 obtained through in vitro enzymatic synthesis is, for example, obtained under the commercial names of ACTILIGHT® and NEOSUGAR® from Béghin-Meije, (France / Japan), and Nutraflora® from GTC, USA. All mentioned inulin fructans as well as their commercial grades are suitable for use in accordance with the present invention. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, inulin-type fructan is oligofructose, preferably oligofructose with a DP ranging from 2 to 9, usually from 2 to 7 or 3 to 5. The highly preferred oligofructose is obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis of inulin of chicory, for example commercial grade products available under the trade name RAFTILOSE® from ORAFTI SA (Belgium). In another preferred embodiment of the invention, inulin-type fructan is inulin with a DP ranging from 2 to about 200, more preferably inulin with a DP ranging from 2 to about 100, normally inulin of plant origin with a DP that varies from 2 to about 100. In a highly preferred embodiment of the invention, inulin-type fructan is chicory inulin. Preferred grades of inulin according to the present invention include chicory inulin with a DP scale of 2 to about 70, for example the commercial products RAFTILINE® ST, GR and LS, as well as long chain chicory inulin with a DP scale from about 10 to about 70 and a DP average from 20 to 25, for example the commercial product "RAFTILINE® HP (RAFTILINE®: trade name of ORAFTI SA, Belgium.) In a further preferred embodiment, the inulin fructan is Jerusalem artichoke inulin or Dalia inulin. Still another preferred embodiment of the invention, inulin-type fructan is a branched inulin, for example agave inulin, typically blue agave inulin with an average DP of about 14 to 18, such as the commercial product GAVEDIET® PR (trade name of Industrias Colibrí Azul SA, Mexico.) These other different components mentioned by the ingredients of conventional rinsing removal compositions and their commonly used amounts are well known to those skilled in the art.Alternatively, suitable ingredients and suitable amounts of the same for particular rinsing removal compositions according to the present invention can be select routinely and determine conventional ingredients by those skilled in the art without undue burden. Typically these conventional ingredients comprise, for example, apart from water, one or more compounds of one or more of the types including detergents, cleaning agents, and foam improvers, such as soaps, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; foam stabilizers; conservatives; antibacterial agents; stabilization agents; agents that inhibit color deterioration of rinsing removal compositions; sequestering agents; builders, thickeners; agents of color; opacifying agents; and perfume agents. Conventional ingredients are well known in the art, and for example are described in WO 02/055034, WO 02/055036 and US 4,364,837. The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples.

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of rinse off compositions of hair shampoo General procedure: the rinsing removal compositions according to the present invention with different inulin-type fructan grades are prepared by conventional techniques and equipment, as follows: - water, an inulin fructan, glyceryl cocoate of PEG-7 and PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate are mixed and homogenized, forming a pre-mix 1 (phase A), - separately from premix 1, all other components are mixed and homogenized, forming a premix 2 (phase B), - then, the premix 1 and premix 2 are combined and homogenized, and the pH is adjusted to the desired value (phase C), forming a shampoo for the hair that can be poured. According to said general procedure also comparative hair shampoo compositions have been prepared wherein the inulin-type fructan is substituted either by saccharides which are different from inulin-type fructan, or through a cationic polymer, ie polyquaternium-10 ( UCARE® Polymer JR-400, trade name of Amerchol, USA). The compositions of the hair shampoos prepared are indicated in Table 1 below.

TABLE 1 % ammonium lauryl sulphate (primary surfactants) (Ufarol AM30: trade name of UNGER, Norway) 7% of cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (secondary surfactants) (Qovaq HSLS: trademark of GOVA, Belgium) 4% Saboderm® SHO (= 35% glyceryl cocoate PEG-7, 35% hydrogenated glyceryl palmate PEG-200, 30% water) (thickener and foaming agent) (Saboderm®: trade name of SABO , Italy) 1% Phenochem®: (phenoxyethanol + methyl-, ethyl-, propyl, butylparaben) (preservative), (Phenochem®, trade name of SHARON, Israel) + conditioning agent (% as indicated), is any of: - fructan type inulin or - cationic polymer, polyquaternium 10 (Ucare® Polymer JR-400, trade name Amerchol, USA) or - saccharide different from fructan type inulin, + citric acid, quantity to reach a desired pH of 5.5 + water, amount to complete the composition at 100%.

EXAMPLE 2 Comparison of shampoo rinse removal compositions for hair The foaming of compositions prepared in Example 1 is analyzed by the following general method: 1 liter of shampoo in a 5 liter beaker, nitrogen is blown at a pre-set rate for 30 seconds, and the foam formed is measured (height in centimeters of the foam). The shampoos examined and the results are indicated in Table 2 below.

TABLE 2 *: example compares ivo: fructan type inulin replaced by polyquaternium- 10 0.5%.

From the results what is observed is that the compositions of shampoo in which the polyquaternium conditioning agent 10 has been completely replaced by a fructan type inulin, continue to maintain good foaming properties, certainly at a concentration of 5%, and for certain fructans even up to a % concentration.

EXAMPLE 3 The functionality of various elimination compositions by rinsed according to example 1, it is examined through a panel of proof. A classification is given based on a visual and sensory evaluation of the treated hair. The results are given in table 3.

TABLE 3 *: comparative ST: Raftiline® ST (trade name, Orafti SA, Belgium) P95: Raftilose® P95 (trade name, Orafti SA, Belgium) Raftisweet®: Raftisweet® F85 / 75 (an 85% fructose syrup / 15% of glucose with a dry weight of 75%) (trade name, Orafti SA, Belgium) Polyquaternium-10: Ucare® Polymer JR-400; trade name, Amerchol USA Maltodextrin (1): Maltrin QD M440: trade name of Grain Processing Corp. [GPC, USA] for maltodextrin of maltodextrin of DE 5 (2): Glucidex 19D: trade name of Roquettes Frères (France) for the maltodextrin of DE 19 Legends of the scores: 0: normal, neutral; +1: good; +2: better; +3: very good; -1: bad; (and between the scores).

It has been found that glucose, fructose, sucrose and maltodextrins have no effect as long as inulin fructan provides, in general, desirable conditioning effects, particularly good dry sensation and volume.

EXAMPLE 4 Preparation of the rinse off compositions of hair shampoo According to the general procedure of Example 1, the shampoo compositions are prepared containing fructan type inulin or cationic polymer * polyquaternium 10 (*: comparative). The shampoo compositions are as follows: 30% ammonium lauryl sulfate (primary surfactants) (Ufarol AM30: trade name of UNGER Norway) 7% cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (secondary surfactants) (Qovaq HSLS: trademark of GOVA , Belgium) 4% Saboderm SHO: trade name of SABO, Italy (= 35% glyceryl decocoate PEG-7, 35% hydrogenated glyceryl palmate PEG-200, 30% water) (thickener and foaming agent) 1% Phenochem®: (phenoxyethanol + methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butylparaben), (Phenochem®, trade name of SHARON, Israel) 0. 3% yogurt powder (Yogurtene®, trade name QUEST, RU) 0.2% PEG-14 M (Polyox®, trade name of Union Carbide) 0.3% bishydroxyethyl biscetylmalonamide (Questamid® H, trade name of QUEST, RU) 0.5% Apricot kernel oil (Henry Lamotte, Germany) 0.15% casein peptide natureine (QUEST, RU) 0.2% natureine rice peptide (QUEST, UK) 0.5% grape fruit vegebios (RU) SOLABIA, France) 0.5% white nettle glycosylate (SOLABIA, France) 0.5% lemon glycolisate (SOLABIA, France) + (as indicated in table 4 below) the inulin-type fructan Raftiline® GR (ORAFTI SA, Belgium ) or polyquaternium-10 (Ucare® Polymer JR-400, trade name Amerchol, USA) + water (amount to complete the composition at 100%). The functionality of the rinsing removal compositions are examined and classified as indicated in Example 3. The results are given in Table 4 below.

TABLE 4 *: Comparative Legends of the scores: 0: normal, neutral; +1 good; (and between the scores). The results show that by complete replacement of a cationic polymer conditioning agent with an inulin-type fructan, particularly chicory inulin with a DP ranging from 2 to about 70 and an average DP of about 10-12, rinsing-off compositions it can be formulated that they are suitable as a shampoo, having among other things good foaming properties and good conditioning properties. Very suitable inulin-type fructuan concentrations are from 1 to 5%, optimally about 2%.

EXAMPLE 5 Preparation and evaluation of hair shampoos A hair shampoo according to the present invention and a corresponding conventional composition, referred to, respectively, as shampoo A and shampoo B, are prepared through the general procedure outlined in example 1 with compositions that are provided in table 5. later. Lactic acid is used instead of citric acid to achieve the desired pH.

TABLE 5 Shampoo composition *: Comparative (1): Trade name ORAFTI S.A., Belgium (2): Ucare® Polymer JR-400; commercial name of Amerchol, USA (3): Polyox®; trade name of Union Carbide, USA (4): Trade name of Luzi, Switzerland The functionality of the shampoos according to the invention is evaluated in a "half-head test" as compared to a corresponding shampoo composition containing the polycationic cationic polyquaternium-10 in place of inulin-type fructan. The evaluation is performed as a double blind study with a group of 10 subjects that are selected to include a range of hair lengths and styles, as indicated in Table 6 below.

TABLE 6 Hair types of panel members The tests are "half-head tests", ie tests where half of the subjects receive a shampoo A on the left side of the head and shampoo B on the right side, and the second half of the subjects receives the Shampoo applied on opposite sides. The scoring system is based on a scale of 0 to 100. Higher scores indicate better performance, with the exception of wet hair feeling. For the latter, the optimal score is 50, with a feeling with a greasy over-conditioning attributed to a score of 0, and a feeling with an over-wash with a score of 100. The scores for each of the parameters assessed are given later in Table 7, along with a value calculated average. These average values have been graded on a radar chart diagram, shown in Figure 1 below, allowing easy comparisons.

TABLE 7 Shampoo Ratings Shampoo A Head No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Average Foam volume 80 80 60 80 60 80 80 80 60 90 75 Foam texture 70 80 70 80 60 70 80 80 60 60 69 Capacity of 100 80 80 80 80 100 80 80 80 80 84 Rinsing Untangled in 100 80 100 100 100 80 100 100 80 80 92 Wet Wet combing 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Sensation of 40 70 50 70 50 30 30 30 30 50 45 wet hair Dry combed 100 100 100 70 90 100 100 80 80 100 92 Static 100 100 100 100 50 80 100 100 70 40 84 Brightness (brightness) 100 100 80 90 100 100 100 100 100 100 97 Brightness (grade) 100 100 100 80 100 100 100 100 100 100 98 Sensation of 90 60 70 70 60 90 60 60 70 60 69 dry hair Volume / body 80 70 80 70 60 70 80 80 60 60 71 Handiness 80 70 80 70 60 70 80 80 60 60 71 Shampoo B * Head No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Average Foam volume 70 80 50 80 70 60 80 80 70 90 73 Foam texture 60 70 60 70 70 60 70 80 70 70 68 Capacity of 100 80 80 80 80 90 90 80 80 80 80 83 Rinsing Untangled in 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 70 100 97 Wet Wet combing 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Sensation of 40 80 50 70 50 30 30 40 40 50 48 wet hair Dry combed 100 80 100 70 90 100 100 80 80 100 90 Static 100 80 100 80 50 80 100 100 80 60 83 Brightness (luminosity) 100 100 80 80 80 100 100 100 100 100 94 Brightness (grade) 100 100 100 70 100 100 100 100 100 100 97 Sensation of 90 40 60 50 70 70 50 70 60 70 63 dry hair Volume / body 80 80 80 70 60 60 80 80 50 70 71 Handling 80 80 80 70 60 60 80 80 50 70 71 (*: Comparative) Figure 1 shows a radar chart diagram of the evaluation of the "half-head test" in a group of 10 subjects of hair shampoo containing inulin or polyquatemium-10. From Figure 1 it is noted that inulin-type fructan is suitable for the preparation of effective rinse-off compositions and is suitable for completely replacing the cationic polymeric conditioning agents in rinsing-off compositions. In addition, Figure 1 shows that there is very little difference in functionality between rinsing removal hair compositions containing fructan type inulin or polycationic cationic polymer-10. From the above examples it is obvious that inulin-type fructan can be used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions of rinse removal for the treatment of hair and / or skin according to the present invention, and that said compositions are effective rinse-off cosmetic compositions having a functionality that is comparable to that of a conventional standard composition containing the polyquaternium -10 cationic polymer. In addition, inulin-type fructan appears to be suitable as a total substitute for cationic conditioning polymeric agents in cosmetic rinse-off compositions. A higher amount (% by weight) of fructan type inulin than that of the cationic polymers can be used to obtain comparable functionality. However, said higher amount of fructan type inulin compared to cationic polymers is compensated through several advantages that result from the use of fructan type inulin instead of cationic compounds. Indeed, the rinse off compositions according to the present invention are free from the desirable cationic polymers, many of which are biodegradable, have undesired eutrophic effects, and / or are to a certain degree cytotoxic. Unlike cationic polymers, inulin-type fructan is non-toxic, easily biodegradable, and neither fructan nor degradation products have eutrophic effects. An additional advantage of the use of fructan type inulin lies in the availability of several grades, which allow to select without an undue burden through routine experiments, inulin-type fructan plus suitable for the proposed use or proposed composition, for example considering the DP scale, the average DP and / or the solubility in aqueous medium or aqueous medium for rinsing off. In addition, the availability of various grades of inulin-type fructan with different DP scales allows for slightly adjusting the viscosity of the rinse-off composition by selecting the grade of inulin-type fructan that is used in the rinse-off composition. An even further advantage lies in the fact that the various commercial grades of inulin fructan are readily available at an affordable cost and because they are a renewable source material.

Claims (24)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. - The use of an inulin-type fructan for the preparation of a cosmetic rinse-off composition for the treatment of hair and / or skin, wherein the rinse-out composition, apart from the conventional ingredients of rinsing-off compositions in conventional amounts, it comprises from 0. 0 to 0% of the inulin-type fructan which is oligofructose or inulin (% by weight percent dry matter, calculated on the total weight of the rinse-off composition), and is free from ( i) conditioning cationic polymeric agents, (ii) terpolymers composed of a monomer consisting of a carboxylic acid containing an α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation, a nonionic monomer carrying a urethane group, and a non-surfactant monomer with monoethylenic unsaturation which is different from the first mentioned monomer (hereinafter referred to as "terpolymers"), and (iii) polysaccharides which are different the fructan type inulin.

2. The use claimed in claim 1, wherein the rinsing removal composition is also free from monosaccharides and di- and oligosaccharides which are different from inulin-type fructan, apart from fructose, glucose, sucrose and difructose dianhydride

3. - The use claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the inulin-type fructan is used as a conditioning agent.

4. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the inulin-type fructan is used as a complete substitute for cationic polymeric conditioning agents in conventional rinse-off compositions.

5. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the rinse-off composition contains inulin-type fructan in a concentration of 1 to 10%.

6. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the fructan type inulin is oligofructose.

7. The use claimed in claim 6, wherein the oligofructose has a DP that varies from 2 to 9.

The use claimed in claim 6, wherein the oligofructose has a DP that varies from 3 to 5.

9. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the fructan type inulin is inulin.

10. The use claimed in claim 9, wherein the inulin has a DP that varies from 2 to 100.

11. The use claimed in claim 9, wherein the inulin-type fructan is chicory inulin. with a DP that varies from 2 to 70.

12. The use claimed in claim 9, wherein the fructan type inulin is inulin from agave, Jerusalem artichoke or dahlia.

13. - Process for the preparation of a rinse-off cosmetic composition, characterized in that 0.10 to 10% by weight (calculated on the total weight of the rinse-off composition) of an inulin fructan which is oligofructose or inulin which is defined in any of claims 6 to 12, water and one or more other components constituted by one or more ingredients in conventional amounts of conventional rinse-off compositions, with the exception of (i) conditioning cationic polymeric agents, (ii) terpolymers that are defined in claim 1, and (iii) polysaccharides that are different from inulin-type fructan, are co-mixed.

14. The process according to claim 13, further characterized in that neither the inulin-type fructan component nor the other components mentioned include monosaccharides or di- and oligosaccharides that are different from inulin-type fructan, apart from fructose, glucose, sucrose and difructose dianhydride.

15. The process according to claim 13 or 14, further characterized in that the rinse-off composition contains the inulin-type fructan at a concentration of 1 to 10%.

16. The method according to any of claims 13 to 15, further characterized in that it involves the co-mixing of one or more components or part of said components with one or more premix compositions containing the components and / or the complementary part of the forming components, or co-mixing of two or more pre-mixing compositions.

17.- Cosmetic rinse-off cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains 0.10 to 10% by weight (calculated on the total weight of the rinse-off composition) of an inulin-type fructan which is oligofructose or inulin which is defined in any of claims 6 to 12, water and one or more other components consisting of one or more ingredients in conventional amounts of conventional rinse-off compositions, with the exception of (i) conditioning cationic polymeric agents, (ii) terpolymers that are defined in claim 1, and (iii) polysaccharides that are different from inulin-type fructan.

18. The rinse-off cosmetic composition according to claim 17, further characterized in that the rinse-out composition is also free of monosaccharides and di- and oligosaccharides that are different from inulin-type fructan, apart from fructose, glucose, sucrose and difructose dianhydride.

19. The cosmetic rinse-off composition according to any of claims 17 or 18, further characterized in that the rinse-off composition contains the inulin-type fructan at a concentration of 1 to 10%.

20. The cosmetic rinse-off composition according to any of claims 17 to 19, characterized in addition, because the inulin fructan is oligofructose defined in any of claims 6 to 8.

21. The rinse-out cosmetic composition according to any of claims 17 to 19, further characterized in that the inulin-type fructan is inulin. which is defined in any of claims 9 to 12.

22. The use of an inulin-type fructan in a rinse-off cosmetic composition for the treatment of hair and / or skin, wherein the inulin-type fructan is oligofructose or Inulin defined in any of claims 6 to 12, and used as a rinse off conditioner.

23. The use claimed in claim 22, wherein the inulin-type fructan is used as a complete substitute for cationic polymeric conditioning agents in conventional rinse-off compositions.

24. The use claimed in claim 22 or 23, wherein the rinsing removal composition is a composition defined in any of claims 1 and 17 to 21.