MXPA06005252A - Cosmetic compositions and methods for reducing the appearance of pores - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions and methods for reducing the appearance of pores

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Publication number
MXPA06005252A
MXPA06005252A MXPA/A/2006/005252A MXPA06005252A MXPA06005252A MX PA06005252 A MXPA06005252 A MX PA06005252A MX PA06005252 A MXPA06005252 A MX PA06005252A MX PA06005252 A MXPA06005252 A MX PA06005252A
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MX
Mexico
Prior art keywords
composition
pore
pores
appearance
composition according
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MXPA/A/2006/005252A
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Spanish (es)
Inventor
Raymond Faryniarz Joseph
Nicolaas Gerard De Mul Marc
Elizabeth Knaggs Helen
Edward Marriott Robert
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Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa Division Of Conopco Inc
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Application filed by Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa Division Of Conopco Inc filed Critical Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa Division Of Conopco Inc
Publication of MXPA06005252A publication Critical patent/MXPA06005252A/en

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Abstract

Cosmetic compositions and methods for reducing the appearance of pores are provided. The compositions are based on a silicone elastomer or a water soluble or dispersible polymer and light scattering particles, and have a specified unique rheological profile. The inventive compositions and methods deliver an improvement in appearance of pores of at least about 2, preferably at least about 4, as measured by the Pore Ruler. Pores appear less significant and smaller in size, while natural skin tone is maintained.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS TO REDUCE THE APPEARANCE OF POROS FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and method for cosmetically reducing the appearance of pores of the skin, while maintaining the natural skin tone and minimizing the feeling of stickiness, viscosity and tightness of the skin.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The ultimate goal of a cosmetic composition to reduce the appearance of pores, as well as that of any cosmetic product or method, is a satisfied consumer. Many cosmetic products advertise benefits for facial pores. However, it is often difficult to discern the degree to which a benefit is delivered and, even if it is delivered, undesirable sensory effects accompany the benefits. Undesirable sensory effects include stickiness, viscosity, skin tightness and opaque effects of the skin. Make-up cosmetics to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which employ silicone elastomers in combination with spherical particles, are described in EP 1 136 064 AUS 6, 027,738 refers to anhydrous makeup comprising silicone gel, containing organosilicon elastomer dispersed in silicone compatible vehicle and a silicone oil base. EP 0 826 364 A describes an oily cosmetic powder containing silicone elastomers. The need remains for commercially acceptable compositions to reduce the appearance of pores, while maintaining the natural tone of the skin, but which does not impart stickiness, viscosity, skin tightness or opaque or whitening effects of the skin.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE NONDION Cosmetic compositions have been developed that produce visible pore size reduction while maintaining the natural appearance of the skin. The inventive compositions are characterized by low opacity, low gloss and a slimming rheology with cutting with a relatively large normal force at high cut. The compositions according to the present invention include: (a) 0.01 to 1.0% w / w of a water-based polymer or 0.01 to 30% w / w of a cross-linked polysiloxane elastomer; (b) 0.1% to 25% w / w of light scattering particles, i.e., dispersed solid particles; and (c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle; having: a viscosity at room temperature of 1 0 Pa.s to 1 Pa.s at a cutting speed of 1 1 / s; and 0.01 Pa.s at 0.3 Pa.s at 10,000 1 / s; an opacity of 3% to 6%; a brightness of 60 degrees up to 1 0 g. or.; a normal force of up to 0.1 N at a cutting speed of 10,000 1 / s; and which results in an improved facial pore appearance of at least 2 as measured by the Pore Rule. The improvement can be as high as at least 4 as measured by the Pore Rule.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention fulfills the needs left unfulfilled by the prior art, by providing compositions and methods for cosmetically reducing the appearance of facial pores. The present invention is directed to compositions that include a silicone elastomer or water-based polymer and light scattering particles dispersed therein. The compositions form a layer with structures within it on application to the skin and produce an improvement in pore appearance of at least 2 as measured by the Pore Rule (defined herein below). The inventive compositions are characterized by slimming rheology by cutting with a relatively large normal force at high cut. To avoid the feeling of viscosity, the inventive compositions have a viscosity at room temperature (25 ° C) of 1 0 Pa.s to 100 Pa.s at a cutting speed of 1 1 / s; and 0.01 Pa.s at 0.3 Pa.s at 1 00.00 1 / s; as well as a normal force (Fn) of up to 0.1 N at a cutting speed of 1 0, 000 1 / s. To intensify the natural skin tone, the inventive compositions have an opacity of 3% to 6%. The gloss of the compositions, at 60 degrees, is up to 10 g. or . (units of brightness). All quantities are by weight of the final composition, unless otherwise specified.
As used herein, the term "comprising" means that it includes, is made of, consists of, consists of and / or consists essentially of. The term "skin" as used herein, includes skin over or on the face, mouth, neck, chest, back, arms, hands, legs and scalp. As used herein, pores of the skin are defined as openings or channels on the surface of the skin. More particularly, a pore is an opening for an oily sebaceous gland. Pores are microscopic openings in the skin that provide a way for oil or sebum to lubricate and protect the surface of the skin. The glands enlarge during puberty and there is a concomitant increase in the amount of oil produced. Consumers report that their pores get larger to handle the increased output, although the true mechanisms that control the pores remain unknown at present. The overall appearance of pores depends on the depth and diameter of the channels as well as the surrounding skin color, texture and periodicity of the pores.
POLYMER Film-forming polymers are used in the compositions according to the present invention to form a film layer on the pores when they are deposited on the skin.
Elastomeric polymers According to a first embodiment of the present invention, cross-linked silicone elastomers are employed. A cross-linked silicone elastomer forms a film over pores to level the appearance of the pores. The cross-linked silicone elastomer also imparts silkiness to the skin. Silicone elastomers are mixtures of highly crosslinked siloxane polymers (crosslinked polysiloxane elastomers) and silicone oils. The supplier sources include GE Silicones (Waterford, NY) and Dow Corning (Midland, MI). The elastomers are preferably included in an amount of 0.01% to 30% w / w, preferably 1% to 10% w / w. Most preferably, to assist in dispersing the elastomer uniformly in the formulations, the elastomer is included in combination with additional silicone oils (cyclomethicones and dimethicones). In that case, the silicone oil is included in an amount from about 0% to about 80%. Additionally, the oil imparts good skin feel and emolliency.
TABLE 1 . Silicone elastomer materials Name Manufacturer Name commercial INCI KSG- 5 GE Silicones Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross polymer KSG-16 GE Silicones Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross polymer KSG-18 GE Silicones Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross polymer SFE818 GE Silicones Cetearyl dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross polymer SFE839 GE Silicones Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross polymer Velvesil 125 GE Silicones Cross polymer C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone Gransil GCM Grant Industries Polysilicone-11 Gransil DMG-6 Grant Industries Polysilicone-11 Gransil PM Grant Industries Polysilicone-11 Gel 9011 Dow Corning PEG-12 cross-linked dimethicone 9040 polymer Dow Corning 9094 dimethicone cross-linked polymer Dow Corning 9045 dimethicone cross-linked polymer Dow Corning Dimethicone Crossed Polymer 9506 Dow Corning Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crossed Polymer 9509 Dow Corning Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross polymer; C12- 14 paret-12 9546 Dow Corning Dimethicone cross-linked polymer; cross-linked dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone polymer; Dimethiconol Trefil E-506 S Dow Corning Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross polymer Water-Based Polymer Film-forming polymers, according to a second embodiment of the present invention, are selected in such a manner as to reduce the appearance of facial pores, while minimizing the perception of stickiness, viscosity and tightness that may be present. Experienced with certain compositions.
To avoid the application of a film that is too sticky in the facial pores, the inventive compositions do not include more than 10% w / w of film-forming polymer.
TABLE 2. Water-based polymer film forming materials Name Name of INCI Commercial supplier Luviform Soft Acrylic copolymer BASF Luviform FA130 Copolymer of PVM / MA BASF Eastman Copolymer of diglycol / CHDM / isophthalates / SIP Eastman AQ38S Chemical Eastman AQ48 Diglycol Copolymer / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Eastman Ultra Chemical Eastman Diglycol Copolymer / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Eastman AQ55S Chemical Aquaflex FX-64 Isobutylene / ethylmaleimide / hydroxyethyl ISP copolymer maleimide Gafquat 755N Polyquatemium-11 ISP Gantrez S-97 2-butenedioic acid, polymer with methoxyiethene ISP BF PVP K-90 PVP ISP PVP? / A W-735 Copolymer of PVP / VA ISP Styleze 2000 Copolymer of VP / acrylates / lauryl methacrylate ISP Styleze CC-10 Copolymer of VP / DMAPA acrylates ISP Styleze W-20 Polyquatemium-55 ISP Amaze XT Modified Starch National Starch Flexan 130 Polyester Sodium Starch National Starch Dermacryl LT Acrylate / octylacrylamide Copolymer National Starch Avalur AC-120 Noveon Avalure Acrylate Copolymer UR-425 Polyurethane Dispersion-2 Noveon Avalure AC-118 Noveon Acrylate Copolymer Avalure AC-122 Noveon Avalure Acrylate Copolymer UR-445 Noveon Fixate G-100 Polyurethane Dispersion AMP-Acrylates / Allyl Methalate Copolymer Noveon Silsoft Surface Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylate OSi Specialties Film Former Jagua C162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Rhodia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar HP-105 Hydroxypropyl guar Rhodia PART I LIGHT DISPERSION CULMS The light scattering particles according to the present invention may be spherical or non-spherical particles of less than 30 microns in size, preferably 0.200 to 20 microns, for optimum dispersion. The light scattering particles can be pigments, matting or fillers. Metal oxides (for example, titanium dioxide), mineral oxides (for example, silica, mica (for example, mica coated with titanium), talc), nylon and polymethyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer (for example, trademark GANZPEARL, PMMA) are examples of suitable light scattering. The particles can be surface treated or surface coated. The amount of light scattering particles in the cosmetic composition is preferably in the range of 0. 1% to 25% w / w, more preferably 0.5% to 10% w / w, most preferably 1% to 5% p / p, depending on the light scattering properties of the particular material. The light scattering particles and the polymers are present in the composition in a weight ratio of 1: 1 0000 to 1 0000: 1 light scattering particle: polymer, preferably 1: 1 to 1: 1 00. The light scattering particles can be dispersible in water or dispersible in oil. For example, the titanium dioxide dispersible in water, according to the invention, is micronized titanium dioxide, the particles of which are uncoated or which are covered with a material to impart a hydrophilic surface property to the particles. Examples of such materials include aluminum oxide and aluminum silicate. Titanium dioxide dispersible in oil, according to the invention, is micronized titanium dioxide, the particles of which exhibit a hydrophobic surface property.
TABLE 3. Light scattering particles Name Manufacturer Name of INCI Cab-o-silMR L-90 Cabot Silica Cab-o-silMR M-5 Cabot Silica Cab-o-silMR TS-720 Cabot Silica AerosilMR R974 Degussa Silica dimethyl sililato FK500LS Degussa Silica Sipernat® 500 LS Degussa Silica TOSP2000B GE Silicones Polimetilsilsesquioxano Tospearl® 120A GE Silicones Polimetilsilsesquioxano Tospearl® 130A GE Silicones Polymethylsilsquioxane Tospearl® 145A GE Silicones Polymethylsilsesquioxane BPA-5I3 Kobo Polymethyl methacrylate BPA-5I5 Kobo Polymethyl methacrylate BTD-401 Kobo Dioxide titanium DSPCS / 3H-12 Kobo Silica / EMA / PMMA-isopropyl Ti stearate ES-830 Kobo Polymethyl methacrylate Mica S-I2 Kobo Mica MSS-500 / 3H Kobo Silica TP-145A Kobo Silicone resin Dry-FloMR AF National Starch Modified cornstarch Tapioca Puré National Starch Tapioca starch Cosmo-55 Presperse Silica Ganzpearl R GM Presperse PMMA 0830 GanzpearlMR GMP Presperse PMMA 0820 Ganzpearf R GMX Presperse PMMA 0610 GanzpearlMR GMX Presperse PMMA GanzpearlMR GPA- Presperse Nylon-12 550 GanzpearlMR GS Presperse Styrene 0605 GanzpearlMR PS-8F Presperse Styrene Copolymer / DVB MCP-45 Presperse Mica; poly (alkyl acrylate) Micro-Ace P-2-030 Presperse Talc; Methicone Micro-poly 220L Presperse Polyethylene Micro-poly 250S Presperse Polyethylene Rose Tale Presperse Talco SM-1000 Presperse Mica; silicic anhydride SM-2000 Presperse Mica; silicic anhydride SM-4000 Presperse Mica; silicic anhydride SP-29 UVS Presperse Bismuth oxychloride; sericite; silicic anhydride Tale Micro-Ace P-2 Presperse Talc Velvet Veil 310 Présperse Mica; silicon anhydride SunPMMA-S Sunjin PMMA Sunsil R-130H Sunjin Silica Micro TiO2 MT- Tri-K Titanium Dioxide 100SA Neosil R CT11 Silica OPTIONAL INGREDIENTS Various types of active ingredients may be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Assets are defined as skin or hair benefit agents other than emollients and different from ingredients that merely improve the physical characteristics of the composition. Although not limited to this category, general examples include sunscreens, skin lightening agents, tanning agents, niacinamide, vitamins and antioxidants. Sunscreens include those materials commonly used to block ultraviolet light. Exemplary compounds are para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinnamate and salicylate derivatives. For example, octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, ParsolMR MCX andBEnzophenone-3MR, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen used can vary depending on the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation. Another preferred optional ingredient is selected from essential fatty acids (EFAs), ie, those fatty acids, which are essential for the plasma membrane formation of all cells. In keratinocytes, EFA deficiency makes the cells hyperproliferative. The EFA complementation corrects this. EFAs also enhance the lipid biosynthesis of epidermis and provide lipids for epidermal barrier formation. The essential fatty acids are preferably chosen from linoleic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, homo-gamma-linolenic acid, columbinic acid, eicosa- (n-6, 9, 13) -trienoic acid, arachidonic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, Timnodonic acid, hexaenoic acid and mixtures thereof. Other optional ingredients may include herbal extracts, anti-oxidants, coloring agents and perfumes. The amounts of these materials can vary anywhere from 0.001% to 20% w / w.
An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier, to provide either a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (H LB) of the emulsifier employed.
COSMICALLY ACCEPTABLE VEHICLE The composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acetachable vehicle to act as a diluent, dispersant or carrier for the active components in the composition, in order to facilitate its distribution when the composition is applied. to the skin or hair. Vehicles other than or in addition to water may include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. An especially preferred non-aqueous carrier is a polydimethyl siloxane and / or a polydimethyl phenyl siloxane. Other preferred non-aqueous carriers are cyclic polydimethyl siloxanes, such as octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane. The silicones of this invention can be those with viscosities ranging anywhere from 10 to 1,000,000 centistokes at 25 ° C. Mixtures of low and high viscosity silicones are especially desirable. These silicones are available from the General Electric Company under the trademarks VicasilM R, SE and SF and from the Dow Corning Company under the series 200 and 550. The amounts of silicone which can be used in the compositions of this invention vary anywhere. from 5 to 95% p / p. A humectant can be included in the inventive compositions to deliver a moisturizing benefit to the skin. Suitable humectants are polyhydric alcohols and include, but are not limited to glycerol (a.k.a. glycerin). Non-glycerin humectants, which may be added herein, include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose and hexanetriol. The humectants, such as glycerol and sorbitol, are known as excellent humectants for skin, scalp and hair. See, for example, WO 91 1 171, WO 92 1 921 6, WO 92 1 9275 and US 5,858,340. The humectant capacities of these ingredients are concentration dependent. If the inventive compositions include a humectant, it is included at a concentration of at least 1% w / w. In general, the concentration of humectant is in the range of 1% to 90% w / w, preferably from 1% to 15% w / w, to optimize the skin's moisturizing benefits and plasticizing effects in the composition. The most preferred humectants are glycerol and sorbitol because of their low cost and high efficiency. In water-based compositions according to the present invention, a thickener is optional but preferred. The thickeners are used in the inventive composition in an amount of up to about 2% w / w. Examples of suitable thickeners are listed in the table below.
TABLE 4. Thickeners and rheological additives Trade name Name of INCI Supplier Carbopolt 2020 Carbomer Noveon KeltrolMR CG Xanthan gum CP Kelco Aristoflex R AVC Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer from Clariant ammonium VP Structure ZEAMR Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate National Starch CelquatMR SC-230M Polyquaternium-10 National Starch In water-based compositions according to the present invention, a neutralizing agent is optional, but is preferably included to neutralize the fatty acids, thereby building the viscosity and stabilizing the emulsion structure. Suitable neutralizing agents include, but are not limited to, triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide and amino methyl propanol ethanolamine. The neutralizing agent is preferably included in an amount of 0% to about 5% w / w, most preferably in an amount of 0.05% up to 1% w / w.
USE OF THE COMPOSITION The composition according to the invention is primarily intended as a product for topical application to human skin, especially as an agent for reducing the appearance of facial pores. In use, a small amount of the composition, for example from 1 to 5 ml (milliliters), is applied to exposed areas of the skin or hair using the hand or fingers or a suitable device. In accordance with the present invention, after a single application, the compositions of the present invention result in the reduction of facial pore appearance of at least 2, as measured by the Pore Rule. Pore Rule measurements were used as the experimental technique to objectively measure the appearance of pore size before and after the application of the compositions according to the present invention and according to the inventive methods. The Pore Rule technique is described in more detail below, with reference to its development and utility as an objective measure of pore size appearance.
PORE RULE The Pore Rule is a test device to objectively determine the condition of facial pores and / or measure the progress or effectiveness of the cosmetic composition over a prolonged period of its application. The pore regulation device is based on the establishment of a clinical graduation scale relevant to consumer perception.
Accordingly, the pore rule device is a clinically usable tool, perceptible to the consumer, for the assessment of facial pores. It can be applied for consumer self-assessment or for evaluation by a cosmetologist or sales associate. The Pore Rule is based on an empirically derived scale to objectively assess the pore attributes in an area of human skin. The pore rule device is based on a 9-point scale. Essentially, the following steps were taken to develop the Pore Rule: 1. Photograph 2. Classification 3. Analysis of the classified data 4. Selection of images 5. Validation of draft pore rule by consumers 1 . Photograph 1 00 Japanese female subjects were photographed using a digital camera under the same lighting conditions and using the same camera settings. The women were asked to remove their facial makeup before being photographed. The photos were obtained in 3 views, the left, front and right views of each subject. The digital images were then burned on a CD-R and printed consistently on A4-size photo paper on the Codonics® color printer. The adjustments in the printer were optimized to closely match the color of the images when viewed on a calibrated BARCO® color monitor. It is preferred to put gray eyes to eliminate the possible identification of subjects. Even more preferable is to transform the pore images on a single face, to facilitate the comparison of pore attributes without the distraction caused by the variation of unrelated facial features. 2. Classification The 100 printed photographs were placed in 9 drawers (by evaluators in both the United States and Japan) to increase the order of perceptible pore size or "outstanding pores". There were 6 evaluators in the United States and 3 in Japan who participated in this exercise and it took approximately 1.5 to 3 hours per evaluator to complete the exercise. The evaluators adopted one of many ways to achieve the classification. While few evaluators began dividing the stack into 3 drawers (ie, low, medium and high), before further classifying each of the drawers until they reached the final result of 9 drawers. Other evaluators began by identifying the extremes in the perceptible pore size condition and then worked through the middle part. Regardless of the method adopted, the evaluators were instructed to finish with 9 pore boxes that were representative of the differences in perceptible pore size. In addition, the evaluators were also asked to identify a simple photograph per drawer that was the most representative of the images in that drawer. 3. Analysis of selected data Approximately 90% of the evaluators agreed among themselves within the "pore box". The next step in the development of the rule is the selection of the images. 4. Selection of images The selection of images of the pore rule consisted of the following steps: 1. Select "representative" images of each drawer (draft pore rule) 2. Reach a high agreement (low standard deviations) regarding the images selected by the different evaluators. 3. Select those images that provide equal steps between neighboring drawers. 4. Iterate between Japanese and American graduates until an agreement is reached. In the co-pending US patent application no. 1 0/606, 390, incorporated herein by reference, Fig. 1 depicts a Pore Rule having 9 images. Pore Rule images capture a range of conditions in the facial pores that are representative facial pores of Japanese consumers.
. Validation of draft pore rule The next step in the development of the rule was the validation of the draft rule by consumers. This involved two steps. The first step was the validation of the rule by clinicians. The results of this validation showed that the rank ordering the pore rule images by clinicians is the same as that of the graders in both Japan and the United States. The next step in the validation process involved presenting the images of natural Japanese consumers and having them in rank order the images. Fifty-five Japanese consumers (age: 20-55, female) were asked to rank the photographs in increasing order of perceptible pore size. Consumers classified the images in the same order as the clinicians. There was a significant difference for each pair of photos at 95%. An improvement of one point on the scale was considered both notable and relevant to the consumer as well as the expert grader. The previous results showed that the Pore Rule is a rule perceptible by the consumer and can be used in studies for visual assessment of the pores in an objective manner.
FORM AND PACKAGING OF THE PRODUCT The composition can be packed in a suitable container to adjust its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a composition can be stored simply in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a jar with a lid or a tube, respectively. The invention in accordance therewith also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as defined herein. A cosmetic product system, including a packaged cosmetic composition together with a simple diagnostic pore rule device, is another embodiment of the present invention. The following specific examples further illustrate the invention, but the invention is not limited thereto.
EXAMPLE 1 The formulations detailed in Table 5 below were prepared using the following procedures: All preparation was performed at room temperature (25 ° C) using overhead mixers (1000 rpm). In Table 5 below, the compsitions are listed as the percentage of assets, not the percentage of samples as received. For example, 70 weight percent Dow Corning 9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend was used in Example 1. This material consisted of 12 to 1 3 weight percent silicone elastomer polymer and 87 to 88 weight percent cyclopentasiloxane, which is equivalent to Dow Corning 245 Fluid. Therefore, the content of silicone elastomer polymer in the formulation of Example 1 is 8.75 weight percent and the content of cyclopentasiloxane is 61.25 weight percent.
Com positions 1 -3 Formulations 1, 2 and 3 were prepared by combining Dow Corning 9040 Silicon Elastomer Blend and Dow Corning 200 Fluid, followed by agitation using an overhead mechanical stirrer until homogeneous. The particulate additives were slowly mixed in, followed by stirring for 20 minutes or more to obtain a smooth, homogeneous dispersion.
Composition 4 Carbopol ™ R ETD2020 was dispersed in water using an overhead mixer. The particulate additive, in this case Neosil ™ CT1 1, was added slowly and the mixture was homogenized for 20 minutes at high cut. The pH of the dispersion was then adjusted to a pH above 5 using a NaOH solution. Finally, Silsoft ™ Surface Film Former was added and the mixture was homogenized using a top mixer until a smooth, homogeneous dispersion was obtained.
Composition 5 RhodopolM R 23 powder was dispersed in 1,3-butylene glycol, followed by slowly adding water while stirring. A homogeneous dispersion was obtained with a concentration of RhodopolMR 23 of 2 weight percent, a concentration of 1,3-butylene glycol of 5 weight percent and the remainder of water. This dispersion was added to a mixing vessel in an amount sufficient to make the concentration of RhodopolMR 23 in the fully formulated mixture equal to 0.50 weight percent. Water and glycerol were added and the mixture was stirred using a mechanical stirrer higher than 800 rpm until RhodopolMR 23 was completely dissolved. At that time, Neosil ™ CT1 was slowly added to prevent coagulation and the dispersion was homogenized using the overhead stirrer. Finally, Flexan R I I powder was added and the formulation was stirred until homogeneous.
Composition 6 StylezeM R CC-1 0, glycerol and water were added to a mixing vessel and agitated slowly with an overhead mechanical stirrer until homogeneous. Celquat ™ 230M powder was added and dissolved.
Neosil ™ CT1 1 was added and the dispersion was shaken with the overhead stirrer until it was smooth and homogeneous.
Composition 7 Carbopol® R ETD2020 was dispersed in water using an overhead mechanical stirrer, followed by the addition of Micro Titanium Dioxide MT-100SA and stirred until well dispersed. The viscosity of the dispersion was increased by neutralizing the Carbopol ™ ETD2020 by adding sodium hydroxide solution until the pH was equal to about 6. Avalure ™ AC 120 was added and the resulting dispersion mixed until homogeneous.
Compositions 8, 9, 1 1 Formulation procedures similar to Compositions 1 -3.
Composition 1 0 Formulation procedure similar to Composition 6.
Compositions 1-5 in Table 5 are within the scope of the invention, while compositions 6-1 1 are outside the scope of the invention, as shown by the physical properties in Table 6 below. Table 6 also contains data for a commercial composition provided by Pola and two commercial compositions provided by Shiseido. The optical and rheological properties of the compositions were measured according to the following procedures.
Opacity. A Hunterlab LabScan ™ XE automated spectrophotometer was used to measure the opacity of product coatings. The coatings were made on LenetaMR Form 2A opacity test charts held in place on a vacuum plate, and a wet film applicator of path 8 was used to coat a film with a wet thickness of 2 mil, ie, 50.8 μm (all equipment provided by Paul N. Gardner Co., Pompano Beach, Florida). This wet film thickness was chosen to approximate the film thickness in the clinical tests, in which 75 μl was applied in approximately 2 in2, ie 1 290 mm2, which corresponds to a wet film thickness of 58 μm. The coatings were air dried before the opacity measurement. The opacity values were reported as percent opacity, defined as the Y value of the coating in the black area of the test chart divided by the Y value in the white area by 1 00%. The Y value is the Y coordinate of CI É Tristimulus measured by the Hunteriab instrument. If a coating were completely transparent, the opacity would be 0%; if it were completely opaque, it would be 1 00%.
Brness measurements. The specular gloss of product coatings was measured using a commercial gloss meter, the Rhopoint 20 ° / 60 ° / 85 ° Novo-Gloss ™ Statistical Glossmeter (Rhopoint I nstrumentation, Ltd, UK). Specular gloss is a measure of the brness of a product film. It is defined in international standards as the ratio of luminous flux reflected from an object in a specular direction, for specified source and receiver angle, to the reflected l flux of glass with a refractive index of 1.567 in a specular direction. To define the brness scale, by convention a value of 1 00 brness units is assigned to polish the black glass with nD = 1.557 for reflection angles of 20 °, 60 ° and 85 °. The gloss meter used is supplied with two brness calibration standards, one with zero brness and one with a hbrness of 93.2 g.u. at 60 °. It was found that a reflection angle of 60 ° produced the greatest separation in brness values between the samples and all subsequent measurements were made at that angle. The brness measurements were made on product films coated in opacity test charts using the same procedure as in the opacity measurements.
Rheology measurements. The rheology of the compositions was measured using a controlled tension rheometer (ARES, Rheometric Scientific, Piscataway, NJ). The test geometry used here was a parallel plate 25 mm in diameter at a sample opening thickness of 1 00 μm. The cutting speeds available in this geometry depend on the rotation speed and the sample opening thickness. With an opening of 1 00 μm, a maximum cutting speed of 10,000 to 1,00,000 1 / s is achievable. All measurements were made at 25 ° C. The small volumes of the samples were deposited between the plates and squeezed to the thickness of 100 μm. A force-opening test mode was used, which controlled the maximum force exerted on the sample as the parallel plates were brought together. Excess sample material at the plate edge was removed to improve reproducibility. The samples were cut starting at a cutting speed of 1 1 / s.The cutting speed increased in logarithmic steps (1 step per decade, with each step taking approximately 30 s) until it reached 1 0, 000 1 / The normal viscosity and strength of the sample were recorded.After the measurement was completed, the normal force was corrected for baseline.The viscosity values at 1 1 / s and 1 0, 000 1 / s and the force normal at 1 0, 000 1 / s were taken as characteristic of the sample.
TABLE 5 (Quantities in percent Inventive compositions Comparative in we) Ingredients% Manufacturer of 1 2 3 4 5 10 11 active ingredient Polymers 9040 Silicone 12.5 Dow Corning 8.75 6.25 10.00 6.25 Elastomer Blend Velvesil 125 12.5 General Electric 10.00 10 Silsoft Surface Film 25 OSi Specialties 5.00 Former Flexan II 100 National Starch 2.92 Styleze CC-10 10 ISP 3.00 3.00 Avalure AC-120 29 Noveon 2.00 15 Thickeners Carbopol ETD 2020 100 Noveon 0.25 0.25 Rhodopol 23 100 Rhodia 1.00 Celquat SC230M 100 National Starch 1.00 0.25 Vehicle 1, 3-butylene glycol 100 2.50 Glycerol 100 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 245 Fluid 100 Dow Corning 61.25 70.00 43.75 70.00 43.75 200 Fluid (20 Cst) 100 Dow Corning 29.00 19.00 30.00 20.00 45.00 70.00 Water 100 93.75 90.53 93.00 97.45 94.75 ~ Particles Micro Titanium 100 Tri-K 1.00 5.00 t oo Dioxide MT-100SA MSS-500 / 3N Silica 100 Kobo 1.00 6.65 10.00 Neosil CT11 100 Crossfield 1.00 1.00 1.00 Titanium dioxide 100 Whittaker 0.30 Ganzpearl GMP-0820 100 Presperse 10.00 15.00 15 Mica S-2 100 Kobo 3.35 5.00 Total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 TABLE 6 Properties Between: Y: Property ranges Fn (normal force) 0.1 [N] desired: n (viscosity) @ 1 1 / s 10 100 [Pa.s] n (viscosity) @ 10,000 1 / s 0.01 0.3 [Pa .s] Brightness at 60 ° 0 10 [gu] Opacity 3 6 [%] t Composition Composition Fn n @ 1 1 / sn @ 10,000 Brightness at Opacity # [N] [Pa.s] 1 / s [Pa.s] 60 ° [gu] [%] Pola Daily Cosme Base 0.61 198.7 0.2553 3.5 2.88 Shiseido Asplir Base 0.28 175.0 0.3995 4.4 3.14 Shiseido Selfit Base 0.044 22.65 0.0518 24.6 3.76 15 1 80% DC9040, 1% TIO2 0.033 15.06 0.1219 2.0 4.70 2 80% Velvesil, 1% T0O2 0.075 63.99 0.1680 1.5 4.40 3 50% DC9040, 20 % mixture of 0.0049 29.44 0.1419 3.4 4.56 soft focus particle 4 20% Silsoft, 1% Neosil 0.062 13.73 0.0366 4.4 3.54 5 2.9% Flexan II, 1% Neosil 0.043 17.14 0.0127 1.6 4.62 6 30% Styleze, 1% Neosil 0 14.7 1.57 7 6.9% Avalure, 0.3% TiO2 0.076 3.845 0.0362 29.2 2.06 8 80% DC9040 0.024 2.686 0.0122 3.31 9 50% DC9040, 5% TiO2 0.044 59.03 0.0460 3.0 7.70 10 30% Styleze 0.22 0.6967 0.0385 85.8 0.90 11 30% focus particle mixture 0.412 83.96 0.0611 4.7 2.05 or soft fifteen EXAMPLE 2 The effect of the 1 -1 1 compositions, as well as the Pola and Shiseido products, on the appearance of pore size was evaluated in a sensory panel, using the Pore Rule technique described hereinabove. The evaluation was made within 30 minutes of applying the composition. The change in grade of Pore Rule was generally evaluated compared to the application of demineralized water. In some cases, it was evaluated compared to the formulation vehicle, which is the formulation without the polymer and particulates, or compared with other formulations. The P value quoted for a tested composition refers to the null hypothesis that the average population change of the baseline for the composition tested is zero, with the baseline being the product against which the tested composition was compared.
TABLE 7 Compo- Composition Change of Number Compa- Value P sicion no. degree of pore rada rule subject to Pola Daily Base -1.25 14 Water 3.7x10- Cosme Shiseido Base -2.23 13 No. 3 1.6x10"selfit 1 70% DC9040, 1% TIO2 -2.78 16 Water 1.6x10" 4 3 50% DC9040, 20% mix of -4.23 13 Selfit 1.6x10-5 soft focus particle 4 20% Silsoft, 1% Neosil -1.93 15 Water 7.6x10"4 2.9% Flexan II, 1% Neosil -1.96 23 Vehicle 0.0172 6 30% Styleze, 1% Neosil -1.00 12 Water 0.0089 7 6.9% Avalure, 0.3% TiO2 -1.62 16 Water 0.023 30% Styleze 0.10 15 Water 10-? O 11 30% particle mix of 1.97 15 Water 0.0084 soft focus It can be seen from this example, that compositions within the scope of the present invention reduce the appearance of pore size, to the extent of at least about 2 units of improvement as measured in the Pore Rule.

Claims (9)

REIVI NDICATIONS
1 . A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) 0.01 to 30% w / w of a cross-linked polysiloxane elastomer; (b) 0.1% to 25% w / w of light scattering particles; and (c) - a cosmetically acceptable vehicle; wherein said composition has: a viscosity at room temperature of 1 0 Pa.s to 1 Pa.s at a cutting speed of 1 1 / s; and 0.01 Pa.s at 0.3 Pa.s at 10, 000 1 / s; an opacity of 3% to 6%; a brightness at 60 degrees up to 10 g.u.; a normal force of up to 0.1 N at a cutting speed of 1 0,000 1 / s; and said composition results in an improved appearance of facial pores of at least 2 as measured by the Pore Rule.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises a silicone oil.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein said elastomer is present in an amount of 1% to 10% by weight of the composition.
4. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) 0.01 to 1.0% w / w of a water-based polymer; (b) 0.1%) at 25% or w / w of light scattering particles; and (c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle; wherein said composition has: a viscosity at room temperature of 1 0 Pa.s to 1 Pa.s at a cutting speed of 1 1 / s; and 0.01 Pa.s at 0.3 Pa.s at 1 0, 000 1 / s; an opacity of 3% to 6%; a brightness at 60 degrees up to 10 g. or.; a normal force of up to 0. 1 N at a cutting speed of 1 0,000 1 / s; and said composition results in an improved appearance of facial pores of at least 2 as measured by the Pore Rule.
5. A composition according to claim 4, wherein said polymer is present in an amount of 1% to 10% by weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the light scattering particles are selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, mica coated with titanium, silica, talcum, cross polymer of PMMA, nylon, microcrystalline cellulose and mixtures thereof. A composition according to claim 6, wherein the light scattering particles are selected from the group consisting of mica coated with titanium, silica, cross-linked PMMA polymer and mixtures thereof. 8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said light scattering particles are present in an amount of 0.5% up to 10% by weight of the composition. 9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said light scattering particles have a particle size of less than 30 microns. 1 0. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising a thickener in an amount of up to 2% w / w. eleven . A method for reducing the appearance of skin pores comprising applying to the skin a composition according to any preceding claim. 12. The method of claim 1, wherein said improved facial pore appearance is at least 4 as measured by the Pore Rule.
MXPA/A/2006/005252A 2003-11-12 2006-05-10 Cosmetic compositions and methods for reducing the appearance of pores MXPA06005252A (en)

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