MXPA01009117A - Cosmetic stick composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic stick product, especially an antiperspirant and/or deodorant is disclosed which is made with a combination of dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate and stearyl alcohol. This stick employs the deliberate use of diethyl phthalate even in a system which is free of added fragrance to achieve improved stability and allow for the use of reduced amounts of dipropylene glycol.

Description

COMPOSITION OF COSMETIC BAR Field of the invention This invention relates to an improved cosmetic stick made with a combination of dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate and stearyl alcohol. This bar exhibits improved stability and allows for the use of reduced amounts of dipropylene glycol.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Previous attempts to form stable bars have been made using a variety of different chemistries. While ingredients such as stearyl alcohol and polyhydric alcohols such as dipropylene glycol are useful in the formation of cosmetic sticks such as lipsticks, sunscreens, solid perfumes, antiperspirants, deodorants, etc., there may be problems in stability which have undesired side effects, such as torsional forces of higher packing lift. This can compromise the integrity of the product container.

Diethylphthalate itself has previously been shown as a solubilizing agent, diluent or extender for the art of perfume as in U.S. Patent No. 5,833,999 to Trinh et al. (For example, in column 4, lines 25 to 35) and in U.S. Patent No. 5,849,310 issued to Trinh et al. (For example, in column 5, in 25 to 34).

We noted that the inclusion of fragrance material was useful to produce improved bars in certain cosmetic bar products with certain chemical components. Some problems arose, when the fragrance was not included in the formulation. Since fragrance compositions sometimes contain incidental amounts of diethylphthalate ("DEP"), such as in amounts on the order of 0.02 percent by weight basis of the total weight of the composition, it may have been this ingredient that was causing some improvement. It has now been discovered that the deliberate use of diethyl phthalate in combination with a sufficient amount of dipropylene glycol and stearyl alcohol can be used to form satisfactory cosmetic sticks even in fragrance-free products.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to create improved cosmetic bars, especially those that are better able to be used in rigid packaging after formulation. It is an additional object to form improved cosmetic bars with reduced amounts of dipropylene glycol. These and other objects of the invention may be apparent from the following description.

Synthesis of the invention The cosmetic bar compositions of the invention are made by combining: a) 10 to 24% stearyl alcohol (particularly 18 to 24%); b) 37 to 55% of a volatile silicone (particularly 50 to 55%); c) 18 to 25% of a cosmetically active ingredient; d) 0.05 to 0.15% dipropylene glycol; e) 0.06 to 2.0% (particularly 0.10 to 1.0% and more particularly .30 to 1.0%) of a cosolvent (particularly diethyl phthalate) with a solubility parameter in the range of 19 to 20; Y f) 1 to 8% of a wax with a higher melting point (melting point in the range of 65 to 102 degrees C); wherein the cosmetic rod has a three-point flexion of at least 0.093 MPa ± 0.01 and a high torsional force not exceeding 90% of the calibration force of the container in Newton-meters; and all percentages are percentages of weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Detailed description of the invention The importance of this invention is the creation of a structurally more desirable cosmetic bar. The use of a gellant such as stearyl alcohol in combination with a solvent such as dipropylene glycol does not always produce a product with a satisfactory shelf life as reflected in a satisfactory combination of hardness and torsional lifting properties. It has been found that the use of a cosolvent such as diethyl phthalate works extraordinarily and surprgly well in this system. This is in contrast to a system containing propylene glycol or tripropylene glycol which does not work satisfactorily as a substitute for dipropylene glycol in this invention. A particular incorporation of interest is a fragrance-free system.

Another important aspect of this invention is that which allows the formation of an appropriate cosmetic stick with a much smaller amount of dipropylene glycol solvent than is normally required. For example, the bars have been made with 1/10 of the usual amount of dipropylene glycol. It has been shown that in systems that only use dipropylene glycol as the solvent, one of two situations occurs. In the first situation, if enough DPG is added to form a bar with sufficient hardness (for example, a bending of three points of at least 0.093 MPa ± 0.01, where when using a large sample of no more than a few percent of the information the points fall below the lower limit) the lifting torque is not satisfactory (for example, it exceeds a level of 90% of the value of the resistance of the container in Nm) which results in a problem with the ability of the bar to be contained in the container. In the second situation, the amount of DPG is reduced, but the hardness of the bar is not satisfactory. This occurs even if the DPG level is reduced by only 30% of the normal amount.

The parameters for the hardness and the lifting torque have been described in terms of certain numerical limits (a three point bending of at least 0.093 MPa ± 0.01 and a lifting torque not exceeding 90% of the packing force calibration). It should be noted, however, that the lifting torque starts as an initial value at the time of manufacture and then increases with time depending on the amount of moisture that the composition absorbs over time. The value of the lifting torque can be stabilized at a final value of about 6 months of time. From a statistical point of view, the cosmetic bars of the invention should be made so that no more than 4% of the bars made in a given batch exhibit a three point bending of less than 0.093 MPa ± 0.01 and a twisting force of elevation (after 4 to 6 months) that exceeds 90% of the qualification of the container resistance in Newton-meters.

In a particular example, a package of the type described in the patent of the United States of America No. ,275,496 (incorporated by reference in its entirety here) can be made to support a force of X N-m. In that case it is preferred that the composition of the invention be made to have a value of lifting torque (as measured within 2 weeks of manufacture) of less than X-2 N-m. For example if the container is rated at 4.1 N-m the value of the lifting torque must be less than 1.76 N-m. Other equivalents are possible. For example, it can be used for a container rated as being capable of withstanding a force of 5.1 N-m, a lifting torque not exceeding 2.76 a 2. 79 For a container that is not completely hermetic (for example, a package of the type described in U.S. Patent No. 5,275,496), a greater increase in the lifting torque may be expected over the life of the product at the counter (eg, for a period of time). 6 months) than for an airtight container. Therefore, for a container that is airtight a higher initial lift torque value can be tolerated, as long as the final value (eg, after a counter life of 6 months) is less than the limit of 90 % previously described.

With respect to the components used to make this invention, the volatile silicone can be selected from the group consisting of low molecular weight and volatile polydimethylsiloxane materials which are either linear or cyclic, with the particular example being cyclomethicone such as the fluid Dow Corning 245, Dow Corning 345 fluid, SF-1204 (GE silicones) which are cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds wherein the ring may contain from 4 to 6 silicone atoms.

The cosmetically active ingredient can be selected from the group consisting of topically active compositions which act on contact with the skin or which are cosmetic enhancement in their own right such as lipsticks and eye shadow bars. These ingredients can be added separately or added with any of the ingredients in the cosmetic bar. Examples of symmetrically active ingredients include sunscreens, coloring agents, topical anesthetics, insect repellents, antimicrobial compounds, antifungal compounds, and antiperspirant actives.

Antiperspirant actives include aluminum / zirconium and conventional aluminum salts, as well as complex aluminum / zirconium salts with a neutral amino acid such as glycine, as is known in the art. See each of the European patent applications number 512,770 Al and the PCT case WO 92/19221, the content of each of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety, for the description of antiperspirant active materials. These include, by way of example (and not of a limiting nature), aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sesquichlorhydrate, zirconyl hydrochloride, aluminum-zirconium glycine complex (e.g. trichlorohydrex aluminum-zirconium, gly pentachlorohydrex zirconium and aluminum, glyc tetrachlorohydrex zirconium and aluminum and gli octochlorohydrex zirconium and aluminum), PG chlorohydrex aluminum, PEG chlorohydrex aluminum, PG dichlorohydrex aluminum, PEG aluminum dichlorohydrex, the propylene glycol complex of zirconium aluminum glycol trichlorohydrex, the dipropylene glycol complex of glycol trichlorohydrex zirconium and aluminum, the propylene glycol complex of aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex, the dipropylene glycol complex of zirconium glyc tetrachlorohydrex and aluminum, and mixtures of any of the above. Aluminum-containing materials can be commonly referred to as antiperspirant active aluminum salts. Generally, the foregoing antiperspirant metal active materials are antiperspirant active metal salts. In the incorporations which are antiperspirant compositions according to the present invention, such compositions do not need to include metal salts containing aluminum, and may include other antiperspirant active materials, including other antiperspirant active metal salts. Generally, active antiperspirant ingredients of category I listed in the Food and Drug Administration monograph on drugs sold on the antiperspirant counter may be used for human use. Additionally, any new drug, not listed in the monograph, such as the titanium and tin analogs of the aluminum salts listed above, aluminum nitrate hydrate and its combination with zirconyl hydroxychlorides and nitrates, or aluminum chlorohydrates- stannous, can be incorporated as an antiperspirant active ingredient in the antiperspirant compositions according to the present invention. Preferred antiperspirant actives that can be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention include the increased efficacy aluminum salts and the increased efficiency zirconium / aluminum glycine salts materials, which have increased efficacy due to the improved molecular distribution, known in the art and described, for example, in PCT No. W092 / 19221, the content of which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.

The antiperspirant active can be incorporated into compositions according to the present invention in amounts in the range of 0.1 to 30% (on an anhydrous solid basis), preferably 5 to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The amount used may depend on the formulation of the compositions. For example, in quantities at the lower end of the wider range (eg, 0.1 to 5%), the antiperspirant active material will substantially not be able to reduce the flow of perspiration, but may reduce the malodour, for example, by acting as a deodorant material , for example, by acting as an antimicrobial or complexing with the malodorous components of human perspiration.

The active deodorant materials may include in lower antiperspirant active amounts, such as in the range of 0.01 to 10%, as well as fragrances, and effective amounts of antimicrobial agents, for example, bacteriostatic quaternary ammonium compounds (such as cetyl bromide). trimethyl ammonium, and cetyl pyridinium chloride), 2,4,4'-trichloro-2 '-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan), N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N' - (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea (triclocarban), silver halides, octoxiglycerin (SENSIVA ™ SC 50) and various zinc salts (eg, zinc ricinoleate) may also be included in the formulations of the present invention. The bacteriostat can, illustratively, be included in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The triclosan or the triclocarban can, illustratively, be included in an amount of 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

Suitable cosolvents with a solubility parameter in the range of 19 to 20 include diethyl phthalate.

Suitable top melting waxes include hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax, spermaceti, carnauba, bay berry, candelilla, montane, ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin, synthetic waxes, the microcrystalline wax, and the mixtures thereof. Hydrogenated castor oil (castor wax) is the preferred preferred top melting wax. Such higher melting point waxes which are among those useful herein are described in U.S. Patent No. 4,049,792 issued to Elsnan which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

Optionally, one or more of the following ingredients may also be included: 1) One or more surfactants selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene) ethers, poly (ethylene) esters, poly (ethylene diesters), poly (ethylene glycol) esters, poly (ethylene glycol) esters, polyol diethylene glycol diethers, polyethylene glyceryl esters, polyethylene glyceryl diethers and, in particular, surfactants such as polyoxyethylene glycol esters, glyceryl esters, polyoxyethylene glycol diesters, and polyoxyethylene glycol ethers. (a) up to 2% PEG-100 stearate in combination with up to 2% glyceryl monostearate; or (b) 0.5 to 5% of distearate PEG-8; or (c) 0.5 to 5% of PEG-25 of propylene glycol stearate. 2) Coloring agents. 3) Additional emollients which are a known class of materials in this art. According to the present invention, the emollient (for example, the non-volatile emollient) incorporated in the composition imparts both desirable aesthetic properties to the stick and imparts emollient effects to the skin. Suitable non-volatile emollients include silicone and non-silicone materials. Such silicone materials include silicone compounds such as polyalkysiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, and polyethersiloxane copolymers. Such silicone materials include fatty acid, fatty alcohol esters, and water insoluble ethers and alcohols. Emollients among those useful in the art are described in Cosmetics, Science and Technology, Vol. 1, 27 to 104 (1972) edited by Balsam and Sagarin, such article is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

Non-volatile emollient materials (both non-volatile silicone materials and non-volatile emollient material that is not a silicone material) can each include a mixture.

Illustratively, the non-volatile emollient material can be incorporated into the composition in an amount of 3% to 27% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. This range is not limiting of the present invention.

Particular examples of emollients include PEG-14 butyl ether in an amount of 4 to 15%; the phenyl trimethicone in an amount of 2 to 10%; the C12 alkyl benzoate at 15 as in an amount of 4 to 15%; or dimethicone in an amount of 2 to 5%. 4) Inert particles can also be included. These include 1 to 10% of inert particles comprising materials or mixtures of materials that are essentially insoluble in water and which do not decompose or react with the wax, materials, silicone oils or other components of the cosmetic bars under the conditions of preparation and use. The particles that can be incorporated in this invention include those polyolefin compounds (such as polystyrene, polyethylene, and polypropylene), nylon, Teflon®, cross-linked insoluble starches, talc, silica (including precipitated and smoked silicas), clays (which include bentonites, hectorites, kaolin), talc, etc. (See the description for some of these materials in U.S. Patent No. 4,822,603, such a patent is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety). Particular examples of such materials include 2 to 10% talc, 1 to 2% polyethylene.

) The fragrance can also be included such as the fragrance encapsulated in an amount of 0.2 to 1.5% or conventional fragrance in an amount of 0.01 to 2.0%. 6) Antimicrobials can be included in both deodorant and breathable compositions. An example is Triclosan as noted above, particularly in an amount of 0.093 to 1%.

The compositions of the invention can be made by a variety of techniques. One method is to add the components of the formulation using temperatures sufficient to melt or dissolve the waxes in the liquid base material, by pouring the composition into a bar mold (or multiple molds), and then cooling the product to form a solid stick. Typically the wax and liquid materials are mixed together at a temperature of 70 to 90 degrees C and then the particulate material is added. The batch is then cooled to 60 degrees C and then, before pouring into the bar molds, the composition is further cooled just above the solidification point of the composition.

The cosmetic bars made for this invention are generally opaque.

The particular ranges for the proportions of the DPG, DEP and stearyl alcohol with respect to the weight of the total formula are in the range of 0.16-0.05 DPG to 0.02-0.45 DEP where the weight of the formula is 1.

Through the present disclosure, wherein the compositions are described as including or comprising specific components or materials or wherein the methods are described as including or comprising specific steps, it was contemplated by the inventors that the compositions of the present invention also consist of essentially of, or consist of, the recited materials or components, and also consist essentially of or consist of recited steps. Thus, throughout the present disclosure any disclosed composition of the present invention may consist essentially of, or consist of, the recited components or materials and any disclosed method of the present invention may consist essentially of or consist of recited steps. Also wherein a composition is described as comprising the composition should be read as including a composition made by combining the listed ingredients even if the reaction products are formed.

The follo examples are given as illustrative of the invention but other modifications may be made to those skilled in the art which are within the spirit and scope of the invention. Unless otherwise noted, all amounts in the examples and elsewhere in the application are in percent by weight. All chemical symbols and scientific abbreviations have their usual and customary meanings and all temperatures are in degrees centigrade. Note that MPa = l X 10 6 Pa. The method described above was used to make the compositions with the ingredients described in the examples unless particular modifications are described in the examples.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLES 1-2 Examples 1 and 2 are antiperspirant bars made as a filler with the ingredients listed in Table I. For Examples 1 and 2 the cyclomethicone is mixed with the stearyl alcohol and the mixture is heated to about 72 ° C until the solution be transparent The hydrogenated castor oil and the Arlacel 165 are then added and mixed until they dissolve. The active antiperspirant is added as a dry particulate matter. Dipropylene glycol and diethyl phthalate are added and the charge is mixed. The load is cooled with mixing at 53 ° C, poured into bar shapes, and further cooled to form a solid stick. All amounts are in percent by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

TABLE 1 (a) A mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl monostearate, sold by ICI Americas Inc., of Wilmington, Delaware.

EXAMPLES 3-4 For comparison purposes, the procedure of Examples 1-2 was repeated except that the solvents or cosolvents are removed. The ingredients that can be used to make these bars comparable are listed in Table II given below.

TABLE II (a) A mixture of PEG-100 stearate-Glyceryl monostearate, sold by ICI Americas Inc., of Wilmington, Delaware.

To determine the structural integrity of the bars, the three-point bending of a cosmetic bar made according to Example 2 was compared with bars made with the same amount of ingredients as described for Examples 3 and 4. The parameters for the Three point bending as measured by the method described in ASTM C 1161-94 as well as the torsional force to raise the bar over time as measured by the method described in ASTM D 2063-91 were used; whose published ASTM methods are incorporated by reference in their entirety here. The measurements were taken on a number of bars and the reported values are averages. As can be seen in Table III Dipropylene glycol results in an improved rod structure, however, in the case of Example 4 this also resulted in higher torsional lifting forces. When used at lower levels with a cosolvent, the compositions can be made with good structure and low lifting torsional forces. The packing ratio used for these products was 4.1N-m. Note that for Example 2, no more than 4% of the bars failed the criterion of having (a) a three-point bend of at least 0.093 MPa + 0.01 and (b) a lifting torsional force that is maintained at a value that does not exceed 90% of the resistance ratio for the package. Example 4 will not satisfy this test. Example 3 has a failure rate of more than 4% for the three point bending test even when the average value was acceptable.

TABLE III (b) The data in this column are the estimates based on running tests on similar compositions but not on these exact examples. (c) Bars made according to this composition exhibit a failure rate of around 15%. Therefore, even when the average three-point bending value for the load was 0.13, more than 4% of the bars in a given load will have a three-point bend of less than 0.093 MPa + 0.01.

Claims (16)

R E I V I N D I C A C I O N S

1. A cosmetic stick composition comprising (a) 10-24% stearyl alcohol; (b) 37-55% of a volatile silicone; (c) 18-25% of a cosmetically active ingredient; (d) 0.05-0.15% dipropylene glycol; (e) 0.06-2.0% of a cosolvent with a solubility parameter in the range of 19-20; Y (f) 1-8% of a high melting point wax; wherein the cosmetic bar has a three point bending of at least 0.093 MPa + 0.01 and a lifting torsional force which is maintained at a value not exceeding 90% of the packet strength in meters-Newton; and where all percent are percent by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

2. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the volatile silicone is a member of the group consisting of volatile low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane materials which are either linear or cyclic.

3. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the volatile silicone is cyclomethicone.

4. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the cosmetically active ingredient is a member of the group consisting of sunscreens, coloring agents, topical anesthetics, insect repellents, antimicrobial compounds, antifungal compounds and antiperspirant actives. .

5. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 4, characterized in that the antiperspirant active is a member of the group consisting of aluminum salts, aluminum / zirconium salts, and aluminum / zirconium salts complexed with amino neutral acid.

6. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 5, characterized in that the active antiperspirant is a member of the group consisting of aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, zirconyl hydroxychloride, aluminum-zirconium glycine complex , PG Aluminum Chlorohydrex, Aluminum PEG Chlorohydrex, Aluminum Dichlorohydrex PG, Aluminum Dichlorohydrex PEG, Aluminum Zirconium Complex, Trichlorohydrex Gly, Propylene Glycol, Aluminum Zirconium Complex, Trichlorohydrex Gly, Dipropylene Glycol, Aluminum Zirconium Complex, Tetrachlorohydrexyl Propylene Glycol, Complex of aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly dipropylene glycol, and mixtures of any of the foregoing

7. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the cosolvent is diethyl phthalate.

8. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 5, characterized in that the cosolvent is diethyl phthalate.

9. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the high melt point wax is hydrogenated castor oil.

10. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in any one or more of Clauses 1-9, which is free of added fragrance.

11. A cosmetic stick composition as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that it also comprises at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of a surfactant, an additional emollient and an inert particulate material.

12. A cosmetic bar as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the amount of cosolvent is 0.10-1.0%.

13. A cosmetic bar as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the amount of cosolvent is 0.30-1.0%.

14. A cosmetic bar as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the amount of stearyl alcohol is 18-24%.

15. A cosmetic bar as claimed in clause 1, characterized in that the amount of volatile silicone is 50-55%.

16. A cosmetic bar composition made as a load by combining: a) 10-24% stearyl alcohol; b) 37-55% of a volatile silicone; c) 18-25% of a cosmetically active ingredient; d) 0.05-0.15% dipropylene glycol; e) 0.06-2.0% of a cosolvent with a solubility parameter in the range of 19-20; Y f) 1-8% of a high melting point wax; wherein at least 96% of the cosmetic bars made in the load have a three point bending of at least 0.093 MPa + 0.01 and a lifting torsion force not exceeding 90% of the packing resistance ratio in Newton -meters during the life of the product; and where all percent are percent by weight based on the total weight of the composition. SUMMARY A cosmetic stick product is described, especially an antiperspirant and / or a deodorant which is described with a combination of dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate and stearyl alcohol. This bar employs the deliberate use of diethyl phthalate even in a system which is free of added fragrance to achieve improved stability and allow the use of small amounts of dipropylene glycol.