MXPA01007887A - Hair treatment compositions comprising c20 or higher unsaturated fatty acid polyester of cyclic polyols - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment compositions are provided which have conditioning benefits and which contain a fatty acid polyester of a polyol selected from cyclic polyols, sugar derivatives and mixtures thereof, in which at least 50%by weight of the total fatty acid moieties of the polyester are C20 or higher unsaturated fatty acid moieties. Specific examples of suitable fatty acid polyesters are sucrose trierucate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose tetraerucate, sucrose trirapeate, sucrose tetrarapeate, and sucrose pentarapeate, and mixtures thereof. The compositions are typically in the form of shampoos or conditioners and give surprisingly improved overall conditioning, in particular hair softness.

Description

COMPOSITIONS OF TREATMENT FOR HAIR COMBINED POLY ESTER OF UNSATURATED FAT ACID OF C2 OR GREATER OF CYCLIC POLYOLS FIELD OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to hair treatment compositions having conditioning benefits and which contain certain polyol fatty acid polyesters.

BACKGROUND OF THE PRIOR ART The fatty acid polyesters of cyclic and / or sugar derived polyols have generally been described as a component of formulations of hair conditioners in the following documents: O98 / 04241 discloses that a conditioning system comprising a Polyol carboxylic acid ester mixture, water-soluble, non-ionic, particular polymers, is valuable shampoo compositions for the delivery of improved docility and hair feel. The cationic cell derivative polymer materials may be included in the compositions as optional ingredients. W096 / 37594 describes a composition for personal cleansing which produces foam, soft, with good attributes of skin sensation, which is based on a combination of a non-ionic surfactant that disperses in oil and dispersed oil phase, which is a mixture of a polyester of liquid polyol fatty acid oil and the second oil component comprising one or more selected non-polar oils, preferably mineral oil, petrolatum, insoluble silicones in soybean oils and mixtures thereof. It is said that the use of this mixed oily system provides an improved feeling to the skin. WO98 / 04240 discloses a shampoo composition containing a particular surfactant base of short chain alkyl sulfate alkyl ethoxy sulfate in combination with a conditioning system comprising an insoluble oil conditioning agent selected from silicone materials, polyol carboxylic acid esters liquid mixtures thereof. JP-A-10 / 077,215 discloses a cosmetic material consisting of fatty acid ester of saccharide and one or more siloxanes selected from methyl polysiloxane, methyl phenyl siloxane and methylpolyxyloxyloxane. It is said that the composition provides good docility and feel after washing when used as a rinse or hair treatment. S exemplify fatty acid esters of saccharides having straight chain saturated fatty acid chains of 18-22 carbon atoms such as stearic, behenic, 12-hydroxistearic fatty acid and lanolin. WO98 / 52528 discloses topical emollient compositions for hair or skin, which comprise a combination of polyester d fatty acid of liquid polyol and solid oil. The liquid polyole polyesters employed are preferably sugars or sugar alcohols esterified with one or more fatty acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. In order to provide liquid polyesters of suitable type, it is stated that less than about half of the fatty acid incorporated in the polyester molecule must be unsaturated, and that the especially preferred fatty acids in this context are oleic and linoleic acids, mixtures of the same. W098 / 52531 relates to emollient cosmetic formulations for hair or skin including polyesters of fatty acids, polyols and liquid oils. Polyol fatty acid polyester is usually a sugar polyester and contains a mixture of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. At least 15%, m preferably at least 60% by weight of the total fatty acid portions of the polyesters are saturated fatty acid portions of C20 or greater. The present inventors have found that certain fatty acid polyesters selected from cyclic polyols and / or sugars derivatives, give surprisingly improved overall conditioning when incorporated into a hair treatment composition. Additionally, the softness of the hair is particularly improved. The compositions of the invention also have particular utility in the treatment of hair that has been damaged, for example, through environmental exposure or severe mechanical or chemical treatments, such as, heat modeling, permanent or discoloration. In such cases the benefits of softness and combability provided by the compositions of the present invention are especially evident.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising a fatty acid polyester of a poly selected from cyclic polyols, sugar derivatives and mixtures thereof, in which at least 50% by weight of the total fatty acid portions of the polyester are portions of unsaturated fatty acids C20 or greater.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION AND PREFERRED MODALITIES (i) Fatty Acid Polyester An essential component in the hair treatment compositions of the invention is a fatty acid polyester of a poly selected from cyclic polyols, sugar derivatives and mixtures thereof, in the which at least 50% by weight of the total fatty acid portions of the polyester are larger portions of unsaturated fatty acids. By "polyol" is meant a material having at least four hydroxyl groups. The polyols used to prepare the fatty acid polyester will preferably have 4 to 12, more preferably 4 to 1, most preferably 4 to 8 hydroxyl groups. By "fatty acid polyester" is meant a material in which at least two of the ester groups are independently of one another a fatty chain (C8 to C22 alkyl or alkenyl). For a given material, the prefixes, such as "tetra-", "penta-" indicate the average degrees of esterification. The compounds exist as a mixture of matter ranging from the monoester to the fully esterified ester. Cyclic polyols are the preferred polyols used to prepare the fatty acid polyester in the present invention. Examples include inositol and all forms of. saccharides. Saccharides, in particular monosaccharides and disaccharides, are especially preferred. Examples of monosaccharides include xylose, arabinose, galactose fructose, sorbose and glucose. Glucose is especially preferred. Examples of disaccharides include maltose, lactose, cellobiose sucrose. Sucrose is especially preferred. Examples of suitable sugar derivatives include sugar alcohols, such as xylitol, erythritol, maltitol and sorbitol, and sugar esters, such as sorbitan. At least 50% by weight of the total fatty acid portions of the polyesters are portions of higher C20 unsaturated fatty acids. Preferably, at least 60% by weight of the total fatty acid portions of the polyesters are unsaturated fatty acid portions of C20 or greater. Examples of suitable higher portions of C20 unsaturated fatty acids include erucate, brasidate, nervonate, arachidonate eicosapentaenoate, eicosate, eicosadienate, docosadienate eicosatriate, docosatrieneate, docosatetraenoate and docosahexaenoate. For oxidative stability, the mono- and di-unsaturated fatty acid portions are preferred. . Erucate is particularly preferred.

The maximum fatty acid portions of source oils, which contain substantial amounts of the desired unsaturated acids, can be used as the acid portions to prepare fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in the hair treatment composition of the hair. invention The mixed fatty acids of the oils should contain at least 50%, most preferably at least 60% of the desired unsaturated acids. For example, high erucic rapeseed oil fatty acids may be used instead of pure C20-C22 unsaturated acids. Preferably, the higher C20 acids, or their derivatives, for example, methyl esters or other lower alkyl, are concentrated, for example, by distillation. Specific examples of suitable fatty acid polyesters are sucrose trierucate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose tetraerucate, sucrose trirrapeate, saccharose tetrarrapeate, sucrose pentarrapeate, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are sucrose pentaerucate sucrose tetraerucate. These materials are commercially available as Ryoto Sugar Esters ex Mitsubishi Kasei Foods. The fatty acid polyester can be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include acylation of the cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide with an acid chloride.; transesterification of the fatty acid esters of cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide using a variety of acylation catalysts of the cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide with an acylation anhydride of the cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide with a fatty acid. Normal preparations of these materials are described in US 4 386 21 and AU 1441 6/88. The total amount of the fatty acid polyester in hair treatment compositions of the invention is generally 0.001 to 10 by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5%, more preferably 0.01 to 3, by weight of the composition of the composition. treatment for total hair. (ii) Product Form The hair treatment compositions according to the invention can conveniently be in the form of conditioning shampoos, aerosols, foams or lotions. The preferred hair treatment composition forms are conditioning shampoos.

Shampoo Compositions A treatment composition for hair particularly preferred according to the invention is a shampoo composition.

- Cleaning surfactant Such a shampoo composition will comprise one or more surfactant cleansers, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. In addition, surfactants may be present as an additional ingredient if sufficient for cleaning purposes is not provided as an emulsifying agent for oily or hydrophobic components (such as silicones), which may normally be present in the shampoo. It is preferred that the shampoo compositions of the invention comprise at least one additional surfactant (in addition to that used as an emulsifying agent) to provide a cleaning benefit. Suitable cleaning surfactants, which may be used singly or in combination, are selected from anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof. The cleansing surfactant can be the same surfactant as the emulsifier, or it can be different. The preferred cleaning surfactants are selected from anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Examples of anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulfates, acaril sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl suflosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially their salts. sodium, magnesium, ammonium, and mono-, di- and triethanolamine. Alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms can be unsaturated. The alkyl ether suflates, alkyl ether phosphates alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule. Normal anionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, uril sulfosuccinate d ammonium, uryl sulfate ammonium, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium lauryl isethionate sodium cocoyl isethionate, and N-lauryl sodium sarcosinate. The most preferred ammonium surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, monolauryl phosphate d triethanolamine, sodium lauryl ether sulfate 1 EO, 2EO and 3EO, ammonium lauryl sulfat and ammonium lauryl ether sulfate 1 EO, 2EO and 3EO. Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxide, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, carboxyl glycinates of alkyl alkyl amphiphropionates, alkyl amphiphilinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. The normal amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethazopropyl betaine and preferably, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocacanopropionate. The shampoo composition may also include co-surfactant to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition. A preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% in weight based on total weight. For example, representative nonionic surfactants that may be included in the compositions. of shampoo of the invention includes condensation products of phenols or branched straight chain alcohols, primary or secondary, aliphatic (C 8 -C 8), with d alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxides and generally having from 6 to 3 groups of ethylene oxide.

Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or d-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coconut mono- or di-ethanolamide coco mono-isopropanolam ida. Additional nonionic surfactants, which may be included in the shampoo compositions of the invention, are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, the APG is one that comprises a connected alkoyl group (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. The preferred APGs are defined by the following formula: RO - (G) " wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl group, the cu can be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group. R can represent a chain length of average aliquot from C5 to C20. Preferably, R represents an average alkyl chain length from C8 to C12. Most preferably, the value of R falls between 9.5 and 10.5. G can be selected from monosaccharide residues of C5 or C6, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, mannose fructose and derivatives thereof. Preferably, G is glucose. The degree of polymerization, n, can have a value from 1 to 1 or more. Preferably, the value of n falls in the range from 1.1 to 2. Most preferably, the value of n falls in the range from 1.3 to 1.5.

Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include, for example, those materials identified as: Oramix NS 1 0 eg Seppic; Plantaren 1200 Plantaren 2000 ej Henkel. The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant and / or any emulsifying agent) in the shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30%, more preferably from 10%. up to 25% by weight d the total shampoo composition.

- Cationic polymer A cationic polymer is a preferred ingredient in the shampoo composition of the invention, to enhance the conditioning performance of the shampoo. Typically, such a polymer enhances the deposition of conditioning components, such as silicone, of the shampoo composition on the intended site during use, i.e., the hair and / or the scalp. The cationic polymer can be a homopolymer or can be formed of two or more types of monomers. The molecular weight of the polymer will generally be between 5,000,000 and 1,000,000, usually at least 10,000, and preferably in the range of 100,000 up to 2,000,000. The polymers will have groups containing cationic nitrogen, such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof.

The group containing cationic nitrogen generally be present as a substituent in a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. In this way, when the polymer is not a homopolymer, it can contain non-cationic monomeric separating units. Such polymers are described in the CTF Cosmetic Ingredient Directory (CTFA Cosmetic Ingredients Directory), 3rd edition. The ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give a polymer having a cationic charge density in the required range. Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having functionality of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine with water-soluble separating monomers, such as (meth) acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth) acrylamides, alky (meth) acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The monomers substituted with alkyl and dialkyl preferably have C 1 -C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups. Other suitable separators include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol maleic anhydride and ethylene glycol. The cationic amines may be primary, secondary tertiary, depending on the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred. The vinyl monomers substituted with amine and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then can be converted to ammonium by quaternization. 3 The cationic polymers may comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine-substituted monomer and / or quaternary ammonium and / or compatible spacer monomers. Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: - copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (for example, chloride salt), referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletr and Fragrance Association (CTFA), as Polyquaternium-16. This material is commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Cor (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the trade name LUVIQUAT (for example LUVIQUAT FC 370); - copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-1 1. This material is commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the trade name GAFQUAT (for example, GAFQUAT 755N); - cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium containing polymers including, for example, homopolymer dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and copolymer of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride referred to in the art (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; - mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in US Pat. No. 4,009,256); - cationic polyacrylamides (as described in WO95 / 2231 1). Other cationic polymers that may be used include polymers of cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic cell derivatives, cationic starch derivatives and cationic rubber gum derivatives. Polymers of cationic polysaccharides suitable for use in the compositions of the invention include those of the formula: A-O-fR-N ^ R1) (R¿) (RJ) X '] wherein: A is a residual group of anhydroglucose, such as a cellulose anhydroglucose residue or starch. R is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, or a combination thereof. R1, R2 and R3 independently represent alkyl, arylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms per each cationic portion (ie, the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R and R3) is preferably 20 or less and X is an anionic counter-ion. Ica cellulose cation is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ US) in its polymer series Polymer JR (trademark) and LR (commercial brand), as hydroxyethylcellulose salts that reacted co-oxides substituted with trimethylammonium, referred to in the industry (CTFA as Polyq uaternium 1 0. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose that reacted co-substituted epoxide with lauryl dimethyl ammonium, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol. Corp. (Edison, NJ, US) under the trade name Polymer LM 200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418) and etherified cellulose d-copolymers and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958, 581). A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in its JAG UAR commercial series). Examples are JAG UAR C 1 3S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity. JAGUAR C 15 having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity JAGUAR C 17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR C16 which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups, as well as ammonium groups cationic quaternary, and JAG UAR 1 62, which is guar of viscosity medium high transparency, having a low degree of substitution. Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose derivative and cationic guar. Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C 13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUA C17, JAG UAR C 16 and JAGUAR C162.

Conditioners The compositions according to the invention can also be formulated as conditioners for the treatment of hair (usually after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.

- Surfactant conditioner Such a conditioner will comprise one or more conditioning surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to hair. Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture. Examples include quaternary ammonium hydroxides or salts thereof, for example, chlorides. Cationic surfactants suitable for use in hair conditioners of the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride. , decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, sebotrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof. Additional suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quatern ium-31 and Quatern ium-1 8. Mixtures of any of the above materials may also be suitable. A cationic surfactant particularly useful for use in the hair conditioner of the invention is commercially available cetpltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, as DEHYQUART, eg Henkel. In conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 5%, most preferably 0. 1 to 2% by weight of the composition.

- Fatty alcohol The conditioners of the invention advantageously incorporate fatty alcohol material. It is believed that the combined use of fatty alcohol materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed. Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 2 carbon atoms or, more preferably, 1 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous since they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of the compositions of the invention. The level of fatty alcohol material in conditioners of the invention is conveniently from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to alcohol is conveniently from 10: 1 to 1: 1, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 8, optimally from 1: 1 to 1: 4.

Silicone Silicone is a particularly preferred ingredient for hair treatment compositions of the invention. In particular, the shampoos and hair conditioners of the invention will also preferably comprise emulsified silicone particles, to enhance the performance of the conditioner. The silicone is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the composition and thus is present in an emulsified form, with the silicone present as dispersed particles. Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes, which have the designation CTF of dimethic na. Also suitable for use in the compositions of the invention (in particular, shampoos and conditioners) are the polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation of dimethiconol. Silicone gums having a slight degree of crosslinking are also suitable for use in compositions of the invention., as described, for example, in WO 96/31 1 88. These materials can impart body, volume and styling ability to the hair, as well as good wet and dry conditioning. The viscosity of the silicone emulsified by itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is usually at least 10,000 cst. In general, we have found that the performance of the conditioner increases with increased viscosity. Accordingly, the viscosity of the silicone per se is preferably at least 0.06 m2 / s (60,000 cst), most preferably at least 0.5 m2 / s (500.00 cst), ideally at less 1 m2 / s (1, 000,000 cst). Preferably, the viscosity does not exceed 100 m / s (109 cst) for ease of formulation. The silicones emulsified for use in hair conditioning shampoos of the invention will normally have an average silicone particle size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 μm. We have found that reducing particle size generally improves the performance of the conditioner. Most preferably, the average silicone particle size of the silicone emulsified in the composition is less than 2 μm, ideally ranging from 0.01 to 1 μm. Silicone emulsions having an average silicon particle size of <; 0.1 μm are usually called microemulsions. The particle size can be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern I nstruments. Silicon emulsions suitable for use in the invention are also commercially available in a pre-emulsified form.

Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1 766, DC2-1784 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emisions / m icroem u sions of dimethiconol. The reticulated silicone rubbers are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation. A preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1 787, which is a emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum. A more preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a micro-emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum. A further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in shampoos and conditioners of the invention are amin functional silicones. By "functional amino silicone" is meant a silicon containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include: (i) polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation "amodimethicone" and the general formula: HO- [Si (CH3) 2-0-] x- [Si (OH) - (CH2CH2CH2-NH-CH2CH2NH2) -O-] y-H wherein x and y are numbers depending on the molecular weight of the polymer, generally such that the molecular weight is between 5.00 and 500,000. (? i) polysiloxa we have the general formula: R'aG3.a-S¡ (Os¡G2) n- (OsiGbR '2.b) m-0-SiG3-a -R ". wherein: G is selected from H, phenyl, OH or C1-8 alkyl, for example, methyl; a is O or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0; b is 0 or 1, preferably 1; m and n are numbers, so that (m + n) can vary from 1 hast 2000, preferably from 50 to 150; m is a number from 1 to 2000, preferably from 1 to 1 0; n is a number from 0 to 1 999, preferably from 49 to 149, and R 'is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL, in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is a functional amino group selected from following: -NR "-CH2-CH2-N (R") 2 -N (R ") 2 -N + (R") 3A '-N + H (R ") 2A' -N + H2 (R") A ' -N (R ") -C H2-CH2-N + H2 (R") A ' in which R "is selected from H, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example, C alquilo. 20 alkyl, and; A is a halide ion, for example, chloride or bromide. suitable functionalities corresponding to the above formula include those polysiloxanes called "trimethylsilyllamodimethicone" as shown below, and those which are sufficiently insoluble in water, in order to be useful in the compositions of the invention: Si (CH3) 3 - O - [Si (CH3) 2 - O -] x - [S i (CH3) (R - N H - C H2CH2 NH2) - O -] - Si (CH3) 3 wherein x + y is a number from 50 to 500, and wherein R is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Preferably, the number x + y is in the range from 1 00 to 300. (ii) quaternary silicone polymers having the general formula: . { (R1) (R2) (R3) N + CH2CH (OH) CH20 (CH2) 3 [Si (R4) (R5) -0-] nS¡ (R6) (R7) - (CH_) 3 0-CH2CH (OH) CH2N + (R8) (R9) (R10)} (X ") 2 wherein R1 and R1 0 may be identical or different and may be independently selected from H, alkyl (en) yl of unsaturated, long or short saturated chain, branched chain alkoxy and ring systems cyclic C5-C8; R2 to R9 may be the same or different and may be independently selected from H, straight or branched chain lower alkyl (en) yl and C5-C8 cyclic ring systems; n is a number within the range of 60 to 120, preferably 80, and X "is preferably acetate, but may instead be halide, organic carboxylate, organic sulfonate or the like. Suitable aryl quaternities of this kind are described in EP-A-530 974.

The amino silicones are suitable for use in the shampoos and conditioners of the invention will usually have one mole of amine functionality in the range from 0.1 to 8.0 mole%, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 mole%, most preferably from 0.1 to 2.0 mole% . In general, the concentration of amine should not exceed 8.0 mol%, because we have found that too high a concentration of amine can be detrimental to the deposition of total silicon and therefore, to the performance of the conditioner. The viscosity of the amino functional silicone is not particularly critical, and can conveniently range from 0.0001 to 0.5 m2 / s (10 to 500,000 cst). Specific examples of suitable functional silicones for use in the invention are the aminosilicon oils DC2-8220, DC2 8166, DC2-8466 and DC2-8950-1 14 (all ex Dow Corning) and GE 1 149-75 (e General Electric Silicones). Emulsions of amin silicone functional oils with nonionic surfactant and / or ionic cation are also suitable. Conveniently, such preformed emulsions will have an average amino functional silicone particle size in the shampoo composition of less than 30, more preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 μm. Again, we have found that reducing particle size generally improves the performance of the conditioner. Most preferably, the silicone particle size is less than 2 μm, ideally ranging from 0.01 to 1 μm. The silicone emulsions having an average silicon particle size of <; 0. 1 5 μm, usually called microemulsions. Pre-formed silicone amino functional emulsions are also available from suppliers of silicone oils, such as Do Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include cationic emulsion DC929, cationic emulsion DC939 and nonionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2-8154 (all ex Dow Corning). An example of a quaternary silicone polymer useful in the present invention is the material K3474, eg Goldschmidt. The total amount of silicone incorporated in compositions of the invention depends on the level of conditioning desired and the material used. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the total composition, although these limits are not absolute. The lower limit is determined by the minimum level to achieve conditioning and the upper limit by the maximum level to avoid making the hair and / or foot unacceptably greasy. We have found that a total amount of silicone from 0.3 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 3%, by weight of the total composition is an adequate level.

Optional ingredients The compositions of this invention may contain any other ingredient normally used in hair treatment formulations. These other ingredients may include viscosity modifiers, preservatives, coloring agents, polyols, such as glycerin and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents, such as EDTA, antioxidants, such as vitamin E acetate, fragrances, antimicrobials, and sunscreens. Each of these ingredients will be present in an effective amount to achieve its purpose. In general, these optional devices are individually included at a level of up to 5% by weight of the total composition. Preferably, the compositions of this invention also contain auxiliaries suitable for hair care. In general, such ingredients are individually included at a level of up to 2%, preferably up to 1%, by weight of the total composition. Among the appropriate hair care aides are: (i) natural nutrients for the hair root, such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, gluthamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and / or precursors and derivatives thereof. The amino acids can be added alone, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, for example, di- and tripeptides. The amino acids can also be added in the form of a protein hydrolyzate, such as a collagen or keratin hydrolyzate. The suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These can be added alone or in the form of, for example, fruit extracts. (ii) benefit agents for hair fiber. Examples are: - ceramides, to moisturize the fiber and maintain the integrity of the cuticle. The ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources, or as synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides. A preferred ceramide is Ceramide I I, eg Quest. Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, such as Ceramides LS, eg Laboratoires Serobiologiques. free fatty acids for cuticle repair and prevention of damage Examples are branched-chain fatty acids, such as methylesanoic acid and other homologs of this series, linear chain fatty acids, such as stearic, myristic and palmic acid and unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid. A preferred fatty acid is oleic acid. The fatty acids can be added alone, as mixtures, or in the form of mixtures derived from extracts of, for example, lanolin. Mixtures of any of the above active ingredients can also be used. The invention is further utilized by the following non-limiting examples, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on a total weight unless stated otherwise.

EXAMPLE 1 Example 1: Comparative tests of wet and dry conditioning properties Five polyesters of sugars in solution were investigated for their conditioning effect on wet and dry properties of hair treated with solutions as described in the following Table: Methodology Before using hairpieces, any residue on the hair was removed by "etherifying" them. Citizens of 25.4 cm hair, 7 g, were soaked in ether for 15 minutes and then their 5% sodium lysium was immersed in a solution of the uryl ether and left in a smoked dresser until they had evaporated. all traces of ether. The hairpieces were rinsed in lukewarm running water until the water was clear. 1 00 ml of each sugar polyester solution (0.5% in dichloromethane) was prepared and the ether hair was immersed in the solution for 5 minutes. The insert was removed, drained and allowed to dry on the smoked dresser. Duplicates were prepared for each test product. Each test product is registered together with two standard haircuts, one of which is not conditioned and is qualified as one and which is highly conditioned and qualified as 9. The test hairpieces are qualified by the panelist by comparison with the hairpieces 1 and 9 for softness, ease of combing, greasy hair lack of hair cantilever in both wet and dry states. The qualified standard hairpieces 1 and 9 were hung from a 10 panel stand and the panelist was asked to evaluate them for softness, easy to comb, greasy hair and lack of overhanging hair. Once they were aware of the standard conditions for poor (1) and good (9), they were presented with the test hairpieces one at a time and asked to classify them for each attribute. The hairpieces were presented at panelists in a random order, 20 panelists were used for each test. The test was completed first in the dry state later, after spraying with running water, in the wet state. The results were analyzed by analysis of variance. The results were as shown in the following Table: 20 The ratings represent the average rating of panelists for each attribute. The results show that the hairpieces treated with the sample E (according to the invention) show appreciably improved conditioning judged on a variety of attributes of wet and dry conditioning, as compared to hairpieces treated with hair samples A to D (comparative examples). Surprisingly, it is evident from the previous test that increasing the chain length of a saturated fatty acid portion reduces the conditioning effect, whereas a saturated fatty acid portion, the opposite is observed (the conditioning effect increases with increasing chain length).

Example 2 A shampoo composition was prepared by mixing the following components in the declared amounts.

Component% by weight Lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2EO 14.0 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.0 Jaguar C13S 0.2 CARBOPOL ETD 2020 0.4 Silicone emulsion (1) 1.5 EUPERLAN PK3000 (2) 6.0 Sucrose tetraerucate (3) 0.025 Preservative, color, fragrance q. s. Water, less than 1 00% (1) Addition as DC2-1 766 (emulsion of dimethiconol in anionic surfactant, 60% active, eg Dow Corning) (2) Glycol stearate drier (eg Henkel) í3) Added as Ryoto Sugar Ester ER290 (eg Mitsubish and Kasei Foods).

Claims (3)

1. REIVI NDICATIONS 1 . A hair treatment composition comprising a fatty acid polyester of a polyol selected from cyclic polyols, sugar derivatives and mixtures thereof, wherein at least 50% by weight of the total fatty acid portions of the polyester are of unsaturated fatty acids of C20 or higher.
2. 2. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein at least 60% by weight of the total fatty acid portions of the polyester are unsaturated fatty acid portions of C20 or greater.
3. 3. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the polyol used to prepare the fatty acid polyester is a saccharide. TO . A hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the unsaturated fatty acid portions of C20 or greater are selected from erucate, brasidate, nervonate, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoate, eicosate, eicosadlenate, eicosatriate , docosadienate, docosatrienoate, docosatetraenoate and docosahexaenoate, and mixtures thereof, 5. A hair treatment composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the fatty acid polyester is selected from sucrose trirrapeate, tetrarrapeate of sucrose, pentarapeate of sucrose, trierucate of sucrose, pentaerucate of sucrose and tetraerucate of sucrose, and mixtures thereof. 6. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim, which is in the form of shampoo composition and which further comprises one or more cleaning surfactants, a cationic polymer and silicone emulsified particles. 7. A hair treatment composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, which is in the form of a conditioner and which further comprises one or more conditioning surfactants, a fatty alcohol and emulsified silicone particles.