MXPA00003895A

MXPA00003895A - Hair composition containing a polycondensate comprising at least a polyurethane and/or polyurea unit and a polyol

Info

Publication number: MXPA00003895A
Application number: MXPA/A/2000/003895A
Authority: MX
Inventors: Sturla Jeanmichel; Bremenson Jeanluc
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1998-08-27
Filing date: 2000-04-19
Publication date: 2001-06-26

Abstract

The invention concerns hair compositions in the form of an aerosol and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a multiple sequence polymer comprising at least a polyurethane and/or polyurea unit, at least a polyol, an organic solvent and a propellant. The invention also concerns a hair styling or hair dressing method using said compositions and their use for making hair care products for hairdressing or hairstyling.

Description

"CAPILLARY COMPOSITION CONTAINING A POLYCONDENSATE COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE POLYURETHANE AND / OR POLYUREA UNIT AND A POLYOL". DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to hair compositions prepared in the form of an aerosol and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a multi-sequence polymer comprising at least one polyurethane and / or polyurea unit, at least one polyol, an organic solvent and a propellant gas. The invention also relates to a method for shaping or maintaining the hairstyle comprising the embodiment of e; compositions as well as their use for the manufacture of hair products, in order to obtain a maintenance or a conformation of the hairstyle. The fixation of the hairstyle is an important element of the hair that consists in maintaining the shape already made or in cushion forming the hair and in fixing them simultaneously. The hair products for shaping and / or the most widespread styling on the cosmetics market are spray compositions essentially constituted by a solution that is most often alcoholic or aqueous and by one or more materials, generally polymer resins, whose function is to form welds between the hair, also called fixative materials, mixed with various co-mestic adjuvants.This solution can be conditioned, for example, in an appropriate aerosol container placed under pressure with the help of REF .: 119515 The quality of the spray obtained by means of an aerosol device, that is to say, essentially the distribution of the droplets in the space at the exit of the nozzle, depends - strongly on the chemical constitution of the composition used. a very particular interest for the formulation of cosmetic compositions that provide a quality of spray c every time more satisfying. The compositions intended for fixing and / or for maintaining the hairstyle sometimes have the disadvantage of altering the cosmetic properties of the hair. Thus, the hair can become rough and lose its natural balance. Therefore combing compositions are sought which fix and / or maintain the hairstyle well by providing good cosmetic properties. It is known from DE 195 41 326 styling compositions distributed from an aerosol device containing, in a hydroalcoholic medium, a polymer of unit-polyurethane as a fixing polymer, and a propellant. These compositions, which are satisfactory already in terms of fixation - of the hairstyle, can nevertheless be improved as regards particularly the cosmetic properties that the COJIs themselves give to the hair by offering an optimum spray quality. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Firm has requested you, against all expectations, that by associating certain particular conditioning agents with a polycommodity containing at least one polyurethane and / or polyurea unit, it is possible to comply with the aforementioned requirements . The subject of the invention is a capillary composition intended to be applied from an aerosol device comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, in a relative proportion by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (i) from 0.1 to 20% of a polycondensate comprising at least one polyurethane and / or polyurea sequence. (ii) from 7.5 to 70% of an organic solvent; (iii) from 15 to 85% of a propellant gas, characterized in that the composition further comprises from 0.01 to 20% of at least one polyol or of a mixture thereof, the ratio being by weight of the propellant gas with respect to the organic solvent greater than or equal to 1.75. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means a C 2 to C 4 compound of the linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon type., which has at least two hydroxyl functions in the alkyl chain, as well as the polyether polymers of these alkyl polyhydroxy compounds. Another object of the invention relates to a method of shaping or maintaining the hairstyle that comprises the embodiment of this composition. Another object of the invention also relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of hair compositions, in order to obtain a maintenance or conformation of the hairstyle. The polycondensates comprising at least one polyurethane and / or polyurea sequence particularly considered by the present invention are those described in EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, FR 2 743 297 and EP 06 48 455 -whose Solid signature is Holder, as well as EP 0 656.021 or W0 94/03510 of the Basf Company or EP 0619 111 of the National Starch Company. The polycondensates used according to the invention can be soluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium, paricularly after neutralization by an organic or mineral base, or even form a dispersion in this medium. The dispersion can then comprise at least 0.05% of surfactant allowing the dispersion and the dispersion adjustment of the polycondensate. According to the invention, any type of surfactant may be used in the said dispersion, but preferably a non-ionic surfactant. The average particle size of the polycondensate in the dispersion is preferably between 0.1 and 1 micron. By way of example, the polycondensate may be formed by a block arrangement, this arrangement being obtained -particularly from: (1) at least one compound containing two or more than two active hydrogen atoms per molecule; (2) at least one diol or a mixture of diols containing acidic radicals or their salts; (3) at least one di- or polyisocyanate. Advantageously, the compounds (1) are chosen from -the group comprising the diols, the diamines, the polyesters, the polyetherols or their mixture. The compounds (1) which are preferred are polyethers and linear polypropylene glycols, in particular those which are obtained by reacting ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with water or diethylene or dipropyl glycol in the presence of sodium hydroxide as catalyst. These polyglycols generally have a molecular weight of between about 600 and 20,000. Other preferred organic compounds are those having mercapto, amino, carboxyl or hydroxyl groups. Among these, polyhydroxy compounds, such as polyether diols, polyester diols, polyalkyl diols, polyamide diols, polyamide diols, poly (alkylen ether) diols, polythioethers, are more particularly cited. diols and -the polycarbonate diols. Preferred polyether diols are, for example, the condensation products of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or tetrahydrofuran, their copolymerization or condensation products, grafted or in blocks, such as mixtures of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene, and the olefin polymerization products, at high pressure, with the alkylene oxide condensates. Suitable polyethers are prepared, for example, by condensation of alkylene oxides and polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylenglycol and 1,4-butanediol. Polyester diols, polyester amides, polyamide diols are preferably saturated and are obtained, for example, from the reaction of saturated or unsaturated polycarboxylic acids with polyhydric alcohols, diamines or polyamines. To prepare these compounds, for example, adipic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid and maleic acid can be used. Suitable polyhydric alcohols for preparing the polyesters include, for example, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylenolyl, 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol, and hexane diol. It is also possible to use aminoalcohols, for example ethanolamine. The diamines suitable for preparing the polyester amides are ethylenediamine and hexamethylenediamine. Suitable polyacetals can be prepared, for example, from 1,4-butanediol or hexanediol and formaldehyde. Suitable polyethioethers can be prepared, for example, by condensation reaction between thioglycols either alone or in combination with other glycols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol or with other polyhydroxy compounds.

Polyhydroxy compounds which already contain urea or urethane groups, natural polyols, which can be modified for a longer time, for example, castor oil and carbohydrates can also be used. More preferably, the compound of group (1) is a -poliesterol, particularly a polyester diol formed by the reaction of at least one (di) polyol (1 a) and by at least one acid (1b). The (di) -pol i ol (1) is in particular chosen from -the group comprising neopentyl glycol, 1,4-butanediol, -hexanediol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, buty lengl icol, the neopenti lgl icol and (di) -pol ietilen-glycol. The acid (1b) is in particular chosen from the group comprising phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, -adipic acid and (poly i) -lactic acid. As the compound (2), it is particularly possible to use a hydroxycarboxylic acid such as dimethylol propanoic acid (DMPA) or a 2, 2-hydroxymethyl carboxylic acid 1. In general, the compound (2) is useful as coupling block. As copolymers (2), those which comprise at least one poly- (alpha- (alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid) are preferred.) Particularly preferred compounds (2) according to the invention are those selected from the group consisting of 2.2. -di- (hydroxymethyl) acetic acid, 2,2-dihydroxymethi-1 propionic acid, 2,2-dihydroxymethi-1-butyric acid, 2,2-dihydroxymethyl-1-pentanoic acid, di- or polyisocyanate (3) to be chosen in particular from the group comprising hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate (IDPI), toluylene diisocyanate, diphenylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate (DPMD) and dicyclohexy-limetane 4,4'-diisocyanate (DCMD) , methi len-di-p-pheni 1 diisocyanate * -methylene-bis (4-cyclohexy-1-isocyanate), isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthalene diisocyanate, -4,4 ' -difeni lmetano diisocianato, the 2,2 '-dimeti 1-4,4' -dife-nilmethane diisocianato, the 1,3-phenylene diisocyanate, the 1, 4-fe nileno d isocyanate, mixtures of 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diis cyanate, 2,2 '-dichloro-4,4'-diisocyanate diphenylmethane, -2,4-dibromo-1,5-diisocyanate naphthalene, 1,4-diisocyanate butane, 1,6-hexane diisocyanate, 1,4-cyclohexane diisocyanate. The polycondensate can be formed with the aid of a supplementary com-ponent (4) which serves in general to lengthen the polycondensate chain. These compounds (4) can be selected from the group comprising, in particular, saturated or unsaturated glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, triethylglycol, aminoalcohols such as ethanolamine, propanolamine, butane-lamellar, heterocyclic, aromatic, cycloaliphatic, and aliphatic primary amines, diamines, carboxylic acids such as aliphatic, aromatic, heterocyclic carboxylic acids with oxalic, succiramic, glutaric, adipic, sebacic, te-reftalic, the aminocarboxylic acids. The (4) -preferred compounds are the aliphatic diols. The polycondensates according to the invention can also be formed from supplementary compounds (5) with a silicone structure such as polysiloxanes, polyalkyl siloxanes or polyalkyl loxanes, particularly polystyrene, polyesters, polyesters, and polymers. if loxanes and the polyphenols 1 s_i_ loxanes, which eventually comprise hydrocarbon chains -grafted on the silicon atoms. According to an advantageous embodiment of the combinations according to the invention, the polymer polyurethane and / or polyurea sequences have a repeating unit of ba that corresponds to the general formula I given below: - X - B - X - CO - NH - R - NH - CO - (I) in which: X represents 0 and / or NH, - B is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, this radical being substituted or not, and R is a divalent radical selected from the alkylene radicals of aromatic type, aliphatic of C, to C2Q, cycloal ifatic of C1 to C2Q, these radicals being substituted or not. Preferably, radical B is a radical of C. a ^ and is a carrier of a group that has one or more func- tion ( es) carboxy 1 ica (s) and / or one of the sulfonic functions, the indicated carboxylic and / or sulphonic futions being found in free form or partially or totally neutralized by a mineral or organic base. The radical R is advantageously chosen from the radicals which correspond to the following formulas: CH2. -? in which b is an integer between 0 and 3, and c an integer between 1 and 20, preferably between 2 and 12. In particular, the radical R is chosen from the radicals hexamethylene, 4, 4 -bifeni lenoethane, 2,4- and / or 2,6-tolyl, 1,5-naphthyl, p-phenylene, 4,4bis-methyl cyclohexyl and the divalent radical derived from isophorone. The polycondensate used according to the invention comprising at least one polyurethane and / or polyurea sequence can advantageously also comprise at least one polysiloxane sequence whose base repeating unit corresponds, for example, to the general formula II given below: X - P - X CO NH - R NH - CO - (ID in which: - P is a polynucleotide segment, - X represents 0 and / or NH, and - R is a divalent radical selected from alkylane radicals of the aromatic, aliphatic type of C. to C2Q, syrah these radicals substituted or not. Advantageously, the poly isi loxái ico P segment responds to the general formula III given below: A A i (Yes O) Si - y (III) i? TO wherein: - radicals A, which may be identical or different, are selected from, on the one hand, monovalent hydrocarbon radicals of C, C2Q exempt or substantially free of ethylenic saturation and, on the other hand, aromatic radicals, Y represents a bivalent hydrocarbon radical, and - z represents an integer, selected in such a way that the average molecular weight of the polysiloxane segment is between 300 and 10,000. In general, the bivalent radical Y is chosen from the alkylene radicals of the formula - (CH2) -, in which a represents an integer which may be between 1 and 10. The radicals A can be chosen from alkyl radicals, in particular the methyl, ethyl, propyl, and ss propyl radicals, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and 0-tadecyl, the cycloalkyl radicals, in particular the radical-cyclohexyl, the aryl radicals, particularly phenyl and naphthyl, the radicals ar ilalkyl, particularly benzyl and feni. lethyl, as well as the tolyl and xylyl radicals. The composition according to the invention comprises, in relative proportion by weight relative to the total weight of the composition between 0.1 and 20% of the polycondensate comprising at least one polyurethane and / or polyurea sequence, more advantageously between 1 and 15%, and more advantageously still between 2 and 8% of this polycondensate. It is used between 7.5 and 70% of the organic solvent, more advantageously between 10 and 50%, and more advantageously still between 10 and 25% in relative proportion in weight with respect to the total weight of the solvent. the composition. According to the invention, the organic solvent is particularly chosen from the group comprising the lower alcohols of C. to C. such as ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl acetate, acetate of butyl, ethyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and mixtures thereof. Preferably, ethanol is used. According to an advantageous embodiment of the composition according to the invention, it comprises in relative proportion by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, between 25 and 60% of the propellant gas, and even more advantageously between the 30 and 50%. According to the invention, it is preferably used as the propellant gas, a gas soluble or not in the composition such as dimethyl ether, fluorinated or non-fluorinated hydrocarbons, the usual liquefied gases or a mixture of these propellant gases. Even more advantageously, dimethylether is used. The relative proportion by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in polyol or in mixture of polyols is between 0.01 and 20%, more advantageously between 0.01 and 10%, and more advantageously still between 0.05 and 5%. The polyols used according to the invention can be chosen in particular from the polyols of C2 to C1? as well as polyalkylene glycols such as more particularly polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols. Preferably, it is used as polyol, a derivative of alkane polyhydroxy side of C2 to Cg, Advantageously, it is chosen-a compound of C- to C ?, and more particularly still glycine, propylene glycol or 1, 3- propane diol The compositions according to the invention can on the other hand contain conventional cosmetic additives selected in particular from fatty substances, thickening agents, softeners, anti-foam agents, moisturizing agents, antiperspirant agents, alkalizing agents, dyes , pigments, perfumes, advisors valants, surfactants, hydrocarbon polymers-two, volatile silicones or not, proteins and vitamins. - - There is a very particular interest in the realization of cosmetic compositions according to the invention for which the amount of volatile organic compounds expelled is getting smaller and smaller. In particular, it may be advantageous to associate at least one other anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric fixing polymer to the polyurethane of the invention. The invention may be better understood with the aid of the non-limiting example which follows and which constitutes an advantageous embodiment of the compositions according to the invention. Example: The capillary composition according to the invention given below was performed. Polycondensate polyester lactic acid / ethylene glycol P (MIS-EG) - dimethylol propane acid (DMPA) - isoformone and socianate 4 g - Glycerol 0.07 g Ethanol 15 g Dimethylether 35 g - 2-amino-2-methy1-1-propanol. ..cs neutralization Demineralized water csp 100 g It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims

R E I V I N D I C A C I O N S
Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property: 1.- Capillary composition intended to be applied from an aerosol device comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, in a relative proportion by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.1 to 20% of a polycondensate comprising at least one polyurethane and / or polyurea sequence. (ii) from 7.5 to 70% of an organic solvent, (iii) from 15 to 85% of a propellant gas, characterized in that the composition further comprises - a 0.01 at 20% of at least one polyol or of a mixture of esters, the weight ratio of the propellant gas to the organic solvent being greater than or equal to 1.75. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polycondensate is formed by a block arrangement obtained from: (1) at least one compound containing two or more active two hydrogen atoms per molecule; (2) at leastundiol or a mixture of diols containing acid radicals or their salts; (3) at least one di- or polyisocyanate.
3. - Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the compounds - are chosen from the group comprising diols, diamines, polyesteroles, polyetherols or their mixture.
4. Composition according to rei indication 2, characterized by the fact that the compound t-?:? it is a carboxyp acid with 2,2-hydroxymethyl.
5. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the compound (3) is chosen from the group comprising the hexamethylene diisocyanate, the isophorone isocyanate, the tolui lendi isocyanate, the diphenylmethane 4,4'-di - isocyanate and 4,4'-dicyclohexy-limetane-di-isocyanate, methylene-di-phenyl-diisocyanate, methylene-bis (4-cyclohexy-1-isocyanate), isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, , 5-naphthalene diisocyanate, 4,4 '-difeni 1 -methane diisocyanate, -2,2' -dimeti 1-4,4 '-difeni lmethane diisocyanate, 1,3-phenylene-diisocyanate, 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate, mixtures of -2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 2,2'-dichloro-4,4'-diisocyanate diphenylmethane, 2,4-dibromo-l, 5-di-isocyanate naphthaleno, 1,4-diisocyanatobutane, 1,6-hexane diisocyanate, 1,4-cyclohexane diisocyanate.
6. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polycondensate is formed in part from at least one additional compound having a silicone structure and chosen from the group comprising the poly siloxanes, the polysaccharides, and the polysaccharide. lsoxanos or polyalkyl loxanes, particularly polyethylsiloxanes, polyesters, loxanes and polyesters, which optionally comprise hydrocarbon chains grafted to the silicon atoms.
7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyurethane and / or polyurea sequences of the polycondensate have a repeating base unit corresponding to the general formula I1 given below: - X X '- CO NH - R NH CO (I1) wherein: - X 'represents 0 and / or NH, - B is a bivalent hydrocarbon radical, this radical being substituted or not, and - R is a divalent radical selected from alkylene radicals of the aromatic, aliphatic type of C. a C? n, cyclo-aliphatic C1 to C20 > these radicals being substituted or not.
8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that B is a hydrocarbon radical bivalejí
9. - Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the radical R is chosen from the "group comprising the hexamethylene, 4,4'-bifeni-lentomene-2,4- and / or 2,6-tol radicals Ilene, 1, 5-naphthylene, p-phenylene, 4,4-bis-methylene cyclohexyl and the divalent radical derived from the ison 3 10. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polycondensate has a unit repetitive base that responds to the formula (II1):
- X X '- CO NH - R - NH CO (II') in which: - P is a polynucleotide segment, - X 'represents 0 and / or NH, and - R is a divalent radical selected from the alkylene radicals of the aromatic, aliphatic type of C,. a C? r), C-Cloaliphatic C to C20, these radicals being substituted or not.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises, in relative proportion by weight, between-1 and 15% of the polycondensate, and more advantageously between 2 and 8%. .
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises between 10 and 50% of the organic solvent, and more advantageously between 10 and 25%.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propellant gas is present in a relative concentration by weight - comprised between 25 and 60%, and more advantageously between 30 and 50%.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the relative proportion by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in polyol or in polyol mixture is between 0, 01 and 10, and more advantageously still between 0.05 and 5%.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol chosen from the group comprising the compounds of C2 to C *, - of the linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon type, which it has at least two hydroxyl functions in the alkyl chain and the polyether polymers of these alkyl polyhydroxy compounds.
16. The composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the polyol is an alkane-polyhydroxy derivative side of C2 to C12, preferably of C2 to Cß, and more preferably of C3 to Cg.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains in addition to the conventional cosmetic additives selected from the group comprising the fatty substances, the weighing agents, the softeners, the anti-foam agents , hydrating agents, antiperspirant agents, alkalinizing agents, dyes, pigments, perfumes, advisers, surfactants, hydrocarbon polymers-two, volatile silicones or not, particularly anionic silicones, polyols , proteins and vitamins.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one additional fixing polymer -selected from the group comprising the non-ionic, cationic, anionic and amphoteric non-ionic polymers. .
19. An aerosol device consisting of a container containing an aerosol composition according to any one of the preceding claims in a suitable container, as well as a means for distributing the composition.
20. Procedure for shaping or maintaining the hairstyle, characterized in that it comprises making a composition according to any of the rei indications 1 to 17.
21.- Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, for the manufacture of hair products, with a view to obtaining a maintenance or shaping of the hairstyle.