MXPA00002373A

MXPA00002373A - Photoprotectant cosmetic composition containing an anionic surfactant, compositions filtering ultraviolet radiation and an amphiphilic cationic or dipolar ion compound and its use

Info

Publication number: MXPA00002373A
Application number: MXPA/A/2000/002373A
Authority: MX
Inventors: Allard Delphine; Candau Didier; Nicolas Morgantini Luc
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1998-07-09
Filing date: 2000-03-08
Publication date: 2001-07-09

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition, in particular for skin and/or hair protection, in the form of a dispersion comprising two non-miscible phases stabilised by at least an anionic surfactant selected among the salts of fatty acid and of monovalent or polyvalent metals, of ammonium or organic bases, a compound filtering ultraviolet radiation capable of being adsorbed at the interface of said non-miscible phases, derived from benzylidene camphor and comprising at least a sulphonic acid function partially or completely neutralised, a metal oxide nanopigment coated with hydrocarbon hydrophobic agents and an amphiphilic cationic or dipolar ion compound which leads with the anionic surfactant to the formation of a compound capable of lowering the water/paraffin oil interfacial tension at 40°C by more than 14 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.1 mmole/100g, by more than 26mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.5 mmole/100g and by more than 33 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 1 mmole/100g.

Description

I COSMETIC PHOTOPROTECTING COMPOSITION THAT CONNECTS A ANIONXCO SURFACTANT, FILTER COMPOUNDS OF THE ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION AND CATIÓNO COMPOSITE OR ANPHYPHYRIC ANFOTHERIC AND ITS USE DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for topical use, more particularly intended for the photoprotection of the skin and / or hair against ultraviolet radiation, as well as its use in the aforementioned cosmetic application. More particularly, the present invention relates to a photoprotective composition in the form of a dispersion comprising two immiscible phases, stabilized by at least one anionic surfactant, an ultraviolet radiation filtering compound and an amphoteric or amphiphilic cationic compound. It is said that luminous radiations of wavelengths between 280 nm and 480 nm allow the tanning of the human epidermis, and that the rays of wavelengths between 280 nm and 380 nm, known under the name of UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns that REF: 30654 can damage the development of natural tanning; this UV-B radiation can then be filtered. It is also said that UV-A rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause tanning of the skin, are likely to induce an alteration of this, mainly in the case of a sensitive skin or a skin continually exposed to solar radiation. UV-A causes in particular a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles that lead to premature aging. These favor the triggering of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in certain subjects, and may even be the origin of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. It is therefore desirable to filter the UV-A radiation. Numerous cosmetic compositions intended for photoprotection (UV-A and / or UV-B) of the skin have been proposed to date. In the state of the art, compositions based on active compounds are known which include an acid functional group, free or at least partially neutralized, which filters UV radiation. In particular, certain sulfonic compounds are known for their good filtering properties of light radiation of wavelengths comprised between 280 and 400 nm, and more particularly between 280 and 360 n, their thermal stability and their photochemical stability. However, the formulation of products with Very high protection index (IP) implies the use of high concentrations of UV filters, which is undesirable, neither from a toxicological point of view in certain cases, nor from an economic point of view. E.1 Protection index (IP) is expressed mathematically by the radiation of the irradiation time necessary to achieve the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filters at the times necessary to achieve the erythematogenic threshold without UV filters. It is therefore important to be able to propose novel formulation systems that allow the protection index to be improved for the same proportion of filters and, consequently, to reduce the proportions or contents of UV filters in the formulations. After major investigations conducted in this domain, the applicant has discovered, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that it would be possible to solve this problem and improve the Protection Index of the filters by modifying the interfacial behavior of the anionic surfactant, by using a cationic compound or Amphoteric amphiphilic which conducts with the anionic surfactant to the formation of a compound capable of reducing the water / oil interfacial tension of paraffin at 40 ° C to more than 14 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.1 mmol / 100 g, greater than 26 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.5.mmol / 100 g and greater than 33 mN.m "1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 1 mmol / 100 g.This discovery is the basis of The present invention therefore has for its object a cosmetic composition for topical use., in particular for the photoprotection of the skin j and / or of the hair, in the form of a dispersion comprising two immiscible phases, stabilized by at least one anionic surfactant selected from the salts of fatty acids and of mono- or polyvalent metals, of ammonium or of organic bases, a filtering compound of ultraviolet radiation constituted by a hydrophilic filter comprising at least a partially or totally neutralized sulfonic acid functional group, which is capable of being adsorbed at the interface of said immiscible phases, which have by formula: in which: - Z designates a group of formula R2 denotes -H or -S03H; n denotes 0, or an integer greater than or equal to l and less than or equal to 4; Ri represents one or more alkyl or alkoxy radicals, identical or different, linear or branched, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the two methylidenecamphor radicals are on the phenyl nucleus in meta position or for one in relation to the other, as well as a nanopigold of metal oxide selected from the oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium, and mixtures thereof, wrapped with hydrophobic hydrophilic coating agents, having an average primary particle size ranging from 5 to 100 nm, composition characterized in that it also contains an amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound which leads with the anionic surfactant to the formation of a compound capable of decreasing the water / oil interfacial tension of the paraffin at 40 ° C, more than 14 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.1 mmal / lOQ g, greater than 26 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.5 mmol / lOO g greater than 33 mN.irf1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 1 mmol / 100 g. The interfacial tension is measured according to the method of the ring of Lecomte de Noüy described for example in Galénica, (F. Puisieux, M. Seiller), 5 The Dispersed Systems, Surface Agents and Emulsions, chapter 2, p. 86-89.

The amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound can be chosen from compounds having the formula: wherein: Ri to R4, identical or different, represent an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, alkyl, alkyl sulfonate, hydroxyalkylsulfonate, cycloalkyl, alkenyl, aryl or arylalkyl radical of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear or branched, which may be be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or sulfur or by a group -NH- or amide -CONH-, or Ri and R2 and / or R3 and R4 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated or unsaturated five or six membered heterocycle, unsubstituted or substituted by alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, alkenyl, aryl or arylalkyl radicals of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of the radicals Ri to R4 or the substituents of the heterocycle and preference at most two of these radicals or substituents include at least 6 carbon atoms; X- represents a mineral or organic ion selected from the halide, sulfate, bisulfate, methosulfate, paratoluenesulfonate, saccharinate, preferably chloride or bromide ions; it being understood that when at least one of the radicals Ri to R4 represents an alkylcarboxylate, alkylsulfonate or hydroxyalkylsulfonate radical, the X- ion does not exist. The amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound can also have the formula (II) below: • wherein: - R5 represents a linear or branched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, alkylcarboxylate, cycloalkyl, alkenyl, aryl, arylalkyl radical of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or sulfur , or by a group -NH- or amide -CONH-; A, B or D represent CH, N, N + R6, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, which may be interrupted by one or several heterotams, it being understood that only one of the symbols A, B or D represents N or N + R6; with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R5 or R6 includes at least 6 carbon atoms; - X- represents a mineral or organic ion selected from the halide, sulfate, bisulfate, methosulfate, paratoluenesulfonate, saccharinate, preferably chloride or bromide ions. m = 0, 1 or 2. The radicals Ri to Re that include at least 6 carbon atoms are preferably radicals of 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The cationic or amphoteric amphiphilic compound of the formula (I) is preferably chosen from betaines such as decylbetaine, laurylbetaine, lauramidopropylbetaine, iristiibetaine, myristamidopropylbetaine, cocobetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocoamidopropylbetaine, 1P cetyl betaine, palmamidopropilbetaina, palmitamidopro ilbetai to, ricinoleamidopropilbetaí to, estearamidopropilbetaina, stearylbetaine, oleyl betaine, oleamidopropyl, behenilbetaína, sultaines such as laurilsultaina, laurilhidroxisultaina, cocosu1taina, cocohidroxisultaína, cocoamidopropyl, oleamidopropilhidroxisultaína, alkyltrimethylammonium salts such as bromide or dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, bromide, methosulfate or tosylate, tallow chloride (hydrogenated) trimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, or even benzalkonium chloride, bromide or saccharinate, cetalconium chloride, cetearalkonium bromide, lauralconium chloride or bromide, stearalkonium chloride , olealconium chloride, behenalconium chloride, and cocoylbenzylhydroxyethylimidazolinium chloride. The cationic or amphoteric amphiphilic compound of the formula (II) is preferably chosen from cetylpyridinium chloride or - laurylpyridinium chloride.

? As the amphoteric cationic or amphiphilic compound used according to the invention, betaines may be mentioned more particularly. The amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound is used in concentrations of 0.1 to 15% by weight of active material, and preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition. A particularly preferred compound of the formula (III) is that corresponding to n = 0: benzene-1, - [di (3-methylidenecampho-1-sulphonic acid)]. To neutralize the acid functional group of the filters of formula (III) mentioned above, the hydroxides of mono- or polyvalent metals, ammonia, or organic bases such as alkylamines or alkanolamines can be used. The filter compounds of formula (III) used in the compositions of the invention are present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 0.2 to 10% by weight of active material and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of active material.

The metal oxide nanopigments used according to the invention preferably have an average primary particle size ranging from 10 to 50 nm. Preferably, a nanopigment of amorphous or crystallized titanium oxide in the form of rutile and / or anatase is used. The hydrophobic hydrocarbon coating of the nanopigment preferably comprises a fatty acid or a salt of fatty acid and of mono- or polyvalent metal, of ammonium or of organic base. A particularly preferred nanopigment is the nanopigment of titanium oxide coated with alumina and aluminum stearate, sold under the name 'Microtitanium Diox ™ of MT-100 T' or MT-100 TV 'by the TAYCA Company, or even the nanopigment of Rutile titanium oxide wrapped or coated with stearic acid, sold under the name "TTO-S4" by the Society ISHIHARA SANGYO. The metal oxide nanopigment is present in the photoprotective composition according to the invention in a proportion of 0.1 to 15% by weight and preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The anionic surfactants are present in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to % by weight of active material in relation to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly from 0.5 to 5% of active material. The composition according to the invention can also contain at least one nonionic surfactant, chosen from ester-binding compounds such as glycerol and fatty acid esters, glycerol and fatty acid esters, polyglycerol esters and polyglycerol esters. fatty acids, the esters of tetritol, pentitol and of hexitol and of fatty acids, the esters of polieti lenglicoles and of fatty acids, sucrose and fatty acid esters, sucrose and triglycerides esters, sorbitan esters and fatty esters and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters or polysorbates, ether-linked compounds such as polyoxyethylene glycols and alkylphenol ethers and ethers of polyoxyethylene glycols and fatty alcohols, amide-bonded compounds such as polyoxyethylenated alkylamides and alkylene oxide c-polymers. Nonionic surfactants can be present in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly from 1 to 3% by weight of active material. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain one or more complementary sunscreen active in the UV-A and / or UV-B, hydrophilic or lipophilic surely different from the filters defined above. The complementary filters are preferably chosen from cinnamic derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications EP-A-863145, EP-A-517104, EP -A-570838, EP-A-796851, EP-A-775698 and EP-A-878469, the benzophenone derivatives, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives, the ß, ß'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, the benzimidazole derivatives, the bis (benzotriazolylphenol) derivatives such as those described in patent applications GB-A-2303549, DE-A-19726184 and EP-A-893119, the p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, the filter polymers and silicone filters described in international application O-93-04665, as well as the compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups such as as described in the patent application EP-A-669323. As examples of complementary sunscreens active in UV-A and / or UV-B, there may be mentioned: p-aminobenzoic acid, oxyethylenated p-aminobenzoate (25 moles), 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoate N-oxypropylenated ethyl, glycerol p-aminobenzoate, homomenthyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, triethanolamine salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane , 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, methyl diisopropylcin ate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, diethanolamine 4-methoxycinnamate, menthyl anthranilate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3, 3'-diphenylacrylate, ethyl-2-cyano -3,3 '-diphenylacrylate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, 3- (4'-trimethylammonium) -benzylidene-boronan-2-one methylsulfate 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4 -methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2, 2'4, 4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-, 4'-dimethoxy ibenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone, 2-idroxy-4-methoxy-1-methylbenzophenone, a- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) -tolyl-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, 3- (4 '-sulfo) benzylidene-bornan-2-one and its salts, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene), 1-ca for, 3-benzylidene-d, 1-camphor, urocanic acid, 2,4,6-tris- [p- (2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxycarbonyl) aniline ] - 1, 3, 5-triazine, 2- [(p- (terbutylamido) anilino] -4,6-bis- (p- (2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxycarbonyl) anilino] -1, 3, 5 -triazine, 2,4-bis { [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl.}. -6- (4-methoxy-phenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine, polymer of N- (2 and 4) - [(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) ethyl) benzyl] -acrylamide, the polyorganosiloxanes with malonate functional group, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3, 3, 5 acid, 5 '-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, [2,2'-methylene-bis- [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol], sold under the name MIXXIMBB / 100 by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL The compositions according to the invention may also contain artificial tanning and / or burnishing agents for the skin (self-tanning agents), such as, for example, dihydroxyacetone (DHA). The compositions d The invention may further comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen primarily from fatty substances, organic solvents, thickeners and / or ionic or non-ionic gelling agents, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, hydroxy acids, vitamins, hydrophilic or lipophilic active substances such as ceramides, reducers, silicones, free antiradical agents, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, perfumes, preservatives, fillers, sequestrants, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents, colorants, or UB any other ingredient commonly used in cosmetics. The fatty substances can be constituted by an oil or a wax or its mixture, petrolatum, paraffin, lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin; these also include fatty acids, fatty alcohols such as lauric, cetyl, ironic, stearic, palmitic, oleic, as well as 2-octyldodecanol, fatty acid esters such as glycerol monostearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, benzoates of 12 to 15 carbon atoms (Finsolv TN from FINITEX), polyoxypropylene myristic alcohol with 3 moles of propylene oxide (ITCONOL APM from WITCO), triglycerides of fatty acids of 6 to 18 carbon atoms such as caprylic / capric trilicerides. The oils are chosen from animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils and principally hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated castor oil, petrolatum oil, paraffin oil, Purcellin oil. (stearyl octanoate), silicone oils and isoparaffins. The waxes are chosen from animal, fossil, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes. Mention may be made mainly of beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, ozokerite wax, Montana wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, waxes and silicone resins. Among the organic solvents, there may be mentioned lower alcohols and polyols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin and sorbitol. the thickeners and / or gelling agents can be chosen from crosslinked polyacrylic acids, guar gums and modified or non-modified celluloses such as hydroxypropylated guar gum, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, or hydroxyethylcellulose, silicas such as Bentona Gel MiO sold by the NL INDUSTRIES Company or the Veegum Ultra, sold by the company POLYPLASTIC. Of course, the person skilled in the art will be careful in choosing that or those eventual complementary compounds and / or their amounts, in such a way that the advantageous properties related intrinsically to the photoprotective composition according to the invention, in particular the Protection Index, are not, or substantially, altered by the addition (s) considered. The cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a protective composition for the human epidermis or the hair against ultraviolet radiation, as an antisun composition or as a makeup product. This composition can be present in particular in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (H / E, E / H, H / E / H or E / H / E), such as a cream, a milk or a gel-cream, powder , solid bar and eventually be conditioned in aerosol and presented in the form of foam or spray. The compositions of the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art, in particular those intended for the preparation of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions. When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), French Patents FR- A-2, 315, 991 and FR-A-2, 416, 008). Oiro object of the present invention is a method of non-therapeutic treatment of the skin or hair, intended to protect against the effects of ultraviolet radiation, consisting of applying on them an effective amount of a cosmetic composition such as that defined previously. When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for the protection of the human epidermis against ultraviolet radiation, or as an antisun composition, it can be presented in the form of dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, in the form of non-ionic vesicular dispersion or even in the form of an emulsion such as a cream, a milk or a gel-cream, in the form of a solid stick and being packaged in an aerosol and presented in the form of foam or spray. When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for the protection of the hair, it can be presented in the form of a shampoo, emulsion, non-ionic vesicular dispersion, be conditioned in aerosol and be presented in the form of foam or rubble; This may, for example, constitute a composition for rinsing, to be applied before or after shampooing, before or after coloring or decoloration, before, during or after the permanent or straightening, a permanent or casting composition, coloring or discoloration of the hair. When the composition is used as a make-up product for eyelashes, eyebrows or skin, such as epidermis treatment cream, dye base, lipstick, eyelid paint, paint for cheeks, mask (mascara) or eyeliner for eyes called 'eye liner', this can be presented in liquid, solid or pasty, anhydrous or watery form, as single or multiple emulsions or even non-ionic vesicular dispersions, such as powders or solid bars In an indicative manner, for the sunscreen formulations according to the invention having an oil-water emulsion type support, the aqueous phase (which mainly comprises the hydrophilic filters) generally represents 50 to 95% by weight, preference of 70 to 90% by weight, in relation to the whole of the formulation and the oily phase (which mainly comprises the filters 2 ^ lipophilic) from 4 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the formulation as a whole. The invention will be better illustrated with the following examples.

EXAMPLE 1 An antisun composition according to the invention has been prepared in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, containing the following constituents, the proportions of which are expressed in weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition: Mixture of glycerol stearate and 2% polyethylene glycol stearate with 100 moles of ethylene oxide, sold under the name 'ARLACEL 165' by the ICI Company Stearic acid 2.5% Cetyl alcohol 0.5% Silicone rubber: polydimethylsiloxane a,? - 5.5 % dihydroxylated in cyclomethicone, sold under the name DC-2-9071 by the company DOW CORNING Triglycerides of fatty acids 4% Isoparaffin 3% Shea butter 1.5% Jojoba oil 1.5% Nanopigment of titanium oxide sold 5% under the name 'MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100T' by the company TAYCA 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2-ethylhexyl 10% sold under the name 'UVINUL N-539' by the BASF Company 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane 2% sold under the name 'PARSOL 1789' by the company ROCHE Glycerin 4% Propylene glycol 4% Benzene-1, 4- [di (3-methylidenecampho-10-0.5% MA sulfonic acid)} Cocobetaine 2% MA Acrylic acid / acrylate copolymer of 0.12% alkyl of 10 to 30 crosslinked carbon atoms sold under. the name * PEMULEN TR1"by the company GOODRICH Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 0.1% Triethanolamine 0.83% Preservatives css Perfume css Demineralized water cbp 100% Comparative compositions A and B of the same composition as described above have also been prepared, containing the composition A liposoluble UV filters, the filter with acid functional group and the nanopigment, but containing amphoteric amphiphilic cocobetaine and composition B which it contains only amphoteric amphiphilic cocobetaine, but does not contain filters or nanopigment. Each of these emulsions has been prepared by dissolving the liposoluble UV filters in the fatty phase, then adding the emulsifiers in this fat phase carried at approximately 80 ° C, and finally adding with rapid agitation the aqueous phase containing the benzene-1 acid. , 4- [di (3-methylidecapho-10-sulphonic)} , neutralized with triethanolamine, the aqueous phase being previously heated to this same temperature.

EXAMPLE 2 An antisun composition according to the invention has been prepared by replacing cocobetaine with lauramidopropylebetaine used at the same concentration.

EXAMPLE 3 Betaines have been replaced Examples 1 and 2 by the dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, used at the same concentration. For each one of the formulations prepared in this way, the sun protection index that is related to it has been determined. This has been determined using the in vitro method described by B.L. DIFFEY and collaborators in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40-127-133 (1989); this method consists of determining the monochromatic protection indices every 5 nm in a range of wavelengths from 290 to 400 nm and in calculating from them the protection index according to a given mathematical equation.

The average protection index calculated from three measured values and the standard deviation are indicated in the following table: These results clearly demonstrate that for the same photoprotective system, namely nanopigment + liposoluble UV filters + benzene-1, 4- [di (3-methyl idencanfo-sulphonic acid)], the composition of Example 1 according to invention containing amphoteric amphiphilic compound cocobetaine, has a protection index significantly higher than that of comparative example A, while the amphoteric amphiphilic compound itself does not have the photoprotective power (see comparative example B). These results have been confirmed by means of the in vi ve method that consists of applying the formulations, at a rate of 2 mg of the product / cm2 of skin, on 5 human subjects, after simultaneously submitting the protected areas and the non-protected areas of the skin. to the action of a solar simulator XENON MULTLPORT WG 320-1 mm + UG 11-1 mm. The results are the following: It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention is that which is clear from the present description of the invention

Claims

CLAIMS Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property:

1. A cosmetic composition for topical use, in particular for the photoprotection of the skin and / or hair, under the form of dispersion comprising two immiscible phases stabilized by at least one anionic surfactant selected from the salts of fatty acids and mono- or polyvalent metals, ammonium or organic bases, a filtering compound of ultraviolet radiation constituted by a hydrophilic filter comprising at least a partially or fully neutralized sulphonic acid functional group, which is capable of being adsorbed at the interface of said non-miscible phases, which have the following formula: in which: Z designates a group of formula R2 denotes -H or -S03H; - n designates 0, o. an integer greater than or equal to l and less than or equal to 4; Ri represents one or more alkyl or alkoxy radicals, identical or different, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the two methylidencanfor radicals are on the phenyl nucleus in meta position or for one relative to the other, as well as a nanopigment of metal oxide selected from the oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium, and mixtures thereof, wrapped with hydrophobic hydrocarbon coating agents, having an average primary particle size ranging from 5 to 100 nm, composition characterized in that it also contains an amphiphilic amphiphilic cationic compound Q which leads with the anionic surfactant to the formation of a compound capable of decreasing the water / oil interfacial tension of the paraffin at 40 ° C, more than 14 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.1 mmol / luO g, greater than 26 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.5 mmol / lOO g greater than 33 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 1 mmo1 / 100 g.

2. the composition of confounding with claim 1, characterized in that the amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound has the formula: R4- wherein: Ri to R4, identical or different, represent an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, alkylcarboxylate, alkylsulfonate, hydroxyalkylsulfonate, cycloalkyl, alkenyl, aryl or arylalkyl radical of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear or branched, which may be interrupted by one or several heteroatoms such as oxygen or sulfur or by a group -NH- or amide -CONH-, or Rx and R2 and / or R3 and R4 together form the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle of five or six members, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted or substituted by alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, alkenyl, aryl or arylalkyl radicals of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of the radicals Ri to R4 or substituents of the heterocycle and preferably at most two of these radicals or substituents include at least 6 carbon atoms; X- represents a mineral or organic ion selected from the halide, sulfate, bisulfate, methosulfate, paratoluenesulfonate, saccharinate, preferably chloride or bromide ions; it being understood that when at least one of the radicals Rx to R4 represents an alkylcarboxylate, alkylsulfonate or hydroxyalkylsulphonate radical, the X- ion does not exist.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound has the formula: wherein: R.sub.5 represents an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, alkylcarbonyl, cycloalkyl, alkenyl, aryl, aryl-alkyl radical of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear or branched, which may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or sulfur, or by a group -NH- or amide -CONH-; A, B or D represent CH, N, N + R6, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated. or unsaturated, which may be interrupted by one or several heterotams, it being understood that only one of the symbols A, B or D represents N or N + R6; with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R5 or R6 includes at least 6 carbon atoms; X- represents a mineral or organic ion selected from the halide, sulfate, bisulfate, methosulfate, paratoluenesulfonate, saccharinate, preferably chloride or bromide ions. m = 0, 1 or 2.

4. The composition according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the Ri to Re radicals that include at least 6 carbon atoms are the radicals of 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

5. The composition according to claim 2 or 4, characterized in that the amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound of formula (I) is chosen from betaines such as decylbetaine, laurylbetaine, lauramidopropylbetaine, myristylbetaine, myris tamidopropibetaine, cocobetaine, cocamidoethyl ethaline, cocoamidopropylbetaine, cet ilbetaine, palmamidopropylbetaine, palmi tamidoprobe Ibetaine, ricinoleamidoproprinone, stearamidopropylbetaine, stearylbetaine, oleilbetaine, oleamidopropylbetaine and behenilbetaine, the sultaines such as lauryl sultaine, laurylhydroxysul taine, cocosultaine,

3. 5 cocohydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl idroxysultaine and oleamidoprapylhydroxysultaine, alkyltrimethylammonium salts such as dodecyltrimethyl monium bromide or chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonia chloride, bromide, methosulphate or tosylate, tallow (hydrogenated) trimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, chloride octyldodecyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, or - including benzalkonium chloride, bromide or saccharinate, ketalkonium chloride, cetearalkonium bromide, lauralconium chloride or bromide, stearalkonium chloride, olealkonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, and cocoylbenzylhydroxyethylimidazolinium chloride.

6. The composition according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound of formula (II) is chosen from cet ilpyridinium chloride and laurylpyridinium chloride.

7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphiphilic cationic or amphoteric compound is present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight of active material and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight of active material, with relation to the total weight of the composition.

8. the composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ultraviolet radiation filtering compound of formula (III) is benzene-l, 4- [di (3-methylidenecampho-10-sulphonic)].

9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulphonic acid functional group of the ultraviolet radiation filtering compound of formula (III) is neutralized with a mono- or polyvalent metal hydroxide, ammonia or an organic base.

10. the composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filter compound of formula (III) is present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 0.2 to 10% by weight of active material, and preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight of active material. eleven .

The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is present in concentrations ranging from Q..5 • to 10% by weight of active material in relation to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly 0.5. to 5% by weight of active material.

12. the composition in accordance with. any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metal oxide nanopigment is a nanopigment of titanium oxide.

13. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic hydrocarbon coating agent comprises a fatty acid or a salt of fatty acid and of mono- or polyvalent metal, of ammonium or of organic base.

14. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metal oxide nanoparticle has an average primary particle size ranging from 10 to 50 nm.

15. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metal oxide nanopigment is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably in a proportion of 0.5 to 10% by weight .

16. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from the ester-linked compounds such as the glycols and fatty acid esters, the glycerol and fatty acid esters, the esters of polyglyceroles and fatty acids, esters of tetritol, pentitol and hexitol and of fatty acids, esters of polyethylene glycols and of fatty acids, esters of sucrose and of fatty acids, esters of sucrose and triglycerides, esters of sorbitan and fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters or polysorbates, ether - linked compounds such as polyoxyethylene glycol ethers and. alkylphenols and the ethers of polyoxyethylene glycols and fatty alcohols, the compounds with bond. amides such as polyoxyethylenated alkylamides and copolymers of alkylene oxides.

17. The composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the nonionic surfactants are present in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly from 1 to 3% by weight of active material.

18. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains one or more sun filters complementary to UV-B and / or UV-A hydrophilic or lipophilic different from the filters defined according to any of the preceding claims.

19. The composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the complementary sunscreens are chosen from among the cinnamates, the salicylates, the benzylidenecamphor derivatives, the triazine derivatives, the benzophenone derivatives, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives, the ß, β-derivatives ? -diphenylacrylate, the p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, the benzimidazole derivatives, the bis (benzotriazolylphenol) derivatives, the filter polymers and the filter silicones, as well as the compounds that include at least two benzoazolyl groups.

20. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, thickeners and / or ionic or non-ionic gelling agents, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers. , stabilizers, emollients, hydraxyacids, vitamins, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents such as ceramides, reducers, silicones, free antiradical agents, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, perfumes, preservatives, the charges, the sequestrants, the polymers, the propellants, the alkalizing or acidifying agents and the dyes.

21. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it constitutes a protective composition of the human epidermis or an antisun composition and is presented in the form of a dispersion, emulsion such as cream, milk or gel-cream, solid stick, of foam or spray.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that it constitutes a make-up composition of the eyelashes, eyebrows or skin, and is presented in the solid, liquid or pasty form, such as an emulsion, a non-ionic vesicular dispersion, a powder or a solid stick.

23. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 20, used for the protection of hair against ultraviolet radiation, characterized in that it occurs in the form of shampoo, emulsion, non-ionic vesicular dispersion, foam or dew. .

24. A method of non-therapeutic treatment of the skin and / or hair, to protect them against the effects of UV radiation of wavelengths comprised between 280 and 400 nm, characterized in that it consists in applying an effective amount of a photoprotective cosmetic composition such as defined according to any of the preceding claims.

25. The use for increasing the protection index of a photoprotective cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 23, of a cationic or amphoteric amphiphilic compound, which leads with the ionic surfactant to the formation of a compound capable of reducing the water / oil interfacial tension of the paraffin at 40 ° C to more than 14 mN.m "1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 0.1 mmol / 100 g, of more than 26 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration 0.5 mmol / 100 g, and more than 33 mN.m-1 for an anionic surfactant concentration of 1 mmol / 100 g.

26. The use according to claim 25, characterized in that the ultraviolet radiation filtering compound of formula (III) is benzene-1, 4- [di (3-methylidenecampho-10-sulfonic acid)].

27. The use according to claim 25 or 26, characterized in that the cationic or amphoteric amphiphilic compound is as defined according to any of claims 2 to 6.