MX2007006201A - Method for the permanent shaping of hair using a cationic cellulose derivative - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquid, thickened agent for carrying out the reductive treatment in permanent hair shaping, wherein the agent contains a certain cationic cellulose derivative, preferably in conjunction with at least one other cationic polymer, as well as a method for the permanent shaping of hair using this permanent shaping agent.

Description

METHOD FOR PERMANENT HAIR MODELING USING A CATIÓN CELLULOSE DERIVATIVE FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention comprises a thickened agent for carrying out reducing treatment in permanent modeling of hair, wherein the agent contains a certain cationic cellulose derivative, as well as a method for permanent hair modeling using this agent.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION For permanent hair modeling, the hair is usually treated first with a modeling agent based on a keratin-reducing mercapto compound, which causes an opening of the disulfide bridges of the hair's keratin after which the hair is fixed on the hair. the desired shape. The mercapt reducing compounds of keratin, such as the salts or esters of mercaptocarboxylic acids are normally used with the modeling agent. The hair is then rinsed with agu and an oxidative after-treatment is given with a fixative agent. In this process, previously disulfide bridges are re-linked in the new form. The chemical and mechanical processes that act on the hair with this procedure, worsen the quality of the hair, particularly in terms of maintenance and combing of the hair, making the hair brittle and rough. Previous attempts have been made to provide gentle maintenance of the hair as well as to improve the combing of the hair by adding certain substances conditioning to the modeling agent. It has been shown that the use of cationic compounds, for example, cationic polymers, is particularly advantageous in this process. However, all the hair modeling agents described have their disadvantages. For example, due to insufficient thickening, these agents can cause an excess of the product to come into contact with the scalp, thus causing unpleasant irritations to the scalp, or if the product is too thick, this can lead to a modeling of the scalp. unsatisfactory hair Some thickeners, however, do not provide any cosmetic appearance to the modeling agent, because they are not homogeneous or have a gelatinous, fibrous, or creamy consistency. In addition, polymer-based long-term thickeners are not stable over a period of several months in the presence of reducing agents, and in terms of viscosity (phase separation, precipitate) and high pH values, they impart a red dye with the thioglycolate waving agent due to its high heavy metal content. If the product is too liquid, a particular problem arises which causes the corrugation agent to come into contact with the scalp. The use of certain cationic cellulose derivatives in skin and hair conditioning agents, such as shampoos and hair conditioning agents, is described in the patent 2005/000903 A1, however they are not for hair aggressive agents, and especially for hair those that contain strong reducing agents or oxidizing agents. Although numerous cationic cellulose derivatives in neutral or slightly acidic pH conditioning agents have already been recommended, there are only a few that are sufficiently stable to allow the use of cationic agents.

Reducing and strongly alkaline hair modeling. There is a challenge to provide an agent to carry out the reducing step in the permanent modeling of the hair that does not run off the hair during the period of treatment, which is not too liquid, but nevertheless, wet the hair well, which can be present as a clear gel, that is able to condition the hair well, that can be rinsed easily with water, and where this agent imparts a good cosmetic appearance, that is stable and at the same time assure good results of uniform modeling from the roots to the hair tips.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION It has been found, unexpectedly, that the expressed challenge can be achieved in an outstanding manner when the hair modeling agent used to perform the reducing step in permanent modeling of the hair contains a cationic cell derivative, which is substituted with substituents of the Formulas (I) and (II). Therefore, the object of the present invention is an agent as indicated in claim 1 as well as a method for permanent hair modeling as set forth in claim 21. The preferred embodiments of the invention are explained in the dependent claims. The advantages of the hair styling agent, in addition to its simpler application as a result of the increase in viscosity, include in particular a significant improvement in permanently restructured hair maintenance and combing, as well as especially uniform modeling results from roots to hair. the ends of the hair.

The cationic polymers of Formula (III) are preferred where it represents a number from 0.1 to 0.6, Y is a number from 0.1 to 0.6, U and V represent each other a number from 0.001 to 0.06, R represents a straight-chain alkyl residue of 8 18 carbon atoms, and n is an integer of 1, 000 to 6,000. The cationic polymers of Formula (III) are especially preferred when X = 0.15 to 0.35, Y = 0.15 to 0.35, U and V each represent a number from 0.001 to 0.06, R = a straight chain alkyl residue of 10 to 16. carbon atoms and represents 2,000 to 6,000. In particular, R = a chain alkyl residue with 12 carbon atoms is preferred. Also preferred are the cationic polymers of Formula (IV). As indicated in claim 1, it is advantageous that the hair styling agent d contains a cationic cellulose derivative in an amount of 0.01 to 5 weight percent, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 2 weight percent and preference especially in an amount of 0.1 to 0.5 percent by weight. As indicated in claim 1, the cationic cellulose derivatives are sold commercially by the company DOW CHEMICAL / Amerchol Company under the names Polymer SL®-5, Polymer SL®-30, Polymer SL®-60, and Polymer SL®- 100, where the degree of hydrophobization (due to the increasing length of the R4 substituent chain or a higher value for the degree of substitution for the substituent (I)), increases as the number increases from 5 to 30, 60 and 100. This process is described, for example, in patent W 2005/000903 A1. In particular, the cellulose ethers used in the manufacture of the cellulose derivatives include hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and methylcellulose, among which hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose are preferred. As indicated in claim 1, the cationic cellulose derivatives they have a molecular weight of 10,000 to 4,000,000, preferably 100,000 to 1,000,000, and the viscosity of a 1% aqueous solution is preferably 1,000 to 5,000 mPa · sec at 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F), and particularly preferably from 1, 500 to 3,000 mPa · sec at 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F). The viscosity values are based on measurements with a Haake rotary viscometer, type VT 550, with a cutting speed of 10.0 per second. A measuring system of double-space cylinder NV or MV was used. Unexpectedly, it was also observed that a cationic cellulose derivative as set forth in claim 1 as a component of the agent of the present invention, acts synergistically in combination with an additional cationic conditioning polymer to provide an improvement in the conditioning properties , in particular the maintenance and combing of the hair, both under dry and wet conditions. In addition, an even more improved result was observed in terms of the uniformity of the modeling of the hair from the roots to the tips of the hair. The hair conditioning polymers that can be used to act synergistically with the cationic cellulose derivatives as set forth in claim 1 can be homo or copolymers, where quaternary nitrogen groups are included in the polymer chain or, preferably, as substituents in one. or more of the monomers. The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are radical-polymerizable unsaturated compounds, which carry at least one cationic group, in particular substituted ammonium vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkyl methacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic groups containing cationic nitrogen such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example, alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkyl vinylpyrrolidone salts. Preferably, the alkyl groups of these monomers are lower alkyl groups such as, for example, C- alkyl groups! to C-7, and in particular preferably alkyl groups of C-, to C-3. Suitable non-cationic comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, where the alkyl groups in these monomers, preference is given to C-7 C-7 alkyl groups, and particularly preferably C- alkyl groups! to C-3. Suitable polymers with quaternary ammonium groups are, for example, the polymers described under the name polyquaternium in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary publication, such as, for example, Chloride Chloride Chloride Copolymer. methylvinylimidazolium / vinylpyrrolidone (POLYQUATERNIUM-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (polyquaternium-1 1). The homo and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, such as for example, polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (polyquaternium-6), sold commercially by the company Ondeo Nalco Company under the tradename Merquat® 100, or the copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (CTFA : polyquaternium-7); quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (polyquaternium-10) or quaternized guar derivatives. Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the agent of the present invention, the following examples are suitable: vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulphate sold under the tradenames Gafquat® 755 N and Gafquat® 734 by Gaf Co. in the USA. UU; in particular Gafquat® 734 is preferred. Other cationic polymers are, for example, the copolymer sold by BASF in Germany under the trade names LUVIQUAT® HM 550 and LUVIQUAT® HM 552, made from polyvinylpyrrolidone methochloride and imidazolimine; the terpolymer sold by Calgon in the USA under the trade name Merquat® Plus 3300 made of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate, and acrylamide; the terpolymer sold by ISP in the US under the trade name Gaffix® VC 713, made from vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, and vinylcaprolactam; and the copolymer sold by Gaf under the tradename Gafquat® HS 100 made from vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / propyltrimethylammonium chloride. Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are the cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, the cationic derivatives of starch or guar. Moreover, chitosan and chitosan derivatives are suitable. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-Q-B-N + RaRbRc X (V) where G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example, anhydroglucose starch or cellulose; B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkyls, oxyalkyls, polyoxyalkyls, or hydroxyalkyls; Ra, Rbi and Rc are independently from each other alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl, each having 1 to 18 C atoms, wherein the total number of C atoms in Ra, Rb 'and Rc is preference a maximum of 20; X (_) is a common anion, preferably chloride, bromide, or sulfate. A suitable cationic cellulose of Formula (V) is sold commercially by the Amerchol Company and has the designation INCI polyquaternium-10. An additional cationic cellulose carrying the INCI designation polyquaternium-24 is sold commercially under the trade name Polymer LM®-200 by Amerchol. A suitable cationic guar derivative is sold under the tradename Jaguar® R and has the designation INCI CHLORIDE HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM GUAR. Other suitable cationic polymers are chitosan, chitosan salts, chitosan derivatives. Chitosans are completely or partially deacetylated chitins. To produce a chitosan, it is preferred to start with the chitin contained in the shellfish d shell residues, which are available in large quantities as cheap and natural raw material. The molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed on a wide scale, for example, from 20,000 g / mol to approximately 5,000,000 g / mol (176,369.8 oz / mol). A low molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight of, for example, 30,000 g / mol (1.058.2 oz / mol) at 70,000 g / mol (2,469.2 oz / mol) is considered adequate. However, preferably the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol (3,527.39 oz / mol), and particularly preferably from 200,000 g / mol (7,054.79 oz / mol) to 700,000 g / mol (24,691.8 oz / mol). The level of deacetylation preferably is from 10 to 99%, with 60 to 99% being especially preferred. A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oíl & Fat in Japan under the tradename Flonac®, with a molecular weight of 300,000 g / mol (10,582.2 oz / mol) at 700,000 g / mol (24,691.8 oz / mol) and is 70 to 80% deacetylated. A preferred chitosan salt is the pyrrolidone chitosan carboxylate, which is marketed, for example, under the name Kytamer PC by Amerchol Company in the USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 g / mol (7,054.79 oz / mol) at 300,000 g / mol (10,582.2 oz / mol) and is 70 to 85% deacetylated. Quaternized, alkylated, or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example, hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutyl chitosan, can be considered chitosan derivatives.

Chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably present in their neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative preferably is at least 50%, with 70 to 100% being particularly preferred, based on the number of free base groups. At first, all cosmetically compatible organic or inorganic acids can be used for the neutralizing agent, such as, for example, formic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid and pyrrolidinecarboxylic acid, among which prefers citric acid. Other cation-active hair care compounds that can be included in the modeling agent of the present invention are the cationically modified protein derivatives or the cationically modified protein hydrolysates, and are known by the INCI designations hydroxypropyl lauryldimonium of wheat protein. hydrolyzed, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl lauryldimonium hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl lauryldimonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed keratin hydroxypropyl lauryldimonium, hydrolyzed silk hydroxypropyl lauryldimonium, hydrolyzed soy protein hydroxypropyl lauryldimonium, or hydrolysed wheat hydroxypropyl trimonium, hydrolyzed casein hydroxypropyl trimonium, hydroxypropyl trimonium Hydrolyzed collagen, Hydrolyzed keratin hydroxypropyl trimonium, Hydroxygenated rice bran protein hydroxypropyl trimon, Hydrolyzed silk hydroxypropyl trimonium, Hydrolyzed soy protein hydroxypropyl trimon, and hydroxypropyl opil trimon of hydrolyzed vegetable protein. Suitable cationically-derived protein hydrolysates are mixtures of substances which, for example, can be obtained from the glycidyltrialkylammonium salts or the 3-halo-2-hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium salts, by means of the conversion of alkaline, acidic or hydrolyzed proteins by enzymes The proteins used as raw materials for protein hydrolysates can be of origin vegetable or animal. Commonly used raw materials are, for example, keratin, collagen, elastin, soy protein, rice protein, milk protein, wheat protein, silk protein, or almond protein. Hydrolysis produces mixtures of materials with molecular masses on the scale of about 100 to about 50,000. In general, the average molecular mass is on the scale of about 500 to about 1,000. For cationically derived protein hydrolysates it is advantageous if they contain one or two alkyl chains of C-8 to C-22 and correspondingly one or two short alkyl chains of C-1 to C-4. Compounds containing a long alkyl chain are preferred. Cation-active silicone compounds are also suitable cationic polymers. These compounds are substituted with cationic groups or groups that can be made cationic. Suitable cation-active silicone compounds have at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group. Silicone polymers with suitable amino groups are known under the designation INCI AMODIMETICONE. These polymers are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The polymer sold by Dow Chemical Company under the trade name DC2-8556 (CTFA: AMODIMETICONE) and the polymer sold by the company General Electric Company subsidiary Osi under the trade name Silsoft A-858 (CTFA: DEA PG-propyl PEG / PPG- 8/21 dimethicone) are particularly suitable. It is especially preferred when the permanent modeling agent of the present invention, in addition to the cationic cellulose derivative as set forth in claim 1, contains a synergistically acting cationic polymer selected from: diallyldimethylammonium chloride / hydroxyethylcellulose copolymers (CTFA: polyquaternium -4), copolymers of beta-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium / acrylamide methanesulfate (CTFA: polyquaternium-5), polychloride diallyldimethylammonium (CTFA: polyquaternium-6), for example, as marketed by the company Ondeo Nalco Company under the tradename Merquat® 100, the copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (CTFA: polyquaternium-7), quaternized vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (polyquaternium-1 1), dimethylaminoethyl polymethacrylate (75% quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or 100% quaternized with methyl chloride or methyl bromide), homopolymer of beta-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate (CTFA: polyquaternium-14), copolymers of beta-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium / methacrylamide chloride (CTFA: polyquaternium-15), methyl vinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-16); copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide propyltrimethylammonium chloride, acrylic acid polymers such as, for example, the polymer sold commercially by the Rohm GmbH Company under the tradename PLEX 3074 L (CTFA: polyquaternium-35), in addition to the cationic guar derivatives and the cationic chitosan derivatives. The modeling agent contains keratin-reducing active ingredients such as sulfites or mercapto compounds and in particular thioglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid glycerin esters, thioglycolic amides, thioglycerin, thiolactic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, cysteine, cysteine derivatives such as , for example, cysteine-2-hydroxyethyl ester, cysteamine, homocysteine, alkyl or acyl cisterns, mercaptoacetamides, 2-mercaptopropionic acid amides or salts or derivatives of these compounds, and especially ammonium thioglycolate. The keratin reducing material is included in the agent for permanent hair styling ready to use in an amount of 1 to 25 weight percent, with 5 to 15 weight percent being preferred. If the permanent modeling agent also contains the disulfide of a hair keratin reducing thiol, in particular thioglycolate, it is advantageous. The amount preferred use for the disulfide is 1 to 20 weight percent, but preferably 2 to 10 weight percent, where a ratio between the keratin hair reducing compound and the 2: 1 disulfide is preferred. to 1: 2, but particularly from 2: 1 to 1: 1. Obviously, the ready-to-use permanent modeling agent may contain all common and known additives for such agents, for example, thickeners such as, for example, fatty acids, hydroxyethylcelluloses, starches, petrolatum, paraffin oils; wetting or emulsifying agents of the classes of cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, such as the quaternary ammonium salts, for example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, N-alkylbetaines and N-alkylamidobetaines, N-alkylsulfobetaines, N-alkylaminopropionates, salts of alkyldimethylcarboxymethylammonium with 12 to 18 carbon atoms as well as the fatty acid alkylamidobetaines, for example, fatty acid betaines of amidopropyldimethylaminoacetic acid, oxyethylated alkylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides or oxyethylated fatty acid esters; in addition to opacifiers, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol esters, alcohols, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, polyols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, 1, 2- or 1,3-propanediol, 1, 2 -, 1, 3- or 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-, 1, 3-, 1, 4- or 1,5-pentanediol and glycerin; sugars such as, for example, D-glucose, solubilizing agents such as, for example, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, hydrogenated and oxyethylated castor oil, oxyethylated fatty alcohols, stabilizers, alkalizing agents, for example, ammonia, mono- or diethanolamine, modifiers of pH, for example, ammonium bicarbonate, perfume oils, dyes, as well as components for hair conditioning and hair care, such as, for example, lanolin derivatives, urea, cholesterol, pantothenic acid and betaine. The mentioned components that are included in this agent are used in the normal amounts for such applications in a permanent modeling agent, for example, the wetting and emulsifying agents may be present in concentrations of about 0.2 to 30 weight percent, the alcohols may be present in an amount of about 0.1 to 20 weight percent, the opacifying agents, the perfume oils and the dyes may each be present in an amount of 0.01 to 1 weight percent, the pH modifiers may be present in an amount of about 0.1 to 10 weight percent, the sugars, solubilizing agents, stabilizers, as well as a Hair conditioning and hair care component, each may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 5 weight percent, while thickeners and solubilizing agents may be present in an amount of about 0.5 to 20 weight percent. In addition, this agent can include so-called swelling and penetrating agents for the purpose of improving activity, such as, for example, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, 2-pyrrolidine or imidazolidin-2-one, in an amount of 1 to 30 percent. in weigh. The agent of the present invention in fact has a viscosity of 1.5 to 5,000 mPa | s at 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F), where a viscosity of 3 to 3,000 mPa · s at 25 degrees C (77 ° F) is preferred. . The pH value of the modeling agent is preferably from 7 to 10, wherein the pH is preferably adjusted using ammonia, monoethanolamine, ammonium carbonate, or ammonium bicarbonate. If the modeling agent is adjusted to be acidic (eg at a pH = 6.5 to 6.9), the esters of the mercaptocarboxylic acids such as the glycol esters of monothioglycolic acid or glycerin esters, but preferably the mercaptoacetamides or amides of 2-mercaptopropionic acid, are used in a concentration of 2 to 14 weight percent; or salts of sulfuric acid, for example, sodium sulfite, ammonium, or monoethanolammonium are used in a concentration of 3 to 8 weight percent (calculated as S02). Another object of the present invention is a method for permanent modeling of the hair in which the hair is treated with a hair keratin reductive modeling agent before and / or after fixing it in the desired shape; then s rinse with water, as needed, after a period of action sufficient to permanently model the hair; the hair is then treated with an oxidizing fixing agent, rinsed again with water, styled, and then dried, and wherein said modeling agent of the present invention is used as the modeling agent. In the process of the present invention, the hair is washed, towel dried, separated into individual strands, and rolled into curls. The diameter of the rollers depends on whether you want a permanent wave or you want to straighten your hair, from 5 mm (0.2 inch) 13 mm (0.4 inch) or approximately 15 mm (0.5 inch) to 35 mm (1.2 inch). An amount of the modeling agent of the present invention sufficient to permanently model the hair is applied to the hair before and / or after rolling into curls. The total amount of the modeling agent required for permanent hair modeling is generally about 80 g (2.8 oz) to 120 g (4.23 oz). After a sufficient period of action for permanent modeling of the hair, which can be from 5 to 30 minutes (10 to 30 minutes without the addition of heat or 5 to 20 minutes with heat), depending on the quality of the hair, the effectiveness modeling of the modeling agent, as well as the application temperature, then the hair is rinsed with water and treated with an oxidative agent ("binds"). Depending on the thickness of the hair, the fixing agent is preferably used in an amount of 80 g (2.8 oz) to 100 g (3.53 oz). Any known fixative agent suitable for this type of treatment It can be used as the hair fixing agent, rolled into curls or unrolled. Examples of oxidizing agents that can be used in these fixing agents include potassium and sodium bromate, sodium perborate, urea, and hydrogen peroxide. The concentration of the oxidizing agent can vary depending on the application time (normally 5 to 15 minutes) and the application temperature. The oxidizing agent is normally present in the ready-to-use aqueous fixing agent in a concentration of 0.5 to 10 weight percent. The fixing agent can evidently contain other materials, such as, for example, wetting agents, conditioning agents such as betaine, weak acids, pH modifiers or peroxide stabilizers, and may be present in the form of an aqueous solution as well as in the form of a thickened aqueous base, in particular as a cream, gel or paste. Normal additives may also be included in the fixing agent in an amount of 0.1 to 10 weight percent. The rollers are then removed. An oxidative after-treatment can be provided to the unrolled hair, if necessary. Next, the hair is rinsed with water, modeled in a wave of water as needed, then dried. The hair treated in this way has a modeling uniform and long duration and is extremely well conditioned. The following examples are intended to provide additional detail regarding the purpose of the present invention.

Examples Example 1. Permanent waving agent for normal, spill-resistant and slightly alkaline hair 18. 20 g (0.642 oz) ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) 2.00 g (0.07 oz) ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 4.00 g (0.14 oz) 0.25 g (0.005 oz) ammonium bicarbonate derived from cellulose from the Formula (III) with a viscosity of 1.212 mPa | sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SL®-60) 0.20 g (0.007 oz) dimethyldiallylammonium polychloride (CTFA) : polyquaternium-6) 0.20 g (0.007 oz) vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate (CTFA: polyquaternium-1 1) 1.00 g (0.04 oz) 1, 3-butanediol 1.50 g (0.05 oz) 1, 2-propylene glycol 2.00 g (0.07 oz) dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether 3.50 g (0.12 oz) urea 1.00 g (0.04 oz) polyglycol ether hydrogenated castor triglyceride (CTFA: hydrogenated castor PEG-40) 1 .00 g (0.04 oz) coconut fatty alcohol, oxyethylated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA: Coceth-8) 0.50 g (0.02 oz) csp perfume oil at 100.00 g (3.53 oz. ) Water After the hair has been rolled into permanent wave curls, the permanent waving agent mentioned above was uniformly applied to the curlers, the agent having a pH = 8.4 and a viscosity of 8.5 mPa sec at 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F). ). Then a period of action takes place for 10 minutes with the use of an infrared radiator type bell at a temperature of 40 ° (104 ° F). The hair is rinsed with water. Next, 80 g (2.8 oz.) Of one of the fixing agents mentioned below is applied to the curlers.

Fixing agent 4. 00 g (0.14 oz) hydrogen peroxide, 50% 0.10 g (0.004 oz) salicylic acid 0.20 g (0.007 oz) disodium hydrogen phosphate 0.15 g (0.005 oz) o-phosphoric acid 1.00 g (0.04 oz) castor oil, oxyethylated with 35 moles of ethylene oxide 0.10 g (0.004 oz) vinylpyrrolidone styrene copolymer 0.10 g (0.004 oz) perfume oil csp to 100 g (3.53 oz) water After an action period of 8 minutes, the fixing agent is rinsed with water, and the hair is unrolled. The hair exhibits a conditioned appearance, or pleasant maintenance, and good wet combability, as well as a uniform curl.

Example 2. Permanent waving agent for dyed, slightly alkaline and spill-resistant hair 12. 50 g (0.44 oz) ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) 2.00 g (0.07 oz) diammonium dithioglycolate 0.80 g (0.03 oz) ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 4.00 g (0.14 oz) ammonium bicarbonate 0.15 g ( 0.005 oz) cellulose derivative of Formula (III) with a viscosity of 1.212 mPa sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SL®-60) 0.80 g (0.03 g) oz) dimethyldiallylammonium polychloride (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-6) 0.20 g (0.007 oz) silicone polymer with amino functional groups (CTFA: METOXI PEG / PPG-7/3 AMINOPROPIL DIMETICONE) 0.10 g (0.004 oz) hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.30 g (0.01 g) oz) styrene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (CTFA: STYRENE / VP) COPOLYMER 1.50 g (0.05 oz) 1, 2-propylene glycol 2.00 g (0.07 oz) dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether 2.00 g (0.07 oz) urea 1.00 g (0.04 oz) polyglycol hydrogenated castor triglyceride ether (CTFA: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) 1.00 g (0.04 oz) coconut fatty alcohol, oxyethyla do with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA: Coceth-8) 0.50 g (0.02 oz) perfume oil csp 100.00 g (3.53 oz) water (pH = 8.2) After the hair has been rolled into permanent wave corrugations, the above-mentioned permanent waving agent was applied uniformly to the curlers, the agent having a pH = 8.2 and a viscosity of 1 1 mPa sec to 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F). Then an action period of 2 minutes takes place at room temperature. The hair is rinsed with water. Next, 80 (2.8 oz.) Of the fixing agent of Example 1 is applied to the curlers. After a 10-minute action period, the fixing agent is rinsed with water, and the hair is unrolled. The hair exhibits a conditioned appearance, pleasant maintenance, and good wet combability, as well as a uniform curl.

Example 3. Permanent, spill-resistant, slightly alkaline waving agent for curly-resistant hair 26. 50 g (0.935 monoethanolamine thioglycolate (67% aqueous solution) 3. 80 g (0.13 oz) monoethanolamine 0.10 g (0.004 oz) polymer of the formula (III) with a viscosity of 1.710 mPa | sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SL ®-5) 0.30 g (0.01 oz) quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (POLYQUATERNIUM-1 1) 0.02 g (0.0007 oz) hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.00 g (0.04 oz) 1,3-butanediol 1.50 g (0.05 oz) ) 1, 2-propylene glycol 2.00 g (0.07 oz) dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether 3.50 g (0.12 oz) urea 1.50 g (0.05 oz) oleyl alcohol, oxyethylated with 10 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA: -10) 0.50 g (0.02 oz) perfume oil csp 100.00 g (3.53 oz) water (pH = 8.9) The permanent waving agent has a viscosity of 5.5 mPa · sec 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F). The application is carried out in accordance with Example 2. The hair exhibits a conditioned appearance, a pleasant maintenance, has good combability, and a uniform curl.

Example 4. Two-component, spill-resistant, permanent waving agent Component 1 1 .50 g (0. 05 oz.) Ammonium bicarbonate 2.20 g (0. 08 oz.) Ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 0.10 g (0. 004 oz., Polymer of Formula (III) with a viscosity of 1, 895 mPa | sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SL®-30) 0.10 g (0.004 oz) polymer of Formula (III) with a viscosity of 2.205 mPa sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SL®-100) 0.40 g (0.01 oz) methyl vinylimidazolium chloride copolymer / vinylpyrrolidone (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-16) 0.30 g (0.01 oz) chloride cetyltrimethylammonium 1.50 g (0.05 oz) 1, 2-propylene glycol 3.00 g (0.1 1 oz) urea 1.80 g (0.06 oz) oleyl alcohol, ethoxylated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA: OLETH-20) 0.40 g (0.01 g) oz) perfume oil csp 100.00 g (3.53 oz) water Component 2 80. 00 g (2.82 oz) ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) 20.00 g (0.71 oz) ammonium thiolactate (70% aqueous solution) Before use, 60 g (2.1 oz) of Component 1 was mixed with 15 g (0.5 oz Component 2. The pH value of the ready-to-use hair modeling agent obtained was 7.3, then 75 g (2.6 oz) of the ready-to-use agent was applied to the hair previously wound around curls of undulated permament with a diameter of 8 m (0.3 inch), and allowed to act on the hair for 20 minutes at room temperature. Then the hair is rinsed with water. Next, 80 g (2.8 oz.) Of the fixative agent of Example 1 was applied to the curlers. After an action period of 10 minutes, fixative agent was rinsed with water, and the hair was unrolled. The hair exhibited a conditioned appearance, pleasant maintenance, and good wet combability, as well as a uniform curl.

Example 5. Permanent waving agent type qel for the permanent treatment of the hair root. 18. 20 g (0.642 oz) ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) 2. 20 g (0. .09 oz) ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 3. 50 g (0.12 oz) ammonium bicarbonate 0. .30 g (0. .01 oz) polymer of Formula (III) with a viscosity of 2.112 mPa | sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SL®- 60) 0.20 g (0.007 oz) dimethyldiallylammonium polychloride (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIU -6) 0.80 g (0.03 oz) hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.50 g (0.02 oz) 1,3-butanediol 2.00 g (0.07 oz) 1,2-propylene glycol 2.00 g ( 0.07 oz) dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether 3.50 g (0.12 oz) urea 1.50 g (0.05 oz) polyethylene glycol with castor oil (35EO) (CTFA: PEG-35 RICINO OIL) 1.00 g (0.04 oz) polyglycol ether triglyceride Hydrogenated castor oil (40EO) (CTFA: PEG-40 HYDROGENATED RICHINOUS TRIISOESTEARATE OIL) 0.50 g (0.02 oz) perfume oil csp 100.00 g (3.53 oz) water (pH = 8.6) After the hair has been rolled into permanent wave curls, the permanent waving agent mentioned above was applied uniformly to the roots of the hair with a brush with the agent having a pH 8.6 and a viscosity of 2,700 mPa | sec at 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F). Then a period of action of 10 minutes takes place at room temperature. The hair is rinsed with water. Next, 60 g (2.1 oz) of the fixing agent of Example 1 was applied to the curlers. After an action period of 10 minutes, the fixing agent is rinsed with water, and the hair is unrolled. The hair exhibits a good root volume, or excellent maintenance, and good combing.

Example 6. Two phase permanent waving agent to equalize large hair structural differences Phase 1 12. 50 g (0.441 oz) ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) 0.80 g (0.03 oz) ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 4.00 g (0.14 oz) ammonium bicarbonate 0.10 g (0.004 oz) polymer of the formula ( III) with a viscosity of 2.1 12 mPa sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SL®-60) 0.10 g (0.004 oz) polymer of Formula (III) with a viscosity of 2205 mPa sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SL®-100) 0.80 g (0.03 oz) aminosilicone DC2-8566 from Dow Corning (CTFA: AMODIMETICONE) 0.30 g (0.01 g) oz) styrene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (CTFA: STYRENE COPOLYMER / VP) 1.50 g (0.05 oz) 1, 2-propylene glycol 2.00 g (0.07 oz) urea 1.00 g (0.04 oz) coconut fatty alcohol, ethoxylated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA: COCETH-8) ü »g. (D >; -? < Dz)) pai¾fe (hydrolyzed castor dehydrochloride (40EO) csp 100.00 g (3.53 oz) ¾? ¾ * \: PEG-40-HYDROGENIC RICINO OIL TRII $ P¾3¾0JS) TO) Phase 2 18. 20 g (0.642 oz) ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) 2.20 g (or 08 oz) ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 3.50 g (0.12 oz) ammonium bicarbonate 0.40 g (0. 01 oz) ) polymer of Formula (III) with a viscosity of 2.112 mPa · sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution (Amerchol Polymer SLO-60) 0.20 g (0.007 oz) polychloride dimethyldiallylammonium (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-6) 0.80 g (0.03 oz) hydroxyethylcellulose 0.50 g (0.02 oz) 1,3-butanediol 2.00 g (0.07 oz) 1, 2-propylene glycol 2.00 g (0.07 oz) dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether 3.50 g ( 0.12 oz) urea 1.50 g (0.05 oz) polyethylene glycol with castor oil (35EO) (CTFA: PEG-35 RICINO OIL) 1.00 g (0.04 oz) polyglycol ether hydrogenated castor triglyceride (40EO) (CTFA: PEG -40 TRIISOESTEARATE HYDROGENIC RICINO OIL) 0.50 g (0.02 oz) perfume oil csp 100.00 g (3.53 oz) water (pH = 8.6) After the hair has been rolled into permanent wave corrugations, the permanent waving liquid of Phase 1 is then applied to the curlers, the agent having a pH = 8.2 and a viscosity of 7 mPa | sec at 25 degree centigrade ( 77 ° F). Immediately below, the gel type permanent waving agent (Phase 2) mentioned above is applied to the hair roots with a brush, where said agent has a pH = 8.6 and a viscosity of 2,900 mPa · sec 25 degrees Celsius (77 CF ). Then there is an action period of 10 minutes at room temperature. Then the hair is rinsed with water. Next, 60 (2.1 oz) of the fixative agent of Example 1 was applied to the curlers. After a 10-minute action period, the fixing agent is rinsed with water, and the hair is unrolled. hair exhibits a uniform wavy from the roots to the tips, excellent maintenance, and very good combing. Example 7. Permanent waving agent for normal, spill-resistant and slightly alkaline hair 18. 20 g ammonium thioglycollate (70% aqueous solution) (0.64 oz) 2.00 g ammonia (25% aqueous solution) (0.07 oz) 4.00 g ammonium bicarbonate (0.14 oz) 0.15 g polymer of the formula (IV) with one viscosity (0.0053 oz) 2, 1 12 mPa · sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution 0.20 g polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (0.0071 oz) (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-6) 0.20 g vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulphate (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-1 1) (0.0071 oz) '1 .00 g 1,3-butanediol (0.035 oz) 1.50 g 1,2-propylene glycol (0.053 oz) 2.00 g dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether (0.071 oz) 3.50 g urea (0.12 oz) 1 .00 g polyglycol triglyceride ether hydrogenated castor oil (0.035 oz) (CTFA: PEG-40 HYDROGENATED RICINO OIL) 1 .00 g coconut fatty alcohol, oxyethylated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (0.035 oz) (CTFA: COCETH-8) 0.50 g perfume oil (0.018 oz) csp at 100.00 g Water (3.53 oz) After the hair has been rolled into permanent waving rollers, the permanent waving agent mentioned above is uniformly applied to the rollers, the agent having a pH = 8.4 and a viscosity of 8.5 mPa · sec at 25 degrees centigrade (77 °) F). Then an action period of 10 minutes elapses with the use of an infrared radiator type bell at a temperature of 40 ° C (104 ° F). The hair is rinsed with water. Next, 80 g (2.82 oz) of the fixing agent of Example 1 is applied to the curlers. After an action period of 8 minutes, the fixing agent is rinsed with water, and the hair is unrolled. The hair exhibits a conditioned appearance, pleasant maintenance, and good wet combability, as well as a uniform curl.

Example 8. Permanent Waving Agent for Stained, Slightly Alkaline, Spill Resistant Hair 12. 50 g ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) (0.44 oz) 2.00 g diammonium dithioglycolate (0.071 oz) 0.80 g ammonia (25% aqueous solution) (0.028 oz) 4.00 g ammonium bicarbonate (0.14 oz) 0.15 g polymer of Formula (IV) with a viscosity of (0.0053 oz) 2, 1 12 mPa · sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution 0.80 g polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (0.028 oz) (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-6) 0.20 g aminofunctional silicon polymer (CTFA: METOXI PEG / PPG-7/3 AMINOPROPIL DIMETHICONE) (0.0071 oz) '0.10 g hydroxyethylcellulose (0.0035 oz) 0.30 g styrene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (0.012 oz) (CTFA: STYRENE / VP COPOLYMER) 1.50 g 1,2-propylene glycol (0.053 oz. ) 2.00 g dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether (0.071 oz) 2.00 g urea (0.071 oz) 1.00 g polyglycol ether triglyceride hydrogenated castor oil (0.035 oz) (CTFA: PEG-40 HYDROGENIC RICINO OIL) 1.00 g fatty alcohol coconut, oxyethylated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (0.035 oz) (CTFA: COCETH-8) 0.50 g perfume oil (0.018 oz) csp at 100.00 g water (pH = 8.2) (3.53 oz) After the hair has been rolled into undulatory curls permanent, the permanent waving agent mentioned above is applied uniformly to the rollers, the agent having a pH = 8.2 and a viscosity of 1 1 mPa · sec at 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F). Then an action period of 20 minutes takes place at room temperature. The hair is rinsed with water. Next, 80 g (2.82 oz.) Of the fixing agent of Example 1 is applied to the curlers. After an action period of 10 minutes, the fixing agent is rinsed with water, and the hair is unrolled. The hair exhibits a conditioned appearance, pleasant maintenance, and good wet combability, as well as a uniform curl. Example 9. Gel-type permanent waving agent for permanent root treatment 18. 20 g ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) (0.64 oz) 2.20 g ammonia (25% aqueous solution) (0.078 oz) 3.50 g ammonium bicarbonate (0.12 oz) 0.30 g polymer of the formula (IV) with one viscosity of (0.01 1 oz) 2.1 12 mPa · sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution 0.20 g polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (0.0071 oz) (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-6) 0.80 g hydroxyethylcellulose ( 0.028 oz) 0.50 g 1, 3-butanediol (0.018 oz) 2.00 g 1, 2-propylene glycol (0.071 oz) 2.00 g dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether (0.071 oz) 3.50 g urea (0.12 oz) 1.50 g polyethylene glycol with oil castor bean (35EO) (0.053 oz) (CTFA: PEG-35 RICINO OIL) 1 .00 g polyglycol triglyceride ether hydrogenated castor oil (40EO) (0.035 oz) (CTFA: PEG-40 HYDROGENATED RICHE OIL TRIISOESTEARATE) 0. 50 g perfume oil (0.018 oz) csp at 100.00 g water (pH = 8.6) (3.53 oz) After the hair has been wound into permanent wavy curls, the permanent waving agent mentioned above is uniformly applied to the roots of the hair with a brush, the agent having a pH = 8.6 and a viscosity of 2,700 mPa | sec at 25 ° C. degrees Celsius (77 ° F). Then an action period of 10 minutes takes place at room temperature. The hair is rinsed with water. Next, 60 g (2.12 oz) of the fixing agent of Example 1 is applied to the curlers. After an action period of 10 minutes, the fixing agent is rinsed with water, and the hair is unrolled. The hair exhibits good root volume, excellent maintenance, and good combing.

Example 10. Permanent waving agent of Phase 2 to equalize the large structural differences of the hair.

Phase 1 12. 50 g ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) (0.44 oz) 0.80 g ammonia (25% aqueous solution) (0.028 02) 4. 00 g ammonium bicarbonate (0.14 oz) 0.10 g polymer of the formula (IV) with a viscosity of (0.0035 oz) 2.1 12 mPa · sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution 0.10 g polymer of formula (IV) with a viscosity of (0.0035 oz) 2.205 mPa | sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in a 1% aqueous solution 0.80 g aminosilicon DC2-8566 from Dow Corning (0.028 oz) ( CTFA: AMODIMETICONE) 0.30 g styrene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (0.01 1 oz) (CTFA: STYRENE / VP) COPOLYMER 1.50 g 1, 2-propylene glycol (0.053 oz) 2.00 g urea (0.071 oz) 1.00 g fatty alcohol coconut, ethoxylated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (0.035 oz) (CTFA: COCETH-8) 1.00 g polyglycol ether of triglyceride hydrogenated castor oil (40EO) (0.035 oz) (CTFA: PEG-40 TRIISOESTEARATE HYDROGENIC RICINO OIL) 0. 50 g perfume oil (0.018 oz) csp at 100.00 g water (pH = 8.2) (3.53 oz) Phase 2 18. 20 g ammonium thioglycolate (70% aqueous solution) (0.64 oz) 2.20 g ammonia (25% aqueous solution) (0.078 oz) 3.50 g ammonium bicarbonate (0.12 oz) 0.40 g polymer of the formula (IV) with one viscosity (0.014 oz) 2, 1 12 mPa | sec at 25 ° C (77 ° F) in an aqueous solution 0.20 g polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (0.0071 oz) (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-6) 0.80 g hydroxyethylcellulose (0.028 oz) 0. 50 g 1, 3-butanediol (0.018 oz) 2.00 g 1, 2-propylene glycol (0.071 oz) 2.00 g dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether (0.071 oz) 3.50 g urea (0.12 oz) 1.50 g polyethylene glycol with castor oil (35EO) ( 0.053 oz) (CTFA: PEG-35 RICINO OIL) 1.00 g polyglycol triglyceride ether hydrogenated castor oil (40EO) (0.035 oz) (CTFA: PEG-40 HYDROGENATED RICHINOUS TRIISOESTEARATE OIL) 0.50 g perfume oil (0.018) oz) csp at 100.00 g water (pH = 8.6) (3.53 oz) After the hair has been rolled into permanent wavy curls, the permanent waving liquid of Phase 1 is then applied to the curlers, the agent having a pH = 8.2 and a viscosity of 7 mPa · sec at 25 degrees Celsius. (77 ° F). Immediately thereafter, the gel-like permanent waving agent mentioned above is applied to the hair roots with a brush, the agent having a pH = 8.6 and a viscosity of 2,900 mPa | sec at 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F). Then an action period of 10 minutes takes place at room temperature. Then the hair is rinsed with water. Next, 60 g (2.12 oz) of the fixing agent of Example 1 is applied to the curlers. After an action period of 10 minutes, the fixing agent is rinsed with water, and the hair is unrolled. The hair exhibits a uniform wavy from the roots to the ends of the hair, an excellent maintenance, and very good combing. Unless indicated otherwise, all percentages presented in the present application represent hundreds by weight.

All viscosity values are based on the measurement with a Haake rotary viscometer model VT 550, with a cutting speed of 10.0 per second. A double-space cylinder measuring system model NV or MV was used.

Claims (10)

1 . An agent for carrying out the reducing step in a permanent modeling of the hair, based on at least one hair keratin-reducing compound, characterized in that the agent includes a cationic cellulose derivative formed of a cellulose ether with 1, 000 to 10,000 repeating units of anhydroglucose, which (a) is substituted with 0.0001 to 0.1 moles per unit of anhydroglucose of a substitute of the Formula (I) R1R2R3R4N + (Az) wherein R1 and R2 independently of one another represent -CH3 or -C2H5, R3 represents -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2- or -CH2CH2-, R4 represents a straight or branched chain alkyl residue with 6 to 24 carbon atoms. , Az "is an anion, selected from among chloride, sulfate, nitrate or phosphate, and z means 1, 2 or 3, and (b) is substituted with 0.01 to 0.9 moles per anhydroglucose unit of a substituent of the Formula (II) R5R6R7R8N + (Az) 1 / z wherein R5, R6 and R7 independently of one another represent -CH3 or -C2H5, R8 represents -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2- or -CH2CH2-, A2"is an anion, selected from among chloride, sulfate, nitrate or phosphate, and z means 1, 2 or 3. The agent according to claim 1, further characterized in that in Formula (I), R1 and R2 represent -CH3 and R3 represents -CH2- CH (OH) -CH2- 3. The agent according to any of claims 1 or 2, further characterized in that in Formula (I), R4 represents a straight-chain alkyl residue or branched with 10 to 16 carbon atoms 4. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further characterized in that in Formula (II), R5, R6 and R7 represent -CH3 5. The agent in accordance with Any of claims 1 to 4, further characterized in that in Formula (II), R8 represents -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2- 6. The agent according to any of claims 1 to 5, further characterized in that the agent includes a cationic cellulose derivative of the general formula (III), wherein X represents a number from 0.05 to 0.8, Y is a number from 0.05 to 0.8, U represents a number from 0.0005 to 0.05, V represents a number from 0.0005 to 0.05, R is a straight or branched chain alkyl residue with 6. to 18 carbon atoms and n represents an integer of 1, 000 to 8,000. 7. The agent according to claim 6, further characterized in that in Formula (III) R = C12 H25. The agent according to claim 1, further characterized in that the agent includes a cationic cellulose derivative of the general formula (IV), where, X means an integer from 1 to 10, Y is an integer from 0 to 10, Z means an integer from 1 to 10, R is a straight or branched chain alkyl group with 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and n means an integer from 10 to 5,000. The agent according to claim 8, further characterized in that in Formula (IV), X means an integer from 1 to 4, Y means an integer from 1 to 4, Z means an integer from 1 to 4. , R is a straight chain alkyl group with 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and n means an integer from 50 to 1000. 10. The agent according to claim 8 or 9, further characterized in that in Formula (IV) R = C12 H25. eleven . The agent according to any of claims 1 to 10, further characterized in that a 1% aqueous solution of the cationic cellulose derivative exhibits a viscosity of 1, 500 to 3,000 mPa | sec at 25 degrees Celsius (77 ° F), measured with a Haake Model VT 550 rotary viscometer at a cutting speed of 10.0 per second. 1

2. The agent according to any of claims 1 to 11, further characterized in that the cationic cellulose derivative is included in an amount of 0.1 to 5 weight percent. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further characterized in that the agent further contains at least one cationic polymer selected from poly (dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate) (up to 75% quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or 100% with sodium chloride). methyl or methyl bromide), poly (diallyldimethylammonium chloride), chloride copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium / hydroxyethylcellulose, beta methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate homopolymer, beta methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methacrylate / acrylamide copolymers, betamethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium / methacrylamide chloride copolymers, acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymers beta-methosulphate copolymers methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer of methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone, d-diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone / d-methacrylamidopropyldimethylammonium chloride, cationic chitosan derivatives, cationic cellulose derivatives other than the cationic cellulose derivatives of claim 1 derivatives of cationic guar. The agent according to any of claims 1 to 13, further characterized in that the total amount of cationic polymer is 0.2 to percent by weight. 15. The agent according to any of claims 1 to 14, further characterized in that the hair keratin-reducing compound is selected from mercaptoacetic acid, cysteine, or thiolactic acid, or its salts. 16. The agent according to any of claims 1 to 15, further characterized in that the hair keratin-reducing compound in the corrugated modeling agent is included in an amount of 2 to 15 weight percent. 17. The agent according to any of claims 1 to 16, further characterized in that the wavy shaping agent contains the disulfide of a hair keratin-reducing compound. 18. The agent according to claim 17, characterized by also because the disulfide of the hair keratin-reducing compound is dithioglycollate. 19. The agent according to any of claims 17 or 18, further characterized in that the disulfide of the keratin hair reducing compound is included in an amount of 2 to 20 weight percent. 20. The agent according to any of claims 17 to 19, further characterized in that the ratio of the hair keratin-reducing compound to the disulfide of the hair keratin-reducing compound is from 2: 1 to 1: 1. twenty-one . A method for permanent modeling of the hair in which the hair is treated with a hair keratin-reducing modeling agent before and / or after the hair has been fixed in a desired shape, and after a sufficient period of action for permanent modeling, the hair is rinsed with water if necessary, then the hair is given an oxidative after-treatment, and again it is rinsed with water, styled and finally dried, further characterized by an agent as indicated in any of claims 1 up 20 is used as the hair keratin reducing modeling agent.