LU100762B1 - Clay activator - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for nail polish comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent and at least one plasticizer, said composition being structured by at least one exfoliated phyllosilicate derived from at least one phyllosilicate intercalated by an intercalating agent, characterized in that the agent intercalant is chosen from C3-C10 carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, preferably selected from dicarboxylic acids, for example succinic acid or dimethylglutaric acid, or from hydroxylated carboxylic acids, for example lactic acid or gallic acid, in a cosmetic composition for nail polish.

Description

ACTIVATOR OF ARGILES

Technical Field [0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for nail polish.

STATE OF THE ART [0002] Clays have numerous properties of interest for cosmetic applications such as swelling (colloidal suspensions and thixotropic effect), exchange (complexing capacity) or their absorbing properties.

Clays are minerals of laminated structure (phyllosilicates) explaining their plasticity, or fibrous (sepiolite and palygorskite) explaining their quality of absorption.

The structure of phyllosilicates clays is characterized by the superposition of layers composed of tetrahedral or octahedral layers. The latter are classified into three major families according to the thickness of the sheets (0.7, 1 or 1.4 nm), which correspond to a number of layers of tetrahedral (Si) and octahedral oxides (Al, Ni, Mg, Fe (II), Fe (III), Mn, Na, K, etc.).

The interstice, or interfoliar space (space between sheets), may contain water as well as cations such as K +, Na +, Ca ++. This results in variations in the distance between sheets, and therefore macroscopic dimensional variations of the clay when it is hydrated (dilation) or dries (contraction).

For phyllosilicates can play their structuring role in a composition for nail polish, it is necessary to interpose or even exfoliate the sheets.

In cosmetics, a mechanism of choice is intercalation by acid interaction, more particularly by the use of ortho-phosphoric acid. Indeed, it is traditionally accepted that the stronger the acid, the more effective the exfoliation. The disadvantage of the use of ortho-phosphoric acid is that this acid will harm the polyester resins including a number of plasticizers comprising an ester function, and possibly even nitrocellulose, present in the composition. Indeed, the strong acids can lead to the complete hydrolysis of the ester function leading to the total destruction of the polymer and / or the plasticizer.

Accordingly, there is a need to develop nail polish that can at least partially remedy the disadvantage mentioned above.

OBJECT OF THE INVENTION [0009] An object of the present invention is therefore to propose an alternative to the use of phosphoric acid while not compromising the expected and necessary properties of the cosmetic composition.

General description of the invention [0010] In order to solve the problem mentioned above, the present invention proposes, in a first aspect, a cosmetic composition for nail polish comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent and at least one plasticizer. , said composition being structured by at least one exfoliated phyllosilicate derived from at least one phyllosilicate intercalated with an intercalating agent, characterized in that the intercalating agent is chosen from C3-C10 carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, preferably selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, for example succinic acid or dimethylglutaric acid, or from hydroxylated carboxylic acids, for example lactic acid or gallic acid.

In a second aspect, the invention relates to a nail polish comprising a cosmetic composition for nail polish according to the present invention.

In a third aspect, the invention also provides the use of the intercalating agent defined above for exfoliating the sheets of phyllosilicates.

Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that the substitution (partial or total) of ortho-phosphoric acid, traditionally used as intercalating agent for exfoliating phyllosilicates, by an acid such as carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids in C3- C10, preferably selected from dicarboxylic acids, for example succinic acid or dimethylglutaric acid, or from hydroxylated carboxylic acids, for example lactic acid or gallic acid, allowed exfoliation while preserving the polyester resins and certain plasticizers comprising an ester function, or even nitrocellulose, optionally included in the cosmetic composition.

A composition is not just an addition of easily replaceable ingredients by others and it is likely that the addition or substitution of one component negatively affects other properties of the formulation.

Therefore, the advantage of the present invention is to provide other ingredients compatible with the ingredients normally present in a composition and having a similar effectiveness. The additional advantage being a lesser degree of nuisance of the resins and / or plasticizers and / or nitrocellulose present in the composition. In addition, the composition remains stable over time and shows neither syneresis nor sedimentation.

The term "interposed phyllosilicates" means that phyllosilicates have been treated with organic or inorganic compounds in order to introduce molecules of these compounds into the interplanar spaces of said phyllosilicates, on the one hand to increase the distance between them. leaflets and, on the other hand, bring them an organophilic character.

In the expression "exfoliated phyllosilicate derived from at least one interspersed phyllosilicate", the term "derivative" is used to describe the fact that phyllosilicates in the form of sheets are obtained from phyllosilicates intercalated by application. to these of a shearing force sufficient to allow at least partly, and in particular their entire exfoliation.

The phyllosilicates that can be used according to the invention are derived more particularly from phyllosilicates of the smectite type, such as montmorillonites, in particular montmorillonites of sodium, potassium and / or calcium, nontronites, beidellites, volkonskoyes, hectorites, saponites, sauconites, and sobockites. , stevensites, svinfordites, vermiculites and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention has a content of exfoliated phyllosilicates ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 5% by total weight of the composition for nail polish.

The exfoliated phyllosilicates according to the invention advantageously have, adsorbed on the surface of their layers, at least one "intercalating agent", which agent is interposed between the sheets of the phyllosilicate said "interposed" used to prepare the composition according to the invention. 'invention. The amount of the intercalating agent is generally between 0.01% and 1% by weight and preferably between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of dry phyllosilicate (comprising less than 5% by weight). water).

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one plasticizer in order to modulate the hardness of the film formed in order to obtain the desired physico-chemical characteristics of the film and generally represent from 3% to 12% by dry weight, of preferably 4% to 8% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The plasticizer is preferably chosen from acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, dibutyl phthalate, triphenyl phosphate, triacetin, trimethyl pentanyl diisobutyrate, triethyl hexanoine, sucrose benzoate and dibutyl. adipate, diethyl phthalate, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, N-ethyl toluene sulfonamide, its ortho and para isomers, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) benzene sulfonamide and N- (n-butyl) ) benzene sulfonamide, etc.

The cosmetic composition for nail polish comprises an organic solvent. This organic solvent may be chosen from the group consisting of toluene, xylene, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, such as n-butyl acetate, sec-butyl acetate and acetate. of tert-butyl or isobutyl acetate, propyl acetate, methyl acetate, a ketone, an ester, isopropanol, butanol, diacetone alcohol, denatured ethanol (with methyl ethyl ketone or diethyl ether), linear or cyclic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, hexane, cyclohexane, heptane and any combination thereof.

The organic solvent may be selected according to its physico-chemical properties and in consideration of the other components present in the cosmetic composition for nail polish. Preferably, the amount of organic solvent present in the cosmetic composition for nail polish is between 50% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] Advantageously, the organic solvent is butyl acetate and / or ethyl acetate.

The invention may also comprise one or more film-forming agents. The film-forming agent (s) that may be included in the cosmetic composition for nail polish may be chosen from the group consisting of cellulose, a cellulose derivative, a vinyl resin, a acrylic resin and any combination thereof. The cellulose derivatives are, for example, nitrocellulose, acetate butyrate cellulose, ethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose. Preferably, nitrocellulose will be chosen as the film-forming agent.

A film-forming agent alone or a combination of film-forming agents may be used in the cosmetic composition for nail polish in proportions ranging from 8% to 20% by dry weight and preferably from 12% to 16% by weight. % by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

If necessary or desired, the cosmetic composition for nail polish may also comprise a film-forming agent of biopolyester type such as polylactic acid and / or triethylphosphate. The percentage of this film-forming agent in the formula can range from 0.05% to 15% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

To color or provide particular effects to the cosmetic composition for nail polish, it may comprise one or more coloring agents, preferably chosen from pigments, nacres, glitters (glitter) and / or metal particles. . These coloring agents provide the aesthetic appearance sought by nail polish users. These coloring agents can produce very different effects such as "iridescent", "metallic", "pearlescent", "mirror", "cream", "glittery", crackle "," matte "," neon "," fluorescent " , "Holographic", etc.

In particular, the pigments may be selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), red iron oxide (Cl 77491), DC Red 6 Ba Lake (Cl 15850), DC Red 7 Ca Lake (Cl 15850: 1), DC Red 34 Ca Lake (Cl 15880), FDC Yellow 5 Al Lake (Cl 19140), FDC Blue 1 Al Lake (Cl 42090), ultramarine blue (Cl 77007), Violet DC 2 (Cl 60725), DC Black 2 (Cl 77266), etc.

The nacres are mineral particles of different types covered with one or more layers of oxides (titanium oxides or iron oxides) or pigments. The nacres can be in the form of a powder or plates of various sizes. Among the nacres that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: nacres prepared from natural mica and having undergone successive coating operations, nacres prepared from synthetic mica also called synthetic fluorphlogopite, nacres prepared from sodium borosilicate calcium, • nacres prepared from silica oxide.

The glitters (flakes) used in the invention can be prepared from several types of materials such as polyester films having on the surface a metal layer, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, copolymers of acrylates, copolymers acrylates or aluminum.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition for nail polish comprises an amount of coloring agent of from 0.1% to 20% by dry weight and preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight. % by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition for nail polish according to the invention may also contain conventional resins. The conventional resins that can be used are the following: • Polyester resins • Epoxytosylamide resins • Acrylate and styrene-acrylate resin • Sucrose perbenzoate [0034] Additional resins can also be added to the composition. In particular, these additional resins make it possible to increase the tackiness and the adhesion of the film to the nail.

The additional resins that may be used are the following: • tosylamide / formaldehyde resins or toluenesulfonamide / formahde, hyde resins, • tosylamide / epoxy resins or toluenesulfonamide / epoxy resins, • adipic acid copolymer resin, d fumaric acid, neopentyl glycol and cyclohexanedimethanol • Copolymers adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimellitic anhydride • Copolymers of phthalic anhydride / glycerin / glycidyl decanoate • Copolymers of phthalic anhydride / trimellitic anhydride / glycols • Copolymers of glycerin / acid phthalic, • Styrene / acrylate / acrylonitrile copolymers, • Polymers and copolymers of acrylates, • Copolymers of acrylates and styrene, • Sucrose acetate isobutyrate, • Polyvinylbutyral resin.

In addition to their sticky action, most of these resins also have a plasticizing action. The resins can be used in the formula, alone or in the form of mixtures, in amounts ranging from 1% to 25% by dry weight, preferably 5% to 15% by dry weight, in particular from 7% to 12% by weight. in dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition for nail polish may further comprise various additives selected from rheology additives, UV absorbers, surface modifiers and so-called "treating agents".

The various additives that can be used in the invention are: Among the rheology additives, mention may be made in particular of modified clay derivatives such as stearalkonium hectorite or stearalkonium bentonite or of pyrogenic silica type. These rheology additives will preferably be used from 0.1 to 4% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These additives allow in particular the suspension of insoluble particles in the varnish such as pigments or nacres.

Among the UV absorbers, mention will be made of UV light absorbers which protect the formulation or the coloring agents used in the invention of UV radiation. Among the UV protectors that can be used in the invention, mention will be made of benzophenone-1 (CAS 131-56-6), benzophenone-3 (CAS 131-57-7) and benzyl salicylate (CAS 118-58-1). , etocrylene (CAS 5232-99-5), drometzole (CAS 2440-22-4), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS 70356-09-1), etc.

UV absorbers will be used alone or in the form of combination whose total percentage in the formula can range from 0.1% to 1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the additives that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of surface modifiers such as cyclomethicones or cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicones and trimethylsiloxysilicate.

These surface additives are generally used in small amounts in the formulation ranging from 0.1 to 5% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Also include the so-called "treating" additives of the nail used in the composition according to the invention. The treating additives may represent from 0.01% to 5% by dry weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These "treating" additives include: • formaldehyde used as a hardener for the nail, • vitamin E acetate (tocopheryl acetate), • vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), • organic or inorganic calcium derivatives such as calcium chloride, calcium pantothenate, • dimethyloxobenzodioxasilane, • myrrh, • sulfur-containing amino acids such as cysteine, its salts and derivatives, cystine, glutathione. The sulfur-containing amino acids are indeed capable of creating crosslinking bridges between keratin and the free SH groups of these sulfur-containing derivatives, • hydrolysed keratin of plant origin, • alpha-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, and acid. ascorbic acid, • biotin, • urea and dimethylurea.

Another object of the invention relates to a nail polish comprising a cosmetic composition as described above.

A further aspect of the invention relates to the use of an intercalating agent selected from C3-C10 carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, preferably selected from dicarboxylic acids, for example succinic acid or acid. dimethylglutaric acid, or from hydroxylated carboxylic acids, for example lactic acid or gallic acid in a cosmetic nail polish composition for exfoliating interposed phyllosilicate sheets.

EXAMPLE The example below relates to a cosmetic composition formulation for nail polishes according to the invention.

In conclusion, the inventors have demonstrated that the composition comprising an intercalating agent chosen from C3-C10 carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, preferably selected from dicarboxylic acids, in particular succinic acid or dimethylglutaric acid or from the hydroxylated carboxylic acids, in particular lactic acid or gallic acid, remains stable over time, ie after 3 months, whether at 50 ° C. or at room temperature, and does not show syneresis or sedimentation.

Claims (16)

1. Cosmetic composition for nail polish comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent and at least one plasticizer, said composition being structured by at least one exfoliated phyllosilicate derived from at least one phyllosilicate intercalated with an intercalating agent, characterized in that intercalating agent is chosen from C3-C10 carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, preferably selected from dicarboxylic acids, in particular succinic acid or dimethylglutaric acid, or from hydroxylated carboxylic acids, in particular lactic acid or lactic acid. 'gallic acid. 2. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to claim 1, characterized in that it has a content of exfoliated phyllosilicates of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 5% by total weight of the composition for nail polish. 3. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the exfoliated phyllosilicates are derived from the intercalation of mineral clays smectite type. 4. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the smectites are selected from montmorillonites, nontronites, beidellites, volkonskoites, hectorites, saponites, sauconites, sobockites, stevensites, svinfordites, vermiculites and their mixtures. 5. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the exfoliated phyllosilicates comprise between 0.01% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight. of intercalating agent relative to the weight of dry phyllosilicate comprising less than 5% water. 6. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plasticizer is selected from acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, dibutyl phthalate, triphenyl phosphate, triacetin, trimethyl pentanyl diisobutyrate, triethyl hexanoine, sucrose benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diethyl phthalate, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate or combinations thereof. 7. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of plasticizer is between 3% and 12% by weight, preferably between 4% and 8% by total weight of the composition for nail polish. 8. A cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organic solvent or solvents are chosen from toluene, xylene, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, propyl, methyl acetate, a ketone, an ester, isopropanol, butanol, diacetone alcohol, ethanol denatured with methyl ethyl ketone or diethyl ether, linear or cyclic hydrocarbons, preferably cyclohexane, heptane or any combination thereof, preferably the organic solvent (s) is ethyl acetate, butyl acetate or a combination thereof. 9. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of organic solvent is between 50% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the nail polish composition. The cosmetic nail polish composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a film forming agent which is selected from cellulose, a cellulose derivative, a vinyl resin, or any combination thereof, preferably the film-forming agent is nitrocellulose. 11. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of film-forming agent is between 8% and 20% by weight, preferably between 12% and 16% by total weight of the composition for nail polish. 12. The cosmetic composition for nail polish according to claim 1, further comprising at least one coloring agent, which is preferably chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, glitters and / or metal particles. 13. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of the coloring agent (s) is (are) from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by total weight of the nail polish composition. 14. Cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more additives selected from resins, UV absorbers, surface modifiers and so-called "treating agents". 15. Nail polish comprising a cosmetic composition for nail polish according to any one of claims 1 to 14. 16. Use of an intercalating agent chosen from C3-C10 carboxylic and dicarboxylic acids, preferably selected from dicarboxylic acids, in particular succinic acid or dimethylglutaric acid, or from hydroxylated carboxylic acids, in particular lactic acid or gallic acid, in a cosmetic composition for nail polish to exfoliate the sheets of phyllosilicates.